Fastening the timber to the dovetail. "Dovetail" mount, connection How to dock boards with a dovetail

Of the various types of connections between two removable parts in mechanics and the wood industry, the dovetail mount is the strongest and most reliable. In working with wood, this type of joints, or locks, is used in all forms of production.

Ways to use dovetail attachment:

1. furniture manufacture;
2. connection of workpieces to each other;
3. connection of bars;
4. fastening timber in the construction of houses.

With large-scale production, the structure of this lock is quickly and successfully performed by a dovetail cutter. At home, in the absence of milling equipment, it is easy to make a dovetail with your own hands. At the same time, the ability to make this structure with high quality is considered a high-class craftsmanship.

This article provides a detailed description of the manufacturing process, with a step-by-step listing of all the techniques, so that a master of any level would understand how to make a dovetail.

Preparation for work

Before starting, the following materials and tools should be prepared.

Materials (edit)

Tools

List of tools used in the manufacture:

• a circular saw;
• belt sander;
• manual eccentric sander;
• Miter saw;
• band-saw;
• manual frezer;
• workbench with clamping vise;
• chisel straight;
• manual jigsaw;
• finger mill 10 mm;
• clamp;
• joiner's square;
• ruler:
• pencil;
• file;
• sandpaper, grain 100.

Description of the manufacturing process

The design of this carpentry lock is a tight joining of two parts. At the end of one bar, a V-shaped protrusion is made, resembling a dovetail (where the name comes from). On the second bar, a cut is made in the shape of this protrusion. The thickness of this spike can be the full width, and the floor of the tree. The thorn and the cut are made at an angle of 10-12 degrees.

This article describes the process of making this joinery joint into a wood floor. The type of product that should be the result is shown in the figure.

1. Using a circular saw, cut 2 identical pieces of wood.
2. They are processed on a grinder.
3. The ends of the bars are cut with a miter saw.

Advice! In the event that multiple connections are required, it is recommended that a dovetail pattern be made from a thin, dense material, which increases productivity. The described example shows a one-off production of this structure.

When the ledge is ready, a slot must be made for it on the second workpiece. To do this, markup is made on the second workpiece, using the first in the form of a template. It is necessary to make the markings as accurate as possible, since any backlash between the parts is not allowed. The design will be unreliable. For this reason, the upper lines are drawn with a cutting knife. The middle is marked with a pencil.

Next, you have to select in the bar, according to the marks made with a jigsaw, a slot for a thorn. This can be done in two ways. In the first case, the slot is selected using a chisel, chisels, a file and sandpaper. It is necessary to be extremely careful here, because it is necessary to maintain a perfectly flat surface for joining and gluing parts.

If a manual router is available, it is much easier to make a dovetail with a router, since it is much easier to get the perfect result in this case than by hand.

In order to complete the dovetail connection, and to ensure a tight and reliable connection of the parts, on workpiece 2, using a chisel, they carefully cut the edges of the sides, periodically trying on the spike and trying to insert it into the slot. The spike should fit snugly, but without undue effort.

Important! After the spike has entered the intended place, the parts should be disconnected. In order to do this, it is necessary to clamp the workpiece 2 in a vice, and using a wooden mallet, carefully knock out a bar with a spike from the slot, as shown in the figure. If you try to do this by hand, you can break the thorn.

Finally, wood glue is applied to the surface of both parts to be joined. The parts are connected to each other and pressed tightly with a clamp.

After a certain time required for the glue to harden, the part is cleaned of glue residues using a chisel. A manual eccentric sander brings the surface of the finished structure to an ideal state. The construction is ready.

Conclusion

Practice shows that the dovetail connection is the most common of reliable wooden locks in the joinery industry. When properly manufactured and bonded securely, it can withstand high tensile, shock and vibration loads. It has been used since the construction of wooden houses. In the old days, this castle, common in the carpentry and carpentry business, called the dovetail, was called a frying pan.

Currently, this type of wooden lock is widespread throughout all countries, in all types of wooden joints.

Video

In carpentry, there is a fairly large number of connections between parts. One of them is the "dovetail". This type of connection can be seen on drawers, chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, then they will abut against each other. In order to make a dovetail with your own hands, you need a minimum of tools and a little experience in carpentry.

Connection types

Depending on the task at hand, the "dovetail" can be done in different ways:

• Corner connections.
• Separating.
• Through.
• Decorative.
• Bevelled connection.
• Through-rebate connection.

All types of connection have their own strengths and weaknesses, but one way or another, they form a reliable connection of two parts. To work you will need the following tools:

With these tools, the connection can be made with ease. If there is an opportunity to use, then the need for the listed tools disappears.

Through connection type

This type of connection is widely used in the manufacture of both cabinet and upholstered furniture. It is also called "box".

To begin with, the workpiece must be processed with a plane and remove excess wood. The next step is to mark the nests. Everything here is individual and depends on the width of the board, as well as on the tasks. You need to draw lines across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them into an even number, set aside 3 mm on each side and draw lines across the end.

Now you need to mark the slope of the spikes with a small one. The surplus that remains should be marked to avoid confusion in the future.

After marking, you can start cutting the thorns. This can be done with a jigsaw. or a regular saw with a fine tooth. For convenience, the workpiece can be clamped in a vice. Using a saw, you need to cut one edge on each side of the thorn. Sawing should be done carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps, which will further spoil the appearance. The same must be done with the other side pins.

Side waste should be cut off from the shoulder line, and the excess wood between the spikes can be easily removed with an openwork saw. Residue on both sides can be removed with a chisel or beveled chisel.

The cutting of the thorns is complete, and you can start marking and cutting out the nests. Using all the same vice, clamp the workpiece. The spiked part must be attached to the workpiece and carefully mark the shape of the spikes.

After marking, carefully cut out the nests along the previously marked lines. The cut from the main part should be done in such a way that it does not slightly reach the marking line. Carefully cut off part of the waste with an openwork saw. In order for the two parts to sit tightly together, it is necessary to clean the corners with a chisel.

When the two connections are ready, you can start to dock them. It should be remembered that the connection is assembled only once. Before gluing the parts, you need to make sure that they fit tightly together. If there are any irregularities, then they must be removed before gluing.

If everything sits tightly, then the following manipulations should be performed:

• Two blanks must be anointed with glue, then connected together.
• By tapping with a wooden mallet, adjust the two parts. Remove excess glue. Otherwise, the appearance will be spoiled after drying.
• After drying, the place of bonding is cleaned with a sander on both sides.
• Then check the angle, which should be 1/8 for hardwood and 1/6 for softwood. If the angle is too large, a short fiber will form, which can affect the strength of the bond.

All of these points also apply to other connection modifications. And they should be done in the same sequence.

Decorative variety

This type of connection is used in places where beauty is needed. This connection also emphasizes the art of the master. In order to give a decorative look, thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece, carefully draw a line to mark the shoulders. Continue the marking line to the end and mark the excess. When cutting the tenons, it is necessary to remove the waste in the same way as with the through joints. Stripping must be done from the ends to the middle.

Before fixing, the workpiece must be anointed with chalk for a more rigid fixation. At the end, you need to mark the distance between the small partitions, and then continue all the lines of the spikes to the line of the shoulders, you must not forget about removing the excess. Most of the waste can be removed with a tenon cutter, and the shoulders are best trimmed with an openwork saw. To cut out small partitions, it is necessary to press down firmly on the workpiece.

Slowly along the grain, make a cross cut next to the shoulder line. The operations should be repeated. After the manipulations done, apply glue and fasten both surfaces together.

Bevel connection

In some cases, it is necessary to combine two types of connection. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and the chamfer.

Using a planer, mark the shoulder line on both sides. Draw a bevel line on the top edge. At the bottom of the workpiece, mark a specific chamfer depth. Draw a line across the butt and up to the shoulder line. Put another line 6 mm long from the first mark. Do the same with the bottom edge. Mark the required number of spikes on the resulting marks. Mark the remaining surplus.

Cut out the thorns with a jigsaw and adjust with fine emery paper. In this option, the surplus is temporarily retained. Draw a line of shoulders on both sides. Make a small mark on the bevel line at the top edge. On the workpiece, mark the studs and the bevel on the lower part. After the end of the manipulation, remove all excess.

Folded connection

Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special selection is made, which is called "folds", and the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection, gaps may appear in the corners, which can be removed by shifting the shoulder.

The markup is slightly different from previous versions. On the sides, you need to draw a line along which it will be possible to determine the depth of the fold. The inner side is marked with the same thickness planer parameters. Mark 6 mm below the rebate depth, and place the next mark from the opposite edge. On the resulting marks, mark the desired location of the spikes. Draw a line across the chamfered edge, but at the same time it must fully correspond to the marked rebate.

The marking of the nests is done in the same way as in the previous versions, using a ready-made blank with spikes and drawing accessories.

Another variation of this connection is the bevel connection. In it, the entire connection is hidden by a bevel, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling, the workpiece must be adjusted to the desired size. It should be remembered that the nests must be made first, and then the spikes. The marking of the thorns is carried out identically to the other option, but with one caveat: between the line of the planer and the outer corner, using a special scribe and bevel, you should mark a bevel on each of the edges.

Make sure that there is no more than 6 mm from the shoulder line to the overlap. At the end between the drawn lines, you need to mark the width and position of the nests. For convenience, you can make a ready-made stencil from plywood, press it to the side walls and continue the marking line, after which all excess is removed. Before gluing two joints, you need to test them. If there are defects, then remove them with a chisel and sandpaper.

Inclined docking

Mainly used for dimensional parts. In terms of complexity, it is in first place. In order to make a thorn-groove with your own hands in this type of connection, it will take much more time. The complexity of manufacturing is associated with the peculiarity of the connection, in which all the edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking, the boards must be adjusted to the same width. The drawing for the dovetail joint will greatly facilitate the task.

The drawing should start with a side projection, and it is also necessary to apply the thickness and dimensions. As for the vertical projection, then it can be drawn, as well as the lateral one. Design the side view in the same way. The figure shows a drawing of a dovetail, the dimensions of which are a certain standard.

The next step is to cut the piece to length and width. Place a bevel on point X and transfer this angle to the inner side. Saw off the remaining ends. Place another bevel at corner Y and place it on the edges. Now you need guide lines, which you can get by connecting the marks on the edge.

Carefully peel off the end bevel. On the front side, mark the spiked parts. Measure the size of the material along the beveled ends. Attach a bevel to point X and mark a line along the edge of the parts. Place 6 mm notches on the top and bottom edges. The position of the cleats can be calculated from these marks.

The slope of the studs must be marked at the inclined end of the parts. For convenience, you can use a small one. Using a stencil and a square, mark the spikes. Mark the remaining surplus. When cutting thorns, you must rely on the previously marked corners, after which you can draw and cut out the nests using the finished workpiece.

All surplus at the end of the work is carefully removed. If the slope for some reason does not suit you, then it can be trimmed after gluing or cleaned off with a grinder. If you have to knock out the connections with a mallet, then you need to put a piece of the bar, otherwise traces may remain.

Manual frezer

If you constantly have to deal with such compounds and make them in large quantities, then the manual method will not work. There are stationary machines and, with the help of a special cutter in one pass, they will be able to make a certain number of spikes or "tails". To save even more time, templates can be made. To create spikes and tails, you must have a router bit.

Before milling, the workpiece should be placed vertically for convenience. Before that, you need to mark the number of tails. During milling, waste will be generated, which can be easily removed by the router.

Templates can be purchased in the marketplace or in the store to help you get things done even faster. Attach and fix the fixture to the top of the workpiece. Then set the required cutting depth on the router. After milling, all joints are smooth and require virtually no adjustment.

If carpentry work is coming and you need a strong and reliable connection of two parts, then the "dovetail" would be the best option. With a hand router, even a beginner in joinery can make spikes and tails. In addition, after assembly, such a connection looks aesthetically pleasing.

It is believed that the dovetail lock has sea roots; the dovetail was used to fasten ships with a wooden hull. Such a compound turned out to be the most resistant to wood wetting and multidirectional loads caused by sea waves. The main advantage of the technology is the reliable joining of wooden parts without the use of additional fasteners, the reliability of fastening is provided by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. The ship's carpenters' tool included a special dovetail saw.

Traditionally in Russia, the crowns of a log house were placed "in a bowl", such a grip was cut with an ax. With the advent of good-quality carpentry tools, they began to lay the log house "in a paw", the connection had a rectangular spike. A further development of this lock was the use of a dovetail spike with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for fixing the timber has become the main one in industrial housing construction, standard sizes and connection features are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard has created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses of industrial production are not inferior in quality to Finnish samples.

The standard establishes the types of dovetail joinery:

• Paw joint;
• Deaf "frying pan";
• Open frying pan;
• Fastening with a trapezoidal key.

A distinctive feature of these types of fastening is the tongue-and-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fastening a bar "in a paw" is the easiest way to build a log house, a reliable grip is provided by a trapezoidal spike, which is cut in the end part of each row of the crown. Correctly made and assembled lock reliably fixes the crowns of the frame in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from a bar and rounded logs, the connection "in the paw" is most often used in construction for shrinkage.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the structure; such a lock is called a "clean corner". A spike in such a structure is a load-bearing element and carries the main load. For the construction of a log house in a "clean corner", it is recommended to use a beam of maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

It is quite difficult to do the dovetail fasteners with your own hands, in order to avoid mistakes, a full-size dovetail thorn template is used for the timber, the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. The cuts are made with a hand-held circular saw. The easiest way is to make inclined cuts every 10-15 mm, squeeze the trimmings with an ax and clean up with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with lumber of natural moisture, in this case the spike is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the crowns, which in the process of shrinkage will be eliminated naturally.

Disadvantages and features of the dovetail connection:

• A "clean corner" has through slots that can expand over time;
• The log house does not have closed crowns, on each wall the masonry is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
• The corners of the building have an unpresentable appearance and do not decorate the facade;
• The developer is limited in the choice of the standard size of lumber.

Using the technology of a dovetail blockhouse, economy-class country houses, baths and outbuildings are being built; such construction is low-cost and affordable for a mass developer.

Deaf frying pan

This method in construction practice allows you to take full advantage of the advantages of trapezoidal fastening, a feature of which is a secret T-shaped tongue-and-groove connection. The size of the thorn does not exceed half a bar and is completely recessed into the body of the bar. The corner of the house, assembled using this technology, is called "warm corner". The lock provides reliable adhesion to the crown without through slots; when treated with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. In the same way, a timber is built up if its length is less than the length of the wall.

The profile is cut according to the drawing using a circular saw and a butt saw. A rectangular blank for a tenon and a groove is cut out with a circular, the given shape is given with a special hand saw. You can use a hand-held cutter to cut the groove; it is easy to equip the workplace yourself.

Advantages of the technology of fastening a deaf "frying pan":

• Improved thermal insulation of the building;
• You can use lumber of any standard size;
• The castle is "hidden", the facade is getting an attractive look;
• During construction, you can use a beam with a smaller profile;
• Provides an economical use of building material.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture content - lumber should have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers of turnkey ready-made houses.

Open frying pan

This method is used in the construction of internal partitions from a bar, laying logs for floors and ceilings. The groove is cut to the full width of the timber. The lock resembles a “claw” connection in a T-shaped version and provides fixation of the structure in the horizontal plane. This mount is simple, can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of the frying pan lock is a profile in the form of a rectangular trapezoid, the fasteners are called semi-rotary. Designed for wetter woods, this type of mount is popular with individual builders.

Trapezoidal key fastening

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in a keyway. The butterfly key formed by two trapezoidal shapes is made from hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines. At the dovetail keyed connection, the fastening dimensions are minimized, but such a design ensures reliable fastening of wooden structures of any complexity, and makes it possible to put the production of wood products on stream.

Key technology features:

• Requires precise processing of wood using modern technology and devices;
• Minimizes the consumption of resources and materials;
• Retains the attractive appearance of wood grain;
• Allows to manufacture wooden structures of any complexity.

Fastening with a dowel is used by manufacturers of ready-made wooden houses from expensive laminated veneer lumber and allows you to implement the most complex house projects.

Conclusion

Dovetail joining in house building is a reliable way of fastening wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. Such a mount is widely used in interior decoration and in the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in the manufacture of furniture.

Making a dovetail joint using the old handicraft method is not only an attempt to touch the past. Such a connection, done beautifully, will give your work an emphasized uniqueness.

Practice and patience will help you achieve the high level of craftsmanship required to craft dovetail joints by hand. If your first try is far from perfect, don't worry. Everyone in their practice goes through a similar stage of making joints before acquiring the necessary skills.

Start by preparing the tool shown in the photo - ( mallet A, chisels B, combination or joinery square C, planer D, adjustable bevel E and fine-toothed saw F. It is also advisable to have a scribe knife, ruler and pencil.)

Practice on medium-soft woods such as poplar and make pieces of equal width and thickness. With the acquisition of experience, you can try to make a connection on workpieces of different thicknesses. Temporarily mark the sides of the blanks (front, back, inside, outside, and side) and edges (top, bottom) to correctly orient the joint elements.

First saw out the thorns and use them to mark the dovetails. In some cases, it makes sense to start by cutting out the dovetails. We offer a detailed description of all the steps in this process.

Setting the angle on the bevel

There is a simple way to determine the angle for making the joint correctly. Place a square on the straight edge of the trimmed bezel and draw a line about 250 mm long in the middle at a 90 ° angle to the edge (picture).

Place marks on this line at a distance of 1 50 and 200 mm from the edge. Now mark the edge 25 mm to the right and left of the line. Connect the marks "25" with the marks "150" and "200" with lines. Place the bevel over the smaller triangle for softwood and over the larger triangle for hardwood, as shown in the photo.

Traditionally, the angle used in softwood dovetail joints is steeper than the angle for hardwoods because softwoods are more prone to collapse and displacement when loaded. But the difference is small: 81 ° (1: b ratio) - for soft rocks versus 83 ° (1: 8 ratio) - for hard rocks.

Spike markings

Spikes always start at the edges of the part and are marked on the ends, while dovetails are marked on the face. Determine the number and placement of the spikes as you wish. For even distribution, calculate how many spikes should be made between the outermost half-spikes.

Divide the distance between the outermost half-tenons by this number and then mark the centers of the tenons on the inside of the end of the workpiece at regular intervals. Determine the width of the narrow edge of the tenons and mark the edge of the workpiece. Avoid making cleats with narrow edge widths less than 6 mm - this space will not be enough for further work with "dovetails".

Using a marking gage with a fixed width, which is 0.4 mm more than the thickness of the workpieces, draw a line on both faces and edges of the workpieces from the side of the ends, where the spikes and later dovetails will be made.

Both faces of the joint will be ground after assembly. Using a mala with a marker knife, mark the spikes on the ends of the workpiece, as shown in the photo on the left.

Using a square, draw straight lines from the ends of the marking lines at the end to the lines previously drawn with a thickness gauge, as shown in the photo on the right. Shade the areas to be removed.

Sawing thorns

Using a thin-blade saw (such as a Japanese-style hacksaw), cut along the scribed lines to the lines marked with a thickness gauge on both sides. Hold the saw blade perpendicular to the butt end and cut slowly to avoid wood grain pulling the cut to the side. A small square set close to the canvas will help maintain the 90 ° angle until experience allows you to do without it.

Remove excess material with a chisel

With the widest chisel that fits between the adjacent spikes in the place of their closest approach, make shallow boundary cuts along the line drawn by the thickness gauge, as shown in the upper left photo. Do not go too deep into the wood - 3 mm is enough for a start. Your goal is a straight, straight line.

Carefully remove excess material by using light blows with a mallet, guiding the chisel from the end side. Repeat these operations until you have cut the material to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece. Creating a small V-shaped notch will make it easier to chip away excess wood when removing wood between the tenons. Turn the workpiece over, fix it with a clamp and continue working on the other side.

Cleaning the cutouts between the spikes

Use a chisel to clean the areas between the thorns. To simplify the assembly of the connection, make a small indentation from the end in the cutouts between the pins, as shown in the photo. The thorns are now ready. Do not subject them to any processing until you have made the "dovetails"

Dovetail markings

The finished spikes will serve as a template for marking the dovetails. Holding the front piece vertically on the inside of the side board, at its end, align the wider part of the spikes with the line drawn by the thickness gauge on the second board.

Mark out the dovetails with a knife. When the markings are clearly visible, use a square and a knife to draw lines of cuts at the ends perpendicular to the face. If necessary, shade the areas to be removed.

Saw out the dovetails carefully

Make cuts at an angle. Unlike other workpieces, where the cuts usually go along the marking line, in this case you need to saw next to it, creating a margin for the possibility of an accurate adjustment of the connection.

Saw and trim the shoulders

When starting to cut with an allowance, cut out the shoulders at the edges of the joint. Then clean this area with a chisel until it matches the marking lines.

Removing material between dovetails

This operation is similar to stripping the cleats, except that you need to trim the remaining allowance closer to the marking line for a precise fit. We do not recommend making spikes that are too narrow: they do not leave room for chisel work between the “dovetails”.

Fitting the connection

Working slowly and accurately, remove the excess with the chisel almost to the scoring line left by the knife. Make trial attempts to assemble the connection while you work.

Cut off the thinnest layer of material from the dovetails with each fit, until the connection is collected with light blows from the mallet. Do not modify the spikes.

It can take a while to gain experience, but you will notice the difference between a compound to admire and one to be patched up.

Based on materials from the magazine "Wood-Master"

Dovetail joints in the lock can be made in a variety of ways. Some artists are attracted by the decorativeness of the repeating pattern. Execution of all varieties of "Dovetail" is an interesting task for any woodworker

Through dovetail

The Dovetail Thru is a traditional joint for joining the ends of solid wood planks. It is widely used in drawer designs and furniture making. Electric milling machines and special devices are used for the machine-made manufacture of such connections.

Spike markings

Adjust the thicknessing tool to the thickness of the wood.

Draw a line of tenon shoulders (“TAILS”) around the end of the part with tenons on all of its edges and on the sides of the part with slots. Where the risks from the planer can further spoil the appearance of the finished product, use a sharpened pencil and square.

Then mark out the nests (or partitions between them). The size and quantity may vary depending on the width of the planks and the type of wood (soft varieties require larger and less spaced spikes than hard woods). The appearance of the finished connection can be no less varied. Roughly, to give the product a good appearance, the spikes should be of the same size and evenly spaced, but wider than the partitions between the nests.

Start by drawing a line with a pencil across the end of the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from each edge, then divide and mark the distance between them into an even number of equal parts. Set aside 3 mm on each side of the marks and draw lines across the end.

Mark out the slope of the spikes on the face side with a bead or dovetail stencil. Mark the excess to avoid confusion later.

Carving thorns

Set the workpiece so that one side of each cleat is vertical. Using a reward, cut one of the side vertical edges of each spike. Stay close to the yaw line and take care not to file past the shoulder line.

After reinstalling the workpiece in a vise, cut out the other side edges of the tenons. Place the part horizontally in a vise and cut off the lateral release along the line of the shoulders. Remove the main excess wood between the spikes with an openwork saw.

Cut off the remainder with a chisel or beveled chisel, working from both sides to the middle to the shoulder line.

Nest marking

Rub the end of the prepared workpiece with chalk and set it vertically in a vice. Lay the cut-out tenon piece in place, making sure the faces of the joint pieces match. Carefully line up the edges and shoulder line of the cleats on the chalk end and mark out the shape of the cleats with a scribe or knife, then continue lines to the shoulders on each side of the slotted workpiece. Use a pencil to mark the excess.

Carving nests

Place the workpiece vertically in a vise. Saw to the shoulder line at the corners marked with the thorns. Make a cut in the waste part so that it just touches the marking line. Remove the main part of the waste between the nest partitions with an openwork saw, cut the remainder evenly to the shoulder line with a chisel or chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Work from both sides to the center. Clean the corners by keeping the cutter at the corner of the inner edges of the sockets.

Assembling the connection

Dovetail joints are made very precisely and only need to be fully assembled once. To check the fit of the parts, assemble the product in parts dry (without glue) and carefully cut off the excess in too tight places. Clean the inside of the parts before gluing.

Apply glue to both halves of the joint and use a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the surface of the piece, bond the pieces tightly. If you are working with a wide joint, tap the entire width to keep the pieces together evenly. Remove excess adhesive before it hardens. When the glue is dry, use a jointer to work from the edges to the middle to avoid chipping off the end layers.

Dovetail corners

The angle of the dovetail should be neither too steep nor too sloping. Too much dovetail slope produces weak short filaments at the corners, while insufficient slope can reduce the bond strength of the joint. On a wooden trim, make a bevel mark and set a bevel solution along it, or use a stencil or template. For hardwoods, the slope should be 1/8, and for softwoods, it should be made equal to 1/6.

Decorative pass-through dovetail

Graceful and neatly made through joints are pleasing to the eye and are often used in furniture structures. Decorative options are used to highlight this property and showcase the art of the master.

The joint design complies with the basic principles of the proportion and imbalance of the joint elements. The example shown here uses thinner baffles than conventional baffles.

Spike markings

Along the entire perimeter of the end of the workpiece with spikes, draw a line marking the shoulders with a pencil or very lightly with a thicknesser.

Continue the lines to the end and mark the excess.

Carving thorns

Use a tenon and openwork saw to cut back in the same way as for conventional dovetail through joints. Clean up with a beveled chisel or chisel, working from end to center.

Nest marking

Chalk the end of the part with the slots. With a solution of a cutting planer equal to the length (height) of the small tenons, mark the line of the thickness of the small partitions between the nests on the end face. Mark the partitions along the spiked part using the tip of a saw or scribe. Continue lines to the shoulder line on each side and mark the excess.

Carving nests

Remove the bulk of the waste with a tenon and openwork saw and trim the shoulders with a chisel or chisel. To cut small dividers to size, press the workpiece onto a flat board against a workbench or work table.

Cut across the grain next to the shoulder line. Mark out the ends of the spikes. Carefully trim off the excess, working along the grain. Then repeat the operation and stop at the line marking the shoulders (thickness gauge) and the line of thickness. Apply glue and assemble the joint as you would a regular dovetail thru-lock.

Bevelled dovetail through

Sometimes a dovetail through-lock is combined with a beveled corner joint so that a chamfer with a shaped profile can be performed on the edge.

The depth of the beveled part depends on the profile of the chamfer.

Spike markings

Use a thickness gauge to mark the shoulder line on both sides and the bottom edge of the spiked part. Draw a bevel line at the top edge. Measure from the top of the end face the depth required for the chamfer. At the mark, draw a line across the butt and around to the shoulder line. Make a faint mark with a pencil 6 mm from the first mark and 6 mm above the bottom edge. Distribute the required number of pins between these marks. Mark the excess.

Carving thorns

Saw through the sides of the spikes and along the line of the chamfer depth and remove the retreat with an openwork saw. Smooth back with a chisel or beveled chisel. Leave the excess in the bevel for now.

Nest marking

Use a thickness gauge to paint a light line of shoulders on both sides of the socket part. Mark a bevel line at the top edge. Rub the butt end with chalk and mark the nests (partitions) and the bevelling off the workpiece with spikes. Draw a line of spikes on the butt end and on the sides to the shoulder line, and only on the inside to the bevelling line. Mark the excess.

Through connection with a rebate in the dovetail lock

Making a box with a dovetail joint having a bottom inserted into a rebate (recess) along the lower edge of the walls requires some modification of this gusset to avoid gaps in the lower corners. This is achieved by shifting the position of the stud shoulder to close the gap.

Spike markings

Using a thickness gauge, mark the shoulder line on the sides and across the top edge. Also, use a reim to draw a rebate depth line along the inner edge, across the butt end and on the front side to the shoulder line. Mark the inside of the slotted part with the same thicknessing tool setting.

Reinstall the thickness gauge if necessary and mark the rebate width on the edges of both parts of the joint. Make one pencil mark on the spiked workpiece 6 mm below the planned fold depth and another 6 mm from the opposite edge. Mark the position of the spikes between these marks. Draw a line across the intended chamfer edge on the spiked part to match the fold on the socket part, and mark the offset.

Nest marking

Use a thickness gauge to draw a line of shoulders on both sides of the slotted part. Chalk the butt and mark the nests on the spiked part using a scriber or sharpened pencil. Mark the excess.

Bevelled dovetail joint

The design of such a "dovetail" is completely hidden by the bevel and is often referred to as a dovetail lock or a secret lock. This connection is used for delicate work and requires careful and careful execution. The parts to be joined must be of the same thickness and cut to length. Spikes can only be marked by the nests, which are cut first. Marking and cutting grooves Set the thicknessing tool to the thickness of the workpiece and mark a line of shoulders across the inside, working from the butt end.

Using a scribe and bevel, mark a bevel at each edge between the planer line and the outside corner. Set the thickness gauge to the width of the overlap and mark the fold.

Mark the butt from the outside and the fold depth line from the butt. Saw off the excess fold and smooth the surface with a shoulder plane. Start marking the nests by drawing a line (parallel to each edge) from the shoulder line to the overlap with a thicknesser. The distance should not exceed 6 mm from the edge.

Mark the width and position of the sockets at the end between the lines drawn by the thickness gauge. Make a cardboard dovetail stencil and press it against the side of the overlap so it does not stray from the correct position. Continue marking to the shoulder line and mark the excess with a chisel or chisel.

The saw may cut slightly into the overlap. Saw off the excess bevel. Set the workpiece vertically and use a chisel or chisel to cut off the bulk of the waste from the overlap bevel.

Use a shoulder plane to trim the bevel. Use a beveled stop to help guide the planer in the right direction.

Marking and cutting

Follow the recommendations for making a part with slots up to and including cutting the fold. Place the spiked part on a workbench with the inside facing up. Place the part with the slots vertically so that the inside of the part is flush with the marking line of the planer. Use a scribe to mark the nests (with a partition). Continue the lines to the butt and mark the excess.

Cut off excess bevel. Then saw through the sides of the cleats and hack away the space between the cleats and between the outer cleats and the shoulders of the bevel. Finally, trim and stitch the overlap bevel like a nest piece. Test the assembly before gluing.

Inclined dovetail lock

This connection is used to make rigid connections. This is not an easy task, as it is difficult to visualize, difficult to mark, and all the edges of the parts are at an angle, which requires careful cutting. The workpieces must be of the same thickness and are oversized in length and width. It is necessary to make a drawing in projections, according to which to calculate the dimensions of the blanks before marking the connection.

Executing a drawing

Start with a side view of the finished frame connection. Indicate the thickness of the wood, and the dotted line - the original dimensions of the workpiece. Draw the vertical projection (plan) under the side. Then project the side view onto a horizontal plane.

Marking and cutting ends

Cut the workpieces to length and width as shown by the dotted lines in the side view. Place the bevel at an angle of inclination X. Mark this angle on the inside, working from the corner of the joint. Saw off the ends along this bend. Place the second bevel at corner U. Mark it on the edges, measuring from the outside.

Connect the marks on the edge to form a guide line for cutting off the bevel of the edge. In fact, the tilt should be checked perpendicular to the edge during the planing process to get the true tilt angle. With the workpiece in a vise so that the end is in a horizontal position, carefully plan the end bevel on each workpiece.

Marking and Cutting Connection Elements

Mark the spikes on the face of the spiked part. First measure the thickness of the material on both sides of both workpieces, measuring the size along the beveled ends. Connect the lines at each edge of the spiked part. With a small mark attached to the end corner X, mark a line from the inner bottom corner along the edge of the spiked part.

Make marks 6 mm below the top edge and 6 mm above the bottom. Calculate and mark the shape and position of the spikes between these marks. Then, with a cardboard stencil on the square, mark the spikes on the outside.

Mark the slope of the tenon ends at the angled end of the tenon part. Use a bevel set at corner X. Hold the bead block so that it is parallel to the end. Using a square and cardboard dovetail stencil, mark the spikes on the inside. Mark the excess. Carefully cut the tenons exactly according to the marked corners. Place the workpiece in a vise at an angle to cut vertically.

On the cut out spikes, mark the end of the part with the sockets. Rub the end face with chalk so that the lines from the scribe are more visible. Place the spiked part on the end so that the edges and the inner shoulders match, and draw around the spikes. Using a mallet at an X corner, draw parallel lines from each spike to the line of the shoulders. Mark the excess, then use a saw and chisel or chisel to carefully remove it according to the markings.

It is possible to stitch the bevel on long edges both before and after gluing. In both cases, use a small piece set at an X angle to check. Tilted sides can be difficult to bond when gluing. If you hammer the joint during assembly to fit the elements into place, use a piece of wood as a spacer to protect the parts from damage.