Traditional floors from natural wood beautiful in every respect - they are environmentally friendly, easy to install, beautiful and practical. However, for all materials wooden planks are most susceptible to various deformations.

So, during operation in almost any wooden floor gaps appear between the boards. These gaps contribute to decay, a large amount of heat flows through them, dust and dirt accumulate in them. If cracks appear, they must be sealed. What is the best way to do this?

Reasons for the formation of cracks

Gaps between floorboards can form due to a variety of factors:

• Temperature deformations. Due to regular fluctuations in temperature, the tree dries out, the joints of the coating elements become wider. This is avoided by the material dried at the factory by a special method, in which all water is removed from the cells of the tree with the help of a vacuum. Ordinary boards dry for several years and during this time noticeably change in size.
• Rodents that spoil wood. Just patching up the flaws in this case is not enough, you also need to get rid of the mice, or at least not let them gnaw through the floor by getting a cat.
• Boarding errors. In this case, you need to securely fix the coating, and then cover up the cracks.
• Poor ventilation, as a result of which the tree quickly rots. Having closed the joints in this case, it will be necessary to equip ventilation grill in the wooden floor.

Modern repair methods

putty

Covering cracks in a wooden floor with putty is the easiest way, but this option is not durable. If the boards continue to move during operation, the putty will quickly crack and you will have to do it all over again. In addition, putty is very noticeable against the background of wood texture.

sealant

If the cracks are dynamic, the filling material must also be mobile and have good elasticity. To ensure this characteristic, sealants based on acrylic or silicone are used. The smearing process looks like this:

• the floor surface is cleaned and dried;
• the joints of the boards are filled with a mounting gun;
• sealant is smeared with a spatula.

Silicone sealant can be chosen in a color suitable for the floor. Acrylic sealers are also a great option. They are resistant to temperature fluctuations and high humidity, easy to sand, they can be painted and varnished. The tensile strength is very high - the gap can stretch twice without losing the integrity of the sealant.

Mounting foam

Closing the joints of the boards in the floor with this substance is very simple. All you need is a special gun and a plastic soft tube that is compressed and pushed into the slot. The foam should be distributed evenly and with little pressure. You need to act quickly, as the foam hardens almost instantly.

A narrow gap can be covered not from the inside, but by applying foam from above. It is not necessary to smear the foam with a spatula, as the material will stick tightly to the metal. Better to use wet wooden block, lubricated with soapy water. Excess foam is removed with a clerical knife after drying.

The disadvantages of foam are its ability to break down under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, porosity and dust attraction. But the layer polyurethane foam works well as a heater.

Scotch

If an additional finishing layer coatings, and the attractiveness of the seams is not important, you can simply seal the joints with construction wide adhesive tape. Its edges are fastened to the board with a stapler. Scotch tape will perfectly protect the room from drafts and cold entering through the joints of the boards.

Traditional Methods

These methods of sealing gaps have been tested by time and often turn out to be optimal.

Wooden slats

It is very easy to close the gap with a rail. The technology of the method is as follows:

• Edges of boards are processed by a manual mill.
• The slats are cut right size. It is best to take pine boards, as they are easier to process.
• The edges of the floorboards and the side edges of the lath are lubricated with an adhesive solution.
• The rail is inserted into the slot and securely fixed. The remaining unfilled gaps can be sealed with a mixture of glue and sawdust.
• The resulting surface is sanded with a belt grinder or manually. In this case, you need to protect yourself with glasses and a respirator, as a lot of dust will form.
• Masking tape is glued to the joint.
• The repaired floor is painted and varnished.
• Putty from improvised materials

An old putty recipe, according to which you can make putty with your own hands, is a sticky composition of wood resin and sawdust.

You can also mix sawdust with PVA glue. The resulting mixture adheres perfectly to the tree, and after drying it becomes very hard and durable. The only minus is the roughness of such a putty, to give a decent appearance will have to be handled carefully. sandpaper. In addition, this material darkens during operation.

A similar recipe is a mixture of varnish and wood dust.

Sewing the floor with plywood, chipboard, drywall

Other similar materials may also be used. It is recommended to close the joints of the boards in this way in the case of very wide cracks that can no longer be covered with anything. Any decorative coating can be placed on top of a layer of plywood sheets or other material.

A frame of miniature logs is formed on the old wooden floor. To do this, you need to use a beam of durable wood. Bars are installed in increments of 60 cm, depending on the thickness of the coating sheets. Under these elements, you need to put pieces of linoleum or roofing material in order to absorb the load on the floor.

It is worth considering that if the distance between the frame elements is made too large, the strength of the floor will decrease. Sheets of plywood or chipboard are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the material or at least flush with the surface. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use glue paired with nails, so sufficient reliability of the coating will also be ensured.

Gaps in the frame can be filled with insulation - for example, mineral wool. Between the plates you need to leave gaps for deformations, otherwise the floor will creak. After installation is completed, all joints and fasteners are screwed in with putty. After it dries, the floor can be varnished, painted or covered with a top coat.

Cord

This method is the fastest. Its essence is that a simple rope is laid in wide slots in a wooden floor, which is then filled with mortar. epoxy resin with cement. After the mixture has hardened, you can paint the joints.

Publication date: 28-09-2015

Often, during the operation of wooden floors, it becomes necessary to repair them, that is, to eliminate the gaps between the floorboards and get rid of the debilitating creak that occurs when walking. It can be done different ways, although in most cases it is still recommended to dismantle the old coating and completely kill it. In our article, we will look at several methods on how to close cracks in a wooden floor as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Methods for eliminating unaesthetic cracks

Wooden floor

Among the methods offered today are the most diverse, but all of them can be combined into two groups:

1. Dismantling and bulkhead floor. All boards are removed with a crowbar and a nail puller, after which whole and strong boards are selected. After that, the floor is laid again, tightly fitting and strengthening the boards to each other. This method is recommended if the gaps are very numerous and large, that is, close them conventional methods useless and inefficient.
2. Partial repair of a wooden floor, during which all gaps are filled and individual floorboards are tightly fitted. This method is recommended when the number of slots is small and the floorboards are mostly in good condition. Sealing gaps in this case is carried out using special mixtures or mounting foam. If their width is quite large, then you can use wooden wedges that completely fill the space between the floorboards.

Consider separate options that exclude the dismantling of the entire floor and allow you to quickly and very effectively close up all the cracks and eliminate the unpleasant creak.

For the first method, we need to prepare the usual wallpaper glue and small sawdust, which are mixed until a homogeneous, very thick mixture is obtained. Usually such a mixture is kneaded in a large container, using a wooden stick for this.

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Sawdust and glue against cracks

First, sawdust is poured into the bucket, which are poured with boiling water and mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

It is necessary to leave the resulting mass to cool and swell for about an hour and a half, only then carefully add glue to it. The mixture is kneaded until it sticks to the stick and acquires a viscous consistency.

Before starting work, all cracks are cleaned, dust and debris must be completely removed from them. The resulting mixture is applied with a spatula. After that, the surface is leveled. The putty should dry for about two to three days, after which the repair site is sanded to a smooth state.

The second method involves the use of a stronger mixture, consisting of wood glue, cement, small sawdust. To do this, it is necessary to boil two parts of wood tile glue and fifteen parts of water until the entire mixture is completely dissolved, after which five parts of sawdust and five parts of cement are added to it. To give the desired color to the solution, you can add pigment or thickly rubbed oil paint.

All cracks in the floor must be cleaned and lubricated before repair work. adhesive solution. The resulting mixture should only be applied when hot. After it has completely hardened, the surface of the repaired area is polished until all bumps, scratches and roughness disappear. For complete drying of such a mixture, it takes about two weeks, only after this period, the floors can be thoroughly washed.

The same mixture is used when it is necessary to repair recessed nail heads before flooring or to give the floor a smooth, even appearance.

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Paste and bitumen against cracks in the floor

Putty to eliminate gaps can also be made from a mixture based on paper, reminiscent of the papier-mâché technique. The materials for this are the simplest: old newspapers and paste. The mixture is made in this way: the paper is torn into small pieces and poured hot water, after which a paste is prepared separately with a small addition of simple wood glue.

The paste itself is prepared simply: flour and starch should be added to boiling water and the resulting mixture should be boiled in a conventional water bath.

The paper swells during this time. After cooking, excess water is drained, and the remaining mixture is added to the paste. The consistency should resemble thick window putty. The cracks are completely filled with this mass; when washing the floors, it does not soak. This method is used in order to be able to close up small gaps before painting.

For elimination large cracks in a wooden floor, more complex methods are used:

1. The soft method is as follows: wood glue twine is soaked. Then, using a wedge and a hammer, it is caulked into the cleaned slot. As soon as the glue polymerizes (it takes about a day), all irregularities are filled with putty and leveled.
2. The hard method involves the use of wooden wedges or planks that are hammered into the cracks. In this case, it is necessary to carefully adjust such strips in size, they must completely cover the gap, leaving no gaps.

Also often used are methods such as filling cracks with hot bitumen, laying sheets of plywood or chipboard over the floor. These are reliable methods that give a long-term effect, but they are too radical, in most cases it is much easier, more effective and cheaper to use the two methods indicated above.

Floor coverings

How to close the cracks in the wooden floor of a summer house or apartment?

From the author: Good day! To everyone who plans to start repairs soon and is waiting for a special sign - here it is. It's time to pick Decoration Materials and stock up on free time. For many, the question of how to close the cracks in the wooden floor, if they appeared, becomes relevant without spending the entire family budget on this event. Today I will tell you how the repair took place at my dacha, I will give advice and recommendations that will allow you to choose methods and materials.

When you need to fill gaps in new and old floors

The wooden floor is installed in country houses, it is also available in old apartments. That is why the question of how to cover up the gaps formed in it worries many homeowners. In most cases, repair work should begin at the moment when creaking or crackling becomes clearly audible when walking. The main reason is cracked or poorly executed installation finish coating if the problem occurs in a newly built home.

It is important to remember that the elimination of coating defects with your own hands requires attention and accuracy. If there are no repair skills, then you can consult with specialists, and only then proceed to the main stages.

Variety of putties

The better to cover up holes in wood - this question arises in the minds of many people who choose material for further work. In order not to get confused in the modern variety, as it was with me, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the most popular types of compositions:

• putties for wood;
• silicone sealant;
• acrylic sealant;
• wax oil.

If the gaps are wide, then you will need to use PVA glue in addition to the selected composition. Now more about each putty. When choosing putty, it should be remembered that it is relatively short-lived. Most often, it is used for cosmetic repairs or to hide a small gap. A large number of them are best treated with other compositions so that the floor looks aesthetically pleasing.

Silicone sealant differs from other putty options in that it retains a certain percentage of elasticity when cured. To work, use special device- mounting syringe. It allows you to reduce the time of the main work and economically spend the composition, achieving High Quality. It is important to remember the peculiarity of this sealant - for some time after application, a slight smell of vinegar will remain in the room.

I recommend choosing acrylic sealant for those who are sensitive to odors, since this composition does not have it at all. Also, it is easy to process, if required. Acrylic sealant can be painted, sanded and even varnished if desired - it will not lose its properties.

A source: http://sure-seal.co.uk

Linseed oil and wax is not only good way fix any imperfections wood flooring but also enhance its aesthetic appeal. The ratio of components should be equal (1:1). The peculiarity of the composition is that it is poured into the existing hole in the floor hot.

The advantage of using it is that oil and wax provide additional thermal insulation, but actively collect dust and dirt particles, so the floor should be additionally covered with carpet or other covering.

If aesthetics is not the basis in repair work, then you can fix all the flaws using ordinary construction tape, fastened around the edges with a stapler. Reliability will be low, but drafts and unpleasant odors are guaranteed to disappear.

Budget Savings: Affordable Compounds

The answer to the question of how to cover up holes on a wooden surface, if the budget is limited, has been found. One of the simplest and most affordable compositions is a paste mixed with paper. For manufacturing, you will need to weld a paste - grind the paper and soak it in water, and then mix the components. After that, the composition is ready for use.

You can get rid of the gaps in the floorboards by using PVA glue and sawdust. It is best to choose small sawdust for this purpose, as they will need to be soaked in water. It is important to achieve a uniform composition (mix sawdust and water, leaving to swell for 2-3 hours). After that, glue is added to the resulting mass (carpentry is allowed), everything is mixed. Mass should fill all the spaces between the boards (they must be clean).

Another proven and reliable way to get rid of cracks is to use a cord or tourniquet. Before laying it in the available space, it should be moistened with glue. Efficiency will be high, since creaking will additionally disappear.

Other Ways to Repair Wood Flooring

The relevance of the question of how to putty the floor will disappear if you know that there are a lot of materials that can cope with the problem. The floor in my dacha was restored thanks to the use of slats and wedges. This method requires a certain amount of time and attention, since all the elements used must be carefully adjusted to the available spaces.

It will be necessary not only to create a wedge from the rail, to clean all the dirt from the space, but also to apply glue (carpentry or PVA). Similar steps are taken with all existing flaws that require repair. Also, tow is used to seal spaces, and for rooms in which it is not planned to live permanently, you can use one of the most simple ways elimination of shortcomings - put on top.

This approach will temporarily solve the problem or close up wide gaps if the material is cut to certain sizes. Also, plywood will avoid damage to the new floor - if the boards begin to swell and bumps form, sheets should be laid on them and covered with carpet.

In this way, possible materials and there are many methods that allow, with varying degrees of reliability, to correct the shortcomings that have appeared. Choice suitable option depends on many factors, including not only the concept of beauty and quality, but also financial well-being. I hope that the above options for the compositions and materials will help you in the fight against the trouble that has arisen.

Find out about all the latest in the field of repair country houses and cottages, apartments and outbuildings will allow a subscription to our groups in social networks. Good luck with your renovations, see you soon.

Very often, before painting the floor, the question arises of how to repair the floor. During the service, the boards dry out, begin to creak, and this is absolutely normal. As technology advances, methods become even more perfect. Therefore, when it becomes necessary to eliminate a defect, you just need to choose the method that you like best.

The general scheme for eliminating cracks:

• Prepare materials.
• Clear cracks.
• Fill them in.
• The material must dry.
• Sand, remove imperfections.
• Paint.

Varieties of floor reconstruction

Repair of a wooden floor can be divided into:

• Dismantling and enumeration of all floorboards. Such major work should begin if the crevices have reached enormous sizes. The boards must be carefully and carefully sorted out, unevenly dried edges should be planed, leaving only whole and strong floorboards.
• Partial dismantling. It is carried out when wide holes and squeaks appear.
• Seal a small number of medium-sized gaps. Used most often.

Methods

It should be remembered that between the boards there is always a little space left for ventilation and in case of natural expansion of the boards. If the gaps become too large, then they need to be repaired.

1. Construction foam. Cracks can be patched construction foam. First you need to dismantle the plinth, then clean the cracks, and then foam them. Under the foam, you can lay a little foam. After drying, remove excess foam, and putty on top for tightness.
2. Glue + sawdust. Troubleshooting is done using adhesive compositions. There are two types:

• Wood chips swell for two hours in boiling water, then mix well. Pour PVA or wood glue into the swollen mass and knead until a viscous consistency appears. The mixture is applied to the cleaned surface, carefully rammed into the gap, but without effort. After complete hardening, remove irregularities, for example, process with sandpaper.
• You can make a mixture of glue, cement and sawdust. Coloring agents can be mixed into the composition. The method can still be used to create a perfectly smooth floor.

3. Wood putty. If they small size and no desire to cook repair mixes, then you can buy putty. It is important to take into account the nuance: over time, the putty cracks. It is optimal to use it if, as a result, the floor is covered with plywood.

4. Paste and paper. The lightest and inexpensive way. The paper is filled with water. While it swells, a paste is being prepared, it must be added blue vitriol(approximately 1:10). Vitriol will prevent the reproduction of insects. Then the paper pulp is squeezed out, added to the paste and mixed.

5. Cord. Long proven folk way, is used to eliminate cracks not only on the floor, but also in wooden walls. First you need to pick up the ropes of the required diameter and length. Coat the cord with glue. Then putty, sawdust and glue are mixed. The rope is deepened into the crevice, and the remaining space is filled with the prepared mixture.

6. Wedges. Sufficient hard way, implying that the slots will be clogged with thin slats, which are hewn to look like a wedge. It is very important to correctly and accurately fit the wedges to the size of the gaps. The wedge and the slot must be treated with glue, then the rail should be glued into the slot, knocked out with a rubber mallet. If the wedge has not entered completely, then the excess material can be removed with a planer.

Other repair methods

Other materials can be purchased at hardware stores and other methods can be used to remove gaps.

• Tow . A well-known linen material that has not lost its demand even against the background of the emergence of new modern compositions. Tow can be tamped into the cracks with any improvised means. For reliability, it must be treated with wood glue.
• Cement and epoxy. Two ingredients are mixed in equal proportions, perfect for masking small cracks. It is necessary to pour the mixture, taking into account the fact that after drying there will be natural subsidence.
• Plywood . Last resort when there are too many of them. Plywood is fastened with self-tapping screws and immediately covers all the imperfections of the floor.
• Sealant with a nozzle in the form of a syringe. Acrylic and silicone-based sealants are perfect. They close cracks without any effort. It is a material with a long service life, very reliable and proven.

Cracks in the wooden floor can occur at any time in any part of it. Before starting work, it is necessary to evaluate the materials to eliminate the shortcomings, the places of their localization and disassemble the technology of work to eliminate the shortcomings of the floor in stages.

Wood, though warm, but capricious floor material. None of the laying methods guarantees the absence of gaps between the planks in the future. In the article we will tell you how to close the cracks in the wooden floor.

As you know, a tree not only changes its linear dimensions as a result of changes in temperature and humidity, but also dries out over time. In addition, rodents can contribute to the appearance of cracks and holes in the floor. In any case, repairs are required:

• Cosmetic - the gaps are closed with various compounds or inserts.
• Partial - replacement of a damaged board or small area;
• Full - bulkhead boarding or total replacement of the coating.

How to seal cracks in a wooden floor? The most common way is to fill the seams with the help of special ready-made compounds:

• sealants;
• Wood putties;
• Construction foam, etc.

Mixing homemade putty composition.

Instead of building chemicals, you can prepare home-made mixtures for sealing a gap in the floor. The composition, as a rule, consists of two components - a binder (glue, paint) and a filler (sawdust, gypsum).

The next method is a little more laborious - the elimination of wide gaps between the boards, as well as between the coating and the wall by sealing. In this case, strips of wood, polystyrene, special caulking cords, etc. are used. Effective and practical, but in some cases requires additional fitting and subsequent varnishing or staining.

The last way, the most expensive and costly, is to replace the floorboards with cracks and other damages with a new one, suitable in size and tone.

The exact method for eliminating defects is selected based on the width of the seams, the nature of the damage, etc. Let's consider in more detail.

Filling semi-liquid compounds for sealing cracks

In any series of construction chemicals from Russian or foreign manufacturer there are tools for woodworking. They are great for fixing minor imperfections. Including:

Pigmented silicone sealants

Used for gaps up to 1 cm wide, have good adhesion to wood. After application, the composition must be leveled with plastic or rubber spatula. As a result of polymerization, an elastic, non-shrinking seam is formed, which is resistant to water and household chemicals. A special advantage is the durability of the plastic composition, which does not crumble and does not fall out due to seasonal expansion and drying of the floorboards.

The color shown on the label may not match the actual color, so ask the store for a color display stand. These are samples finished products made by the manufacturer.

Paintable acrylic sealants

A good analogue of the previous tool, but with a slight difference. After application, the white paste polymerizes for 1 hour, then it can be painted. Very convenient way repair of floors covered with alkyd or oil enamel.

Gypsum tinted putties

Familiar to buyers compositions on water or oil based for gaps up to 1-2 cm wide. Apply with a spatula, carefully compacted. Material shrinks and may require re-application followed by smoothing. The puttied dried surface must be sanded with sandpaper.

After drying, the finished putty brightens by 1-2 tones, so when buying, you need to choose a darker composition.

The disadvantage of this tool is its fragility. After a year, maximum two, the seam begins to crack, crumble, absorb dirt. The material is in steady demand mainly because of the price. The cost of a small package from VGT or Novbytchim is only 50-60 rubles.

Epoxy putties

Semi-liquid fast-hardening compositions based on polymer resin. As a rule, these are two-component compounds, which after drying form the strongest (inelastic) seam. The coefficient of adhesion of this material to wood is unusually high, moreover, unlike conventional fillers, the hardened mass does not crumble. Accordingly, next year you won’t have to look for how to cover up the floor defect again.

Epoxy grouts are used for narrow gaps no more than 3-7 mm wide, applied with a spatula. The shrinkage coefficient is small, so there is no need for re-treatment.

Polyester pastes are colorless or white

One- or two-component quick-hardening polymeric grouts for sealing gaps between boards with a width of not more than 5 mm. The mixture is suitable for old floor coverings, as it forms a strong, rigid seam. After application, the surface is leveled with a flexible spatula, staining in the color of the main floor is allowed.

We have listed the ready-made compositions. In search of how to putty the cracks in the wooden floor, craftsmen often used such means as;

• polyurethane foam (pieces of polystyrene foam, cuttings of fiberboard, etc. are inserted into the gap as a frame);
• a mixture of small sawdust and PVA or oil enamel;
• composition of cement and epoxy adhesive, and the like.

There are many options for home-made putties for sealing gaps; they are formed according to the “what is at hand” principle. The most reliable and proven, according to experienced craftsmen, is a mixture of wood flour and PVA. A thick paste is prepared from these components, which is applied with a spatula and carefully leveled. The surface after drying and polishing can be coated with a protective varnish.

Sealing gaps by sealing

If the boards "play" and the width of the gaps exceeds 1-2 cm, it is recommended to use inserts. They will help to firmly fix the floorboards, remove squeaks. The first and long-tested tool in this case is thin slat-wedges.

How compaction is carried out:

1. The gap must be cleaned of debris, a little embroidered. Remove skirting boards and other decorative moldings no need.
2. Measure the width, make a wedge of the appropriate dimensions from the rail.
3. Apply PVA or wood glue to the floorboards and the insert.
4. Drive the rail tightly into the seam with a mallet or an ordinary hammer using a tamping bar.
5. Remove the protruding surface with sandpaper or a planer.
6. Sand the sealed floor with fine-grained emery tape and cover with varnish or paint.

As a temporary remedy for overhaul floor, you can use a sealing cord. It is designed to close gaps in log houses up to 3-5 cm wide. It is a kind of rope made of foamed polyethylene, rubber or tow. It is not difficult to work with this type of material: the product must be carefully tamped into the gap with a chisel and a hammer. And so that the seam does not stand out too much from the rest of the floor, a thin layer of tinted sealant, putty or a mixture of sawdust and PVA is applied to the surface.

Local replacement of the damaged area

What to do if mice have gnawed through the floor, and the gap in the wall-floor area exceeds 5-10 cm in width. Neither putties, nor sealants, nor even sealing ropes will help in this case. You can close the top with a piece of plywood or chipboard, but such a blotch will just interfere and stand out too much. The best option– replacement of a board or a small section of the floor.

To prevent the repaired floor from becoming a victim of rodents again, some masters recommend starting by creating a “barrier” for mice. In particular, under the coating in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mouse move, you can pour cement mortar mixed with broken glass or iron filings.

The next step is to remove all skirting boards, and cut out the damaged area or plank with the appropriate power tool. New parts are glued or nailed to the base with hardware.

The last stage is grinding, or better, a complete scraping of the floor, followed by varnishing or painting. If the shades of the floorboards differ by more than 2 tones, you can try toning the planks with stain or protective and decorative azures.

When severe spoilage the entire floor area, some experts suggest sewing on top of the tree sheet materials- plywood, chipboard, OSB and others. This is a good option, but only if you intend to lay a new one on top. top coat resistant to abrasion, dirt, shock.

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