How to dismantle a wooden floor: work order. Dismantling a wooden floor: technology for dismantling old wooden floors in an apartment How to properly open wooden floors

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

A wooden plank floor is a reliable covering, well suited for an apartment. It serves for a long time, but there are some nuances: the tree is hygroscopic and moisture acts on it. In summer, at high temperature and humidity, the boards swell, and in winter they dry out. In this case, gaps appear between the floorboards. Over time, old wood can start to rot and lose its properties. Under the weight of the furniture, scratches and dents appear on the surface, and the paint lags behind. Finally, there comes a time when wood flooring needs to be repaired.

Depending on the service life of the wooden floor, certain restoration methods are required:

coverage renewal;
when cracks appear, bending of boards and creaking;
overhaul when the floor decays, when it is no longer possible to use it;
complete replacement of the flooring using modern finishing methods.

Checking the quality of the floor

When repairing a wooden floor with your own hands, you should correctly assess the condition in which it is. To check your floor, you should remove the topcoats from it (linoleum, laminate, etc.) and get to the boards.

The quality of the wood is determined by tapping on it with a mallet. A dull sound means that the board is rotten.
Suspicious surfaces are checked with an awl. If it fits 10 mm freely, the board should be replaced.
Rust on nails indicates increased indoor humidity.

Costs and scope of work depend on how damaged the wooden surface is.

Wooden floorboards are laid on, which rest on a reinforced concrete base. To repair a wooden floor with a complete replacement, it is advisable to make a "floating" floor, which is a concrete screed, lying on a layer of heat and sound insulation material and in contact only with it. The price of such a base is high, but worth it.

Looping

Scraping of floors in an apartment is used when there are stains, dents, scratches, a thick layer of paint on the surfaces. The manual method of scraping a wooden floor in an apartment with your own hands is too laborious. Currently used grinding machines, working on the principle of friction of the emery cloth on the plane.

Before scraping, all nails should be sunk 3–5 mm so as not to damage the abrasive material.

First of all, with a spatula, old paint is removed with a heated building hairdryer.
The next stage is sanding: with a machine, they first pass along the floorboards, and then across.
Before coating the wooden coating with varnish, it is sanded with fine sandpaper. After that, all the irregularities are sealed with wood putty and another pass is made.

Partial replacement of floorboards

The wood flooring can be repaired by replacing individual planks in damaged areas. This is done as follows:

The location of the log is located on the hammered nails. A fragment of a decayed floorboard is cut out above its middle.
A new board is laid with adjusting the dimensions and treatment with an antiseptic on all surfaces, except for the ends.

The self-tapping screws holding the boards together are easy to remove. It is enough to turn them out with a screwdriver. The nails are first pulled slightly with pliers, and then pulled out with a nailer.

All parts of the wood flooring with rotten floorboards are changed in the same way.

An important rule should be observed: the board must lie on at least three logs.

The most difficult thing is to replace a tongue-and-groove board without breaking the lock. Certain skills are needed here.

Sealing cracks

Gaps form between the boards over time. This happens for the following reasons:

deformation from changes in moisture;
wrong styling technology;
drying of the boards.

The appearance of gaps makes the floor look unattractive. In addition, air enters through them, cooling the room.

In most cases, loose joints are sealed with wood putty. It can be purchased at the store. In dry rooms, glue putty is used, and in wet rooms - oil. You can add stain or color to it. Before application, the floor is cleaned of varnish or paint with a wire brush. After filling the gap, the surface is leveled with a rubber trowel.
When there are many slots, and their width is large, the boards are re-laid. Another option is to cover the floor with plywood, fiberboard, chipboard or OSV. It is covered with sheets only in dry rooms, since ventilation deteriorates and the wood begins to rot.
Wide slots must be hammered all the way in with wedge-shaped wooden glazing beads using PVA glue. The protrusions are leveled with a grinder or plane. The finished coating is covered with several layers of varnish or paint.

Eliminate squeak

The arrangement of a wooden floor over time leads to drying out and a change in the shape of the boards. As a result, the floorboards begin to squeak. The reasons for the squeaky floor:

gaps are formed between the boards and lags;
the ends of the floorboards rest against the walls;
fasteners are loose;
friction between the side surfaces of the boards.

A creaky floor usually requires a major overhaul. This is not always possible. Often the owners make cosmetic repairs to the wooden floor in the apartment so as not to open it. This can be considered a temporary measure, since a lasting effect cannot be expected here.

If your home has a subfloor, the creaky floor can be repaired by inserting wedges from below between the floorboards and joists. In the apartment, there is no access to the floor from below, so the following methods are used.

The floorboards are fixed with self-tapping screws installed oppositely at an angle of 45–600 to the surface of the board, which should be pulled to the joists.
Talc or graphite powder is poured between the floorboards.
The space under the boards is blown out with foam.
The floor is covered with 12 mm plywood sheets.
On creaking floorboards, nails are replaced with self-tapping screws. Such an event often eliminates squeak problems.

Overhaul

Overhaul is done with the replacement of floorboards. In this case, the old wooden floor is completely disposed of. This requires opening and dismantling all boards. The logs are also checked and leveled, and the rotten ones are replaced. It is advisable to replace them completely.

The concrete floor is cleared of debris, defects should be repaired. Houses with wooden beams also need to be repaired.
Insulation must be installed on the ground floor, and sound insulation is needed everywhere.

The board must be taken grooved and well dried, otherwise, after a year, cracks will appear in the floor.

All accessible places should be treated with an antiseptic. It is not recommended to use old boards, since the fungus can pass from them to new ones.
The heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk into the wood, after which they are putty, and the surface of the floor in these places is sanded.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: What to choose for the floor in the apartment: linoleum, carpet, cork or laminate?

Overhaul is more difficult than cosmetic. You can get acquainted with the process in detail by watching the video at the end of the article.

from 50 r / m 2

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When the old flooring has fallen into disrepair, the first step to installing a new parquet, parquet board, tile or linoleum is to dismantle the old floor. It is not recommended to lay a new floor covering on top of the old one, since the base for it must be of high quality, otherwise repairs will be necessary again very soon. High-quality floor dismantling can be entrusted to the professionals of the Parquet Service company. We dismantle any floor covering: in an apartment, country house, office or industrial premises. The cost of floor dismantling is at the lowest level for Moscow! To dismantle the floors, we have the necessary tools, we protect the premises from the resulting dust, we provide collection and removal of garbage, etc.

- What is included in the work
- Parsing the floor
- Taking out the trash
- Terms of work
- Check by phone
- Discounts
- -10% for orders over 50 m 2

Dismantling wood floor and laminate

As practice shows, it is better to dismantle wooden floors with a partner and using a nail puller. Fastening of floorboards to logs is carried out most often with nails. First, the skirting boards located around the perimeter of the room are dismantled. After that, the dismantling of the wooden floor on the logs continues by removing the boards, and it is best to start this process from the front door. Dismantling of parquet and laminate floors is carried out by disassembling them into their constituent elements. Moreover, if the parquet is dismantled with a glue joint, then it will have to be broken, and if the joint is lock, then the boards after careful disassembly can in most cases be reused, since they are quite valuable material. When the wood floor is dismantled, garbage is generated in considerable quantities, and therefore, before starting work, it makes sense to prepare bags for its collection and removal.

Removing the tile floor

To dismantle a tile floor, you must use an electric tool such as a hammer drill. This device will be of great help, since the fixing of the tiles to the base is carried out either on strong glue or on a cement-sand mortar and is highly durable. When tiles are dismantled from the floor, debris is also generated in considerable quantities, and therefore, care must be taken in advance that the apartment (walls, furniture, etc.) is reliably protected from dust. Dismantling tiles with a punch can be quite simple if you use a nozzle specially designed for this purpose. In principle, the dismantling of this type of floor can be done manually, with an ordinary hammer and chisel, but this will require much more time and effort.

Dismantling cement and concrete screed

When a major renovation is made, a serious company taking on this business removes not only the surface (that is, the floor covering itself), but also the base located under it. Dismantling of the cement floor screed is necessary in cases where it is thoroughly destroyed under the influence of moisture or excessive loads, or when a fungus has "settled" in it. To carry out this process, you definitely need a tool such as a powerful puncher. It should be especially noted that the dismantling of concrete floors must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally damage the floors. That is why it is best to trust such dismantling work only to professionals who are perfectly familiar with all the subtleties and nuances that this process has. They dismantle the screed quickly and efficiently.

Dismantling of linoleum and carpet

Dismantling work to remove linoleum and carpet is perhaps the most simple. Before doing them, you should prepare tools such as a nailer, pliers and wire cutters. Dismantling a floor covered with carpet or linoleum begins with removing the plinth around the entire perimeter of the room. The coating itself is gradually torn off from the base, starting from the corner, and rolled up into a roll.

Floor dismantling cost

Our prices for dismantling the old floor are shown in the table below

Removing garbage from an apartment into a container 50
Dismantling of concrete floor, cement screed by diamond cutting 180
Dismantling the concrete floor, cement screed with a jackhammer 250
Dismantling of a wooden floor from boards, logs, timber 200
Dismantling the wooden floor on the joists 200
Removing tile skirting boards 50
Removing wood-plastic skirting boards 50
Dismantling tiles 100
Dismantling the old laminate 100
Dismantling the old parquet 150
Stripping bitumen mastic 50
Dismantling the reinforced floor of sanitary cabins 250
Dismantling of waterproofing 50
Dismantling a parquet board 100
Knocking tar or glue off the screed 50
Removing linoleum or carpet 100
Removing plywood or hardboard 150

Ordering floor dismantling services

"Parquet Service" provides services for the dismantling of any floor coverings. In order to place an order, you just need to call us by phone or fill out the application form below.

A wooden floor, like any natural covering, deteriorates over time. It becomes necessary to remove it and replace it with a new one. How to properly dismantle the old flooring? How rip open wood floors without the help of masters? These and other questions are of concern to those who want to make repairs in the house with their own hands.

Why rip the floors

Wooden parts of the base of the floor, the plank covering of the rough and face layers, during long-term operation, rot, dry out, and turn into dust. The main enemies of natural products are high humidity, insects and small rodents.

Due to the high presence of moisture, the tree grows moldy, becomes covered with a fungus. In the process of destruction, an unfavorable microclimate is created in the room. People can get an allergic reaction. Breathing mold is harmful. It is especially important to protect children from such a danger.

Moldy boards do not look aesthetically pleasing. Bluish stains violate the beauty of the natural wood pattern. It is difficult to hide them. No construction cosmetics helps.

Pests exude wood, turning it into dust. Mice gnaw holes in it. This makes it unsafe to walk on the floor. Cold air enters the damaged boards. Feet on such a floor get cold. In winter, maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature is problematic.

In addition to the main reasons for replacing a wooden floor, there are others:

strong deterioration of the coating as a result of intensive use;
errors during the construction phase of the building, improper construction of the base, rough and final flooring, violations in the ventilation system;
for the installation of the floor, a low-grade material was initially used, which was deformed during the installation process.

These reasons are the basis for replacing old wooden parts with new ones.

Methods for dismantling the old wooden coating

Before, how to open wood floors, the coating should be examined and methods of dismantling it should be studied. The choice of technique depends on the state of the main floor elements, the conditions for waste disposal, the planned material costs for the repair.

If, as a result of the survey, many well-preserved elements are found, they can be used in the construction of a new pavement. The main condition is to preserve their integrity during the dismantling process. For this, it is important to carry out the work carefully, trying not to damage the boards.
Material completely unsuitable for reuse is removed completely and disposed of. Accuracy is needed here so as not to hurt yourself on chips, not to splinter your hands.

Attention! When dismantling old wooden elements, they work with thick gloves as a convenient tool.

Dismantling the boards with their subsequent use allows you to save money when purchasing construction and finishing products. The calculation for the acquisition of new floor elements is carried out after its opening.

How to open a wooden floor

Dismantling of a wooden covering is carried out in several stages.

Preparatory work

If the removal of old boards is carried out in an apartment of a multi-storey building, it is accompanied by certain inconveniences for neighbors. High noise level, a lot of dust, small and large debris.

To avoid troubles for oneself and others, work is carried out at the time specified by the Legislation when the noise level can be exceeded. This is a period from Monday to Friday from 7.00 to 22.00. On weekends, it is better to give up noisy activity or start it no earlier than 8.00. In order to avoid conflicts, neighbors should be warned about their decision to carry out construction work.

A respirator is used to protect the respiratory tract from dust. To protect your eyes, wear special plastic glasses. Dirty work should be done in work gloves and overalls.

The room where the floor will be dismantled is freed from furniture and decorative elements. The doorway is closed with a damp cloth or plastic wrap. This will prevent the spread of dust around the apartment.

At the preparatory stage, it is important to prepare garbage bags, think over where to take out large fragments. To dismantle old boards, you will need a simple set of tools:

a nail driver or screwdriver, if the boards are screwed on with self-tapping screws;
compact metal scrap;
hammer;
hatchet;
ticks;
hacksaw (jigsaw).

If a concrete slab serves as the base for the floor, a cement-sand mixture should be prepared to seal up chips and cracks.

Well-preserved, reusable elements need to be cleaned of paint, varnish with a metal brush or grinder. It is recommended that they be numbered before dismantling in order to maintain the same order.

Main works

Removing the skirting board. The edging of the floor begins to be removed from the doorway. Wooden skirting boards are usually fastened with nails. Locations of the fastener head are found on the bar. Here, a crowbar is carefully slipped in and the product is slightly raised. This is done along the entire length of the skirting board. Hammer it down slightly with a hammer to expose the head of the nail. Then the fasteners are removed with a nailer. The removed strips are disposed of or used for other repair work. Long pieces can be cut to make it easier to take out and store.
If there are ventilation openings closed with a special metal grill, the cover is removed. It can be reused.
Parsing the floor begins with the first board from the wall, adjacent to the wall opposite the doors. Boards screwed on with self-tapping screws are freed with a screwdriver. This happens quickly, without much difficulty. However, most of the old decking was nailed to timber joists. Removing them is more difficult and longer, as they do it by hand. The time to remove nails is increased if the removed boards are supposed to be used in the future. They must be kept intact.

In order to carefully open the wooden floor, the first board is raised by 1-1.5 cm with a nail pusher or crowbar, pushing it into the gap between the wall and the floor. Start from the middle, gradually moving to the edges. The raised piece is again driven into the lags to expose the nail heads. Using a nail pry tool, remove the fasteners, pull the board out of the thorn-groove connection, trying not to damage the horizontal connection. Do the same with other parts.

If the boards are not recyclable, they can be split, cut or removed using more aggressive methods. Chips and large fragments are placed in bags and taken out of the room.

After removing all parts, they are inspected. Good products are left, damaged are cut and disposed of. Recycled boards are cleaned and treated with special protective agents to prolong their life. Be sure to investigate the state of the lag. If they are unsuitable for further use, they are replaced with new products of similar dimensions.

Opening wooden floors is easy. Dismantling old boards can be done alone without additional labor. This will significantly save the budget of the entire renovation.

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One of the most important conditions for the successful implementation of repair work, in particular the replacement of flooring, is the preparation of surfaces. Whatever the finish coat, you need to understand that it must be laid on the most even and durable surface. Installation of a new coating over the old one is unacceptable, as this will reduce its strength, aesthetic and other operational characteristics, which means that you need to know how to remove the old floor, and not only know, but also do it correctly.

For a professional person in this matter, dismantling any old flooring is unlikely to cause difficulties, but those who first encounter the need to carry out work of this type should familiarize themselves with some rules.

Work rules

Dismantling the old flooring will vary somewhat depending on the type of flooring itself. Therefore, for a better understanding of the issue, it is better to divide the description of these works into several separate paragraphs.

First of all, you need to understand that work related to the dismantling of indoor coatings will lead to the formation of dust and dirt, therefore, before starting, you need to prepare personal protective equipment. You will need protective goggles or a mask, gloves, a respirator, and trash and dust bags. In addition, you will not be able to do without auxiliary tools such as a pry bar, a hammer drill, a screwdriver and a hammer. Then furniture must be removed from the room. After the preparation is completed, you can start the work itself.

If roll materials such as linoleum, carpet and the like were used as flooring, then work should be started by removing the baseboards. This structural element must be removed around the entire perimeter of the room. It should be noted that it often happens that the nails with which the plinth is attached rust and their dismantling becomes possible only when the plinth itself is completely destroyed. In this case, the remaining nails must be cut off with a chisel. After removing the plinth, the coating simply comes off the surface, and you need to know that it is best to start from the corner of the room.

In the case when parquet or laminate is used as a floor covering, the floor should be dismantled depending on which type of installation has been chosen. If the coating was installed in a floating way, then first, as in the previous case, the skirting board is removed, and then the coating is disassembled into individual elements. In addition, if there is a lock connection, then these elements can be reused.

If the coating is fixed with an adhesive method, then the situation is somewhat more complicated. In this case, after removing the plinth, it is necessary to beat off each element separately using a perforator. To do this, you need to install a special nozzle on the perforator. If there is no puncher, then you can do the work with a crowbar, prying the element from below and tearing it off.

If a wooden floor was installed in the room on logs, then such a covering is removed quite simply. If the boards were attached to the logs with self-tapping screws, then they just need to be unscrewed, and the boards can be easily removed. If nails were used, then the boards in the place of fastening are pry off with a crowbar and come off. If the boards do not need to be saved, then you can do it easier. With the help of a jigsaw, the boards are sawed across and simply torn off. Lags are also dismantled depending on the method of fastening. If attached with anchor bolts, then unscrew them. Or you can just beat off the lags from the base using a sledgehammer.

When it comes to dismantling a tiled floor, for example, a tiled floor, you should know that the work is dusty and quite labor-intensive. The tiles are removed using a perforator with a nozzle or a hammer and chisel. It is important to note that the main difficulty with this type of work is the removal of glue residues and leveling the base. For these purposes, you can use the same punch.

It may also happen that a plywood leveling base can be placed under the topcoat. Sheets of this material must also be removed, since a new coating laid on top of an old base may begin to creak after a while. If the plywood is screwed on with self-tapping screws, then they just need to be unscrewed, and if the plywood is glued to the screed, then it is removed using a puncher. It should be remembered that it must be placed at an acute angle to the surface.

Dismantling the old flooring is not too difficult from the technological side, and it does not matter whether it is about removing wooden floors or dismantling a tile floor. It only takes some knowledge and diligence. But, it is important to follow the safety rules.

With the exception of a small percentage of secondary buildings with timber joists, slabs are used in multi-storey buildings. On the logs, either a tongue-and-groove floor covering or a rough floor made of edged boards, OSB, GVL, DSP, plywood or chipboard for other claddings (parquet, linoleum, PVC tiles, cork, tiles, carpet and other materials) are laid.

Therefore, the repair of the wooden floor in the Khrushchev can be done in a day (replacing the tongue and groove) or dragging on for several weeks (laying soundproofing, insulation, log and subfloor under parquet).

Classification and repair operations

Due to the complex design and the many layers of the pie, repairing a wooden floor in an apartment is varied, time consuming and budgetary. When the appearance is lost, the surface of the grooved board is cleaned of the existing paintwork layer, painted in several layers to give the necessary aesthetics of perception.

In all other cases, partial or complete disassembly of the coating or subfloor becomes inevitable. To simplify the search for the reasons for the decrease in the operational properties of the structure, layer-by-layer dismantling is usually practiced:

for the restoration of grooved flooring or parquet, you will have to disassemble the entire floor covering so as not to damage the locks of its individual elements; Dismantling the tongue and groove.
pieces of lag are changed through hatches cut in the finishing and black floor; Repair of lags in the apartment.
it is possible to completely replace the lag only after dismantling the entire structure, since the floorboards are located perpendicular to these elements and are fixed to them with nails; Replacing the lag.
in order to replace or re-make hydro- and sound insulation, even the logs will have to be removed, since the layer of these materials must be continuous and located on top of the floor slab.

The reasons for the squeak can be any structural element (floorboard, log or self-tapping screw) when the mutual fixation with another floor part is weakened. Therefore, different methods are used to eliminate the creak - from filling the cracks in the floorboards with talcum powder to replacing the logs or screwing all the boards to the logs at an angle of 45-60 degrees in new places.

The reasons for the squeak are the wear and tear of the elements of the wooden floor.

Advice! During the initial laying of a grooved board as a floor covering, only the first, every fourth and last rows of material are rigidly attached to the logs. After drying, after 3 - 12 months, the floorboards are re-tightened with jacks, clamps or other tools. This operation is not a repair of the floor, it refers to the maintenance of the coating.

Repair technology

When using a multilayer structure, the repair of wooden floors in an apartment becomes necessary with audible and visually obvious defects that sharply reduce the comfort of living. In other words, they walk on the floor covering until the creak gets bored, or the user's leg falls through.

A preventive audit is not economically profitable, since for this it is necessary to take out all the furniture, dismantle the plinth, all or most of the floorboards. Repair is carried out as the structure is disassembled, depending on its complexity, special technologies are used:

wedging, pulling the floorboards; Pulling the boards from the squeak.
additional fastening of boards with self-tapping screws;
replacement of parquet planks, tongue-and-groove boards;
restoration of logs in certain areas;
impregnation of wooden elements with an antiseptic / fire retardant;
changing the floor design with significant wear and tear of lumber;
leveling of surfaces by grinding or scraping. Elimination of squeak by additional fixation.

Important! After the revision of the floorboards, boards unsuitable for further use are rejected. Either defective areas are cut out of them (rot, fungus, mold, warping, flying through knots).

Removing a squeak

In Soviet times, the exploitation of wooden floors in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka was practiced. The logs were laid on the glassine, leveled with wooden wedges. The tongue-and-groove boards were pulled together once - during the decoration of the rooms, users were usually not warned that the floorboards needed to be pulled off again after drying.

The reason for the squeak is the weakening of the mutual fixation of two or more structural elements. Under the load from the traffic of residents, they bend, make characteristic sounds.

To eliminate the squeak, the following algorithm of actions is usually used:

identifying a creaking area by ear, outlining it with chalk;
checking for the presence of a fastener (nail or self-tapping screw);

existing nails can be buried in the wood with a punch;
with a self-tapping screw with a full thread, the floorboard is fixed in any convenient position relative to the log bar;
with a self-tapping screw with an incomplete thread, you can tightly press two wooden floor elements together, including if the hole in the floorboard has expanded over time;
a polymer wedge is driven under the lag hanging above the floor slab;
upon detection of rotten, turned into dust sections of sawn timber, they are cut out, the timber / board is built up with new pieces treated with an antiseptic.

Planks in rows located far from the walls are very difficult to dismantle without destroying the lock connection. Therefore, their spatial geometry and relative position relative to the floorboards in adjacent rows are regulated by longitudinal wedges:

a wedge is cut out of a long chip;
hammered in between the rows of floorboards;
prevents sagging, eliminates creak;
is sanded flush with the surface of the floorboards.

Elimination of squeak with a wedge.

After that, local staining of the defective area is carried out or the floors are re-painted entirely.

Read more about the fight against squeak in the article: How to remove the squeak of a wooden floor.

Replacing a grooved board

In dry rooms, a complete replacement of the floor covering is usually carried out, since the wear of the boards is the same here. In rooms with high humidity and an abundance of cold water supply, sewage, hot water supply, restoration of individual areas affected by mold, fungus or rot due to pipe leaks is often used. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the factors:

the lags and the condition of the screed should be carefully examined;
in case of an unsatisfactory condition of these structural elements, the overhaul of the coating will be cheaper, since the operational resource of the updated section will be much higher than that of existing floorboards, which will also have to be changed soon;
the grooved board is laid according to the standard technology (fastening to the logs of every 4 rows), after 4 - 12 months the flooring must be pulled down again with fixation to the logs of each row of boards;
the skirting board is attached exclusively to the walls to ensure high maintainability of the coating and mobility during linear expansion of the timber (about 0.15% for dry sawn timber).

Important! The height of the groove / ridge location of modern sawn timber may not coincide with similar locks of the operated sheet pile, issued during the Soviet era.

Therefore, the technology of restoration of the floor covering is used according to the following scheme:

the flooring is laid from the wall into the castle;
at the junctions of the new flooring with the old boards, a docking bar is mounted;
on the one hand, a groove of the tongue-and-groove joint is left on the plank, the second is cut along the width of the slot, fastened into the wedge with self-tapping screws or nails without a lock with the existing flooring boards, as in the bottom photo.

Advice! It is forbidden to use spacers between the joists and the floorboards of the finished floor, since it is these details that cause the squeak in the future. Plastic wedges should be placed under the logs, control the upper plane of the bars from which they are made.

Replacing the subfloor

When repairing an old wooden floor, it may be necessary to replace the worn out subfloor. At the step of the lag that satisfies the operational loads, these elements remain in place, only the subfloor decking is dismantled and replaced with a new one.

Depending on the finish floor covering, the following materials can be used:

edged board - under a grooved board;
multilayer plywood - for any coating, including self-leveling floor, tiles, porcelain stoneware; Replacement of the subfloor with plywood.
OSB and chipboard - under PVC tiles, ceramics, laminate, parquet, linoleum, carpet, cork;
DSP - usually used for tiles.

The works are carried out according to standard technologies with the provision of natural ventilation in the underground space.

Lag replacement

If the wooden flooring has no visual defects, but its surface is uneven, there are creaks and other factors that reduce the quality of living, you will have to dismantle the parquet or tongue-and-groove board completely to provide access to the bars on which the flooring is attached.

Before you repair the logs, you should revise the screed, it is possible to replace the insulation, waterproofing and acoustic materials. In Soviet times, expanded clay or sawdust served as insulation; these materials are less effective than expanded polystyrene, ecowool, basalt heat insulator. Therefore, they are collected in bags and disposed of.

Lag replacement is made according to the technology:

horizontal beating with a laser plane-plotter to find the top point;
drawing horizontal lines on walls at an arbitrary height;
laying timber near the walls, taking into account the horizontal level.

The joists can be mounted on polymer wedges or special adjustable bolts (adjustable floor system).

The bar must be securely fixed to the floor slab (screed) with anchors to prevent squeaking and movement during operation.

Therefore, when using wedges, long anchors are used; in systems of an adjustable floor, the stability of the spatial geometry of the structure is ensured by metal studs:

they pass through the block;
attached to the base;
adjustable in height with a nut, positioning the lags at the required level;
the pins are cut off flush with the grinder at the end of the alignment in a single horizontal plane of all logs inside the room.

Replacing the lag with an adjustable floor.

Advice! The logs have a certain thickness, therefore, in wooden floors (rough and finishing), by default, an underground space appears, in which natural ventilation must be provided. To do this, it is necessary to make cuts in the logs, and install gratings diagonally in the corners of the room into the subfloor and floor covering.

Insulation materials

Despite the fact that the wooden floor in the apartment has sound insulation properties and reduces heat loss, additional installation of insulation materials is often required. Their relative position in the wooden floor pie is as follows:

noise-absorbing materials - always laid on a screed or floor slab to cut off structural noise from the lower apartment;
insulation - located on top of the acoustic material, the thickness is selected depending on the specific operating conditions;
vapor barrier - preferably a membrane laid on top of thermal insulation under subfloor boards or a wooden floor covering to protect the insulation from getting wet with moist air vapor from the room;
waterproofing - it is applied with a gluing or coating method on a screed or floor slab; in wet rooms, the second layer of waterproofing is made on top of a wooden floor before laying moisture-resistant linings (protection against sewage and water supply leaks).

Wooden floor cake in the apartment.

Advice! All of these insulation layers are optional. For example, the thickness of the floor slab can be sufficient for the concrete to completely exclude airborne noise. In this case, you can do without soundproofing material.

Paintwork

Painting the floorboards is a cosmetic repair. Before painting, perform the following work:

removal of layers of existing paint with a spatula or special solutions; Dismantling of paintwork materials.
filling gaps with putty (oil for wet rooms, glue for dry rooms, budget option - a mixture of oil paint with sawdust);
grinding and impregnation with linseed oil (drying time is at least 3 days);
elimination of squeak by the above methods.

Wood floor staining options.

After that, the repaired floor is painted in several layers.

Sanding and sanding

While maintaining the bearing capacity of wooden floor elements, it may be necessary to restore its flatness for a number of reasons:

the boards have dried up and warped over time;
gaps have formed between the floorboards;
the tongue is "bent with a hump" in cross-section;
in some areas the boards sagged.

With a sufficient thickness of the sheet piling or parquet, these defects can be corrected without major repairs by grinding or scraping. Equipment for scraping is expensive and rarely required, so it is wiser to rent this equipment for the duration of the repair.

Grinding the tongue with a tape machine.

Sanding does not require high qualifications, the necessary skills are acquired after processing 2 - 3 m² of flooring. A looping machine is more difficult to use, so it is easier to order a service from qualified specialists.

Parquet looping.

Thus, when using a wooden floor in an apartment, repairs are available to the home master on their own. The easiest way is to level the floor plane, get rid of the creak of the floorboards and paint the surface. Overhaul and replacement of logs, floorboards will cost more and take more time.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.

Source: http://MasterskayaPola.ru/derevyannyj/remont-v-kvartire.html

Two simple ways to repair floors in an apartment with your own hands

So, this is not about me! My mother-in-law loves and respects me very much, and even entrusted me with a major overhaul of her apartment. True, at my expense. So, today I want to tell you about how to repair the floor in an apartment with your own hands.

This is how you can save both on materials and on the involvement of specialists. I guarantee that this knowledge will be useful to you more than once in your life.

In old houses, as in my case, the floors are made according to the standard scheme: floor slabs are covered with expanded clay, and on top they are filled with a layer of concrete screed, on which thermal insulation is laid. In many old houses, as a rule, it has fallen into disrepair long ago or is completely absent. After the thermal insulation, there is a wooden floor, on which the floor covering is laid.

If this floor is laid according to all the rules, then it can serve for a very long time. If the floorboards are deformed from old age, and gaps have appeared between them, this is a clear sign that the floors should be changed.

You can't just replace the flooring here. A worn wood floor will quickly ruin your new linoleum or laminate flooring.

To prevent this, you will have to carry out a complete renovation of the old floor using one of the following methods:

replacement and repair;
pouring concrete.

Method 1. Repairing an old wooden floor

This option is suitable for you if you only need to replace worn floorboards and strengthen loose ones. In my case, it also turned out to be acceptable. Here is a diagram of the overhaul of an old wood flooring:

clean the floorboards from old paint or varnish. For this, it is best to use a grinder;
replace old, worn-out boards with more reliable ones;
check the way of fixing the boards to the logs. In most cases, they are nailed, but for a more secure fix, use self-tapping screws;
putty on wood to cover up cracks, pits and grooves and rub these places with sandpaper;
remove small debris with a vacuum cleaner and then a damp cloth;
apply paint / varnish to the repaired floor;
lay the floor covering.

If most of the floorboards have become unusable, it is wise to replace the entire floor. Modern technologies make it possible to create a truly reliable, environmentally friendly and durable structure.

Thanks to the tongue, the boards are tightly connected to each other. You can even reinforce the joint with glue. After installation, you just have to choose and lay the flooring. We will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each type of flooring later. Now let's consider a method of pouring a concrete floor.

Method 2. Pouring a concrete floor

If your old wood floor is in critical condition, simple plank replacements and putty are indispensable. In this case, you can fill the concrete screed yourself.

The most important thing in this option is to achieve a perfectly flat surface, because irregularities can lead to undesirable consequences, for example, to deformation and damage to the floor covering.

Here is a diagram of the preparatory work:

dismantle the old wooden floor. Remove floorboards and joists completely;
remove debris from the underground space by cleaning the old screed or floor;
lay the waterproofing. For this, plastic wrap is usually used;
glue the damper tape along the walls. Sometimes they do without it, but this reduces the reliability and durability of the concrete floor;
since you repair the concrete pavement yourself, be sure to use guide beacons;
cover the base with expanded clay. This material is relatively light in weight and has good thermal insulation properties. In principle, you can do without it, but with large differences in height or when using gypsum fiber sheets, expanded clay is necessary;
perform reinforcement. As a rule, reinforcement is used when pouring the foundation and the floors themselves. But for strengthening the concrete floor, reinforcement will certainly not be superfluous.

There are several ways to fill the floor:

pouring a cement-sand mixture. The pouring process itself is quite hard work, and the solution will harden within a month. But on the other hand, you will be pleased with the low cost of the issue. In addition, this method has been used in construction for a very long time, therefore it is considered reliable and proven;
filling with dry cement mixture. If you choose this method, then the work will not be so hard. And the hardening process will not be so long - up to 10 days. The process of leveling the surface with this filling method is much easier. But be prepared for the fact that the price of the issue will increase proportionally;
laying gypsum fiber sheets or gypsum fiber board. In construction, the name "dry screed" is also found. When using GVL, an almost ideal result awaits you with minimal labor costs. The only drawback of this option is the high price, but it is fully justified.

Now about the flooring

Hardware stores offer us a wide selection of floor coverings that differ in their characteristics and prices. This is parquet, and laminate, and linoleum, and carpet, and the modern Art Vinyl covering (art vinyl), and various types of floor tiles. Let's talk about the properties of each of the listed floor coverings:

parquet board. The covering is made of natural wood, so your floor will be aesthetically pleasing and environmentally friendly. If necessary, the parquet board can be easily dismantled and then re-laid. In order for the parquet to retain its original appearance, it requires special care. In addition, it is sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. Lay the parquet board in dry, ventilated rooms. Therefore, for a kitchen, hallway or bathroom, this is not the best solution;
laminate. Unlike parquet, a laminate board consists of four layers: stabilizing, bearing (the lock is built into it), decorative (wood-like pattern), upper protective. Laminate flooring is more unpretentious and does not require special care, like parquet, but at the same time it is afraid of moisture. For home use, the best solution would be class 31-32 laminate. Suitable for laying in almost any room, except for the bathroom;
linoleum. Universal floor covering. Can be on a foam or felt base. The foam base is not sensitive to moisture and is suitable for any room. Felt provides additional heat and sound insulation, but is not suitable for rooms with high humidity. But for a living room or bedroom, linoleum on a felt base will be the best solution. For home use, household and semi-commercial linoleum is suitable. For rooms with low traffic, for example, a bedroom, 0.1-0.2 mm of a protective layer will be enough. For the living room, a protective layer of 0.3 mm is suitable, and for the hallway and kitchen - from 0.4 to 0.6. The higher the thickness of the protective layer, the more durable the floor covering. For a more reliable fixation, linoleum should be glued to the surface;
carpet. Consists of four layers: secondary backing, anchoring layer, primary backing, pile. Has good heat and sound insulation. Sensitive to moisture, therefore it is suitable for laying only in dry rooms with low traffic. In the kitchen and hallway, carpet will quickly wear out and lose its aesthetic properties;
art vinyl. A new-fashioned floor covering that allows you to implement almost any design solution. Externally, art vinyl can be styled like wood, stone or other natural material. According to the manufacturers, it combines the aesthetic qualities of parquet, the practicality of linoleum (not afraid of moisture) and the modularity of floor tiles. For installation, simply glue the art vinyl tiles to a clean, even and dry surface. You will have to pay extra for such versatility - the cost of the material exceeds the price of linoleum and laminate;
floor tiles. Ideal for rooms with high humidity, easy to clean, so it will be the best solution for a bathroom or kitchen.

Source: http://remont-ka.ru

Conclusion

So, now you have an idea of how to repair the flooring without the help of specialists, and what are the options. and photos, in which you can clearly observe the process, will help you with repair work.

You have learned about the properties of flooring, so you can choose the best one for your room. Hope this information was helpful to you. And in order not to miss other useful repair articles, subscribe to our groups on social networks. and may your home please you!

Source: https://seberemont.ru/remont-polov-svoimi-rukami/

Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment in stages: professional advice

The floor is the most frequently used area of any apartment, which experiences a lot of stress and exposure to a variety of environments and liquids every day. When renovating a home on your own, it is important to carry out a high-quality repair of the floor in an apartment with your own hands, gradually completing all the steps necessary for this.

What repairs and when to do

Floor repair on your own is a rather complicated, time-consuming and responsible process. First, you need to figure out the types of manipulations that will have to be carried out. To do this, it is important to assess the state of the structure and decide what needs to be done: cosmetic or cap. repair.

Owners of new buildings have a floor with a ready-made and well-made screed. In this case, it will be possible to do with cosmetic repairs: if necessary, fill in the leveling mixture and lay the floor covering.

An old apartment often assumes a cap. repairing the floor, especially if wood was used as a covering. Wooden floors have a limited lifespan, and over time, the floorboards will creak or collapse when walked on. Speech about how to carry out a cosmetic finish of the worn-out wooden covering cannot go here.

The types of floor repairs largely depend on the type of coating that will be used. There is a standard classification of coatings used in floor renovation. In it, materials such as parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles, linoleum, solid board, stone flooring, carpet, self-leveling floors are distinguished.

Parquet for renovation

Parquet flooring has been known since the 17th century, when it was first used in the palaces of the kings of France. The main advantage of a parquet floor is its environmental friendliness.

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of colors, sizes and methods of laying parquet and parquet boards, which allows you to repair the floors in the room in a style that is unique for each room.

Before laying such a coating, the floors are leveled with a special screed so that the height differences of irregularities do not exceed half a centimeter.

If there is high humidity in the room, then the film from the inside will be covered with perspiration. In this case, it is not recommended to lay parquet.

The disadvantages of such a coating are the high price and instability to moisture. Also, this material cannot be used when installing a "warm floor".

Tile, laminate, board and stone

If there is high humidity or high traffic in the room being repaired, then in this case, preference should be given to ceramic tiles.

This type of flooring is resistant to temperature extremes, detergents and moisture. It is perfect for renovating bathroom floors.

But it should be borne in mind that the tile floor will be cold, so it is worth laying electric or water heating under it.

Laminate flooring can be confused with parquet in appearance. However, it is made not of wood, but of a pressed HDF board with a polymer layer and a pattern applied to it. Laminate pattern can imitate wood, marble, and other patterns. It is quite simple to install the laminate, it does not require special care, the service life is high - up to 15 years.

Massive floorboards are not inferior to parquet in their characteristics. But such a coating requires careful maintenance: preventing moisture ingress, applying a special protective layer.

Despite the fact that stone floors are durable, they are not very popular due to the high cost and the cold that comes from the stone. Most often used in outdoor decoration of the floor of terraces and balconies.

Linoleum, carpet, self-leveling floor

More often, linoleum is used as a floor covering. It is easy to install, does not require special care, is resistant to moisture and chemicals, and has a wide variety of colors, textures and patterns.

The democratic price of the material also helps it to occupy a leading position among other finishing materials.

Even a layman can make repairs to the floor in an apartment with his own hands, gradually laying and fixing strips of linoleum.

Carpet is the most fashionable type of floor covering. With its help, it is easy to create coziness in the room, it is pleasant to the touch and makes walking comfortable even in the cold season. But the carpet requires careful maintenance, cleaning from dust, it is difficult to remove stains from it. Only regular and proper maintenance will help to keep the carpet in proper condition for many years.

Self-leveling floor is the newest among all types of flooring. It is resistant to temperature extremes and moisture, to chemicals, and also environmentally friendly. But you need to mount it on a perfectly flat surface. The material from which the floor is made may turn yellow when exposed to sunlight.

Concrete floor repair

Before you start repairing concrete floors, you need to dismantle the flooring. If there are cracks on it, then it is worth weighing all the pros and cons and deciding whether to repair the old base or form a new one. Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment in stages:

Before restoration, the floor is cleaned from dust with a vacuum cleaner or a brush, and from greasy stains - with abrasive compounds (solvents).
Further, the concrete surface is primed with a special solution or PVA, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 4. Dry the primed surface for at least a day.
Further, if necessary, potholes and small cracks are putty, a new layer of screed is applied.
Before pouring the self-leveling compound, you need to dry the screed for several days.
The selected floor covering is placed on the repaired concrete base.

Repair of a wooden floor

Repairing old wood floors begins with identifying creaky floorboards and logs, as well as those parts of the structure that are covered with mold. Defective parts found are replaced with new items.

The entire floor area is treated with an anti-fungal agent.

If certain areas of the floor in the room are more often than others exposed to moisture, then they should be covered with waterproofing materials, since antifungal impregnation alone will not be enough.

Frequently, gaps form in wood flooring due to the drying out of the wood. You can eliminate them as follows:

The floor is sanded.
The slots are sealed with a primer and another layer is removed with a grinder.
The boards are primed with nitro lacquer.
After the nitro varnish dries, it is primed with a topcoat (matte or glossy).

Repair of laminate and tile floors

During operation, cracks, scratches, dents from falling objects, swelling from liquid ingress may form on the surface of the laminate. Scratches can be easily removed with a wax crayon.

Dents lend themselves well to correction with special pastes. If, after falling objects onto the laminate, the locks are damaged or the coating swollen, then the only option here is to completely replace such a section of the floor.

Since ceramic tiles are the most damage-resistant material among all floor coverings, they are less likely to be repaired. However, situations are not excluded when cracks, chips, and potholes form in the slabs.

It is possible to repair floors from such a coating as follows: fill it with cement milk - a solution of cement and water in a ratio of 1: 4. It is applied to the tile and rubbed with a cotton swab (first along and then across).

In order for the solution to dry completely, the repaired floor area must be covered during operation.

If the damage to ceramic tiles is significant and gives it an unaesthetic appearance, then the only repair option is to completely replace the unusable elements with new ones.

Repair of linoleum, carpet, stone coverings

Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment is carried out in stages as follows:

The most common defects in linoleum can be swelling, cracking, peeling, or tearing. Such problems can be easily solved like this:

using special glue, which should be drawn into a syringe and inserted under the damaged area;
then a load is placed on this part of the floor and the glue is allowed to dry completely;
if the damage to the coating is significant, then the areas are replaced with new ones.

In order to repair defective areas of carpet flooring, you need to have its spare parts:

the damaged area is cut out, a patch is put in its place. It is attached with double-sided tape or glue;
so that the edges of the patch do not unravel, they are pre-treated with latex glue;
before cutting and gluing the patch, it is worth considering the pattern, as well as the direction of the pile.

In order to give an aesthetic look to the stone flooring, the following series of actions are carried out:

various cracks and chips are easily removed by grinding the stone and then polishing it;
polishing is carried out with special chemicals that are rubbed into the stone and make the coating impervious to dirt;
such simple manipulations will help get rid of cracks up to 5 mm deep.

Self-leveling floor repair

During operation, irregularities, chips, cracks, small roughness and grains can form on the surface of the self-leveling floor. It is important to remember that all compounds used in the renovation process must be compatible with the mixture from which the floor is made.

The cracks of the self-leveling floor are removed by stripping the area to the concrete base and pouring a new one. Grains and scratches are removed during the sanding process. After sanding, the polymer composition is again applied to the floor surface.

In each case, renovation, floor finishing requires a special approach. The choice of certain methods will depend on the characteristics of the flooring and the wishes of the owner. In any case, a properly carried out repair in compliance with all technological requirements will bring the floor into proper condition and will delight the home owner for a long time to come.