Saw the furniture board without chips. How to make an even cut of chipboard at home? Ensuring a perfectly clean cut

How to nag chipboard without chips

How to cut a chipboard without chips?

Chipboard... This is a well-known chipboard, finely sanded and covered with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. How to cut a chipboard without chips. How to saw with an electric jigsaw without chips. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production and interior decoration premises.

Many home craftsmen prefer self-production furniture and buy high-quality laminated chipboard in hardware stores or from manufacturers. How to cut with a jigsaw without chips on one and on both sides, as well as with what files you need to cut so that there are no chips. Fortunately, the widest range of colors of laminated coatings allows you to easily choose the most suitable material... The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood, or a natural stone, embossed under shagreen or wood pores.

But to make with my own hands unique furniture or exclusive interior, it is not enough just to buy laminated chipboard and cut it according to patterns. The thin laminated coating is fragile. With gross illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be ragged, and deep shells appear on the edges of the coating. To cut a chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks of working with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

Custom cut will be smoother

High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. The dimensions of a standard slab are 2440 × 1200, and this is not the limit. The ways chipboard processing: how to cut the chipboard before cutting how to cut the chipboard without chips. We saw the tabletop without chips. How to drill big and how to nag electro. However, if you quite often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go in two ways:

Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tool
Order sawing chipboard in a specialized workshop.

Tools and materials
How to cut chipboard without chips?
Figured cutting
What you can't cut chipboard

?? We saw chipboard without chips

In this video case, I suggest the option to nag Chipboard no chips, without resorting to panel saws, pogru.

If you have at least once tried to cut a chipboard with your own hands, then you know for sure that this work is by no means simple and does not require so much skill, at the same time having good tool... It is especially difficult to process laminated chipboard, when sawing which often a lot of chips are formed. Therefore, probably the masters, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut the chipboard when making a purchase, especially since trading organizations probably provide such services, but their price is quite acceptable.

Sawing of chipboard is carried out using precise panel saws, which help to obtain blanks of a given size without a shape.

Modern models allow you to cut straight slab materials not only horizontally, not vertically, but at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you to calculate them not to provide in the form of a visual video file several options for a competent, inexpensive cut of sheet material (using special programs), if necessary, they will not perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work while cutting the chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is preferable to cut the chipboard with a hand mill, using homemade guides. Tell me how to cut wood chipboard without chips, all these saws allow to nag chipboard without chips. This method is not very convenient for cutting. large sheets, because while working with this tool, a table is required. Today, in this case, the method has to frequently change the cutters. But for a reason, you get cleanly processed, "chamfered" edges.

The electric jigsaw is the most popular tool for sawing chipboard

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to cut exactly, in addition, chips can form variations.

There is an option to try to install a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, intended for a laminate, on a jigsaw. Cutting with a jigsaw should be increased by increasing the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut the chipboard yourself, we will prepare for work:

a hacksaw with fine teeth (much better fit the one that is intended for metal work). With all this, the teeth must be divorced by 1 / 2.4 of the blade thickness, not hardened
paper adhesive tape
file for roughing the cut line
sandpaper for finishing the cut line.

Read:

How to cut chipboard without chips?

While we start cutting chipboard, especially laminated one, we cut a line with a sharp tool, because of which we can get acquainted with sawing, do not glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

In order for the chips to be as small as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw under acute angle to the surface (less than 30 °). The movements are smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate, not sharp jerks.

In that case, chips, however, could not be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and at the end with a fine-grained sandpaper. There is also an option to disguise what remains for our client to do defects, applying, wherever it is for you, a flexible profile.

Figured cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration on your own, here you will have to additionally spend money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips not the chipping caused when you have to cut the chipboard.

Price for manual frezer can fluctuate significantly, based on the manufacturer, power, availability of additional functions. If you do not plan to manufacture furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard, you need to follow these steps:

having marked out the contours of the necessary part on a chipboard sheet, we cut it out with an electric jigsaw, trying to cut back a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line
we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood, we do not carefully grind the ends with sandpaper
attaching the template to the part to be trimmed, clamp it with clamps, do not process it with a manual copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or another four knives used). The only condition is that the knives must) be at their full height to capture the cut thickness to be processed. After processing, it remains only to stick the edge on the part. How to do this, see the video:

What you can't cut chipboard

If the volume of work is large enough, and the quality requirements are small, some craftsmen advise to saw the chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called a grinder). How to cut chipboard; 4. To protect the board from chips, stick it on how to cut the chipboard without chips. Here they use a disc designed for woodworking. How to smoothly saw off chipboard without chips and lint. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is fixed with clamps along the cutting line. Sawing chipboard using a grinder can be seen in the video.

In this material, we will touch upon such a topical issue for the garage masters dealing with laminated chipboard furniture, the question of how cut laminated chipboard no chips. In fact, the question is quite topical, because professional equipment (panel saw) on which cutting is performed in furniture shops costs about a million rubles, which is not affordable for everyone, and the area for its placement should be slightly more than the standard 18 sq. meters. A feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades (the first is a small scoring and the second is the main one, which follows exactly after it). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?

The most optimal, in my opinion, replacement is a plunge-cut circular saw complete with a guide rail. We’ll talk about it today.

Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw - this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.

Professional models (for example, Festool saws, saw even better, but also cost 5 times more).

So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a conventional circular saw? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth stop. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of cut, in addition, the "head" returns to its original position on its own in the absence of operator pressure. Secondly, these are the obligatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly, it is a rigid structure that excludes backlash (the cut takes place strictly in one place).

The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, it is a tape made of hard rubber - the black strip on the right)

The tape presses the laminate flooring, preventing pieces of it from coming off at the points where the teeth of the saw blade exit. The tire also has grooves for fixing on the workpiece with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).

By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinters on the side opposite to the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.

The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does not move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from the standard F-shaped ones. The price, by the way, is the same).

All these features allow you to cut in two passes. The first is not deep cuts upper layer laminate. The second one cuts through to the full depth. At the same time, there is no more material at the point of exit of the tooth from the workpiece, therefore there is nothing to pull out, respectively, chips are not formed. This is all in theory. Let's see how this is all done in practice.

The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use a carpenter's square).

We draw a marking line, connecting these risks.

Along the line, set the guide rail so that the edge of the splinter-resistant tape is aligned with the markings.

Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it - the tape on the tire will help). On a vaulted piece, they are possible due to the absence of an insert on the saw itself.

You can, of course, cut by laying the chipboard sheet on the workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do that, although this may be the only correct method with large pieces).

The bus is fastened to the workpiece with a pair of F-shaped clamps inserted into special grooves on the bus.

We take a saw in our hands and set 11-12 mm on the depth regulator, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the tire itself "eats" about 5 mm).

We put the saw on the tire, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protrusions on the tire.

We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that there is a small amount of chips on the part of the workpiece uncovered with the tape.

And one more photo from a different angle.

And close-up

Change the depth to 35-40 mm and make a second through cut without changing the position of the tire.

Having removed the tire, we see a fairly accurate cut that does not require additional processing.

Separately photographed the part after removing the tire from above

And from the bottom side.

By the way, the bottom cut is traditionally "cleaner" because in this place the teeth of the disc only cut into the material, they pull it out at the exit.

I will also note one important fact. Work with sharp discs. The disc used in this lesson is already pretty "tired" and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk, there would be no chips at all.

In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the cut quality is also strongly influenced by the material being cut. There are more caustic coatings and more durable coatings... V this example used boards of 16 mm laminated chipboard Lamarty - one of the best domestic boards. Chipboard Egger or Kronospan are much more susceptible to chipping, and I would most likely not have had such a result with this disc.

All these moments come with experience, it's up to you to get a divorce to buy this device.

In principle, it is possible to cut in "two passes" and with ordinary circulars with homemade guide rails, the main thing is that the sole does not dangle, but it is less convenient to do this than with plunge-cut saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the cutting depth.

When you look at the price tags of furniture made of chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most affordable materials for designing furniture with your own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, both on the Internet and in “paper” magazines, can now be found for every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to neatly cut the chipboard.

Of the household tools, the most suitable for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, the saw wags; 2) chips are formed.

Are there any ways to solve these problems? There is. We will tell you about them today. By the way, all these tricks apply to cutting plywood.

Tip 1: Cut the chipboard on the floor with full support

Full support cutting means that when you push the saw to the end, the chipboard you cut will not fall off immediately.

If you want a very clean and clean cut, the chipboard is best cut on the floor. This will give you a 100% solid, stable base. The chipboard will not move even if you pile on top of it to complete the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, split or fall.

Place 5 × 10cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. Bars will have to be sacrificed as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet is, the neater the cut will be.

Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth

The correct cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.

Adjust the depth so that no more than half of the disc teeth protrude beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). It may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the prong cuts through the material rather than chopping it, and the saw also stabilizes so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make the saw marks on the chipboard cut less noticeable.

Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, raise the rail and watch from a close distance to install correct depth cutting. By the way, at the same time it would be good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. One more thing: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes upwards, so chips are most often formed on the surface of the chipboard that faces upwards, and the cut from the side of the surface looking downwards is cleaner. Therefore, position the chipboard with a good face down when cutting.

Tip 3: For longitudinal cut use a hard, long, straight object as a guide

As a guide for making a straight straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16 mm thick and about 30 cm wide, which was professionally cut in a specialized workshop. All that is needed is to tighten the ends with a clamp.

The main difficulty lies in positioning it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).

Add this value to your slice width, mark both edges of the chipboard and overlay a guide board. You will also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.

It is usually best to have a metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, so maximum stability of the saw during cutting is achieved.

Tip 4: check the guide before making the cut

This is a fine tuning, so to speak. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the cut part. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the rail and cut the board into the chipboard. Make sure the saw blade starts rotating in the air before it even touches the sheet to be cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the notch to make sure you've done everything and calculated correctly. Better, as they say, measure seven times ...

Tip 5: cut at a constant speed without stopping

Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.

Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, and the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means that you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too fast tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the blade to overheat and ignite the wood.

Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. This is why it is best to cut on the floor when you are making a long cut. You can crawl on your knees directly on the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, you do not need to stretch or bend.

Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.

Tip 6: Take a disc with big amount teeth

The more teeth there are on the disc, the clearer the cut will be. And, naturally, the disc must be sharp.

In principle, all discs from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside to the 140-tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth blade. Better to keep one more in reserve. A 56-tooth disc is commonly used for cutting.

Tip 7: Cross-section is best done with duct tape

The cross-cut runs perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade can chip easily. it a big problem, the best solution which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can accomplish this task using other disks. To do this, stick adhesive tape on both sides of the cut line. It will prevent chipping.

It must be removed carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminate.

And one more piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front, tape the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.

Any home craftsman sooner or later is faced with the need to cut chipboard. It can be making furniture with your own hands or wall cladding. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, it is not difficult to cut chipboard, but making the cut even and without chips is not an easy task.

Do it yourself or order?

Custom cut will be smoother

High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to the large size of the sheets. The dimensions of a standard slab are 2440 × 1200, and this is not the limit. However, if you quite often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go in two ways:

Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tool;
Order sawing chipboard in a specialized workshop.

What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

Cutting panels at home

It is quite possible to cut a sheet of chipboard or chipboard by hand. True, in this case you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

cutting sheets must be done on a flat, hard surface. Two large tables can be adapted for sawing large panels (their height must be the same!);
in order to exclude the appearance of chips, stick adhesive tape or good masking tape along the cutting line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
for sawing with hand saw pick up a blade with a grinding tooth. Saw teeth should be well sharpened. You need to drive the saw with slight pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
for cutting chipboard and chipboard boards with a jigsaw, the saw line should be scratched or even cut through. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the durable layer of the laminate;
install a file with a fine reverse tooth;
select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the "pendulum";
fasten a flat rail along the saw cut line and move the jigsaw strictly along it;
the jigsaw should be firmly pressed against the surface to be sawn.

All these recommendations help to properly saw and cut the chipboard, but chips, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, even cut line, without chips and saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops, where they will cut out any shape from a chipboard sheet for a reasonable fee.

Precision and quality

Precise cutting is the key to success

Panel saw machines for sawing chipboard and chipboard have high quality cutting, which allows you to reduce the subsequent costs of processing sections (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why on such machines it is possible to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in the production of furniture. Fancy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer tables, curly through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades- all this is possible when using machine tools.

There are two types of panel cutting machines:

vertical, representing a strong rigid vibration-resistant welded bed (frame), installed vertically with a backward deflection of 50 °, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90 °, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The precision of the cut is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous boards, a special scoring unit is used. The saw rotation frequency reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
horizontal, consisting of a table for a plate, carriages for moving the saw along the sawing mechanism and the sawing mechanism itself, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main saw and a scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw cuts deeply into the chipboard, and the scoring saw precisely and precisely cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45 °.

The miter saw is a "domesticated" and greatly reduced copy horizontal machine... It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or chipboard on it, but with small details she can handle it perfectly.

We saw other types of panels

Cutting MDF is different from cutting chipboard panels. The high density of the material quickly dulls the saw teeth, so it often has to be sharpened or completely changed. You can cut unrefined MDF on conventional machine however laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw. This is especially important when sawing slabs with a double-sided finish.

Fibreboard can be cut at home using an electric or hand jigsaw... Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth; the maximum speed must be set on the jigsaw. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure, if necessary, with clamps.

The electric jigsaw should be held with two hands, pressing firmly to the surface, move smoothly, strictly along the line of the marking, without jerking or pressing. The same applies to working with a hand jigsaw.

In the case when it is necessary to cut a lot of sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.

Video on sawing chipboard using a circular saw

It is not always easy to cut a chipboard beautifully and without chips. See how to do it right:

How to cut chipboard without chips

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to roll out another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing chipboard without chips .

There is enough fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. then it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the shop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU HAVE STUFFED IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but we have to cut it.

This article aims to answer this question. An overview of the options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I ask you to forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with the text ????

Method 1 - Scratch

The old-fashioned way. Previously used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now it is rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line for the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth hit exactly the scratch and not a step past. You can saw with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

In principle, in the photo on the right, you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed tutorial on this method

The cut is significantly cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chipping occurs. It is difficult to keep the instrument in line. So slow.

Cuts of acceptable quality, short in length, can be carried out with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met.

First, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and new. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be practically clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively little.

Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turns are not set to maximum (slightly above average.

The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to withstand the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Method 3 - circular saw

To work with circulars, we need a "finishing" saw blade(again, with a small tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top), as a rule, is clean. Chips off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).

You can cut like a free-sawing saw (it is quite difficult to lead exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of hassle with the markup.

So it is with a saw fixed in the table. When using guides, it is much more convenient to cut. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

Even with a clean disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.

Method 4 - Sawing with undercut

This is a modification of working with circular saw... Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (in the photo there is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

The whole trick is to, by analogy with a panel saw, make two cuts strictly along one line.

The cut on the tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, undercutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

If you enlarge the photo, you get something like this

The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, chips are not formed at the point of entry of the tooth into the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut and there is nothing to prick.

Not a bad way to trim misplaced parts, but you can't cut an entire cabinet that way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (he, too, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with the markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece, the quality does not differ at all from the format tool, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from the marking line by 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

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