Do-it-yourself front panel for a bath. Bath screen - stylish and effective solution

After completing all renovation work in the bathroom, you will probably need to hide the communication pipes under the bathroom that are unsightly in appearance and spoil the entire interior. A great way and all the ugly corners is to make a screen under the bath from plastic panels with your own hands.

By making it more functional, for example, by installing various shelves in the formed free space, you can easily hide all household and household stuff from prying eyes - brushes, powders, gels.

Types of screens for a bathtub made of plastic panels

Depending on the design, screens are made solid or sliding. Everyone is able to solve some of their operational problems.

Sliding bath screen

The simplest and most common solution for a bath will be a solid screen (pictured). It is easiest to make it with your own hands. However, the disadvantage of this design is that it tightly closes the entire space under the bathroom, including the water supply and sewerage pipes. If there is a need for repair or, then this screen will have to be disassembled.

Important! The solid screen assumes the use of plastic plumbing pipes that will not rust. Before installing it, check the health of all plumbing and the absence of mold and mildew on the wall surfaces.

A sliding screen is somewhat more practical than a solid one, but its appearance is less aesthetic. Making a sliding screen yourself is a little more difficult, but the result is worth it. In addition, niches for things can be attached in the space between the outer wall of the bath and the plastic panels. Shelves installed vertically on gas lifts are very convenient.

Solid screen under the bathtub

Bath screens

Before you start making a screen for a bath, you need to decide on its future shape.

So, there are three types of bath screens:

a blank wall - this type of screen completely covers the entire space under the bathroom, without assuming any recesses for convenience or niches for things. When installing it, you should carefully double-check the serviceability of all plumbing and pipes, since then this will be problematic. Typically, these types of screens involve a small door to check the status of the plumbing.

Blank screen

assuming a recess for the legs - this type of screen is more convenient to use. The notch will help you get close to the bathtub without experiencing any discomfort when washing the bath itself or bathing children in it.

Bath screen with foot recess

the screen with an inclined angle, as in the previous case, is also quite convenient to use and is created purely for the comfort of using the bathroom.

Bath screen with inclined angle

curvilinear or corner screen necessary for owners of rounded bathtubs. It is impossible to buy it ready-made in the store. Such a screen is made only by hand.

Curved bath screen

Making a frame for a bath screen

So, you have chosen the shape and type of the screen you need, the next step is to make a frame for the subsequent installation of plastic panels. To implement this work, you will need the following details: a starter strip (usually the same color as the screen), a profile, dowels, glue "liquid nails" and, in fact, the plastic panels themselves. Installation of the frame involves the use of such tools: a clerical or construction knife, an electric screwdriver, a building level, a puncher, a square and a stapler.

Marking

The first thing to do is to mark the future supporting structure on the surface of the floor and walls. Using a spirit level, draw a line vertically where the screen will abut against the surface of the walls. Consider the top edge of the tub as your starting point. From the resulting side lines to the side parallel to the location of your bath, draw another line equal to the thickness of the prepared plastic panels. For the convenience of installing the structure, it is necessary to lay appropriate marks from the wall lines along the entire length of the floor surface along the length of the bath.

Frame installation

This is followed by the assembly of the front and side frame elements. To do this, measure and cut the beams or profile to the required length, dock them along the marks and secure. To make the frame more rigid and durable, make an additional one or two transverse fasteners from the profile. In the case when the frame is made of wooden beams, screws and self-tapping screws can be used as fasteners. For the profile, specialized fasteners are used.

Attention! Fasten the profile to the floor very carefully, without using special force, so as not to damage the tiles.

When installing the frame, you should also provide a place for the viewing window (if you plan to make one). For it, it is necessary to make additional jumpers in the established place of the vertical shape: awnings will be fixed on the right side, and furniture magnets on the left.

Frame sliding screen with vertical shelves suggests additional fasteners on which gas lifts are installed.

Curved frame for a screen under a bathtub

To model a curved screen frame on a floor surface building level make markings that accurately repeat the bends of the bath itself. A profile is laid according to the markings applied - in places of bending along the lateral edge, cuts are made on it with a length of 10 cm. After that, a hole is punched in the profile and along the marked line it is fastened with dowels and screws to the floor surface. The upper profile is glued with glue.

Assembling the screen from plastic panels

Technologically, the assembly of the screen from plastic is sufficient simple task and is as follows. First, a starting strip is attached to the perimeter of the installed supporting frame with self-tapping screws. In places where the product will adjoin vertical and horizontal elements, a cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, strips are cut from plastic and inserted into the grooves of the prepared starting strip until the screen is completely filled. Plastic panels of the sliding screen are installed between the guides and with outside stick the handles. Corner joints are closed with plastic corners.

Sliding plastic panel

At the end of the installation, an inspection door (usually on the side of the drain siphon) should be installed on the fixed lintels. Such plastic doors can be bought at any hardware store or made yourself from the remaining panels. For additional protection against moisture penetration into the screen, the gaps between the floor surface and the frame fasteners are filled with a special neutral-colored sealant.

Installation of panels on a curved screen is somewhat different, because it is also necessary to take into account the bending angle.

Attention! Too wide plastic panels are not suitable for making a curved screen, since it is impossible to bend them at home. Panels up to 250 mm wide are ideal.

To properly organize the space under the bathroom, special containers with many different shelves for storing, for example, household chemicals and many little things for the bathroom, will help. It is much more convenient and pleasant to store household items in them. Such containers are even produced on wheels, which makes it easier to move them under the bathtub.

Convenient shelves can be made under the bathroom for storing various household items.

A sliding bath screen is often equipped with stationary shelves, which also store brushes, sponges, all household chemicals and bath accessories.

How to make a plastic screen for a bath with your own hands: video

Plastic screen under the bath: photo

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You can also finish using ceramic tiles. But you will need to pre-sheathe the frame with moisture-resistant plasterboard. But, first things first: so, the first finish option.

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Method number 1: plastic sheathing of the screen

First of all, you will need to cut the plastic panels to the size of the prepared frame. If they are short, then you can mount them vertically in 2 pieces. They can be adjusted to the required dimensions using a mounting knife. But be sure to make preliminary markings on them in order to exclude the appearance of a curved cut. Then you need to start fixing them on plastic screws. But do not forget to leave a place under the hatch during this. Measure its parameters and make a mark on the frame. In the future, it will need to be installed to such a depth so that it is in the same plane as the screen. The hatch is fixed on metal frame... It will need to be fastened with self-tapping screws. Then you will need to install the hatch itself and fix its door first with wedges. Then self-tapping screws for metal are taken, and with them it is attached with their own hands through the frame to the frame of the screen.

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Method number 2: finishing with tiles

If you decide to make a ceramic tile screen in the bathroom, then the course of work will be slightly different. First of all, it will be necessary to install the hatch according to the above scheme. Then it is mounted on a drywall frame. It must be distinguished by high moisture resistance. This material is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to screw in these fasteners at right angles, this is done using a screwdriver.

In the next step, you can start installing the tiles. Special glue should be used here. It is easy to use and allows for hassle-free finishing. You need to apply glue to ceramic tiles with a spatula. It should be done with a uniform layer. Then the finishing material is glued to the drywall. When the installation of the tiles is completely completed, you will need to grout the joints.

In order to hide all communications, pipes and drains that are under the bathroom, a special screen is installed. It mainly carries an aesthetic load so that the appearance of the lower part of the bath does not spoil the design of the bathroom. Some modern bathtubs are already supplied with screens that fit perfectly on outward appearance and functionality, but not all. In order not to spend money on buying a ready-made and not very cheap screen, you can think about how to make a screen for a bath with your own hands. This not only allows you to significantly save money, but also to perform the installation of the screen, which will fully meet the tastes and preferences of the owners, in addition, you can provide the screen with several useful functions.

What to make a bath screen?

There are a myriad of building materials that can be used in a humid bathroom environment. So the following options can be distinguished, based mainly on the material that will form the basis of the screen:

Brick laying of the screen;
Sheathing with moisture-resistant plasterboard with subsequent finishing with any suitable material(tiles, plaster, wallpaper, etc.)
Sheathing with moisture resistant MDF, OSB with subsequent finishing;
Plastic sheathing.
Purchase of a ready-made screen or a set of sliding doors.

In addition to the store solution, only plastic sheathing actually allows you to form a screen without the need for further finishing. This material is quite acceptable and practical, not affected by moisture and biologically neutral. Easy to clean and strong enough, even if one or more strips of plastic are damaged, it is easy to replace. Still, for a durable structure, or if the plastic just doesn't fit into the interior of the bathtub, you should choose one of the remaining three options.

In any case, the screen on the bath, from whatever it is assembled, must meet several requirements:

For access to the main sewerage units and laid communications, a technological opening must remain, which can be closed with a door or a plug;
It is advisable to hermetically seal the space near the floor to separate the floor under the bathroom and the rest of the bathroom;
The screen is not a supporting structure and the bathtub should not rest on it.

For convenience, a small notch is formed in the screen, most often with a slope so that it does not interfere with the legs. Some masters, if there is free space under the bathroom or to the side of it, mount an additional cabinet or drawer for household chemicals as part of the screen, or detergents.

Laying brick screen

In this version, everything is simple. A half-brick-thick brick wall is erected along the border of the bath or from wall to wall, near which the bath stands. Mandatory, as with construction an ordinary wall, the brick is altered, that is, each next row is shifted by half a brick. A window is formed in a place convenient for access to the bath drain. In order to cover it, it is enough to buy or make a door and attach it to the awnings.

Although the brick wall is strong enough, it is still not worth supporting the bathtub on it, so there should be a gap of about 1-2 cm between the last row of bricks and the edge of the bathtub, which is blown out by polyurethane foam. After that, you can sheathe the brickwork with ceramic tiles or any other suitable material that will match the design of the room.

If you liked this option, but you don’t know how to lay a brick, read about the basics of working with it.

Plasterboard sheathing

The most flexible method in terms of forming the shape of the screen. Everything depends only on the desire of the owner. The installation of the screen under the bath begins with the formation of the frame. For this, you can use both a metal profile and wooden bar 40x40 mm. A tree is required and protection from moisture, otherwise rot and fungus will inevitably appear.

When installing the frame, it is taken into account that the front material will also be sheathed over the drywall. So along the wall, to which the side of the bath adjoins, a line is marked for installing the edge of the profile so that it is deepened from the edge of the bath to the thickness of the subsequent cladding. For example, if it is supposed to cover the screen with tiles, then an indent of 12.6 mm + 5 mm + 4-6 mm (tile thickness) = 21.6-23.6 mm is made. The line must continue along the floor along the entire length over which the screen will extend. In this case, a plumb line is used to correct relative to the edge of the bath.

The UD profile is fixed along the perimeter of the resulting line. The profile that is attached to the floor must additionally be glued with a sealant to avoid water getting under and out of the bathtub. Next, the CD profile is installed vertically with attachment to the support profile. The distance between the profiles is maintained 600 mm, and additionally racks are installed in the place where there will be a technological hole or a recess for the installation of a drawer or cabinet.

In the center of the tub, you can form a foot ledge. For this, the profile on the floor is not installed in a straight line, but in the form of a letter P with a recess for the bath by about 10-15 cm. The racks in the niche will be installed at an angle.

Example of a tiled plasterboard screen with a ledge

For cladding, a moisture-resistant green gypsum board is used. It is cut to the appropriate length, equal to the height of the screen minus 2 cm. It is fastened with hardened black self-tapping screws every 15 cm along the perimeter of the sheet and in the center along the profile. In this case, it is important to choose the correct length of self-tapping screws, so as not to accidentally screw the upper screws into the acrylic bath. The sheets are fixed with indents from the floor and the edge of the bath by 1 cm. This is necessary to prevent swelling of the drywall. After all, although it is moisture resistant, however, from direct contact with water it will still begin to collapse.

When the sheathing is finished, the drywall is primed and sheathed with any suitable material such as ceramic tiles. decorative plaster, moisture-resistant wet wallpaper, film materials, etc.

Video: an example of installing a fixed screen under a plasterboard bathroom

Sheathing MDF, OSB

The whole process is virtually identical to plasterboarding. The only difference is that additional ventilation slots should be made in the screen on the opposite side of the technological hole. To do this, it is enough to make a slot only 2-3 cm wide and 5-10 cm long, which can be covered with a neat plastic grill. MDF sheets must be primed on both sides even before they are fixed to the frame.

Plastic lining screen

The simplest option would be to cover the bathtub with plastic clapboard. In this version, a beautiful finishing surface is immediately obtained and is not required additional processing or sheathing. If necessary, the screen can be easily disassembled for full access to the space under the bath.

In addition to the lining itself, you will also need a starting profile, which is reinforced around the perimeter of the future screen. From the upper part under the edge of the bathtub, a timber or metal profile is first fixed to the walls, and only then a plastic starting profile. For the reliability and strength of the entire structure, it is also desirable to fix the profiles in the middle of the screen. This is especially important when using cheap options. plastic lining, which even from small mechanical loads can deform and lose its shape. The lower profile, as in the previously described options, is desirable to be glued to the floor using a sealant.

The strips of plastic are cut with an ordinary construction knife and inserted with the edges into the starting profile. This is how the entire surface of the screen is typed. In the place where the technological hole is formed, a rectangle is cut and a special plastic door is inserted, which are sold in the same places as the lining itself.

Since there is an unimaginable variety of plastic lining on sale in color, pattern and even texture, then choose suitable option will not be difficult.

Sliding version of the plastic screen under the bathroom

As for the sliding screen under the bathroom, its creation requires either imagination or a ready-made installation kit from any hardware store. If you don’t have a second, we recommend looking for ways to implement from craftsmen... One of the options is in the video below.

In conclusion

As you can see from the options presented, only the use of plastic makes it possible to assemble the screen for the bath, which can be quickly dismantled and reassembled if necessary. However, other methods make it possible to use significantly large quantity cladding materials so that the screen does not stand out against the background of the overall interior design, especially when there is no plastic in its composition.

In any case, although installing a bath screen with your own hands will take a little more time than installing a ready-made purchase, the result will also be much more acceptable for maintaining a holistic picture of the interior. In addition, a hand-assembled screen will be cheaper and more reliable than most of the ready-made ones that are offered for the installed bath.

Video: step-by-step photo instructions for creating a decorative podium for a bath

The screen under the bath is a structure installed between the edge of the bath and the floor, covering the plumbing communications. It is more aesthetic, so that the appearance of the side edge of the bath does not fall out of the integrity of the bathroom design.

Varieties of screens

There are three main types of bathroom screens:

Sliding;
Fixed removable;
Stationary.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Sliding screens

They are the most functional and comfortable. The frame of this design consists of a fixed base and guides along which the doors move. Thanks to the ease of access, various household items can be stored under the bathtub. Among the disadvantages of a sliding screen, it is worth noting the discrepancy between quality and price - at a high cost, their design is rather flimsy. They are mounted by wedging between the bottom surface of the bathtub and the floor, which is not very reliable, so they often have to be reinstalled.

Fixed removable screens

Fixed removable screen

This type of screen is commonly used in combination with acrylic bathtubs. Its main advantage is its presentable appearance and the ability to manufacture forms of any complexity. Plastic screens under the bathtub are quite difficult to remove, so you can only store absolutely unnecessary things behind them.

Stationary screens

There are no stationary screens as finished products, they are made individually for each case. They can be divided into two types:

With full access to the space under the bathroom;
With partial access - only for service communications.

Doors for fixed screens come in a variety of designs:

Sliding;
Swinging open;
Reclining;
In the form of a hatch;
In the form of an accordion;
Other non-standard solutions.

Screen making materials

Various materials can be used for the construction of the screen:

Metal;
Plasterboard, fiberboard, MDF, OSB;
Glass;
Plastic;
Brick;
Combinations of these materials.

Basic requirements for bathroom screen material:

Moisture resistance;
Practicality;
Durability;
Ease of work;
Resistant to mold and mildew.

Installation of a screen under a plasterboard bath

Important! Before building a screen for a bath, you should carefully inspect the state of plumbing communications and, if necessary, put them in order.

To construct a screen for a bath, you will need the following set of tools:

Drill;
Hand saw;
Jigsaw;
Square, ruler and pencil;
Plumb line;
Level;
Metal corners;
Screws and dowels;
Bars 40x40 mm.

The frame of the screen is made of wooden blocks with a cross section of 40x40 millimeters. They are installed along the edges of the bathtub and mounted to the walls and floor.

For the manufacture of the frame, you can use a metal profile.

The installation of the frame can be divided into two stages:

Preparatory work;
Fastening.

There are several ways to install a bathtub, but the most common is a corner one. It saves space and will be appropriate for any layout.

Using a plumb line, draw vertical lines on the walls that the bathtub touches. Make no effort, they will have to be erased.
Draw parallel lines to them within the contour of the bath, at a distance of 25 mm.
The lines drawn first can now be erased.
Mark the point of the corner of the bathtub on the floor, for this use a plumb line installed on the corner of the bathtub that does not adjoin the walls.
Draw a square with a side of 25 mm, so that the point is its corner, and the shape itself is located inside the contour of the bath. Such an indent is a necessary margin for installing the screen and its cladding.
From the corner of the square inside the bathtub outline, draw lines to the verticals drawn on the walls.
Prepare wooden blocks according to the following parameters:
- For vertical elements: bars whose length is equal to the height from the side to the floor - 4 pcs.
- For horizontal elements:
  - Bars 80 mm long shorter than the width of the bath - 2 pcs.;
  - Bars 120 mm shorter than the length of the bath - 2 pcs.

Fastening a wooden frame

After preparing the building material and carrying out the marking work, you can proceed to the installation of the screen frame under the bath.

First, we install the smaller side of the screen:

Using a corner, from four bars, assemble a short frame;
Drill 2 holes in the frame for fixing it to the wall;
Make similar holes in the wall;
Fix the frame to the wall using dowel connections that match the material it is made of (hollow wall, monolithic wall, wall block or brick).

In order for the structure to have greater rigidity, it is better to additionally screw the frame to the floor.

The installation of the other side is carried out in the same way. Screw both frames together.

Screen

To make the screen, you will need two 16 mm chipboard panels or a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall, the smaller panel of which corresponds to the size of the short frame.

Similar to the installation of the frame, the installation of the screen is carried out in two stages:

Preparatory work;
Anchoring.

Preparatory work for the installation of the screen

The space under the bathroom is rarely pleasing to the eye, because it is here that the pipes of communications, washing powders and other chemicals are located. And in order to streamline this corner of the room, they use a bath screen - a kind of screen that covers the front part and sides to the floor. But in addition to the aesthetic moment, such a device can also perform a protective function, protecting the bath from accidental overturning, or become an additional place for storing various trifles. Modern plumbing is sold already with ready-made screens, but if you did not manage to buy a kit or you want to upgrade your old model, you can do it yourself.

What can be a screen for a bath: varieties of models

For each bath, you can choose the most suitable design, taking into account the size of the free space and the geometry of the model itself. It is also important to understand whether you will only cover or use the space under the bathroom for storage (in the second case, and from which side to make access).

According to the type of construction, there are several types:

1. Deaf - the simplest version of a homemade screen. The bathtub is laid with bricks or plasterboard, and decorated with tiles or mosaics on top. As a result, the structure looks solid and very effectively merges with the finishing of the floor or walls, but the area under the bathroom remains unused. If you decide to install a blank screen under the bathroom, be sure to provide a small door for access to communications, otherwise in case of an emergency you will have to dismantle the structure.

2. Swing - a modified version of a blank screen, which provides 1-2 niches for access to communications and storage of household chemicals. Doors can be removable or hinged (the latter, of course, is more convenient).

3. Folding - the screen is completed with doors on hinges and magnets or latches, which fold back to one side. And if you supplement the model with small shelves and gas lifts, you can conveniently place all kinds of shampoos, gels and cosmetics for hygiene procedures.

4. Sliding - ergonomic design, popular for small spaces... The doors of such a screen move along runners according to the "coupe" principle, opening access to the desired niche.

Also, the screen can be equipped with additional amenities, for example, a recess for the legs, open shelves, drawers, a step, etc.

Screen materials: types and requirements

You can make a do-it-yourself bath screen from almost any building materials, the size of which can be adjusted to fit the parameters of the niche. Of course, the choice largely depends on the type of construction, but the basic requirements for materials are obvious: resistance to water and temperature extremes, ease of cleaning and installation.

Therefore, the most popular for the manufacture of screens:
1. Moisture-resistant drywall - easy to use, but requires additional facing, for example, mosaics.

2. OSB, plywood - they need mandatory impregnation with antiseptics and a protective coating of varnish, paint, PVC film or tiles. From wooden materials, you can find ready-made versions of MDF screens

3. Plastic is a lightweight material, most popular for the manufacture of sliding screens, with a lot of decorative solutions.

4. Brick - gives stability to the structure, but can create additional load on the floor. However, it is the best solution for installing and supporting lightweight acrylic bathtubs that can bend under heavy weight.

5. Acrylic - durable, smooth and effective panels that come with ready-made bathtubs, but for the standard model they can be purchased separately and installed by hand.

Let us consider in more detail several methods of making partitions for a bath from various materials.

Do-it-yourself bath screen made of brick or aerated concrete

Masonry will help to close the space under the bathroom with a strong partition, which can be done even in ½ or 1/4 brick. To make the markup correctly, it is important to take into account not only the thickness of the wall itself, but also to make an allowance for decorative cladding... If it is a ceramic tile, lining or mosaic, feel free to add 2-2.5 cm, taking into account the glue.

Algorithm of work:
1. Designate a place for masonry. To do this, we lower the plumb line from the edge of the bath and beat off a horizontal line. We subtract the thickness of the glue and tiles or other cladding material from this reference point. In order for the screen to look impressive, it must be flush with the sides of the bath, but if the font has a rounded decorative edge, it is better to drown the partition a little deeper - this way there will be no problem with sealing the seams. We lay the first row of bricks according to the markings, fastening them together with cement mortar. The second row is performed with an offset of each stone by ½.

2. If you need to make an open niche for the legs, an opening of 2-3 bricks is left in the middle of the first 2-3 rows of masonry. But before you build such a niche, think about whether it is really necessary? Moisture will constantly penetrate through the hole, and from there it will pull with dampness, and such amenities are hardly vital today, when almost every house has a washing machine. As a last resort, make the hole blind by laying back wall recesses with the same brick.

3. But where exactly the opening is needed is opposite the siphon, in order to open access to the plumbing, if necessary. This hole can be closed with a small swing door or a sheet of plywood decorated to match the bathtub cladding.

4. The top row should be laid so that a gap of 2-3 cm remains between the masonry and the side of the bath. If necessary, the bricks are trimmed with a grinder, and the remaining gap is blown out with polyurethane foam. Then the seams are rubbed, the excess foam is cut off, and the surface of the screen is primed and closed decorative layer tiles, mosaics or other finishing materials.

How to make a do-it-yourself bath screen from plastic panels or drywall

With the help of plasterboard or plastic sheathing, you can make both a blank structure and a sliding or hinged panel under the bathroom. They are mounted in the same way - on the frame. But sliding and folding models are additionally equipped with appropriate fittings. It should be noted that such a screen will mainly perform a decorative function; as a support, its help is practically zero.

For work you will need:
Plastic panels or moisture resistant drywall.
Metal profile or wooden beams impregnated with an antiseptic.
Dowels, screws.
Liquid Nails.
Tools: knife, screwdriver, level, puncher, construction stapler.

Work algorithm:
1. Marking is carried out under the frame using a level / plumb line. The starting point- the upper side of the bathtub, from which the reference lines on the floor and adjacent walls are bounced off (of course, taking into account the thickness of the frame and cladding materials).

2. Then fragments of the required length are cut from the beams or profile and attached to the floor along the markings. Self-tapping screws and glue are used for wood, the profile is mounted using specialized fasteners. Vertical supports are installed every 50-60 cm. The upper part of the frame is fixed to the walls with dowels, and to the side of the bathtub - with liquid nails.

3. Now you can sheathe the screen itself under the bathroom by cutting out panels or sheets of drywall to the desired size. Plastic is attached to liquid nails, drywall - and glue, and screws / self-tapping screws.

Please note that the plastic itself is finishing, but drywall needs to be wiped at the seams and decorated with tiles or other moisture-resistant material. It is also possible to build a sliding screen from the panels, if you install guides on top and bottom of the frame, along which the door will "ride".

But if you are not strong in construction and are looking for an easy-to-use option on how to make a screen for a bath with your own hands, you can simply pull a thick fishing line along the side and beautifully drape the niche and all its contents with a waterproof fabric.

Installing an acrylic bathtub is not the most difficult plumbing operation, but it also has its own nuances. If you purchased a branded product ...

The screen serves as a screen for communications connected to the bathroom. Under it are perfectly hidden legs of a bathtub installed on lining, a drain, sewer outlets, pipes. But besides the functions related to the aesthetics of space, the screen can also do other useful work. For example, serve as a support for the stability of the bath or be a closet for small things.

Acrylic bathtubs and other representatives of the latest generation of plumbing are often immediately equipped with a screen, ideal for hiding dark corners and communications. But what if the bathtub is old and you don't want to see its shabby sides every day? You can purchase a ready-made screen, and if you do not want to spend money on a store option or you need the screen under the bathroom to meet your requirements 100 percent, you can make a screen under the bath with your own hands. Here are several ways to create a screen.

The screen providing access to the bathroom is made with sliding doors or with a built-in cabinet for household chemicals; can have vertically or horizontally opening cavities. It is advisable to equip vertical opening structures according to the jalousie principle or equip them with gas lifts and other fasteners familiar to furniture makers.

Bath screen requirements

Bath screen materials

The materials that you will use in the bathroom should not be afraid of water and moisture, temperature changes. It is also important that they are not subject to rapid decay from mold or mildew.

You can make the base of the screen from almost any building material, and then finish it on the outside to your liking. For cladding, plastic panels or tiles are used.

Homemade screen options:

The fastest way is the blind sheathing of the frame under the bathroom with MDF panels. The strips of plastic or MDF are biologically neutral and practical. These materials are easy to cut and bond together.

After erection, the brick base will need to be sheathed and plastered or glued to tiles. And before installing a wooden frame, the wood must be covered with a special impregnation to protect it from moisture.

The screen is not an obligatory part of the bath, but it can be used to close communications and other unsightly "views" under the bath. In our article, we will look at how you can make this design yourself, because in some non-standard situations it is simply impossible to purchase a screen that is suitable in shape and size.

Why cover the bathtub with a screen?

With modern bathtubs, the set usually immediately comes with screens that are suitable in all respects - the installation of such a structure will not take even an hour. But if it comes about steel or cast iron products, then screens are not provided for them, therefore there are only three options left: buy it, leave the space open, or make a screen for a bath with your own hands.

Whether to use such a screen for the bath or not - the decision must be made by the owner of the apartment, but, most likely, everyone will want to have a beautiful and neat bathroom, because it is the cladding that allows you to give the room a complete and attractive appearance, covering unsightly communication. But aesthetics are not the only reason for installing such a product. So, you can make a screen, additionally equipping it with small containers for storing various containers, jars with household goods, which means you can save a significant amount of space in the room.

In addition, when using a bath without a screen, water may get under it, dirt begins to accumulate - all this will soon lead to dangerous fungus... In addition, the floor in the room wears out faster, losing its attractiveness. It is the installation of the screen that will avoid such problems.

What are the design requirements?

There are various options for arranging such a structure, however, when choosing a material, shape, etc., you should take into account the basic requirements for the screen. First of all, remember that this product is installed for the bathroom, which means that it will be used during wet conditions, the material of manufacture must be moisture resistant, capable of withstanding sharp temperature fluctuations.

If this is not taken into account, then literally in a couple of months a fungus will begin to appear on the material, it will begin to collapse under the influence external factors... It is important to remember about tightness, water should not get into the space under the bathroom itself. But it is also impossible to completely close the air supply - the lack of ventilation will lead to the appearance of mold. That is why it is necessary to provide for doors or windows in the design.

There are some other requirements as well:

When arranging the screen, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of quick access to the main communications.
The product should not interfere with the approach to the bathroom, for which a special recess for the legs can be made in it, which is very important for small rooms.

The first thing you need to do is make a frame to mount the screen. It can be made of bricks, metal profiles, a bar of wood. And brickwork it is better to do it to install the screen from tiles so that it can withstand the weight of the material; in the case of working with plastic panels or sheets of gypsum board, other options can be used. But let's talk about everything in more detail.

Brickwork

This option is rightfully considered the most reliable. Such a base will withstand any material. It is necessary to erect a brick wall from one wall to another, performing laying in half a brick. In this case, you need to make a new row with a slight offset to the side. We make a gap of 2-3 cm between the upper side of the bath and the masonry, and after it dries cement mortar, fill the gap with polyurethane foam. Also, when arranging the masonry, do not forget to make a comfortable notch for the legs.

Wooden lathing

Such a frame will also be quite strong, but the main disadvantage of wood is that it begins to rot when it is in wet conditions for a long time. Therefore, it is better to use cedar, alder or larch to create the frame. To equip the structure, you will need beams with a cross section of 4 * 4 cm. When carrying out work, it is very important to correctly mark the places for installing the structure, by skipping this stage, you will ensure that the frame starts to go to the side.

To get a flat design, make the markup:

1. Draw vertical lines from the corners of the tub (which are adjacent to the walls) to the base using a plumb line.
2. Step back 3 cm and make a second vertical line completely parallel to the first.
3. Draw a vertical line from the free corner of the bathroom and at the point of contact of the line with the base draw a square with sides of 3 cm.
4. From inner corner square, draw horizontal lines to the walls of the bath.

This will be the perimeter along which we will install wooden beams. We attach them to the base with self-tapping screws, after which we mount the vertical posts and fix them to the walls with self-tapping screws. We install a horizontal wooden beam on them and fasten it with a corner. Intermediate boards should be installed at a distance of about 0.5 m from the corner posts. To achieve maximum strength, coat all joints with liquid nails.

Metal carcass

When making such a frame, it is better to use the PN 27 * 28 profile, which is ideal for the further installation of gypsum board, plastic and MDF panels. If you want to make a frame that can withstand the tiles, it is better to use metal profile pipes, however, in this case you will be faced with the need to carry out welding works... We carry out the marking in the same way as for the wooden lathing. We fasten the lower rail to the floor with dowels, install the side posts on them, fixing them to the walls.

To give the structure strength, make a plank in the middle of the height. We fix the upper profile on the side supports, and to strengthen the upper guide, fold the two profiles together and fasten them together. It remains to mount the vertical racks at a distance of 30-40 cm between each other. After installing the frame, we coat the free space between the bath rim and the structure with polyurethane foam.

What to do if the bathtub is irregular?

The most important thing here is to repeat exactly all the bends of the structure. For the manufacture of the frame, you can use a galvanized metal profile, and for cladding - extruded polystyrene foam of maximum density. Before starting work, it is worth measuring the length of the bath and cutting off a profile of the same size, cutting it every 3 cm.

In the future, adhere to the following instructions:

1. Attach the profile to the side of the bathtub and secure with tape. Bend it smoothly along the cuts made and continue to secure with tape over short distances. To hold the shape, also glue the tape along its entire length.
2. Carefully detach the profile from the bathtub and fix it to the floor, gently sliding it inward to the thickness of the profile. If you will be using tiles to create a screen, then in addition to the thickness of the material itself, add about 5 mm more to the glue and putty.
3. Cut off two sections of the profile (focusing on the height of the bath), attach to the walls with self-tapping screws. Cut the expanded polystyrene into separate panels about 20 cm wide and insert each panel into the profile with the low end and the upper end under the bath rim.

Immediately treat the inside with polyurethane foam. Carry out the installation of all panels, not forgetting to leave a small distance for the hatch. It can be mounted after the foam has hardened. It remains to carefully putty the entire surface. After the mixture has dried, you can decorate the screen with tiles, gypsum board or other materials.

Do-it-yourself screen - step-by-step instructions

To create a high-quality screen, you need certain tools and materials that will allow you to do the job quickly and efficiently. The devices used in the work must be selected based on the material.

When working with plastic, you will need:

Bars for props.
Liquid Nails.
Profiles with fasteners.
The right amount of plastic panels.

Of the tools, you can not do without a stapler, puncher, cutting knife, square. Before starting work, be sure to measure the marking line so that it completely repeats the outline of the bath. After that, attach the profile to the covering, and the fastening must be carried out from the inner edge (where you will install the plastic panels).

Application liquid nails will ensure that there is no damage both on the bath itself and on all surfaces. We also fix the panels to the bars with liquid nails: from the bottom, we fix a piece of material along the upper part of the profile, since we need to additionally leave free space for installing the plinth. It is important to understand that to install last panel you need to be skillful, try to combine the first and last parts so that you do not additionally trim.

How to mount a tile screen? Ceramic tile- a popular material for the manufacture of a screen, since this material has not only external attractiveness, but also reliability and durability. Pleases and a huge variety of options for color and texture. For the installation of such a structure, prepare metal corners, drywall, tile, metal profiles. Everything is quite simple here: after assembling the metal frame, it needs to be sewn up with sheets of gypsum board, and tile glue is applied on top and the tiles are mounted.

To install a screen from gypsum plasterboard sheets, you will need similar tools as when working with tiles. After installing the frame and sheets of gypsum board, simply apply decorative plaster on top, cover with moisture-repellent wallpaper, for example, vinyl for decorating the front of the screen.

Features of the arrangement of the screen for corner baths

The corner bath has a non-standard shape, you will have to tinker a little when creating the screen, but the time spent will allow you to enjoy the result of your work for a long time.

A curved product is best made of plastic, since drywall sheets are quite difficult to bend and even more so in this form to install on a rigid profile.

To mount the frame, place the rails on the floor so that they follow the shape of the bathtub. Attach to the top panel with liquid nails wooden blocks to secure the top rail. A plastic panel of the required size is cut out and neatly inserted into the guide panel - the lower joints can be covered with a plinth.

It will look no less effective corner bath made of brickwork and decorated with mosaics. After completing the work, all joints on the structure should be sealed with a moisture-resistant sealant.

In family life. This is not just a room for hygiene procedures. For many people, this is a place of rest, relaxation and just a secluded place where you can be alone. It is unlikely that you will be able to relax in a room where rags for various purposes hang on the pipes, and packs of detergents and bottles with household chemicals are placed in the corners.

Therefore, most people strive to make the bathroom as comfortable, beautiful and clean as possible. Someone is satisfied with the simple painted walls and the ceiling, someone wants to decorate everything with tiles and plastic, and someone can afford it and natural materials like marble and onyx.

But at the same time, everyone certainly wants to close the space under the bathroom with some kind of screen (unless, of course, the bath itself is an exclusive product that decorates the bathroom), since contemplation of valves and plumbing siphons is an unattractive occupation.

Why do you need a screen under the bathroom

The screen covering the side of the bath has several functions:

aesthetic, making the space more beautiful;
functional - allows you to use the bathroom space more expediently if all household products and tools like a plunger, bath brushes and even rags for cleaning the apartment;
sanitary - prevents water from flowing under the bathtub and prevents dust accumulation under it, which makes it easier to clean the room and makes it more hygienic.

In addition, the independent construction of the screen allows you to design a bathroom not in the standard "like everyone else's", but individually. For many craftsmen, this serves as a way of self-expression.

According to the method of installation, the screens under the bath are divided into:

solid;
swing;

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are best known in advance.

Solid screen many will find it most attractive, as it allows the best way fit the bath into the interior of the room. It is the fixed screen that allows the bathtub to be tiled in full accordance with, which gives it a uniform look.

The advantages of this method include the following:

a good solution to the bathroom interior;
ease of care for such a screen - a flat surface can be easily tidied up with a damp cloth or sponge;
the service life of such a screen is practically unlimited.

But there are also disadvantages:

difficult access to communications located under the bathroom (usually only a small window is left in the screen), which in the event of a breakdown may lead to the need complete disassembly screen;
there is no way to wash the bathroom floor, and also to check the space for mold;
there is nowhere to store household chemicals, since it is impossible to get anything due to the static structure;
installation of the screen is quite laborious, especially if you have to close not only one (long) side of the bath, but also the end ones;
it is necessary to leave a small niche for the feet under the bath, otherwise washing the bath will become quite inconvenient.

Swing screen- it is mainly used where there is enough space for opening the doors, as well as in those bathrooms where bathroom furniture sets are used rooms.

In this case, hinged doors make the screen part of this headset, allowing you to decorate the room in a single way. But for this, most likely, you will have to make a custom-made screen, otherwise it is difficult to achieve a complete resemblance to furniture.

Most often, such screens are made of MDF, which is similar in color to the shade of furniture.

The advantages of such designs include:

high decorativeness;
opportunity to place with inside doors are quite voluminous shelves for various accessories and household chemicals (and full opening of the doors makes their use as convenient as possible).

can be used only in bathrooms of considerable size or with a small amount of equipment;
the need to order a screen greatly increases its cost.

Sliding screens- Most Popular. When making with your own hands, this type is most often used.

Such a screen consists of two horizontal guides along which two doors move.

A ready-made screen of this type can be bought in a store or ordered if the dimensions of your bath are non-standard. Typically, the length of the screen varies from 150 to 180 cm. Its height can also be changed with the help of sliding legs, which allow it to be adjusted to any bathroom height.

The frames and doors of such screens (both factory-made and home-made) can be made of various materials. Most often used for frames:

- cheap, fairly durable, moisture-resistant and easy-care material of a wide variety of colors and textures (the only drawback is that it can burst with a strong blow);
aluminum - stronger than plastic, moisture resistant, can be painted in any color (but the paint can eventually wear off from the surface of the profile;
a version with a roller mechanism, which makes the frame invisible and facilitates sliding of the doors (but their price is much higher and it is almost always necessary to order the mechanism individually).

The following materials are used for the manufacture of doors:

plastic is a light material, varied in appearance, is not afraid of moisture, but with an accidental strong impact it can collapse;
MDF - outwardly very similar to, there is a wide selection of textures and colors, but moisture resistance is not too high;
Chipboard - inexpensive, can be covered with a film, but has low water resistance (the material is quite heavy and more suitable for swing doors);
plexiglass - a wide variety of textures, moisture resistant and durable, looks much better than plastic, but is also fragile when mechanically stressed.

DIY screen making

Most often for self-made choose the option with a fixed screen with a technological hole.

Such a screen can be done in several ways:

lay out of bricks;
make a wooden or steel frame and sheathe it with plasterboard or other board material.

Brick screen - a solid, stationary structure that can only be removed by disassembling it completely. Therefore, before installing it, you need to make sure that all pipes, their connections, siphons and valves are in excellent condition and do not require repair for many years.

To erect the wall of the screen, you can use a well-fired brick (it absorbs moisture poorly) or a partition block:

First, in accordance with the size of the brick, mark the masonry line on the floor. More often, the wall is made half a brick thick, you can put it on the edge, but such a wall will be unstable.
Laying is carried out in the usual manner - with bandaging of the seams. For greater stability of the masonry, it is tied to the walls of the bathroom, attaching a wire to them at the level of each row.
When laying out the wall, leave a hole in it. required size the state of communications under the bathroom.
Since the bathtub expands upward, bricks can also be laid on the edge in the upper rows.
After the masonry dries, it is tiled or tiled.

Never use masonry as a support for the edge of the bathtub. To prevent this from happening, a gap of about 1 cm is left between the top row of bricks and the bathroom, which is then foamed.

This is the simplest and cheapest type of screen for DIY production.

To make it, you need to build a frame, which is then sheathed with sheets of drywall. The frame can be made from both wood and metal profiles. When using a wooden frame, it must be painted or treated with special agents to reduce the likelihood of rotting and the appearance of mold.

For a wooden frame you will need:

bars measuring 40 * 40 mm;
screws;
metal corners.

The order of work is as follows:

Measurements are made at the location of the screen and the marking of the points of attachment of the bars. It should be borne in mind that the screen frame should be slightly recessed under the bath, taking into account the thickness of the finishing layer (). If you plan to finish the gypsum board with tiles, then you need to add more thickness of the tile and the adhesive layer.
The preparation of the frame bars is carried out according to measurements: 2 horizontal and vertical bars in the required amount... If the bathtub is short, then 2 vertical bars along the edges of the frame will be enough. If the bathtub is long, then it is better to add a couple of vertical bars at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other for the rigidity of the structure.
Holes must be drilled in the outermost side bars to secure the screen to the walls.
Then the frame is tied with screws and corners.
The frame is attached to the walls.
If necessary, the bottom block of the frame can be fixed to the floor.

To make the screen you will need:

moisture resistant drywall;
hinges for hinging the inspection hatch door;
metal latch.

Operating procedure:

A drywall sheet is marked so that it covers the entire frame.
The intended panel is cut out with a knife or a construction knife.
A hatch hole is cut out in the panel and the door is hung and fixed with a latch.
The screen panel is attached to the frame with screws.
Check the stability of the screen and, if necessary, make its additional fastening.

The last step is to finish the surface of the screen with the selected finishing material: film, tiles, mosaics.

When using a metal profile as a frame, the order of work is the same, only the drywall is fastened not with screws, but with self-tapping screws.

For self-production of screens, you can use not only those materials that are given above, but also many others:

Wood - you just need to pick up wood that is not afraid of dampness. Such a screen can be made in the form wooden blinds- that is, with gaps that will help ventilate the wood and the space under the bathroom.
Plastic lining - mounted vertically on the frame so that water does not linger in the seams. You can also make a screen with narrow openings.
Fabric - for such screens, quick-drying fabrics are selected that are easy to care for: polyester, nylon, membrane "breathable" fabrics. Such screens are obtained by upholstering or covering the frame with the selected material.
A ready-made inspection hatch in a suitable color can be used as an inspection door.

Sometimes screens are made, the walls of which are deflected outward with the help of special fittings. On the inner surface of such screens, there are narrow but long baskets for storing cleaning agents, sponges and other accessories necessary in the bathroom.

Often they have a ready-made screen made of the same material in the kit. All accessories are supplied with shield shields.

It is more difficult to make a screen for a corner or curved bath. Here better fit bent metal profile, sheathed with plastic.

If you don't want to equip your bathroom with a boring purchased screen, then you can always make an inexpensive and beautiful homemade one. True, you will have to spend time and effort, but the product will be one-of-a-kind, and your bathroom will be exclusive.

If you installed a bathtub, you probably already thought about how to hide all the communications underneath. One of possible options- put the screen on. As a rule, this design is only intended to improve the aesthetics of the bathroom. Modern models bathtubs are often supplied with screens. But, if you purchased a bathtub without such a complete set, do not despair. You can always make the screen yourself.

Not everyone likes to cover the bathtub with various trims. An easy way to solve this problem is to purchase a bathtub with beautiful legs and treated, presentable sides. But it also happens that it is not possible to hide the sewer and water supply structures.

TO acrylic baths usually ready-made screens are included that cover the space under them to a minimum. Design features Such baths differ from their cast iron / steel counterparts in that they do not form large voids under them.

The space under the bathroom can also be used more rationally by building a screen under it with shelves or sliding doors. So, you can store detergents under the bathroom, for example.

Among other things, such claddings help to improve the sanitary conditions in the bathroom. Thanks to them, moisture does not accumulate on the floor areas under the bathroom, which provokes the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Modern design developments provide an opportunity to decorate the bath in an original and beautiful way. With their help, you can create simulations of, for example, an underwater world or an aquarium.

In a wet bathroom environment, it is important to use materials that are moisture resistant. There are plenty of them on the market today. Among this set are:

brick;
MDF / OSB;
plastic;
installation of a ready-made kit consisting of a frame and sliding doors.

After installation, all materials, except for plastic and the finished screen kit, must be finished with, for example, plaster, tiles, wallpaper, etc.

Basic material requirements:

There should be a revision opening to the main sewerage and water supply units, closed with a door / plug.
The floor underneath the bathroom should be hermetically sealed from the rest of the bathroom. This is the only way to avoid the formation of dampness, and as a result of fungi and mold under the bathroom.
The bathtub should not lean against the screen as it is a non-supporting structure.
So that the screen does not interfere with the legs in it, you need to organize a notch made at a slope.

If you have enough free space under the bathtub, make a screen with drawer or a small cabinet in which you can store detergents and household chemicals.

Screens are:

deaf;
with a niche for legs;
with sliding doors;
with an inspection door for troubleshooting plumbing problems.

When choosing a screen, the features of the design of the room, the personal preferences of the owner of the house / apartment, and financial capabilities are taken into account.

Plasterboard does not load the floor, unlike heavy brickwork. It's easy to handle. A drywall construction can last from 20 to 25 years. If necessary, the plasterboard screen can be repaired by repairing the damage with putty or by replacing a whole fragment.

For these purposes, you need to use moisture resistant drywall. Due to its moderate vapor permeability, the drywall screen maintains an optimal level of humidity.

Works with gypsum plasterboard do not require any special equipment. Everything you need is usually included home set tools.

In the process of calculating the structure, the availability of access to plumbing units should be taken into account. The revision opening can be closed with a plastic flap. To make the use of the bathtub more comfortable, the lower part of the screen must be shifted under the bathtub by 10–12 cm. The screen is not a supporting structure, as mentioned above, so it should not support the weight of the bathtub. The only thing is that if the design provides shelves or cabinets, then the frame must withstand their weight along with the filling.

First you need to install supporting frame... The most affordable option is a system assembled from a mounting bar, pre-treated with a preservative. Installation of a metal profile will cost you more, however, given its high operational properties, the costs justify the investment.

Whichever way you decide to install the gypsum screen, dowel fasteners will be used as the fastening. Giprok is fixed with self-tapping screws for metal.

On the wall that adjoins the side of the bathtub, draw the markings along which the side profile will be installed. If you are going to use tiles as cladding, then make an additional indent for this. It should be equal to the total thickness of the tile and panel. Mark the length of the bottom of the screen on the floor. For accurate markings, use a plumb line or a building level.

The foot recesses are usually formed in the center of the bath at the bottom of the screen. The middle floor profile you need to make a U-shaped configuration. To do this, you need to install vertical posts with an appropriate slope.

Before installing the plasterboard, install the profile in accordance with the markings. The first step is to secure the UD profile. In this case, put its lower part on moisture resistant sealant... Attach the vertical CD profile to the support profile at the same distance of 60 cm. Install additional stands where the inspection door will be installed.

To cut moisture-resistant plasterboard, use hand saw with small teeth. So, you will succeed clean cut... When manufacturing the screen, it is important to provide a distance from the bath rim equal to 10 mm deep. Thus, contact of the screen with water will be excluded.

If the wall thickness of the frame is 0.55 mm, then standard metal screws must be used to secure the drywall. If the wall thickness of the profile is 0.8 mm, then it is better to use fasteners with a drill bit.

Drywall can be finished with tiles, decorative plaster, film decor or moisture-resistant wallpaper.

Before making the frame, the profile must be given a semicircular shape. To do this, you need to make cuts on the metal profile and bend it. Make two of these arcs. Secure them with self-tapping screws. Then install vertical slats that will stiffen the frame.

The frame should be installed at a certain recess from the side of the bathtub: thickness of plasterboard + thickness of tiles + thickness of glue.

To buy drywall the desired shape, for example, has become arched, it needs to be slightly moistened and gradually bent. The tiles must be laid on elastic glue, aligning the distance between the plates with crosses during the laying process.

The principle of making the frame is indistinguishable from its counterpart, provided for the installation of plasterboard. The only excellent thing is the need to install additional ventilation slots located on the opposite side of the revision door. This should be a small slot covered by a plastic grill. Another option is to make neat round holes in random order.

The space under the bathroom can be closed with a tiled brick wall. Anyone who knows how to handle a household tool is capable of handling masonry. Laying should be done in ¼ or ½ bricks on cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3.

Before laying, you need to mark the position of the screen, taking into account the tiling. Ultimately, the side of the bathtub should be flush with the screen. Lower the plumb line along the edge of the bath, and then mark the line from which the thickness of the tile will be laid and masonry mortar inside the bath. In accordance with this guideline, you need to make brickwork. In addition, the vertical lines of the screen structure on opposite walls of the bathroom should be beaten off.

If the bricks do not fit entirely at the top of the screen, they will need to be adjusted in height and thickness.

If you want to make a structure with a leg niche in the masonry of the lower row (or several rows), then you will have to leave an opening in the masonry, overlapped by steel strips up to 6 mm thick. This will ensure the retention of the bricks of the upper row.

The niche can be made with an inclined wall. However, it is technically more difficult to perform such laying. To do this, mark the bottom contour of the niche on the floor. Set the height and depth of the niche on paper. By connecting the dots, you have a pattern. On it you will need to cut off a brick for the side walls. You can cut a brick with a grinder or a diamond wheel. The masonry of the inclined wall is carried out with the binding of bricks with side walls and among themselves.

The upper row of bricks of the wall with a slope must be brought to the level of the horizontal row, and then cut off with a grinder. You should get a horizontal line. Further, the masonry process is similar to the previous method.

After laying the masonry, install the inspection door. To simplify the task, you can purchase one made of plastic at a hardware store. Another option is to make it yourself from a galvanized / aluminum profile, which can then be sheathed with plastic panels or other materials.

To make the frame, you will need to install a timber or a metal profile, and then install the starting profile, on which the plastic lining will be attached.

To make the design more rigid, you need to install the profiles in the middle of the screen. This should be taken into account, because the lining can deform and lose its shape from the smallest mechanical loads.

The lower profile must be screwed to the floor and sealed with a sealant. The plastic lining must be cut into strips equal to the height of the screen. They need to be brought into the starting profile with the edges. So, gradually the entire screen will be filled with clapboard. A rectangle must be cut at the installation site of the inspection door. Then you can install the door, which can be purchased at the same store as the lining.

If you need additional shelves, you can install them under the bathroom. If you want to close them from prying eyes, install a sliding screen. It can be made so that the shelves open vertically.

Vertical structures fixed on gas lifts or other fasteners used in the manufacture of furniture.

If you have to choose one of the models of standard sliding screens and install it under the bathroom, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of the features of this plan's products. The standard length of the screens is 1.5 and 1.7 m. Versatile designs can be reduced in length. They come in height - 50.6 cm, 55 and 56 cm. The constructions are equipped with adjustable legs.

A simple sliding screen option is a pre-fabricated structure that consists of an aluminum / plastic frame with two panels. More sophisticated models are additionally equipped with drawers with shelves for storing detergents and household chemicals. Panels are made of glass or plexiglass.

If you need to install a screen under the bath in a small room, then a mirror structure can be installed to visualize the increase in space.