How to insulate the ceiling at the entrance. How to insulate a wall in an entrance with your own hands
In the summer of 2010 I bought an apartment in brick house... The former owners, of course, did not warn about anything. And the chairman HOA already after the purchase he said: "I must warn you - there is poor ventilation in your riser and the wall is freezing. Now we are suing the developer." After that, I carefully examined the wall and black dots were found on it in the corner and closer to the floor, apparently mold: (The HOA court with the developer did not give anything, because the guarantee ended (the house was commissioned in 2005-2006), the developer company sold (now it is registered not in our region, but in St. Petersburg) and in general, there is no money for the courts.
In general, the rescue of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves. And you have to save yourself from the cold (the blackness does not seem to grow yet). In winter, in a room with outside wall very cold. Because there is access to the wall from the side of the entrance (the wall opens onto the fire balcony + to the unheated refuse chute + to the poorly heated elevator hall), then I would like to insulate it on our own. But I don’t know how, what and whether it makes sense at all.
What the wall consists of, what are the mistakes of the builders - it is impossible to achieve. The chairman (already different) is elusive, one of the board members came, knocked on the wall and said: "Why did you remove the foam? There should be a layer of foam on this wall." The accountant says: "According to the project, there should be a layer of mineral wool on the wall, but since the apartments were bought with a rough finish, no one did this layer at home." The woman (one of the few old-timers who has not yet sold an apartment in this riser) says: "Listen to them more - they won't say that!"
The temperature in winter in the center of the room on the table is 18-19C, in the corner on the floor 12C, one and a half meters further from the corner along the wall 15C.
I don’t understand - will insulation help me? Will mold feel more comfortable in the warmth? Not everything is good with heating either: in very coldy the batteries heat better and the room is noticeably warmer (above 20C). But in normal weather, the batteries are not so hot. The chairman says that the temperature is regulated at the CHP. And the bulk of the risers in the house screams that they live with open windows. And our batteries are not really hot. Those. the supply pipe is hot - you cannot hold your hand, but please hold on to the pipe on which the battery hangs.
My 3rd winter begins in a cold apartment. Can anyone help / prompt / advise? One important feature when insulating - the materials must be fireproof!
I enclose:
1. Photo of the facade of the house. It is noticeable that the fire balcony is deeper than the loggia, i.e. part of the wall actually faces the street (according to my calculations, it is 20 centimeters).
2. Plan of the BTI (on the left is the apartment of the neighbors, on the right is a fire balcony and a corridor). The dimensions inside the apartment correspond to the BTI ones.
3. The BTI plan shows that the wall thickness is different. But who would know how things really are. I tried to count the bricks on the loggia / fire balcony, measure it inside and out with a tape measure. I am laying out a diagram of what approximately happened.
Experts answered the question
The best answer
5 replies
First of all, look at the adhesions to the wall, ceiling, wall, floor, corners, most likely it will be necessary to groove. Shtrobite everything and an autopsy will show that there is no insulation between the walls, and all the adhesions and corners are smeared in some way. Purchasing polyurethane foam and into all holes and crevices. But then you buy GVL guides and racks to it, unforgettable about dowels and self-tapping screws and mineral wool, I like ROCKWOOL. And the mold must be removed.
I often meet with similar problems and decide everything. There is nothing super complicated here. It is necessary to insulate the wall from the side of the entrance. A wall of 2 bricks is insufficient heat protection from the outside cold. According to the project, there may have been an additional layer of foam or mineral wool insulation. It will need to be restored or recreated. You can use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), if the UK does not carefully check fire safety - after all, the EPS layer will need to be covered with a layer of plaster on top, and just like that, from a match, it will not catch fire. Take a layer of insulation with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
About flammability groups and fire safety materials intended for insulation can be found here:
The supply pipe of your battery is quite hot, and the output pipe is a little warm - this is due to the high heat loss in the apartment. Insulate the wall - the temperature difference will decrease, and you will not be able to hold onto the second pipe either.
The reason for the formation of mold is the constant presence of moisture (in your case, condensed) on the surface of the wall. Moisture condenses when the surface temperature of the wall is significantly lower than the ambient temperature. Insulate the wall - the temperature of its surface will rise, will not be much lower than the air temperature, and the conditions for condensation will be eliminated. Mold does not grow on dry surfaces.
Another reason for the formation of condensation can be high humidity air caused by poor ventilation. The normal indicator of the relative humidity in the cavity is 30-45%. At this humidity, there will be no condensation. If the humidity is higher than normal, then measures should be taken to normalize the operation of the ventilation system.
P.S. No need to groove and look for insulation inside the wall. He's probably not there. And if there is, then the layer insufficient thickness, since it does not provide the required thermal protection.
Helpful answer? Yes 2 / No
Oleg, you didn’t specify which side to shave? from the side of the apartment?
I would insulate the wall from the side of the entrance. And the mold must be removed and dried.
Helpful answer? Not really
Thanks for the answer! 
This figure shows that the fire balcony for the most part borders on the loggia. Loggia not insulated ( aluminum glazing). Therefore, I think that it makes no sense to insulate the entire wall of the fire balcony. But what to do in the corner, where is the red? This is, in principle, a real street - in winter, snow can sweep over. It probably won't get enough rain, but the materials must be resistant to temperature and precipitation. We have in Castorama aerated concrete blocks size 625x250x100. Is 10cm thick enough? If you put 25cm on the side, is it probably not enough to cover the red width and you will have to put 62.5cm on the side? Which solution should you use? Some kind of special glue for aerated concrete? Or do they not use aerated concrete for outdoor work?
I do not know exactly the red width (according to my estimates, it is 20-25cm). I don’t know the thickness of the wall either (according to estimates, 2-2.5 bricks). Maybe look for a thermal imaging option? Can she clarify something? At what outside temperature should it be done?
And one more question. If the HOA insists that it is necessary to insulate from inside the apartment, how to convince them otherwise?
You can insulate your apartment with crumpled newspapers and scotch tape. And you can arm yourself for this purpose with a thermal imager, an ultrasonic scanner and nano-paint. The owner of the home will completely master some work on heat saving himself, but for some, professionals will be needed. Well, the acceptance of work for quality will be carried out by frosts outside the window. Builders share "winter" secrets with Renovation.Divandi readers.
Treatment of a cold apartment begins with a diagnosis. We need to find out why the room is cold, despite the radiating heat from the radiator. The experience of builders says that most often heat leaves the apartment through faulty windows and into the places where the windows are adjacent to the wall. If we are talking about a panel house, another weak point is the corners of the room formed by the outer wall. On the ground floors, the floor is often the cause of the cold.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
A person who is far from construction cannot always establish the cause of the wall freezing. Cracks and cavities inside the walls, broken interpanel seams, the layman simply will not see the wrong brick laying. And a specialist may need special equipment - ultrasonic detectors, infrared cameras, etc.
In Yekaterinburg, there are firms that provide services for examining premises using a thermal imager for the presence of cold bridges. It costs from 2.5 thousand rubles. for the apartment. You can rent a thermal imager - from 1 thousand rubles. for 1 hour of rent. However, even without special equipment, the owner can learn a lot about the thermal circuit of his apartment. The main thing is to understand what to look for.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Check how done window slopes and the windows themselves, whether the sashes are tightly adjacent. If you live on the ground floor, check the floor-to-wall connections along the entire perimeter of the apartment. Also check the street walls, especially the outlets in them, and the corners of the rooms.
We treat windows for colds
Windows in Yekaterinburg apartments have been actively dressed in plastic for more than 10 years. Nevertheless, as repairmen notice, 50-60% of city dwellers' apartments still look at the world with glass in a wooden frame. Wooden windows are very good from an environmental point of view, but their thermal performance can deteriorate over time. Director of the Repair Center "Master for an Hour" Timur Abdullaev notes that today he has not lost its relevance grandfather's method"Piercing" wooden windows with ordinary cotton wool. Especially if the owner of the apartment took care of the insulation of the house after the arrival of winter. When it's freezing outside, repair it with high quality wooden windows more difficult.
Timur Abdullaev
Repair of a wooden window begins with a search for cold bridges - gaps and cracks. We clean the places where they are found from dirt, if necessary, remove the paint that has tightened the cracks with a spatula. After that, we fill in the cracks and gaps with a transparent sealant. It is sold in pencil form. It is better to do this work before the cold weather.
The Repair Center explained that a professional craftsman will insulate one window for about an hour. The cost of the work will be 350-700 rubles. Plastic windows provide better protection from the cold than wood. But only if they are in good condition.
Alexander Sukhanov
Incorrect fittings installation plastic window, especially multiplied by improper operation, can lead to the fact that the window will not close tightly, and attempts to lock it by force will only increase the gap between the frame and the binding to 3-5 mm. Another problem is the destruction of the rubber seal. All these malfunctions can be eliminated by a specialist. Adjusting a plastic window costs about 300 rubles, replacing a seal - from 110 rubles. per running meter. Replacing the fittings will cost from 700 to 5000 rubles.
Problems may not be in the window itself, but in the places where it adjoins the walls. As the master Alexey Zykov notes, construction GOSTs when installing a window, a whole range of special materials and technologies must be used. In practice, many elements are forgotten.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Slopes are often performed by non-specialists who believe that polyurethane foam is a panacea. According to GOST, when installing a window, it is necessary, in addition to thermal insulation, to provide waterproofing of the joint on the street side and vapor barrier on the side of the room. If we forget about these moments, and use foam as a heat insulator, then moisture will penetrate between the wall, frame and foam, the foam will begin to collapse. As a result, we get frozen, bad smelling, dirty slopes. The cost of a full-fledged installation is about 3-4 thousand rubles. for one window. It is clear that window companies with overly democratic prices will not be able to do everything according to the rules.
If cold air penetrates into the gaps between the window and the wall, then, as already suggested above, you can seal them with a sealant. But this will only be a temporary solution. When the frosts recede, you should spend full cycle works on insulation of slopes. It will cost from 10 thousand rubles. one window. By the way, the cracks formed under the windowsill can also be cured.
Timur Abdullaev
It is necessary to clean up the space under the windowsill 3-4 cm down and 4-6 cm in depth. Fill the resulting groove with foam. Just before buying it, you need to consult a store or a specialist. If you use this method impossible, it is permissible to simply seal the cracks with a sealant or use sheet and roll insulation that can be glued to the wall under the windowsill.
Entrance door
The door leading from the apartment to the staircase can also cause a cold snap in the house. To raise thermal insulation properties doors, often it is enough to replace rubber compressor and adjust door hinges... The cost of such work is from 1000 rubles. If there are gaps in the places of contact door frame to the walls, then you can use the above-mentioned methods of insulation with the use of sealant and polyurethane foam.
Central heating batteries
Commenting on the question of how to eliminate frost in the apartment, foreman Alexei Zykov explained that the landlord must take care not only to eliminate heat loss, but also to achieve sufficient heating power. In particular, he believes that the second problem can be solved by setting bimetallic batteries... If this is not enough, then you can apply warm floors and infrared heaters.
Director Sergei Rodionov warns that houses with central heating can not be put aluminum radiators... They are bursting with water pressure. Only bimetal or modern steel batteries can be used. Very well proven radiators Purmo... The size of the battery depends on the area of the room - one section per 2 sq. m. Replacing batteries in a room with an area of 15-16 sq. m. will cost 8-10 thousand rubles. (including materials).
It is possible to improve the efficiency of the battery without replacing it. It is enough to fix a layer of reflective heat insulator on the wall behind the radiator. In its simplest form, it can be ordinary food foil glued on thin foam or a cork. This "sandwich" is attached to the wall with the foil facing outward - towards the radiator. There are also ready-made solutions... In hardware stores, several types of roll insulation are sold, which is a metallized film glued to a sheet of expanded polypropylene or other polymer. For the manufacture of a reflective screen for a battery, you can use, for example, "Izospan" (FD, FS or FX), "Folgoplast SP" or "Porileks". True, as the builders note, these materials are sold in rolls at a price of 1.5-2 thousand rubles. The creation of screens even for a multi-room apartment will take only a small part of this volume. The rest will be superfluous. The most acceptable version of the edition was found in the OBI store. For 345 rubles. here you can buy a roll of "Porilex" 3 mm thick. and an area of 6 sq. m.
You can attach a sheet of such material to the wall with "liquid nails".
It is believed that installing a reflective screen behind a radiator will increase the room temperature by 2-3 degrees. However, there may be unpleasant consequences... It happens that mold or mildew appears behind the screen.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the outside
Builders notice that the need for ceiling insulation is rare - heat loss "up" occurs almost exclusively in apartments on the top floors.
Alexander Guette
In an apartment on top floor the easiest way to insulate the ceiling is by updating the layer of expanded clay backfill in the attic. Perhaps, during the construction of the house, expanded clay was filled up incorrectly, or already in the finished house someone borrowed it for their own purposes. But, there are houses where the height of the attic is only a few tens of centimeters and reach the ceiling cold room impossible. Then you have to insulate the ceiling from inside the apartment. Usually a 5 cm layer of mineral wool is sufficient for this. We attach it to plastic "mushrooms" and sew it up with drywall.
Sexual question
Most often, residents of the first floor experience problems with a cold floor. The insulation technology depends on the construction of the floor.
Timur Abdullaev
If the floor is on logs, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of expanded clay under it, and also check if the pipe passages are covered with insulation. If not, then literally under floorboard cold air will penetrate from the basement or from the street. We had a case - ice formed right on the expanded clay layer. We replaced the expanded clay and insulated the space under the floor.
If the floor is laid on a screed, insulation can be brought under it. Expanded polystyrene is usually used. Another popular option is the installation of a warm floor. Often, the problem of a cold floor can be solved just by changing flooring... As the designer, head of Studio-33 Valentina Ivleva notes, replacing the laminate with a natural one gives a good result. wooden parquet or at cork... The price of high-quality parquet is from 1500 rubles. per sq. m., the cork costs from 950 to 1500 rubles. per square. Plus, for styling, you will have to pay from 500 to 1000 rubles. per sq. m.
Another simple option is to lay carpet over the existing floor. Its price starts from 700-800 rubles. per sq. m.
Sergey Zanin
We were tasked with eliminating freezing of the floor in a room with a balcony. Plank floor on logs. We found out that cold air got under the boards through a hole under balcony door... The floor was opened in the room at a distance of 1.5 meters from the balcony. Here they removed the lags, closed the hole with foam, made waterproofing. After that, in place of the dismantled floor, a continuous screed was made, a warm floor was mounted on it. Then the whole room was covered with laminate. The cost of work without laying the laminate was about 9 thousand rubles, materials - 8 thousand rubles.
Cold walls in "panels"
The weak point of panel high-rise buildings is the joints between the slabs of the outer wall. They are sealed with a rubber "sausage". But over the years of the building's operation, the seams could be broken, the plugging could crack, and cold air goes into the apartment.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Very often in panel houses it can be cold due to poor condition interpanel seams... In such cases, we open from the inside to the full height, adjacent to the outer wall, the corner of the apartment, replace the padding, process the seam with a hydrophobe. Then we restore the corner of the room using plaster on the reinforcing wall. Running meter such work costs from 250 to 500 rubles.
To replace the rubber "sausage" builders today can use solid brands of mineral wool or polyurethane foam. In principle, both are valid. The main thing is not to forget, to waterproof the joint before driving.
"Layering" the wall is an extreme option
According to the Yekaterinburg builders, the methods described above for eliminating cold bridges almost always give the desired result - it becomes warm in the apartment. But sometimes the wall facing the street has to be really insulated. V apartment buildings close outer wall insulation is possible only from the inside - from the side of the apartment. You can use expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, foam glass, liquid-ceramic thermal insulation, cork wallpaper and expanded polystyrene wallpaper with thermal insulation properties.
However, according to the remarks of the executive director Alexei Rylov, some of the listed heaters should be used with caution. Wall insulation with inside leads to the fact that the main wall, cut off by the insulation from the room, cools more than before. This causes the dew point to move closer to the inner surface of the wall. The dew point is the area inside the wall that has the temperature at which steam in the pores of a brick or concrete turns into water. After installing the insulation, the dew point can reach the inner surface of the main wall or even be inside the insulation layer. It will get wet, a fungus may start, drywall will suffer from moisture, which covers the layer of thermal insulation.
According to Alexey Rylov, the use of mineral wool and similar materials is a surrogate solution. It is more correct to increase the mass of the wall by covering it from the inside with warm plaster. Even a centimeter layer of it gives a good result. Practice shows that warm plaster without any special technical tweaks, it can be applied in a layer up to 3 cm.
Alexey Zykov
Director of Binom LLC
Here's the way I personally use it. We apply a hydrophobic type "Penetron", "Penecrit", etc. to the wall. It is absorbed into concrete at 0, .4 meters. In fact, we have fixed the dew point. Further, we insulate the wall with mineral wool with a density of 150 and a thickness of at least 50 mm. Cover the cotton wool with drywall in 2 layers. Another option for insulation is with a gap of 5 mm. from the main wall we mount a wall made of foam glass blocks and put plaster on it under the grid.
Wall insulation using drywall and mineral wool will cost about 800 rubles. per sq. m. Including 500 rubles. - cost of work, 300 rubles. - materials. Insulation with cork mats will cost about the same: 400 rubles. the cost of the mat and 400 rubles. - leveling the wall with plaster.
For those who are afraid of problems with the dew point, builders are advised to mount a foil underfloor heating on the wall (under the finishing layer). It will heat the wall and move the dew point closer to the street. Watering the wall can be avoided, but the price will be increased energy costs. In addition, it will not be possible to drive a nail into such a wall.
As an alternative underfloor heating Alexey Zykov suggests using compact infrared heaters aimed at a cold wall. This method of wall insulation can be implemented by any apartment owner without the involvement of a construction team.
Ceiling insulation in an apartment is more necessary for outer floors of the house... Above the ceilings of the upper floors are either unheated technical attics or flat roofs. Here it is necessary to heat and soundproof the ceiling, to choose a material that meets these requirements.
Insulation of the basement ceiling or basement, relevant for lower floors... Here, the cold penetrates through the ceilings of the basements and basements of buildings. This also applies to private houses.
It is not always possible to insulate an apartment from the basement, attic or roof side. More often it is necessary to insulate an apartment from the side of the floor of the lower floors and from the side of the ceiling of the extreme upper apartments.
Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment from the inside for residential premises has a number of requirements SNiP 23-02-2003 "THERMAL PROTECTION OF BUILDINGS", a SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00 determines the sanitary requirements for residential buildings and premises. With the rise in prices for space heating, the demand for the service of insulating the ceiling of an apartment has increased, especially from residents of the outermost floors. The bulk of heat loss occurs in ceilings and basements. Insulation of the ceiling from the attic and from the floor are similar.
Old housing stock - apartments built in the middle or at the end of the last century have attic floors insulated bulk materials: expanded clay, slags, which, although durable, but in comparison with light heat-insulating materials, lose in terms of heat-insulating indicators and have an increased load on the attic floor.
Overhaul and reconstruction of such floors provide for diagnostics load-bearing structures, replacement, thermal insulation. The same reconstruction is carried out in private houses, when the roof and the attic are altered into an attic.
Attics have floors in the form concrete slabs, or floor joists, to which the subfloor is mounted, and between the logs it is filled up or laid thermal insulation material . A budget option- this is to increase the thickness of the layer by adding bulk materials to the previously installed insulation. Filled with an even layer of expanded clay, slag, cellulose. The second option is laying insulation between the logs. it classic version suitable for both concrete and timber floors.
(2) - insulation can be any, if the attic is uninhabited, if it is an attic, then the insulation is chosen from environmentally friendly materials: basalt wool, cellulose, eco cotton wool, expanded clay... Lags (5) are performed from edged boards 40 x 150 mm, impregnated with substances from decay.
Vapor barrier material(6) is placed on top and bottom of the insulation. Usually the logo on the films is applied on the side that does not allow steam or moisture to pass through, but if you do not know which side to lay the film on, contact the seller. The instructions are attached to the film materials. Instead of a membrane film (it is expensive), an ordinary one is laid on the plate plastic wrap or glassine. On top of the insulation, a film is needed if it is a living space.
How to insulate the ceiling in an apartment
For attic room more attention is paid to the ceiling under the roof, there is heat leakage in winter and overheating of the attic in summer. The insulation of the attic floor rather plays the role of sound insulation, and therefore the counter batten (3) serves to cushion and create a gap between the vapor barrier and the floor. This gap is necessary for ventilation and moisture evaporation from the insulation. If this cold attic, then ladders are placed on top of the logs for walking.
Insulation is chosen according to three indicators: density, thermal conductivity coefficient l -lambda and the price.
Effective in degree thermal conductivity are the materials. in which l - 0.03 - 0.06. The density of these materials is expressed in kg / m3.
For price and thermal conductivity the best insulation are: mineral wool (glass wool, stone and slag wool), cellulose, polystyrene. Expensive heaters: wood fiber, polyurethane foam, cork. Insulation on the ceiling is chosen from two functions: heat and sound insulation of the ceiling. Medium and high density board materials meet these criteria. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out with environmentally friendly materials that do not support combustion.
Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is sometimes performed not only because of heat leakage in winter, but also because heat the daytime temperature in the room reaches +30 +40 degrees and air conditioning costs empty the owner's wallet.
Step-by-step instructions for insulating the ceiling in the apartment from the inside
Ceiling concrete floor Before gluing PAROK panels or other medium density boards, prepare as follows.
Remove peeling plaster or paint from the ceiling with a metal scraper or brush. Then cracks and cracks are putty, a primer is applied. After that, an adhesive solution is prepared in a container from a dry mixture. Buy "Typhoon" quick-setting glue or other, read the instructions. Manual construction mixer or with a drill with a nozzle, dilute enough glue so that it can be consumed within 2 hours. It is not recommended to add water to the drying mixture. Dispose of leftovers.
Preparing the panels for gluing. Apply to the rough side of the panel adhesive solution... Then use a comb-type trowel to level the layer thickness. We glue the panel, starting from the far corner of the room.
In order for the panels to fit tightly to each other, they must be glued in a checkerboard pattern. A gap of 2-3 mm is left between two parallel panels narrower than the panel. Then the next panel fits snugly between them without seams.
This is what the ceiling looks like at the end of the thermal insulation.
Then there are two options, if the ceilings are high, then it is recommended to do stretch ceiling, then there is no need to glue the masking net, putty, prime, paint. In terms of cost, these works are comparable, but in terms of speed, they are not: a stretch ceiling is completed in a few hours.
Insulation of the ceiling in an apartment is also soundproofing. The best way comply with these conditions - mounting suspension system on damper suspensions with ceiling installation thermal insulation boards laminated on both sides with aluminum foil.
Plates are easily attached to the ceiling with dowels with umbrellas. Then they are decorated with tension or false ceiling... This is just for the upper floors, where you have to protect yourself from radiant heat penetrating through flat roof... Aluminum foil reflects 90% of radiant energy. These panels are delivered to order because they are hard to find on the market.
Useful video
Let's take a look at specific example how to insulate the ceiling in an apartment:
Foreword... Inhabitants apartment buildings often experience inconvenience due to insufficient wall thickness between the apartment and the entrance. V monolithic houses this leads not only to heat loss and insufficient sound insulation, which is especially felt on the ground floors of apartment buildings. We will analyze the issue of thermal insulation of the wall in the entrance on our own, consider the choice of insulation and show a video instruction.
The first thing to remember is that you need to contact the HOA or ZhEK for permission to carry out such work. The entrance is a common house property and nothing can be done here without the permission of the homeowners. Sometimes it is easier and cheaper to insulate the wall from the side of the apartment, keeping the heat in the house. In this case, a work permit will not be required, if at the same time load-bearing walls not subject to changes and dismantling.
Why is it necessary to insulate the wall at the entrance
Do I need to insulate the wall at the entrance? Sometimes it happens that the temperature at the entrance in winter drops significantly due to the fact that the entrance door is not well insulated, and there are wooden windows on the stairwells. This leads to the fact that heat losses in the apartment adjacent to the entrance increase. In this article we will tell you how to insulate the wall from the side of the entrance to the apartment on our own.
As you can see, heat and sound insulation of the entrance walls is often simply necessary, consider what inexpensive materials for thermal insulation of this structure can be used. What are the technologies of wall insulation and others vertical structures today they are used in construction. At the end of the material, we posted a video instruction on self-heat and sound insulation of walls in an apartment.
What is the best way to insulate the walls at the entrance
From the side of the entrance, sheets of foam or extrusion (foam) can be glued to the wall to be treated; they are mounted on glue and dowels. To protect against mechanical damage After installation, expanded polystyrene can be plastered, like the facade of a house. You can also make a frame and build a false wall made of plasterboard or OSB. If necessary additional noise insulation, then it is worth using mineral wool.
From the side of the apartment, it is better to use mineral wool eg URSA. Basalt and mineral heaters are inexpensive today, while this thermal insulation does not burn, is environmentally friendly and retains heat well. These are all important if you are trying to make your home environmentally friendly. The slabs are fixed to the wall on a pre-built crate, the insulation is covered with vapor barrier on top and sewn up with plasterboard or plywood.
Do-it-yourself wall insulation at the entrance
Photo. Do-it-yourself insulation of the entrance walls
You should not start work without a drill, perforator and other tool. To fix the dowel-mushrooms or the crate in the wall, it is necessary to drill into brick wall holes. If there is no way to drill the wall, then you can lay the insulation plates on the polystyrene foam glue, but this is unreliable. In addition, for reliability, mineral wool and foam slabs are additionally planted on a dowel.
If you want to end up with a more reliable and solid construction, then a crate of wooden bars should be made on the wall. The distance between the guides is made equal to the width of the thermal insulation plates; from above, sheets of drywall or OSB are attached to the guides. If you use basalt insulation, then they should be protected from moisture by laying roll waterproofing from the side of a warm room.
Insulation of the entrance wall on the first floor
How to insulate the entrance wall on the first floor? This question is often asked by the owners of apartments on the ground floors, since for many, the wall in the apartment is only 1 brick thick. In winter, such a thin design allows the cold to pass through, let alone sound insulation. Thermal insulation of the door and entrance wall on the ground floor will not only solve this problem, but also save the heat of the entire apartment building.
To use for these purposes penoplex instead of foam and mineral wool - a good option... Penoplex does not allow moisture to pass through, retains heat perfectly, in addition, it is a fairly dense and durable material, therefore it is often used not only for insulating entrance doors, but also for insulating the blind area and foundation country house... See video recommendations professional builders on this topic.
