We decide how to connect the thermostat to the gas boiler of autonomous heating. Connecting the thermostat to the warm floor Connection diagram room temperature controller

Already long ago ceased to be some kind of wonder. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to such a method of heating premises, planning its use in conjunction with the classic heating system or even instead of it. Benefits A lot is both efficiency, and special comfort, and the optimal distribution of heat in the size of the room.

If you compare two main types of "warm floors", and, then the second is much easier and cheaper in the arrangement, it is easier to set up and operate. Many scares the high cost of electricity. But this criterion is sufficiently conditional, if the apartment or the house is warmly insulated, and the operation of the heating system is competently organized. The control function of the electric "warm floor" is placed on a special device - thermostat. It is a mandatory element of the system, and the level of created comfort and efficiency of operation will depend on its correct operation.

The installation of such a "brain" of the system is not at all difficult task. Let's figure it out how to connect the warm floor to the thermostat.

What is the thermoregulation of "warm sex" need?

Literally a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly operating control system for electric "warm floors".

Such a heating system can not be simply included in the network and operate according to the principle "than warmer - the better." The heating temperature of the surface is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed the maximum of +27 degrees in residential premises. Several above it can be in bathrooms and shower, in corridors or hallways, but also within + 30 ÷ 33 degrees. And why?

First, the level of comfortable perception of the head of the human legs from the bottom and lies within up to 25 ÷ 27 degrees. At higher temperatures, especially exceeding the normal body temperature, it is clearly "soldering". And the feeling of pleasant heat is replaced by obvious discomfort.

Secondly, excessively strong heating negatively acts on the finishing floor covering. Even those varieties that are designed to operate in a complex with a heating system have the upper bounds of permissible temperatures. Otherwise, deformation processes may begin due to excessive linear expansion. Drying, discrepancies of seams, damage to castle compounds and other unpleasant phenomena are observed.

Finally, the question of rational spending expensive electrical energy was extremely important. In a well-distant system of "warm sex", with high-quality thermal insulation of overlapping and all the premises in general, the heating elements work very limited time. The example is presented in the diagram below.

Not only is the total consumption even in such continuous mode of operation - it is very slightly. Savings are also achieved by the exact setting of modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it really needs.

All these control functions are just takes on a special device - thermostat.

Varieties of thermostators for electric "warm floors"

Temperature regulators are compact devices designed for installation in standard convergence (embedded models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To work in warm floors systems, they must be completed with a thermal sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostators have a built-in thermal sensor, which tracks the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually applied in cases where the electrical heating system becomes the main source of heat. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting a remote thermal sensor and using the mode of operation "by sex".

Prices for a warm floor

warm floor

All variety of modern thermostators can be divided into three groups:

Electromechanical devices are the simplest in design and use. And, it is clear, the most inexpensive at its cost.

All controls of such devices are usually limited to the inclusion key and the adjacent temperature wheelchair. The simplest indication is envisaged - the LED saying whether the power is included on the heating elements at the current moment.

The advantages of such devices are simplicity and available price. But the accuracy of the insertion of the temperature regime can "chrome" - however, it is quickly solved by the user at an intuitive level. And the second disadvantage, more important, can be considered the absence of programming modes programming. That is, sensitive savings of electricity consumption achieve with an electromechanical thermostat will not work.

The second group is electronic devices equipped with a digital display and buttons (sensors) to accurately set the desired heating temperature.

Such instruments are certainly more convenient in operation, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory is provided. Apparently, this circumstance is just limiting their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical "fellow". But it is also not possible to achieve real saving energy consumption with them.

The third group is already "smart" thermostators, the functionality of which there are a lot of options. They usually have a built-in temperature sensor - it is possible to switch control modes "by floor" and "by air". But the most important thing is the thermostat can be programmed into several modes of operation and in time during the day, and by days, taking into account the weekdays and weekends.

For example, the floor is heated in the morning to the lifting of the owners and remains in this state until their work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum necessary temperature value - spend the gap energy there is no need. But the most comfortable conditions will be created to the arrival of tenants home again.

Such cycles can be programmed several during the day. And taking into account the schedule of its work - in advance to make a weekend, when the heating modes are different. There is always the possibility and adjust the specified installations if one or other changes in the family's lifestyle occurred. Or simply - temporarily go to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the device's memory, and it is possible to return to them at any time.

Modern models, in addition, can be equipped with remote control from the console, or even remote, on the Internet or GSM communication channels.

Most of the models are on sale are designed to manage a "warm floor" system in one room. But if the conditions allow, you can also purchase a two-channel device. It is able to carry out independent heating control in adjacent premises. It is completed with two remote thermal sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating contours from one suburban power line.

You can still add that except for embedded and overhead devices, there are also thermostat with installation on a DIN rail.

Prices for thermostators

heavy-floor thermostat

But special convenience for operation in the conditions of an apartment or at home is not visible. Is that - there is no need to pull the power line to the placement of the thermostat - it is also in the distribution cabinet. But it is more problems with the gasket of a signal cable from the thermal sensor and the "cold ends" from the heating cable or mat. So winnings - doubtful. And all the room regulators have enough accurate design. So do not spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, in groups or switches.

General principles for connecting thermostators to electric warm floor

Optimal place for thermostat

This device placed on the wall in a convenient place for the user - so that the installation of modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules-recommendations that should be followed by:

The thermostat should not be located on the traditional path of drafts. Do not put it in the walls of the wall, on which the straight sunny rays come from the window. This rule will all be relevant, if the device is equipped with a built-in thermal sensor. That is, it is possible to operate the system with an estimate of the temperature "by air".
As a rule, these devices do not have on the outer walls, that is, in contact with the street.
The height of the instrument above the floor level is at least 400 mm. The upper limit is not regulated. But raising the thermostat above the line of view of the average by the growth of a person is simply unreasonable.
If the warm floor is placed in a room with high humidity (bathroom, shower, sauna, etc.), then the thermostat should be taken into an adjacent room. The buildings of most devices do not have a proper class of protected from direct injection of water splashes from steam exposure.
The location of the thermostat on the wall can depend to a certain extent and on the length of the terminal signal cable of the thermal sensor. The thermal sensor itself should be located at least 500 mm from the wall, in the center between the adjacent twists of the heating cable. The exception is film "Warm floors" in which the head of the thermal sensor should have to be on a black carbon heating strip, also on its center and on the same distance from the wall.

For an embedded thermostat (on the scheme - pos.1) in the wall, the nest is cut into the usual peavercraft with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most of the masters recommend applying not a standard peavering with a depth of 45 mm, but with a larger depth - 60 mm. This is in order for the thermostat body and all the wire connected to the terminals of the wires fragilely fit in it.

In this, the dedicated power line should be headed, taking into account the capacity of the planned load. As a rule, for electric "warm floors", there is enough cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm², which is calmly withstands the load to 3.5 kW. The line should be protected in a distribution shield by 16 amps. (There is definitely copper wires - aluminum for home for a long time "outside the law").

From the conversion vertically to the floor, the stabings are cut (pos. 2). It will place "cold ends", connected through coupling (pos. 3) with heating cable or mats, and a thermal sensor cable. The depth and width of the stages usually make such that two corrugated pipes are fitted with a diameter of 10 mm. In one of them, the power wires will be arranged - "cold ends", just for security reasons. And the second tube is designed for the thermal sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (pos. 4) up to the point of its installation.

This installation is explained by the fact that the thermal sensors are out of time. And to be the possibility of replacement, it is placed in the pipe. His cable is rather tough, and it can be pushed into a significant length in this channel.

On the floor, the tube with a thermal sensor is openly located if it is planned to fill the screed with a thickness of 35 ÷ 50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In the same cases, the tile will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems suggest such a way of installation), for and on the surface of the floor, the stages are cut.

The corrugated tube is not used only with film electric "warm floor". There is not expected tie, that is, the replacement of the sensor failed can be carried out by removing the floor covering section. Yes, the temperature readings here are somewhat different - directly from the heating element. It will dismantle below.

The end of the corrugated tubes so that the solution does not hit it during the pouring of the screed, jamming the plug (pos.5). The plug can enter the kit, or they are made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.

The illustration below shows a set of thermostat. In addition to the thermal sensor, not only the segment of the corrugated house, but also the plug to it.

Moreover, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer complies with a set of brass stub. It is in it that the head of the thermal sensor should be logged, that is, the thermally sensitive element itself. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal of the testimony that the sensor will be removed in this case are more correct.

The thermostat connection circuit

Any thermostat if it was purchased in the store, accompanied by a detailed instruction for its connection. But with the switching of wires on the terminals of the device, it is quite possible to figure outself and by itself, focusing on the marking of contacts. Despite the large variety of models, most preserves approximately the same diagram. So you can consider it on the example.

The first pair of contacts (1 and 2) - to connect the supply voltage. Note - for the correct operation of the thermostat, the correct installation of the phase (L) and zero (N) is important. That is why it is important to observe the color marking of the wires when laying the wiring - never confuse.
The second pair (3 and 4) is to connect the load, that is, the heating elements of the "warm floor". Typically indicates the value of the maximum permissible current - in this case it is 16 amps.
The third pair of contacts (6 and 7) is to connect the thermal sensor signal cable wires. The location of the conductors here does not matter. And also there is a signature, speaking about the parameters of the thermal sensor - its resistance at a temperature of +25 ° C is 10 com.

By the way, it will never be superfluous before installing to check the module compliance with the specified resistance to the real one. If a coincidence is obtained (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working, and it can be safely installed in place. If the value obtained is clearly different, then it can talk about the sensor fault. And it is better to replace it right away so as not to be born with this later.

So, no wisdom is not, everything is simple. But when switching, care is still needed.

Frequent error of inexperienced users - power wires are installed on the load terminals. After supplying the voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.

Before connecting, it will never prevent once again with the instructions and applied symbols. The fact is that some models of thermostators have a different order of location of the terminals. In particular, two zero, nutrition and loads are first located, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply a "stereotypical" connection scheme shown above, it will mean a guaranteed short circuit.

And where to go ground wire?

Infrequently, but there are models of thermostators, in which a separate terminal is selected for connecting the grounding and shielding braid of the heating cable.

But more often do otherwise. The green-yellow power cable conductor is connected to the shielding braid through the terminal or crimping sleeves directly with each other directly. And this connection is connected in the space of the peavern.

In modern models of thermostat, for example, with remote and remote control, there may be additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it goes beyond the scope of our article. In this case, it is necessary to be clearly guided by the appiled instructions. Or, if there is no experience of such a robot - it is better to invite a specialist.

Examples of the connection of the thermal controller of the warm floor - step by step

This section of the article considers three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.

Test connection of the thermostat RTC 70.26

This example is selected because such a thermostat refers to the most perhaps mass models. When it is installed, there are a number of nuances that should be known in advance. The trial switching is shown to test the efficiency of the device, that is, while without a stationary installation in the opposite. But well, the thermostat is very clearly demonstrated.

Illustration
	So, very popular thanks to its value (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness Model - RTC 70.26. A trial connection and operation will be conducted. In the role of the connected load will be the incandescent lamp (stands on the table).
	Rear view - on the housing there are terminals for connecting pair of wires. A mounting frame with arc-shaped slots is clearly visible - for fastening the thermostat in standard approach.
	The feature of this model, and very uncomfortable - before disassembling the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the installation wheel. It has to rise in a screwdriver and move along the axis progress.
	The screw is hidden by a screw that locks the cover on the instrument housing. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. The right screw does not need to touch - this is just a wheels turn limiter.
	After unscrewing the screw, the cover is neatly removed by the forward movement upwards.
	Here he is a nuance. The wheel rotates on the plastic axis, which, after removing the cover, is very easily removed from its nest. It is necessary to exercise accurate since: - the axis can be broken by a careless movement; - Such minor details have a harmful property to fall out and rolled into the most hard-to-reach places, so that they are not easy to find them. So it is better to immediately carefully pull out and put in a safe place.
	Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, with real installation, one must be installed first - all wires will be held through its window ...
	... And then the thermostat itself will be superimposed on top of it. As clearly seen - their mounting holes coincide.
	Go to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all terminals that will be used. When working with terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) sting so as not to damage the plastic edges of round nests.
	In Terminals 1 and 2, the wires of the power line are connected. It is important - not to forget to observe the correct location of zero and phases - this is indicated on the case near each of the terminals. In this case, simply to test the thermostat, a cable segment with a power plug is connected, which when checking will be turned on into the outlet.
	To terminals 3 and 4 are connected to the wires running to the load. Instead of the circuit of a warm floor for the test, an incandescent lamp will be used.
	Finally, the ends of the thermal sensor signal cable are installed in the terminals 6 and 7. Mutual location of their role does not play.
	Switching completed. Note - the wires suitable to the terminals can be multi-leading, and directly clamping their stripped ends - undesirable, as the contact may be initially unreliable, and over time also to weaken. All such wires are immediately dressed in terminal tips and crimped. Exception - copper wires of the power lines, if they are monasure. But if there is a multi-voltage wire (for example, 3 × 2.5 PVS), then the tips are definitely needed.
	Imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in the opposite, and it is required to collect it.
	First, the plastic axis is neatly inserted into its socket. It is necessary to feel that its lower slot entered the existing connection on the board.
	After that, the upper lid is dressed. The switch key must enter its window, the axis - go through the hole.
	Next - the cover is fixed with the screw. Plastic is rather fragile, so it should not strive to tighten the screw further - so you can achieve the appearance of a crack or at all the break under the head.
	Carefully dresses on the axis and deals down until the temperature of the temperature setting is stopped. You can immediately check the correctness of its installation - the risk imposed on it should be moved in the range of the applied scale.
	Everything is ready for testing. Power wires connect to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - "enabled".
	Nothing happens - no power supply. But this is because the regulator is installed while the temperature is only 10 degrees, and indoors are clearly more. It is clear that the thermal sensor does not give commands to turn on.
	Let's try to move the regulator but a mark of 30 degrees. There is a light bulb caught fire, that is, the thermostat allowed meals for the load, which was supposed to do!
	Let's start gradually reduce the value of the specified temperature on the regulator. When the level is reached, lower than the real temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - the heating is not required. Obviously, the device works correctly.

You can somewhat modify the experiment. To set the level of heating at 30 degrees, and then clamp the head of the thermal sensor in the palm of the palm. Since the temperature of the human body is higher, when the heating level is reached more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.

But it all was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connecting and operating the thermostat. And now you need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, at the place.

Prices for film warm floor

film warm floor

Switching and installation of an electronic thermostator to a regular place

This example shows the process of connecting and installing the thermostat of electrical cable "warm floor". Heating elements are laid and filled with a screed for a long time. On the walls of the room even finished finish. Podrotimette is wondered and all the necessary cables and wires are installed in it.

Naturally, before starting work, it should be checked again, whether the power line going to the warm floor is de-energized - the machine must be turned off.

The device "Devireg Touch" is used, the removable cover of which is simultaneously the sensory digital display. It is attached on the housing on the latches, while switching with it through the existing connector.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	Podrottor opens if it was covered for the trim time. Wires are displayed out. So, there are three types of wires - the power cable is copper mono-channel 3 × 2.5 WEG, the heating cable is dwended in the shielding braid and the temperature cable of the temperature sensor.
	All wires are trimmed, so that they come out of the peavern for the level of the wall at 80 ÷ 100 mm - this is enough.
	To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect a green-yellow power cable wire with a copper shielding lap heating cable. The connection will be executed by the "WAGO" terminal. Since the braid consists of a plurality of thin wires, for a high-quality connection in the terminal it must be sent.
	The end of the braid is neatly tightly twisted, processed by flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder.
	The end of a green-yellow power cable grounding wire is cleaned. It is best to perform this with a special tool - the insulation puller.
	Then both prepared conductor are inserted alternately and clamping in the "WAGO" terminal.
	After that, the wires are neatly fenced, and this connecting unit is removed into the conversion.
	The terminal should be accommodated at the bottom of the submersion. As already mentioned, for the thermostat it is better to use the conversion of an enlarged depth. Commission of grounding is completed.
	Prepare to connect the rest of the wires. Their ends are cleaned of insulation, about 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Since the "cold ends" of the heating cable have a multi-breed structure, for a high-quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be "dined" into crimp tips.
	The monolon wires of the power cable of the VG will be perfectly lit in the terminal without any tips. The thermal sensor wires can have terminal tips installed on production. However, just here the load is almost no, so you can do and brings the tips - this will be enough. If there are tips of the desired diameter - you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires are not flushing to ensure good contact.
	If all wires are prepared, you can go to switching them. The steam connection sequence does not matter. In this example, the master began with a cable connection of the thermal sensor. As mentioned earlier, the mutual location of the thermal sensor wires in terminals (NTS) is not regulated. Wires are inserted into the terminals and tighten with screws. The applying effort is tested by the reliability of their fixation.
	Further, they are headed in the terminals and then tightened dressed in the tips "cold ends" of the heating cable. The color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: it is exactly such an example when the wires of the power and heating cable are installed "into the crossing" - the next two phases, and then two zero. It is important to take it very carefully, focusing on the designations applied.
	After that, the feed wires also become clamped in their terminals, also in strict accordance with the color marking and applied notation.
	All wires are connected. It is possible for confidence to be held again - check the quality of tightening contacts on all terminals.
	Now the thermostat body must be accurately inserted into the opposition. In order to do not interfere with the wires, having quite significant rigidity, are applied as follows. Initially, the device is taken as shown in the illustration.
	Then gently rotate it up, so that all the wires from the bottom are the first uniform bending.
	After that, the wires to the back side of the thermostat casing are pressed with indicable fingers on both sides.
	... And the device itself turns a little back.
	As a result, it should be such a zigzag bending of all wires ...
	... and the thermostat will easily enter the penetper.
	If necessary, it is equalized by horizontally using a construction level ...
	... and then fixed to the conversion of self-draws. The masters recommend using not those self-tapping screws, which come in the kit, and somewhat longer, 25 or 30 mm - it will be more reliable. After the injection of self-samples, the level of installation is checked again - and then they are completely tightened.
	All, the device body is installed, it remains to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and neatly leaks forward until latches work.
	All, thermostat installed. If the conditions allow, you can turn on the power and carry out a test launch of the warm floor system. And then - configuration and programming of the device, in accordance with the manual attached to it.

It can be added that the start of the "warm floor" system, if the heaters are closed with a screed, can only be carried out after a complete set of strength. It is completely unacceptable to "stimulate" the frozen and ripening of concrete with the inclusion of heating. And even after the complete readiness of the screed and flooring, the start still does not produce at once on the calculated power. It is necessary to start, for example, from heating to 15 degrees, and then raise the temperature of 5 degrees daily until the planned mode is reached. This most achieved the maximum smooth adaptation of all components of the "Warm Paul Pie" to normal operation in conditions of elevated temperatures.

Connecting the thermostat to the film "Warm floor"

Finally, the third example dismant the connection of the thermostat to the floor heating system with infrared film elements. There are differences in the installation of the thermal sensor, and the thermostat itself will be installed not to the capital wall, but on the hard lining (MDF-CLO).

The example shows the personal experience of the author of this article.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	For a warm floor, in this example, the 3 mounted meters of the film heater "Heatonog" of South Korean production was purchased. Specific power - 220 W / m². That is, with a width of the film 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor heating system will be only 330 W. Stying will be conducted in a small room of a private house. The room is a former children. Former because the daughter was rustling to student age.
	More in this case is not required. "Warm floor" is creating exclusively to increase the level of comfort, and not instead of the existing water heating system. It is planned to place the heaters with two lines. A longer, two-meter (pos.4) captures a plot from the entrance door through the center of the room to the desk (pos.2). The second, meter plot (pos.3) will be located along the bed (pos.1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be littered with laminate.
	A power cable from the selected automaton located in the next room was carried out. I had to punch the wall and take part of the cladding to skip the wires. It is decided to leave a high shelf on the left wall - it is behind her cladding from the MDF-Watch that the power conductor will be held, and the thermostat with a parallel connected socket will be located on the section shown in the blue arrow. Film heaters do not suggest grounding, therefore, the PVS wires 2 × 1.5 are used. With such a low power of heaters and with the calculation, that the socket is intended to charge gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of the thermostat and the sockets, two facing panels are temporarily removed here - in them, after a small alteration, windows will be cut down to install conversion.
	The surface of the floor-lined OSP surface is covered with a foil substrate from polyethylene foam. All joints are combined with foil scotch. The illustration is clearly visible by a plot where the thermostat will be installed. Facing panels are shortened - a small niche shelf will be placed there. In the panels, the windows are cut and conversion (as for drywall - with clamping legs behind the back). Immediately installed socket, connected to the power cable. From it the loop there is a segment of the cable that will connect to the thermostat. The height of the installation of the submersionists in this case was 450 mm, with a permissible minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut under the panel with a socket (shown by the arrow) - the wires of the "warm floor" and the thermal sensor will pass through it.
	Switching the heating film elements will be carried out according to such a scheme: 1 - thermal sensor; 2 - Points of connection to the tires of phase wires; 3 - Points of connection of zero wires; 4 - Points of isolation remaining unused cropped ending tires. All wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - must pass into the cut-out arched window.
	The heating film is cut into two fragments that are laid on the place intended for them. The "copper" side of the tires should look down.
	In long edges, heaters are fixed to the surface of the floor strips of construction tape.
	First of all, insulation is insulated with the covered ends of tires, which will not be involved in switching. This uses special overlays on a revincible basis, which walked with a film. On the one hand, a protective paper substrate is removed ...
	... The insulating pad is pasted from below to the tire ...
	... driving and tightly crimped. And so - at all four points in accordance with the scheme.
	In order for the insulation places to be discharged up above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut into a foil substrate exactly along the contour of the insulating overlay.
	Next, the battlefield meaters begins. For this, the wires are also used and included in the "warm floor" kit.
	Special terminal contacts are inserted into the tire cuts. To do this, you can slide a slot between two layers of the film with a screwdriver.
	The top petal of contact is introduced into this slot ...
	... and the lower first is just pressed with a finger ...
	... and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - on all the point, according to the scheme where the wires will be connected.
	Then to these terminals, again, strictly according to the scheme, the wires are connected. Their ends stripped from insulation are introduced into the terminal, and then sequentially spinning her petals.
	After comprise terminals, it is insulated with the same reversible overlays. Only one is glued below, as shown in the illustration ...
	... and the second is on top. After careful compression, a neat insulating "Cocoon" is obtained.
	Under it is also cut out the window in a foil substrate. In addition, the Wire is "drown", the groove is cut under it. Similarly, operations are repeated at all points of wire connection, according to the scheme.
	It's time to install the thermal sensor. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed to it below (the place is shown by the arrow).
	Reliable fixation is provided by a strip of reinforced construction scotch.
	For the signal cable, the groove is cut in the substrate, and for the head of the thermal sensor, it even had to make a slight recess in the plywood floor covering.
	Switching the heaters is over, all wires converge in one point - dive under lining.
	And the film heaters are finally around the perimeter, and all the grooves with the laid wires are "sealed" by the construction scotch bands.
	Wires are charged for lining, and you can start the installation of the thermostat.
	The wires are used multi-proper, so crimp terminal tips were installed on all the ends of the ends.
	The wires are skipped through the windows cut into the opposite ...
	... And then the panel with the submersestate is installed in its place and is finally fixed there.
	There will be such a thermostat, electronic type with the possibility of weekly programming modes of "warm floor".
	First of all, it needs to be disassembled.
	First, the facing frame is removed - it is attached on the latches, and dismantle it is easy. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal caliper. It is fixed on it a moving metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photo.
	This bracket is moving with a screwdriver up and comes from grounding with a caliper.
	Caliper and thermostat after disassembly.
	The caliper is immediately put in place - fastened with self-drawing to the opposition. Wires are skipped through it.
	The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, standard scheme.
	First of all, the contacts of the thermal sensor cable are connected.
	Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the power cable wires - their connection simply did not fall into the frame.
	Before the final installation of the thermostat, it makes sense to check the performance of the assembled system.
	To do this, automat is turned on, that is, the power supply is supplied, and "OFF" appeared on the thermostat display - disabled. While everything goes according to plan.
	The thermostat is turned on. But heating does not begin, as the works were performed in summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device - 24 degrees. In the right side of the screen - real temperature indicators on the thermal sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary for the experiment to temporarily set the level of heating at 33 degrees. And the "warm floor" triggers instantly - the heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by the arrow), and the bare feet feel the rapid rise of the temperature on the floor. Everything is working!
	You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. The installation of it is already difficult not to cause - it is attached to the caliper, and then decorative frame is installed. After that, the power of this line was again turned on. The thermostat to cold weather will be in the off position, but the socket may well be used for purpose.
	And, finally, to logically finish this example, it is shown that in the end it turned out after the laminate flooring and the final finish of the area of \u200b\u200binstallation of the thermostat.

* * * * * * *

So, the publications described in detail examples of the installation of an electric heating floor thermostat. Only points associated with the exact setting and programming of such devices fell out of the field of view. But this is done intentionally not to make confusion. Simply different models can have their own characteristics, and there are no universal "recipes". Therefore, here will have to be strictly guided by the instruction attached to the thermostator. Or search more detailed description of the programming operations performed on the Internet.

As an example, you can recommend to see a detailed video instruction laid out on YouTube one of the users. By the way, the exact setting of the model is shown, almost completely coinciding with the installation shown in the last example.

Video: Configure the programmable thermostat series E51

If there is an infrared heater, the thermostat performs the functions of monitoring the set temperature parameters for a certain time. With it, you can plan preliminary premises, minimize the likelihood of fire and create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere in the house. To do this, it is enough to know how to connect the thermostat to the infrared heater.

What is the thermostat, appointment, principle of operation

The thermostat is based on the circuit of the circuit and opening of the electrical circuit. The adjustment of the microclimate for this parameter is based on the signal temperature sent by the temperature sensor. Consider this process in more detail:

When the specified temperature threshold is reached, the resistance of the internal sensor increases.
The thermostat opens the electrical chain.
When the sensor is cooled, the resistance rises again.
The thermostat is started again, but no longer dispels, but closes the electrical panel.

This cycle continues the specified time and allows you to talk about the automatic installation of the temperature regime in a room equipped with an infrared heater. Its advantage - in the heating of the surrounding items, and the thermostat facilitates the management of this process.

Types of thermostators

Despite the universal nature of the principle of the thermostat, there are several classifications for these auxiliary devices that determine the algorithm for their connection, control and configuration. So, by the mechanism of action, thermostats can be divided into two large types:

mechanical;
electronic.

Mechanical thermostators are simple and reliable

Reliable and easy to manage Mechanical thermostators are reminded in appearance box of plastic with lever, control temperature parameters. Adds ease of use of the presence of a scale, the division of which is applied in increments of 1 degrees. Inside the device is a sensitive membrane, heating or cooling of which is based on climate control. In the popularity of these models there are reasons:

the connection scheme does not require special skills and skills, even newcomer is available;
simple design is a pledge of durability;
relatively low cost in comparison with electronic counterparts.

Electronic thermostators are more modern, but require a special approach.

The main features of electronic thermostators are as follows:

displays information about the settings and occurring processes on the display screen;
the need for power supply;
push-button or touch control panels;
the possibility of programming climatic indicators for a day or all week;
remote control via a mobile application;
connecting additional climatic devices (for example, heated floor).

To increase the service life of an electronic device, direct sunlight falls on it, as well as take care of the absence of drafts indoors.

Connection options

Before connecting the thermostat, it is necessary to make sure that the conditions are favorable for its operation:

the power of the heater does not exceed 3000 W;
the thermostat will be installed on a sufficient distance from the device;
on the body of the thermostat will not fall the sun rays;
humidity in the rooms corresponds to the norm.

The standard thermostat connection diagram is laid in the framework of the following algorithm:

If you need to equip a thermostat with two nearby heating instruments, then a parallel connection option is used, at which there are two veins to the thermostat from the shield, and the output is a layout to each of the heaters.

To connect two heating devices, the scheme will look like this

Connection nuances depending on the heater model

The heater model will determine the specifics of connecting the thermostat.

Ballu is one of the most famous thermostat manufacturers.

So, the instructions from the Ballu manufacturer contains the following important additions:

the total heaters capacity should not exceed the maximum thermostat power;
from the floor to the instrument, it is necessary to withstand the distance at least 1.5 meters;
the thermostat is led by a layer of insulation, and its outer surface is forbidden to close by anything to ensure unhindered air exchange.

For infrared heaters, the "Warm floor" system use thermostats with a remote sensor, which imposes its own features when installing and subsequently connected:

the thermostat is not higher than 0.5 meters from the floor level;
in its design 6 terminals: steam for the "phase" and "neutral", steam for IR-heaters of the floor and steam for wires from the remote sensor;
the insulation lining is not required, and disguise with curtains, etc. It will not affect the operation of the instrument (unlike options with a built-in temperature sensor).

By studying an independent installation of the thermostat, you should take care of compliance with the elementary safety rules:

the grounding circuit is performed from the conductor of a certain thickness and with a small resistance;
the best placement of the thermostat - wall;
in one room - one device;
it should be left open, without masking with cloth, curtains, interior items, etc.

Thus, the infrared heater equipped with a thermostat allows you to save electricity, warm the room in advance and facilitate the climate control process. It is important to properly connect the thermostat to the heating device. Study compliance with the instructions guarantees safe and long-term operation of the device.

In recent years, in our age of high technology, it is a special value of items with minimal costs of electricity costs for their work. Such products are especially ideal for heating devices, effectively adjusting their performance. One of these items is the thermostat for an infrared heater, it will be discussed in this article.

Types and characteristics of thermostators

The thermostat is a device that allows you to fix the temperature in the room through a certain time interval and at the same time correcting the device settings for the necessary values. For example, when the temperature reaches a certain number, heat the work cycle forced. And, on the contrary, with its decrease - the device resumes its work.

Constructive characteristics and principle of thermostat management can be different. There are two main types of thermostats for heaters:

mechanical;
electronic.

The thermostat for warm floors is a special purpose device, which allows control and regulation of the degree of heating of the floor and air indoor. Basically, each room where the mounting of a warm floor is made, equipped with a thermostat.

The thermostat serves as a guarantor of maintaining the desired temperature regime. However, manufacturers successfully produce multichannel instruments in which each of the channels is responsible for maintaining the heating of its own zone.

The main purpose of the device is to maintain the specified temperature regime, which is expressed in the process of performing its functional duties, namely:

Enable and disable heating As a state of changes in the temperature of the floor covering (possibly, taking into account the air temperature in the apartment).
Enable economical heating mode At night or during periods of lack of owners of real estate.
Connect or disable system At a given period of time.

Connecting thermostators to electric warm floors

Connection scheme

A similar type of gender implies the presence of heating elements in the form of infrared films or cable, which has a greater resistance and gradually heats up.

Step-by-step connection guide:

First thing The place is determined where the thermostat will be located.
We compile a connection scheme.
We think about the location scheme of all items. It is recommended to install in places with the presence of access to wires, since the system's workflow obliges to the presence of 220 V.
Laying warm material, You should first consider where the thermal sensor will be located, since its installation is impossible under furniture or in the minimum proximity to the regulator. The use of infrared film involves the installation of the sensor from the wrong part.
After the installation of the floor laying You can proceed with the installation of the thermostat. In a predetermined place, it should be deepened in the wall for embedded instruments or make the wall markup on the wall surface when installing the outer device.
Compare the switching type of power regulator With the power level of heating elements. With a much smaller indicator, installing a specialized magnetic starter should be installed, which is designed to carry out the workflow in the network 220 V.
We proceed to connect the wires into a single chain. Connection diagram must be located on the instrument housing. Observing all the rules and tips, the collection of wires into a single chain will be able to implement anyone.
In the end It should be connected to the power grid and check the performance of the entire system. It is recommended to check until full laying of the floor covering, which will allow you to quickly correct it when the problem is detected and easily reached at the right moment to the heating elements.

Connecting the thermostat to the water warm floor

Connection scheme

Despite the fact that the installation of the thermostat for the water floor covering is not a prerequisite, many homeowners still produce its installation. This allows you to control the level of supply of warm water flow into the system.

The device can be selected as a mechanical type and electronic. Given the predominance of a high degree of inertia, it is recommended to acquire thermal divers with air species.

Step-by-step guide:

Primarily We produce the temperature of the temperature regime sensor. The surface of the wall on which the sensor will be located, in no case can not heal. This may disrupt the overall workflow of the system. The best option will be the placement of the sensor in the maximum proximity to the thermostat.
Directly in the heating system Installation of specialized servo drive. The technical device is responsible for the supply of warm water pressure, turning into the contours.
All wiresAvailable in stock should be connected to one chain.
Configure all items.
Upon completion of the installation You should connect to the network and check the performance of the entire design. To do this, it is necessary to measure (about 90-120 minutes) by an ordinary thermometer in the place where the sensor is installed. Proper work must completely exclude fluctuations in indicators or their significant difference.
Work with electricity It should be carried out only after de-energizing the chain, which will be a guarantor of security.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other device, a thermostat for heating floors has several advantages and disadvantages.

Among the main advantages of the device can be allocated:

Ease of management.
Available pricing policy.
Saving costs For payment of electricity.
Ergonomic device quality.
Ease of holding Installations.
Availability Automatically set the power on and off of the warm floor.
Availability Regulate the temperature mode.
High quality equipment.
Reliability of work Regulator.
Installed functional memorywhich provides customization in cases of power outage.

There are practically no shortcomings of the device. The main minus is the complexity of the functional programming of the settings system. However, having understood once during the installation, there are no difficulties in the future.

For each type of floor there is a type of thermostat.

Types of thermostators

Thermostats are divided into the following types:

Mechanical

A fairly simple, uncomplicated form of the device, which is produced in the embedded type case with the presence of a circular switch located on the front side.

To control it is necessary to rotate the switch in a circle. Some manufacturers equip the device with several "steps" of regulation. They are marked or digital lists. The functional process is designed exclusively on the manual type of switching on and off. Saving costs for electricity is practically absent or keeps at a minimum level.

Digital

A fairly popular modern type of thermostat. Makes it possible to regulate at the maximum accurate level. Available in the form of an overhead structure (or embedded) with the presence of a button or sensory system input.

The digital scoreboard provides for the possession of the desired temperature regime with a minimum degree of error. As an addition, it is possible to automatically disconnect the power supply to several degrees below, which will significantly save electricity costs.

Programmable

Expensive, but a significantly effective device that is produced both in the form of a built-in type of small size and having a large panel with the presence of a sensitive touchscreen.

It makes it possible to install the most accurate setting of the working process of warm floors. This introduces the desired schedule of work at the time interval. The working process of the device saves a significant level of electricity costs.

Combined

Reminds a simple block of the regulator with the presence of an external control system (external console). The mechanical device provides manual power on and off power.

Setting, implying the external control panel makes it possible to bypass the side of the rough installation of the construction to the surface of the wall. This is an additional advantage with a unique design design.

Temperature change sensor

The ordinary type of thermostat is equipped with a single sensor that is used to measure the temperature mode of the floors. However, as practice shows, this is not the most effective option.

Given the various conditions of the heating system of warm floors, it is better to take advantage of a much more complex temperature control scheme.

In the case when the heating of the room is carried out exclusively from the warm floor, it is recommended to control the temperature mode by means of air heating sensors.

If the room is used flooring in the form of a parquet, linoleum or, then it is necessary to exclude the possibility of overheating it in advance, namely avoid temperatures higher than 25 degrees. In this case, it is more expedient to acquire and install a sensor designed to measure the floor temperature difference.

Regulators are divided into the following types (according to sensors):

With the presence of a built-in sensorwhich measures the temperature regime.
With the ability to connect an external sensorwhich will control the temperature.

Instruments that are designed to connect multiple sensors are used as the main type of room heating. By purchasing a digital type of device, you can easily ensure control of the temperature of floor coatings.

Mandatory the presence of a normal cross section of the thermostat cable. If there are posting of old times, it is much safer to install a separate line, which will go from a specially reserved machine.
When using a thermostat for heating several rooms at the same timeIt should be remembered that the regulation of the temperature regime may be solely in the room where the sensor is located. For this reason, problems with temperature regimens are possible.
It is categorically not recommended to use one regulator indoors with opposite operating conditions (either with a large temperature drop). It will be impossible to achieve the desired heating in all rooms.
The best option will be the use of a separate thermostat. For each room with warm floors.