Do-it-yourself brick stoves for a house. How, using drawings, to fold brick ovens for a house with a hob with your own hands

Stove heating as a way of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove-maker, many owners of suburban real estate are forced to master the construction of brick ovens with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase Construction Materials for a significant amount.

Furnace types

A do-it-yourself brick stove for home can be:

Russian;
Swedish;
Dutch.

Ovens are also distinguished:

baths;
garden;
heating;
heating and cooking;
fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove-makers, it is considered the most versatile brick construction. It is equipped with a resting place called a bed. A cooking chamber is placed under it - a firebox or a crucible, under which there is a blower. It must ensure continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick ovens for home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, the Russian stove is capable of heating living space, the area of which exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small do-it-yourself brick oven is intended for:

for space heating;
for cooking food.

A cast-iron stove on 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. In the process of building a stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious design flaw is the high degree of fire hazard. To prevent a fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of furnace unit owes its appearance to Russian stove-makers, it was they who invented it. The "Dutch" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and different high degree heat transfer. It will take 10 hours to completely warm up a cold room with it.

During the off-season, a Dutch brick stove with its own hands is able to retain heat throughout the day. Its constructional design provides high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

"Holland" is erected only using oven bricks, which accumulates heat quickly and gives off gradually. This building material for the construction of stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what is needed for this

Having considered the designs of the furnaces and having made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. In addition to design, the furnace structure must comply with fire safety requirements, therefore, the stage of preparation for its construction is so important, which involves:

Development of detailed diagram stove masonry with or without stove.
Determination of the installation site of the structure.
Selection of materials.
Selection of tools.
Estimating construction costs.

In addition to the above activities, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how competently the project of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you can not develop diagrams - do-it-yourself oven drawings, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, it is necessary to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also does not hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing the location of the stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of how to lay out a brick oven in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove-makers advise novice craftsmen to build reduced models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize mistakes and miscalculations. When are selected complex structures ovens - laying ovens with your own hands for inexperienced craftsmen can be overwhelming. In this case, you should seek professional help.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of bricks.

On sale there are 4 types of bricks for the construction of furnace units:

hand molded;
ceramic;
refractory;
silicate.

Ceramic products are used for facing the unit. It is advisable to purchase brick M-250 or M-500, which is more expensive, but more homogeneous than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when a brick stove is being built with your own hands for a summer residence or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and various impurities and therefore it must be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units is normal, skinny or oily. The proportions of the preparation of the mortar and the technology of laying bricks depend on which type of it is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has normal fat content.

Instrument preparation

To fold a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools needed:

for cutting bricks - grinder;
for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell of no more than 2 millimeters;
shovel;
to seal the solution - jointing;
for masonry mixture - combined kerma;
perforator plus a mixer nozzle for it;
for chopping bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

tape measure at least 5 meters long;
to control verticality - a plumb line;
a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
to check the evenness of the laying - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
building and flexible levels.

Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick oven

When we put the stove with our own hands, first of all, provide a distance between the chimney and the roof overlap, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can start marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging a common building base. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the foundation of the home ownership. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of stress.

First, the pit is poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base will certainly be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Brick masonry for the house

First of all, you need to study the drawings of the stove with your own hands made of bricks. Then they prepare a solution and lay the first row with a spatula and a trowel. Often novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not "regret" the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is performed as follows:

Hold the brick in suspension with one hand.
By applying light blows, they mark the place of the chip.
Keeping the brick in weight, they carry out its sharp and precise chopping into parts according to the marked marks.
When they build a wood-fired stove for a summer residence or at home with their own hands, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, they put the outer row of bricks, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be chopped. They are laid with the chopped side inside the structure array. This moment is important when constructing chimney ducts and a firebox. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of the construction of arches and vaults with your own hands

When they build arches and vaults, they also use the drawings of a brick oven with their own hands for a summer residence or other structure. Bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual filling, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, use a "lock" layout or masonry by the "bridge" method - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be exchanged for a wooden frame.

For the construction of the pipe, silicate bricks are used that can withstand temperature extremes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no irregularities or chips in the chimney. When the furnace structure is ready, a control furnace is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small do-it-yourself brick ovens are popular in private houses. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it will serve for decades.

In the recent past, a stationary solid fuel stove served as the main source of heating in a room. In this regard, the profession of a stove-maker was considered popular and worthy of respect. Nowadays, a variety of means can be used to heat houses and apartments, but, nevertheless, the popularity of such brick structures remains unchanged.

DIY oven laying lessons

According to experts, laying a stove with your own hands is a long process, but quite simple and straightforward. Any man can cope with this matter, but, of course, for this it is necessary to prepare special drawings and get acquainted with the masonry technology itself.

An excellent assistant for a novice bricklayer are various videos and other supportive lessons. Like material with step-by-step instructions quickly and easily explains all the features of masonry and installation, as a result, even an inexperienced installer will be able to do the job efficiently and, most importantly, inexpensively.

The main types of ovens

Before you start laying such a structure, it is worth dealing with the main types of stoves. Nowadays, the following types are used:

heating... They serve only for heating purposes. They are distinguished by a simplified design and simplicity of masonry, which, in comparison with all other options, is considered the simplest and fastest process.
heating and cooking... They are the most demanded and popular solution. They can be used both for heating premises and for cooking food on natural fire.

Furnace masonry, video

V modern world improved types of these structures are also used, which can be supplied with built-in cooker or a full-fledged oven.

A separate category includes fireplace stoves, which are an excellent solution for country houses and mansions. In addition to its main purpose of heating the room, fireplaces perfectly complement the interior and give warmth and comfort in the house.

The scheme of laying stoves with your own hands can differ not only in the purpose of the future structure, but also in the shape and design of the future stove. In private houses rectangular or square ovens are used, but many interior designers create sophisticated refined models in a round or oval shape. Nevertheless, before choosing the shape of the future stove, it is worth carefully considering all the features of the interior and making sure that there is the necessary space for this structure.

Despite the fact that the laying of the stove can be done on your own due to the huge variety of step-by-step instructions and videos of laying the stoves with your own hands, you still must not forget on the rules and regulations of fire safety.

Before starting the installation of the furnace, you should carefully consider the choice of its location. For instance, if the stove is installed in the central part of the room, it will be able to warm up perfectly from all sides, respectively, there will be more heat given off.

If the stove is installed near the wall, the floor will constantly "walk" cold air... Therefore, experts recommend paying attention to the central location of the oven.

Define in advance place of installation of the combustion door... It is worth remembering that the more conveniently the furnace door is located, the more convenient and faster it will be possible to load solid fuel into it and not carry garbage throughout the room.

A stove assembled from bricks can often have an impressive weight. To prevent deformation of the structure and the floor of the house, it is worth preparing a reliable concrete base in advance - the foundation.

Design features

Frequently used bricks have a fairly simple and, at first glance, inexpensive construction. Even with this simplicity, it is not difficult to achieve excellent performance and durability.

The main elements brick ovens are the chimney and the firebox... In the case of hobs, additional ovens, stoves, or an appropriate container for heating water can be used.

The main part of the building is the firebox. It is intended for loading firewood or other solid fuel that will be used for heating. The sizes of the firebox are different. Before deciding on the dimensions, it is worth considering some factors, including:

type of fuel used. When it comes to firewood, it is best to use fireboxes with a height of 50-100 cm;
desired performance metrics;
the required volume.

When laying the firebox of the stove, it is worth using only reliable, refractory material.

The chimney is another extremely important element similar structures, which serves to remove the waste of processed fuel and toxic substances formed during the operation of the furnace.

When designing a future chimney, you should make every effort to make this element even, with a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideal the chimney has a flat vertical shape... In the presence of bends and turns, the traction efficiency deteriorates, respectively, the heating efficiency of the room decreases.

Another integral element of any design is the ash pan chamber. This compartment is intended for collecting ash. Also, with the help of the ash pan chamber, air is supplied to the fuel inside the unit. The ash pan chamber is located under the grate and has its own door. The classic ash pan is three bricks high.

The main important stages of do-it-yourself masonry

From the moment the foundation is poured, at least 3-4 weeks should pass. After this time, the base will harden and acquire the desired strength., due to which it will be able to withstand the weight of the future structure.

The laying of the stove is a fairly simple, but at that time a responsible and demanding process, which must be treated with special attention and care. Each wrong step can lead to further malfunctions of the entire structure.

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners cannot imagine a private house without a stove - and this is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, then the stove will also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn period, when full heating is no longer needed, but you do not want to breed excessive dampness in the house. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, you can maintain an optimal balance of humidity and heat indoors.

Fold the oven with your own hands step-by-step instruction which has intricate configurations - it will be quite difficult for a beginner. Therefore, if there is no experience in stove business, then it is better to choose affordable option order, which will be easy to figure out.

When choosing a model, one must take into account not only the simplicity of the circuit, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the oven, since there are ovens in which not all functions are provided. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area to be heated by the heating structure.

There are a lot of stove models, since experienced stove-makers, working on one of them, make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new options for the heater appear. And in order to dwell on one of the types of ovens, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.

Prices for fireclay bricks for laying stoves

fireclay brick

Types of brick ovens

There are T The main types are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.

A heating and cooking stove can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for warming water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure is capable of heating one or two rooms of a certain area.

Such ovens are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall towards living room... Thus, the oven fulfills a threefold function - it acts as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it provides dry heat to the bedroom or living room.

work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain a balance of moisture and heat in the house in autumn or spring, when it is too early to turn on the autonomous heating or have not yet turned on the central one.

It is good to install such an oven, for example, in the country, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in the holiday village is often cut off, then it is better to choose a building with a hob for installation.

The cooking version of the oven can also be used for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for country house or for a small building for permanent residence.

Having such a stove and a supply of firewood, you don't have to worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea in the event of a power outage or gas outage.

It should be noted that any type of oven can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the stove structure depends on the area of the house or room, as well as the place that is allotted for the construction.

Choosing a place to install the oven

When choosing a place for the construction of a furnace, you need to provide for nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable conditions operation, but also for reasons of fire safety. It is especially important to consider location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney should not stumble during its erection on the beams of the attic floor or on rafter legs roofs.

The stove is installed against an internal load-bearing wall, in the middle of a room, or embedded in a wall located inside the house.

It is not recommended to erect the stove near the outer wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency from its use will be significantly reduced.
In the middle large room the oven is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative finish, it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
When building a stove into a partition between rooms, it is imperative to provide for its isolation from combustible wall materials using heat-resistant sheets of asbestos or special drywall.
The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm larger than its base on each side, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the stove.
In order to make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation site is determined, you can proceed to the purchase of materials and the preparation of all the necessary tools. The number and range of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used for masonry are always the same.

Tools to get the job done

For the process of erecting a furnace, you will need the following devices and tools:

A) A pick is used to cut and split bricks.

B) The kiln hammer has the same functions as the pickaxe, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried solution protruding from the masonry.

C) The rule is used to level the concrete on the surface of the foundation. Often it is made independently from a perfectly flat planed board.

D) A wooden spatula is used for grinding and mixing the clay solution.

E) Level - necessary tool, as it will help maintain the evenness of the rows, both horizontally and vertically.

E) A bristle brush is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the inner surfaces of the oven.

G) Pliers are used for nibbling and bending steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron building elements.

H) Lead scribe is used for markings when decorating the stove with tiles.

I) Stukalese - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.

K) Scribe-rod for markings.

K) The rasp is used for grinding lumps and removing sagging from finished masonry.

M) The building angle is necessary for removing internal and outer corners 90 degrees.

H) A plumb line is used to check the verticality of the walls.

O) A rubber hammer is used to knock on a row of bricks.

P) A chisel is needed for parsing old masonry and splitting bricks.

P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to the rows of bricks when laying.

C) Joining will be needed if the oven will not be faced finishing material, and the seams between the rows will be neatly shaped.

In addition, you will need two containers for the solution and water, as well as a sand sieve if the solution is to be made independently.

The laying of the upper rows will be easier if there are "goats"

For the convenience of work, you need to have a scaffold, which is also called "goats". It is convenient to stand on them, laying the masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides a place for installing a container with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace

The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with a common foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since during deformation or shrinkage, one of them can damage the other.
If the furnace will be erected in an already built one on a belt or columnar foundation a house with a wooden floor, you will have to open the cover and build a base for the stove from the ground.
If a compact stove model is chosen, and a slab foundation is arranged under the house, then the heating structure can be erected directly on it by making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sun after all, you will have to equip "from scratch", you need to remember that it should have the same shape as the base of the furnace, but protrude beyond it by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each side.

On a wooden floor is marked the contour of the foundation, part of the boardwalk is cut out according to the markings.
Further, a foundation pit of the required size, 450 ÷ 500 mm deep, is dug in the underground soil.
The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bed is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Pit for the furnace foundation with a sand and gravel "pillow"

After that, roofing material can be laid along the perimeter of the pit, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After solidification concrete mortar the formwork is removed from the foundation.

Instead of roofing material, you can use formwork from boards, covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet.

It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the furnace rises above the floor by 70 ÷ 100 mm. Thus, you can save bricks and simplify the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation.

On top of the sand, a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured and also compacted well.
The next step is to install a reinforcing grid made of metal wire or finished mesh at the bottom of the pit. The lattice elements are connected to each other using wire twisting.

Foundation reinforcement - option

The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared foundation pit. It can consist of rubble, sand and cement- 1: 2: 1 or gravel and cement 3: 1. This layer should take up about ⅓ of the space to be filled.
After pouring the first layer, immediately knead and pour in the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions of 3: 1.

The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remain to the top, which is required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.

If necessary, for the top layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then laid on top of the poured mortar reinforcing mesh with cells of 70 ÷ 80 mm.

Then the last one is poured upper layer mortar and leveled using a rule.

The foundation is left to cure the concrete for 27-30 days. It is advisable to moisten it daily with water and then cover it with plastic wrap - this will help make the concrete more solid and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid, which will protect brickwork stoves from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from underground.

After that, you can proceed to the main work - laying the stove.

Several recommendations for carrying out masonry work

Before starting the brick laying on the mortar, the entire structure rises dry out of the brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the ordering scheme.

Experienced stove-makers advise to carry out preliminary laying dry to all craftsmen who take up the construction of a stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not make gross mistakes when adjusting the bricks in each of the rows.

To carry out the masonry dry, you need to stock up wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the joint between the bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will need to be used for the main laying, already carried out with mortar. This "calibration" of the seam thickness is especially necessary if the laying is done "under the jointing", and must be flawless.

This process is carried out slowly, thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the firebox and how it will get into the chimney.

Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully disassembled. If the bricks were adjusted in size at the same time, then each row can be folded into a separate pile by placing the number of the row and the place in it on the bricks with a marker.
Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully fitting all the parts, it is mounted on the mortar.
When the main laying will be done, two measuring strips are placed on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied in a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer until the brick rests against the measuring rail. The excess protruding solution is picked up with a trowel.

The slats are pulled out of the masonry after installing the third to fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
Having pulled out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately "embroidered".
Carrying out the masonry for mortar, each of the rows is checked using building level compliance with horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help to simplify the process of erecting any furnace, to avoid "fatal" mistakes that can lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there are a large number of different models ovens. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options, which can be installed in a small house, since it does not take up much space, but is capable of heating a room with an area of 16 ÷ 17 m².

The design of the Yu. Proskurin oven is a double-turn heating and cooking version, equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.

If desired, a box can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber oven suitable size.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal / h. The design provides for two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for saving fuel and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without heating the whole constructions in the summer.

List of required materials

In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281 ÷ 285	-
Fireclay refractory brick, grade Ш-8	82 ÷ 85	-
Furnace door	1	210 × 250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140
Blower door	1	140 × 250
Summer gate valve for chimney	1	130 × 130
Firebox shutter	1	130 × 130
Hob latch	1	130 × 130
Grate	1	200 × 300
Single-burner hob	1	410 × 340
Steel strip	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500 × 700

In addition, for work you will need clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box, if it is decided, instead of a drying niche, install an oven.

Scheme-order of the construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin

Illustration	Brief description of the operation being performed
	The first row is laid out with a solid plane, observing the location of the bricks. It is very important to put this row perfectly exactly in all parameters, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it.
	In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. On the same row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed.
	There are special lugs on the metal doors, into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are fully secured, the doors are propped up with bricks on one or both sides.
	On the third row, the formation of the blowing chamber and the lower part of the chamber of the vertical channels continues. At the same time, the installed doors are fixed on both sides.
	On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely covered with bricks. The common chamber of vertical channels is divided in two, therefore, instead of one large hole, two are formed, having a length of ⅔ bricks and a width of half a brick.
	The fifth row goes all out fireclay bricks. Above the ash chamber, an opening is formed with a seat for the grate. To do this, a part of the brick is cut out, from the side with which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber.
	The grate is also mounted on the same row. It is planted in a clay solution or laid loosely, without a solution. A distance of 4-5 mm should remain between it and the brick.
	On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues.
	In addition, a combustion door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or covered with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress and damage.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them.
	On the ninth row, the furnace door is covered with bricks. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the overlap from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are grinded from one side and a brick is installed between them, hewn from both sides.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that hot smoke from the firebox is directed precisely into this created hole. For a smooth flow of smoke, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry goes according to the scheme, except that cutouts are made at the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, which will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob.
	Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on bricks, and a slab panel is mounted on them. A steel corner is installed on the side of the brewing niche formation.
	The 12th row is laid out from red brick, and in the future, all the masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are formed again, and a niche is formed around the hob.
	The 13th row is laid according to the scheme, but in front of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a summer-winter valve. After that, a valve is mounted on the clay-sand mortar.
	From 14 to 17 rows, the laying is carried out according to the same principle - the cooking niche and channels are formed.
	On the 18th row, steel corners are used to overlap the cooking niche. One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second is at a brick distance from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with the back side. This is done so that it is convenient to lay the next row.
	On row 19, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of the opening of the steam exhaust channel and the place for installing the valve. For this, cutouts are made on the bricks, into which the valve is mounted.
	Row 20 is laid out according to the scheme. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam outlet continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks that form the first vertical channel is shrinking.
	On row 21, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined with the help of the hollow space left. In this row, almost all bricks are laid only along the walls of the structure perimeter. Only the second vertical channel is fenced off.
	In the same row, the formed cavity is overlapped by metal strips, which are laid according to the diagram shown in the figure.
	Further, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney hole is arranged, located on the opposite side of the steam exhaust hole.
	On the 22nd row, laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A chimney hole and two vertical duct holes are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of corner is laid, which will protect the brick at the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more neat.
	23rd row - a drying chamber is formed, and its rear wall is made of bricks installed on its side. He will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct.
	On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed.
	25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first one.
	On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine two vertical channels, therefore interior bricks in both holes, grind at a slight angle.
	27 row - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. A common cleaning door is installed for them. The rest of the work follows the scheme.
	On the 28th row, the drying chamber is overlapped with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the overlapping of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is fixed with side bricks.
	On the 29th row, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely covered. A chimney hole is left, which is lined with bricks with cut out mounting slots for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a latch is installed on the clay-sand mortar.
	On the 30th row, the entire surface of the oven is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be half a brick in size.
	Row 31-32 - the formation of the chimney begins.

This figure shows a sectional view of the oven. The diagram clearly shows all the internal channels through which the heated air will circulate.

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, ridding the air of dampness.

The market today offers buyers all kinds of designs of metal "burzhuikas". Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version- a brick-built heating stove. Its advantages are obvious: due to its high weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and gives it off for a long time, warming up the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimum costs on materials and ease of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for giving.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove-maker. In it we will consider several options for simple wood stoves and give practical advice by their laying.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read "orders" - brick layout schemes, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to fold the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from the future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and you use bottled gas or electricity for cooking, then choose the option without a stove and an oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a stove bench.

For the regular heat treatment of large quantities of food and pet food, the simplest oven with hob will be just right.

We will consider three examples of ovens with step by step guide by their laying:

Simple straight-through;
With a hob;
Heating.

Let's say right away that one cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design, devoid of gas revolutions. For this reason, such ovens are installed in garages and other small spaces with an area of no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating structure is designed to heat a small room

A powerful foundation is not needed for such a stove. Having poured large gravel with a layer of 15-20 cm, filling it cement mortar and having leveled the surface according to the level, after a couple of days you can start laying.

The dimensions of the furnace in the plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blowing chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the furnace door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand how the brick is laid out.

The orders of this design are simple. The main condition during work is to observe the dressing of the seams so that the upper brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and "three-quarters" for this - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After that, the tier of bricks is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the lower row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four "three-quarters". In this way, the flue duct is narrowed again in order to retain gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, stones are placed on the edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the furnace is raised five more rows (one tier per edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The other four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version such a structure has small dimensions (width 2, and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). Nevertheless, even in such a limited area, a single-burner stove can be placed.

Work gets better when you have everything you need at hand.

Therefore, buy the following materials and accessories in advance:

Solid red brick - 107 pcs;
Blowing door - 1 piece;
Grizzly grate - 1 piece;
One-burner cast iron stove - 1 piece;
Furnace door - 1 piece;
Pipe gate valve - 1 pc.

Refractory bricks are not needed for a wood-burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, rejecting cracked and uneven.

Solution preparation

A masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts of clay with one part of water and adding eight parts of sifted sand to them. The normal consistency is determined simply: the mortar easily slides off the trowel without leaving streaks on it. When laying, it should not flow out of the seams.

The volume of the solution is determined based on the number of bricks. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can start laying the base. Its width is made 10 cm more than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of the stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole under the foundation. It is enough to make the formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10cm). Two layers of roofing material are laid on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, he is given a week to gain strength, after which they start laying.

The dimensions of the oven we are considering with a hob are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Master's advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can start laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Aligning the base with a level, lay out the second, leaving room for the blower door.

Before installation, the door must be screwed to it soft wire and tuck the ends into the seams for better fixation.

In the frame of the cast-iron door there are four holes for the wire, which serves to fix it in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with a wet asbestos cord.

The laying of the third row is carried out, overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Ordering scheme from 1 to 8 rows

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the dressing of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it there will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A on diagram 2). To clean its bottom in back wall without mortar, put the so-called knockout brick, periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two supports are made of pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving room for the furnace door. At the rear of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth from the clay protruding from the seams. This important condition to ensure good traction.

Useful advice! Focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two cuts of the stove. They will help you to better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out bricks.

Ordering scheme from 9 to 11 rows

Having raised it to the eighth row in the masonry, they block the fire door, laying a wire in the seams that fixes its frame. At the same level, a brick with a beveled end - a smoke tooth - is placed in the back of the fuel chamber. It improves the heat output by preventing the flue gases from escaping quickly into the chimney.

After finishing the ninth row, on it on clay solution lay an asbestos cord. It is necessary to seal the joints of the cast iron plate and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord dipped in clay.

12 and 13 row - the formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light sheet metal pipe is placed on the furnace, which is brought out to the roof.

Heating stove

And now let's see how to fold a brick stove designed to heat a small country house with our own hands.

Approximate prototypes of the considered version of a heating stove for a country house

Its dimensions:

width - 2 bricks (51 cm);
depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
height - 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction, you will need the following materials and accessories:

Red solid brick- 390 pcs;
Clay - 9 buckets;
Sand - 18 buckets;
Grizzly grate (25x40 cm) - 1 piece;
Furnace door (20x30 cm) - 1 piece;
Blowing door (14x20 cm) - 1pc;
Cleanout door (14x20 cm) - 1pc;
Gate valve -1 pcs;
Prefluous steel sheet(50x70 cm) - 1 piece;
Roofing material for waterproofing (100x60 cm) - 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking horizontality with a level.

The corners are the most tricky part for newbies. In order for them to be even, we recommend that you immediately install four template posts at the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards by knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such a "formwork" from floor to ceiling, you can easily deduce the ideal corners.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, from the end of the furnace, two bricks are laid with a beveled edge that goes into the ash chamber. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, which is fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Ordering diagram from 1 to 10 and cross-sections of the heating furnace

4 and 5 rows continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. The sixth row begins to lay the walls of the fuel chamber and put a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is mounted. Beveled bricks are placed in the back of the chamber to improve traction. The firebox door is blocked with the ninth row.

From 10 to 16 rows, the laying of the fuel chamber and the vertical flue duct is being carried out. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is placed in the oven.

Row 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet rag.

Rows 31-32 form a vault overlapping the oven.

33 and 34 form a chimney.

After finishing the laying, the oven is left for a week with open doors and a pipe to dry. After that, a test fire is made, burning small portions of chips, twigs or straw.

There are many options for heating a summer cottage today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters. But if all this is not possible to implement due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer residence will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around it more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with coziness.

The services of a good stove-maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the principle of operation, features and layout of the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is played correctly. Today, there are many ways to beautifully tiling and decorating a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far the technologies for heating the dwelling have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

heating;
cooking;
multifunctional;
combined.

a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
ash pan where ash is collected;
chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed to the same type of construction. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of 15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves can have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick construction. This allows the walls to warm up to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and wide, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of the room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For cladding such a furnace, tiled tiles are usually used, decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner will not be able to implement this option, since a lot of experience is required here. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for keeping the angle strictly under 60 0.

They look beautiful and unusual and round ovens, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in the furnace business V.E. Grum-Grigimailo. The furnace works on the principle of free gas movement. To ensure tightness, outside the structure is covered sheet metal... Such a stove is capable of heating a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. A metal plate lies on top (an oven can be built in).

The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, since it consists of:

combustion chamber;
chimney;
ash pan;
hob;
oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where no other heating option is provided.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat a house and prepare a delicious meal for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first thought up in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, drying for wood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

Furnace device for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a summer cottage

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of oven design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Folding such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can cope with a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily placed a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small hob, three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small summer cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove serves a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

There are hundreds of different schemes the masonry of a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove-makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, therefore each design is named after its creator: Buslaev's, Kuznetsov's stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive construction, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious stove bench.

This oven is already not only a functional device for preparing food, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, making the owners of such stoves less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for the masonry of the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by little V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its laying, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-plate stove, a small oven for baking and a cooker hood. This version of the stove will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or dacha in one room.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and basic points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choosing a brick and preparing tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You should not save on materials; further operational properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. This material contains refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 С, therefore the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The less the mass of fireclay bricks, the large quantity pores it contains, which creates aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire furnace from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing bricks for your oven, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. Bad, overexposed bricks, on the other hand, can split into several pieces. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The grade of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand by 1 cm 3.

Do not use sand-lime and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand the heat - they can handle it. Silicate brick does not conduct heat well and it will not be very comfortable in a room with such a stove.

For mortar, you need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, you should use medium liquid red oven clay. When frozen, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case, the precious heat will not quickly go away.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar that is sold in stores. Usually, it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

In consistency, such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, add more dry mix. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
Fireclay bricks - 40 pieces.
Foundation material (cement, graphium, sand).
Roofing material.
Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
Plywood or boards to create formwork.
Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
Grate.
Metal plate for one bezel (cast iron).
Ash pan and ash pan door (blower).
Cast iron door for the firebox.
Chimney valve.
Chimney view.
Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools that will be needed to build a stove.

Building level.
Scoop shovel.
Construction marker.
Protractor.
Spatula, rule.
Master OK.
Measuring tape (tape measure).
Construction plumb line.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use medium-fat red river clay that has been outdoors for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much mortar as you can handle in "1 run". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Prepare the brick for laying the stove

Before proceeding with the laying of the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, cutting at the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which parts of the bricks you need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it is easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick correctly? Before "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the oven

This is very important stage in the laying of the stove, which is advisable to produce even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of the houses already during the operation of the summer cottage. In this case, determine the place from which it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing in from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating any inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
The chimney must not pass through beams.
The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no front door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick oven, you must complete separate foundation... If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you decide to lay the stove after completion general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and sink into the ground.

Why is it so important to keep a separate foundation? A brick oven, whatever its size, has a lot of weight, which will put a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will shrink. This should in no way affect the shape and construction of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on mortar, lay the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you can see the difficult points that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb the moisture. This will prevent them from drawing water from the mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and simple maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the blower door with a brick.

Installing the combustion door

Install furnace door, having previously wrapped it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it on both sides with bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form the chimney pipe, creating overlaps for the two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.

From 7-9 rows we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, two bricks overlapping the grate must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

10 row - we close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, up to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for a secure fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately attach the slab to the dry place and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you later to lay the brick on the mortar and not be mistaken with the correct grooves under the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on a brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Outlet of the chimney through the roof

This is a crucial step, which must ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.

Follow the norms of SNIP when pulling out a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Insulate around where the pipe passes through the roof thermal insulation materials... This will ensure reliable protection from blowing out cold air and will provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is being installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wire, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with steel pipes like a sandwich. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have a much lower weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of traction directly depend on the correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the chimney should protrude at least 0.5 meters above the ridge of the roof, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can impede good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We are completing the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put on a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Lining the oven

There are many ways to decorate a stove beautifully for a summer residence.

As decorative material clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, fake diamond etc.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material will reduce heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Heating up the stove

After complete lining of the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dry. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the mortar is completely dry, the first test kindling of the oven can be carried out. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Premature kindling raw oven may lead to cracking. Use ¼ part of the wood the first time, use small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees during the first week of operation.

Do not use garbage for kindling.
The firebox door must be closed when firing.
Preheat the oven gradually, do not immediately apply a high heat.
Use good quality, well-dried firewood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can do it yourself with a stylish one, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and solid summer cottage stove.

Video: Laying a brick oven "dry"

Below we give detailed master class for laying a brick oven for a summer residence.