Rules and nuances of installing PVC sewer pipes. Important rules and tips for installing sewage from plastic pipes Materials purchased, it's time to install the sewer with your own hands

In this article I will tell you about how and for what reasons replacement of a sewer riser: I will help you figure out the choice of material for a new sewer riser and consider how to properly dismantle the old one and install a new plastic sewer riser.

The new PVC sewer pipe, you see, looks much better)

By and large, the planned replacement of the sewer riser should be carried out by the housing office or HOA, and free of charge, because they are responsible for the riser. But as you know, in the first place, more than one housing office does not replace it as planned, but as practice shows, it drags on the work to the last, and the next replacement of the riser can be done in a few decades. Secondly, the material used for such municipal work leaves much to be desired. At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing complicated about replacing the sewer riser, the main thing is to warn the neighbors in the riser, as when replacing the water supply risers.

However, when replacing a sewer riser, everything is quite difficult. It is necessary to warn in advance all neighbors who live above you in the riser so that during the work being carried out they do not use the sewer. Although it very often happens that especially the old people forget about the request and wash the waste into the sewer, as a result of which this waste, when the riser is dismantled, is dumped directly into the apartment, which is extremely unpleasant.

Replacing the sewer riser must be done if the old riser cracked and became unusable, or if it is necessary to replace or lower the fan tee below.

The choice of material for the sewer riser:

For sewer risers and apartment wiring, the optimal material is polypropylene. For the installation of sun loungers that pass in the basement, or external risers, PVC pipes are most often used, but cast-iron sewer pipes have long been considered not relevant for use in residential buildings.

Under what signs is it necessary to replace the riser:

If cracks or fistulas have formed in the sewer riser, or you need to lower the fan tee lower, then the replacement of the sewer riser is inevitable.

The design of the sewer riser in residential buildings includes fan tees that serve to connect the apartment wiring to the riser, they are the lowest point in the apartment sewage system, therefore, during installation, this tee must be lowered as low as possible for better drainage of the sewer.

How the sewer riser is replaced:

If the cast-iron riser has no cracks and no obvious leaks, then there is no need to replace it, but otherwise, if the riser is rotten and burst, its replacement is necessary.

Necessary parts and material for carrying the robot:

Rubber cuff-adapter from cast iron to plastic pipe;
Polypropylene tee 110/110/110 mm., Or crosspiece 110/110/110/50;
1 or 2 polypropylene pipes 110 mm. pre-measured length;
Plastic expansion joint 110 mm;
Adapter with rubber collar for attaching polypropylene to the upper cast iron pipe;
Clamps for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
2-4 corners 45 ° with a diameter of 110 mm.;
T-piece with revision

Tools with which the riser is replaced:

Dismantling the old riser:

Replacement begins with dismantling the old riser, as it happens:

Above the fan riser, having retreated about a meter, the pipe is cut off with a grinder, but not completely;
Also, the cut under the ceiling is not completely made, retreating 10 centimeters;
A chisel is inserted into the cut slot and, applying light blows with a hammer, an uncut piece of pipe bursts.
The same is done with the upper cut, after the pipes burst and at the top it can be safely removed.

Important: the pipe must burst exactly in the direction of the saw cut, because if you fail to unscrew and remove this piece of pipe, you will have to leave it, and a plastic pipe will be connected to it with the help of a special adapter.

Now we need to unscrew the fan tee from the lower pipe, which is quite difficult:

The tee can be pulled out by wobbling, after carefully opening the connection with the pipe;
If the tee does not give in, it is cut with a grinder without touching the lower pipe.

Important: when disassembling the tee, do not damage the down pipe coupling in any way.

After dismantling the fan tee, thoroughly clean the socket from the seal residues.

Installation of a new riser:

The installation of a new sewer riser is as follows:

A special rubber cuff is put on the cast-iron pipe coming out of the ceiling, after which this cuff is coated with sealants and a plastic adapter is put on it.
Another collar is installed in the pipe coming out of the floor.
Then the required length of the new pipe is measured:
The plastic pipe is inserted into the adapter put on the upper cast iron pipe;
The pipe is cut about 5 cm above the pipe with an expansion joint;
All the details are connected together.
The plastic riser is fixed to the adjacent wall with clamps, for rigidity and in order to prevent it from moving downward.
All connections are pre-coated with sealant

In the process of repairing the sewage system, it becomes necessary to remove part of the elements of the spillway system. To do this, you need to disconnect the PVC pipes without damaging the product. This material is quite fragile, therefore, the dismantling operation is carried out without the use of super-efforts.
Defective area identification
The need to repair PVC pipes for external sewage systems arises from a number of signs:
there are leaks on pipes or fittings;

there is an unpleasant odor in the room;

liquid does not go well;

a blockage has formed, which cannot be cleaned by known and available methods.

The places of malfunction of the drainage system inside the room are located in the outlet pipes from the plumbing fixtures to the main riser. The latter may be damaged. Outside the premises, in private housing construction, it is an underground highway from the building to the storage device (cesspool, septic tank). For the arrangement of the external drain, PVC sewer pipes (red) are used.
Dismantling of internal sewerage
Discharge pipes from plumbing fixtures have a diameter of 32, 40 or 50 mm. Sewer pipe joints represent the joint of one end of the product into the socket of the other. O-rings and plumbing grease are used for sealing.
The following types of sewer products are used indoors:
polypropylene parts;

PVC products (gray);

polyethylene material.

Dismantling begins with undocking elements of household devices - corrugated hose, cuffs. Disconnecting the sewer parts is quite simple. It is necessary to give the detachable part a rotational-translational movement. That is, turning a few degrees in both directions, pull in the opposite direction from the main structure.
It is not required to make sharp movements - with a certain effort, the dismantled part will smoothly move from its place. Thus, the entire internal structure is disassembled. It is necessary not to forget about the removal of fasteners - clamps.
The situation is more complicated with the separation of the main riser, assembled from polymer parts. If expansion joints were installed in the project and in fact, then dismantling will not create any special problems. But, it should be remembered that the riser is a common property. Therefore, all actions with him are performed with the permission of the management company (ZhEK, ZhEU, ZhREU, etc.). Otherwise, for the consequences that have arisen, the culprit is responsible - the owner of the premises, who started the unauthorized repair.
Dismantling the riser
It is necessary to follow the rules when disconnecting a vertical drain pipe:
management services are notified, a permit for repair work is issued;

riser users living higher on the floor are notified;

repair operations are underway.

The presence of a compensator allows the product to be displaced in one direction or another up to 10 cm. It must be remembered that the vertical structure has a certain mass. Therefore, it needs to be fixed.
The joints are treated with machine oil. Making rotational-translational movements, the part is removed from the general structure. The absence of a compensator forces us to resort to radical methods - to cut the fan pipe.
PVC plastic sewer pipes are processed by most locksmith tools:
a hacksaw with a fine hardened tooth;

a hacksaw for metal;

file;

with a sharp and durable knife and other tools.

Mechanized device - grinder, reciprocating saw.
When carrying out work, it is required to pay attention to the presence of a number of other elements of communications:
pressure water conduit;

electrical cable;

storm runoff.

Sewer pipe connections that have served for 10 or more years can "stick", "grow" to each other. A number of recommendations can help in such cases;
processing of the joint with WD-40 grease;

wrap sandpaper around the pipe; make rotational movements through it, - the hands will not slip, the circular effort will increase;

if the product is scrapped, then it is necessary to make a through hole across the part; by inserting a tube or metal rod, we get a lever;

apply the "barbaric" method of dismantling - cut the pipe into pieces, break it in pieces.

The methods for disconnecting the PVC pipe parts used for the external line device are exactly the same. But, it is necessary to determine the place of damage and carry out earthworks.
How and what methods of pipe undocking is up to the owner of the home or invited specialists. The main thing is to determine the feasibility of this or that method of dismantling faulty parts.

Connecting a washing machine to the sewer, in our time, is a fairly simple and inexpensive business. Any more or less home craftsman can handle connecting the machine to a water seal under the sink, but it happens that the drain must be connected to the riser.
The easiest way to do this is on the top floor of an apartment building, since in this case, there is no need to negotiate with the residents of the building. Otherwise, you will have to bypass all the tenants living above and ask them not to use the sewer during the work.
Let's analyze the plum inset in more detail using an example.
Typically, the riser has a diameter of 110 mm. In the example below, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, it is in two parts and is located on the top floor. Therefore, when you make your tie-in, you should take into account the design features of your particular riser. This concerns the diameter and possibly additional details not described in the example.

For tapping, you will need the following tools and parts: a hacksaw for metal, a utility knife, a tee with a branch diameter of 50 mm and an angle of 45 degrees, an expansion pipe and a cuff for inserting the drain hose of the washing machine.

First, preparatory work is carried out. A rubber O-ring is removed from the branch of the tee and a sleeve is inserted instead.

Further, the tee and the expansion pipe are assembled together.

The assembled parts are applied to the place of the tie-in, so that the lower edge of the tee lies at the level of the beginning of the pipe expansion. The length of the section to be cut is marked on the riser. On the expansion pipe, in this case, there are marks by which you can easily measure the cut-out section of the riser (at the top mark on the expansion pipe).

After the preparatory work, you need to agree with the tenants living above you so that they do not use the sewage system during the work.
Directly, work on the drain connection should be carried out as quickly as possible, because you are not insured against the fact that someone living above the residents forgets about the agreement with you and flushes the water down the drain.
Next, cut off the marked section of the riser.

Remove the shavings and chamfer the outside of the pipe with a utility knife.

Insert a tee into the down pipe of the riser. Insert the top of the riser into the tee. Install the expansion joint by bringing all the pipes together. Pipes must be inserted into each other all the way down, so that over time they do not move down under their own weight or as a result of mechanical stress.
TIP: Moisten the pipe ends with water - this will make it easier to assemble the pipes together.
The cottage has been erected or renovated, it remains to build a waste water drainage system, a water supply. Call the plumbing master, not everyone can be trusted. Make yourself the installation of the sewage system from plastic pipes, water supply, enjoy the work done, save money.

To independently carry out plumbing work, it is scary without experience. You need to know the rules and tricks to build a working structure. It will be useful for home craftsmen to learn about the stages of work, where to pay attention.

We proceed to the installation of sewage from plastic pipes
Ready-made sewerage from plastic pipes
The choice of polymeric materials is justified. They have a number of advantages:

do not rust, resistant to chemical attack;

have a smooth inner surface, which improves drainage;

lungs;

it is convenient to work with them using the tools available to each master;

affordable price.

The internal sewage system removes all wastewater outside the boundaries of the house or apartment, and the external one sends it to the collection or treatment site. The industry produces several types of plastic sewer pipes:

internal sewerage - polypropylene;

outer - unplasticized PVC;

risers, external sewerage - polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

In addition to knowing the nuances of installing the sewer system, you must be guided by the recommendations that are spelled out by SNiP 2.04.01-85, this will avoid gross errors.

The assembled structure must be checked at maximum load, while the joints are inspected.

Seven times measure cut once!
Sewerage installation in an apartment, private house, begins with an internal system. The procedure is the same:

multi-storey building: a scheme is drawn up similar to the old one, if redevelopment was not conceived;

cottage: it is determined where the plumbing will be located, a plan is drawn up. The fun conclusion is necessarily taken into account, it reduces pressure, removes unpleasant odors. Several risers are combined horizontally together with a fan outlet;

The new sewerage layout has been drawn up. Calculated: lengths, diameters of the required pipes. The number of connecting, transitional, fasteners, cuffs. Each device requires a siphon that will prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. To prevent fecal water from entering the sewer system, the toilet is installed first to the riser. Be sure to place an inspection hatch for cleaning or checking. For the scheme, consult a specialist.

Plan the length of the sewer pipes so that there is less to cut. It is best to go to the place where the purchase of component parts will take place, to find out the nomenclature.

Materials purchased, it's time to install the sewer with your own hands
An example of a properly built sewage system in an apartment
Sewerage device - gravity. From the farthest drain point, a line is laid to the riser, associated drain will be connected to it. Subtleties:

The basic rule for laying sewer pipes is a slope, usually 1 cm per 1 m, the exact calculation depends on the diameter. The highest point is at the farthest source. Marking is done, fasteners are installed. If the angle is made larger, the water will pass very quickly, the dirt will remain, less - the dirt will have time to settle on the pipe walls. The result is the same - a blockage.

Choose the correct diameters for each element of the sewage system: toilet bowl - 110 mm, bathtubs, sinks - 50 mm, the rest - 32 mm. It seemed best to use the same cross-sections, but if you take less than you need - there will be excessive pressure, more - lack of water - blockage.

Changing the direction of the sewer line is made with 45o fittings. Use 2 fittings to make a right angle turn.

It is easy to connect the factory sewer pipes to each other - they are prepared. If you cut them off (with any convenient tool), then the ends are cleaned with a knife, polished, and connected with a bell directed towards the drain.

All rubber gaskets must be soft, of the correct shape, without flaws, they are replaced if they do not meet these requirements. If the elements are difficult to assemble, a special lubricant with the addition of silicone is used. If this condition is neglected, a leak may occur, which will have to be covered with a sealant from above.

Fasteners are placed 1 fastener per 1 m of the line, at the joints.

In a private house, a connection to an external sewage system is required. In a multi-storey one, it remains to connect the assembled structure to the riser.

The outlet of the plastic sewer from the cottage is protected with a galvanized sleeve, protecting it from external damage.

For external sewage, a section of 110 mm is used. Corrugation has great strength. In the ground, the main line should be below the level of soil freezing - this is 1.5 - 2 m. It is sprinkled with a pillow of a mixture of sand and clay, reducing damage. If it is impossible to lay so deep, it is insulated with mineral wool.

Rules for installing plastic pipes for water supply
Plumbing from plastic pipes
After connecting the sewerage, water supply is supplied.

A diagram of the connection of all elements is drawn. For hot water supply, a technological gap of 10 mm is left, since the plastic expands from heating. After that, the total length of the line, the necessary fittings, is calculated. The number of locking and fastening elements. For the subsequent addition of new devices, it is recommended to leave several taps with plugs.

When planning a water supply system, it is important to know that plastic pipes are made in gray. Their marking:

PN10 - cold water;

PN16 - hot and cold;

PN20 - hot water with heating;

PN25 - heating.

Where the water temperature is below 60 °, the first two points will do. If the temperature is higher, then the third, fourth options are used, since they are reinforced.

To save time, to ensure control over the condition of the water supply system, it is better to use an open connection diagram. The pipes are installed at floor level, in the corners of the premises. A typical option, it is the simplest one - a consistent supply of water to all consumers. To carry out repairs without turning off everyone, a shut-off valve is installed in front of each.

Step-by-step instructions for soldering plastic pipes
The parts were purchased, the tool was prepared, and it became possible to decide how to mount the water supply system. According to the scheme, sections of the pipe are cut with special scissors. They are connected using fittings or. The technology is simple:

cleaning, degreasing of the ends is performed;

nozzles of the required diameter for the soldering iron are selected, it is heated;

insert the elements to be connected, wait a certain time (determined by the cross-section of the products);

after welding, fix the parts until they cool completely.

Structural elements are fixed to the wall with clips. Risers - with a clamp and a rubber gasket.

Additional elements, such as valves, meters have a threaded metal connection, it is sealed with tow. Professional plumbers prefer to use a PTFE seal.

With a little experimentation, any home craftsman will connect a water supply system with his own hands, which will function like a clock.

Installation features

The structure of plastic water pipes
This is a relatively new device. Combines the properties of metal and polymer pipes. Reminds of a layer cake: polyethylene, glue, aluminum, glue, polyethylene. The performance characteristics are excellent: at a pressure of 9.8 atmospheres, they can withstand temperatures of 95 °. With short-term overheating up to 130 °. They are frost-resistant, easily keep the given shape, bend even by hand.

They are used in systems for transporting liquids, gases, heating systems, air conditioning, for underfloor heating. The connection diagram is similar to polypropylene pipes. But since they are more susceptible to mechanical damage, exposure to UV rays, they are laid inside special boxes, walls, floors.

For connection, special fittings are produced:

detachable;

compression (under the clamp);

press fittings (for press tongs).

Installation does not require expensive equipment or special education. When assembling a water supply system with your own hands, be aware that the last connection is one-piece, it can be "packed" inside the floor or wall. The first two are in special boxes for access in case of an emergency.

Installation of plastic pipes for heating

Illustrative installation diagram with description
The main problem that a home craftsman solves when installing a new heating system is connecting plastic pipes to metal pipes. Industry responds:

section up to 40 mm, threaded joint fittings are available;

from 40 to 300 mm - flanged.

The operating instructions are similar to the connection of polypropylene pipes.

Replacing cast iron sewer pipes with plastic

In the houses of the old buildings, cast-iron pipes were used in the bathroom and toilet. I would like to replace them with a modern counterpart. Cope easily, the main thing is to agree with the neighbors in the riser so that there are no incidents. Let's get started:

Saw out the old riser: leave 10 cm from the top, 40 cm from the bottom. To make it easier, they make several cuts with a small jumper, then knock out with a sledgehammer. The main thing is not to damage the rest.

The joints with plastic are cleaned.

The mountings for the new riser are being prepared.

The plastic is installed with the sockets up, you need to start work from the bottom.

After preliminary fitting, the plastic is installed and secured with clamps with rubber gaskets.

Now you know how the wiring is done, the installation of sewage systems, heating, water supply with modern materials. And also that the home master can do everything.

Video on replacing a cast-iron sewage system with a plastic one

Reading 6 min.
Installation of sewage from plastic pipes is carried out in private and apartment buildings, office buildings, equipped with a water supply. Wastewater drainage systems are divided into local and centralized. In one room, the wiring consists of blocks, each of which consists of 3 lines - from the toilet, bath and kitchen sink. When arranging the highway, parts of various lengths, diameters and configurations are used. Consider what nuances should be considered when designing and assembling a pipeline with your own hands.
Principles of installing sewage from plastic pipes
The choice of materials for sewage
When planning the laying of new communications for drainage, it is necessary to pay special attention to the choice of high-quality material, fixtures and accessories. It is recommended to purchase goods from a trusted supplier who has a certificate for their products. Better to buy products from one manufacturer. This will avoid difficulties in fitting and joining parts.
The basis for calculations is a diagram on which the following data are displayed:
riser;
inspection hatch;
tee;
horizontal runs;
corners;
water locks (siphons);
adapter;
bends;
consumers of water.

It is advisable to purchase the material by 10-15% more than the calculated one. In any work, marriage and mistakes are possible. In addition to plastic products, you need to buy a silicone-based lubricant. It is best suited for connecting line fragments and ensuring its tightness.
Why are plastic pipes better?
When choosing a material for arranging a sewage system, most craftsmen are inclined in favor of using polymer plastic pipes. This decision is based on many positive characteristics inherent in this product of the petrochemical industry.
Arrangement of PVC pipelines has the following advantages:
Affordable cost. It is an order of magnitude lower than that of metal structures.
A light weight. Plastic piping does not place additional stress on walls and floor slabs.
Ease of assembly. No expensive equipment is required to connect the parts.
Resistant to corrosion, mildew and mildew.
Long service life. It is at least 50 years old.
Presentable appearance. The products fit well into any interior.
Elasticity. Pipelines do not break under vertical and horizontal loads.

Polymer communications do not need regular maintenance and repair.
Preparatory work
To lay a pipeline for draining wastewater, you will need special equipment for laying a channel of the desired configuration in floors, walls and furniture.
It is necessary to use the following tools and devices:
oil or diamond level;
perforator with a set of drills, percussion nozzles and a diamond crown;
roulette;
hammer;
chisel
marker;
Silicone Grease.

Preparation for the installation of the sewage system begins with drawing a horizontal line from the entrance of the tee into the riser to all water consumers. After that, marks are applied every 50 cm corresponding to the required slope. In order not to be mistaken, during assembly, props are placed on which the pipes will be laid. Holes are drilled in the walls, into which clamps are installed with the diameter corresponding to the pipes. In the end, holes are drilled, the bed is cleaned and debris is removed.
Features of internal wiring
Features of the arrangement of the sewage system are that the basis of the functioning of the home sewage system is the force of gravity. Waste products move along the channels by gravity under the influence of gravity. In order for the wastewater from the water consumer to enter the riser, all lines must have a slope of 1-1.5%. So, with a line length of 200 cm, the height difference between the bend and the exit of the pipe to the common drain should be 2-3 cm.Another 1 cm is added for each turn.If these rules are not followed, the line will be constantly clogged with waste.
The next nuance is the selection of the correct cross-sectional size and line configuration.
You should choose plastic sewer pipes of this diameter:
riser, tee, branch and corrugation from the toilet bowl - at least 100 mm;
the pipeline from the bathtub, washbasin and kitchen sink - 50 mm;
drain from washing machines and dishwashers - 32 mm.

Since the largest waste comes from the toilet, the distance from it to the riser should be minimal. If for laying pipes it is necessary to change their direction, then it is better to do this with the help of bends at 45 °, since sharp turns can be clogged.
Fitting workpieces to dimensions
A feature of products made of polymer material is the change in their size under the influence of temperature. So, with its increase by 1 °, the link length increases by 0.5%. This must be taken into account when carrying out calculations, so as not to set turns close to the walls. You should always leave 1 to 2 cm of reserve for the damping expansion of the links. Slight curvature does not affect strength and tightness.
When cutting blanks, it is necessary to check that the pipe diameter corresponds to this indicator of the fittings used when laying communications. Technical indicators are printed on the products themselves, but it is better to check them in advance, even before assembly. It should be remembered that the tightness of the connection and the tightness are achieved through the use of gaskets. The difference between the inner and outer diameters of the links to be connected is 2 mm. The slight backlash allows you to compensate for minor errors in design, marking and assembly.
Bell joint
Consider the features of connecting plastic pipes. They are performed using sockets, inside of which are rubber gaskets, rings and cuffs. The best in terms of durability are double gaskets with a plastic ring. They are difficult to assemble, but the efforts made are paid off by the reliability and durability of the joint. Before joining the parts, you must make sure that the elastic is of the correct shape, fits snugly in the groove of the bell and is not skewed. If the product is defective or was damaged during assembly, then it should be replaced with a serviceable part.
The anchorage points are the weakest points of the pipeline. Over time, the cushioning material shrinks and shrinks. To slow down this process, it is necessary to use a good quality lubricant with a preservative effect. Soaps and car oils are not suitable for this. These substances are corrosive to rubber. Professionals recommend using a silicone lubricant.
The edges of the sawn-off pipe must be trimmed to obtain a chamfer. After the segment is inserted into the socket, it must be pushed forward until it stops and fed back by 10-15 mm.
How to make a montage?
In a private house, you can make several risers, connecting them in one line or leading them to different septic tanks with separate highways. The main condition is compliance with environmental safety rules.
When installing sewer pipes with your own hands, it is recommended to follow these rules:
use a hacksaw for metal to cut workpieces;
insert pipes into sockets without distortions perpendicular to their cuts;
carry out the assembly of the drainage system in the direction from the tee to the sources of water consumption;
control the level of each stage of the assembly;
do not fill the line with concrete, it is better to close it with plastic, which is easy to remove;
remember to lubricate the joints and leave a damping gap.

Subject to the rules for calculations, marking and assembly, the sewer system will last no less than the structure itself.