How to install a toilet with side openings. Fixing the toilet to the floor: an overview of possible methods and step-by-step instructions

The toilet bowl is an integral element of the plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a difficult process, but it does require some accuracy and some skills. Understanding the mechanism of the drain tank and how it is assembled from individual parts is only half or even a third of the job. In addition to this and connection to engineering networks, the plumber needs to securely fix the toilet bowl in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, as well as other operations for its arrangement? Here you will learn how it can be done.

Varieties of toilet bowls

Before proceeding directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, consider what varieties of this plumbing product exist. Among themselves, they are classified according to a number of criteria:

• bowl and tank design;
• release direction;
• material of manufacture;
• dimensions and weight of the product.

Let's start with the design of the tank and the toilet bowl - the main types of plumbing that differ in this respect are presented in the table below.

Table. The main types of toilet bowls by design.

Tank type	Description, advantages and disadvantages
	The most popular design among obsolete toilet bowls. The bowl and the tank are separated by a considerable distance relative to each other, the latter is usually located under the ceiling of the toilet. Advantages: good water pressure when flushing, a tank located under the ceiling does not take up the usable area of ​​an already small toilet. Flaws: loud noise when flushing. In addition, access to the tank for repairs is difficult.
	To date, the most common design of the toilet bowl - the tank is attached to the rear edge (where the ledge and bolt holes are located) of the bowl and is adjacent to the toilet wall. Advantages: ease of maintenance and repair, less noise when flushing compared to a separate toilet. Flaw: slightly less water pressure during operation.
	Both the tank and the toilet bowl are made in the form of a single piece, they do not need to be fastened to each other. Dignity: reliability - the missing connections of the tank and bowl cannot become leaks. As for the toilet-compact, ease of maintenance. Flaw: any damage to the tank or bowl will require a complete replacement of the product - it will not be possible to supply new parts separately.
	To install the toilet, a metal frame is used, fixed on a concrete or brick wall. A tank is installed inside, and a bowl is attached outside. Then the frame is closed with a decorative wall of drywall and tiles. Advantages: attractive appearance, compactness. Flaws: when arranging, you need a lot of time and effort, and repairing the tank will require dismantling the false wall.

Varieties of toilet bowls according to the type of connection with the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for those toilets where the waste pipe is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. The vertical structure is considered obsolete today, but earlier it was used in those houses where sewerage was laid in interfloor ceilings. Oblique outlet is often used in prefabricated apartment buildings

Toilet bowls are made from the following materials:

• faience- cheap and fragile, the service life is about 15 years;
• porcelain- more expensive than faience, but stronger, more beautiful and more durable;
• reinforced acrylic- light, strong and durable, but not in the best way survives contact with high temperatures;
• steel- strong material, suitable for a toilet bowl in a public place.

Now let's move on to how to fix the toilet to the floor:

• fastening the toilet with dowels;
• fixing the toilet with glue or sealant;
• installation on cement;
• fixing the toilet on taffeta;
• installation of plumbing on a frame hidden behind a false wall.

toilet prices

Fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels

The most common way to install a toilet on the toilet floor is by dowels and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First - you need to drill the tile. This event requires special care and accuracy - any mistake will lead to damage to the flooring. The second problem of fixing plumbing with dowels is that this installation method is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.

But back to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to fix the toilet on the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:

• measuring tape;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• electric drill;
• drill bit for concrete (preferably a spare tool);
• a rag or microfiber cloth;
• ammonia.

In some cases, you may still need a sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. And now we will describe step by step the process of attaching the toilet bowl to the floor with dowels.

Step 1."Try on" the toilet by making a preliminary installation in the place where it should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use, and the points of connection of the water supply to the tank. Try to shake the toilet bowl - you need to determine if the floor is flat under it.

Important! If the floor is not even enough and the toilet staggers, then before fixing the plumbing on the dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is an alternative option - processing the joint with silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be in the floor, but in the toilet itself. In this case, the support of the product is cleaned and leveled with emery cloth.

Step 2 Using a tape measure, determine the place where the toilet should be, more accurately. Make preliminary marks in the holes for the fasteners.

Step 3 Remove the toilet bowl from this place and make sufficiently large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the previously applied dots.

Step 4 Prepare a drill with a drill bit for concrete. First, drill holes in the tile. At the same time, the drill should work at low speeds, and all work should be done very carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.

Step 5 Then finish the holes, but already in the concrete floor. Either set the drill to a higher speed, or replace it with a rotary hammer, which will do a much better job of this task.

Step 6 Clean the tiles at the installation site of the toilet from dust and other contaminants formed during the drilling of holes for the dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface with ammonia.

Step 7 Insert the dowels into the previously drilled holes.

Step 8 Check if the bolts from the toilet bowl kit fit into the dowels properly. If for some reason their quality does not suit you, replace the fasteners with your own.

Step 9 Set the toilet back in place. Check if the holes in the tile are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.

Step 10 Insert the bolts into the dowels through the holes in the toilet support. Don't forget the plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful - there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself when overtightening. The last thing to do is to cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic overlays. After that, fixing the toilet bowl to the floor on the dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.

You may be interested in information on how to replace

In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet bowl can compete with installing plumbing fixtures on dowels and screws. Here, specialized building adhesives are used, purchased in the relevant stores, or epoxy-based mixtures prepared independently. Also, very often ordinary silicone sealant is used to attach the toilet.

The popularity of this method of installing a sanitary ware is due to its certain advantages.

1. Installation cleanliness– no dust or dirt is generated when the toilet is seated on the adhesive. There is no need to waste energy on cleaning the bathroom.
2. Safety- in the process of installing the toilet with glue, there is practically no risk of damaging the sanitary ware or tiles on the floor of the toilet.
3. Simplicity- in the previous fastener method, for successful drilling of tiles, you need to have some experience in the repair business. Here it is not required - it is enough just to be able to handle the glue gun.
4. Reliability- a toilet installed on glue or sealant will not stagger.

At the same time, it should be understood that such a method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after planting the toilet bowl on the glue, it will not be possible to use it for 12-20 hours.

To fix plumbing to the floor, you will need the following materials and tools:

• tape measure and square;
• marker or pencil;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• a small rag;
• spray bottle with soapy water;
• emery skin;
• ammonia;
• glue or silicone sealant for fixing the toilet.

Imagine to the floor with your own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Perform a preliminary “fitting” of the toilet bowl in the toilet - put it on cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tile and imagine how to mount this plumbing product in the best way. Estimate whether it is comfortable for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewerage system and connect the water supply to the tank.

Step 2 Use a corner or tape measure to center the toilet. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should recede from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.

Step 3 Remove the cardboard from under the toilet and re-align it with the walls of the toilet. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or corner.

Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with the walls of the toilet, do not forget about the tank - it should also be located as evenly as possible. Check whether the holes are aligned with which both parts of the sanitary ware will be connected to each other in the future.

Step 4 Draw a marker or pencil around the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the floor in the toilet.

Step 5 Using a knife or sandpaper, sand the edge of the toilet seat so that it becomes perfectly flat and provides better “grip” to the glue.

Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand that part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go beyond the edge of the line marked in one of the previous steps with the abrasive and do not ruin the tile.

Step 6 Treat the tile where the toilet is installed with ammonia to degrease the surface. Then dry with a microfiber cloth.

Step 7 Carefully apply glue or silicone sealant (as in this case) to the edge of the toilet bowl support. The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the fastening of the sanitary ware to the floor will be fragile, and in case of excess, it is likely to stain the tile.

Step 8 Transfer the toilet bowl with glue applied to the bowl support to the toilet and gently lower it to the place marked in one of the previous steps with a marker. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise there is a high risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing with glue or sealant and fixing the product in the wrong way.

Step 9 Spray the area around the toilet seat with soapy water from a spray bottle. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.

Step 10 Moisten the spatula with the same soapy solution that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining adhesive or sealant.

Step 11 Allow some time, 12 to 24 hours, for the adhesive, sealant, or other compound you used to attach the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing. , you can read in our article.

Step 12 After the adhesive has finally set on the tile, continue the installation of the toilet bowl - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and bring water to it, fix the seat with the lid on the product, etc.

Important! As mentioned above, the adhesive for attaching the toilet to the floor can be prepared independently. To do this, warm up to + 50 ° C 20 parts of epoxy, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 hardener to it. Mix them, and then pour 40 parts of cement. Stir everything again until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Use the product as an adhesive as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.

Video - Mounting the toilet on silicone

Other ways to install a toilet

In addition to those mentioned in the previous sections, there are other ways to secure the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's make a brief review.

Previously, a very popular way to fix the toilet was to wall it up with concrete - a small recess was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was smeared with mortar. Very often, products mounted in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings (if the residents did not carry out). Mounting in this way is quite reliable, it is relatively easy to implement.

But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the junction of the toilet bowl, installed in this way, and the floor. The second problem of fixing plumbing to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, to remove a toilet installed in this way, it will have to be broken. Therefore, with the advent of modern building bites and sealants, the method has lost its relevance.

Another outdated way of attaching the toilet to the floor is with taffeta. It is a wooden substrate about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. A large number of nails or anchors are installed on the underside of the taffeta. With their help, a wooden substrate immersed in a recess is fixed in a concrete solution. And only then a toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and fastened with screws.

Important! When mounting plumbing on a wooden substrate, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with drying oil or varnish so that it does not dampen and become unusable too quickly.

And the last way to fix the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor - suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is built near the wall of the toilet (most often included in the kit with hanging plumbing). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the tank of the sanitary ware are hidden behind a false wall of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and beautiful mount. But the implementation of this method requires a lot of time and money.

The choice of the above methods of fixing the toilet bowl to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase. In any case, with a smart approach and proper installation, your plumbing will last for many years and will stand firmly in its place.

The scheme of fastening the toilet with taffeta

Epoxy is the best toilet glue

Modern technologies for the manufacture of sanitary ware make it possible to fill the building materials market with various models of toilet bowls.

Sanitary appliances differ in modifications of drain tanks, material of manufacture (porcelain, faience), fastening device, location of water supply and drain outlet. In most cases, bathrooms and toilets are tiled.

The walls and floors are covered with tiles. How to fix a toilet bowl on a tiled floor so that it stands firmly on its base? In this article, we will give the reader information on how best to do this.

Preparatory work before installing the toilet

Achieve a comfortable toilet pipe length

The drain sink is installed when the wall and floor tiling work is completed.

If you install the plumbing first, and then proceed with the ceramic flooring, you will have to deal with a rather complex cut in the slabs to bypass the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.

This will cause the risk of damage to the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is unsuccessful.

When facing walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a convenient protrusion length from the wall of the water pipe.

The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a stopcock can be installed.

The sewer drain can protrude from both the wall and the floor. The sewer socket must provide a tight connection with the corrugation.

Necessary tools and materials

To successfully complete the task, you should acquire patience and prepare the following set of tools:

• perforator, drill;
• marker;
• drills for glass and ceramics;
• screwdrivers;
• sealant;
• spanners;
• adjustable wrench and cap heads with a collar;
• dowels with self-tapping screws;
• pliers;
• corrugated pipe;
• tap;
• core;
• grinder with an abrasive wheel;
• connecting hose.

Related article: Electrical style interior. Stylish furniture and soft fabrics.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor

Toilet installation

The installation of the toilet bowl on the tiled floor is done in different ways, depending on the position of the mounting holes in the sink pedestal.

There are three options for attaching a plumbing fixture to a ceramic floor:

Installation of a toilet bowl with a vertical mount

Most models of drain sinks are made with mounting holes for vertical fasteners. The installation of the sink is carried out in several stages:

Before installing the toilet, check the horizontal position of the installation site. If no deviations are found, then the base of the pedestal and tiles are not cleaned along the contour of the sink support.

Side fixation of the toilet

Installing a toilet with side mounting holes is somewhat different than installing a sink with vertical fasteners.

The difference is that the mounting parts are hidden under the instrument's pedestal.

Install this model of the device as follows:

Attaching the base of the toilet

This installation method is resorted to if the floor base is equipped with a heating system. There is a risk of damage to the heating equipment when drilling mounting holes. For more details about the work, see this video:

In this case, cleaning the base of the pedestal and the surface of the ceramic tile along the contour of the toilet bowl support is mandatory. This is done to increase the adhesion of the surfaces to be glued.

Press the toilet firmly against the floor

Glue the toilet on the tiled surface with liquid nails. The surfaces are covered with glue, then they are pressed against each other.

The toilet bowl is removed from the installation site and placed on its side. Withstand the time specified in the instructions. Then set the sink in place, press it to the floor.

The rest of the installation work is carried out in the same way as in the previous cases.

You can start installing a toilet on a tiled floor on your own only if you have the skills and experience in this type of work.

Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilets are separated:

By appointment

- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- suspended
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
— hi-tech

According to body material

– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally in color

Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.

Direction of outlet from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of ​​​​the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Here, buy a flexible eyeliner (hose) to connect to a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.

toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is evident.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores then work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks, if they are, then dismantle with caution.

We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows are not strong, but it’s not hell to be liberal.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.

Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet bowl.
We are aiming for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: cutting off the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore, we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:

If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "habitat" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.

Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting next step.

Surface preparation for mounting

The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.

We knead the solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly.
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the outlet of the toilet and the inlet sewer. By moving further or moving closer the device, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, it won’t fit in full size. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float stopping its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll tell you just one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.

Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - it's about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.

This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used for installation:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when scrolling the page to the very bottom, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect

Usually, fixing the toilet to the floor is carried out at the stage of housing construction and is carried out by professionals. However, during operation, sometimes there is a need to replace equipment, and here the owners sometimes find themselves at an impasse.

Someone immediately turns to a company that provides the relevant services, but some home craftsmen decide to save money and make the rearrangement on their own. There are no big difficulties in this, and installation methods are quite accessible even for people who do not have much experience in repair work.

In this article, we will talk about the various ways to fix the toilet to the floor, as well as what tools and materials you will need for this.

There are several ways to attach a toilet to the floor.

The most popular include:

• landing on the installation kit (dowel);
• the use of various adhesive compositions;
• installation on cement mortar;
• fixation on taffeta;
• side mount.

The choice, first of all, depends on the quality of the floor in the toilet or bathroom and on the material of its finishing coating, since the same method of fastening is not relevant for all surfaces. Features and nuances of different installation options depend on the design and type of discharge into the sewer.

Complete with toilet bowls of almost all modifications is a standard installation kit (dowel-screw). It is suitable for mounting equipment, but it provides for landing the compact on an absolutely flat surface that does not have errors and slopes.

Plumbing fixtures attached to the floor in this way have good structural stability and do not sway even during intensive use. However, the method is not suitable for all models and is usually applied to toilets of small size and light weight.

After buying a toilet bowl, it must be attached to the floor. There are two types of fasteners for the product, and it is impossible to say which method is better. It all depends on the wishes of the person.

How to attach a toilet to a tiled floor

1. Open. Installations are reliable and installation is simple. But inferior in aesthetic appearance, such a toilet installation design is clearly visible. The advantage is that it takes less time and effort to install the structure.
2. Closed. Here the installation will be inside, so it is not visible. When buying a product, you need to specify in advance whether it is possible to install such mounts. The installation process is very similar to the open model.

Materials and tools

For fastening you will need the following tools:

1. Drill and drills.
2. Screwdriver Set.
3. Marker.
4. Sealant.
5. Staple.
6. Wrench.
7. Kern.
8. Hammer.
9. Pipe to drain water.
10. Hose for water intake.

What can you attach

Types of installations will differ from the selected method (open or closed). But the material that covers the floor in the toilet also plays an important role. Most often it is a tile, under which there is concrete. Therefore, the best elements will be:

1. Dowel. There are a lot of product varieties. The most common is the dowel-nail. It is most suitable when working with concrete or brick. It can be unthreaded (like a regular nail) or threaded.
2. Anchor. Also a great selection of products. Like dowels, they are suitable for brick and concrete. The anchor can be mechanical and chemical (the latter involves filling the hole with glue for durable installation).
3. Self-tapping screw More suitable for wood. But it can also be used for concrete. It is necessary to choose steel, coated with zinc.

For the closed mounting method, the basic settings are the same. But if for some reason the surface cannot be drilled, the following elements are suitable as fasteners:

1. Silicone adhesive.
2. Liquid Nails.
3. Epoxy resin.

Attention! Such fasteners are aligned with sandpaper. This method is effective if there are wires under the floor, and when drilling holes there is a risk of damaging them.

Fixing the toilet to the floor on a tile: step by step

The installation process will be slightly different, depending on the type of installation chosen. For example, to install a toilet with an open mount, you need to do the following:

1. We install the structure in the intended location.
2. Using a marker, we make marks on the tile where the fasteners will be mounted. The marker must be vertical, otherwise there is a risk of shifting the marks, which will cause incorrect installation.
3. We move the toilet. In the place where the marks remained, we make holes (we use a drill).
4. We take a core and scratch the tile coating (this is necessary to avoid the drill slipping on the tile).
5. First we use a drill designed for glass.
6. As soon as we have overcome the glass layer of the tile, we take a concrete drill.
7. We make a hole of the required depth. The size depends on the mounts purchased.
8. The finished hole is cleared of debris.
9. Fill the hole with sealant. This will protect the unit from moisture.
10. After adding sealant to the holes, you can insert the installation.
11. Now install the toilet. Along its contour, it is also necessary to make a strip of sealant to protect the base from moisture.
12. Elements are inserted into the mounting holes. We spin them.
13. To protect the installation from water, as well as to give them an aesthetic appearance, plugs can be put on the bolts.
14. Sealant residues are removed with a staple.

If we chose an internal mount, we do the following:

1. Before fixing the product, it is necessary to make holes for water supply and sewerage.
2. As in the open installation method, work begins with the creation of marks on the tile.
3. We drill the necessary holes. We place hidden fasteners on the floor.
4. After installing the fasteners on the floor, they must be fixed with bolts.
5. We install the toilet with an empty part on the fasteners.
6. We fix the structure with bolts through the side holes.
7. Do not tighten the bolts to the very end, as it is likely that you will have to slightly adjust the position of the toilet in order to attach it to the plumbing and sewer.

Each person can mount the toilet on the tile, the main thing is to follow the instructions.