Do-it-yourself log cabin: step-by-step instructions on how to make a bath from a log house yourself. Cutting into a bowl - manual cutting technology for a log cabin of a bath How to learn how to cut log cabins with your own hands
Despite the advent of new building materials, Lately tendencies to build housing from environmentally friendly, natural materials. Returning to the times of grandfathers and great-grandfathers, today many people want to build a log house from a log with their own hands. So you can save a lot of money, and most importantly - personally ensure and control the quality of construction. But before you get started, you should study the theory. Information on how to make a log house on your own will help you do the job efficiently.
Basic information about the design of the log house
A log cabin is a structure consisting of horizontally laid logs that form walls. Each row of logs is called a crown, and the lowest one is a crown crown. A log house consisting of only four outer walls is called a four-wall (the logs are tied at the corners), and if there is one internal partition, it is called a five-wall (in addition to the corner ones, there are also T-shaped joints).
The construction of the log house is a wall consisting of logs laid horizontally. For the manufacture of logs, softwood and hardwood are used. It is preferable that the trees are freshly cut, and in winter time: this wood contains less moisture. Of conifers, pine is better suited: logs from it last longer and exude less resin.
Corner dressings of external walls are performed both with and without the remainder: in the first case, the edges of the logs protrude beyond the walls, and in the second, they do not. Ligation is carried out by the method "in the paw", "in the bowl", "in the oblo" and more simple - "in the end tongue".
Preparatory work
Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with the selection of logs of the desired diameter. In areas with cold winters, the outer walls of the log house are built from logs with a diameter of at least 26 cm. For internal walls and for outdoor, built for areas with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 22 ... 24 cm will suffice. Material with excessive curvature, with rot, with traces of insect damage is not suitable for use. After the bark is removed, the tree trunks must be cut in such a way that the length of the blanks is 70 ... 100 cm longer than the length of the walls. Short logs are spliced using the "comb-and-groove" method, but the first crown must be solid.
For the lower crown, the highest quality logs are selected, preferably from hardwood. In the following, you must select a semicircular groove along the entire length. From the side facing the inside of the house, the logs are cut through. Intended for internal walls (partitions), they are cut through from two sides.
The beginning of the assembly of the log house
Do-it-yourself log houses are assembled after the foundation is ready. over a foundation built of brick or monolithic concrete, lay the board impregnated with bitumen. Its width should be about 150 mm, thickness - 50 mm. The crown crown is hemmed from below and laid on the board, and then, after fitting, the rest of the logs. In this case, it is necessary to orient the butts so that in neighboring crowns they are on opposite sides.
During assembly, it is necessary to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of each crown.
The crowns are connected to each other with the help of dowels (pins) in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the pins should be no more than 2 m. In the walls, fastening should be done at least twice and at a distance of 150 ... 200 mm from the edge. Internal partition with outer wall connected with a vertical ridge, expanding towards the end. To do this, in the outer walls are cut special form grooves.
In accordance with the project, openings are left for doors and windows. Another method involves cutting openings after assembling the walls (after shrinking the house). The latter method is preferable: it provides a uniform load on the base and prevents the structure from skewing. In both cases, the opening is made in such a way that the ends end in a vertical ridge (it is not needed in the upper and lower parts). Between the overlapping crown and the upper part of the window and door frames, a gap of 4 ... 5 cm should be left - for shrinkage.
The final stage of the assembly of the log house
After the walls are erected, they are caulked with flax, tow, moss, felt or hemp. There are also sealants made on the basis of natural rubber and artificial materials. The caulking material is compacted into the grooves so that there are no gaps left. For this use special tool- a caulk and a hammer. Start this work with lower rims around the entire perimeter: processing one wall can lead to a skew of the structure. First, the outer walls are caulked, after which they move inside.
Wood should be treated with antiseptic material and flame retardants: the latter is mandatory in those places where it is planned to install a stove, fireplace, and also where the chimney will pass. This measure can significantly increase the service life of the log house.
After the assembly of the log house is completed, it is covered waterproofing material and leave for at least six months: this is necessary in order for the house to shrink. Then they perform the installation of the roof and proceed to interior decoration.
Interior decoration of a wooden house
Walls wooden house(log), if the wood used is of high quality, without defects, does not require special finishing: it is enough to get rid of the roughness and open it with varnish. It can be either colorless or tinted. If the quality of the surface of the walls does not suit you or you need a different stylistic solution, you can use wooden lining or drywall. In this case, you must first carry out the installation of electrical wiring: in terms of fire safety for this, a cable with copper conductors is used, laid in a corrugated metal pipe.
The walls of the log house breathe well, so plastic and insulating material, such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, should not be used. If necessary, insulation is used mineral wool. For flooring, boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm are used: they are tightly fitted to each other. Right assembled frame last for several decades.
The first thing you need to understand is professional language, which carpenters speak and which you and I will communicate throughout the book. So let's start with terminology.
It is known that the house should stand on the foundation, and you should start from it, but this is a slightly different topic, therefore, instead of the foundation, temporary linings are shown in the figure 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from starting a permanent foundation .
A log house is a log structure without a floor, a batten or a roof, that is, the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the frame. Crown - rectangular design, consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together at the corners with a lock connection.
The first crown of the frame is the crown crown 2, the second and main one is the lower harness 3, into which the logs 4 are cut. bottom strapping and protects it from decay. Over time, it can be replaced. Crowns from bottom trim to start window opening are called window sills 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the window crowns. The first crown crown is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called the upper trim. It consists of two upper runs 8 and rafters 9. What is 10 rafters and 11 corner veranda pillars is clear from the figure.
Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns, lying perpendicular to the girders, transverse, and the crowns, in which there are window or door openings, - split. The logs that form the openings are called "shorty". They can be of various lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.
Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Russia, logs were processed at a height. In some films, you probably saw how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, famously and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log up. Then, having made the markup, make a felling along it and lay the log in the place determined for it. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. You, as a novice carpenter, are unlikely to be able to process the log with the required accuracy the first time. Surely you will have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it in place. The slightest carelessness in such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the processed log. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!
We offer you to build a log house in parts, each of which has a height of human growth. This method is called cutting with subsequent shifting. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being made on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main log house. Relays will allow you to do all the work with the ax while standing on the ground, and outdoor scaffolding will not be needed. In this case, we use two translations, since, in our opinion, this best option for the beginner builder. Let you not be confused by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of crowns. They are more than offset by the convenience and safety of work, for a well-equipped workplace- guarantee of high labor productivity. You will learn more about how the translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue our acquaintance with the terminology.
The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. Starting to cut a house, you should know that there is no perfectly even log. Any log has a slope, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when stacking logs one on top of the other, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.
When assembling the frame, in order for one crown to adjoin the other more closely, a groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation in the processing of logs is the manufacture of edging 4.
The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a "block" 5, the planes formed in this case are called cheeks 6, and the raw, convex surface is called wane 7.
The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as locking joints of logs, are "paw" 8 and " dovetail"9. For additional fastening logs in the crowns use the connection dowel 10 - pocket 11, and the pillars and rafters are securely installed with the help of spikes 12.
Special attention You must pay attention to the selection of the instrument.
The most important of them is a carpenter's ax 1. It should fit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of tools such as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, bracket 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measure 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise questions. A low-stretch cord 12 and an awl 13 are used for marking, and a level 14 is used to check the horizontal position. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long, about 1 cm in diameter, the ends of which are put on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with tinted water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 from plexiglass 2-3 mm thick and line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as "babu" 17 - the main "impact" tool made from a birch chock with two staples hammered into it.
If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw - do not miss it. A chainsaw will greatly facilitate your work, save your time and energy.
To avoid injuries and other "troubles" during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special working methods and safety precautions.
You need to start construction with logging.
It is best to use conifers - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log cabins for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But birch cannot be used, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very "capriciously" during processing. Since it burns well and gives off a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it must be debarked and dried.
| Structural element | Number of logs | Log length | Log diameter |
|---|---|---|---|
| crown crown | 2 pcs. 3 pcs. |
820 cm 620 cm |
30-50 cm |
| Bottom trim | 2 pcs. 3 pcs. |
820 cm 620 cm |
30-50 cm |
| lags | 5-6 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-35 cm |
| window crowns | 10-13 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-40 cm |
| Split logs (window and door) | 22-27 pcs. | 540 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Closing and overhead crowns | 5-9 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Top runs | 2 pcs. | 820 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Subrafters | 7-9 pcs. | 720 cm | 20-35 cm |
| rafters | 14-18 pcs. | 520 cm | at least 10 cm |
| porch poles | at least 2 pcs. | 300 cm | at least 20 cm |
| Note: the indicated dimensions are chosen with a margin for trimming. | |||
Now let's choose a place for the construction site.
From the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembly constituent parts log house. Then you can start marking the plan of the future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to get right angles.
BASIC RULE OF THE BUILDER - MARKING DEFINES QUALITY
We will implement it in the following way. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, we stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the points obtained with pegs and check with a tape measure all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm.
Next, we will make and install linings for the log house (temporary foundation).
Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to moisture if it is pre-barked.
Linings must be installed under the runs crown crown, near the corners of the log house, in order to ensure the correct distribution of the load. The pads are installed according to the level with an accuracy of ~ 5 cm.
Making edging is the most common operation in the processing of logs..
In order to complete it, it is necessary to trim the log to size, choose a side for the edge, position the future edge plane approximately vertically, and fix the log with brackets. Do not be alarmed if the log has a curvature. It won't stop you from using it.
On a plumb line at the ends of the log, we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.
We fix the cord with awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. With a colored pencil we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edge line, repeat the same operations by turning the log over.
After that, we fix the log for the teska with brackets, but not much, so that you don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make notches and, having hewed the log, we will get the edging.
Having a chainsaw, instead of notches, you can make cuts, which will significantly speed up the work.
Finally, let's proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house.
We begin to make a frame from eight-meter logs (runs) of the overlay crown, on one side of which an edging is made about 10 cm wide. Now we need to process the ends of the runs.
First, cut down the "boobs" with a width of 2/3-3/4 of the diameter of the log. The length of the "doodle" L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.
At the end of the "doodle" we select point 1, through it we draw the line of the "paw" according to the template with an extension inside the house.
Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a line of "paws".
We draw vertical lines on the cheeks of the log, spaced from the end by the width of the "doodle" of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut down to line 4-5.
Then it is necessary to lay transverse logs on the "paws" of the runs with "blocks" and, fixing them with brackets, check and correct the dimensions of the log house.
Now you can fasten the runs with linings tightly with brackets.
Drawing is a parallel transfer of the points of the pairing lines of the lower log to the upper.
The opening of the line when drawing the "paw" of the overlay crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the "paw" of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.
In the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines washed down from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it down. Let's make an average "dummy" on the runs.
To simplify the cutting out of the cheeks of the middle "boob" we will make cuts.
According to the width of the "doodle" of the transverse log, we will cut down the "dovetail" in the run. With the help of the line, we transfer the lines of the "dovetail" to the "doodle" of the transverse log and cut it down. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the runs of the crown crown.
Now let's take a look at the bottom trim..
Let's make "doodles" on the runs of the lower strapping, lay them over the runs of the flashing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the runs are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm. It should be borne in mind that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. We fix the runs with brackets.
For drawing, we select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.
Let's check the selected solution of the feature along the ends of the log. It must be greater than distance 1-2 on both ends. Point 2 - the border of the wane and the inner cheek.
Let's mark the top of the "paws" under the transverse logs.
For further work we need to master the operation of sampling the groove.
Along the entire length of the groove with the "heel" of the ax we will make cruciform notches, and with the "toe" of the ax along the lines of the groove we will select wood. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.
After that, you should cut down the "paws" and, having laid the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tilted, it will easily fall into the right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay tow (moss) on the underlying log. Now you can finally lay the top log on it.
Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the runs. To complete the lower trim, it remains only to embed the logs. On the runs of the lower strapping, we outline the places for inserting the lag. As a zero point ( top level lag) choose approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. We put the finished logs in place, outline, and then cut down their contour to the level of the tie-in. Let's beat the lags with a "woman".
In the course of work, you may encounter typical errors.
- The log "plays" (the gap between the "paws", loose fit of the log in the groove):
the reason is a knot on the lower log or a poor selection of the groove; correction - cut down the knots on the lower log, knock the upper log with a "woman", select the places of wrinkling in the groove. - Gap between legs:
the reason - the opening of the line when drawing the "paw" was greater than the opening of the line when drawing the groove, or there was a "blockage" of the line; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection. - The log "hangs" on the "legs" (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the "legs"):
the reason is that the opening of the line when drawing the groove is greater than the opening of the line when drawing the "paw"; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap 1, draw "paws" 2 and trim them.
It should be said that the following gap sizes are acceptable: in the "paw" - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.
Now it's the turn of laying the first window sill.
Let's mark first doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are fixed with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.
To mark the center lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the "shorty" (log in a split crown). Then, along the center line, the pockets for the dowel are selected with a chisel. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm more than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.
When laying the crowns, a constant check with a plumb line of the verticality of the corners should be carried out. The last window sill in doorway goes uncut. The uncut log of this crown is also planted on two dowels.
Tow (moss) does not fit under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first re-laying. Starting the translation, first from zero level set aside the same distance up and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill crown and install it on the ground, placing linings 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to observe the verticality of the cheeks. Using the level, restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals in the corners.
Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked the window openings.
Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. "Shorty" window rims are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and put it on the dowels, transferring the zero mark to its corners. Draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be moved, which serves as a control during assembly.
Now it is possible, having marked the logs, to shift them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making simple scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the frame). For the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.
The upper harness consists of two upper runs and rafters. At the ends of the runs, "doodles" are performed, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For correction, we will lay the upper runs (eight meters) on the transverse logs of the last window crown (the top of the "paws" on them is not necessary).
Check and correct dimensions A-B, S-D.
Using linings and staples, we will achieve the horizontal top of the runs.
Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the runs to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we will cut down the “paw” on the extreme transverse log, and the “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make the cheeks in the upper runs, respectively, the "dovetail" of the transverse log. On the underside of the girders, we will make pockets 4 cm deep for the spikes of the veranda pillars. Again we will lay the runs and, having drawn them, we will cut them into the appropriate place.
We will prepare logs for rafters with a length of 7 m. All of them, except for one, should be hewn into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm). We will cut the raw end rafter with a dovetail into the run so that its top is horizontal.
Let's mark the tie-in points of the remaining processed rafters on the upper runs. Then we cut the rafters (checking by level), cutting the run by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.
You can also correct the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but not more than 1/4 of the thickness.
Next, we make platforms for rafter legs and under the wind board on the extreme (first) rafter (flush with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by re-drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the extreme rafters and align the rest along it.
Make marks on the substrings and runs for subsequent alignment and mark them.
On the cord on all the rafters, mark the pockets for the rafter legs. Cut them out with a chisel and check with a template.
On the veranda sub-rafter, make pockets for poles (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and cut in a log - a "plug".
Now let's start making rafters.
The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and accuracy, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the spike in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.
Prepared blanks of rafters must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On the blanks of the rafters, the side on which the crate will be attached should be flat, without protruding knots.
Let's start marking the base of the rafters
Let's make a wash down along the ellipse line and cut the workpiece under the spike, and then, having made the end cut, cut down the spike itself. Next, mark, cut down and cut down the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them to fit and check the quality of the connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the spikes or widening and deepening the pockets.
Sometimes they simplify the work on the manufacture of rafters. At the tops they are connected into half-logs, and the bases are attached to the rafters with nails without making a spike. By simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the life of the roof in advance.
Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the last shift, not forgetting to lay the tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the verandah, and fasten them with brackets apart, in order to avoid their rotation along the axis.
We have come to the final stage of construction - the manufacture of pillars
In the log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and in their own way functional purpose are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate. Corner posts are a support for the upper runs, door and window frames are attached to the door and window frames. Intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for sheathing. largest area in the section they should have corner posts, the smallest - intermediate. The distance between the intermediate pillars is determined depending on the length of the boards used for sheathing the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.
The manufacture of corner posts begins with determining their length and marking pockets. For the convenience of marking, we will make a "fishing rod", at the end of which we will fix a plumb line. With the help of such a device, we will design any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the verandah transverse log of the lower strapping, while obtaining the distance H. Using the designed corner, we will restore the reciprocal pocket at the bottom.
Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges should be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.
Then we will make a pocket for the lower spike with a depth of 7 cm. We will install the corner posts, placing linings 5 cm high, which should be removed six months later, after the log house shrinks.
Having installed the corner posts, we put the verandah rafters in place and fix them with brackets. The rest of the pillars must be made and installed after shrinkage of the log house. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed into three edges, the rest - into two. The lower spike of all pillars, except for the corner ones, should be 3 cm long.
The installation of the remaining pillars should begin from the side of the log house, grabbing already installed poles to the upper run (verandah rafter) with brackets.
The final operation is the installation of rafters.
For its implementation, it is necessary to lay walkways from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jibs from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.
We will collect the tops of the rafters with nails and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the extreme rafters, a plumb line should be used.
Rafters are more convenient to install with three people. Raising the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and fixing the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, fix them with jibs, checking the verticality of the rafters.
It remains only to fasten the rafter legs with rafters with thin brackets.
So, ! But a log house is not yet. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up the gables, cover the roof, fold the stove or fireplace, lay the floors, sheathe the veranda, embed window and door blocks etc., in general, a lot of interesting work awaits you.
The project of a log house offered by us is universal. If its dimensions are proportionally reduced, it will turn out to be very good log house baths, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, with such a building it is better to start learning carpentry, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your services in construction to other gardeners.
Conjugation of corners in wooden house plays a big role in comfortable operation the last one. They are able to take on the cold, become a breeding ground for mold, become damp and have other shortcomings. Such a set of serious defects have corners chopped into a paw or half a tree.They are used when they want to save on material. Indeed, the inner area and outer squares remain the same as stated in the project. But this savings is mythical and the corners in the paw are abandoned in favor of such a process as the technology of cutting a log house into a bowl. The benefits of doing so are below.
Essence and varieties
What is the notorious felling? This is a semicircular recess of a log on the surface. When mating, the crowns get jammed, and after shrinkage, the strength of the bowl is extraordinary. The wood is marked in such a way that the end of the trunk to the bowl is 25-30 cm, that is, the corners will not be blown by all the winds, which means they react less to temperature changes, which eliminates the appearance of condensate.Canadian and Norwegian masters, famous for their art in the field of manual construction of houses, once simply adopted the cutting method from their Russian neighbors, and after many centuries the name of the technology is considered to have come from another country. Theirs, or rather our variety, is more reliable than an ordinary bowl, because it has a fat tail spike, when shrinking and jamming the wood, it tightly fixes the crowns, not giving them a single chance to move.
In order to accurately cut corners, experience is needed, since ignorant homegrown craftsmen are unlikely to succeed the first time. How to chop a log house into a bowl - the process is described below.
Cutting into a bowl - independent work
Proper marking is the key to accurate pairing. Venerable carpenters have for this special device- hell. This is a hammer with two sharp rods that allow you to accurately outline the contour of the future bowl. But for the average person this is a difficult process, so you should use ordinary measuring instruments and mark each log separately. More about the process step by step:You can independently cut down a log house into a bowl with your own hands. But in the absence of skills, this work will be delayed.
Offers from professionals
As already mentioned, there are a lot of varieties of such conjugation. Cutting a log house into a bowl can be Russian, Canadian, Siberian. The Norwegian carriage is unusually beautiful. It is a special log chopped from all sides. geometric shape, which together gives a picture of the thread. Consulting with specialists, you can choose an acceptable option for yourself, since complexity still affects the cost of work. Solving the question of how to chop a log house into a cup is difficult. But the venerable carpenters, who have been building such houses for centuries, have accumulated a lot of useful tricks, leading efforts to a strong result of the entire construction and for the sake of helping non-professionals. So:- Inexperienced craftsmen can work for the first time hand saw to mark notches. And it’s too much to choose with a chisel.
- Accuracy will help to observe the fitting of the next log. If this is tiring, then it is useful to make a template corresponding to the diameter. It is made from a sheet of tin so that hardness is present.
- When trying on the upper log, the pairing is blackened with coal. After lifting, it becomes clear how much more to choose.
- Each crown is checked by level. If there is a mismatch and if a lot is cut down, all hope is for the sealant.
- The Canadian felling of a log house into a cup can become even stronger if the top of the spike is slightly sharpened. The groove should be a couple of millimeters smaller. Thus, the spike will fit tightly into the intended hole, and when it shrinks, it will jam securely.
- Before final assembly bowl saddles should be impregnated with special compounds against biological threats. This will make the corners reliable in terms of penetration of damage from the outside.
Due to inexperience, owners can ruin a large amount of material. It will be even more offensive if it is a valuable coniferous species.Therefore, it makes sense to order work from professionals or purchase a ready-made house kit, chopped into a bowl. Such houses are assembled as a constructor within a couple of weeks or a month, depending on the complexity of the work and the object.
The desire to build a house on your own is commendable. Manual felling - good way training in building your own wooden house. Having considered all the options and made a choice in favor of the "bowl", you can vouch that the object will be durable, and most importantly, comfortable for living.
Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, the log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His theme has collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:
- Eco hut.
- Training.
- Foundation.
- Box.
- Roof.
- Internal work.
Eco-hut only 30 m²
mike099 FORUMHOUSE User
The dream of building a wooden house has long crept in - an environmentally friendly one, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other "benefits" of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter raids and year-round living, therefore shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of centuries past were not included in the project.
The craftsman immediately decided on the construct:
- Pile foundation.
- A box of hand-cut logs.
- Metal roof.
- As a heater for ceilings - sawdust with and sawdust with lime.
Training
The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden change house and a toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman aimed at a one-and-a-half-story log house 8 × 9 meters with five rooms, but as he comprehended, a completely different design loomed. From the second floor, although attic, he refused, both because of the unwillingness to engage in stair fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned furnace heating there will be a large temperature difference between the levels. Plus, it is problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with overlap and a cold attic is much easier. Next came the turn of the quadrature, and the result of the selection optimal layout was the project of a log house 6 × 6 meters, with a set of functional premises.
The meters vital for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings in operation by reducing heating costs, and country specificity - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping”. However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned cutting of the log into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, and a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with the intersection is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.
Foundation
Preference screw piles was given away because of the desire to try a "super modern solution" and save money, as well as because of the speed and relative ease of installation. In total, nine piles were screwed - three points of support for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness - 4 mm. Despite some problems during the installation of piles and the fragility of the coating, positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact, effortlessly torn off with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, it is possible that the bathhouse will also be put on piles, although it admits that the tape or slab will be “more reliable”.
Box
The log house was collected on moss, ordered in advance from another region, before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and did not shrink much in the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. It turned out to be problematic to make log partitions due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team brought and assembled just a box in one day, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely on all the walls, it took much less than planned, as practice has shown, they obviously did not report it.
To dry the log house was cut out ventilation holes size 30×30 cm, with grid. To everyone who is only in the process, mike099 recommends doing more. He was already engaged in heaving (primary caulking of the log house with moss) on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, cut off the excess with a clerical knife.
Roof
From popular now soft tiles The craftsman refused for several reasons.
mike099
The soft roof was dismissed immediately, due to the lower environmental friendliness and higher price. Binders, the basis of soft tiles - these materials are far from natural. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a flat flooring made of OSB or plywood.
Therefore, I preferred metal tiles, imitating the ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of rafter elements - a central ridge support beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50 × 50 mm), lathing with a step under the coating profile (35 cm). As planned - cornice overhangs 70 cm each, in the future there will be a metal drainage system.
After assembling the log house “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary ebbs from the waterproofing along the ends, slots of the ebb and at the junction of the box and the strapping. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemistry, I had to treat the gables from imitation timber with protective impregnation.
Internal work
The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the beam, I wanted to keep the style, but processing the log now is not a cheap pleasure, like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board, 50 mm thick, with overlapping slots unedged board 25 mm thick, all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. In order to avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two supporting logs go through the ceiling.
I made the window openings on my own, as the specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.
mike099
The pigtail is made simple, rough T-shaped: I marked the grooves in the log with a saw, the main sample was cut with a milling cutter. I laid a bar 50x50 mm dry, with a linen tape (insulation) and shot a box from a board 200x50 mm to it with self-tapping screws.
Another indulgence in favor of modern materials - steel door and two plastic windows, wooden euro-windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows on his own, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory one, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal with large labor costs.
To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcing cage, two m³ of concrete.
As it dried, the draft floor “pleased” with cracks, I had to close them with flashings, before filling the sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.
Sawdust before laying flavored with lime and carefully tamped. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman brought out communications.
An unpleasant surprise was the strong warpage of the floor after drying for just one day and the loss of knots. As a result, the coating is opened and re-installed, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.
The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with a warmed underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the basement, to it XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, there are also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn in the area under the very log house, and the plinth was later revetted basement siding under brickwork.
Log sanding mike099 tackled on his own, first with the help of an eccentric grinder. It turned out to be rather weak, so they replaced it with a grinder, first I used a circle with a grain of 80, the second pass - with a grain of 120-150. Only 200 liters of waste accumulated in the vacuum cleaner, but it was worth it.
A log house made of round timber is a classic solution used in construction for centuries. Roundwood is chosen as a material for houses and baths, with the help of log cabins they build country houses and outbuildings. Logs have high thermal insulation properties, while retaining all the advantages natural material. It is difficult to build the right frame from round timber with your own hands, but it is quite possible, but it is important to understand all the features of a wooden house.Features of log houses
Log cabins from roundwood do not lose their popularity, since this material allows for natural exchange and at the same time has a very low thermal conductivity. In such houses there will be a comfortable temperature and at the same time a light pleasant atmosphere with the aroma of wood, which many people like. However, due to the round shape of the logs, the joints between them will need to be insulated. For construction, several options for logs are used, and you need to decide on the most profitable of them:
- A skinned log is a tree trunk, from which only upper layer bark, knots and various irregularities are removed. At the same time, the natural protective layers of wood are preserved, so the material will be stronger and more durable. However, a skinned log always has different thickness at the base (butt) and top, so they will need to be alternated when laying.
- Rounded log - a type of roundwood that has passed special treatment. Several layers of wood are removed, leaving only the densest middle part. In addition, the log takes on an even cylindrical shape, so it will be easier to use.
- Sometimes a calibrated log is additionally isolated. Sanded trunks are selected strictly according to the diameter (caliber), so that the construction will be easier, and the walls will be more even.
Whichever option you choose, the round frame will be the most beautiful solution: log houses have excellent aesthetic qualities, their appearance is reminiscent of Russian fairy tales. The surface of the walls will have to be subjected protective treatment, but it will preserve the natural color and texture of the wood, so the building will look great.
Preparatory work before construction
How to make a frame from round timber? Building begins with a choice suitable material and project preparation. Pine houses remain the most popular in Russia: it is inexpensive, grows in almost all regions, and is easy to process. Soft material will require additional protection, but it can last a long time. A more expensive solution is a house made of larch logs: this type of wood does not rot, but it only becomes stronger from moisture. It is difficult to draw up a project on your own, especially if there is no experience in building drawings. However, you can find ready-made standard solutions and modify them in accordance with personal preferences. You can contact a specialized company, where a professional architect will develop a project that is most suitable for all requests.Stages of building a log house from a log
When all preparatory work completed, you can start assembling the log house on the site. The owner must decide on the type of foundation of the house: if a capital two-story building is being built, best solution will become a tape shallow foundation, and for a light small building suitable columnar base. The site is marked with pegs, between which ropes are stretched, after which it is possible to lay the foundation strictly along the resulting lines.Strip foundation - a monolithic concrete strip, which is poured around the entire perimeter of the building. The concrete is reinforced reinforcing cage, that's why strip base remains one of the most durable and reliable.
After pouring the foundation, it needs to dry, it takes several weeks. Only after that it is possible to disassemble the formwork and proceed to the assembly of the log house. The foundation requires careful waterproofing: roofing material is laid on it in several layers, you can also use bituminous mastic. The frame itself is assembled in several stages:
- The first crown is assembled from the thickest, strongest and most reliable logs that have to support the weight of the house. From the underside they are hemmed so that they can be laid evenly on the foundation.
Usually, for log cabins from round timber, the type of felling “into a bowl” is used: semicircular recesses are selected in the logs, with the help of which the corners of the log house are fastened. It is important that the bowls are as even as possible, then the wall will be reliable.
- Before laying the next crown on the log roll insulation. Its use will allow you to avoid constant caulking: linen or jute fiber, moss or other materials will not release heat outside, but from the side interventional insulation almost invisible.
- The log crowns are laid one on top of the other, not forgetting about the openings for doors and windows according to the project. Usually for professionals, assembly work takes only a few days, a novice master will have to carefully fit the logs to each other, this will take time.
- The last crown serves as a Mauerlat - the roof rafters will rest on it. For log cabins from round timber, they usually use the classic gable roof with a large slope so that snow does not linger on it. When the last crown is laid, they crash into it ceiling beams, and you can proceed to the installation of rafters in the chosen way.
- When the log cabin of the round timber bath is assembled, it must be allowed to stand for at least six months in order for the shrinkage processes to complete and the wood to dry as much as possible. Before that, it must be treated with an antiseptic so that rot does not start.
