Bath restoration. Restoration of a cast-iron bath Restoration of a cast-iron bath with acrylic
The top layer of enamel on steel and cast iron baths wears out over time. Unpleasant spots, cracks, chips, yellowness appear on the surface. Of course, such a bathtub can be thrown away and replaced with a new one, but restoration will prolong the life of your plumbing and save your family budget.
Restoration. Methods
Restoration can be carried out using various methods, including:
- application of two-component enamel. The two components are the hardener and the enamel itself. The mixture is applied to the surface like a regular paint;
- filling the bath with acrylic (glass). After sanding and thorough degreasing, the bath is filled with acrylic. After 2 days, the updated plumbing is completely ready for use;
- bath-in-bath installation. This method consists of installing an acrylic liner that is completely identical to the old bathtub. The insert is attached with glue or foam and allows you to use the restored bathroom for a long time.
Bath preparation for enameling or acrylic application
Although these methods have their own characteristics, the preparation procedure is completely identical. It is necessary to remove the layer of old enamel and achieve maximum adhesion of the future coating to cast iron / steel.
Find out what are, and also check out the types and tips for choosing, from our new article.
The following materials and accessories must be prepared:
- cleaning powder;
- solvent;
- cloth-based abrasive paper (for example, P24);
- fast-hardening polyester putty for automobiles;
- polyethylene, newspapers and masking tape;
- vacuum cleaner (or a wide soft brush);
- grinder + grinding wheels;
- the cloth is clean and does not leave lint;
- hair dryer for construction;
- screwdriver.
Step 1. We clean the entire surface of the bath with a brush and an abrasive agent (powder).
Step 2. We take sandpaper and clean the bath until there are risks from the abrasive. There is no need to rinse off the cleaning agent when sanding. Instead of sandpaper, you can use an angle grinder with a special attachment. This will greatly simplify the work and speed up the preparation process.
Step 3. After sanding, wash off all the crumbs and soap film well. Etch the bath using oxalic acid. We neutralize the acid with soda.
Step 4. Fill the bath with hot water up to the sides. We wait for about 10 minutes, open the drain so that the water glass, and then wipe the bath with a cloth dry. You can warm up the vessel with a building hair dryer. So the moisture will sooner evaporate and the bath can be further prepared for restoration.
Step 5. We examine the bathtub for major defects, potholes. We apply car putty, and after it dries, we grind it with fine sandpaper. We remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner / soft brush, after which we thoroughly degrease the entire surface of the plumbing with a solvent and wipe it with lint-free napkins.
Step 6. Unscrew the shower hose. We wrap the spout and taps in polyethylene so that drops of water do not get into the bath during operation.
Step 7. Armed with a screwdriver, dismantle the grate and siphon under the bathroom. We substitute the dishes under the drain hole, into which drops of acrylic or enamel will flow.
Strapping diagram. 1 - overflow pipe; 2 - drain pipe; 3 - metal wedge of the support; 4 - floor siphon; 5- sewer bell; 6 - metal grounding strip
Step 8. We seal all surfaces that adjoin the vessel to be restored with masking tape. Cover the floor, a nearby washing machine, and cover the sink with plastic or old newspapers.
We begin the restoration process.
Enamel application
You can enamel not only a bath, but also a shower tray made of steel and cast iron, a washbasin, a kitchen sink. The entire surface of the sanitary ware is restored, as well as individual areas, if necessary.
This method of restoration is short-lived, but quite economical. will serve you for a couple of years, after which you will again have to think about staining or replacing it.
Note! The enamel has a pungent chemical odor, so all work can be performed only in personal protective equipment for the respiratory system.
Step 1. Open the enamel and hardener. Pour them into a convenient container, mix with a mixer until smooth (see the exact proportions on the package).
Step 2. With a brush, begin to apply the enamel, making first horizontal and then vertical strokes. We carefully paint over the entire bath.
Advice! To prevent bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for one day!
Step 3. Without waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second. Gently stretch the smudges with a brush.
Step 4. Paint over the bottom of the vessel again.
The bath will be ready for use in about 5 days. Until this moment, it is advisable not to turn on water and prevent dirt from getting on the painted surfaces.
Bath enamel prices
Bath enamel
Glass restoration or bulk bath
Such a two-component mixture is quite convenient to apply, does not have a pungent odor and has increased strength characteristics. The starch spreads by itself, and a monolithic even film forms on the surface of the bath. At the same time, the starkril does not dry too quickly, which means that work can be done without haste and fuss.
Step 1. Knead the glass in a convenient container with a mixer.
Step 2. Add the glass from the common dish to a small glass and pour it onto the top edge of the tub. As soon as the trickle reaches the middle of the wall, we begin to move the glass around the perimeter, periodically pouring the mixture into the glass.
Step 3. We repeat the process starting from the middle of the walls. It is not worth saving the mixture, the excess will merge into the container under the hole, and the coating will turn out to be even and smooth.
If bubbles form on the surface, they can be smoothed out with a plastic spatula or brush.
The polymerization process takes up to 4 days. The exact instructions for proportions and drying times are indicated on the glass packaging.
When the surface has completely hardened, you can remove films, newspapers, scotch tape, install a siphon (old or new, at the discretion of the owner) and use a bathroom that has been restored with your own hands.
Video - Bath restoration with liquid acrylic by the "filling" method
Prices for bulk acrylic
Bathtub to bathtub or acrylic liner
If you do not want to carry out hygiene procedures for several days, using a basin or visiting a bathhouse, then the method of inserting the acrylic liner will suit you perfectly. The process of self-restoration in this way takes no more than three hours, and you can use the bathroom the very next day.
In addition, the liner made of durable sanitary acrylic significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the bath, as a result, the water cools very slowly.
For the best result, it is important not only to select a suitable liner, but also to properly distribute the adhesive (Henkel foam and sealant).
Step 1. Armed with a screwdriver and a grinder, dismantle the strapping elements.
Step 2. Preparing the bath for installing the liner. We clean the entire surface with sandpaper, a grinder, remove the debris with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the surface. Wipe all drops of water dry. This measure is necessary to improve the adhesion of the adhesive foam to the sanitary ware.
Step 3. The inserts are transported with a technological edge, which we carefully cut with a grinder before installation.
Step 4. After the edge has been cut off, insert the insert into the bath and make markings for the technological holes. To do this, draw circles with a marker, sticking your hand under the bath and outlining the drain and overflow holes.
Step 5. By marking, we make drilling of technological holes.
Step 6. Apply two-component foam and sealant. We insert a bottle of sealant into the gun and distribute it around the drain and overflow holes. Next, we take the foam, inject a special composition into the balloon with a syringe, which will not allow it to swell excessively. From bottom to top, apply foam in stripes to the bottom, walls, sides of the restored vessel.
Step 7. Insert the acrylic liner into the bath, gently press it with your hands, leveling it. Remove excess sealant and foam.
Step 8. We install the siphon (piping).
Step 9. Fill the bathtub with water so that the foam, while solidifying, does not displace the light liner. The next day, you can drain the water and use the updated bathroom.
In your free time, you can install a decorative screen under the restored bathtub, as well as protective sides on the edges in contact with the walls.
Be sure to remove the protective film from the liner before starting your hygiene procedures.
Video - Installing an acrylic liner. DIY bathroom restoration
How to repair chips or minor repairs to a damaged bathtub
Sometimes small chips appear on the surface, cracks from falling heavy objects, scratches. And in this case, there is no need to make a complete restoration, it is enough to carry out minor repairs in the proper sequence.
Previously, such defects were eliminated by mixing glue with tooth powder or by applying epoxy to the chip and sprinkling it with porcelain dust. But such methods are extremely unreliable, and it is better to refuse them.
Step one. Preparing the chip for repair. To begin with, we apply a rust converter to the chip, wait, wash off the composition with water. Then we clean the chip with powder or dishwashing liquid. We rinse with water and wipe dry.
Step two. Using acetone or another solvent, degrease the defective area. Dry and warm the surface with a hairdryer.
Step three. Using automotive putty, coat the chip. We wait until it dries and sand it with sandpaper.
Step four. We cover the putty place with two-component acrylic or automotive enamel.
Also, for restoration, you can use a ready-made repair kit for the bathtub, which includes acrylic paint, hardener, several sheets of sandpaper, epoxy putty, polish and detailed instructions. The approximate cost of such a kit is from 900 to 1300 rubles.
Video - Repair of chips and even through holes in a metal bath
relevant because a cast-iron bathtub is a very durable thing, if not eternal. What can not be said about its coating, which wears out over time and spoils the look of the entire bathroom. What is the way out? Dismantling a cast-iron bathtub is a rather laborious and expensive task, which includes not only the cost of buying a new bathtub, but also the cost of updating the tile, which is likely to suffer in the process. In addition, most people know that a cast iron bathtub has a lot of advantages and it is simply a pity to throw it away.
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Fortunately, modern repair technologies make it possible to restore a cast iron bath beyond recognition. To do this, you can use one of three options:
- Surface coating with enamel;
- Coating the surface with acrylic;
Restoration of a cast-iron bath with enamel
This method allows you to return the whiteness and shine to the bath, while saving the owners a considerable amount. All work can be done independently, no special skills are required. The main thing is thoroughness and accuracy.
The preparatory stage is very important, the purpose of which is to remove the old coating, cleaning up small cracks and rust. This is done using abrasive powder and sandpaper by hand, or the process is accelerated with a drill with an abrasive wheel. After cleaning, the bath is well cleaned of all particles and dust, degreased and dried.
The enamel is applied to the prepared surface with a thin layer using a brush or roller. It is recommended to apply 2 to 4 coats. After complete drying, which requires at least 7 days, the bath will be ready for use.
The main and, perhaps, the only advantage of this method is its low cost. Homemade enamel lasts no more than 5 years.
Restoration of a cast-iron bath with liquid acrylic
The preparation of the bathtub for coating with acrylic follows the same scheme as for coating with enamel. The surface should be matt, dry, grease-free and heated. The mixer is preliminarily removed and the drain and overflow holes are sealed. Acrylic is applied without the use of brushes or rollers, pouring a thin stream onto the sides of the bathtub and letting it flow freely along the walls. At the bottom, the material can be leveled with a spatula.
The advantages of acrylic over enamel are undeniable. Acrylic is more flexible, strong and durable. Its brilliance and whiteness delight residents for years. It is easy to clean even without any special tools. Bulk acrylic dries several times faster than enamel, so the bathroom can be used in 1-2 days. You can add a color scheme to acrylic that matches the interior of the bathroom and make the bath a full-fledged part of the interior.
Additional services
This method allows you to get an almost new acrylic bathtub, which will cost several times less. Its essence is that an acrylic insert made according to the same dimensions is installed in an existing cast-iron bath. Many ready-made inserts are sold in stores, but it is still better to use the services of professionals who will make accurate measurements of your bathtub and make a high-quality installation in compliance with the technology.
The most important thing is to ensure high-quality adhesion of surfaces to each other and tightness. Otherwise, fungus may develop under the liner. An experienced craftsman will complete the job within 2-3 hours. After that, the bath must be filled with water for a day so that the liner is securely fixed.
Acrylic has established itself as a durable, strong, safe and beautiful material. A liner or acrylic coating will allow the bathtub to last more than one year, provided it is properly cared for. Enameling as a restoration method can be used in cases where the budget is very limited.
Cast iron bath restoration: which is better?
It is much easier and cheaper to restore a cast iron bathtub than to replace it with a new one. Applying a new top coat will delay the purchase of a new product and complete renovation of the bathroom. How long this period will be depends on the correct choice of material.
Enamel
Enamel attracts with its low cost, but this is exactly the case when momentary savings can turn into even greater expenses in the future. The very modest service life of the enamel coating makes it very unprofitable financially.
To some it seems logical that it is better to re-enamel a cast-iron, once enameled bathtub. If we were talking about powder enamel, which is applied to a surface in an industrial environment, perhaps this would be so. However, at home, baths are covered with a completely different enamel composition, the service life of which cannot be compared with the industrial one.
Enamel paint cannot create a sufficiently dense and strong layer for the coating to be durable. Even minor household damage to the surface leads to chips and cracks, and rust and hard water salts will only contribute to its further destruction.
One of the features of enamel is its porous structure. No matter how diligently the owners take care of the bathroom, the pollution will gradually fill the micropores of the surface, making it gray and dirty in appearance.
The fresh enamel coating looks very elegant: a snow-white bath with a bright glossy shine. Be careful, such beauty may be unsafe, because this surface is very slippery, especially when wet. When planning the restoration of a cast-iron bathtub with enamel, you should think about all the residents. If among them there are those who, due to age or health reasons, find it difficult to coordinate their movements, it is better to refuse enameling.
Acrylic
Acrylic is a versatile material that is suitable for the restoration of any bathtub, including cast iron. Proper surface preparation provides excellent adhesion and a strong, durable finish.
The most important feature and main advantage of acrylic is its plasticity, which not only ensures ideal distribution of the material over the surface, but also makes it resistant to impacts, falling of heavy blunt objects and other possible damage. Thanks to this strength, the acrylic coating can extend the life of the cast-iron bath for a period of 10 years, and during all this time the product will have a presentable appearance.
Caring for the acrylic coating is not difficult. The most important thing is no exposure to abrasive materials and aggressive household chemicals. Gentle cleaning with a soft cloth or sponge and regular soap will be sufficient. Acrylic itself is hygienic, since it is not a medium for the development of potentially dangerous microorganisms. With such a coating, you can forget about disinfecting treatment - the bath will be clean and safe.
Coating a cast-iron bathtub with acrylic is a business that can be scheduled for the weekend and use the updated product after 2 days. This is possible due to the quick drying of the material and the uncomplicated application process.
When choosing a coating for a cast-iron bath, masters who own modern repair techniques recommend still focusing on restoration with liquid acrylic. Thanks to him, the cast-iron bath will last at least another 10 years, while remaining the same white and shiny. Enameling is a method that has outlived its usefulness and does not meet modern safety, durability and quality requirements.
Cast iron bath restoration reviews
One of the most important advantages of cast iron baths is their durability. Such plumbing is capable of serving faithfully for several decades, while maintaining its technical characteristics. However, over time, the bathtub can lose its original whiteness.
Agree, not everyone is ready to get rid of high-quality cast iron for the sake of plastic or steel counterparts. An alternative solution is to restore the bath with liquid acrylic at home. The work is simple, but it requires compliance with some nuances.
We will show you how to choose high-quality acrylic for your bathtub, identify manufacturers you can trust, and also describe in detail the sequence of updating old plumbing fixtures. This information will help home craftsmen to restore the former gloss of the coating and extend the service life of the hot tub.
Let's start with the terms. The domestic market for acrylic products intended for the restoration of a bowl of a used bath is full of brands. "Plastol", "Yarli", "Standard", "Stakril", Finnacril and even "Ecoenamel"- there are many names.
All enamels are two-component, approximately similar in price - 1400-1500 rubles. for a 3.4 kg can, which is enough to cover a 1.5-meter container with acrylic.
All paints and varnishes of the liquid acrylic group, incl. each of the trade brands listed above, the bath is being restored. The walls of the sanitary bowl are poured with two-component acrylic, which polymerizes and hardens, turning into a smooth and durable coating in a day.
The bulk bath is not a marketable product, but a painting technology. It consists in pouring a new paintwork coating over the existing worn out paint layer. Manufacturers develop their acrylic-enamel series of restoration materials for bathtubs, the formulas of which are carefully hidden from competing companies.
In the circle of bathroom tank restorers and their clients, liquid acrylic of any brand is usually called glass. Although Stakril is a brand of the St. Petersburg-based Ekolor enterprise, popular rumor assigns the name of its brand to all liquid acrylic compounds.
The usual set with liquid acrylic comes with a bottle of hardener. Some manufacturers offer
set of three products - liquid acrylic, hardener and degreaser
The reason is simple: Stacril was the first widely advertised polymer material for bathroom restoration, which is why it has become a household name for liquid acrylics in general. The technically correct name for acrylic-based bath paints and varnishes is "bulk acrylic".
Therefore, when choosing an acrylic bathroom paint, it is necessary to name a certain brand of product, and not “you have a glass bottle”.
Now about the quality. Manufacturing companies of bulk acrylics Ecolor LLC (Stakril brand), Plastol LLC, Ekovanna LLC and NPK YarLi CJSC (Yarli brand) are the largest enterprises in Russia.
It is their products that are recognized as the highest quality on the domestic market. For self-repair of the enamel coating of the bathroom, you should choose one of the named brands.
In addition to having our own technical laboratories, many years of experience in the production and distribution of products throughout Russia, the products of all four listed manufacturers of bulk acrylic have another advantage - they are trying to imitate it.
On the one hand, this is a plus, because it is pointless to produce a fake product under a bad brand and product. However, the disadvantage is also obvious - the likelihood of purchasing a low-quality product.
The Stakrila manufacturing company has not changed the design of its packaging for many years. Therefore, any other colors on
containers with acrylic mean only one thing - fake
Fake Bulk Acrylic
There are more and more homeowners interested in restoring enamel in the bathtub from year to year. Following the growing demand, manufacturers of bulk acrylics are expanding their production and improving the series of acrylic enamels for sanitary ware. But a variety of types of "entrepreneurs" are trying to make money on this paintwork.
First type: small companies intending to occupy a niche in the local market. Before reaching consumers with liquid acrylic of their own production, they buy up the products of large companies in bulk, pour them into their container containers and trade them under their own brand.
Having positioned buyers for a “new product” in a few months of sales, such firms begin to bottle not someone else's products, but their own. Without sufficient funds and equipment, these companies are developing acrylic technologies with "optimal performance", using raw materials from questionable suppliers.
Second type: similar companies also purchase large quantities of liquid acrylic with a hardener from well-known manufacturers, but only in the original container with a label.
Next, each container is opened, part of the product is poured from there and the solvent is topped up. The diluted acrylic is taken to the market and sold under the guise of an original product.
If liquid acrylic is diluted with a solvent, its performance will drop dramatically. Such a coating does not adhere well to the bath, it is too liquid and brittle. After a short time, the painted bath turns yellow, the enamel peels off. Note that you cannot dilute liquid acrylic with anything other than the hardener included in the kit.
This fake can be easily recognized by the wrong color of the label and the low-quality plastic from which its container is made. Such "products" regularly appear in various regions of Russia.
Third type: a small business purchases several containers of well-known brands of liquid acrylic and tries to copy them. Having developed a very approximate formula and technological process, this company buys the cheapest raw materials. The release of products with bright labels and names begins.
The manufacturer does not make attempts to popularize a certain product brand, because the product is of poor quality and soon there will be no buyers for it. However, the company often changes the shape of the containers and the name of the product, thereby restarting its distribution over and over again. Such liquid acrylic cannot be called high-quality, only cheap.
Nikolay Fedorenko
Improving the formula, improving the technological process for the production of liquid acrylic, its largest domestic manufacturers have been engaged in more than five to eight years each. Only their products are able to serve as long as possible, have no odors and are resistant to yellowing. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the enamel of large enterprises for bath repair.
Nikolay Fedorenko Expert in the field of arrangement of sewerage systems and water supply systems
In the regional markets of Russia, fakes for acrylic enamels most often appear. "Stakril", Ekovanna and "Plastol"... To interfere with imitators, manufacturers of these brands periodically change the color design and shape of cans with liquid acrylic, with a hardener.
You can find out the actual type of the brand you are interested in by visiting the manufacturer's website and examining the product description page.
However, the product is sold in different regions in different ways - some batches are sold out for months. Within the factory warranty period and subject to proper storage conditions, the tared liquid acrylic is completely suitable for use.
Suppose you are offered a product of the brand, say, Plastol - the expiration date is ok, but the bucket is decorated in an outdated manufacturer's design. The seller explains: the consignment of acrylic arrived before Plastol changed the design of the cans, and the rest of the product is original.
Examine the acrylic bucket and hardener bottle:
- Lid markings. Plastol prints the batch number on the lid of the cans using laser lithography. Manufacturers "Ekovanna" and "Stakril" mark the lids with adhesive labels, where the batch number is printed. There should be no other labels on the lids.
- Cover color... Be sure to make sure that the color of the caps on the can and bottle matches the product image on the manufacturer's website.
- Brand logo. Decals on the sides of the can and bottle must contain the valid logo of the manufacturer;
- Correctness of the sticker. The labels on the sides of acrylic cans, on solvent bottles are applied by the original manufacturer by means of in-line adhesive. Skewed, wrinkled areas mean that the label was glued by hand and this is a fake;
- The integrity of the filling. The plastic protector on the caps of the hardener bottle and liquid acrylic cans must be intact (not tampered with).
The caps of bottles containing liquid hardener are usually marked with a marker when the batch is released - this is normal. There is not enough room on the bottle cap to properly print or place a label.
For more information on the types of bulk acrylics, as well as tips for choosing a restoration enamel, see:
Do-it-yourself bathroom restoration
Independent restoration of the enamel coating of the bath bowl will save on average 1200-1700 rubles (this is how much the masters take). However, you need to assess your skills before starting work: minimal experience in assembling plumbing and painting work is essential.
The process of preparing the bath and casting a new coating requires accuracy, otherwise long-term quality cannot be achieved.
Materials and tools used
So you've got enough liquid acrylic and hardener. Please note: you need a volume of acrylic enamel, which will be enough to decorate your bathroom. Soviet-made models have a length of 1400-1700 mm, European products are made with a maximum length of 1800 mm.
All required tools with protective equipment must be prepared before starting work on the "filling bath".
Carefully assess your readiness to work. At the stage of stripping, it is still permissible to stop work, but after
mixing acrylic with hardener must not be stopped
Manufacturers indicate on containers with liquid acrylic the length of the bath for which the tared volume of the material is designed. Measure the length of the bowl along the center, from the edge of one side to the edge of the other. If your object of work is longer than the size indicated on the can with acrylic, you need to buy more material. It is important.
For enameling using the "pouring bath" technology, the following tools and materials are needed:
- Stirrer... When manually mixing acrylic with a hardener and color scheme, you will need a wooden or plastic spatula - blade width 40-60 mm, handle length 500-600 mm. Mixing with a drill with a mixer should not be carried out, only manually.
- Sandpaper- 5 pieces. (230 * 280mm). Requires emery grade P60 (according to ISO-6344) or 25-H (according to GOST 3647-80) on a fabric basis, water resistant.
- Thinner No. 646 or 647... It is required to degrease the surface of the bathroom bowl after sanding and rinsing it.
- Putty knife- width 100 mm. A metal spatula will work, but only a new one, without dirt and rusty streaks.
- Duct tape- scotch tape, 50 mm wide. You will need two types of tape - masking tape (on paper) and fixing tape (on film).
- Wallpaper knife. It is necessary for cutting scotch tape and trimming dried acrylic drips from the bathroom drain hole before reinstalling the drain-overflow.
- Screwdriver- straight and cross to remove the drain-overflow siphon. A gas wrench may also be required;
- Stool... Mixing acrylic with a hardener and collecting the prepared enamel in a container for application is much more convenient if you put a bucket of liquid acrylic on a stool.
In principle, to prepare the walls and the bottom of the bath for casting with acrylics, manual processing with sandpaper is quite enough. But only if it had not been painted with anything before, i.e. factory enamel on the surface. Otherwise, you will need to clean it with a drill or grinder.
To remove the secondary enamel for the drill, you need a Velcro attachment and emery wheels of the P40 (or 40-H) brand, for the grinder - grinding wheels of the same brand.
Required protective equipment:
- Work clothes- trousers, long-sleeved shirt or jacket. It is not dangerous to get acrylic drops on the skin, but after drying it is quite difficult to remove them.
- Headdress- at least a kerchief. Hair should not come into contact with the enamel coating during the casting process.
- Respirator- at least a "petal". Cleaning the bathtub will cause strong dust emission, you should not breathe such air.
- Disposable latex gloves... Hands must be protected from contact with liquid acrylic.
You will need newspaper sheets or PVC sheeting to cover and hang surfaces around the plumbing to be refurbished. We remind you: drops of cured acrylic spilled during the restoration process are very difficult to remove.
Preparation of the bathroom
Collect and remove items commonly found in this room: toothbrushes, towels, laundry basket, and other cosmetic and hygiene items. The shower curtain should be removed, if possible - the curtain bar should also be removed.
It should be noted that cracked bowls cannot be restored. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out its installation.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Acrylic enameling of a bowl previously painted with another enamel and requiring some areas to be putty:
Video instructions for restoring the finish of the bathtub with liquid acrylic from the manufacturer of the restoration compounds "Plastol":
The following video describes the process of installing the piping that was removed before applying the acrylic enamel:
Using the instructions in the article, you will restore the enamel coating of the bath yourself. A renewed container will last as long as it has been carefully repaired.
Note that self-leveling acrylic finishes require careful cleaning. You cannot use abrasive products, only liquid ones, and substances containing a solvent will not work.
Share with your readers your experience in restoring an old cast iron bathtub. Please leave comments on the article, ask your questions, participate in discussions and attach photos of the updated plumbing. The feedback form is located below.
- the most demanded service for the economical and practical renovation of old enamel. If the bathtub in your apartment has darkened, rust, stains, smudges have appeared on it, do not rush to change it. The situation can be corrected in a simpler and more economical way. The modern technology of "Bulk Bath" restoration with the help of "Liquid Acrylic" enamel allows you to give your bath a new life. This technology has already established itself as the most advanced and cost effective.
ANYTHING YOU NEED:
Bath restoration with acrylic
It would seem a simple matter to cover with a layer of new enamel, but one cannot do without a specialist. Experts warn that you should not try to restore the bath yourself, it is not as easy to do as it might seem at first glance. In order for the surface of the bath to properly fix liquid acrylic, it must be prepared. At the first stage of work, the master cleans the bath with a drill and sandpaper.
Then the surface of the bath is washed, dried and degreased, and the defects are putty. The bath is cleaned of old enamel and rust, and only after that you can start renovating.
Having prepared the acrylic working composition, the specialist applies it to the surface of the bath. Acrylic is applied by pouring, for this you do not need to use a roller or, moreover, a brush. Starting from the upper sides, the master evenly pours liquid acrylic. Following all the curves of the bath and filling in all cracks, the acrylic coating forms an even glossy layer. The thickness of the acrylic layer reaches from 2 to 6 mm, which ensures the strength, durability and thermal stability of the coating without leaving streaks, smudges and other defects.
Remember that an untrained, specially trained person will not be able to properly apply liquid acrylic. Use the services of professionals to get the desired result. The work of the master to restore the bathtub will take only 2-3 hours and after 36 hours you can use your new bathtub.
The adhesion of acrylic (adhesion) to the bathtub is so great that it can increase its service life up to 15 or even 20 years. Bulk acrylic does not crack, does not exfoliate, such a coating has an extremely smooth surface, for this reason dirt and rust do not clog into it. The refurbished bathtub can be easily washed with regular gel products.
After the acrylic pouring procedure, your bath will acquire a beautiful shining gloss. The surface will be smooth, resistant to bacteria, mechanical and chemical influences. Bulk acrylic is an environmentally friendly material with thermal and sound insulation properties.
Bath restoration with enamel
Restoration of the bath surface with enamel is a method that has been in demand for many years due to the lack of good alternatives and may still be advisable in some cases.
When the factory enamel loses its appearance, acquires a gray tint from ingrained dirt, becomes covered with reddish stains from rust and a mesh of cracks of different depths, you can try to reanimate it with a new layer of enamel. Of course, you shouldn't expect this layer to be as durable as one that has already served for several decades. Bathtub restoration with enamel is a cosmetic coating that will return beauty, shine and whiteness to the bathtub, but, unfortunately, for a short time.
Bathtub enamel is essentially an epoxy paint that is mixed with a hardener just before starting work. The mixture prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions is applied to the surface previously prepared for coating. To ensure good adhesion, the old enamel is removed with sandpaper and powder. All cracks, chips and potholes are smoothed out to a metallic sheen, all material detachments are removed. Especially deep surface defects are filled with a primer.
Before applying the enamel, the bath is heated by filling it with hot water and degreased with White Spirit solvent. The surface is coated with a brush or roller, in thin layers. Depending on the type of enamel used and on the visual effect that appears during the work, the master can apply from 2 to 4 layers.
The enamelled bathtub will be ready for use after 5 days at the earliest. This is exactly how much the material will need for good adhesion to the surface and complete drying. In order for the resulting effect of whiteness and glossy shine to remain for the longest possible period, you need to use the bathroom very carefully. To do this, avoid impacts, exposure to metal objects, the fall of heavy objects on the surface, cleaning with aggressive agents and hard brushes.
Even with the most gentle use, you should not count on a very long use of the bath, restored with enamel. It will retain its presentable appearance for no more than 1 year. Therefore, it makes sense to immediately pay attention to restoration methods that will provide a more durable and high-quality coating.
Bath restoration price
There is one more argument in favor of restoring the bathtub with bulk acrylic - the price is very favorable for the consumer. Judge for yourself, the cost of restoring a bath is almost 3 times cheaper than buying a new one, and the hassle of repairing is less. There is no need to dismantle the old bathtub, take it out, risking damage to the tiles or wall tiles.
Bath restoration with liquid acrylic is a smart choice for those who are used to saving time and money!
Any, even the most reliable and high-quality bathtub, over time can become covered with cracks and roughness, yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents and household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the owner of the bathtub is faced with the question of buying and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs indoors. Therefore, it is better to restore the bath - it will not require large expenses, and the work can be done on your own.
There are three main methods for restoring the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with bulk acrylic and using a special insert. It is better to choose a specific method, taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.
In addition, it should be borne in mind that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as that which was manufactured in an industrial environment.
- The materials used to restore plumbing are less durable and less durable, so the surface requires more accurate and gentle care.
- When enameling a bath or restoring it with liquid acrylic, the following problem can be encountered: the original color of the bowl will shine through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
- During use and cleaning, the color of the bath can change due to the influence of chemicals.
- Sharp or bulky objects will damage the new coating even if dropped from a small height, and coloring agents (such as hair dyes) can leave permanent stains.
- Those who smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an ugly burn on the surface.
However, at the same time, the restored plumbing is maintainable, and its properties directly depend on the quality of materials and the accuracy of the work.
Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compounds, enamel-coated steel and cast iron plumbing is often found in modern homes and apartments. Metal is a strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quickly. Restoration of the enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.
True, this method of restoring the appearance of baths has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates under it, which leads to the appearance of an unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for baths with a large number of small defects - they can be visible even after coating.
How to choose a composition for enamel restoration?
In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for the restoration of bathtubs. There are not so many options, so for the right choice you need to know the main characteristics and properties of the compositions.
| Name | Manufacturer | Durability of the coating | Features of work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russia, Germany | On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the indicator can reach 7-9 years) | Two-component hardener enamel that cures completely in 48 hours. It fills all small defects of the bath surface well. It is rather difficult to work with the solution, as it is very thick and “sets” in about 60 minutes | |
| Russia | 6-8 years old | Two-component epoxy resin mortar. You can use it when there are no noticeable defects and damage on the bathroom. Requires fast work as it hardens in about 70 minutes. Toxic in liquid form and may cause allergies | |
| Company "Tikkurila" (Russia, Finland) | 10-15 years old | One of the highest quality, but expensive compounds for the restoration of plumbing. It is quite simple to work with the solution, but it will be possible to use the bath as directed in at least a week. | |
| Company "Random House", Russia | 6-8 years old | Bathtub restoration kits containing a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation |
reaflex 50
Step-by-step instructions for enamel bath restoration
Stage one. Preparation of improvised means and materials
To enamel the baths, you will need the following tools:
The enamel that will be used to restore the bath must come with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (if not prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect the mouth and nose with a respirator, hands with gloves, and all work should be carried out only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.
Stage two. Preparation for application of enamel coating
Before proceeding with enameling the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depends on this.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Sprinkle the bathtub with an abrasive product and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use the grinding attachment of an electric drill, or remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid diluted with water in a 1 to 4 ratio. | |
| Treat areas with rust stains with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well with emery. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use an automobile putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out to be uneven | |
| Remove the remnants of the old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth | |
| Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure there are no crumbs, lint or debris left on the bathtub |
The preparation of the bath must be carried out in exactly this sequence, without skipping a single stage, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. The most clean, smooth surface of the bathtub is a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.
Stage three. Enamel coating
Combine all the components of the enamel as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the base coat and the top coat. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without drops. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually working downward. The composition must be very well smeared so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you should not wait for complete drying, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be ruined. Then apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (they are even with experienced craftsmen), wielding a brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.
Sometimes containers with a spray bottle are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, since bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, which will cause the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray gun, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition along the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.
It is better not to use the bath for a week - that is how much is needed for the enamel to completely harden. The room temperature should be kept at 23 degrees.
Video - enamel bath restoration
Method number 2. Bulk bath
This method of restoring plumbing is as follows: liquid acrylic is poured into a bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to the surface enamelling described above, it has a number of advantages.
- Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, due to which it lies on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all defects and irregularities in the bath.
- The composition does not leave streaks, streaks and bubbles on the surface.
- Bathtub restoration does not require removing the tiles or dismantling the bowl.
- The process takes less time than enamel or inlay restoration.
- Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
- Application of the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
- Most of the materials used to restore bathtubs have practically no unpleasant odor.
The result of this method of restoration will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As in the case of bath enameling, before starting work, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy, nor for any other purpose, ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, cannot be used for the restoration of bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing, so you can completely ruin the bath and harm your health. The choice in this case is made between glass and liquid bulk acrylic.
Stacked or liquid acrylic?
Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: glass and bulk acrylic (the market leader in the production of such materials is Plastall, therefore liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in reality they are not.
Stakril appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already managed to prove itself well. It fits well on any surface and is cheaper than plastol, however, restoration of bathtubs with its help can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quickly enough. It is much easier to work with plastol, since it is less whimsical in operation and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.
Plastall offers consumers who want to refurbish a bathtub on their own a whole range of materials.
| Name | Curing time | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|
| "Plastol" classic | 36-48 hours | An easy-to-use material that spreads well, has increased plasticity and good adhesion. It does not have a pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-24" | 24 hours | A new material based on an improved classic formula. It is applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or exfoliate, it is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion |
| "Plastol-M" | 36-48 hours | A budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of using the material does not differ from the restoration of bathtubs using more expensive products. Does not have a pungent smell, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-Super" | 16 hours | The fastest liquid acrylic that hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles or streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is "potable" for only 45 minutes |
When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot be cheaper than indicated on the manufacturer's website, and fakes do not provide the required quality of the finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in bathroom restoration, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a margin so that it will be enough for the entire surface.
Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of baths with bulk acrylic
Stage one. Preparation for pouring acrylic
Surface preparation for restoration practically does not differ from the preparatory stage for enameling a bath. It is necessary to clean off the old coating and grind the bowl so that its surface becomes dull, warm up and dry. After that, you need to disconnect the siphon intended for draining water, and substitute a container under the bathtub into which excess acrylic will drain (material should be avoided into the sewer system - this can lead to serious problems with water drainage).
Stage two. Filling the bath with acrylic
Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour into a convenient container and put a rubber spatula next to it. If you need a material of a specific color, you can use a tinting paste, but first make sure that this is approved by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.
Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition onto the sides of the bowl in a thin stream, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. You do not need to pour too fast and hard - you need to act so that a layer 4-6 mm thick is obtained, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.
Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle is closed.
Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath, do the same to cover the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or irregularities - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for the complete curing of acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bathroom for three days.
Throughout the entire period, while the material dries, it is better not to touch the bath or even approach it, since the smallest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing.
Video - Instructions for the restoration of baths with Stakril
Method number 3. Restoration with insert
Bathtub restoration with acrylic inserts is also called the "bath in bath" method. The insert is a construction made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which is an exact replica of the bowl. You can buy it in a specialized store, after having made all the necessary measurements of the bath, and then glue it to the old bowl.
The most popular today are acrylic inserts - they are much more aesthetically pleasing and stronger than plastic or silicone. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the earbuds perfectly retains heat, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time it does not slip at all.
This is the safest way to restore a bathtub (the lifespan of a high-quality acrylic liner is about 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce the interior space of the bathroom.
However, this method of bath restoration also has its drawbacks.
- Difficulty in installation. Installation of an acrylic liner is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. The insert is placed so that it covers the edges of the bath, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tiles.
- Possibility of water ingress between two baths. If the installation was not performed correctly, or due to wear or the use of substandard materials, water can enter between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and unpleasant odors.
- Inconvenience during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners that are too thin, because of which they can sag underfoot and eventually deform or burst.
- Liners are made for standard baths only. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has non-standard dimensions or shape, it will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to choose an insert.
- Quite high cost. Liners are inexpensive compared to newer acrylic bathtubs, but a new steel bathtub can be bought for that price.
How to choose a liner?
In order not to be mistaken when buying an insert, you need to take the following measurements:
- the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and the measurement should be made on both sides;
- length along the inner and outer surfaces;
- the depth of the bowl at the drain.
In order not to make a mistake that will entail trouble and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.
How to choose a bath liner
It should be noted that in most modern stores they sell products with a thickness of 3, and sometimes 2 mm - such inserts are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for bathtub restoration. In the best case, the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.
Step-by-step instructions for bathtub restoration with insert
Stage one. Bath preparation and improvised means
For the installation of acrylic inserts, polyurethane foam and silicone sealant are used. It should be noted that for the performance of work, only means specially designed for these purposes should be used. Simple foam, which is used in repair work, will not work in this case - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - this is the material used for mounting acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a plumbing sealant is used, which is waterproof and mold resistant.
Bath preparation for inlay restoration- a rather long and laborious process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is better to be entrusted to specialists.
Stage two. Liner installation
The basic rule to remember when installing the acrylic liner is that all the work should be done quickly enough (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive will harden and poorly "grab" the materials.
| Step, no. | Description |
|---|---|
| Apply polyurethane foam to the bottom and sides of the bath. Its amount also depends on the tightness of the structure, but usually it is applied in strips with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the stripes should be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top. | |
| Install liner | |
| It is good to press down the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with bare feet in the place where the drain is, and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After that, it is good to press down the walls of the structure with your hands. It is not recommended to press on the liner with any hard objects or to hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic even during the installation process |
