How to build a bathhouse yourself in the country. Small bath with your own hands

Sometimes you so want to leave the hustle and bustle of the city, and go to the country. Silence, walking, doing what you love - what could be better! If comfort is provided at the dacha, you want to come again and again. One of the most comfortable living conditions in the country is a bathhouse.

Construction can, of course, be entrusted to professional builders. However, it is quite possible to build and equip a bathhouse at a summer cottage on its own. This saves you from additional expenses and allows you to carry out finishing and improvement in full accordance with your wishes and preferences. Therefore, this task is not easy, but it is quite within the power of a novice builder. The bathhouse built with his own hands will delight the owners even more. So, how do you build a bath yourself?

Firstly, as with any construction, you first need to decide on the project and the materials from which the bath will be built. The choice of the main material for construction depends on the geographical location and operating conditions, as well as on its own capabilities.

Baths are made of bricks, aerated concrete and other stone materials, some prefer frame baths, however, many novice builders prefer to build a bath from wood. This lightweight and durable material does not require a serious and expensive foundation, but it has excellent characteristics. With proper care, the operation of the bath will not cause much trouble.

And of course, preference should be given to a bar - a bath made of this material will retain all the advantages of a wooden structure and save you from problems and additional costs that may arise when building walls from logs. Erection of walls from a bar is similar to working with a designer - it can have different geometric dimensions and sections (rectangle, square, semicircular), and, in the case of a profiled bar, there are grooves for fastening. It is easy and convenient to build from a bar - what could be better for a novice builder!

How to choose a place to build a bath.

One of the most important points is the choice of the location of the future building. The site must comply with both existing legislation and ease of use. When choosing, basic recommendations can help:

if there is a reservoir nearby, do not place the bath too close to it, as the building will be threatened by flooding;
it is necessary to decide how the bathhouse will be located relative to the house: a separate building or will be attached to it, since each option has its positive and negative sides;
it is believed that it is better to build a bath in the backyard, in relative seclusion;
it is imperative to provide for mandatory ventilation during construction, as well as provide for wastewater disposal;
it is highly discouraged to determine the location next to a nearby road;
when placing a building, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal points and the direction of the wind: the best place is the southern part of the site, protected from the wind, so that it does not interfere with the rest, it is better to have windows with an exit to the west;
it is desirable that the bath be located at some distance from other buildings, and if it is an extension to the house, it is imperative to observe fire safety rules during construction, as, incidentally, when erecting a detached building;
when determining the location of the bath and its size, it is necessary to observe the distance from the boundaries of the site established by the rules so that the neighbors do not feel discomfort in the future and do not make claims to the owner;
it is recommended to keep the distance to the water intake (well or well) - no more than 20 meters.

At the beginning of construction, it is highly desirable to make a project, which should, among other things, determine the optimal construction area.

It is believed that the estimated area for 1 person should be approximately 5 sq. M. Thus, if the estimated number of visitors to the bath is 4 people, its total area should not be less than 20 sq. M.

The minimum composition of the premises is as follows: a steam room, a washing room, a rest room and a dressing room. It is important to determine the most convenient location of these rooms relative to each other, as well as their geometric dimensions.

First you need to complete several diagrams and drawings:

- general plan of the building;
- drawings of each room separately;
- a diagram of the foundation device;
- a diagram of the roofing device;
- a plan for fastening and laying out a bar;
- plan for the arrangement of the floor and ceiling of the bath;
- a diagram of the installation of the furnace, taking into account its structural features.

All the necessary drawings can be done independently, as well as found in many open sources. As a rule, timber baths have similar designs and you can easily choose the most suitable one. If you wish and have the necessary budget, you can order the design to a professional architect or builder.

The choice of building materials.

Below is a list of materials that will be needed to build a bath from a bar:

a) a bar of 150x150 mm, although it is possible to use a bar with a section of 100 mm or 200 mm;

b) floorboard (an edged board 150x50 mm 4 meters long is excellent);

c) hardwood boards for the ceiling (usually lining with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 20 mm or more is used);

d) material for wall decoration (as a rule, the same lining is used);

e) material for vapor barrier (an excellent option would be to use a vapor barrier film);

f) waterproofing (it is advisable to use penofol, although plastic wrap is suitable);

g) ceiling insulation (a good option is mineral wool materials);

h) sheet asbestos for insulation of wooden structures from temperature effects, including for walls near the stove and elements located next to the chimney;

i) cement, sand and crushed stone for the foundation (recommendation - cement should be purchased before starting construction);

j) roofing material for the roof, which can be selected based on personal preferences and, most importantly, that it fits organically into the surrounding roofs of other buildings;

l) insulation for the intervening space (it is better to use jute, although moss or tow are perfect).

The best time to start construction is in spring, since after the completion of the main construction work, it is necessary for the timber to dry out and shrink. This requires at least 6 months.

Do-it-yourself bath - step by step instructions.

Step I - preparation of the site for construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clear the site - remove shrubs, stumps, remove debris and everything that will interfere with the work on the foundation.

Step II - building the foundation.

It is best to build a bath from a bar on a columnar foundation, which is inexpensive and great for the construction of small wooden and frame buildings.

When constructing it, you first need to dig the estimated number of holes for the installation of supports. Their number is calculated as follows - the supports must be installed in the corners of the building and at the intersection of the walls, as well as with a certain step along their perimeter.

The step is chosen taking into account the type of soil and the estimated total weight of the structure. The depth of the holes should be 1-1.5 meters, although depending on the depth of freezing of the soil in a given area, it can change. To complete this type of foundation, in addition to the materials listed above, asbestos-cement pipes and fittings will be required.

At the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to fill in a mixture of sand and crushed stone 10-15 cm thick. Then install an asbestos-cement pipe of the required length in it, strictly vertically, and fix it. Several reinforcement bars should be placed inside the pipe.

After that, pour concrete mortar into the pipe and into the free space between the walls of the pit and the pipe.

After pouring the solution, you need to wait a few days, and then lay a half-brick wall between the posts.

Step III - wall erection and roofing.

The traditional material for the construction of bath walls is a bar of 150x150 mm in size. Before laying the first crown, it is imperative to put waterproofing on the foundation. The lower part of the crown must be treated with an antiseptic. Most often, the timber is laid out in the "paw" method.

The first crown must be carefully aligned geometrically - all angles must be exactly 90 degrees. After the first crown has been erected, they begin to lay the beams for the set of walls. Laying out the walls, you need to make openings for future doors and windows and be sure to insulate each row with the selected heat-insulating material.

To connect the crowns, pins are used - metal or wooden pins.

After the walls are removed, the roof is installed. Depending on the selected roof shape, it is necessary to fix the rafters, which are attached to the upper rim with brackets.

When installing a sloped roof, the rafters are fixed either with two external or one external and one internal supports. When erecting a gable roof, it is necessary to reliably support the rafters from below on the wall, and connect them together from above to form a roofing ridge.

Sheathing boards are attached to the fixed rafters, then hydro and vapor barrier, insulation are placed on them.

The installation of the roof is completed by the installation of the selected roofing material.

Step IV - interior finishing work.

Interior decoration must begin with a communications device - sewage, water supply, electricity. You should worry about the sewage system even during the design and construction of the foundation.

It is necessary to dig a drainage well next to the future bath, into which a sewer pipe buried in the ground with a slope enters for draining out of the washing department.

After the installation of the sewage system, a clean floor is made, which is made of wood or concrete. The concrete floor is more durable, most often it is tiled with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

If a wooden floor is chosen for interior decoration, it is usually made leaky. To do this, floor boards are nailed to the installed logs with a small gap, or a small drain hole is installed in the floor, closed with a grate.

In this case, the floor must be made with a slight slope towards the drain. Then the water that has got into the drain will be discharged through the sewer pipe into the drainage well.

After the installation of the sewage system, it is necessary to carry out insulation, hydro and vapor insulation of the walls and ceiling with the help of appropriate materials, to conduct electricity and water supply.

After installing windows and doors, then finishing the room using, for example, lining.

After finishing the finishing, you need to install the necessary electrical appliances.

Step V - installing the oven and shelves.

There are a lot of options for placing shelves, you just need to comply with the recommended sizes and the fact that they should be made of hardwood. The installation principle is simple - a stable frame is mounted, usually from a bar, and boards are attached to it.

The oven must be installed in full compliance with fire safety requirements. Wooden structures must be insulated from the high temperatures of the operating stove and chimney. In the case of a large furnace weight, its installation must be carried out on a specially equipped foundation. This is determined on a case-by-case basis, depending on the selected oven.

The stove is chosen according to the preference of the owner. It can be a traditional wood-burning stove, a metal wood-burning stove or an electric stove, sometimes it is advisable to choose a gas stove for a bath.

Step VI - choosing accessories

There are many bath accessories.

The main ones are:

- brooms (oak, birch and others);
- containers (buckets, basins);
- wooden ladle for adding water;
- wooden floor grates and much more.

Additional individuality can be added by the interior decoration of the premises, which remains at the discretion of the owner - here, depending on desires and financial capabilities, you can give free rein to your imagination.

It should be added that all the listed accessories can be made by yourself. The bathhouse is a great place to spend time in a pleasant, friendly company or with your family. It will be much more pleasant to realize that all this is done with your own hands, including useful and necessary devices: for example, hangers, lamps or ventilation grilles.

Enjoy Your Bath!

Video about building a bath yourself.

Almost every owner of a land plot, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, the bath is not just a washing room, but also an important element of a summer cottage. Turnkey construction of a bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you can choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find the best option for a bath for your summer cottage.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a project for a bath. To do this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Consider what size bath will work best for your family. What premises will be located inside the bath. What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof from, do not forget also about finishing the bath. An important point in the design is the placement of the boiler and the way it is fired.
Below you can familiarize yourself with the popular bath projects:

- The bath project is 4x4 meters in size.

- Baths project - 4x6 meters.

- Baths project - 5x6 meters.

- Baths project - 6x3 meters.

Baths project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the dimensions and materials for the bath, you need to make an estimate of the costs.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundations are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, foundations of the following types are made:

Slab foundation.
Column foundation for light walls.
Pile foundation.
Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation, reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

Cement.
Sand.
Gravel.
Armature.
Formwork.
Roofing material.
Wire.
Shovels.
Concrete mixer.
Harness.
Stakes.
Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure, and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bathhouse made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. Having installed the markup, do the following:

Guided by the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
Cover the bottom of the trenches with tar paper for waterproofing.
Backfill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
Place the formwork around the edges of the trench.
Make a frame reinforcing the foundation from reinforcement rods connected by wire.
Place the reinforcement cage in the formwork.
Using a concrete mixer, make a cement slurry in the proportion of one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
Pour cement into the formwork, taking care not to allow air voids.
After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

The following materials are used for the construction of walls:

Wooden bar.
Logs.
Boards.
Brick.
Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete and so on).

Since the construction of a bathhouse from logs or bricks is already widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame bath from a bar of 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. Make the bottom harness, for this take bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by cutting out spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When making the strapping, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
2. Install vertical racks of 5x10 cm timber. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
3. In the process of work, fix the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
5. When making the final fastening of the upper harness, carefully monitor the position of the uprights, checking their evenness with a level.
6. Be sure to reinforce all corner joints with diagonal posts, this will help prevent the frame from skewing.
7. Make a ceiling batten.
8. After making the frame, make the outer sheathing of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want the appearance of gaps between the boards, then make sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles siding wall decoration.

After sheathing the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Foam or rock wool sheets are installed along the vertical posts of the frame.
On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to the vertical posts using thin slats.
After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the outside of the ceiling with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be performed after the installation of the roof.

Roof

There are three types of roof for a bath:

Shed.
Gable.
Difficult - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually, the first two options are used for a bath. Let's consider an option for a gable roof covered with metal tiles:

Roof manufacturing begins with installation - Mauerlat. In the case of frame walls, the upper outline plays the role of the Mauerlat.

Place the uprights on the bed.
Connect the struts with purlins and braces.
Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, girder and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
Install sheets of metal tiles.
Sheathe the gables with wooden battens or sheet metal.

For a clearer acquaintance with the roof attachment, a picture is shown:

All sizes of roof elements are shown in the list:

Please note that the less you tilt the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor water drainage and leaks.

Floors

Floor construction depends on the type of room. The common wood floors are made in the break room. In the washroom and steam room, the floors are made of two levels:

The first level is made of concrete and has a slope towards the drain hole.
The second level is a finished floor of planks with gaps for water drainage.

If you want to make a floor from porcelain stoneware or tiles, then they are simply laid on the first level with a slope towards the drain hole.

In order to make a concrete floor and a drain in the bath, you need:

In the center of the steam room and the washing room, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. The pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewage system.
Lay a layer of waterproofing material.
Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of the rooms.
Make a grout and fill the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain pipe.
Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the drain.

In the second stage, wooden floors are made:

Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a lag, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm. Or 4x6 cm.
Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm on the logs.
In rooms where water is supposed to drain, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget to treat all parts with wood impregnation before starting the installation of wooden floors. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of a boiler for a bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced gas or electricity colas, they can be purchased from specialized firms.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. The walls are at the height of the boiler, covered with iron sheets. A good solution would be to overlay the boiler with a brick, there you will reduce its cooling time and protect the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the chimney is in contact with the ceiling. The chimney opening should be insulated with refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this area is prone to leakage, so you should carefully cover it up. Below are the options for boilers for a bath:

- Homemade boiler made of metal sheets.

- Gas boiler.

- Electric boiler.

Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, you need to equip it:

- Bring all communications on the site to the bath - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

- Place a sink, shower cubicle, light sources, and furniture for rest inside.

- Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

Buy wooden tubs, buckets, ladles and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests, take a steam bath in your personal bath!

Instructions for assembling a mini-bath for a summer residence without a foundation, you can also watch in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and designs for the bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we present photos of the most unusual baths:

Mobile bathhouse made of "lining", built on a car trailer.

Bathhouse in a huge wine barrel.

Bath from plastic bottles.

Bathhouse dugout, built right in the ground.

Bath, arranged in an iron container.

Forest sauna made of untreated logs.

A beautiful bathhouse from a gun carriage.

Bath from not edged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that the heating of the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bathhouse from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high air humidity and the risk of a short circuit due to condensation is very high.

We hope that reading our article will push you to build a bath yourself!

It is not an easy task to build a bathhouse from a log house, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the times of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood the age-old competition with bathrooms and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which construction is preferable, how to choose a place for its placement, how it generally works - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which occurred quite often due to violations during the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no special need to link a summer cottage bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the summer cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from outside spectators (thick bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main premises of the bath are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have a place for furniture (locker for clothes, bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). The washing room will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and a place for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bath of the following sizes is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; Steam room - 2x1.5 m

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, recreation rooms, etc.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bath is located in the south, and the window openings are on the western (south-western) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow illuminating its premises with sunlight for a longer time.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

Procurement of basic materials.
Selection and laying of the foundation.
Creation of the foundation for the heater-stove (if necessary).
Creation of the floor and sewerage system of the bath.
Assembly of the bathhouse.
Roof construction.
Formation of a blind area along the perimeter.
Caulking the walls of the bath.
Masonry or installation of a stove, installation of a chimney.
Bath electrics and water supply.
Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful constructional material for a Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What kind of wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, saunas are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable inner atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, the bottom rims and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for the construction of a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, when the tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture, it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk will do, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of conifers, dryness, sanded surface, the absence of decayed areas and places of damage by the woodworm beetle.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on the local soil. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with maximum accuracy - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying any type of foundation: cleaning the site from debris, completely removing the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (removing the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
Heavily soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and coarse sand grains.

Column (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly weeping soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junction of the internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of the pillar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the construction site of the bath, the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square, with a side of 380 mm, the auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100-150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

The foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be made independently. This will require a demountable formwork made of boards, coated from the inside with non-hardening grease such as "Emulsol". Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For the casting of foundation pillars inside the pits opened for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, tar paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete column from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For the wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is raised by swinging it by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

As a columnar foundation, asbestos-cement pipes can be used, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is sufficiently smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be coated with mineral-based construction grease to reduce the threat of freezing to the ground.

In the intervals between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out, their sufficient thickness is brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought out to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. During casting, the pillars of the required shape are made of metal into the ends of the pillars - they are intended for fastening the frame of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

Marking the construction site with twine stretched between the pegs.
Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, not less than 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (70-100 mm each).
Formwork installation.
Reinforcement tab.
Pouring concrete mix.

The reinforcement, laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches, must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5: 3: 1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required for pouring a strip foundation is quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry mix of concrete is the lack of weights on construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation poured into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, hit with a hammer on the outer side of the formwork (we eliminate the air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the time allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if lifting the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

Roofing material.
Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
Masonry mesh.
Red brick.
Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic (for roofing tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row method of dressing: a masonry mortar is laid out on a layer of roofing material, on it - the first brick row "in a poke" (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are placed, but already "in a spoon" (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in a spoon" and "in a poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th stitch rows of masonry, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts from pipe scraps - 5-7 ducts are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the mortar is sand: cement as 1: 2 or 1: 3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent heater base and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the sauna blockhouse. If the main masonry of the heater is supposed, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically not higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the sauna floor - their task is to relieve the visitors of the bath from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. The wooden floor covering wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance; after 6-8 years, it may require replacement. Tile will be more practical for a bath floor covering - it is easier to care for it, it is not susceptible to the effects of moisture easily flowing down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep the heat), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm below the floor in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in a washing and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and 100 mm of a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well tamped and leveled. Then lay roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

First option- flooring of a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement mortar, after which you can start tiling.
Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). The composition of the mixture: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the installation of perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a slight breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the exact proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bathhouse above the ground level (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the premises of the bath do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs of the frame will be the supports for the logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. The support posts for the lags must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the lag, it is necessary to make the foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

The solution to the flooring in this case is as follows: the concreted space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with an overlap of walls to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation), a rough floor of 29 mm is attached to the lower side of the logs edged boards. Then a PVC film is laid, foil-clad mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top, pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the stove foundation to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm softwood grooved planks.

An important point: when finishing the clean floor, and indeed the entire room of the steam room and the washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially important for the room of the steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain waste water from the bath, you will need: a sump with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the sump and then into the sewer.

The pit comes off outside the basement of the bath, from the premises of the steam room and the washing room, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit must be 500 mm apart from the foundation, its depth is 700 mm, and the section is 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe (s) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main drainage well, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid down a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured over it - with a layer of at least 500 mm. Tamp each layer thoroughly when laying.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the weir opening.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), between them to lay felt, and the top cover must be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust on top.

Log house, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers, its manufacture is rather difficult. The disassembled finished log house must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm spike staples with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, the sheathing is attached to them, then the roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (preferably to the penultimate one) using spike staples. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in a given area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Angled single-pitch rafters are attached with two external or internal and external supports. If the length of the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are propped up with additional struts. The rafters of the gable roof rest on the lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be ventilated, i.e. equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area around the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deep 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board, covered with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill in with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - covered with dry cement with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the basement of the bath must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Sauna log caulking

It is carried out to insulate a log house - to seal the gaps between its logs, linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, woolen felt are traditionally used for caulking. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced by factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax. The advantage of factory-made materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to damage by moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made materials, since it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is performed - from the outside and inside of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a beater, you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these tools are made from wood (ash, oak or beech). The caulking blade looks like a wedge with a 200 mm long handle and a 100 mm pointed blade, 30 mm thick handle, 65 mm blade width at the base, 30 mm at the end. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - "in a set" or "in a stretch". In the second way, we caulk as follows: we collect caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the buried groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller with them and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are fully confident that the groove (gap) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking in 2 mm strands, from which we form several loops and drive them into the slot. The loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only after - along the lower;
We begin the caulking work with the slots of the lower crown, on both sides of it. Then we move on to the lower rim of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower rims, we begin work on the next in height, moving from this rim to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or from left to right, it doesn't matter).

Do not under any circumstances caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to be skewed, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is carried out in the "bottom-up" direction along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the stove-heater

There are many design options for stoves for baths, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated from electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick stoves in baths are made with a wall thickness of "half a brick" or "a whole brick", masonry joints must be tied up especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the highest efficiency of the stove. Only red bricks are used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters, installed for lovers of steam, are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). For filling the stove chamber, rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, stoves differ from them with a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, cast iron ingots must be added to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of the steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

Observing a 40-50 mm distance in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When passing the chimney through the attic room, be sure to fluff up the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not run closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

To wash one user of the bath, at least 8 liters of hot water are required. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container with water on a stove, use a gas water heater, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained in the winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing a submersible pump for pumping it and providing such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you need a special cable - we sweep away the "bare" aluminum immediately, stopping at two options: self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (over 30 years), it is strong and does not need to be supported on a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, since it is too thick (the minimum section is 16 mm 2). The aluminum self-supporting insulated wire cannot be pulled through the attic of the bathhouse according to fire safety standards, it is required to fasten it to special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on an insulated plastic wire, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the cottage will want to supply from it to the future.

All tuso-junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should be outdoor installation only. According to fire safety rules, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all the internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed on special clips, the passage of the cable through the partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from the bottom or from the side, but not from the top - a drop of condensation, sliding along the braid, can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture resistance class of at least IP44 (better than the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps - a metal body, only a glass shade. All connections of the internal cable routing - only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of the RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician, if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it by laying in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually performed in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with casing and will not be able to carry out full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing / steam room, a heater and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - linden, pine grooved board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath, you need to arrange windows of a small size (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them in low - enough so that through them you can look out to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a vent or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in the premises of the bath must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in the washing section of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it is inconvenient to walk, but it will keep the heat). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). The door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the "floors" of two-row shelves must be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm and a thickness of 40 mm; a gap of 15 mm in width is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Shelving boards for shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the heads of which are sunk into the wood; from below - with screws. For fastening, nails and screws from stainless steel or copper are chosen.

All corners in the structure of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero emery paper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and beams without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire-fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace, make sure that the oven doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing equipment nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can freely open the steam room and washroom doors when firing up the sauna. Do not obstruct passages, spaces in front of doors and windows.

Sauna has a general strengthening effect on the human body, helps to cleanse from harmful substances. Under the influence of elevated temperature, the pores of the skin expand and open, freeing themselves from impurities and removing subcutaneous fat with the help of the sebaceous glands. The work of the kidneys improves, and there is a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system.

Among other things, a sauna is a great pastime for relieving stress and boosting immunity.

Peculiarities

Everyone dreams of their own personal sauna in a private house, cottage or even in an apartment. You can use the services of professional organizations, or you can think over and do the arrangement of a sauna on your own.

The undoubted advantages of arranging a sauna right in a house or apartment are obvious: you do not need to run out hot and wet into the cold air, risking getting sick. You can immediately shower and dry off, pour tea after the sauna and enjoy your rest. But the construction of such a sauna will require a specific plan and the observance of the relevant rules and regulations.

Even before the start of the construction phase, you need to determine the location of the sauna. Will it be located directly in the living area, or in the attic, or, for example, in the basement.

In fact, an ordinary home sauna is a wooden cabin that has increased heat and vapor barrier properties. These measures are necessary to preserve the main room where the sauna will be located.

The construction of each type must be considered separately, since the construction of each has many differences and nuances. The size and configuration may differ depending on the room allocated for the sauna, and the construction order and interior arrangement, as a rule, do not differ much.

One of the main points is ventilation.

The main condition is that the circulating air does not completely go out into the street, but enters the premises from which it enters the steam room. That is, a competent arrangement involves the creation of a technical room intended only for the movement of air from the steam room to the street.

Heated air must circulate in these two compartments. The air inlet is located under the stove, and the outlet is under the ceiling, but on the opposite wall. The air entering the steam room heats up and passes into the air duct, where it creates a protective cushion, as if protecting the steam room from rapid cooling. And also it is imperative to provide a common outlet from the duct.

If the stove is equipped with an overheating sensor or is more concerned about saving energy in the house, then the following rule must be adhered to when building a sauna.

It is very important to place the entrance door to the steam room on the same wall as the oven. If you do not do this, but place the door opposite the stove, then the cold air, passing through the doorway, will collide with the hot air coming from the stove. This will naturally cool the hot air.

As a result, you can get a constant operation of the overheating sensor, since the oven will constantly try to raise the falling temperature, as well as excessive power consumption.

Before starting the manufacture of the structure, it is necessary to check the walls, ceiling and floor for the presence of hidden communication systems. To avoid damage to wiring, sewage or ventilation, you need to immediately indicate their location... There are special inexpensive devices for detecting buried wiring and sewers.

Project

The need for a special project is only when a sauna or bathhouse is being built in a separate room or building. Well, as a rare exception, it is possible to draw up a project if the sauna is still located in the main dwelling and occupies a vast area, for example, more than 5 square meters.

To draw up such project documentation, you need special knowledge or the help of a specialized organization. But in this case, it is worth considering the construction of a small sauna, which is accessible to everyone. When purchasing a ready-made integrated steam room, you can use the installation instructions that come with the kit.

It describes in detail all the steps to build a sauna from the frame to the last screw, so the project in this case loses all meaning and significance.

If there is a desire to make the sauna more exclusive and individual, then it is quite possible to prepare a sketch or outline of the structure of the future steam room.

When making a sketch, be sure to take into account the following conditions:

the ceiling height should be from 2.1-2.3 meters, it should not be done higher due to poor heating of the air volume;
the height of the upper shelf is around 120 cm from the floor;
the distance between the shelves is at least 40 cm;
when installing the shelves, the distance between the slats is at least 5 mm, this is necessary for the circulation of hot air: the reception of the steam room will be more efficient and the shelves themselves will last longer;
when calculating the volume of the steam room, it is worth considering 3 cubic meters per person.

Materials (edit)

Particular attention should be paid to the procurement of materials for the construction of a sauna in the house. In no case should you use those that are capable of heating above +50 degrees. All materials that can cause burns should be excluded, it is recommended to use only wood... But there may be exceptions.

For example, natural composites such as serpentinite, jadeite, talcochlorite are used to cover the walls around the furnace. In some cases, the floor can be covered with ceramic tiles.

It is not recommended to use resinous trees for any parts that are freely available: ladles, benches, door handles. You can also not use such wood in the manufacture of the ceiling.

It is imperative to exclude any paints and varnishes or similar chemical materials during the construction or decoration of the sauna.

When heated, they can release harmful substances and deform. And you can protect the wood covering from excess moisture with special means with a water-repellent effect. As a rule, this does not change the natural color of the wood.

In order not to be mistaken with the choice of sauna cladding, you should first familiarize yourself with the features of the various tree species. This information will be useful as some breeds can have a beneficial effect on the human body.

Most often, the following types of wood are used for interior decoration of the sauna:

African oak - abashi... It does not burn even when heated, does not emit resin - ideal for cladding in a sauna or steam bath, but it has a high cost;
cedar... There are Ussuri Altai and Canadian. It is easy to process and has good moisture protection, does not rot. Cedar is saturated with healing essential oils, is used in folk medicine, destroys pathogenic microbes and promotes the accumulation of energy;
Linden Is a durable and hard wood with a pleasant aroma. It has medicinal properties and a pleasant aroma. As a rule, it is with this material that saunas in Russia are trimmed;

larch- it is a reddish wood, which is not inferior to oak in mechanical properties. Wood contains a certain amount of phytoncides, which have a beneficial effect on the human body. It has a long service life, with a slight drawback - the wood is very resinous;
spruce and pine grow only in the northern regions. The wood is very dense and durable. It is very resistant to the appearance of fungi, has a pleasant coniferous aroma;
aspen- This is the most inexpensive and easy-to-process material. It is light in color and does not contain resins. It is necessary to impregnate the wood, since aspen is often sick, and it also darkens over time;
Birch Is a solid wood with a homogeneous structure and a matte sheen after processing. It has a beneficial effect, replenishing the strength of a tired body.

Construction

Planning and creating a mini-sauna for a private house with your own hands is a rather laborious process. It is possible to equip a structure with a pool correctly on the basement floor or, for example, on the second. It will look good in a brick or frame house. For these purposes, an extension made of aerated concrete or lumber material is also suitable.

The Finnish sauna is often set up in the basement... The main thing is that there is a step-by-step instruction, all the drawings and a suitable design thought out.

As a rule, the construction of a sauna always starts from the floor. It is recommended to give preference to all the same tiled flooring over wood... The tiled option is much more practical and economical. The tiles do not need to be coated with special compounds to protect them from moisture; it is enough to wash and wipe them.

To begin with, it is worth removing the old covering in the room and making a screed. You need to put tiles on the screed, while it is better to use the usual one without any special requirements.

Next, you need to build a frame. Before installing the rails, it is imperative to make a vapor barrier of the walls; in this case, you can use glassine or bituminous paper. The vapor barrier is fixed to the wall with an overlap of 14–19 cm using a wooden strip and a stapler.

For a wooden frame, it is recommended to use a square beam with a cross section of 5 cm... The number of bursa and horizontal slats is selected depending on the project or the size of the sauna. The step between the support beams is selected based on the calculation of the width of the insulation material.

To install the ceiling of the frame, it is enough to throw a few beams and secure them securely. Immediately you need to prepare a hole for mounting power supply and ventilation... The insulation is placed in the cells between the beams of the vertical frame.

To save money on construction, you should use ordinary mineral wool.

The insulation should be covered with aluminum foil, which will keep the heat inside the sauna. Make sure that it is fixed with the mirror side inside the steam room.

Washing in a summer cottage is a pleasure available to everyone. It does not require large investments for its construction. In a minimal layout, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in the country quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start with the study of ready-made options, we will discuss the wall, floor, stove and sewer designs that are popular among the masters.

Design features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
Compact fast heating oven.
Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo # 1 we see the simplest bathhouse, reminiscent of the barrel of Diogenes. You can only take a steam bath in it. It will not be possible to wash here, since there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do it. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bath and bring the drain pipe into the septic tank.

Photo # 1 Build such a "barrel-bath" at the dacha and steam for your pleasure

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, which allows it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The device of the simplest bathhouse from the container category is shown in photo # 2.

Photo # 2 Option of a container summer cottage bath

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with an outdoor shower or supplement the room with sewerage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's pay attention to cellular polycarbonate. From it you can quickly and easily assemble an original design. In order for it to keep heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden bars. A mineral wool insulation, 10 cm thick, is laid between them.

The ends of the structure can be made of boards by stuffing them on a wooden insulated frame. Place such a bath anywhere: at the dacha, on the polar ice floe or on the summit of Everest, and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo # 5).

Photo # 5 Simple barrel-shaped sauna

A small Russian bath, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photo # 6.

Photo # 6 Oak posts - an excellent support for a small wooden bath

Larger structures need their own foundations. Three options are possible here:

Rubble concrete tape.
Brick posts.
Piles from asbestos-cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and construction of the walls. Pile and columnar bases are used to install a wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

Photo # 7 Bathhouse made of self-supporting insulated wire panels on screw piles

Photo №8 Brick posts - the best option for timber, log and frame structures

"Tape" made of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (from gas silicate blocks, logs and frame).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of the bath is obtained by technology. For such a structure, you will need a little: a car of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo # 10).

The best shape for a wood-burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce the masonry corners, looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build just such a simple and warm bath (photo No. 11).

Photo №11 Wicker frame coated with clay - "know-how" of inexpensive bath construction

Recommendations for the choice of finishes, insulation, sewerage, floor, roof and stove

For the exterior decoration of the frame bath, the following materials can be recommended:

Wooden blockhouse.
Metal tile or profiled sheet.
Plastic siding.
Cement particle board (DSP).
OSB board.
Flat slate.

Photo №12 Simple, but at the same time very nice version of the exterior decoration of the bath with the help of unedged boards

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If there is no ecowool in your area, then you can buy ordinary mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easy and simple to place in the gaps between the frame posts.

To protect the mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil-clad polyethylene. After that, a frame made of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

Photo №13 Steam and thermal insulation of the walls of a summer cottage, built of any material

We do not recommend installing OSB indoors. This material emits toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Variants of steam and thermal insulation of the walls of the frame structure, as well as a bath, built of blocks or logs, are shown in Figure 1.

Building a simple do-it-yourself bath includes a sewer system. It can be made from standard plastic pipes brought into a cesspool or drainage well.

The intake funnel is located in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. A wooden floor is a great option, but it rots quickly in the bath and needs to be replaced. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and placing them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The construction of the sauna ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is "shot" to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are filled. Cladding from the lining is fixed to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with a roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

Rice No. 2 Construction of the ceiling of the country bath

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on the installation of the ceiling and roof is being completed by installing the main lathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).

The main "detail" of any summer cottage is a stove. It must provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To store heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a stone compartment. There are many options for stoves-heaters for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a large-diameter steel pipe, an old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo # 16).

Photo # 15-16 A simple stove made of a pipe and a stove made of ferrous metal

Having mastered the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.