How to make a corner bath with your own hands. Screen for a bathtub made of plastic panels: do it yourself

Installing a screen under the bath is a great way to complement the room and hide the plumbing communications. And to save money and perfectly fit the screen into the interior of the bathroom, do it yourself!

How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen?

Even in the most stylish and tidy bathroom, a bathtub installed without a screen does not look very elegant. It is worth thinking about how to decorate the space under it, while maintaining functionality and without blocking access to plumbing communications.

The most versatile solution can be the construction of a screen under the bath. And if you want a unique interior detail, ditch the finished screen and make it yourself.

The choice of material for the construction of the screen

The most popular and easily manufactured screens are plastic. They are durable, not afraid of dampness. You can make a screen of multi-colored plastic to match the interior or cover it with a special film.

When creating a screen for a bath, it is important to carefully calculate and think over everything. Therefore, the first thing to do is choose.

The second step will be to familiarize yourself with the cost of laying tiles in the bathroom. This is necessary in order to decide whether to start work on your own. ...

The second most popular is a screen made of MDF panels.

In this case, it is required to take into account that MDF is afraid of dampness, and therefore, before installation, it is imperative to process the panel special composition.

Plasterboard screens are usually installed by those who are not going to use the space under the bathroom as storage.

Such a screen must be provided with a door in order to gain access to plumbing equipment if necessary.

Supporting frame

Almost every screen requires the construction of a frame to which the panels will be attached. It can be made from wooden or aluminum profiles with different parameters -25 × 25, 30 × 30, 40 × 40.

Before starting work, be sure to mark the walls and floor in order to accurately mark the lines along which the screen will be installed. To strengthen the frame, it is necessary to install transverse profiles.

They will give rigidity to the entire structure. After that, the profiles are joined together and attached to the walls and floor of the bathroom.

Laying brick screen

One of the very stylish and original options is a brick screen with subsequent finishing tiles or decorative plaster... It's pretty easy to do it yourself.

Before starting work, you will also need to mark the future wall of the screen so that its edge is flush with the edge of the bath.

On the opposite wall of the bathroom, you also need to make vertical markings, which will be a guideline when laying bricks. It is recommended to lay 1/2 or 1/4 brick on cement-sand mortar.

You can make a screen with a niche for the legs. A door for access to the drain and plumbing communications must be provided!

You can buy it in a store or make it yourself from a plastic panel or other available materials.

Popular screen types

From plastic lining

This is the cheapest and easiest screen to manufacture and install. Plastic does not require additional finishing, so you can immediately use the bathroom, and if necessary, such a structure can be easily disassembled, giving access to the interior space.

Before starting the installation, you need to stock up on everything you need: in addition to the panels, you will also need a starting profile, reinforced around the perimeter of the screen.

So that the plastic does not bend over time and does not lose its shape, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the frame with a profile in the middle of the structure.

The lower part of the profile is glued to the floor with a sealant.

Lining strips are cut with a construction knife and inserted into the starting profile. Where the door is planned, a hole must be cut in advance.

Video: Decorative screen

Plasterboard sheathing

For installation, a special drywall is required for rooms with high humidity to prevent it from getting wet and rotting.

The drywall option is good because it can be designed in the form of a niche with shelves, so that in small room in a typical bathroom, it will successfully replace a wardrobe or chest of drawers.

It consists of sheets of plasterboard, fixed on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden bars. You can install the frame on one side of the bathtub or on both sides at once - it all depends on how the bathtub is located.

By the way, the amount of necessary materials depends on this.

For the manufacture of the screen you will need: drywall, putty, drywall profile, sealants and impregnations, paint.

Work begins with marking the future frame. After that, the frame is assembled from the profile, depending on the shape of the screen, and installed under the bathroom using a drill and screwdriver.

First, the smaller part of the structure is attached, then the larger one, and they are fastened together.

A technological hole is required. After fixing the sheets, the surface is treated with a sealant, putty and covered with a primer.

After all layers have dried, you can proceed to finishing works.

From ceramic tiles

Finishing ceramic tiles possible for plasterboard, MDF or masonry screens. A putty is applied to a thoroughly primed surface, after drying it is thoroughly rubbed sandpaper and primed again.

The tiles are laid in the same way as usual, using special glue and crosses for joints and grouting. The advantages of such a screen are its decorative effect and durability.

You can pick up a completely unique color combination and decorate the bathroom in any style. You can even make sliding doors, but this will be somewhat more complicated and costly.

MDF paneling

MDF boards are afraid of moisture, so it is necessary to impregnate them with special sealants even before starting installation. After that, they are covered with a primer and fixed to the frame in the same way as drywall sheets.

To further protect the screen from moisture, you need to make special ventilation holes away from the service door.

Usually for this purpose, a small cut is made, 5-10 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. So that it does not catch the eye and does not break general view, it can be closed with a decorative plastic grate... The MDF screen trim can be made of tiles or plastic.

For acrylic bath

Acrylic bathtubs are more fragile than cast iron ones and require special care when installing the screen. The structure itself is usually made of PVC panels in the usual way, just like for a cast iron bath.

Before starting the installation, you need to mark the side of the bathtub, noting the places where the screen will be fixed.

After that, the upper part is aligned with the side of the bath and the same marks are applied to it, making sure that they coincide with the marks on the side.

The screen is attached to the bathtub using mounting pins and self-tapping screws.

To make the entry points of the screws invisible, it is recommended to close them with special plugs to match the bath. It is also possible to build a brick screen, but in this case you must first build it, and then install a bath on it.

Before proceeding with the construction of the construction of the screen under the bath, it is important to purchase a bath and, of course, a toilet. An excellent option for a combined bathroom -.

If you have a small bathroom at your disposal, do not be upset, we will help you choose the design of a small bathroom in Khrushchev, which you can learn more about.

PVC Panel Screen

For its manufacture, you will need standard plastic panels, guide profiles - aluminum or plastic, square tube section 10 × 10 mm and self-tapping screws.

The first stage of work will be the fabrication of a frame from two parallel tubes connected across the same tube. The vertical posts are positioned depending on the size of the screen.

After painting, guides are installed on the pipes, one of them is attached to the lower frame, the other to the upper one. Panels must be carefully cut into pieces required size and insert into the grooves of the guides.

Screen shape

The screen under the bath, due to the peculiarities of the room and the shape of the bath itself, is most often rectangular in shape. The only exceptions are screens for a corner bath, a curved design is provided here.

Depending on the material of manufacture, it may have some features and improvements.

For example, brick or plasterboard can have special niches for the legs so that they do not rest against a blank wall.

The shape of such a niche can be straight or inclined. By the way of opening the screens can be sliding or hinged.

The second option is preferable, since it does not require additional space for the door.

Video: Manufacturing technology

Sliding screen

The sliding screen is best made of PVC panels or plastic lining. These are the easiest materials to work with, and the screen is very durable.

For installation, you will need a special aluminum profile, from it guides for doors are made.

First of all, a frame is mounted on which guides are installed, equal in length to the bath itself or the distance between the walls of the room.

The doors are fixed in the frame, and they must be placed on the sides of the screen itself in the first profile groove. The central part is most often made stationary and located in the middle groove.

The screen is attached to the bath already assembled with spacer bolts. Furniture handles are installed on movable doors.

For corner bath

When creating a screen under corner bath it should be taken into account that traditional materials, such as drywall, is not easy to bend on your own, and even more so to place it in a rigid frame.

The easiest way out is to make a plastic screen, it bends well, is not affected by moisture and is relatively inexpensive. In addition, you can pick up plastic sheets in a variety of shades.

Even insignificant, at first glance, details in the interior will help to make the appearance of any room complete and unique. And the same little things can completely ruin our experience. DIY sliding screen under the bathtub – a useful thing that can solve many small problems that spoil the mood.

Bath screen materials

1. Made of MDF
2. PVC panels
3. Acrylic
4. Plexiglass
5. Mirrored
6. With ceramic tiles in the base
7. From tongue-and-groove slabs
8. From drywall.

Choosing a screen for a bath

Screen construction

For these designs, it also varies. Products are available in standard length: 1.5 or 1.7 meters. The height indicator is in the range of 560, 550, 506 millimeters. The product contains special legs that allow you to adjust this characteristic.

1. End screens - cover the corresponding part in the bathroom.
2. Varieties where end frames are missing.
3. Universal models. The aluminum frame contains plastic panels. The length of the frame itself can be reduced if the customers have such a desire. Thanks to this, the easier installation of the structure with your own hands becomes easier where the sewer pipes pass.
4. Normal view. Plastic panels are enclosed inside the frame, performers try to adhere to certain sizes.

About MDF structures

Most often, modern buyers make a choice in favor of plastic, but this does not mean that the choice is limited only to them. One of the most common materials is MDF board, which can resist even moisture in large quantities.

The material, in essence, is a type of fiberboard with average density. It is created using pressing technology, when high temperature and pressure are maintained.

Compared to plastic, these models are more expensive. But on the other hand, the appearance can also be called more massive, impressive. It is best to choose the color and material so that they match the decor that is already present in the room.

Screens made of plastic and MDF do not move apart by the same mechanisms. Products from MDF simply open inward, which is very reminiscent of ordinary furniture facades.

Differs in MDF and higher resistance to mechanical loads.

Installing a wooden screen - expensive and fashionable

In what sizes are the designs available?

• 540 mm in height, 1700 mm in length
• 540+ 1600 mm
• 540+ 1500 mm.

All models have feet, thanks to which the height can be adjusted up to 620 mm.

There are also several color options available.

• Vanilla
• Olive
• White
• Wenge

And these are just a few of the options for today's buyers.

Should I take an acrylic screen?

These are models that are only suitable for rooms decorated in a certain style and with a certain appearance.

Such products are most often produced immediately complete with the bathrooms themselves.

For each model, a truly unique piece of jewelry is developed with a certain set of characteristics.

How can you do everything yourself?

From the very beginning, we need to understand the requirements that any sliding screen under the bathtub must meet.

1. The bath itself should not have any support on this part. The product cannot play the role of a supporting structure.
2. Near the screen, you will definitely need to take care of the high-quality sealing of the floor.
3. There must be a technical opening, allowing, if necessary, to get access to all communications. To hide this part, it is allowed to use small doors or plugs.

We buy an acrylic screen complete with a bathroom

We work with bricks

It must be laid between the walls where the bath itself is located. The main thing is to withstand the thickness, it should be equal to half the brick. It is by this amount that all subsequent rows must be shifted. It remains only to alter everything depending on the specified parameters.

It is important to make a special window where the drain will take place. In the future, just a door is attached there. small size... The bathtub should not even be supported by brick screens, this is one of the most important rules... A small gap will need to be created between the last row of bricks and the bathroom itself. Usually it is no more than 1-2 millimeters, then it is covered polyurethane foam... After that, the brickwork is sheathed.

What about drywall?

One of the most successful decisions... A bar made of wood or a profile made of metal are perfect for forming the main frame. True, if the choice is made in favor of wood, it will be necessary to process the material with the help of soil. Otherwise, it will be impossible to completely protect against mold and rot.

The frame requires a small deepening, this should be taken into account separately when creating it with your own hands. The face material will then be on top of the skin. As for the thickness, it should be the same as that of this future cladding. By this amount, it is necessary to deepen the entire structure later. The correction will help to carry out the plumb line.

We mount a drywall screen

What other work can you do?

The UD profile is fixed along the outlined line. To prevent water from getting under the bathtub, you must lower part treat structures with sealant.

CD is a profile that, in any case, must maintain a vertical position. Anchoring takes place on the support profile. A certain distance must be left between them, at least 600 millimeters. Where there will be a technological hole, it is worth installing additional racks. It is better to provide a protrusion for the legs in the center.

Installation of the profile is carried out in the shape of the letter P. It must be deepened under the bath, only 10 centimeters.

A moisture-resistant drywall is best suited for finishing screen cladding. The main thing is to observe the width and height of the structure, to make a small margin of 2 cm.

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening along the perimeter and in the center of the profile, while it is important to observe a step of 15 cm. It is important to watch the self-tapping screws, if handled carelessly, they can damage the bath. It is recommended to step back 1 cm from the edge and the floor, then the drywall will not swell. This material is waterproof, but constant contact moisture can be dangerous for him.

Tiles and films can be used as a primer finished surface... This is one of the last stages of work. Decorative plaster is also suitable, many prefer washing wallpaper.

Are there other options available?

Working with drywall partitions is very similar to what can and should be done with OSB, MDF. The only difference is that in the latter case, an additional window is needed inside the screen, which will be responsible for ventilation. The main thing is that it is located on the opposite side from the place where the technical hole will be located.

Length - within 5-10 centimeters, width - about 2-3. A plastic grill will help cover everything. Both sides need to cover the sheets MDF primer... And this must be done before the final fixing on the frame.

What installation features are worth knowing about?

The screen holder can be easily mounted directly on the sides of the bathtub if it is acrylic. But this is unacceptable if you need to do everything under a cast iron bath. Otherwise, the enamel surface will deteriorate.

The complexity of installation usually depends on how complex the screen itself is. Installation of the guide profile in the shape of the letter W - mandatory requirement if you choose a product with sliding doors. After that, you need to cut out the details, which will be the doors in the future. In this case, one door must be larger than the other. Only then are they installed in the guide profile.

Mount for the screen under cast iron bath DO NOT mount on the sides of the bath itself

What about drywall construction?

The first step is to assemble a frame that matches the dimensions we need. You cannot do without wooden bars 40 by 40 millimeters, screws and metal corners.

1. The first important step becomes markup. A plumb line is used to apply to the surface the right amount points. They are then connected into single lines, usually extending to the floor from the corners of the tub. You should get two such lines.
2. It is necessary to step back 2.5 cm from each of the drawn lines. And draw one more parallel to the previous ones. But they will move to the inside of the bath. Points for drawing lines on the floor are marked in about the same way used. We get 4 lines.
3. The plumb line must be applied to outer corner bathtub, which is not adjacent to them. After that, another point is placed on the floor. This is the top of a square whose side is 2.5 centimeters. It is turned inside the bath.
4. Several lines will need to be drawn from the corner of the square facing the bath. They are connected to the lines that were described in paragraph two.

• For the vertical sides of the square, you will need four of them. The length will be equal to the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the bath rim.
• On the shorter side of the frame, you need two tubs.
• Finally, you need two pieces on one more long side.
• Several slats in a vertical plane will be needed if the bathtub has a long length.

After that, finally, you can move on to the framework itself.

1. Four short bars must be connected together using metal corners. Do-it-yourself fastening requires screws. Parts with a horizontal position will need to be placed between the vertical rails. Reverse order no action allowed.
2. You need to drill two holes in the rail that is attached to the wall
3. The frame should be on the wall, on the small side of the tub. Depending on the material from which the frame is made, a suitable fastener is selected.
4. The long frame is mounted in the same way. It is attached to the second wall.
5. If from the very beginning additional vertical slats were prepared, then first they are attached to the frame, and then you can go further.
6. To connect both structures, screws will be needed. The fabrication of the frame can be considered complete.

Installing a curved frame

The general principle is roughly the same as described above. But it does not do without its own nuances.

• Profiles for gypsum cardboard - the basis for the manufacture of the frame; first you need to make cuts, only then give the necessary shape;
• There should be 2 such curvilinear profiles in total. They are fixed with ordinary self-tapping screws... Next, you can go to the vertical slats, they will strengthen the frame.
• He himself should be at a certain depression from the side.
• Only after installing the frame does the installation of the screen itself begin with your own hands.

A little about sliding and removable options

Most often, acrylic bathtubs are equipped with removable screens. The latter are sometimes made of the same material, are included, in finished form... Such products are distinguished by their attractive appearance, ideally suited to the baths themselves. But on the other hand, they do not allow full use of all free space.

Choosing a plastic sliding bath screen

The design with external open shelves is one of the varieties of such a model. Plastic is used for its manufacture; this is a convenient and practical option.

The material is also used in the production of finished structures. You can always choose an option that will have an end insert. The main thing is to purchase a model that exactly and accurately matches the size of the bath. An exact fit in place will have to be done anyway.

For deaf structures, brick will be the best material. In the future, it is easy for him to make a cladding. But in any case, it is important to provide for the presence of a technological opening so that there is always access to the main technological communications. The main thing is that even this detail does not stand out against the general background, it fits into the existing interior. Other materials can be used, but this design is often quite complex.

If you installed a bathtub, you probably already thought about how to hide all the communications underneath. One of possible options- put the screen on. As a rule, this design is only intended to improve the aesthetics of the bathroom. Modern models bathtubs are often supplied with screens. But, if you purchased a bathtub without such a complete set, do not despair. You can always make the screen yourself.

Not everyone likes to cover their bathtub with various trims. An easy way to solve this problem is to purchase a bathtub with beautiful legs and treated, presentable sides. But it also happens that it is not possible to hide the sewer and water supply structures.

Acrylic bathtubs usually come with ready-made screens that cover the space under them to a minimum. Design features Such baths differ from their cast iron / steel counterparts in that they do not form large voids under them.

The space under the bathroom can also be used more rationally by building a screen under it with shelves or sliding doors. So, you can store detergents under the bathroom, for example.

Among other things, such claddings help to improve the sanitary conditions in the bathroom. Thanks to them, moisture does not accumulate on the floor areas under the bathroom, which provokes the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Modern design developments provide an opportunity to decorate the bath in an original and beautiful way. With their help, you can create simulations, for example, underwater world or an aquarium.

In a wet bathroom environment, it is important to use materials that are moisture resistant. There are plenty of them on the market today. Among this set are:

• brick;
• MDF / OSB;
• plastic;
• installation of a ready-made kit consisting of a frame and sliding doors.

After installation, all materials, except for plastic and the finished screen kit, must be finished with, for example, plaster, tiles, wallpaper, etc.

Basic material requirements:

1. There should be a revision opening to the main sewerage and water supply units, closed with a door / plug.
2. The floor underneath the bathroom should be hermetically sealed from the rest of the bathroom. This is the only way to avoid the formation of dampness, and as a result of fungi and mold under the bathroom.
3. The bathtub should not lean against the screen as it is a non-supporting structure.
4. So that the screen does not interfere with the legs in it, you need to organize a notch made at a slope.

If you have enough free space under the bathtub, make a screen with drawer or a small cabinet in which you can store detergents and household chemicals.

Screens are:

• deaf;
• with a niche for legs;
• with sliding doors;
• with an inspection door for troubleshooting plumbing problems.

When choosing a screen, the features of the design of the room, the personal preferences of the owner of the house / apartment, and financial capabilities are taken into account.

Plasterboard does not load the floor, unlike heavy brickwork. It's easy to handle. A drywall construction can last from 20 to 25 years. If necessary, the plasterboard screen can be repaired by repairing the damage with putty or by replacing a whole fragment.

For these purposes, you need to use moisture resistant drywall... Due to its moderate vapor permeability, the drywall screen maintains an optimal level of humidity.

Works with gypsum plasterboard do not require any special equipment. Everything you need is usually included home set tools.

In the process of calculating the structure, the availability of access to plumbing units should be taken into account. The revision opening can be closed with a plastic flap. To make the use of the bathtub more comfortable, the lower part of the screen must be shifted under the bathtub by 10–12 cm. The screen is not supporting structure as mentioned above, so it does not have to support the weight of the bath. The only thing is that if the design provides shelves or cabinets, then the frame must withstand their weight along with the filling.

First you need to install supporting frame... The most affordable option is a system assembled from a mounting bar, pre-treated with a preservative. Installation of a metal profile will cost you more, however, given its high operational properties, the costs justify the investment.

Whichever way you decide to install the gypsum screen, dowel fasteners will be used as the fastening. Giprok is fixed with self-tapping screws for metal.

On the wall that adjoins the side of the bathtub, draw the markings along which the side profile will be installed. If you are going to use tiles as cladding, then make an additional indent for this. It should be equal to the total thickness of the tile and panel. Mark the length of the bottom of the screen on the floor. For accurate markings, use a plumb line or a building level.

The foot recesses are usually formed in the center of the bath at the bottom of the screen. The middle floor profile you need to make a U-shaped configuration. To do this, you need to install vertical posts with an appropriate slope.

Before installing the plasterboard, install the profile in accordance with the markings. The first step is to secure the UD profile. In this case, put its lower part on moisture resistant sealant... Attach the vertical CD profile to the support profile at the same distance of 60 cm. Install additional stands where the inspection door will be installed.

To cut moisture-resistant plasterboard, use hand saw with small teeth. So, you will succeed clean cut... When manufacturing the screen, it is important to provide a distance from the bath rim equal to 10 mm deep. Thus, contact of the screen with water will be excluded.

If the wall thickness of the frame is 0.55 mm, then standard metal screws must be used to secure the drywall. If the wall thickness of the profile is 0.8 mm, then it is better to use fasteners with a drill bit.

Drywall can be finished with tiles, decorative plaster, film decor or moisture-resistant wallpaper.

Before making the frame, the profile must be given a semicircular shape. To do this, you need to make cuts on the metal profile and bend it. Make two of these arcs. Secure them with self-tapping screws. Then install vertical slats that will stiffen the frame.

The frame should be installed at a certain recess from the side of the bathtub: thickness of plasterboard + thickness of tiles + thickness of glue.

To buy drywall the desired shape, for example, has become arched, it needs to be slightly moistened and gradually bent. The tiles must be laid on elastic glue, aligning the distance between the plates with crosses during the laying process.

The principle of making the frame is indistinguishable from its counterpart, provided for the installation of plasterboard. The only excellent thing is the need to install additional ventilation slots located on the opposite side of the revision door. This should be a small slot covered by a plastic grill. Another option is to make neat round holes in random order.

The space under the bathroom can be closed with a tiled brick wall. Anyone who knows how to handle a household tool is capable of handling masonry. Laying should be done in ¼ or ½ bricks on a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3.

Before laying, you need to mark the position of the screen, taking into account the tiling. Ultimately, the side of the bathtub should be flush with the screen. Lower the plumb line along the edge of the bath, and then mark the line from which the thickness of the tile will be laid and masonry mortar inside the bath. In accordance with this guideline, you need to do brickwork... In addition, the vertical lines of the screen structure on opposite walls of the bathroom should be beaten off.

If the bricks do not fit entirely at the top of the screen, they will need to be adjusted in height and thickness.

If you want to make a structure with a leg niche in the masonry of the lower row (or several rows), then you will have to leave an opening in the masonry, overlapping with steel strips up to 6 mm thick. This will ensure the retention of the bricks of the upper row.

The niche can be made with an inclined wall. However, it is technically more difficult to perform such laying. To do this, mark the bottom contour of the niche on the floor. Set the height and depth of the niche on paper. By connecting the dots, you have a pattern. On it you will need to cut off a brick for the side walls. You can cut the brick with a grinder or a diamond wheel. The masonry of the inclined wall is carried out with the binding of bricks with side walls and among themselves.

The upper row of bricks of the wall with a slope must be brought to the level of the horizontal row, and then cut off with a grinder. You should get a horizontal line. Further, the masonry process is similar to the previous method.

After laying the masonry, install the inspection door. To simplify the task, you can purchase one made of plastic at a hardware store. Another option is to make it yourself from a galvanized / aluminum profile, which can then be sheathed with plastic panels or other materials.

To make the frame, you will need to install a timber or a metal profile, and then install the starting profile, on which the plastic lining will be attached.

To make the design more rigid, you need to install the profiles in the middle of the screen. This should be taken into account, because the lining can deform and lose its shape from the smallest mechanical loads.

The lower profile must be screwed to the floor and sealed with a sealant. Plastic lining need to be cut into strips equal to the height of the screen. They need to be brought into the starting profile with the edges. So, gradually the entire screen will be filled with clapboard. A rectangle must be cut at the installation site of the inspection door. Then you can install the door, which can be purchased at the same store as the lining.

If you need additional shelves, you can install them under the bathroom. If you want to close them from prying eyes, install a sliding screen. It can be made so that the shelves open vertically.

Vertical structures are fixed on gas lifts or other fasteners used in furniture production.

If you have to choose one of the models of standard sliding screens and install it under the bathroom, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of the features of this plan's products. Standard length screens - 1.5 and 1.7 m. Versatile designs can be reduced in length. They come in height - 50.6 cm, 55 and 56 cm. The constructions are equipped with adjustable legs.

Simple option sliding screen- it finished structure which consists of an aluminum / plastic frame with two panels. More sophisticated models are additionally equipped with drawers with storage shelves detergents and household chemicals. Panels are made of glass or plexiglass.

If you need to install a screen under the bath in a small room, then a mirror structure can be installed to visualize the increase in space.

Video

Photo

Which will perform several functions at once. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made screen. However, if you are striving for individuality, then it is worth considering options for how to make a do-it-yourself bath screen. In this case, it will turn out to make the design of the bath based on your needs, and not templates.

The screen under the bathtub is a special safety fence behind which detergents and other important accessories can be hidden. Behind it, you can successfully disguise communications such as sewerage, water supply and heating pipes. That is, such a structure carries an aesthetic load.

Let's consider its positive aspects:

• Functionality. You can hide inventory, cosmetics, household chemicals and more from prying eyes.
• Practicality. Although plumbing and sewer pipes hidden, there is easy access to them, since there are inspection windows.
• Aesthetics. When decorating the interior of the bathroom, the screen under the bathtub will hide everything that spoils the appearance.
• Easy to install. If you buy a ready-made screen, it is very easy to assemble it. It is also quite capable of making a screen on your own.
• Profitability. Often, you can make a screen under the bath from the remnants of building materials. In this case, you do not need to buy anything at all, except for individual elements.
• Safety. If you have small children, it is important that household chemicals are hidden.

So, we can distinguish 3 main functions that the screen under the bathroom performs:

1. Protective.
2. Decorative.
3. Utilitarian.

Fortunately, today you can use a variety of construction material for the manufacture of screens for the bath. For example, it could be:

• plastic;
• drywall;
• brick;
• ceramic tiles and so on.

In addition, screens can have different types, namely deaf, with one door or with a special niche for legs and a sliding screen. Thanks to this choice, it is really possible to make the bathroom cladding beautiful and unusual.

Now consider a few original ideas on how to independently make a screen for a bath.

Due to the presence of a special coating, MDF panels are an excellent material for finishing work in the bathroom. They have a fairly high resistance to moisture. The structure of the panels is dense, and the panels themselves are qualitatively impregnated with a special compound that prevents the formation of mold and mildew. It is also worth noting that there is a wide variety of textures and colors available.

As for the manufacture of a screen for a bath, the basis is the assembly principle kitchen furniture... So, the manufacturing process is as follows:

• It is necessary to mount a frame from wooden blocks. To do this, fix the timber to the wall and floor with dowels.
• The bars are connected to each other by corners.
• Be sure to take into account the availability of access to plumbing units for their maintenance. Perhaps some part of the frame will be accessible for opening. To do this, you can install guides along which the doors will open.
• The finished frame is sheathed MDF plates... They must first be cut to size.

Design the frame itself so that when MDF installation the panels did not protrude beyond the bathtub. Otherwise, the finish will look ugly. Plus, splashes of water falling on the end of the panel will gradually destroy it. In this case, even no impregnation will help.

If you are a supporter of capital construction, then the bath screen can be made of brick. However, in this case, further cladding will be required. To begin with, place the bathtub in its "rightful" place. After that, under the bathroom along the perimeter, outline the location of the first row. In most cases, half-brick masonry is sufficient. Before starting masonry, you should immediately decide on what material the surface of the laid out wall will be faced with. If this is a tile, then the laying should not be carried out flush with the edge of the bath, but slightly deepened - exactly the thickness of the tile and glue.

In the place where the siphon will be installed, it is necessary to build a small window. It can be covered with doors later. They can be bought ready-made or made on their own by attaching them to awnings. When laying bricks, you should not lay the bathtub at the very top. Leave a gap of up to 2 cm between the last row of bricks and the bathroom itself. Then this seam is filled with polyurethane foam.

When the masonry is ready and the mortar is dry, you can start finishing work. Alternatively, it can be tiled with ceramic tiles. After laying it, the seams are rubbed with grout. The result is a durable and beautiful bathtub screen.

In terms of screen formation, drywall is the most suitable material. You can make a structure of any shape from it. Screen production begins with installation metal frame... Although for the frame you can use and wooden block, but given the high humidity of this room, it is better to use a metal profile.

When installing the frame, keep in mind that a layer of drywall will be fixed on top, as well as facing material, it could be a tile. Therefore, when installing a profile, be sure to take this thickness into account. Accordingly, the profile should be fixed with a slight indentation from the edge of the bath.

This is quite simple to do. Mark a line from the edge of the side of the bathtub on the floor. You can measure it with a level or plumb line. Also, this line can be marked on the wall to which the bath screen will adjoin. After drawing a line along the entire tub, step back from it by the thickness of drywall, glue and tile. On average, this distance can be equal to 23.5 mm.

After that, the UD profile is fixed along the marked line. The profile is pre-coated with sealant. This will completely eliminate the penetration of moisture under the bath. Now it's time to install the CD profile in increments of up to 600 mm. Where it is planned to manufacture a window, profiles are additionally mounted to secure the door. When the frame is completely ready, it should be sewn up with moisture-resistant drywall.

When choosing self-tapping screws, be sure to consider their length. If they are too long, then there is a risk that the self-tapping screw will be screwed into the acrylic bath.

When all the drywall is screwed in, it should be veneered. Ceramic tiles are ideal for this.

Scheme

On these diagrams, you can see the sequence for making a screen for a drywall bathtub:

If your bathtub has a non-standard rectangular shape, then the screen can also be made for an angular one. You can also use drywall for this. The frame is made of a metal profile. Cuts are made on it, and then any shape is given to it. In this case, 2 similar profiles should be made. To strengthen the frame, vertical profiles are necessarily mounted. Also, the frame is installed with a small recess from the edge of the bath rim. This will allow you to install the facing material (tiles) flush with the bathroom.

As for the drywall itself, when screwing it in, it is important to carefully give it curved shape... There are two options for how to do this. The first is to make cuts in the drywall with the same pitch and bend it carefully. Also upper layer cardboard can be wetted and placed at a slight angle to the wall. Gradually, under its mass, it will acquire the desired shape.

The first option is more practical if the bending angle is too large.

This type of screen also has its own distinctive features... For example, ready-made sliding products are on sale today. However, not in all cases they fit the size of the already purchased and installed bathtub. Moreover, for acrylic baths often included acrylic screens, which are exclusively suitable for a specific bath model. But in this case, the screen turns out to be deaf. Such products are not made sliding. Therefore, we suggest that you consider the option of manufacturing a sliding screen based on a ready-made structure.

To do this, you must have a guide along which the door will move. You will also need to cut the panel in two. One of them can be stationary, and the second is mobile. However, both parts can be mobile. In this case, the guide should have two lines for the doors to move. Thus, a frame is made, on which the guide should be fixed under the side of the bath and on the floor. A guide is attached to it and the doors are installed. Without fail, handles are attached to the door, for which it will be possible to move the door. In this case, it will turn out to make a sliding plastic screen.

To give the bath original view, then you can build a mirror screen. Its making is similar to the manufacturing process. plastic screen... Plastic or metal guides are used to move the sash. They have small rollers, thanks to which the smooth movement of the mirror screen will be carried out.

The material is fastened with special glass clamps. Pay attention to the quality of the fastening. It must be reliable. Additionally, the mirror can be glued to liquid nails. In this case, it will not disappear.

It is not recommended to use double-sided tape. The bathroom is very humid and often heat... This can negatively affect the tape, which simply ceases to perform its main functions and the mirror will fall off.

This type of screen has significant drawbacks. For example, water droplets will always remain on the surface of the mirror, which, after drying, form stains. Therefore, after each bath, the mirror screen must be wiped off.

As a screen, you can use fabric materials For example, it can be artificial leather, waterproof nylon material, membrane fabric, polyester material, etc.

How to fix such a screen? It's pretty simple. Using special glue, glue one side of the Velcro to the inside of the bath rim. If necessary, the edges of the curtain (screen) and the bottom must be sheathed on sewing machine... The other side of the Velcro is sewn to the top edge of the curtain. Then the curtain is attached to the bathtub with Velcro. This cheap option a screen under the bath, which is very important for a limited budget.

If you do not want to make the screen yourself, but decided to buy it, then pay attention to some of the nuances of the correct choice:

1. In the case when the bathroom is spacious, then almost any screen can be suitable.
2. Provided that the bathroom is small, for example, as in Khrushchev, the choice is limited. In this case better fit sliding door or removable and monolithic. As for the monolithic, it is ideal for a very narrow bathtub.
3. Sliding screen models are much more convenient when they are immediately equipped with shelves. In this case, it is possible to hide everything. necessary accessories for baths, household chemicals, etc.
4. If you have an acrylic bathtub, then in most cases the screens are included. If not, then immediately pick it up in the store so that it is completely suitable.
5. Pay attention to the quality of the pens. They should be made of a material that will not rust.
6. If the selected screen has legs in its design, then they must be adjustable. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install it under individual characteristics baths, especially when the floor is not completely level.
7. It is best when the hardware is made of metal. Plastic can quickly break.

So, from this article we learned with you how to make a screen under the bath with our own efforts. We saw different variants arrangement of this important element... If you bought a pre-made screen, then we also looked at how to install it correctly. In addition to this article, you can watch videos that illustrate some of the technologies. If you have your own experience or you know about other possible arrangement of the space under the bathroom, then write about your experience and ideas at the end of this article.

Video

In the provided video, you can clearly see several options for making a screen for a bath:

Photo

In the photos you can see a lot of original ideas for making a screen for a bath:

Scheme

The diagrams show the details of the installation and assembly of the screen:

In family life. This is not just a room for hygiene procedures. For many people, this is a place of rest, relaxation and just a secluded place where you can be alone. It is unlikely that you will be able to relax in a room where rags hang on the pipes. for different purposes, and in the corners there are packs of detergents and bottles with household chemicals.

Therefore, most people strive to make the bathroom as comfortable, beautiful and clean as possible. Someone is satisfied with the simple painted walls and the ceiling, someone wants to decorate everything with tiles and plastic, and someone can afford it and natural materials like marble and onyx.

But at the same time, everyone certainly wants to close the space under the bathroom with some kind of screen (unless, of course, the bath itself is an exclusive product that decorates the bathroom), since contemplation of valves and plumbing siphons is an unattractive occupation.

Why do you need a screen under the bathroom

The screen covering the side of the bath has several functions:

• aesthetic, making the space more beautiful;
• functional - allows you to use the bathroom space more expediently if all household products and tools like a plunger, bath brushes and even rags for cleaning the apartment;
• sanitary - prevents water from flowing under the bathtub and prevents dust accumulation under it, which makes it easier to clean the room and makes it more hygienic.

In addition, the independent construction of the screen allows you to design a bathroom not in the standard "like everyone else's", but individually. For many craftsmen, this serves as a way of self-expression.

According to the method of installation, the screens under the bath are divided into:

• solid;
• swing;

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are best known in advance.

Solid screen many will find it most attractive, as it allows you to best fit the bath into the interior of the room. It is the fixed screen that allows the bathtub to be tiled in full accordance with, which gives it a uniform look.

The advantages of this method include the following:

• a good solution to the bathroom interior;
• ease of care for such a screen - a flat surface can be easily tidied up with a damp cloth or sponge;
• the service life of such a screen is practically unlimited.

But there are also disadvantages:

• difficult access to communications located under the bathroom (usually only small window), which in the event of a breakdown may lead to the need for complete disassembly of the screen;
• there is no way to wash the bathroom floor, and also to check the space for mold;
• there is nowhere to store household chemicals, since it is impossible to get anything due to the static structure;
• installation of the screen is quite laborious, especially if you have to close not only one (long) side of the bath, but also the end ones;
• it is necessary to leave a small niche for the feet under the bath, otherwise washing the bath will become quite inconvenient.

Swing screen- it is mainly used where there is enough space for opening the doors, as well as in those bathrooms where bathroom furniture sets are used rooms.

In this case, hinged doors make the screen part of this headset, allowing you to decorate the room in a single way. But for this, most likely, you will have to make a custom-made screen, otherwise it is difficult to achieve a complete resemblance to furniture.

Most often, such screens are made of MDF, which is similar in color to the shade of furniture.

The advantages of such designs include:

• high decorativeness;
• opportunity to place with inside doors are quite voluminous shelves for various accessories and household chemicals (and full opening of the doors makes their use as convenient as possible).

• can be used only in bathrooms of considerable size or with a small amount of equipment;
• the need to order a screen greatly increases its cost.

Sliding screens- Most Popular. When making with your own hands, this type is most often used.

Such a screen consists of two horizontal guides along which two doors move.

A ready-made screen of this type can be bought in a store or ordered if the dimensions of your bath are non-standard. Typically, the length of the screen varies from 150 to 180 cm. Its height can also be changed with the help of sliding legs, which allow it to be adjusted to any bathroom height.

The frames and doors of such screens (both factory-made and home-made) can be made of various materials. Most often used for frames:

• - cheap, fairly durable, moisture-resistant and easy-care material of the most different colors and textures (the only drawback is that it can burst with a strong blow);
• aluminum - stronger than plastic, moisture resistant, can be painted in any color (but the paint can eventually wear off from the surface of the profile;
• a version with a roller mechanism, which makes the frame invisible and facilitates sliding of the doors (but their price is much higher and it is almost always necessary to order the mechanism individually).

The following materials are used for the manufacture of doors:

• plastic - light material, varied in outward appearance, is not afraid of moisture, but with an accidental strong impact it can collapse;
• MDF - outwardly very similar to, there is a wide selection of textures and colors, but moisture resistance is not too high;
• Chipboard - inexpensive, can be covered with a film, but has low water resistance (the material is quite heavy and more suitable for swing doors);
• plexiglass - a wide variety of textures, moisture resistant and durable, looks much better than plastic, but also fragile under mechanical stress.

DIY screen making

Most often for self-made choose the option with a fixed screen with a technological hole.

Such a screen can be done in several ways:

• lay out of bricks;
• make a wooden or steel frame and sheathe it with plasterboard or other board material.

Brick screen - a solid, stationary structure that can only be removed by disassembling it completely. Therefore, before installing it, you need to make sure that all pipes, their connections, siphons and valves are in excellent condition and do not require repair for many years.

To erect the wall of the screen, you can use a well-fired brick (it absorbs moisture poorly) or a partition block:

1. First, in accordance with the size of the brick, mark the masonry line on the floor. More often, the wall is made half a brick thick, you can put it on the edge, but such a wall will be unstable.
2. Laying is carried out in the usual manner - with bandaging of the seams. For greater stability of the masonry, it is tied to the walls of the bathroom, attaching a wire to them at the level of each row.
3. Laying out the wall, leave a hole in it of the required size in the state of the communications under the bathroom.
4. Since the bathtub expands upward, bricks can also be laid on the edge in the upper rows.
5. After the masonry dries, it is tiled or tiled.

Never use masonry as a support for the edge of the bathtub. To prevent this from happening, a gap of about 1 cm is left between the top row of bricks and the bathroom, which is then foamed.

This is the simplest and cheapest type of screen for DIY production.

To make it, you need to build a frame, which is then sheathed with sheets of drywall. The frame can be made from both wood and metal profiles. Using timber frame, it needs to be painted or processed special means to reduce the likelihood of decay and mold.

For a wooden frame you will need:

• bars measuring 40 * 40 mm;
• screws;
• metal corners.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Measurements are made at the location of the screen and the marking of the points of attachment of the bars. It should be borne in mind that the screen frame should be slightly recessed under the bath, taking into account the thickness of the finishing layer (). If you plan to finish the gypsum board with tiles, then you need to add more thickness of the tile and the adhesive layer.
2. The preparation of the frame bars is carried out according to measurements: 2 horizontal and vertical bars in the required amount... If the bathtub is short, then 2 vertical bars along the edges of the frame will be enough. If the bathtub is long, then it is better to add a couple of vertical bars at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other for the rigidity of the structure.
3. Holes must be drilled in the outermost side bars to secure the screen to the walls.
4. Then the frame is tied with screws and corners.
5. The frame is attached to the walls.
6. If necessary, the bottom block of the frame can be fixed to the floor.

To make the screen you will need:

• moisture resistant drywall;
• hinges for hinging the inspection hatch door;
• metal latch.

Operating procedure:

1. A drywall sheet is marked so that it covers the entire frame.
2. The intended panel is cut out with a knife or a construction knife.
3. A hatch hole is cut out in the panel and the door is hung and fixed with a latch.
4. The screen panel is attached to the frame with screws.
5. Check the stability of the screen and, if necessary, make its additional fastening.

The last step is to finish the surface of the screen with the selected finishing material: film, tiles, mosaics.

When using a metal profile as a frame, the order of work is the same, only the drywall is fastened not with screws, but with self-tapping screws.

For self-production of screens, you can use not only those materials that are given above, but also many others:

• Wood - you just need to pick up wood that is not afraid of dampness. Such a screen can be made in the form wooden blinds- that is, with gaps that will help ventilate the wood and the space under the bathroom.
• Plastic lining - mounted vertically on the frame so that water does not linger in the seams. You can also make a screen with narrow openings.
• Fabric - for such screens, quick-drying fabrics are selected that are easy to care for: polyester, nylon, membrane "breathable" fabrics. Such screens are obtained by upholstering or covering the frame with the selected material.
• A ready-made inspection hatch in a suitable color can be used as an inspection door.

Sometimes screens are made, the walls of which are deflected outward with the help of special fittings. On the inner surface of such screens, there are narrow but long baskets for storing cleaning agents, sponges and other accessories necessary in the bathroom.

Often they have a ready-made screen made of the same material in the kit. All accessories are supplied with shield shields.

It is more difficult to make a screen for a corner or curved bath. A bent metal profile sheathed with plastic is better suited here.

If you don't want to equip your bathroom with a boring purchased screen, then you can always make an inexpensive and beautiful homemade one. True, you will have to spend time and effort, but the product will be one-of-a-kind, and your bathroom will be exclusive.