Lay the wooden floor on a concrete screed. How to make a screed on wooden logs on the floor

Building a house begins with a foundation, and major repairs are impossible without reliable flooring. This plane in any room has the greatest load, therefore, the reliability of the floor and its insulation depend on the quality of the installation of wooden logs. Although it takes half the budget to renovate, jogged wood floors provide comfort, a pleasant wood grain feel, and a mechanically resistant base that is designed to withstand heavy loads.

What are lags, their purpose

Logs are beams used as a base for a wooden floor or other covering. Logs are laid parallel to the walls, and wooden boards, plywood or laminated chipboard are mounted transversely on them.

Wooden floors on logs - a reliable design that is used in construction:

new wooden houses;
brick buildings;
buildings made of concrete slabs and other materials.

Usually a wooden beam is used for the log, since it is a publicly available material. It is suitable for styling:

on the screed;
ground base;
old wooden floors and other coverings.

Floors on logs are practically indispensable in cases where there is no other way to competently equip the flooring on a base unprepared for finishing. The main functional advantages of the lag:

surface leveling;
providing sufficient sound insulation;
increase in thermal insulation of floors;
the ability to hide communications;
load distribution on the lower layer;
providing air circulation under the floor;
creating a suitable crate for flooring boards;
the ability to replace several structural elements if they are damaged without replacing the entire floor;
ensuring the strength of the floor when installing a log in a wooden house.

Wooden boards cannot be laid on an earthen base without laying a log in a wooden house, no matter how dry and well prepared this base may be. Without a lattice of timber, wooden floors will quickly become unusable. Everyone knows that the presence of high-quality wooden floors is both a special microclimate in the house and a beneficial effect on the health of wood.

The modern building materials market offers ready-made logs or timber and beams used for these purposes. A long wooden beam of standard sizes is suitable - 40x60 mm or 50x50 mm. Laying floors from modern materials using power tools and the latest technology is a pleasure. Therefore, it is more profitable to make logs and lay the floors on your own without paying for the work of an entire construction team.

Tip: The board for laying the floor should be about half as thin as the wooden logs, then the load will be less.

Adjustable lag designs: the pros of using

Many are familiar from childhood - in order to level the surface, you need to put a wedge or a piece of a flat board. But this is not so easy when it comes to floor surfaces with large wall-to-wall level differences. Large differences occur not only with uneven subsidence of the soil in old houses, but also when logs are laid in a wooden house during its construction. In this case, adjustable lags are made.

This design saves time on leveling the floor and simplifies its installation, and inside there is space for thermal insulation and additional insulation, there is also space for laying communications. Adjustable structures are not used only with low ceilings, since such floors will take about 7-12 cm from the height of the walls.

What is the best way to make lags?

Logs under a wooden floor can be made from different types of wood, and when there is a choice, it is better to use an inexpensive, but resistant to destruction and wetting timber, for example, from fir and other conifers. Floors are best made from decorative types of wood, and for rooms with a low load, for example, in a nursery or bedroom, soft wood with a beautiful texture pattern is suitable - cherry, alder, walnut, aspen. It makes no sense to pay for expensive wood with high decorative properties for painting, as long as there are no defects and knotty.

Heavily loaded floors are made from Siberian larch, oak and ash, as they do not leave dents from heels and furniture legs. Supermarkets also offer ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, which have milled spikes and grooves on the edges for quick seamless installation. Logs under the floors are usually lined with inexpensive wood - spruce, pine. Quite enough dry wood of 2-3 grades.

Tip: If you take wood for logs in a building supermarket, consultants will tell you the size of the log for a wooden floor, help you choose a beam of a suitable breed and the desired section.

The beam under the logs and the board for laying the floor must necessarily be treated with a water-soluble, anti-fungal and mold composition, such as the drug MHCC, ammonium fluorosilicon, HCP.

What is the required distance between the lags?

The lag step (the interval between the timber) directly depends on the thickness of the board or flooring. When thick, durable boards are used, the joists are not placed so tightly. And on a light coating, for example, under plywood, logs are often placed.

The ratio of the thickness of the board and the distance between the lags:

for 20 mm - 30 cm;
for 24 mm - 40 cm;
for 30 mm - 50 cm;
for 35 mm - 60 cm;
for 40 mm - 70 cm;
at 45 mm - 80 cm;
by 50 mm - 90-100 cm.

Tip: If by the end of the installation the lag has gone astray, it does not matter, take a little step between the last lags, which will strengthen the structure. If the floor board is rather thin, it is better to reduce the interval when laying wooden logs against the walls - where the furniture should be.

Basic requirements for the correct installation of a wooden floor along the logs

When installing a log for the floor in a wooden house with your own hands, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

make lags as stable as possible;
put the beam of lags horizontally, with the exception of the slope provided for by the architectural design;
log wood should be as dry as possible;
it is desirable to ensure microcirculation of the space under the floor.

Attention: If the logs are laid on an unstable base, such as the ground under the wooden floor on the ground floor of the house, it is recommended to build small brick columns 250x250. They are made of red ceramic bricks bonded with cement mortar. Such a base responds best to the natural moisture inside the floor.

Tip: It is important to provide a floor constructed on logs with sufficient sound insulation using a substrate or roofing material.

Laying an adjustable subfloor

Directly on a dry concrete screed or reinforced concrete slabs, wooden logs are being installed. They are laid strictly horizontally, observing an equal interval - about 50-60 cm, checking the level. Where necessary for leveling, under the logs additionally lay scraps of wood building materials and wedges from boards:

plywood scraps;
other wood building materials.

It is easy to assemble the floor base structure:

to screw in the bolt-racks in the logs, we make holes - for every 2 m of the length of the beam, 5-6 holes are enough;
laying the log is carried out at an equal interval;
we drill holes in advance, but so that the drill passes through the holes of the pillar bolts;
we observe the horizontal level and align;
we hammer in the stop of the dowel by 3.5 cm;
when the bolt-racks have protruding parts, we cut them off;
after the wooden logs are leveled, we lay wooden boards or other topcoat on this base.

We mount the logs to the concrete base with anchor bolts or dowels of sufficient length to break through the height of the bar by several centimeters. Adjustment will be provided by screws for fastening wooden logs, as well as plastic washers and racks on which they rest.

This installation technology has a lot of advantages - leveling the floor, laying communications, installing the "warm floor" system, laying the electrical cable, Internet, telephone, gas and water pipes, which it is desirable to hide under the floor.

Attention: All listed communications should not touch or intertwine with each other! It is important to provide access to the communication outlets.

How to insulate the floor along the lags?

Before putting logs in a wooden house, it is important to think in advance how the floors will be insulated from the inside. The properties of wood, due to environmental friendliness, naturalness and warmth, are widely used not only for aesthetic purposes, but also for home insulation. However, for all its attractiveness, in the cold season, the feet feel the coldness of the coating if the floor is not insulated.

Wooden floors are one of the oldest ways of arranging the lower surface of a dwelling. Additional warmth was provided by thick carpets based on wool yarn over planks. Today, various heaters from the inside are widely used, including the Nexans warm cable heating system.

Today it is recommended to insulate a wooden floor on logs with expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, isover, basalt wool and other modern materials, including spraying or roll materials. In free gaps, gaps or unfilled cells, they are filled with fragments and waste of insulation, but a small air gap is left on top.

Tip: If the device of wooden logs was required to level the old wooden floor, then additional insulation is not necessary. The coldest base for a wooden floor is the ground under the first floor or a concrete screed, on which expanded clay is often poured. The floors on the upper floors do not need to be insulated.

Laying lag on a concrete base

Logs are laid on a concrete base in two ways.

1. For leveling, a cement screed is made to lay logs on it. This is a reliable method, and the lathing of their timber lies flat, the floors do not deform, the lags on the screed are quickly mounted, providing a solid foundation around the entire perimeter of the room.

2. Sometimes a special lining is made between concrete and lags of different thicknesses to level them without adjustment. This is not the best method, although it is often used. However, when the floor is loaded, these pads will gradually crumble or deform, and the floors will creak and sag.

Before laying the lag on concrete, it is important to take several important steps:

complete a cement floor screed or use a self-levelling compound;
carry out work on waterproofing the base, since the soil under the first floor and concrete conduct moisture well - use a polyethylene substrate or film;
provide sound insulation with special gaskets that can dampen all vibration and impact noise, as well as everyday sounds in the interior space - use cork substrates or cheaper ones based on foamed polyethylene.

If the logs are made on the ground (on the 1st floor without a basement), then it is better to lay the insulation directly on the subfloor.

After completion of these works, the laying of the log is completed, the timber is joined if it is shorter than the distance between the walls. It is advisable to use a bar with a length of at least 2 m and dock it with ends. Make sure that the joining seams do not go in one line - they must be alternated.

Logs and laying the floor on them are best done from the corner of the room opposite the front door - for the convenience of working in an unoccupied space. We begin to lay the first row 10 mm from the wall, that is, with a small gap, attaching it to the lags with self-tapping screws. This gap is important for the expansion of wood, which reacts to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. A plinth will be laid on top of the floor along the edge, which will hide this gap. The construction of the floor along the logs is very durable and reliable, and such a construction is easy to repair in fragments.

We lay the boards on the logs

The board must be measured and cut so that the butt joints go right in the middle of the timber. Sheet materials are fastened with self-tapping screws "in the pot" so that they do not go beyond the floor surface. The recesses from the hats after the installation of the board are sealed with putty, which will not be visible after painting the floor.

Tip: It is advisable to alternate the board with a different arrangement of growth rings - up or down, joining each other tightly, after which they are thoroughly fixed on each lag. In the last rows, we fasten along the very edge so that the baseboard hides the hats.

Under the finishing flooring is often used:

decorative plywood;
tongue and groove board;
laminated chipboard;
Fiberboard for linoleum, carpet or expensive parquet.

Wooden floors for baths have been used since ancient times. And today, despite the presence of a large number of new technologies, this option is rightfully considered optimal. We will consider several solutions for arranging floors, talk about the technology of their construction, the advantages and "problem" sides.

Logs on the ground
Making wooden floors

Under the floor lags only soil
Logs for the floor in the log house

It means that under the floor there is nothing but soil. The lags themselves, of course, never lie on the ground or various bedding, they must be installed on concrete or brick columns.

Lags on brick pillars
Columns from blocks for lag

The distance between the posts is calculated taking into account the thickness of the log, floorboards and the maximum load on the floor. During the construction of baths, in most cases, no one makes such accurate calculations, and they are not needed. The average universal values are chosen, in our case we choose the thickness of the floorboards 30 mm and the logs 50 × 100 mm.

In this option, the distance between the lags should be within 1.5 meters, the distance between the posts under each lag should be within 1.6 ÷ 1.8 meters. A few centimeters in one direction or another do not make the weather, move the columns, taking into account the specific dimensions of the room.

The main thing is that the columns over the entire area should be evenly spaced.

Step lag depending on the thickness of the floorboards
Log dimensions at a step of 70 centimeters

How are floors with lags on the ground made?

Step 1. Take measurements of the room, determine the level of the floor. Construction documentation has its own characteristics. One of them is that the zero mark does not touch the ground, as some people think, but the floor level. Everything above the floor is indicated with a “+” sign in the drawings, everything below the floor level is indicated with a “-” sign. This means that the level of the lag should be indicated by -30 mm (below the thickness of the board). One more note on the documentation. Accuracy in millimeters is indicated in mechanical engineering, in construction, in most cases, dimensions are indicated in centimeters. We will gradually move on to the standard notation for the size of construction objects, for now we use the usual, but not quite correct notation.

Support posts for a log on the ground - diagram
Construction of wooden floors on columns

Step 2 Considering the distances, pre-calculate the installation locations of the posts and their number. The depth of the columns is approximately 20÷25 centimeters.

Mark up the columns. On the opposite walls of the room, using a laser or hydraulic level, beat off the zero mark (the level of the upper surface of the floorboards). He subtract 30 millimeters (board thickness) and 100 mm (log thickness). The level of the upper surface of the column is -13 centimeters. On the walls of the bath, make another mark at this height.

Dig small square holes of this size along the rope at the required distances; it is enough to make the depth of the holes with one bayonet of a shovel. Level the bottom, remove loose earth.

It is highly desirable to pour a sand cushion with a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 centimeters to compensate for swelling of the soil during freezing / thawing. At the bottom of each hole, pour a layer of sand and tamp it down. There is a desire to fill holes - make a concrete solution in the proportions of 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of crushed stone. During pouring, make sure that the surface is even and horizontal.

Step 3 Prepare all materials. There are several options for posts: pour concrete into the ground or use concrete blocks. Above the ground, you can use red brick or blocks, between the concrete base and the brick, it is imperative to waterproof with roofing material. It is better to take a brick, its small size facilitates the work of bringing the columns to one level of the horizon. Blocks have to be cut, it takes a long time, the cut is uneven.

Brick support column - appearance

Step 4 Making columns. We make the dimensions of the columns under the brick, the standard length of the bricks is 25 centimeters, we take two bricks. This means that the side of the square of the column will be 25 centimeters.

Are there multiple concrete blocks available? Great, the work will go faster and easier, lay out the columns of them.

The concrete has hardened - you can lay bricks. The thickness of a standard brick is only 6.5 centimeters, such dimensions will allow, by changing the thickness of the solution, to accurately set the surface of the columns to the required height. You need to pull new ropes, pull them along the height marks of the posts. Check the position of the bricks with a level, the posts should be in a vertical position. Using a cement-sand mortar, accurately adjust the surfaces of all posts along the thread.

Step 5 Logs are laid on the roofing material, it is better to put two layers of waterproofing.

The length of the log should be 3–4 centimeters shorter than the length of the room, this is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the tree. The logs must be fixed to the walls in a sliding way to prevent them from tipping over to the side, but allow them to move slightly in the longitudinal direction. It is better to do this with the help of factory standard metal connections, such are used during the arrangement of the floating truss system. If it is not possible to purchase such connections - no problem, make them yourself. To do this, on one side of the metal corner, the holes must be made oblong. This side will be fastened with screws to the logs, do not tighten the screws with great effort, the log should be able to slide. The second side of the metal corner is fixed to the wall of the bath.

First you need to fix two opposite logs, pull the ropes between them and lay all the rest along it. If there are problems with the level, use different linings. A height variation of up to two millimeters can be tolerated, these irregularities are eliminated during the final finishing of the floor coverings.

Step 6 Board flooring. Check the quality of the boards, it is better not to use materials with visible signs of marriage. If the boards, as a result of a violation of the production technology, have a curved side surface, you need to purchase ready-made or make your own special devices for tightening them.

For these purposes, you can use ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges. Prepare several wedges at once with different slope angles. Metal brackets are driven into the logs, an unnecessary board is placed between them, and wedges are driven in between the floorboard and it. The driving force must ensure that the surfaces are leveled. The boards are fixed to the joists in such a clamped position, after driving in all the nails, the wedges are removed and a new floorboard is inserted.

Bowrench - floorboard tightening tool

Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 ÷ 2 centimeters near the wall to compensate for linear expansions, the gap is then closed with a plinth. For flooring, you can use both ordinary and tongue-and-groove boards. If all operations were carried out correctly and the boards do not have deviations in thickness, the floor is ready for finishing painting or varnishing. If there is a noticeable difference in the height of individual boards, then they will have to be leveled with a special manual planer.

To improve the quality of the coating, the floor surface can be sanded.

Step 7 Nail the skirting boards around the perimeter of the room - the floor is ready for use.

Fixing wooden skirting boards

There are two more nuances of flooring in the steam room. The technology of laying the boards changes slightly, taking into account how the water will drain. If by gravity in the gap - do not pull the boards tightly, leave a gap of several millimeters between them.

If the water will go into the drainage system - you need to make a hole. The best option is to have an electric jigsaw. Drill a “starting” hole in the board with a drill, insert a jigsaw knife into it and carefully cut a hole of the desired size. No jigsaw - use a chisel and chisel. The work is a little more complicated, but it's not scary. Small irregularities of the hole made in this way will be closed with a decorative drain grate.

Lags over concrete screed

A more complex and expensive option for arranging floors. The logs are placed on a flat concrete screed, the floors can withstand significant loads.

Step 1. Mark the floor level, put marks on the wall. It is necessary to note both the position of the lag and the position of each layer of the cement base.

Step 2 Level the surface of the soil, remove the top fertile layer. On the ground, you need to pour a base of sand or gravel, tamp the base with special vibration mechanisms or manually.

An example of tamping a sand cushion

Step 3 Prepare concrete solution. During the production of concrete, we recommend giving two parts of sand and three parts of crushed stone for one part of cement. Such a concrete recipe can be considered universal, it is suitable for the manufacture of most architectural structures of buildings using concrete.

Step 4 Pour the concrete base. You need to fill in the lighthouses.

For beacons, you can use purchased metal or ordinary wooden slats. Reiki can not be pulled out of the solution, they do not affect the final performance. Level check the plane of the concrete. If there are significant deviations, make a screed on top with a cement-sand mortar. Do the screed in accordance with all the rules, do not allow unevenness and horizontal deviations.

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Video - Installation of beacons under the screed

Video - Screed on beacons

Step 5 Lay waterproofing between the concrete base and wooden joists.

If you do not plan to insulate the floor, then you can take 30 × 50 mm bars as a log and lay them flat. The large area of the lag stop completely eliminates their deflections, and the thickness is sufficient for a strong fixation of the boards. The length of the lag must take into account linear expansion due to changes in the relative humidity of wooden structures.

Video - How to put logs on a concrete floor

Step 6 The boards are laid in the same way as we described above using the example of their laying along the logs on the ground.

In cases of building baths, this method of flooring is used infrequently. Such floors can only be done in the rest room; the steam room or shower method is not suitable. Laminate flooring or soft floor coverings are laid on plywood. The thickness of the plywood is determined by the total loads, but in any case it should be more than one centimeter. Depending on the thickness of the plywood, the lag step is adjusted. Experienced builders advise joists to mount them at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters.

Laying plywood on joists

Plywood must be moisture resistant, ordinary cheap varieties are unsuitable.

Important. When marking the placement of the lag, it is tedious to take into account the dimensions of the plywood sheets.

The fact is that under all the joints there must be lags. It is better to first draw on paper the layout of plywood sheets; during calculations, both longitudinal and transverse joints should be taken into account. You can fix plywood to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws.

And, in addition, it has good heat-shielding characteristics, which makes it possible not to use additional insulation for floors. Do not forget to glue the joints of sheets of technical cork with adhesive tape. Otherwise, during the production of work, they will shift, which complicates the laying of the laminate and makes the work more "nervous".

Prices for plywood sheets

plywood sheets

Ways to insulate floors along the logs in the bath

Floor insulation along the lags - scheme

For insulation of pilaf, two types of heaters can be used. None of them are ideal. Why?

Let's start with mineral wool.

It has high performance in many performance indicators: it keeps heat very well, it is easy to work with it, the heat-insulating layer has no cracks. But cotton wool also has a drawback - the material quickly absorbs moisture and gives it away for a very long time. Prolonged exposure of wooden elements in direct contact with wet wool significantly accelerates the appearance of rot and fungi. Wooden structures must be impregnated with antiseptics, mechanical methods of steam and hydroprotection should be used. Such construction activities are quite expensive.

The second insulation is foam boards.

This material does not absorb moisture. The fact that there are comments on environmental friendliness to him is not critical for the premises in the bathhouse, no one is going to live in them. Styrofoam is not “ruined” by environmental friendliness and physical indicators, it is “ruined” by rodents.

None of the manufacturers warns that mice, for unknown reasons, really like this material, they gnaw it with great pleasure and at high speed. No one has yet been able to completely get rid of rodents in their summer cottage. We hope that this information will help you make the best decision when choosing a floor insulation material.

How to insulate floors with mineral wool

You can take both rolled and pressed material. The only remark is that if you take pressed mineral wool, then the dimensions of the sheets should be taken into account when laying the lag.

Nail thin slats or bars to the side planes of the log, a draft floor will lie on them. For its manufacture, you can take unedged boards, pieces of lumber, remnants of plywood or OSB sheets. Mineral wool must be reliably protected from the penetration of moisture from below, the ground under the bath will always have increased moisture levels.

For vapor protection, you can take any of the existing materials, they all have excellent performance characteristics.

Lay mineral wool on the subfloor carefully, do not leave gaps and gaps. The thickness of mineral wool cannot be greater than the height of the lag.

The upper surface of the insulation must be covered with hydroprotection and only after that begin to deal with the finishing flooring.

One of the options for floor insulation. The film is fastened with staples over basalt mineral wool

If there is an opportunity to replace mineral wool with glass wool, immediately take advantage of this chance. Glass wool is much cheaper than the "brand" material, and in terms of its physical and operational properties it is in no way inferior to it.

Glass wool - insulating material

One of the disadvantages of glass wool is considered to be its "thorniness". This is not a problem, work in working canvas gloves and nothing will “bite” you. For your information - fashionable mineral wool is made from mountain basalt, and this is the same glass, only with various impurities. Mineral wool "does not bite" only because the diameter of the glass fibers is much smaller, they break very easily and cannot damage the skin coverings. But there is much more fine glass dust from it, and this is harmful to the lungs.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

In this version, the work is somewhat simplified and cheaper. The draft floor is made in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation. But steam and hydroprotection can be omitted, this can significantly reduce the cost of work. The problem with rodents will have to be solved independently. Some suggest laying a galvanized metal mesh with small cells on the subfloor, the latter will eat enough that the rodents will not spoil the entire foam. How to proceed - you will have to decide for yourself.

Styrofoam is perfectly cut with a special carpenter's knife. When cutting, make the sheets a few millimeters larger. The sheet will easily shrink, due to this, the density of fit to the logs will increase significantly. With proper cutting, the amount of unproductive material waste is reduced, the work is done faster and better.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Video - How to cut foam with a knife

You should have engineering network diagrams even before starting the construction of floors, they must be taken into account when marking the lag locations and laying insulation. We will give some practical advice on the installation of engineering communications.

All connections must be made in the most reliable way and very carefully. This applies to both sewer pipes and electrical wiring.
Electrical cables must be laid in plastic or corrugated metal pipes without fail. In fact, we do not recommend laying the wiring under the floor, it is much more convenient to do the wiring along the walls. Moreover, they will still get off with clapboard or other materials, and under them you can easily hide all the networks.
For sewerage, it is necessary to provide for the most dangerous places in terms of blockages. Open pipelines in such places have special technological accesses; in case of clogging, pipes can be easily cleaned with their help. Most often, dirt accumulates in the knees and joints. Place them as close as possible to the walls of the premises. Moreover, the boards in such places should be parallel to the direction of the pipeline. This will make it possible, in case of unpleasant situations, to provide access to the problem area after dismantling just one or two boards.

Communications under the floor

During the installation of sewer pipelines, it is better to make a margin for throughput, to be safe from cases of clogging. The path of the pipe will be of a larger diameter, let their total length increase slightly. The main thing is to have confidence in the long-term and reliable operation of the entire system.

Video - Subfloor installation

Video - Floors on the ground. How to do it right

The construction using lags is one of the most popular ways of flooring both in individual and multi-apartment housing construction. Logs are a wooden support (sometimes metal or reinforced concrete) in the form of long wide beams, laid perpendicular to the ceiling. Logs can be installed on beams, support pillars or a monolithic slab.

Advantages and disadvantages

The construction of the floor using lags is a "pie" consisting of several layers, each of which carries its own functional load. First, logs are laid on the floors, a plank base is made, a vapor barrier membrane, insulation, a waterproofing film, and a finishing base are laid. Most often, now such structures are used in private village houses, but some time ago floors on logs were also installed in apartments (especially in panel houses built in 1960-1970).

Also, a wooden floor on the logs is made on the loggia or on the balcony if you want this room to be warm. In the bathroom or in the toilet, that is, in rooms where there is a high probability of leaks that can negatively affect wooden structures, most often they arrange a base in the form of a concrete screed.

The main advantages of the floor on the logs:

Material availability. Since logs are usually made of wood - a relatively inexpensive material, a device of this design will cost relatively inexpensively.
Environmental friendliness of the material. In a country house, most of us would like to be closer to nature, so wood is considered the best option to meet such needs.
The load on the floor or ground is evenly distributed.
This design makes it possible to save money, and not to perform any kind of concrete base.

The design using lags is universal, since both wooden and any other floor coverings can be laid on it.
The technology for arranging such a foundation is quite simple and available for doing on your own.
Wooden beams have a significantly lower weight compared to a concrete base. This is of no small importance when the floor is arranged on the second and higher floors. The floor on the logs will not greatly increase the load on the floor.
If the base has slopes, then with the help of special substrates for logs, this problem can be easily solved at no additional cost. In the case of a concrete screed, this would entail additional work and the purchase of materials, which would lead to a significant increase in the cost of the structure.

Convenient design for warming. That is why such a floor arrangement is most often used on the first floor of a country house. On the second and subsequent floors, it can also take place (only here the insulation layer is changed to soundproofing material).
Convenient design for the location of communications. In the floors along the logs, you can lay all the networks necessary for a private house: water supply, sewerage, electricity. At the same time, if necessary, they can be easily reached.
Ventilated underground. Since there is free space between the lags and the base, it turns out to be ventilated, which provides favorable microclimate conditions for the residents of the house.

The main disadvantage of floors using wooden logs is that they are not resistant to moisture.

But with proper installation, the organization of a sufficient level of ventilation in the technical underground, the use of high-quality vapor and waterproofing materials, this "minus" is easily minimized.

Floor device

Since the floor is the basis of the whole house, which is exposed to various factors (load, humidity, wear) more than other structural elements, the material from which it is made, there are certain requirements:

Humidity of wood - no more than 12%. How long the floor will last on wooden logs depends on humidity. Therefore, it is so important to comply with the norm indicated above.
Wood for mounting the floor on the logs should not have defects: chips, cracks. greenery. Otherwise, the floor will not last long and its quick repair is inevitable.
Antiseptic treatment of wooden elements with special compounds that prevent rotting and the appearance of fungus.
Fire treatment of wood.
Using high quality material. For the installation of floors on wooden logs, such types of wood as fir, pine, oak, larch, ash are most suitable.

The most suitable time for arranging the floor on the logs is the period at the end of the heating season, when the optimum level of humidity is created inside the room, and therefore the tree will absorb moisture in minimal quantities.

If the work is carried out in the summer, then it is better for them to choose a time when dry and warm weather lasts for at least two weeks.

The choice of a pie for the floor, arranged according to the logs, depends on:

base type. Floors can be laid on the ground, on a slab, on poles (with a ventilated underground);
the floor on which the installation of floors is carried out;
type of floor finish. It is likely that the owners can design a floor device with water or electric heating.

On a concrete base

The simplest version of the floor device on the logs. First, a waterproofing material is laid on the base (glassine, roofing material, roofing felt, polyethylene or a polymer membrane). Next, lay the lag bars and set them according to the level. Insulation is laid between them (expanded clay, sawdust, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool).

On the ground

This is a variant of the so-called cold floor. More suitable for warm climates or for flooring in country houses for summer living. Before starting work, the fertile soil layer is removed, the soil is compacted and covered with rubble and sand, then clay is poured and compacted. It is important to remember that the height of the poured layer should be three times the height of the lag.

The logs are treated with an antiseptic solution and sunk into the bedding with obligatory fastening to the foundation. After that, the floorboards are laid.

There is also an insulated version of the floor on the ground. For this, fertile soil is also removed and the soil is rammed. Next, cover the ground with a layer of waterproofing. Next, crushed stone is poured and poured with cement milk.

After the cement has set, the waterproofing is laid again and the laying of gypsum-fiber (GVL) or fibreboard (DFP) is started. Expanded clay is poured on top and a screed is made. Logs are installed on the screed, along which the floorboard is nailed.

With the underground

A ventilated underground is created when the logs are laid on posts (with a strip foundation) or made hanging (with pile-grillage foundations), when there is not too much distance between the support points. Underground at the same time can be cold or insulated. To insulate the subfloor, a non-absorbent insulation is laid on a layer of waterproofing material, for example, foam plastic, expanded clay, foamed polypropylene or foamed polyethylene.

At the same time, a distance of at least 50 mm must remain from the top level of the insulation to the beginning of the subfloor. The floor structure itself can have a double or single floor of boards, be insulated or not.

All possible options are shown in the figure below.

Materials and tools

To install the floor along the logs, depending on the type of base, the following materials and tools may be required:

A beam with a rectangular or square section, the dimensions of which depend on the number of support points, the size of the span and the distance between the lags.
Concrete blocks or bricks, waterproofing material (resin or roofing material) for arranging columns when constructing underground floors.
Antiseptic compositions and flame retardants for the treatment of wooden products.
Crushed stone, sand, clay when laying the floor on the ground.

Expanded clay, cement (concrete), GVL or fiberboard when installing a floor on the ground with insulation.
Insulation, the type of which is determined by the type of floor base.
Vapor barrier membrane, waterproofing film.
Cranial bar and unedged board for the device of the subfloor.
Brushes for applying antiseptics and flame retardants.

Devices for tightening and fastening the lag.
Massive tongue-and-groove edged board or plywood.
Level and roulette.
Jigsaw, screwdriver, wood saw, hammer.
Nails, screws.
Putty for leveling the floor before laying the floor covering.

Construction installation

Consider an example of installing a classic floor design with a ventilated subfloor.

In order for the floor in a private house to serve for a long time, it is necessary that it has a high-quality, reliable foundation. As a rule, the logs are laid on the support beams laid in the foundation. In their absence, the installation of the floor along the lags is supplemented by work on the construction of supporting pillars.

First you need to correctly determine the places where the supports for the logs will be placed, and calculate the number of columns based on the fact that the distance between them should be 0.7-1 m. The step between the supports depends on the size of the beam section for the log. The larger they are, the greater the distance between the supports.

To determine the location of the supports on the embedded beams, marks are made at a specified distance and threads are pulled along them. The same steps are done on the perpendicular side of the underground. The points of intersection of the threads will be the points of installation of the pillars.

Usually the pillars are made in the form of cubes. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that the higher the column, the more stable, and, therefore, the wider it should be. The columns for the logs are made of brick or concrete blocks. You can also use stable saw cuts of a large tree.

Roofing material is laid on the supports in two layers or another type of waterproofing. The space between the bedside tables is covered with slag, expanded clay, or simply covered with a thick plastic wrap. After the preparatory work described above, they begin laying the beams, which must be firmly fixed to the supports. Logs are laid directly on the beams.

In the event that the length of the log or beam is less than the length of the room, then they are joined together on the supporting bedside tables and fastened with self-tapping screws. Logs and beams are attached to the supports with special metal corners.

The next stage of installation is the device of the subfloor. To do this, along the lower edge of the log, a cranial bar is attached on both sides, on which a draft floor from an unedged board is then laid. It is necessary to lay a layer of wind and moisture protective membrane on it to prevent the insulation from getting wet. The membrane is overlapped with obligatory gluing of seams.

Further, a heater of the required thickness is laid on the membrane between the lags (depending on the climatic conditions of the region). As a heater, it is better to use mineral wool. Insulation plates are inserted so that there are no gaps anywhere. After laying the insulation, a distance of at least 2 cm must remain above it to ensure its ventilation.

A layer of waterproofing material is spread on top of the lag. The strips are overlapped, the seams are glued with special adhesive tape. Further, the waterproofing layer is reinforced with bars or slats, which are stuffed onto the logs. Staples can also be used for this purpose.

If it is planned to lay a special floor board with a ventilation chute, then there is no need to use slats or bars.

The finished floor can also be made of grooved solid board or plywood. The main thing is that the material provides an even base for the installation of the finishing floor covering.

How to do it yourself?

The technology of flooring on logs with a ventilated subfloor is quite simple. And to arrange such a floor on your own is quite within the power of an amateur who is inexperienced in the construction business to work with his hands. The main thing is to be patient, study the theory and correctly calculate the amount of materials.

First you need to clearly measure the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of required lags.

So, for example, if the length of the room is 10 m and it is supposed to lay the floors with a board 30 mm thick, then the distance between the lags should be no more than 0.5 m. A simple calculation gives us the value of the number of lags - 20 pieces. It should be taken into account that the distance from the wall to the log should be no more than 0.3 m, which means that the number of logs will have to be increased by one.

Next, you should purchase materials and stock up on tools. The general technology for installing a lag is approximately the same for different types of bases, the difference concerns only the features of the pie, depending on whether or not it is necessary to carry out floor insulation.

The lags begin to fasten from the wall. To attach the log to the beams, special corners are used, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Self-tapping screws are used for their fastening.

Given the thickness of the floor boards, a mark is made on the wall, and the end of the log is set and fixed along it. The same operation must be repeated at the other end, controlling the position of the beam by level. When installing logs near the walls, they should not be completely fixed immediately. It will be possible to finally pull them off when the lag level is exactly set. After fixing the extreme bars, they move on to the intermediate ones.

Stretching the cord between the wall joists can help align the intermediate joists. If the floors are insulated, it is better if the distance between the lags corresponds to the size of the insulation. After installing the subfloor under the insulation, you must not forget to lay a vapor barrier, and above it - waterproofing.

Then proceed to the installation of the final floor. The best option for flooring is grooved board. Such a floor can be used immediately as a top coat if treated appropriately.

Before laying the board, it is necessary to adapt it to the microclimate of the room where it will play the role of a finishing floor for three days. After that, you can start working with it. When laying the board, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm wide between it and the walls, which will also help level floor deformations during seasonal wood swelling.

The finished floor is laid perpendicular to the direction of laying the rough base. The first row is placed with a spike towards the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws in such a way that the baseboard closes them near the wall. The next rows are inserted into the groove of the previous row and secured with self-tapping screws.

If the wooden floor will be used as a finish, then it is first cycled, then the first varnish layer is applied and polished. Then you need to rally and putty all the cracks with a special compound for wood. Now the floor can be painted or varnished or waxed.

Warming

Insulation of the floor, arranged along the logs, can be performed with different heaters: sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool:

The main advantages of mineral wool are good sound and heat insulation properties, incombustibility, resistance to flame and chemicals.
Expanded polystyrene is the most common insulation due to a good set of performance characteristics. The material practically does not conduct heat, vapor-tight, has a long service life.
Penoplex - a material made from extruded polystyrene foam, does not conduct heat, and therefore retains it well, is not subject to rotting and mold.

What material to choose for thermal insulation of floor structures is up to the owner of the house, depending on the requirements that he imposes on him, such as the floor base and financial capabilities.

To properly mount the base for the floor on the logs, It is very useful to get acquainted with the opinion and advice of professionals in the construction business:

The cross-sections of the beam for the log should be selected based on its width and length. A section is a rectangle with a width that is a multiple of one and a half and a length that is a multiple of two. In the event that the logs are supposed to be mounted on wooden floor beams, the cross section of the beam is selected based on the step with which it is planned to be installed. Here there is a direct dependence of the cross section on the distance between the bars. As the distance increases, the thickness of the lag also increases.
When choosing a timber, do not forget to take into account the presence of at least a 2-centimeter ventilation gap, that is, you need to keep in mind that when laying insulation between the bottom of the finished floor and the top layer of thermal insulation, there should be free space for evaporation of the resulting condensate. Otherwise, moisture will begin to be absorbed into the insulation (especially if it is hygroscopic), which will lead to a loss of its performance properties. And when laying the timber on a soil base, it is necessary to take into account the height of the roll attached to the cranial bar

It is better to choose the dimensions of the bars for the lag device a little more than necessary.
If a whole timber for the device of the desired size cannot be found, you can connect two boards with the required section. Then the lags will be installed on their edge.
To save money when installing the floor on the ground, you can reduce the span of the log by installing posts to support the beam with a smaller section. Supports are best made of baked bricks and installed at a distance of 1.2 m from each other. It is also possible to use silicate bricks, but only if the likelihood of groundwater rising is minimal.

When the beams are located at a sufficient distance from each other, it is possible to lay the logs in two layers - perpendicular to each other.
In order to achieve a fairly even base during the installation of the log, they are not laid on top of the floor beams, but attached to their side parts. Thus, the need to level the height of the lag by lining under them is eliminated.
Some time ago, the lag was fastened with long nails. But progress does not stand still, and for these purposes, special fasteners of various types have been developed today, which demonstrate a greater degree of reliability than nails. Fasteners for beams can be in the form of a corner or the letter "P". These are quite convenient fasteners that are fixed to the beam with self-tapping screws, and to the base - with dowels. In this case, the fasteners enter the beam to a depth of 3-5 cm.

You will see all the detailed information on how to properly lay a wooden floor on logs in the video below.

For the construction of wooden floors, the finishing flooring of which is mounted on logs, there are a lot of technological variations. The choice of the optimal scheme depends on climatic and geological conditions, on the financial capabilities of the owners. The type of foundation, the operational specifics of a building or a separate room affect the method of installing a floor with lags. However, no matter what principle the wooden floor is constructed along the logs, the construction of the structure is based on classical techniques and options, which will be discussed.

The main types of floors with lags

Logs are a rather capacious concept, including not only a well-known wooden beam with a rectangular cross section. The technical definition of lag applies to:

plates created from logs with a cross section in the thinnest part of at least 160 mm;
logs hewn on both sides with cut dimensions of at least 150 mm;
a board paired in two, mounted on an edge, with a width of 100 mm or more with a thickness of 25 mm or more;
directly rectangular beam, the size of which determines the upcoming load. The dimensional minimum is considered to be 100 × 150 mm with a lag installation step of 60 cm;
slats used for dry leveling and for insulation;
an I-beam metal channel, which is used extremely rarely in the case of floor construction on reinforced concrete beams;
long plastic products included in the package of factory systems for forming a dry screed.

Regardless of the material from which the logs are made, they have one function: they serve as the basis for future subflooring and finishing. They can rely on a mortgage crown, on support pillars, on wooden beams, concrete slabs, or on pre-compacted, prepared soil.

Do you need a basement or not?

Depending on the geological features of the site chosen for construction, it is determined whether the space between the soil and the lag system is required or can be abandoned in order to reduce costs and labor costs.

The dictator of the mandatory presence or permission for the absence of a subfloor is the indication of the seasonal level of groundwater:

with a low occurrence of hot water, simple, extremely cheap, but rather cold floors without an underfloor are arranged. Lags in this embodiment are based on a soil base. This type is ideal for summer cottage construction, for the construction of baths for seasonal use. In the middle lane and southern regions, it can be used if the building for permanent use has a high base;
with a high occurrence of GW, which pose a serious threat to wood, the log system must be raised above the ground surface. Under the installation of the lag frame system, it will be necessary to build pillar supports made of brick, monolithic concrete or foam concrete blocks.

GW level values \u200b\u200bmust be clarified at the local weather service before designing a bath.

Classic floor schemes with lags

The presence of an underground space divides all existing schemes into two classes: floors with and without an underground. Structures without a subfloor are considered cold, but there are ways to insulate them. Underfloor floors have significantly more varieties. They can be cold and thermally insulated. In insulated floors, the thermal insulation layer can be located between the joists or between the supports.

The simplest cold floor

This is a structure erected on dry ground. To arrange it:

completely remove the soil and vegetation layer;
after removing all the "consequences" of the growth of organic matter, the natural soil must be carefully compacted;
the area freed from plant residues is covered with sifted sand, which can be replaced by crushed stone or construction waste with sand aggregate;
the filled pillow is rammed again. A home-made tool for soil compaction and backfilling can be built from a heavy deck by nailing a transverse bar to its upper plane as a handle;
then comes a new layer of backfill of calcined sand, slag or dense clay. This layer will become the environment and the basis for installing a frame of wooden logs, which means that it should not create conditions for wood decay. The power of the backfill should be two to three times the thickness of the beam chosen for the arrangement or the plate made from half the log;

Note. If it is planned to use slag to create a pillow, you need to buy and bring it to the site a year before the start of work. The slag needs to be "cured out".

logs are “immersed” into the last layer of the backfill, the upper line of which should be flush with the plane of the base being constructed. Lumber before immersion in the ground must be treated with an antiseptic.

Laying the lag is done in increments depending on the width of the floorboards. Since the arrangement of wooden floors in baths is mainly completed with a 37 mm grooved board, the optimal distance between the lags will be 60 cm. Too wide boards are undesirable for arranging a bath, because the wood will deform in a humid environment, and wide boards will make warping especially noticeable and inconvenient for movement.

Important. The annual rings of adjacent floorboards must be directed in different directions, due to which the adjacent elements will spontaneously prevent deformation.

Insulated version of the floor on the ground

The bottom of a kind of pit for the subsequent backfilling of a multilayer pillow is rammed and covered with insulation, which is suitable for bags of lime or cement mixture, laid in two rows.
Then crushed stone is covered with a layer of 8 cm. It also needs to be compacted and poured with lime milk.
Roofing material is laid on top.
Then fiberboard 3 cm thick.
A layer of expanded clay of a small or medium fraction of about 8 cm.

At the end, the multilayer insulating base for the floor is poured with lean concrete, which is dominated by sand. After the mortar has set, the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor being constructed is covered with sand and then they act according to the above scheme.

Cold floor type with insulated underground

Initially, standard preparation of the base is carried out. The difference is that calcined sand is not backfilled on the prepared surface, but support pillars are built from solid bricks or foam concrete blocks. Each support column is a separate structure with its own foundation, for the pouring of which it is necessary to carry out preliminary marking.

Please note: the boards of the finishing flooring are mounted “in a cross” with the lags.

The best option for laying plank floorboards is:

parallel direction to the light flux in the rest room;
parallel direction to a long wall in the washing department and in the steam room;
perpendicular to the course of movement in the dressing room.

If an additional crate is not arranged above the lags, the lags must be laid across the direction of the board. All distances must be measured, planned and calculated, focusing on the central axes of the columns and the log. Marks must be left on the structural element on which the ends of the lag are to be leaned: on the roofing material covering the grillage, on the beam of the lower trim.

The first lag from the wall must be positioned so that there is a gap of 3-20 cm between its side surface and the wall, and in the same way from the opposite side. That is, an independent builder has the opportunity to slightly move the planned rows of columns when breaking down. The foundation for the supports can be poured entirely under the entire row or under each of the columns separately. It should be noted that the foundation for the column should protrude at least 1 cm, preferably 5 cm along the entire perimeter beyond the contour of the support. This means that the formwork for pouring with a strip for a number of supports must be constructed so that the foundation strip is 2-10 cm wider and longer than the row. The foundation for a separate support should be just as wider and longer.

Advice. According to the axis marked on the harness, it is necessary to set aside half the width of the future foundation in both directions and hammer into the pegs designed on the ground. Between the pegs you need to pull the cord and repeat all the same steps in a perpendicular direction. To fill the foundation with a strip, it is enough to break only the corners of the future local foundation.

The sequence of actions for pouring a concrete base is extremely simple:

soil compaction;
formwork device with a side height of 10 cm;
laying on the bottom of the reinforcing mesh;
pouring concrete itself, waiting for solidification within 3 days;
then the foundation is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt for waterproofing and supports are constructed.

Note. The upper plane of the supports should be located at the same level. The alignment of the row is carried out by applying a cement mortar. If a layer of more than 5 cm is required for leveling, a reinforcing mesh is “embedded” in the cement.

On top of the leveled support, a waterproofing layer should again go, on which you need to put a 3 cm thick wooden pad impregnated with an antiseptic. It is on it that the logs will be laid, by the way, also treated with an antiseptic, and on top of the boardwalk.

The underground space of cold floors is covered with expanded clay or slag, leaving 5 cm of void on top. For ventilation of the subfloor, a technological gap is left around the perimeter. The baseboards must be equipped with holes for ventilation of the subfloor. According to building codes, two ventilation holes are laid for 15 m² of area, formed in the plinth of opposite walls. The total area of the holes is 20-30 cm². They are covered from mice with a thin mesh of non-ferrous metal.

Underfloor heating with cold underfloor

Fundamentally, this technology for arranging wooden floors differs from the previous scheme only in that the insulation is not located in the subfield, but in a frame built from lags.

To lay the insulation, a rail is nailed to the lower edge of the beam on both sides, which will support the cranial floor.
The cranial flooring is covered with polyethylene, mineral wool is laid on it or expanded clay is poured.
Between the insulation and the top line of the logs leave a ventilation gap.
Covered with vapor barrier material.
Laying a wooden floor.

Another difference is the method of organizing ventilation of underfloor heating with an uninsulated subfloor. For ventilation, in this case, vent holes are made in the basement, every 5 m. In the frosty period, the vents are closed.

The described types of structures are a kind of basis for developing your own wooden floor project. All other types are modernized variations on the theme of the basic classics. Depending on the upcoming load and climatic features, components are simply changed or added.

Today, there are many ways to install flooring in a house or apartment, but the long-known and proven method of laying it on logs is most often used - bars of various shapes and sizes installed under the finished floor. The secret of such enduring popularity lies in the numerous advantages that this floor structure has:

good thermal insulation;
high soundproofing characteristics;
uniform load distribution over the entire surface;
the ability to hide various communications in the space under the floor;
ease of assembly (installation, if you have certain skills, you can do it yourself).

An important argument for the application of this method is its relatively low cost.

Characteristics and technical features of the lag

Lags are called beams, on which the flooring of the finishing floor boards is carried out. They are laid perpendicular to the direction of the floorboards. Logs can be made of polymeric materials, metal or reinforced concrete, but wooden bars are most often used. The reason for such a wide use of lumber is not only its affordable price. It is easier to assemble a wooden structure with your own hands or disassemble it if an urgent replacement of one or more elements is required.

For the arrangement of the floor covering, wooden beams are mainly used. It is possible to reduce the cost of work if hewn logs are laid instead of beams, the price of which is somewhat lower. But this option has one drawback: the logs must be aged for at least a year in a well-ventilated area with low humidity.

Important! In order for the structure to be as stable as possible, the logs must be made from a single log without any joints.

Installation of the floor on logs can be performed both in a private house and in an apartment, as there is a technology for laying on the ground, on reinforced concrete and on massive wooden floor beams.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of boards needed for the floor, it is enough to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms in the house or apartment. It is much more difficult to correctly calculate the dimensions of the lag and the required number of them. When making calculations, experts recommend taking into account the following: the type of finishing material (boards, plywood), its thickness, the base to which the logs will be attached (to the ground or concrete or wood).

So, if plywood is used for laying the finished floor, the distance between the bars should be minimal. Under boards with a thickness of 20 mm, logs are recommended to be placed in increments of no more than 30 cm, with a board thickness of 24 mm - no more than 40 cm, and so on. If the thickness of the board is 50 mm, the distance between the bars can reach 1 meter.

The dimensions of the cross-section of the bars largely depend on the type of base. When performing work in a house on an earthen base, the distance between the posts or supports is taken into account. Accordingly, the larger it is, the thicker the lags should be.

For your information! When performing work on flooring in an apartment where the base is predominantly a reinforced concrete base, the cross-sectional dimensions are selected depending on the thickness of the insulation and the height of the ceilings.

For those who decide to do the flooring with their own hands, but do not have the experience of calculations, it is worth asking for help from specialists. They will help to correctly calculate the number and dimensions of the minimum lag section.

Installation of the floor on the logs on a concrete base

This type of work is considered the simplest, so many do it with their own hands. There are two ways by which you can align all the bars on the same level. In the first case, it is necessary to check the base, and, if necessary, eliminate the differences with the help of an additional screed. Faster installation can be achieved by adjusting the height of the beams with wooden or plywood wedges.

Work is carried out in the following sequence:

waterproofing (roofing felt, glassine, polyethylene) should be laid and leveled on the concrete surface;
in the apartment it is recommended to additionally lay soundproofing material;
on the surface prepared in this way, a log is laid, while the distance between adjacent bars depends on the material of the finishing floor (boards, plywood);
the bars should be leveled in height with wedges and fixed;
between them it is necessary to lay thermal insulation, which is covered with waterproofing material;
The final step is the flooring of the wooden floor.

Despite the relative simplicity, you should not try to lay the floors in the apartment with your own hands without some experience. It is better to invite professionals to do this work.

You can see all the installation steps in the following video:

Wooden floors on logs on the ground

The flooring device on the logs on the ground is used in private homes. This is the least expensive design, but it is not easy to install it yourself.

First, preliminary work is carried out in the house: the top layer of soil is removed along with the plant roots and debris in it. The remaining soil is recommended to be leveled.

The fastening of the bars in this case is carried out to small posts. You can build them like this:

First, recesses are dug, the dimensions of which are at least 40x40, and the depth is 50 cm l (more on this in the following video:
The solution is poured so that the foundation protrudes 5 cm above the soil surface;
A roofing material must be laid on top of the foundation, and then a brick column is laid out, the size and height of which depends on the width of the bars.

After the laying of the bars is completed, the horizontal should be checked. Deflections can be leveled with wedges, and the excess can be removed with a planer.

In the case when the floors on the logs are raised above the ground in the house, there is the possibility of additional insulation. To do this, bars are nailed to the lags for laying the subfloor. On top of it, it is necessary to lay and level the insulation, leaving at least 5 cm of free space until the final coating. In order for the replacement of the floors on the logs to be needed as late as possible, the ventilation of the subfloor should be done correctly. Completes the installation of flooring boards.

Wooden floors on logs installed on floor beams

Those who plan to install the flooring in the house on wooden floor beams with their own hands should take into account one important point: you can use them as a log when the step length does not exceed 30-35 cm, as in this video:

If the beams are laid less often, the finishing coating is performed on the logs installed on top. At the same time, they are laid perpendicular to the beams, and fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws.

After finishing work, it is necessary to check the level of the entire base and, if necessary, level it with wedges and a planer. Completes all laying of the final coating.

Finished flooring

Regardless of which technology was used in the process of work, the final stage of installing a wooden floor along the logs is the finishing flooring. Mostly boards or plywood are used for this.

There are several recommendations, guided by which you can properly lay the flooring. Start work from the far corner of the room. Boards or plywood are laid in such a way that a compensation gap of at least 1 cm remains between the wall and the coating. When laying each subsequent row, the material is shifted so that 4 seams do not converge at one point.

Plywood and boards are cut so that the seam falls in the middle of the base beam. Fastening must be carried out to all bars without gaps. In boards and plywood sheets, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for fasteners, so you can avoid splitting them. Holes for pipes should be made with a small allowance (8-10 mm). After the installation is completed, a plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

Finishing the finished floor is to eliminate differences and roughness. Plywood and boards are sanded with coarse sandpaper and polished with a fine-grained abrasive.

Quite often, plywood is used in cases where it is necessary to replace or level the old floor covering. See the next video for how to do this.

The arrangement of the floor on the logs requires certain skills and experience. Their absence when doing do-it-yourself work can prevent you from installing the floor covering correctly and efficiently. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact professional builders. Wood flooring, properly installed, looks great and has a long service life.