How to twist a profile for drywall. Installation of a frame for drywall

Today, with the help of gypsum plasterboard structures, you can quickly and efficiently level the surface of walls and ceilings, create smooth single-level or unusual multi-level suspended ceilings, non-standard curved or maximally flat partitions. The basis of any such structure is a reliable frame, which must be carried out in strict accordance with technology, in accordance with applicable standards and rules. Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for drywall can be performed by any craftsman and amateur who knows how to handle a screwdriver and simple construction tools.

Preparatory work

Plasterboard profiles are made of durable galvanized steel. It is easy to work with them in any even the most difficult conditions, with significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The main thing is, at the preparatory stage, to decide on the type of structure, its design and drawings of all connecting elements, on the basis of which you should purchase high-quality materials and prepare all the necessary tools.

Depending on the type of work planned, modern manufacturers offer several types of different profiles:

Rack. They have a special central recess that reinforces the profile and helps to find the exact place for fixing the screws during the installation of the structure.
Guides. They have strong corrugated walls of increased rigidity. Ordinary consumers call such profiles "P-sheaves" for their design features. They are used in conjunction with rack profiles, so their parameters for selection and cutting must match.

Ceiling. For the arrangement of frame ceiling structures, special ceiling profiles are produced, which simultaneously have three grooves, with the help of which the most accurate centering of suspensions and screws is performed.

In addition to profiles, you should purchase special components, without which it is impossible to install a high-quality profile for drywall with your own hands.

Depending on the volume of work performed, you should buy suspensions and rods, brackets, anchors, dowels and self-tapping screws. From tools and equipment, you should prepare:

Special scissors for cutting metal elements.
Screwdriver or hammer drill (depending on the structure of the walls to which the profile will be attached).
Building level.
Laser level or plumb line.

Having prepared the required amount of basic and consumable material in accordance with the selected design and scope of work, they begin to perform installation work.

The procedure for installing a profile for drywall

Consumers have already appreciated the wall leveling frames, with which you can quickly equip even and structural surfaces with niches and columns. On the basis of pre-developed drawings, the surface is marked. Having departed from the corner, draw a straight line on the adjacent wall using a building ruler or level. This is the border of the entire structure, taking into account the thickness of the guide profile and sheets of gypsum board. As a rule, this parameter is 40-50 mm. From the baseline, the markings are transferred to the ceiling using a laser level or a plumb line.

After applying the markings, the phased assembly of the frame begins. First, guide profiles are installed, which are initially fixed with screws and dowels to the floor surface, and then to the ceiling.

Having mounted the guide elements, direct suspensions are attached, with the help of which the rack profiles will be installed. The hangers are fixed to the wall with dowels at a distance of no more than 800-1000 mm. Then all vertical guides are installed, which are inserted into the cavities of the lower and upper profile.

When carrying out work, it is imperative to control the correct location of the structure in level with the help of a vertical plumb bob. After making sure that the frame structure is installed evenly, you should complete the fastening of all elements completely. The frame device can be additionally strengthened with jumpers, which should be cut from rack-mount profiles.

Before fixing the plasterboard sheets, insulation, sound insulation, steam and waterproofing can be laid in the finished frame structure. The type of insulating materials and their thickness depend entirely on the type of wall and the tasks to be performed.

To increase the sound insulation of the frame system, many craftsmen use high-strength polyethylene film, which is overlapped between the profiles.

Roll materials or soft mats are usually used as effective thermal insulation. They are easy to cut and fit, fixed with a special stapler or tape.

If you are interested in how to attach drywall to the ceiling, then you can find out.

Video

This video shows the process of installing profiles for drywall.

Rare repairs do today without drywall. But drywall sheets, and in common parlance GKL, cannot hang in the air. They need a reliable frame made of profiles and a craftsman to assemble it.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation is based on metal profiles. They are divided into types of PS, PN and PP.

There is one secret in the world that all repairmen in the world hide from ordinary people. Whatever they do, you can do it too. Both the installation of drywall and the installation of a structure from profiles can be done by an ordinary average person with his own hands. You just need to start.

Step one - plan of the future premises

The plan should be done in advance, marking on it where the outlet needs to be installed and where the switch is. Keep in mind that the plan will help you calculate how many profiles will be required to make the renovation.

It is better to immediately think about what kind of furniture you want to put in the room. At least one outlet will have to be made in front of the sofa, because they usually put a TV there. But we put household appliances on a table or on special furniture, and we will mount another socket exactly there.

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Step two - profile selection and tool preparation

The profiles are used to form the required frames of various designs for fastening drywall.

While drawing a plan, you need to decide which profile is required for the premises.

For reference: the profile is a galvanized steel gutter with a U-shaped section.

Profile classification:

PS, rack-mounted profile. Section dimensions - 50 (65, 75, 100) × 50 mm. Length - 3 m; 3.5 m; 4 m.
PN, guide profile. Section dimensions - 50 (60, 75, 100) × 40 mm. Length 3 m.
PP, ceiling profile. Section size - 60 × 27 mm.
PPN, profile ceiling guide. Section size - 28 × 27 mm.
PU, angular profile. Section size - 25 × 25 mm, 31 × 31 mm.
PM, beacon profile. Comb height - 6 mm, 10 mm.

Installation of a wall or partition is usually carried out using PS and PN profiles. They allow you to freely embed thermal insulation into the walls and carry out any communications, hiding them behind a plasterboard covering. But if there is no need for communications, but it is desirable to preserve the area of the room as much as possible, then PP and PPN intended for the ceiling can be used for the walls. Their thickness is only 2.7 mm, which gives a noticeable gain in space.

Ceiling PP and PPN, as you might guess from the name, are usually used for suspended ceilings.

PU, angular profile, serves to protect the outer corners of gypsum plasterboard structures. It is "planted" on top of drywall directly on the putty.

Beacon profile, PM, helps to level the wall.

The laser level is designed for precise marking of the room.

The number of the PN guide profile can be easily calculated based on our requests. As for the rack-mount profile, PS, then it must be installed around the perimeter with a step of 60 cm.If in the future they plan to cover drywall with tiles, the step for the PS should be already 40 cm.Taking this into account and measuring the height of the wall, it is easy to find out how much of it will be required ...

There is one more thing to consider. Window and door openings will require separate frames. Drywall should converge at the edges above doors and windows, there should be no seams at the corners.

To mount the structure, you will need the following tool:

Laser level (for the ceiling - water, with a length of 2 m).
Building level, painting rule, 2 m.
Rotary hammer with drills.
Cordless screwdriver, best of all cordless.
Screwdriver, pliers.
Cutter (optional).
Scissors for metal.
Plasterboard hacksaw.
Rough planer for chamfering drywall edges.

To complete the installation of the profile, you will also need:

self-tapping screws for metal, 11 mm and 25 mm;
dowels for concrete;
profile extensions (if the wall height is greater than the length of the rack-mount profile);
suspensions are straight.

Please note that it is best to take self-tapping screws white, covered with paint: they do not oxidize.

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Step three - marking lines for mounting profiles

Correctly done markup is fifty percent of the successful completion of installation work.

In order to mark the lines along which you will install structures from profiles, you will need:

a marking cord, which can be bought at any building materials store;
a marker that can draw on any surface;
square and construction tape 5 m;
laser level.

First, you need to outline the line along which the new drywall wall will pass. If the goal from the very beginning was to smooth out uneven walls, you should find the most protruding point of the wall and place a mark from it along the perpendicular. The distance between the mark and the wall should be equal to the width of the profile you have chosen, plus another 2-3 mm. Then choose one of the corners in which you put another mark at the same distance from this wall. Now, with the help of a tape measure and a marking cord, lay a line along the floor, focusing on these 2 marks.

Line marking scheme for the subsequent installation of profiles.

Mark the exact same line on the ceiling. And draw lines directly on the wall, in front of which the rack profiles will stand. The distance between them should be 60 cm.

Now we apply the marks by which you will attach straight suspensions to the wall, at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other. The labels should lie on the lines of the rack profiles. It is the suspensions that will hold the rack profiles.

So that subsequently the attachments of the suspensions do not coincide with the crossbars, it is better to make the first marks for them at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor.

The whole subsequent installation of the profile will depend on how you apply the markup.

Try to do everything right, carefully double-check each line. Please note that do-it-yourself repairs require millimeter accuracy!

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Step four - mounting the guides

Guide profile (PN), guide profile for the ceiling (PNP), post profile (PS), ceiling profile (PP), as well as corner profile (PU).

If you did the markup correctly, installing the guides with your own hands will be a simple matter.

First, prepare the guide profiles for installation. On the back, which will be in contact with the floor, as well as on the side on which we will attach the drywall, you need to put a self-adhesive tape "Dichtungsbant". Alternatively, you can attach any porous polymer (foam rubber) tape there. Thus, you will make soundproofing with your own hands.

Then we put the guide profile on the floor so as to put it between the markings and the wall. The outer edge of the profile is aligned with the marking line. And we fasten the PN to the floor with concrete dowels at a distance of 25 cm from each other. The guide profile should be fixed to the ceiling in the same way.

We set the ends of the guides end-to-end. They do not put any special connections, dowels around the edges are enough.

But you need to check your work all the time with the level and the painting rule. The guide profiles must be fixed to the floor evenly so that the installation of the structure goes right.

To prevent the repair from being damaged by an uneven floor, pieces of plywood should be placed on the potholes under the profile.

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Step five - installation of rack profiles

We prepare rack profiles with our own hands. Their length should be equal to the distance from floor to ceiling minus 3-5 mm. Considering that the PS (that is, the rack-mount profile) is available in different lengths, you need to either cut off too long profiles, or build them up with a special extension cord. We fasten the extension with self-tapping screws for metal.

Drywall installation technology. The profile is fixed to the ceiling and floor with dowels.

By the way, for better sound insulation, you can put the porous self-adhesive "Dichtungsbant" on the rack profiles. The tape should be fixed on the edge that the drywall will subsequently close.

Now we decide in which direction the backs of the profiles will look. Remember the profile section? So, the profiles have 2 sides and one back. There are 3 longitudinal grooves on the lateral sides. Above the one in the middle, there should be a seam between the sheets of drywall. We fasten drywall to the side grooves with 25 mm self-tapping screws.

But there is an important condition regarding installation. The first is always the plasterboard sheet coming from the back of the profile.

And only then we attach the adjacent sheet, coming from the edge of the lateral side. Otherwise, drywall can give a "wave" at the joints. In this case, do-it-yourself repairs will no longer be successful, right?

The installation instructions for drywall provide for checking the accuracy of the installation of the ceiling profile using a level.

To avoid this, you should choose where you start attaching drywall to the structure. For example, this will be the left side of the left wall. So, we put the rack profiles so that their backs look at the same angle from where you will start installing drywall.

Now, having decided on the position of the profiles, you need to put them vertically, with their ends in the guides. And begin to attach direct hangers to the wall with dowels, following the marks.

We bend the straps of the suspensions and fasten the rack profiles to them with self-tapping screws. Now we cut off the edges of the suspensions.

PS, if desired, can be attached to the guide profile with a simple cut using a cutter. This tool is a good help when you want to make repairs with your own hands without any problems.

Plasterboard finishing solves many problems. In particular, any surface can be leveled in a short time. An integral part of the plasterboard construction is a frame made of galvanized profiles. How to fix a profile for drywall will be discussed in our article.

There is no need to carry out special surface preparation work. The only thing that needs to be taken care of in advance is the future location of outlets, switches and furniture. This greatly affects the amount of purchased material.

The profile itself for gypsum cardboard is made of galvanized steel, which has sufficient strength. With this material, you can work without problems at various temperatures and humidity.

The purchase of profiles is carried out based on the type of structure being created. There are such types of material:

rack-mount;
guides;
ceiling.

Rack products have a special recess in the center, due to which the maximum strength of the frame from the profile for drywall is achieved and the exact location of the screws is determined.

The guide profiles have strong walls that have increased rigidity. When buying this material, the dimensions of the rack-mount profiles must be taken into account.

When finishing the ceiling, ceiling profiles are purchased. They have three grooves, due to which the most precise fixation of the suspensions is achieved.

The step of fastening and the dimensions of the profile for drywall is directly influenced by the load that the finishing material will be subjected to in the future. Fixation of adjacent rack profiles is made at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. If subsequently the drywall is planned to be faced with ceramic tiles, then the step is reduced to 0.4 m.

It should also be noted that the presence of door and window openings will require the creation of a separate lathing. When laying drywall, there should be no seams at the corners of the openings, and adjacent sheets should be in contact with the extreme part above the window or door.

Particular attention is paid to the acquisition of self-tapping screws. They should be light colored (covered with paint). Black screws will oxidize.

Surface marking

Before installing the profile for drywall, you need to mark the surface. To carry out this process, you should use:

laser level;
chopping cord;
tape measure;
marker.

Lines are drawn immediately, which serve as a guideline for creating a new plasterboard wall. If there is an uneven wall, the most protruding surface is selected, from which a point is marked perpendicularly. The distance between it and the wall is equal to the width of the profile, to which 2-3 mm is added.

Another mark is made near one of the corners at the same distance from the wall. With the help of a chopping cord, lines are drawn between the two marks on the ceiling, floor and walls. This determines the location of the rack profiles.

Next, there is the application of marks intended for fastening direct suspensions. They are located in increments of 0.4-0.5 m. The marked points are placed on the line where the rack-mount profile is located. To prevent contact of the extreme hangers with the guide profiles, they should be installed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling and floor.

The quality of fastening the rack-mount profiles will depend on the correct installation of the suspensions. After carrying out the marking work, you can safely proceed to the installation of profiles for drywall.

Installation of profiles

First, the guide profiles are mounted. They are laid on the floor along the walls. The outer part of the profiles is aligned with the marking line. The profiles are fixed to the floor. For this, dowels are used, which are screwed in with a step of 20-25 cm.

A similar procedure is carried out on the ceiling. The ends of the guide profiles are butt-mounted. Moreover, the installation of a profile for drywall does not provide for the use of special fasteners. It is enough just to screw in the dowels along the edges of the guides.

After that, you can proceed with the installation of rack-mount profiles. This process begins by creating blanks of the required size. The length of the rack profiles is equal to the distance from the ceiling to the floor, reduced by 3-4 mm.

When installing with your own hands a profile for drywall, it should be borne in mind that the first sheathing sheet is fastened to the wide side (back) of the galvanized material. That is, the installation of the profiles is carried out in such a way that the backs are located exactly in the place where the installation of drywall sheets begins.

The installation procedure itself involves the implementation of the following actions:

the ends of the rack profiles are inserted into the guide profiles;
they must be located in a vertical plane;
the hangers are attached along the line of the profiles;
suspension bands are bent;
with the help of self-tapping screws, rack profiles are fixed to the suspensions;
the protruding part of the suspensions is cut off or bent.

At the final stage of installing the profile for drywall on the walls, the frame structure is reinforced in places where an increase in the load on the cladding material is expected. For this, transverse profiles are mounted.

After measuring the distance between the rack profiles, the cross-section blanks are cut. When carrying out this process, on both sides of the profile, pieces of the back of the material with a length of up to 10 cm should be left. Only two narrow parts of the profile are cut off.

The rest of the backrest will snap directly to the upright profile. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. The back of the profile should be directed in the direction where the first drywall sheet will be mounted.

With a standard width of the plasterboard sheet of 1.2 m, the installation pitch of the transverse profiles is 0.3-0.4 m. When installing the frame under the plasterboard, there should be no cross-shaped joints.

After creating the frame, the space between the profiles is insulated (if necessary) and sheathed with plasterboard.

Other features of the frame device

A variety of designs can be created from drywall. One of the most common designs is a two-level ceiling.

When assembling the frame for such a ceiling, the second layer of guides and rack profiles is attached. They are connected to the main profiles in a cruciform manner. To do this, use U-shaped fasteners (popularly called "pawns").

When working with profiles, you can face such a problem as the arrangement of internal and external corners. With the complete assembly of the metal frame, the presence of an internal corner does not make it possible to mount the rack-mount profiles on the adjoining wall.

In order to build a high-quality frame in the inner corner, it is necessary to fix an additional rack to the main rack profiles. The step of its fastening with self-tapping screws is 25-30 cm. Both profiles must be located in the same plane.

For the device of the outer corner, it is not necessary to connect two adjacent profiles. They are simply mounted on both sides of the corner. The fixing of the rack profiles is carried out on the ceiling, wall and floor. Which will greatly improve the reliability of the structure.

In some cases, when building complex architectural elements (arches, openings, niches), you need to create a semicircular frame. This is done quite simply. With the help of metal scissors, small wedges are cut in the guide profiles, which bend and fold in a circle.

Video about installing profiles for drywall:

The organization of work on the installation of a profile for drywall with your own hands involves a whole series of operations related to the preparation of a reliable base for the drywall covering. To solve the problem, you can use one of the most common methods, namely frameless and frame technologies for laying drywall sheets.

Elements of frame structures

The essence of the frameless method of laying drywall is to stick sheets of material on an absolutely smooth surface using a special gypsum glue. Modern technologies for arranging decorative coatings involve the preparation of a frame structure from profiles, which is then sheathed with plasterboard sheets. For the assembly of such structures, special bearing profiles are used, as well as fasteners of one type or another. In construction practice, there are several types of profiles used to equip the crate for drywall:

CB profiles (vertical or rack-mount) used for the manufacture of partitions;
guide profiles such as UV and UD, used as horizontal frame elements;
ceiling profiles SD, intended for the manufacture of the base of the frame.

In addition, to prepare the frame, you will definitely need the following connecting elements:

U-shaped hangers used to fix the LED profiles on the mounted base;
cross-type connectors used to cross-connect LED profiles located at the same level;
U-shaped connectors used to cross-connect LED profiles at different levels;
T-shaped hanging brackets with special clips, used to equip a false ceiling frame.

Before the installation of the profile structures, the location of the guides of the future frame is marked, which determine the positioning of the entire structure as a whole. At the end of the marking, the guides are attached to the supporting base using dowels, and then connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws. Note that the preparation of the frame for drywall is carried out when arranging structures of the following type:

single-level suspended ceiling frame;
two-level suspended frame;
wall partitions with one or two rows of uprights.

Let's consider each of these options for arranging the frame in more detail.

One-level and two-level hanging frames

A single-level frame structure is usually used in cases where it is desirable to maintain the specified height of the room after the manufacture of the false ceiling. During the installation process, the frame elements are attached to the ceiling base using special suspension brackets, while the cross rails are placed in the gaps between the main profiles. As the basic guides, standard ceiling profiles of the LED are used, fastened together with cross-shaped connectors.

Installation of the suspended part of the system begins with the fact that UD profiles are fixed on its walls along the perimeter of the room (the deviation from the ceiling or the depth of the suspended structure is selected locally). Note that the correctness of the installation of the UD profiles should be checked using a building level of one type or another.

After the wall structural elements are fixed, you can proceed to the installation of the main guides, the ends of which are fixed in the grooves of the UD profiles. After fixing them, it will be possible to tackle the transverse guides, installed in increments of 40-50 cm.The main guides are usually installed every 50-100 cm.

The assembly of the frame for a two-level ceiling is carried out in the same way, with the only difference that the transverse guides are transferred to another level. At the same time, U-shaped connectors are used to attach them to the main guides at the intersection points. When arranging such ceilings, drywall sheets are laid along the line of the main guides.

Frames for partitions

In this case, the installation of a profile for drywall with your own hands begins with the installation and fixation on the walls of the already familiar UV guides, which form the binding of the future partition. In the grooves of the profile trim with a step of 30-50 cm, CB profiles (rack elements) are strictly vertically fixed.

In order to improve the sound insulation of the structure, the attachment points of all its elements are sealed with a special insulating tape. The double frame is made in the same way, but at the same time two rows of profiles are installed, then sheathed with plasterboard.

Video

We bring to your attention a video about the installation of a wall profile frame:

Photo

Today, such material as drywall is one of the best finishing materials. It combines ease of installation, high efficiency and low cost. However, in order to work globally with drywall, this means the effectiveness of its use in a particular area of construction and finishing work, you need to know the basics of its installation. And this is exactly what we will talk about in our today's article.

Of course, most people who are undertaking repairs prefer to use this finishing material without a profile, a kind of frameless installation, since an ordinary plasterboard sheet can be easily attached to a surface, for example, to a wall or ceiling, using simple self-tapping screws, and the marks from holes can be easily repaired with ordinary putty ... However, in this case, it is imperative that there is a surface on which the gypsum plasterboard will be attached, and if you need, for example, to make a partition in the room, then it is simply impossible to do without using a profile, and this method of installing drywall is called frame.

The profile frame can be sheathed with plasterboard

The frame method of installation implies the mandatory presence of four types of profiles, to which, in fact, the drywall sheet will be attached. The PS profile is a rack profile, which is installed in a vertical position, and serves as a kind of support for other types of profiles, and, in addition, it also serves as a guide surface when attaching drywall sheets. This profile in its standard version has a length of three hundred centimeters, and a square section with a side of five centimeters. In addition, there are other sizes of the rack profile, which differ not only in their length, but also in the size of the section.

The second type of profile, which is necessary to create a full-fledged frame for gypsum plasterboard structures, are HC and UD profiles, which are horizontal guide profiles designed so that gypsum plasterboards can be fixed on them. These profiles, as a rule, have the same cross-section, with dimensions of twenty-seven millimeters by twenty-eight millimeters, but the length, that is, linear measurements of a given profile, may be different, but, as a rule, in the standard version, the length of such profiles is three hundred centimeters.

And finally, the last type of profile, which is necessary when creating a frame installation of drywall, is the PP profile - a horizontally positioned ceiling profile, which is often used when creating structures for suspended ceilings. The use of this profile is optional, since you have the right to independently decide whether you will be engaged in finishing the ceiling with plasterboard or not, but it is worth noting that if you decide to do this, then you will get the ideal shape of your room, since all the corners are future surfaces are strictly measured, and, therefore, the problem of an uneven ceiling will be solved by itself. In addition to the fact that you need a profile, you will definitely also need connecting parts, without which a normal and high-quality installation of a frame structure for plasterboard finishing is simply not possible. You will need:

U-shaped hanger for PP profile (ceiling profile);
cross-shaped connector for connecting the PP profile at one constant level;
U-shaped connector required to connect the PP profile at different levels (if you want to create a multi-tiered ceiling);
T-bracket used in practice for creating false ceiling structures

Types of profiles and joints for drywall

It is perhaps worth noting that you should not regret purchasing these connecting parts, since they are all necessary in order to withstand drywall profile weight, and if this is neglected, then it is likely that these joints will experience high stresses and loads, as a result of which the destruction of the entire structure may occur.

The installation of a drywall profile begins with nothing, namely with a marking, since if this is not done in the proper way, then it is likely that the surface will be uneven, meaning inclined vertically or horizontally. In order to make the correct markup for our future frame, you need to use a tool such as a level. Having such a tool, it is necessary to first walk it vertically, and then horizontally, as a result of which it will be quite easy to identify the wall by the builders or not.

If the builders turned out to be professionals, and the wall is presented perfectly flat, then you can begin to install the profile, but if the builders did not have enough professionalism, and the wall is tilted or has significant protrusions, then you should proceed as follows: it is necessary to determine the most protruding wall point of the wall, visually project (imagine that the wall is not in a vertical position, but in a horizontal position) on the floor, and add twenty-eight millimeters to the dimensions of this profile. The question may arise as to why exactly twenty-eight, because the size of the UD and SW profile has a thickness of twenty-seven millimeters, but the point is that the profile design does not take into account the thickness of the metal, which can be forty-five hundredths of a millimeter and six tenths millimeter, and it is likely that when measuring this protrusion, you will be mistaken even by a millimeter.

After you have done this, at a distance measured from the wall, the UD and UV profiles, respectively, should be attached to the floor and ceiling surfaces, and then, vertical guides should be attached to this profile. It is worth noting that before you fix the rack profile, you must again make a markup so that when installing the frame for finishing with a plasterboard sheet, distortions do not arise, and only then install the suspensions and fix the rack profile on them, which should be repeated on the wall through every seventy centimeters, which will be the answer to the question that has arisen how to expose a profile under drywall.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the ceiling

Well, the time has come now to deal with the PP ceiling profile, since the issue of covering the ceiling with drywall sheets is a very topical issue today. The first stage of creating the ceiling frame is almost identical to how we marked the walls, after which, every one and a half meters, control suspensions for the ceiling profile are set. It is worth noting that if the dimensions of your room do not exceed a length of five meters, then it will be quite enough to install suspensions on opposite sides of your ceiling, and place one in the center. If the room is large, then it is necessary to install intermediate suspensions in order to give the frame more reliability, strength and stability.

After you have attached the hangers at the points you marked, you can start attaching the ceiling profile, installing it approximately every fifty centimeters, that is, two more additional hangers are installed between the two control hangers. After the brackets are installed, and the location of the surface is properly checked, you can proceed to the installation of the PP profile. It should be noted that connection of profiles for plasterboard is no different from a similar process carried out on the wall, and all the same self-tapping screws are used as connecting units. It should be noted that it is imperative to check the dimensions for the profile, since even with an error of only half a centimeter, this will negatively appear on the surface of your ceiling, and it is quite easy to make such a mistake, and if you have the opportunity to use a laser level (borrow from a neighbor , take from friends or acquaintances), then be sure to do it, unless of course you want to get a high-quality surface.

Fastening a drywall profile

And, finally, I would like to talk about how the frame is installed for multi-level plasterboard ceilings. In fact, there is nothing special about this, since the same profile is used as when installing a conventional ceiling. As always, it all starts with the markup. To do this, you need to "draw" on your ceiling a sketch of your multilevel ceiling, then align it and install the brackets (U-shaped suspension) at the attachment points. Since our ceiling should be multi-level, then, therefore, part of the brackets is exposed at one height, and part at another. After you have done this, you only need to install the ceiling profile and fix the drywall sheets on it.

But what if you want, say, to make not a rectilinear multi-level ceiling, but with various kinds of circles, smooth transitions, roundings, and so on? Do not be lost in conjectures, since the familiar PP profile is again used, with the only difference that, as the roundness and smooth transitions are established, small cuts are made with the help of metal scissors or nippers, along which the profile and bends to the required radius. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that too close cuts can lead to instability of the entire structure of the frame, therefore, they should be made as needed. In addition, such ceilings can only be created in fairly spacious rooms - from twenty square meters, and therefore tenants of small-sized cars can simply forget about their ideas, at least do it on their own. In all other respects, the design of the frame of a curved multi-level ceiling, in the way of its installation, is naturally similar to the installation of a frame for rectilinear multi-level ceilings, although it should be noted that it is necessary to use U-shaped suspensions much more often, since, nevertheless, this design is more unstable and complex.

Installation of a profile for multi-level plasterboard ceilings

Conclusion!

That's basically all that we wanted to tell you. Now you can independently install the frame for cladding using drywall surfaces of the walls or ceiling, while having the minimum necessary equipment, profile, fasteners and, of course, the stock of knowledge gained in our article.