How to build a warm floor in a private house. Do-it-yourself water-heated floor: device and installation of a warm water floor, step-by-step instructions

Agree that it is insanely nice to wake up in the morning and get up barefoot on a warm floor. Especially when it was snowing outside the window at that time. You go to make yourself a cup of aromatic coffee, sit in front of the window and look at the snow-white landscapes. Want also? Then read the article below and find out how to make a warm floor in your private home.

Types of underfloor heating

If you already have a floor heating system, skip this section and go to the next one. The rest of the information written here will come in handy. There are two main types of underfloor heating:

Water;
Electric

Both have their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, it is worth dwelling separately on each of them.

From the name you can guess that the floor is heated with water. Indeed, pipes are laid under the floor covering through which hot water circulates. It is worth noting that for private houses, this system is a more popular electrical counterpart. However, let's see why.

So, the advantages of a water floor over an electric counterpart and a conventional radiator are:

Comfort. The water floor does not dry out the air at all, and the heat is distributed evenly from floor to ceiling.
Partial independence from electricity. In the event of a sudden power outage, the floor will continue to emit heat for another one or two days. Despite the fact that the circulation of water stops and the heating elements are turned off, the liquid cools down for a very long time.
Radiators are traumatic and can leave a serious burn. With an underfloor heating system, this is absolutely impossible.
Freedom of space. All heating components are located under the floor covering. Accordingly, the radiator can be sent to the trash (or closet if you are too economical) and free up additional space.
Compatible with other heaters. Merzlyaks will especially like this item. Underfloor heating can be used in conjunction with other heating methods. It is worth noting that this also applies to electric floors.

An impressive list, isn't it? However, like everything that surrounds us, a water heated floor has its drawbacks, which should be known in person.

It has already been said above that the floors cool for a long time. However, there is also back side medals. They also take a long time to heat up. To dial optimal temperature they need at least a day. Accordingly, there is no point in installing the system in a country house where no one lives permanently.
The next flaw is a bit off topic. But if the article is read by the owners of apartments in a multi-storey building, the following information will come in handy. So, it is forbidden to install a water floor in such housing. This is due to the fact that this increases the level of hydraulic resistance.
Difficult installation, compared with electronic counterparts. More on this a bit later.
If a hole is formed in the heating pipe, it is unlikely that it will be possible to identify a specific place. Therefore, you will have to disassemble the entire floor covering.

After that, you can draw any conclusions. However, the final choice should be made after the description of the electric floors.

Unlike the system described above, there are 3 types of electric underfloor heating:

Heating cable. A simple system, but requires a screed to be installed over it.
Special mats. The same cable, only on a special grid. It costs more, but there is no need to carry out a complete repair and make a screed.
Heating film (infrared heating). Installed directly under the floor covering and consumes less electricity. However, in rooms with large area similar system less efficient.

Now consider the main advantages of such floors:

Such a heating system does not dry the air and creates a favorable microclimate even for people with lung disease.
The room begins to heat up in a matter of minutes after switching on.
Maintaining and changing the temperature is quite easy. There is a special thermostat for this. In the case of water floors, it is also present, however, it will take a much longer period of time to change the temperature than here.

Now the disadvantages, or rather the disadvantage. Yes, it is only one, but for some it is very significant. It consists in increased energy consumption. For 1 sq.m. consumes approximately 110-150 watts. However, with the help of temperature controllers, this figure can be reduced to 70-100 watts.

Perhaps, from the real minuses - that's all. Of course, it can be noted that many talk about harmful radiation from heating mats. However, in reality, this is not supported by anything.

So, all the pros and cons of each system are disclosed. Now you can make a choice, go to the store and read the following sections.

Have you chosen a water floor? Wonderful. However, it is worth remembering that for its installation it will be necessary to make a concrete screed. Can it be done in a wooden house? Absolutely not. However, there is a way out and it will be described a little later.

Installation in a brick and concrete house
To begin, consider classic version installation. So, before laying pipes, an additional series of measures should be carried out.

First, the main surface of the floor is leveled and cleaned of debris. Next, the coating is covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this, dense polyethylene is suitable, the seams of which are glued with double-sided tape.
Probably, everyone wants the system to have a high heat transfer and go only up, that is, to heat the room. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation is laid out on polyethylene (foil side up). For more comfortable styling, it is recommended to stay on more rigid materials.
Then a damper tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. It will protect the future screed from squeezing as much as possible during drying.
After that, you can already begin to lay out the pipes. This should be done strictly according to the instructions so that unexpected troubles do not arise in the future.
Then follows the connection to the distributor. Before pouring the screed, the system must be checked for possible malfunctions and holes in the pipes.
And finally, the final stage. The floor is poured with a concrete screed, carefully leveled and left to dry completely.

Installation in a wooden house
Basically, there are few differences. The main thing is that instead of a screed, special modular systems are used on which pipes are attached. And on top there is a thin protective layer and the floor covering is laid out.

Installation of this system is carried out after the final leveling of the base of the floor and its thorough cleaning of dust and debris. Further, everything is quite similar to previous version. The base is covered with a layer of heat and waterproofing. Styrofoam 5-10 cm thick with the addition of a heat-reflecting foil layer is perfect as thermal insulation.

After that, the heating elements are installed. For each type, the installation features are somewhat different, you can see them on the instructions attached to the product. Do not forget that it is desirable to install the system only in those places in the room where there will be no furniture.

Then laid out reinforced screed, followed by tile adhesive. Finally, the floor covering is installed. Do not forget that you need to carry out a thermostat from the cable to the wall. Cable underfloor heating is poured cement screed and left for 30 days. Only a month later, you can start operating the system. However, you need to start with low temperatures, gradually raising it. If the film method of floor heating was chosen, we do without a screed. The final floor covering is installed directly on the heating elements.

There are several ways to heat the floor and the house as a whole. Which one to choose is up to you. Based on the stated pros and cons of each of them, you will surely make right choice. And based on the instructions for the product and this article, the floor will be laid correctly and will last for many years.

Video: underfloor heating - pros and cons

Underfloor heating in a private house is a justified solution: heating the lower layer of air significantly increases the level of comfort. When I was selecting materials for laying such floors in my house, I “shoveled” a huge amount of information. I will share the knowledge gained, as well as my experience in the design and installation of underfloor heating, with you.

Advantages and disadvantages of the solution

Heated flooring is popular today. Under the floor, either pipes with hot water or electric heating elements. Thanks to this, we get the opportunity to walk on a warm surface, and not on cold tiles / laminate / linoleum.

Advantages:

Increasing the level of comfort. This plus is the most important: even in the cold season, you can walk around the house barefoot or in thin socks. At the same time, no discomfort will not - rather, on the contrary.

Economic heating. Heat from the heating elements under the floor is distributed naturally- upwards. As a result, less energy is required to comfortably heat the room. In a private house with independent heating the savings will be obvious.

Possibility to adjust the temperature. The operation of the warm floor can be adjusted so that the degree of heating depends on the air temperature in the room. This will allow us to maintain the microclimate at the right level - not too cold, not too hot.
Relatively simple installation. Almost everyone can lay an electric heated floor with their own hands - in terms of labor intensity, this process cannot be compared with installation heating system. With the water variety, it is a little more difficult, but even here you can do without the help of specialists.

Minuses:

Additional spending. Everything is logical here: the installation of a separate system requires the purchase of materials and a large amount of work. You can save only on the wages of masters.
Raising the floor level. Depending on the type of heaters used, the level will rise by 7-12 cm. In private homes with high ceilings, this is rarely a problem, but thresholds will most likely have to be redone.

Not all floor coverings are suitable. Only materials with good thermal conductivity can be laid over the heated floor, preferably specially designed for use with underfloor heating. The use of unsuitable coatings will reduce the efficiency of the system. Moreover, in the case of electric floors there is a risk of their failure from overheating caused by poor heat dissipation.

Despite these shortcomings, the installation of heated floors in a private house is fully justified. They can be used both as the main source of heat and as additional heating.

Foundation preparation

Installation of the floor in a private house begins with the preparation of a rough coating, which will be the basis for the floor. It must be strong, smooth and at the same time have low thermal conductivity. The last point is very important: good thermal insulation foundations will allow us to reduce heat loss, and almost all the energy generated by a warm floor will penetrate into the room.

The table provides instructions for constructing a base insulated with expanded clay:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Dismantling. We dismantle the old floor covering, exposing the concrete or soil base. It may also be necessary to remove old beams or a log system.
	Markup. Via laser level a line is beaten off along the perimeter of the walls, to which we will raise the base. When using expanded clay as thermal insulation, it is necessary to lay as large a gap as possible - so the insulation will be more effective.
	Bedding. We lay a layer of sand about 10 cm thick on the base of the future floor. We compact the sand bedding using a manual or electric rammer.
	Waterproofing. Lay a layer on top of the sand bed waterproofing material. The cheapest option is dense polyethylene, but you can also purchase a specialized membrane.
	Installation of beacons. We lay supports on the waterproofing (in our case, halves of bricks), on which we place beacon profiles. Lighthouses are carefully leveled.
	Thermal insulation laying. In the space between the lighthouses we fall asleep expanded clay. To increase the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer, we mix expanded clay granules with a liquid cement-sand mortar, obtaining improvised expanded clay concrete.
	Screed. We fill the screed over the expanded clay, raising the floor level to the design mark. We level the screed with the rule according to the beacons.
	final alignment. After the initial polymerization of the screed, we remove the beacons from the solution, and then close up the holes. We rub the seams with a trowel and dry the floor for at least 14 days.

Expanded clay is not the only material that can be used to insulate the base under a heated floor. If there is no need to reconstruct the coating, then on top of the old concrete screed you can lay:

Boards based on polystyrene(Penoplex and analogues). Insulation sheets are stacked close to each other, and the gaps between them are filled mounting foam. To increase rigidity over polystyrene boards usually a reinforcing mesh is mounted, and the entire structure is attached to the main foundation with anchors.
Roll foil material. The basis is polyethylene foam, which is covered with thin aluminum foil on one or both sides. The material is laid with a metallized layer inside the room, and at the joints it is fastened with aluminum tape. This option is ideal for electric floors.

Mats for a water floor. Such parts are made of a polymer with low thermal conductivity and are equipped with protrusions on the front surface. The presence of these protrusions allows you to lay pipes of the heating system between them. So we not only insulate the floor, but also facilitate our installation.

Type 1. Water floors

Water floor elements

The most common type of underfloor heating for a private house are water structures. In fact, such a floor is a system of pipes with hot water, hidden in the floor screed. Underfloor heating pipes are connected either to a common heating system or to a separate heating device.

To create such a system, we will need:

Illustration	Structural element
	Pipes for the heating system. When laying heating circuits, either metal-plastic models or products made of cross-linked polyethylene are used. Both varieties are characterized by good heat transfer and low temperature deformation.
	Underfloor heating manifold. This is a device that allows you to optimize piping: for each heating circuit, the collector must have a separate pair of outlets. The cheapest collectors are supplied only with shut-off ball valves. Devices that have a separate control valve for each circuit are more efficient, allowing you to adjust the temperature of each loop. The disadvantage of such collectors is a higher price.
	Circulation pump. Allows for circulation hot water in system. It may be included in the design of the water heater, but if you are supplying a warm floor from a simple boiler, then the pump must be installed separately.
	Damper tape. It is installed along the perimeter of the room to compensate for the expansion of the screed when the pipes laid in it are heated. Most often made from foamed polymers.

In addition to the basic elements, we may also need pipe fastening systems. If laying is carried out on mats, then additional fasteners are not needed. If you have to install on a screed or a layer of insulation, then it is advisable to purchase brackets with locks and anchoring.

Pipe Laying Basics

For efficient heating of the floor covering, pipes are laid with a certain step. This value is usually in the range from 35 to 15 cm: the stronger the heating we need, the denser we lay the pipes.

Too sparse laying can lead to the effect of "striped floor". When moving, uneven heating of its sections will be felt, which will cause some discomfort.

The total length of the pipe for space heating is calculated by the formula:

D=S/M*k, where:

D- desired pipe length, m;
S- area of the room, m2;
M- laying step, m;
k- safety factor, from 1.1 to 1.4.

On average, pipe consumption is from 3.5 to 1.5 m per 1 square meter area.

There are also several pipe layout schemes. They differ in the mutual arrangement of direct and reverse circuits, and hence in the efficiency of heat redistribution:

For small rooms usually choose the simplest "snake". small size the room does not allow the temperature in the pipes to drop significantly.
For medium sized rooms the best choice would be "double snake" or "snail". In this case, the close placement of direct and reverse circuits ensures uniform heating of the floor.
For the largest rooms a rational solution would be to install several separate circuits.

Water floor installation technology

Installation of a water floor in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. The collector is connected to a source of hot water and placed either in a wall-mounted collector cabinet or in a wall niche closed by a hatch.

The dimensions of the collectors usually do not exceed 120 mm, so it is quite possible to make such a niche in a sufficiently thick wall.

After that, the laying of the floor itself is carried out:

Illustration	Laying stage
	Installation of damper tape. Along the perimeter of the room or a separate area on which the heating circuit will be laid, we glue the damper tape. In addition to compensating for deformations, it will provide additional protection against heat loss.
	Rebar laying. If this has not been done before, we lay on top of the heat-insulating layer on the base reinforcing mesh. We fix the mesh with anchors, connect individual rolls with knitting wire.
	Laying and fixing pipes. We unwind the heating pipe from the bay, making sure that it does not twist along the axis. We lay out the pipe on the base according to the diagram and fix it. For fixing, we use either brackets or simple plastic clamps (cheap and convenient to attach to the fittings).
	Connecting to a collector. The pipe going to the collector is connected to one of the outlets (fitting is required), the other end of the pipe is connected to the second outlet of the pair. After that, the circuit is filled with water. We maintain the system under pressure for at least 48 hours to detect leaks.
	Screed filling. On top of the laid pipes (water cannot be drained!) We lay cement-sand screed. We level the floor surface, after which we dry the solution for 28 days. Until the solution dries completely, it is strongly not recommended to supply hot water to the system.

After the screed has hardened and the flooring has been laid, floor heating can be used normally. If you turn on the system earlier, then there is a high probability of cracking in concrete as a result of the expansion of pipes under heating.

Type 2. Electric underfloor heating

Principle of operation and main types

If floor heating is needed in a separate room, then instead of water, you can make an electric floor heating. Typically, these systems are used as additional heating and connected to a thermostat. Thanks to this, the heating elements turn on automatically as soon as the temperature drops below a certain point.

Underfloor heating works just fine. It is based on heating elements - plates, rods or cables. As current passes through the high resistance elements, they heat up, transferring most of the heat to the flooring.

There are three types of warm electric floors.

Illustration	Type of underfloor heating
	Film. The most common type, the main pole of which is a small thickness. The heating element consists of thin carbon plates connected by conductive paths and insulated on both sides with a thin polymer film.
	Cable. The basis is a cable with high resistance, which heats up when current passes. The advantage of the cable floor is the possibility of laying the cable with different pitches - this way you can adjust the degree of heating.
	Rod. Heating elements - carbon rods, which are connected by wires into a single system. Such floors are powerful and reliable, but their price is quite high.

Laying film electric floor technology

I consider the film floor to be the easiest variety to install. Therefore, I will give it as an example of styling:

Illustration	Stage of installation of electric floor heating
	Preparation of the heat-reflecting layer. It is highly desirable to lay a foil substrate under the film floor. Thanks to it, we will not heat a concrete slab or screed: all the heat will be reflected from the foil into the room.
	Open the films. It is desirable to lay the film in long fragments - this way you will have to mount fewer wires. It is necessary to cut the material according to special marks so as not to damage the heating elements.
	Material layout. We lay the heating sheets on the prepared base and level it. They can be glued with adhesive tape, but it is desirable to leave the edges free - for ease of connection.
	Connecting contacts. Focusing on the marking of the material, we open the film opposite the conductive path. We attach to it a contact clip-crocodile.
	Contact isolation. We carefully isolate all contacts and cut points. Instead of standard insulating tape, it is desirable to use special butyl plates, which are usually included in the floor kit. It is enough just to squeeze them tightly around the contact.
	Connecting the thermostat and checking. We connect the wires from the heating film to the thermostat, focusing on conventions. We turn on the system for a few minutes, checking the quality of the insulation and the degree of heating of the panels.
	Floor covering. If everything is in order, we mount the thermostat on the wall and lay laminate or linoleum on top of the heating film.

Conclusion

You have seen that laying a warm water floor and electric film heating is quite within the reach of even novice craftsmen. Based on the tips and videos in this article, you can choose materials for such systems and mount them on your own. Any questions you may have are answered in the comments.

Today, many owners of private houses install a warm water floor for additional or main heating. They have a lot of advantages: they evenly heat the room, increase comfort, do not require additional energy costs, since they work from one boiler with radiators. In this article, we will consider the question of how to install a warm floor in a private house with a water heater, even without experience in carrying out such work.

Preparation and calculation of materials

Such responsible work should begin with the planning and preparation of all necessary materials. Strictly speaking, accurate calculations can only be carried out by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a particular room. But for individual needs, as a rule, approximate calculations are used that fully satisfy the requirements.

To begin with, you should draw a plan for the location of pipes for underfloor heating in a private house. The clearest and most understandable thing will be a diagram drawn on a sheet in a cage, on which the system can be calculated based on the quadrature of the room. Each cell will correspond to one step, that is, the distance between the pipes of the system. For a temperate zone:

With sufficiently good insulation of windows and the house, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be made approximately 15-20 cm.
If the walls are well insulated - 10-15 cm.
IN spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, a variable step is taken: near the cold walls, the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is not too large, and as it approaches warm walls, it increases.

The choice of flooring for underfloor heating:

A serious mistake is made by those who are going to lay a thick wooden floor or parquet on a warm water floor. Wood is a poor conductor of heat, which is why it will greatly hinder the heating of the room. The efficiency of such heating may turn out to be even worse than that of a radiator, in turn, heating costs are quite large.
The ideal flooring for underfloor heating is ceramic, stone or porcelain tiles. When heated, it will hold heat wonderfully, and this is the best option for a bathroom or kitchen. In rooms where a warm floor is made, children love to play very much, and just walking barefoot is much more pleasant than on wooden parquet.
A slightly worse option for flooring, more appropriate for a bedroom or guest room, is laminate or linoleum. Such materials transmit heat well without lowering the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate must be selected minimum thickness, and linoleum - without a substrate with insulation.

Important! When heated, many artificial materials can release harmful fumes into the air. That is why floor coverings with chemical additives must be marked by the manufacturer of the product on the possibility of their use in residential premises on warm floors.

Underfloor heating base

If we are talking about housing with concrete floors, then the best option for the base for a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house - this is a concrete screed with water heating.

Important! The same method is applied to the first floors (basement) of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses where there are wooden floors, this option is not suitable. wooden beams the floors simply cannot withstand the heavy weight of the concrete screed, no matter how thin it is. In this case, a lightweight version of underfloor heating is used, which we will talk about a little later.

Do-it-yourself installation of underfloor heating begins with careful preparation the base, which should be even, without any depressions and protrusions. The maximum allowable difference can be 5 mm.

Important! If the depth of surface defects is 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and then level a thin layer of fine gravel (granite screenings) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. It will be necessary to lay a film on top of the leveling layer and, in the process of laying thermal insulation, walk on wooden boards. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will serve as a source of irregularities.

Schemes for laying water heated floors

The most common schemes for laying water-heated floors are a spiral and a snail:

The snail evenly heats the entire floor area.
But with a spiral, you can provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first pipe branches through which hot water will be supplied are laid there.

According to a pre-prepared plan, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

Important! For underfloor heating, use only whole piece pipes. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, then several heating circuits should be planned. Moreover, the length of the pipe of each of these circuits should not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, too much pressure will be required, which is necessary for normal speed hot water flow. In terms of area, this approximately corresponds to 15 square meters.

Do-it-yourself warm water floor in a private house is best made from a metal-plastic pipe, the diameter of which is 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a XLPE pipe. It is undesirable to use pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, because a large diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, which will negatively affect the efficiency of the heating system.

As a rule, the pipe consumption per 1 square meter of area is:

10 meters at a step of 10 cm.
6.75 meters at a step of 15 cm.

Choice of insulation and fasteners

So that the heat does not go down, a layer of dense foam must be laid on the base.

Important! The density of the insulation should be chosen at least 25, and preferably 35 kg / m3. Lighter types of foam will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

The optimal thickness of the insulation is 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if higher protection against cold is required, when the floor below is poorly or unheated, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be increased to 10 cm.

To reduce heat loss, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen consisting of a metallized film over the insulation. It could be:

Reflective screen made of foam rubber, which is glued behind the radiators.
Penofol (metallized polyethylene foam).
Plain food grade aluminum foil.

The metallized layer quickly becomes unusable due to the aggressive effects of concrete, so the screen itself also needs to be protected. This protective layer will polyethylene film, which is often used for greenhouses in greenhouses. The thickness of this film should be approximately 75-100 microns.

Moreover, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its solidification. Pieces of the film should be overlapped, and the joints should be carefully glued with adhesive tape.

Fastening connections for pipes

Fasteners for pipes are installed on top of the thermal insulation. Their purpose is to fix adjacent pipe branches and place it on the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary scheme. Fasteners hold the pipe until the concrete screed acquires the required degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house and ensures the correct location of the pipe in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can serve as special metal strips, welded metal mesh, plastic brackets that fix the pipe to the foam base:

Metal strips are used with an increased thickness of the concrete pad. They slightly raise the pipe in relation to the thermal insulation, due to which it is a little closer to the top surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the curly notches of the slats.
The metal mesh not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the concrete cushion layer. The pipe is fixed to the grid using pieces of wire or plastic clamps. In this case, the consumption of fasteners is 2 pieces per 1 linear meter. In places of rounding, additional fasteners can be used.
Plastic brackets are mounted manually. They pin the pipe to the foam as it is laid. Semi-industrial warm floors are made using a special stapler. However, its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

IN Lately manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer one more enough convenient solution- special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. As a rule, the surface of such sheets is the intersection of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are laid.

The surface of such sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed, and an additional waterproofing film is not needed for it. Having a special thermal cutter at your disposal, you can make grooves in polystyrene foam yourself. However, at least minimal experience is required to carry out such work.

Important! Metal-plastic pipes are supplied in bays. In the process of laying, the bay is rolled out along the trajectory of the pipe. It is impossible to pull pipes from a lying bay, as this will cause it to twist and can lead to heating of the inner layers.

Preparation and pouring of concrete

It is possible to fill the pipes with concrete when installing a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house in stages only after they are completely laid, correctly connected to the manifolds, and also filled with coolant at a pressure of 4 bar.

Important! Before pouring, it is necessary to withstand the pipe under pressure for at least a couple of days. If a leak is found, it must be repaired immediately. If the system itself has not yet been installed, then instead of water, air should be pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure should be fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after the injection, the pressure may decrease slightly due to the straightening of the pipes. During the pouring and curing of the concrete, the pressure is monitored by a connected pressure gauge.

In order to compensate for thermal expansion, a damper tape is attached along the walls. The temperature expansion of the concrete pillow should be 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature by 40 degrees. In the event that the heating is only 20 degrees, then the expansion will accordingly be half as much. It is necessary to multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

As a rule, for ordinary houses, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and when doorway. Also, the damper tape plays the role of thermal insulation of the warm floor and walls. In this way, cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat leakage are eliminated.

In some cases, expansion joints are additionally made:

If the length of any side of the room is more than 8 meters.
The floor area exceeds 30 square meters.
The length and width of the room differ by more than two times.
The shape of the room has several curves.

For an extended warm floor, an expansion joint with a damper tape is arranged every ten meters. So that the movement of concrete pillows in these places does not break through the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation or a large diameter pipe should be put on it. The entry of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m from each side.

If, according to the layout plan, there is an accumulation of warm pipes in one place, for example, near the collector, then a heat insulator sleeve must be put on part of the pipes. This will make it possible to avoid local overheating, as well as better retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

Concreting of a warm water floor

If concrete for pouring a warm floor is not brought in, but is done on site, then the following components will be required:

Washed river sand - 1.9 in. h.
Cement brand 300 (400) - 1 weight part.
Crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 in. h.

Important! This is a composition of heavy concrete, the weight of which is 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. m of finished material.

But many refuse sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its low thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are often used, the composition of which is as follows:

Cement - 1 bucket.
Granite crushed stone - 5-20 mm - 2 buckets.
Water - 7 liters (if the solution is very thick, you can add another 1 liter).
Small granite screenings - 4 buckets.

Granite conducts heat remarkably, and such concrete has a significantly lower thermal resistance. In addition, it is worth introducing a reinforcing fiber into the composition, which is a small plastic fiber.

Important! The composition of any self-leveling floor must necessarily include a plasticizer. Its amount depends on the brand and purpose of this drug. Moreover, the plasticizer should not be any, but intended specifically for a warm floor.

General fill rules:

If the pipe is fixed on strips or brackets, then a reinforcing mesh must be laid on top of it. And the height of the concrete screed should be chosen 5-10 cm.
At the same time, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer can lead to cracking, and too thick a pad of concrete will increase heat transfer losses.
With the right choice of concrete and an acceptable temperature, it begins to set after 4 hours. For support normal humidity it must be covered with a waterproof film, and in the process of drying the surface - water it with water.
Already after 12 hours, the hardened concrete will be able to withstand the weight of one person. However, its full maturation occurs no earlier than 28 days later. All this time, it is necessary to take care of its humidity, as well as to maintain a sufficiently high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after the specified time can be carried out the first thermal tests such gender.

Important! Both during the first test of a warm water floor with your own hands in a private house, and subsequently, you cannot quickly heat it up to high temperatures.

Flooring

Finished, completely dry concrete base can be glued ceramic tiles or some others floor views coatings. In this case, glue that is intended for underfloor heating should be used.

Important! If the tile falls just on the expansion joint, then one part of it should be glued, and the other part should be put on silicone glue. The silicone dampens the thermal movements of the base, so that the tile will not crack from overvoltage.

Lightweight version of underfloor heating for wooden floors

As mentioned above, for wooden floors it is necessary to do light warm floor without concrete pad. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly, depending on the design of the ceiling and the condition of the old floor:

To prevent heat from going down, insulation must be laid under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor lags, and then it is better to use mineral wool. Or it can be laid on an old draft floor - here you will already need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg / m3.

Important! To prevent the formation of condensate, it is worth laying a vapor barrier membrane under the mineral wool, and filling the first draft floor on top of the logs.

As well as for a concrete floor, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of penofol or foil on the insulation. At the same time, all seams and joints must be carefully taped with adhesive tape.
It is necessary to lay logs directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. In this case, there should be gaps of approximately 2 cm between the boards for laying the pipe.

Important! The same gaps should be provided at the ends of the floor boards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can cause the boards to break.

In order for the heat to be more evenly distributed over the floor, the pipe must be laid not just in grooves, but in specially designed metal gutters that are designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat well over the entire surface and evenly warms up top coat. Advice on choosing it was given a little higher - it can be a laminate that can work with heating, or hard polymer coating. Thick parquet for underfloor heating is the least suitable.

Important! Compared to concrete underfloor heating, lightweight construction is much faster and cheaper. Another advantage is the possibility of repair work pipes in the event of an accident. Pipe problems in concrete floor can only be eliminated by its complete replacement. But the wooden floor also has a drawback - this is a significantly lower thermal power.

A well-arranged step-by-step do-it-yourself water-heated floor in a private house is another step towards convenient and comfortable living conditions for the whole family. But, even if for some reason you cannot perform these works on your own and are forced to invite specialists, the knowledge gained will help you take an active part in this process and control the quality of the assembled system.

Very popular with homeowners floor systems heating. The best solution for creating heat in a private house may be the installation of a water floor. However, to make the right choice and install it indoors - difficult task, since this process has its own nuances and requires some knowledge.

Features: pros and cons

A water heated floor is a construction of a heating circuit consisting of pipes. They are connected to the main heating system.

The undoubted advantages of such a device are:

Rational use of energy, which avoids significant waste of material resources. When installing such a system, cash costs for electricity are almost halved.
Creating coziness and comfort in the home.
Uniform distribution heat throughout the room.

Enough high level safety due to the fact that the coolant is located under the floor, so there is no risk of burns or injury.
Undeniable compatibility with finishing materials. For example, the device is easily suitable for surfaces such as tile, linoleum or laminate. If materials with chemical additives are used, this should be indicated on the packaging. It should be checked whether the manufacturer allows the installation of such products in residential premises.
Connection variability. So, you can connect directly to the main heating system, or you can create a separate structure heat supply.

However, the warm water floor system has some disadvantages:

To obtain a low heating temperature, you need to have a mixer that works in conjunction with a water pump.
Often leads to a decrease in pressure in the central heating.
It takes a lot of time for installation due to the need to create a multi-layer installation.
In the event of leakage, it is necessary to open the entire coating, which entails its possible damage.
A warm water floor will not cope with heating the entire room, so there must be a boiler to heat the entire space.

In general, such a design has more advantages and will certainly become a savior in winter time of the year. It is not recommended to turn off the system in winter.

Wiring diagrams

According to the quality of the material, the following types of laying a warm water floor in a country cottage, in the country are distinguished:

Concrete. Here, a screed is used with the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation, fixing pipes with a reinforcing mesh. As a fixing, tiles, stone or parquet boards are used as a coating.
Polystyrene. This is a simple installation option using special polystyrene plates, which, after pressing, receive a convex shape. Pipes are placed inside.
Wooden floors.

For the last wiring diagram simple enough. For the device of this method of heating in private wooden houses, there are several methods for laying a water structure on a plank surface. Plastic pipes are installed under the floor. They provide hot water.

The maximum heating temperature of such surfaces is no more than 30 degrees, otherwise the drying of the wooden coating will begin.

Hot water is constantly circulating. It is important to remember that the indoor heating system is not related to floor heating. The heating process is carried out by boilers of any kind. The best option would be if the boiler consists of two heating circuits. That is, one of them is designed to create heat in the premises itself, and the other - for the underfloor heating system.

This design will save money, since the air begins to rise from the bottom up, and the convectors create heat when cold comes from the windows. The water floor heating system, which is based on a gas boiler, is as follows:

Natural gas supply pipe.
Pipe for water supply.
Heating system supply line in two directions.
Collector.
Two directions for a water heated floor.

Arrangement technology

Installation of the heating system is possible only after necessary training grounds. This is done to create the perfect floor by restoring or replacing it. This stage includes important points:

Removal of the old coating and dismantling of the rough base.
Removal of all types of insulation.
Cleaning the surface from contamination.
Checking structures for stability by inspection. If worn parts of the beams are found, then they must be cut out and replaced with a piece of the same size.
The use of substances to protect against fungus and mold.

It is important to pay attention to the evenness of the base, the presence of protrusions. Too big differences should not be allowed. If surface defects are more than 2 cm, then it is necessary to level by pouring fine gravel. Such the way is fine for laying a warm water floor under wooden floors.

Installation of a light water floor can be done both with a screed, and by means of a dry floor under a tile or a tree. It's important to know that it is better to start mounting the floors in the room where the boiler is located. One section for installation should not have an area of more than 40 m2. Pipes for installation have the ability to deform, so it will not be difficult to give the heating elements any shape. Experts believe that the most effective way of laying in a spiral.

Both plastic and metal-plastic pipes can be used. Often used by professionals polypropylene devices, characterized by stability, tightness.

It is important that these structures are suitable for installation in heating systems. Otherwise, the use of unsuitable devices may result in an inefficient heating circuit. It is important to study the markings on the pipe.

As for the boiler, there is a choice. You can purchase not only gas, but electric or solid fuel. It all depends on the location of the house. The need for a collector system is explained by the fact that it is important for ensuring the operation of the entire water floor and maintaining the set temperature.

Not all boilers have a built-in circulation pump. In such cases, you need to purchase it separately. because without it the water cycle is impossible. It is better to choose a pump that has three speeds. The rest of the details for arranging a warm water floor system are purchased based on the individual characteristics of each device.

How to make heating with your own hands?

Surface preparation by leveling it

This can be done using a concrete screed or special compounds that are sold in hardware stores. Further, it is recommended to process the base with a primer. Do not forget about the insulation, which must be laid on the prepared surface.

Laying thermal insulation

This process is not difficult, just fix the joints with mounting tape. Of the materials for insulation, there are such as polystyrene foam, polypropylene insulation. best thickness 5 cm is considered. In some cases, when laying on the ground or with increased protection from the cold, a thickness of up to 10 cm is allowed.

Pipe laying

A reinforcing mesh is laid out on the base, providing complete bonding. The pipes themselves can be installed in the form of a snake or a spiral. It all depends on the personal wishes of the owner of the premises, however, the masters believe that the spiral installation scheme is preferable. With the first installation option, uneven heating of the floor is possible. Many values are taken into account to calculate the installation width. These include wall thickness, pipe diameter and other factors. Optimal length pipe is 100 m, as the water cools, moving away from the beginning of circulation.

Heating materials can be the most common water pipes, but their service life will be much shorter special devices. There are subtleties of soldering pipes, which consist in the fact that the connection between them must be carried out using adapters. If metal-plastic pipes are installed, metal surface must be removed within 3 cm from the beginning of the pipe.

The pipe is attached to the thermal insulation using fasteners. They are necessary to facilitate the installation of the floor and to ensure the correct placement of the pipe. Fasteners can be plastic or metal elements.

It is important to know that only a single piece of pipe should be used for underfloor heating. Wherein maximum length each circuit must reach 100 m. Otherwise, too high pressure will have to be used for the optimal heat transfer rate.

Collector preparation and connection

Installation of this device is carried out according to the instructions indicated on the package. In each case, the installation process will be different due to the fact that there are many different models on the market today. Correct location collector box must provide the same water pressure in all circuits.

Boiler installation

Often during the connection of the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem is created, which is that the water temperature is many times higher than that required for the operation of the water floor. Therefore, it is important to make sure that water with a lower temperature enters the pipes. This is possible by diluting the water that has already cooled down, which flows in the opposite direction.

The heating structure must go through an assembly process consisting of the following scheme:

Control valve installation.
Fixing the circulation pump.
Collector installation.
Ensuring the supply of water at a low temperature.
Pipe connection to the boiler.

If a screed is used, then the process takes place under pressure. Screed mixes can be cement-sand, concrete or dry.

When using cement and sand, it is best to purchase ready-made products, which include a special plasticizer. This element allows you to make the solution plastic, and also increases the level of heating due to thermal conductivity. For a concrete composition, it is recommended to purchase cement of a special brand M-300.

Dry materials include sand, various additives to expand heat, and to reduce air bubbles. During the last stage of work, measures must be taken in time to prevent cracks. There are two options here:

When the room is divided into two halves, each of them is poured separately using a special tape. Further, all existing gaps are removed by puttying.

After the screed dries, the perimeter of the room is cut into sectors using a grinder, and the resulting seams are sealed with silicone. Then they must be puttied.

In a wooden floor construction, the whole process is much simpler, since it does not require the installation of a screed. It is enough just to cover with boards a special box where the heating pipes are placed. An important feature is an correct placement pipes. The entire structure is placed at a level below the boiler. This will promote free heating and cycling over the plastic heating elements.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on the issue of laying a water-heated floor without a screed. There are many advantages here, one of which is the low weight of the structure, as well as the absence of the need to wait for the cement to dry. This is the heating system that saves you a lot of money.. The installation of such a design requires the use of a base where the pipe contours will be laid. It can be wooden or polystyrene.

There should also be strips of metal that evenly distribute heat. It is possible to equip underfloor heating both under tiles and under a laminate, however, in all cases, you need to take care of good heat transfer.

To date, the installation system using gypsum-fiber sheets is used. They are placed as a base, fill the gaps between the contours of the pipes, serve top layer for the chosen coverage. This design is easy to disassemble, if necessary, repair. In addition, gypsum fiber sheets are excellent conductors of heat.

Other possible option to create a water floor without a screed is the use of aluminum sheets, which already have sections for laying the pipe contour. But the masters note that gypsum-fiber elements are much better in quality. The advantages of such materials are as follows:

Price availability.
A simple processing scheme.
Security.

You should not refuse the opportunity to install warm water floors with your own hands, since this system will greatly facilitate life by creating comfortable conditions living and save money on the purchase of energy.

Properly installed heat in a home can be done without expensive specialist services. It is enough to know the necessary subtleties of this process and choose the right equipment for heating.

To make a water heated floor with your own hands in a private house is within the power of any home master. It will take patience, careful calculations, the purchase of materials and the missing tool. But in the end you will get a system that allows you to adjust the level of heating throughout the floor. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, the rules for selecting material, installation, installation and connection schemes.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Throwing aside the complexity of installation, the masters agree that underfloor heating in a private house is one of the most efficient heating systems. Compared to a radiator system, a water floor in a wooden house can provide significant savings in heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional pluses:

Low temperature operation. This means that the air in the room will not dry out, it will not be stuffy.
There is no overheating of the air mass.
Underfloor heating meets the requirements environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
There is no negative impact on humans, since most of the energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
The device of water heated floors in a private house with ceilings from 3 m high saves up to 30%.
The installation system is hidden - this simplifies the processes of interior decoration.
Security. When installing a warm floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors - the entire system consists of pipelines, ordinary water is used as a coolant.

Disadvantages of a water floor:

The laboriousness of work. Representing a system of several layers of material, the design requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation scheme.
Leakage risk. To search for a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire installation.
Involuntary weighting design features buildings. Layer-by-layer laying out of materials increases the mass of floors by 10-15%, therefore, equipping a warm floor with your own hands on the 2nd and higher floors, you need to calculate the allowable load on the floor.

It is extremely important, equipping the heating system on the floor, to perform high-quality insulation of the building. In this case, having made a water-heated floor with your own hands, you will not have to supplement the heating with convectors.

Design

Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing will interfere with the implementation of ideas. What you need to pay attention to:

Room height. The thickness of the entire underfloor heating system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. You will have to estimate the price of a custom-made door or the possibility of increasing the doorway in height.
Window location/orientation. If they face the windy side, north / west, the power of the system should be increased.
Estimate bearing capacity floor beams. The weight of the entire system with a concrete screed significantly increases the load.

It is not necessary to refuse heating, you can consider the option of a flat (dry) water floor. The system consists of pipelines with a carrier, laid out on top of a boardwalk. In this case, you do not need to mount the screed, just install it on top of the subfloor wooden frame, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in insulation (mineral wool sheets, expanded clay, sawdust), lay boards on top, hide pipes with coolant in the seams between them. From above, the raised floor can be veneered with finishing.

Schema Design

The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, specifications equipment and materials. To make a calculation, indicators and data are determined:

floor area;
room height;
material of walls, ceilings;
type of thermal insulation;
type of finish flooring.

You also need to consider the desired t ° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the limiting t ° mode for rooms for various purposes:

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Room type	t° mode (maximum)
Living spaces and spaces where people spend time standing	21-27⁰
Sedentary rooms, offices	29⁰
Hallways, corridors, halls	30⁰
Bathrooms (pools)	30-33⁰
Premises for active pastime	17-19⁰
Places where time of stay is limited	37⁰
Edge zones of any premises	35⁰

After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up, which contains the following data:

Mounting points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
The distance between the elements, t° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the lengths of all circuits.
Power data for heating each individual room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.

Also in the scheme, you should specify data on setting up automation.

In order for the installation of the water floor to be successful, when drawing up a diagram, heed the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the calculation. For pipes of 16 mm - up to 100 m, for pipes of 20 mm - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the underfloor heating system. If the scheme for installing a warm water floor provides for several circuits, it is easier to make them the same length with a maximum difference of 15 m. The pipe laying step should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with severe winters, a step of 10 cm is recommended. The spacing of the location affects the costs of the pipe. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe per m² of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be required, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m / m². When laying the circuit in the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the installation areas of plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture. One circuit covers the room no more than 40 m², the maximum length of the side of the circuit is up to 8 m. Thus, in the scheme of arranging floors in a private house, it is important to consider:

pipeline laying step limits;
limits and contour size;
heat-insulating material in the areas of decreasing pitch.

The step always decreases in the area of openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout scheme.

Carrying out calculations

The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit is: the active heating area (sq. M) is divided by the calculation step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. To get more accurate calculations, it is better to contact specialists, but this requires an investment of money, so we make a water-heated floor in the house in stages with our own hands.

Tip: “Thermostats are mounted to adjust the degree of heating of the coolant. The maximum gradation on the devices is 55 °.

Detailed calculation scheme:

Distance from the walls from 30 cm.
The determination of the number of loops is calculated from the length of the pipe per loop. When dividing the area of the room by the step of the calculation, add 10% to the turns. Formula: L \u003d S / N * 1.1. Designation L - pipe length, S - room area, N - laying step. Thus, on an area of 40 m², when laying out a pipe with a step of 15 cm, the desired definition is the sum of the lengths of all contours - 266 m.
When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end - to the supply device, the second - to the opposite), multiply the final indicator by 2, and you will get the required pipe length from the connection point to the collector.
Pipeline material: for polyethylene with a diameter of 18 mm, the length is up to 120 m, for metal-plastic - no more than 125 m. Masters do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal hydraulic resistance and load on the coolant.
With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m / m² are required; a step of 25 cm - 3 m / m²; at 20 cm - 5 m / m²; at 15 cm - 6.7 m / m²; in 10 cm - 10 m / m².
If the area is from 40 m², the laying scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, it is easier to ensure the same heating over the entire area.

Tip: "The length of the circuit is counted from the exit point from the collector, and not in the entrance area to the room where the system is mounted."

And now about how to calculate the possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of the heat transfer of all components and structures of the house, the average value of precipitation, t °, air direction and other things. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can focus on:

In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat losses are 40 W / m².
In non-old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the figure is 70-80 W / m².
In buildings of the old type with wooden windows, without insulation, heat losses reach 100 W / m² or more.

Tip: "If the heat loss of the building is more than 100 W / m², the installation of a water-heated floor becomes impractical."

Choice of accessories

To make a system of underfloor heating in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, they make a water floor from a gas boiler. It is economically advantageous and technologically easier. The power indicator of the gas boiler should exceed the sum of all the capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for laying, but disadvantageous due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The device will ensure the normal movement of the carrier through the pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it can handle the load if the area of the house does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is this:

copper - durable, long service life, but high cost;
metal-plastic - durable, bending, inexpensive and weigh little;
polypropylene - low price, high limiting heating, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
PEX - cross-linked polyethylene pipe - a reliable option if the fastening is rigid and the pitch is minimal.

The calculated cross-section of pipes for dry water heated floors with your own hands is considered to be a size of up to 20 mm. Consumption rate per 1 m² (step of 200 mm) is approximately 5-6 m.p. Insulation. Here is the choice:

foil polyethylene is suitable for minimum floor thickness;
expanded polystyrene in ready-made mats with protrusions for laying pipes in increments of 50 * 50 mm;
mineral wool - cheap, but impractical due to the ability to absorb moisture from the solution.

Tip: "A layer of thermal insulation over basement a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required t ° of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the insulation layer.

Heat meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings where a warm water floor is laid. Collector cabinet. Needed for the installation of control elements and docking of the pipe contours with the heat supply line. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes are laid, but reinforcement may not be applied. You will also need components for arranging the screed:

screed mortar (cement, sand, water);
damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
fasteners for fixing the pipe.

The number of elements will be prompted by a pre-compiled scheme of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If planning work performed correctly, there will be no errors. But the scheme itself should be saved so that in case of a leak, you can quickly remember all the points of installation and fastening.

Work performance technology

To make a water floor, the installation technology provides for a phased work algorithm:

collector installation;
preparation of the floor with the laying of damper tape, insulation;
laying out the contour;
connection with leak test;
crimping;
coupler.

After the completion of the preparatory stages, the system starts up, then turns off and you can complete the arrangement of the floors with finishing.

Mounting and installation of manifold cabinet

When installing a water heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip the stages of work. Step by step instructions for warm floors implies a detailed consideration of the technology, even a novice master will not have any difficulties. Collector cabinet - a device where there is:

collector;
pump;
air valve;
drain outlet.

The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the general configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. It is not possible to fulfill the condition, we put the collector next to the longest pipe loop.

Important! When installing the underfloor heating system in the collector installation area, it is necessary to provide a zone for bending the pipeline. Pipes are laid only from below to guarantee the normal movement of the coolant. Installing a shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary for preventive maintenance and structural repair.

Substrate preparation and insulation

To make underfloor heating in a private house, you need to preparatory work based:

clean the base from debris;
remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
lay the selected thermal insulation material;
waterproofing (dense film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
damper tape along the walls, which will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

An equal thickness of underfloor heating is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.

Contour device in different ways

Thinking over how to make a water heated floor, you will have to take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The layout of the pipes depends on this:

Snail. The outline of underfloor heating from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out along the perimeter of the room, going to the center with the layout through the row. Such a scheme provides a quick return flow of the coolant and increases the uniformity of heating the area. Masters prefer the "snail" in rooms with a complex shape, where it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of 40 m².
Snake or loops. Such laying of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along outer wall(one), then waves with a return back. Good layout for small spaces.
Meander or double snake. The combined layout scheme implies a parallel arrangement of contours. This option organizes the movement of the coolant with different t °, compensating for heat transfer.

Important! The laying of pipes for a water-heated floor always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.

To facilitate the task of laying out, a beginner should draw markings on the floor. It is not allowed to install the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections - such a design will not withstand a long heating season.

How to make a warm floor:

The installation of the floor begins with the connection to the supply manifold. You can retreat only 7 cm from the wall, but it is worth considering the small layout step at the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
As soon as the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be fixed with a clamp. Dowels will do if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor, tying the contour from the pipe to it; this eliminates the expansion of materials when heat is applied.

Tip: “The ribbed polystyrene substrate, laid out under the contours of the system, will increase the thermal insulation performance and help you mount the warm floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired step.”

Collector connection

It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after laying out the circuit, is connected to the return manifold. In order not to be mistaken, you should first read the instructions for the unit.

Crimping

This is the name of the process of hydraulic testing, which is necessary to check the quality of the calculation. If we make a warm floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the laying order and other nuances. Crimping is the launch of the coolant into the system under the maximum high pressure. The pressure level should exceed the calculated minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:

Half an hour after launch, a decrease in the allowable pressure is possible by 10%, no more.
The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% of the original designation.
The t° of the carrier must remain unchanged.

The total check time is 24 hours. It is better to give up to 2 days for the stage to make sure that the step-by-step installation of a water-heated floor with your own hands is done correctly, the floors warm up evenly and there are no leaks, loose fasteners and other defects.

Screed

The installation instructions for a warm water floor involve the implementation of a screed from cement-sand mixture, which conducts heat well or classic concrete. For the manufacture of concrete, they take grade cement from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.

Screed thickness 3-7 mm. You need to fill in the finished solution on the circuits filled with coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during crimping. The drying time of concrete is up to 28-30 days, the period for the finished mixture must be viewed on the package.

Tip: "If you need to make underfloor heating in a private house with an area of 40 m², it is necessary to provide expansion joints."

First start

The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and drive the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t ° indicator is set to + 25 ° С, then it increases every day by 10 ° С. With a gradual increase in t°, the system gains the required heating parameter in 2 days.

fine finish

Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it will not be difficult to decorate them. The warm floor is laid under the laminate, carpet, solid wood, under the tile - in a private house the last option is the most convenient. But if the installation scheme remains the same under the tile, then laying under the laminate requires a special approach:

The laminate must be of high quality. The material emits volatile substances when heated, a fake will be inappropriate. It is better to look at the label "Warmwasser" - this is a decor for floors with a water-heated floor.
Heat-insulating and waterproofing materials do not fit under the laminate.
To ensure ventilation, an expansion gap up to 15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the laminate layout. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
Before laying the dice, you need to spread the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary for a set t ° - the slats will warm up and it is easier to lay them.

Despite the absence of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-heated floors under the laminate. Lamellas are characterized by low thermal conductivity, it is higher for tiles, moreover, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, the tile is much more practical.

Operating rules

Knowing how to professionally make a water heated floor in a house, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and accessible:

Warm floors in a private house, the layout of which is made in compliance with the technology, always gain t ° gradually. Starting the circuit at the maximum mark after long downtime, the owner will receive a reduction in service life.
An increase in the t ° regime should be gradual, no more than 4-5 ° C per day.
The indicator of the mode t ° of the incoming coolant is not higher than 45⁰С.
Frequent start-ups and shutdowns of the system are fraught with rapid wear, but not cost savings.

In order to use heating with pleasure and without damage to health, it is recommended to maintain an optimal humidity regime.

There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to make a warm floor in a private house, the owner will be able to perform installation on the street, for example, on the entrance area, stairs, car parking.