Can laminated MDF be painted. How to paint MDF: Choosing the right primer and paint

MDF - fiberboard - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.

Furniture fronts have become commonplace in our kitchens, our offices and many other places.

MDF is a medium density material that is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin, a naturally occurring substance found in wood, acts as a binder.

Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for surface finishing, it is a worthy replacement for it. The main advantages of MDF include the following:

Good moisture resistance;
Heat resistant;
High surface strength;
Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
Low cost;
Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.

The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.

But DDF facades, like facades made of other materials, lose their luster over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades have ceased to be in harmony with the respectable look of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two possible solutions. The facades must either be changed or repainted.

Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If there is a desire and the necessary materials and tools, an ordinary person, not experienced in modern construction technologies, can easily cope with this task.

This article will discuss how to paint a MDF facade with your own hands.

Fiber boards are excellent paintable. This fact once again confirms the high quality of this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, one should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:

Due to the homogeneity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not need additional surface preparation for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer of old paint on the surface of the fiberboard, then all surface preparation will consist in removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take a lot of time;
The MDF surface is very resistant to mechanical deformation. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even make minor changes to the surface texture.

We paint MDF ourselves

The algorithm for painting a furniture facade made of MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:

Surface preparation;
Primer;
Selection of the type and color of paint;
Paint application.

In the process of performing these operations, you will need the following materials and tools:

Roller and paint brush;
Masking tape;
Hair dryer for construction;
Latex gloves;
Primer for wood;
Fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface preparation

First of all, in the process of surface preparation, it is necessary to remove all the fittings from it.

As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it does not have mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The old paint layer must be removed with a building hair dryer. Do not try to perform this operation manually - it will be time consuming and can cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are visible mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed with wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully processed with fine-grained emery paper.

Surface priming

As a primer for MDF surfaces, a wood primer is best. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. You can use a paint brush, roller or spray.

It will take 24 hours for the primer to dry completely.

Choosing the type and color of paint

When choosing the type of paint for the MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are able to create a durable coating.

Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer consumers a wide selection of products in a rich color range. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you can choose the best color option for yourself, which will allow furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.

Paint application

The paint is selected. The primer is dry. You can get down to what you started all this for, to paint. Cover the areas not intended for painting, if any, with masking tape and start painting the surface. The method and method of applying paint at your discretion. The paint must be applied in one direction.

As a result, you will get a durable, lacquered or matte finish depending on the texture of the paint, a coating that will give furniture facades a new look and will reliably protect them for a long time.

The video shows the painting of MDF facades:

If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting facades from MDF will be significantly higher and will range from 1200 to 2000 rubles per square meter of surface.

Furniture facade painting is the second life of your furniture

Furniture in the house is a kind of visiting card of the owners, which presents their taste, financial well-being, the ability to create coziness.

They select wardrobes, sideboards, bedside tables and much more very carefully, paying attention to the smallest details. And if the functionality of furniture has been tested over the years, its appearance - color, finish, decorative details, will fall in love with you at first sight.

But what if the color of the facade doesn't match the design idea, or you need to update the look of your favorite chest of drawers? Then the most correct solution is painting the furniture facade.

Approaches to the choice of paint for furniture facades

Facades made of MDF or solid wood are best suited for painting. The quality and achievement of the desired effect depends on the choice of paint. The paint for painting the facade must be of high quality and meet the requirements set for the operating conditions.

For furniture, paints are produced of various chemical composition and operational properties:

oil;
latex;
alkyd;
water-dispersive.

Car enamels are often used, which are moisture resistant, form a film during coating and do not deteriorate from temperature changes. Such paints are well suited for coating the facades of kitchen furniture.

A large selection of colors and types of coatings (matte, semi-mat, semi-gloss, glossy) for painting furniture are offered by the trademarks TIKKURILA, MILESI, NEKNOS, SADOLIN, PINOTEX, ALPINA.

The products of these manufacturers are resistant to moisture and many chemically aggressive detergents.

It is easiest to change the tone of a light base. If you apply a tinted varnish or stain, you can get a darker color and, at the same time, retain the original structure of the coating.

Advice! For light-colored furniture, a decorative and protective composition is suitable. When applied in several layers, it will change the color of the coating.

When painting a dark facade, you need to be prepared for the fact that the structure of the tree or other base will not be preserved, especially when changing the color to a lighter one.

The possibilities of color solutions are not limited, since the coating palette consists of more than 200 colors that can be combined, mixed, and colored with each other.

Advice! If the palette does not have the required tone, mix the dark and light colors several times in different containers and proportions. Then check the result on a test surface.

Once dry, you can make your choice.

How to paint a furniture facade yourself

The video shows how to paint a furniture facade:

The technology of painting furniture facades is a time-consuming process, but from the point of view of implementation it is not very complicated and it can be done independently.

It is necessary, firstly, to purchase the necessary consumables and tools, secondly, to study all the recommendations, instructions and strictly follow them, thirdly, to have a clear idea of the desired result.

What tools and materials are needed

How to choose a paint has already been determined.

But how to apply it to the surface? You can use spray guns, rollers, brushes. Depends on personal preferences and ability to work with this or that instrument.

Choose rollers and brushes strictly for the type of paint that will be used to paint furniture facades. This is indicated on the packaging.

Advice! The velor roller is suitable for water emulsion, and brushes made of natural or combined bristles are suitable for varnishes, acrylics, stains.

You will also need a primer that matches both the type of paint and the surface to be painted.

Painting of the MDF cabinet. Is it possible?

You also need to prepare masking tape, gloves, sandpaper, felt, a piece of wool, a hair dryer, a screwdriver, a drill, and a marker.

The main stages of painting furniture facades

It will be easy to paint the furniture facade yourself if you divide all the work into four stages:

dismantling;
surface preparation;
painting;
assembly.

Stage one

The entire facade is completely disassembled: doors are removed, fittings, awnings, fasteners, glass inserts are unscrewed.

Masking tape covers all surfaces that will not be painted at all or will be covered with a different color.

Markers are made to mark the correspondence between the details, so as not to be confused in the future and to put everything in its place. Dust and any dirt is removed from the painted parts of the furniture. Places for fasteners and new fittings are determined. To install them, holes are drilled with a drill.

Stage two

The entire result of painting the facade of the furniture depends on the quality of surface preparation.

This stage is performed in several steps until an absolutely smooth surface is obtained:

if there is an old coating, it is removed with a paint dryer;
upon detection of chips, cracks - everything is putty and sealed;
grinding is carried out with material with grain size 180;
the surface is primed with an insulating mixture - a primer;
after drying, it is sanded with a brush with a grain size of 240;
the overlay of a basic primer, which should fill all the pores and completely cover the surface;
Once dry, sand with 400 grit.

Stage three

The video shows how the decoration of the furniture facade occurs:

Do-it-yourself painting of furniture facades with the selected paint is very simple.

If the coating is applied with a spray gun or from a spray can, care must be taken to protect the respiratory tract. All work is carried out in one direction. After the first layer has dried, you can cover it with the second, then the color will be more saturated.

Both painting and primer can be done with a spray gun, spraying the substance from a distance of 15-20 cm.

If it is supposed to be painted in several colors, then the already painted parts are covered with masking tape. And new ones are painted in a different tone.

The stages of painting a furniture facade made of MDF are complemented by decoration.

This can be varnishing, glazing (glazing), polishing.

Advice! It is better to apply varnish in several layers on the paint and in one on glizal. Each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Stage four

They start to it not earlier than the last coating is completely dry.

For example, glizal dries for about a week. All adhesive tape is removed, hinges, handles, fasteners are installed and the facade is mounted in accordance with the marker marks.

After all the work done, you will get unique furniture that perfectly suits the interior and design of the room.

It's no secret that the kitchen is the center of any home. And our task is not only to correctly plan it - in order to spend a minimum of effort and time when preparing food - but also to exploit it so that its presentation will please us and the household for many years. Most often, the consumer opts for chipboard furniture with MDF facades covered with PVC film.

This choice is explained, first of all, by the relatively inexpensive price, as well as by the wide choice of configurations and colors. That is, there is an opportunity to satisfy almost any, even very demanding, taste.

Care rules

So, here your beloved and long-awaited kitchen was brought and installed, or you, after poring over the project for a long time, assembled it yourself.

What to do or what not to do, so that in a couple of months you will not experience disappointment with the purchase.

MDF painting technology: materials and nuances

After all, the production technology of such facades, unfortunately, does not reflect in the best way on their durability: the film can begin to peel off over time, especially around the perimeter. We will voice a few simple operating rules relating specifically to MDF facades covered with PVC film.

The kitchen can only be washed with "mild" detergents.
Never use scouring powders containing abrasive substances. Well suited for this are various sprays for surfaces (you can for glass) and a soft sponge, napkin.
Avoid extreme temperature changes.
Try to maintain +10 to +35 degrees. Lower or higher temperatures may cause the film to peel off. Sooner or later, an open oven, a nearby heated stove, too intense ventilation (especially in winter), and heaters will lead to the same result.

Features of operation

Think, after all, PVC film sticks at a temperature of 120 - 180 degrees, and if your oven gives out at least 60 -100 degrees, this already poses a threat to the closets nearby.

Install the thermal insulation strip.

It protects the ends of the cabinet from heating by the stove and avoids delamination of the edge. It is mounted to the ends of the cabinet. It is very unpretentious in care: it is recommended to wipe it with a damp cloth to remove dirt, but it is not recommended to use any cleaning agents.

Avoid high humidity. If you are still in doubt whether to install the hood or not, then, I think, now your choice is obvious. Steam from pots, grease from pans will also have a negative effect on your furniture.
Water is the enemy of any furniture.
Make sure that it does not fall on the facades.
Close doors and slide drawers carefully, avoiding sudden movements. Do not subject them to mechanical stress (contact with sharp objects, friction, impact).
The close location of lighting fixtures can lead to excessive heating of the facade and, as a consequence, deformation of the film, as well as to a change in the color of the cladding. The luminaire and the facade should not be closer to each other than 15 cm.

DIY MDF facade repair

What to do if you notice that the PVC film is peeling off.

First of all, if the kitchen is still under warranty, report this unpleasant incident to the seller. He is simply obliged to replace the defective kitchen facades with new ones. Perhaps the marriage is due to the quality of the glue that the film is glued to, or its insufficient amount. Simply put, the manufacturer saved you money. However, the seller may also ask how correctly you used the furniture.

If the warranty has already expired, then you can try to fix the defect yourself. Type PVA glue or superglue of the "Moment" type into a medical syringe, you can also use "liquid nails" and carefully glue it under the film.

However, this method can be used if the film has simply come off. If it has "shrunk", which most often happens as a result of overheating, then there is already little that can be done.

Try to mask it with a matching putty. But, despite all your efforts to restore furniture in this case, I cannot guarantee you a good result. The best solution would be to order new facades, but keep in mind that they must either be ordered for the entire kitchen at once, since the manufacturers of film facades do not guarantee exact color matching of films from different batches; or open a designer in yourself and "play" with the colors of the facades.

For example, if your kitchen is light green, then you can order the facades for the cabinets, on which they need to be replaced, in yellow.

As the technology of manufacturing MDF furniture facades in PVC film is mastered, one should not forget about alternative directions for the development of the enterprise, for example, such as painting MDF facades.

The situation on the furniture market is constantly moving forward and the demands of consumers do not remain unchanged. Therefore, sooner or later, manufacturers of MDF furniture may have the question of how to paint the MDF facade, what equipment and materials will be required and what technology for painting MDF facades is best suited for this particular enterprise.

Equipment for painting MDF facades

To paint the facades of MDF, you will need a room with an area of at least about 40 sq.

m with a separate chamber for painting, a place for grinding parts, for drying and storing blanks and holding finished products. The room must be heated with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. The painting chamber should be suitably equipped with a hood and preferably a rotating table, a drying room with racks, a place for grinding with powerful vacuum cleaners.

To apply paintwork materials and primers, you will need a pneumatic spray gun with a nozzle from 1.5 to 2 mm and a compressor with a receiver of 80-100 liters to it.

For grinding parts, you need an eccentric vibration sander, and for polishing, an angle grinder (grinder) with the appropriate attachments.

Preparing MDF for painting

When choosing MDF for painting, you should pay special attention to the quality of the board, first of all, the raising of the pile during processing and the presence of embossing from the molds used in its manufacture.

Milling of MDF facades should be carried out at the maximum possible speed of the tool in order to reduce the likelihood of raising the pile.

Since the paint and varnish layer of the finished MDF facade remains very fragile, you should avoid leaving sharp corners on the parts, which can be knocked down if handled carelessly. To do this, they are processed with an edge mill with a radius of 2-3 mm.

Grinding of the details of the MDF facades must be carried out over the entire plane in order to remove the upper protective layer of wax.

For this, an eccentric sander with sandpaper P 180-240 is used. Complex bends of milling MDF facades are easiest to process with an emery sponge.

If it is planned to paint MDF facades consisting of several component parts, the cracks formed at the joints should be pre-filled with filling primer.

After complete drying, its remnants should be carefully removed with a rag or spatula, and then cleaned with P240-320 emery cloth.

Priming of MDF facades for painting

First of all, complex reliefs of milling or overlay elements of the surface of the MDF facade are primed.

Then the edge of the part is primed. Further, the entire plane of the MDF facade is covered with soil.

MDF paint - a quick way to transform the interior

The movement of the pistol is carried out first along and then across the part. Each subsequent layer should be 50% overlapped on the previous one. All subsequent stages of applying primers, paints and varnishes are carried out in a similar way.

If you want to paint the MDF furniture facade on both sides, then paintwork is first applied to the inside of the facade. After it dries, you can cover the front side.

As a rule, priming of MDF facades for painting is carried out in 2 stages.

At the first stage, using a spray gun, a layer of insulating soil (80-100 g / sq. M) is applied, which should provide protection against the absorption of subsequent layers of paintwork and raising the pile. After complete drying, sanding is performed with an emery sponge or sandpaper P320-400.

It is important not to wipe the soil layer down to the MDF during active sanding.

At the second stage, before painting the MDF facade, a layer of white polyurethane primer is applied 150-200 g / sq.

m. The drying time of this layer can last from 8-10 to 24 hours, depending on the composition of paintwork materials used. After drying, sanding is carried out with P320-400 sandpaper.

Milling bends and hard-to-reach areas of the MDF facade are sanded with Scotch-brite abrasive.

Painting of MDF facades

Painting of MDF facades is carried out using a spray gun with a paint (enamel) consumption of 60 to 200 g / sq.

m. Setting the nozzle diameter, air pressure, spray method, number of coats and the interval of their application, as a rule, depend on the type of paint used. Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with this or that paint (enamel), you should carefully study the instructions for its use.

Complex ready-made compositions of paintwork materials with various special effects should be thoroughly mixed beforehand, since the decorative component of the paint can settle with a solid suspension at the bottom of the can.

You also need to make sure that the decorative additives will pass freely through the gun nozzle.

During painting and varnishing, it is important to exclude all the possibility of dust, debris or insects getting onto the surface of MDF facades. If this does happen, you must have tweezers or a needle on hand.

Significant and highly noticeable smudges of paint (soil) are removed after drying by cutting with a clerical knife, and then carefully sanded off with a sandpaper.

Patination of painted MDF facades

As a rule, patina is used on matte colors of MDF facades with complex elements of surface and edge milling.

The patinating composition is applied without preliminary priming over a layer of paint using a spray gun, roller, brush, foam rubber, tampon or other tool. After drying, the excess patina can be removed by sanding with P320-400 abrasives or Scotch-brite sandpaper.

After thorough cleaning of the MDF facade from dust, the paint layer and patina are covered with matt acrylic varnish (130-150 g / sq. M) and sent for drying. After 12-24 hours, the matt MDF facade can be packed and sent for storage.

Facade coating of MDF after varnishing and polishing.

In order to give the surface of the MDF facade high resistance to mechanical damage, and freshness and depth to the paints, it should be covered with transparent acrylic glossy varnish.

The varnish is applied in two layers 120-150 g / sq. m, in two steps with an interval that ensures the drying of the first layer (according to the instructions).

The varnished MDF facades are sent to dry. After 1-2 days you can start grinding, and after 5-7 days - polishing and finishing the product.

Sanding of the dried varnish layer using an eccentric sander begins with the processing of the facade with P1200-1500 emery cloth and ends with P3000-4000.

In this case, the surface of the facade must be periodically sprayed with water in order to exclude overheating and rolling off of varnish particles. At the end of the sanding process, a uniform, matte surface should be obtained.

To polish MDF facades, an angle grinder with a hard (Novol white) foam rubber wheel and an abrasive paste Bril-852 are used.

After applying the paste to the surface of the facade, it is necessary to grind it over the area with a machine at low speeds. Then, increasing the speed of the machine to 1500-2000, proceed directly to polishing. It is important to smoothly lead the circle from one edge to the other, first horizontally and then vertically.

The polishing wheel should be slightly damp. In addition, for a greater effect, experts recommend applying a little furniture wax to the circle.

For finishing the gloss, you will need SiashineFINISH non-abrasive paste and a soft (black Novol) foam pad for polishing. As a result, you should get a facade with a mirrored surface.

Packaging and storage of painted MDF facades

The best option for packaging painted MDF facades will be polyethylene foam plus corrugated cardboard.

On the one hand, they will well protect products from mechanical damage. On the other hand, some paint and varnish materials continue to emit vapors of chemical compounds for some time, which condense on the surface of the facade when packed in ordinary polyethylene and leave spots on the gloss.

This combination of packaging material allows the evaporation of vapors accompanying the drying process even after storage.

Efficiency of painting MDF facades

It is quite difficult to determine the benefits from the manufacture of painted MDF facades if the manufacturer is not exclusively engaged in their production and sale.

According to various sources, the average cost of 1 sq. m of glossy facade is 60-80 dollars. The main share of the costs falls on the remuneration of skilled workers, since the technology of painting MDF facades is based on manual labor (priming, grinding, painting, polishing), and the entire production cycle sometimes reaches 10 or more days.

In conclusion, I would like to say that the technology of painting MDF facades may differ at different enterprises, since a huge number of primers, paints, enamels, varnishes and other materials are presented on the modern market, which in their technological properties are strikingly different from each other.

For example, recently it has become fashionable to use automotive primers and enamels when painting MDF facades. But before painting the facade of the kitchen, it is worth remembering that the car and the kitchen have completely different functions, and it is not a fact that auto enamel is so harmless that it can be "consumed" with food.

Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with an unknown paint, you should still study the paint and varnish market.

Fortunately, there are plenty of firms producing primers, paints, enamels and varnishes for working specifically on MDF. Here is a list of some of the well-established brands:

LKM: Sayerlack, Votteler, Sivam, Tikkurila, Teknos, Sirca, PaliWood UM;
Patina: Sayerlack, Borma, HesseLignal
Polishing pastes: 3M Perfect, Bril-852, Menzerna, Siashine FINISH.

The abbreviation MDF stands for finely dispersed fraction. This material, invented in 1966 in the USA, is a high pressure compressed medium density wood fiber board.

Today MDF has gained universal recognition, for example, among furniture manufacturers. And if you have MDF pieces of furniture at home, it is quite possible to repaint them again - this is an inexpensive and effective means of changing the situation. In addition, painting can further protect MDF surfaces from negative environmental factors.

Modern technologies and materials make it possible to paint the facade in the kitchen or other pieces of furniture made of MDF at home with quite high quality.

Paints that can be applied

For self-painting MDF boards, it is best to take enamels, since they form a strong opaque film, they are glossy and matte. The following materials can be used:

alkyd, alkyd-urethane or oil-based enamels;
based on polyurethane resins;
acrylic enamels;
nitro paints of the NTs series;
professional two-component polyurethane enamels;
specialized enamels for MDF;
car enamels.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics. But, perhaps, the last two items of the list have the best properties.

It is especially worth noting that in industrial conditions today, powder coating of MDF facades is often used. This method is extremely economical, making it possible to achieve high mechanical and chemical costs. The method is based on the ability of opposite charges to be attracted to each other. It was originally used for ceramics, metals and other materials that can withstand high temperatures.

It is now almost impossible to paint MDF facades in standard home conditions using a powder method. For such painting, special expensive equipment is needed, which can pay for itself only with constant frequent use, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to place it at home.

Types of varnishes

Instead of painting, you can choose varnish. In order to reliably cover the MDF with varnish, it is necessary to apply several layers and wait for complete drying each time. The process will take a long time and will take effort.

If, nevertheless, a decision is made to choose a varnish, then they pay attention not only to its cost and composition, but also to wear resistance, resistance to moisture, high temperature. To cover MDF boards at home, you can use several different types of varnishes.

The cheapest formulations in this segment are alcohol-based, have a short drying time (up to half an hour), that is, they are quick-drying. Among the traditional inexpensive varnishes are oil varnishes, which not only give a beautiful appearance to surfaces, but also effectively protect them from moisture.

Note! For MDF countertops, two-component epoxy varnishes are an excellent choice, which are characterized by increased resistance to impacts.

Acrylic varnishes are good because they are odorless, do not emit toxic substances, do not wash off or dilute with water. Another popular option is polyurethane varnish. It is characterized by enviable wear resistance, good adhesion to wood-based materials.

As for those cases when further polishing of MDF products is expected, then nitrocellulose varnishes will be the best option.

Surface grinding and sanding

In paintwork, domestic or industrial, correct surface preparation is important. In order for the paint to fit well on the MDF board in the future (for example, on facades or wall panels), you must first grind them.

Certain tools are required for grinding:

sandpaper;
fine-grained soft abrasive;
grinders for a primer.

If the product for painting is small, then they work with sandpaper on foam rubber of gradation from P220 to P280. For cleaning large flat surfaces, the 700 series fine-grained grinding mats are used. The same materials can be used to remove excess soil in the future.

MDF facades are sanded over the entire plane, removing the top layer of varnish. Difficult bends in the milling of MDF facades, edges, edges and ends are best cleaned with the same sandpaper.

When grinding, it is required to observe the technology of removing the old varnish, it is impossible to allow the surface to overheat (if they work with a power tool), to prevent the appearance of so-called scratches (scratches) on the lamination. The wood-fiber surface, as a rule, is under the decorative laminated film, therefore, when sanding, the top layer must not be wiped down to holes. Chips are separately cleaned from dirt, the edges are sanded.

After sanding, the surface will become dull, rough. Then the dust is swept away (sucked in with a vacuum cleaner), the surface of the plate is washed with a solvent. It will remove possible fat deposits, excess moisture, dirt.

Coating with a primer

Before painting, it is highly desirable to treat MDF with a primer. This processing is carried out in two passes. At the first stage, the insulator soil is sprayed with a spray gun at the rate of 90-100 grams per square meter.

Note! If you intend to paint a laminated MDF board (LMDF), then you can do without priming and go directly to the next operation.

The primer should prevent new paint or varnish from absorbing into the MDF board. The soil gets into all loose areas of MDF, which means that the paint will not sag in the future. After the primer is dry, the surface is carefully sanded with sandpaper or sandpaper.

For the second coat, it is best to use a white polyurethane primer. Here the consumption should be as follows - 150 grams per square meter. And this layer of soil must be given a certain time to dry - up to 24 hours.

If we talk about general recommendations for MDF primer, then it is carried out with a spray gun. If there is no spray gun, then you can use a brush. First, the most complex elements of the cutters are processed, then the edge and the rest of the surface. For the first time, the part is covered along, and the second layer is made across the direction of the strokes of the first.

Paint application

After priming, it is time for the paint to be applied directly. Here, in principle, there is nothing complicated. First, prepare the dye according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then they take a spray gun and adjust so that the area of its coverage is small. This allows you to economically use material and paint as thoroughly as possible.

Painting MDF facades or other products made of this material begins with the most problematic (for example, covered with cracks and scratches) areas. And only after that the rest of the area is painted over. For best results, apply several coats. Moreover, after each layer, it is necessary to take a break from twenty minutes to several hours - for drying.

If you have no experience with the spray gun, then you should first conduct training on some unnecessary piece of wood. Of course, you can use a roller or brush, but in this case there is a risk that the surface will not turn out to be perfectly smooth and even.

Varnishing

After staining, in most cases, it is also necessary to varnish the product. The first layer of varnish, prepared for use, is applied according to the same calculation as the primer (150 g per 1 sq. M).

The second layer is applied after the first layer is completely dry. Then, when this paint dries up, you need to sand the MDF panel again. First, coarse-grained sandpaper is passed over its surface, and then fine-grained sandpaper is used. To prevent the lumps from rolling, the treated area is periodically moistened with water.

A week later, the MDF must be additionally polished with a grinder and abrasive paste. This is the most correct technology, although at home, working with your own hands, it is sometimes not followed, confining itself to ordinary varnishing.

Experts recommend using a spray gun for painting, because after using a paint brush or roller, there will be traces of fluff. Painted furniture is often positioned in a location where the sun's rays fall on it from different angles. And in this case, all the shortcomings of the front coverings will be visible very well.

Note! Least of all traces remain when using a roller with a fine nap - if there is no spray gun, then it is better to choose this particular tool.

It so happens that you need to paint yourself not only the outer, but also the back side of the MDF board. In this case, it is worth taking a break between these two operations - wait until it dries. The time it takes for this or that paint to dry is usually indicated on the packaging, but you need to take into account the microclimate in the room and make the appropriate adjustment.

When painting MDF with their own hands, many are tempted to use an aerosol can. However, experts advise to refrain from this impulse. It is really easy to work with aerosols, but the quality of the coating leaves much to be desired - professionals have many complaints about it.

A paint that dries for a long time hides defects better. Fast-drying materials are clearly inferior here - some cracks and irregularities remain noticeable.

It so happens that mistakes in painting or too deep damage become noticeable after the end of the work. In this case, they can be masked with self-adhesive tape. You just need to select the desired pattern in the store and carefully glue the film on the facade of the furniture.

The pile on MDF boards does not rise, as in natural wood materials, and this must be taken into account when buying paints, primers, varnishes. The fact is that the price of a lint-free coating is higher than usual, so you shouldn't overpay for unnecessary benefits.

MDF panels are a building material intended for finishing premises, cladding facades of cabinet furniture or walls; it is produced from wood chips of low or medium thickness. These parts are considered an environmentally friendly finishing element, since synthetic adhesives are not used in their manufacture, but natural wood resin is used, which reliably fixes all layers of the product and forms a single whole. MDF panels have medium and low density, depending on the number of layers and the composition of the wood. Over time, during the operation of these parts, their surface can get scratches, the coating loses its gloss or has defects, as a result, the integrity of the entire panel is violated, and the appearance of the entire finish becomes unsightly. In this case, any owner is faced with the question: how to update the facade of the panel without completely changing them?

MDF panels on the wall

This article discusses the question of the possibility of painting products such as MDF wall panels, whether it is possible to paint MDF, as well as the process of carrying out such work at home.

There are a number of reasons why it may be necessary to paint MDF panels, these include:

Mechanical damage to the surface as a result of impact with a sharp object or other material. The top layer of the MDF panel consists of laminated or plain paper with paint applied to it; when exposed to a solid object, the film breaks, which exposes the core of the entire product;
Burnout of paint, loss of color brightness. This deformation results from exposure to ultraviolet rays and atmospheric air, which contains a small amount of moisture. Over time, the coating becomes dull, loses its shine and original appearance;
Temperature changes also negatively affect the external state of the surface of MDF panels, since the internal structure consists of wood, which absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and at the same time swells over the entire area. When the temperature rises, the MDF dries up and can crack at the same time, besides, the glue contained in the composition of the panel loses its ability from moisture, which leads to peeling of paper, lamination and shavings.

MDF and water

These causes of deformations lead to an unsightly appearance of the entire surface and violate the overall design of the wall. If these defects occur, you can paint the MDF panels, having previously done a number of preparatory procedures, but it should be understood that painting parts with your own hands at home brings a result that differs from processing with paints in production.

Painting process of MDF panels

Before answering the question of how to paint MDF panels, you need to understand the composition of this product. MDF board, wall or facade, consists of several layers of compressed paper and sawdust, laminated with a transparent or colored film on the front side. Most often, it is the top layer that is subject to damage and wear, therefore, when planning to renew MDF, it is necessary to prepare the indicated types of coatings.

In order to prepare MDF panels for painting at home, you will need:

Sandpaper for surface preparation and removal of gloss or varnish;
Solvent for degreasing surfaces from glue and liquid residues;
Dry rags or other lint-free cloth.

These materials are necessary for pre-treatment of MDF panels for painting and for sealing cracks and scratches on the laminate.

Priming MDF panels

All work should be carried out in accordance with the algorithm of actions. The first step is to sand the panel with fine sanding paper, this can be done manually or using a pneumatic tool. It is important to observe the technology of removing varnish, to prevent overheating of the surface or the formation of large marks on the laminate. The wood-fiber surface is under the decorative film, therefore, when sanding, you need to carefully monitor the thickness of the top layer so as not to erase it through and through. After this procedure, the coating will cease to shine and become rough, slightly cocky.

Next, you need to clean out all cracks and chips from dirt and dust, as well as clean out their edges. All irregularities, if necessary, are rubbed with a special putty, which forms a single whole with the base of the panel, it must also be leveled with sandpaper.

After the surface has been processed and leveled, it must be wiped with a dry cloth and degreased with a chemical solvent, which will displace and evaporate all water, washing away dust and dirt.

At the next stage, the top coat is primed with a special paint, it has a grainy texture and can be applied using compressed air or a simple brush. It can be used to coat the surface in several layers, with intermediate sanding, until the required smoothness is achieved.

Next, the main paint is prepared, tinted and thoroughly mixed so that all the elements are mixed with each other. You can paint the MDF panels manually or with a special pneumatic gun, but this will require a compressor unit and a moisture-water separator. The composition is applied with smooth movements in two layers: the first - across the main direction, the second - along the entire length of the part. Thus, the formation of smudges and sagging of paint is prevented.

The final stage will be the processing of the top paper-wood layer of the panel with transparent varnish. This procedure is not necessary, but after it is carried out, the surface of the MDF product becomes glossy, its top layer seems to be renewed, and the appearance of the entire structure is restored.

For your information. It is important to observe the drying intervals of the elements between the layers of primer, paint and varnish, since otherwise they will fold and crack, and you will have to carry out all the work again.

Using a spray gun

How to paint and update MDF panels

For MDF panels, you can use alkyd or acrylic enamel, but when choosing a paint, you should take into account the type of primer, the operating conditions of the panels, as well as the composition of the top layer. If it is laminated paper with a synthetic, weakly absorbent film, then it will be advisable to use acrylic or water-dispersion enamel. These materials are environmentally friendly and are perfect for interior painting indoors, while the surface of the panel will be updated and additionally protected from moisture in an aggressive environment.

Thus, subject to the entire dyeing technology, the question of whether it is possible to paint MDF panels becomes quite solvable at home.

Video

Can MDF panels or facades be painted? Such a process is possible. But it requires the observance of certain conditions, consisting of the choice of materials, preparatory work, main stages and finishing touches. Painting MDF panels is a task that everyone can do. The only thing that is important to consider is that not all paints are suitable for this purpose, and those that do are not cheap.

Pros and cons of painting MDF

MDF painting is carried out most often for two reasons:

the need to protect the material from negative environmental factors;
decorative purpose - I want to change the color of the MDF board or improve its appearance.

Regardless of the reason for the painting, it has several advantages:

The painted element becomes resistant to high temperatures. This means that when using the MDF panel in the kitchen, it will be possible to put hot dishes on it.
The presence of special additives in the paint makes it possible to obtain facades of the original design: mother-of-pearl, pearls, metallic.
As a rule, paints intended for MDF do not contain harmful chemicals. This is a big plus, especially if the staining of the material is planned to be carried out at home.
And finally, painting products can significantly extend their service life.

Of course, MDF staining is not without its drawbacks, of which the following can be distinguished:

high price in comparison with film coating;
the possibility of color fading under direct exposure to sunlight.

What materials to use?

Since MDF is a material that consists of wood fiber, it can also be painted with ordinary wood paints. However, in order to get a really high-quality result and uniform coloring, you will need special formulations, including:

a primer based on polyurethane;
paint (also polyurethane);
varnish for MDF (if necessary).

Polyurethane enamel does not contain volatile components and can be used for both indoor and outdoor use.

Dyeing technology

The process of painting MDF with colored polyurethane enamels includes several stages:

grinding;
primer;
directly painting;
drying.

Grinding

For good adhesion of the paintwork, it is necessary to sand the processed products, be it facades or wall panels. To do this, use:

dry sandpaper;
scotch-bright - soft, fine-grained abrasive;
ground grinding machines.

If the product is small, then sandpaper based on foam rubber, gradation P220-P280, is used.
For flat surfaces, sanding mats of the 700 series with fine abrasives are used. The same materials will help to remove excess soil, fill risks before painting.

The surface is cleaned, directly on which the paint will be applied. After cleaning, the surface must be degreased with anti-silicone.

Putty

MDF for painting is prepared carefully, here you can't get away with only grinding. If there are visible flaws (cracks, dents), then the surface in these areas must be putty, thereby leveling the surface.

For puttying, acrylic wood putty is best suited; it should be applied and smoothed with a special rubber spatula.

Primer

For flat products it is better to use LBR30 universal white polyurethane primer. Its high resin content gives it a minimal tendency to shrinkage. Suitable for matte and glossy finishes. For the latter, where every defect is visible on the surface, the preparation requirements are an order of magnitude higher. The best results are obtained by using polyester primers.

Before painting the panels, they must be carefully prepared. Make a working mixture initially. For this you need to take:

LBR 30 soil - 100 parts by weight;
hardener LNB 77 - 40 parts by weight;
thinner LZC 1051 - 10 parts by weight.

All these components must be mixed together and the first layer of primer must be applied to the surface to be painted using a pistol with a top tank. Nozzle diameter 1.8 mm, air pressure 2-3 atmospheres. Material consumption should be 120 g per 1 m2. The optimum film thickness is 120 microns. To completely complete the shrinkage process, the soil should be dried within 12 hours.

Before painting the product, it will need to be abraded again. For gloss, an emery tool with a finer grain is additionally used. After that, the surface will be prepared, and paint for MDF panels can be applied.

In the video: priming and sanding MDF.

Painting

Wall panels can be painted with a brush, roller or spray gun. The room temperature should be about + 20 ° С, the air humidity should be in the range of 50-80%. Can be painted with matte or glossy enamel. But first you need to prepare the working compositions. For matte enamel, take:

100 parts by weight of enamel;
50 parts by weight of hardener;
30 parts by weight of thinner.

For glossy enamel, 70 parts of the hardener are taken. The rest of the components in the same amount. For gloss, always use a slow thinner to ensure good flow.

Painting MDF panels should be done in a relatively spacious room if they are internal structures (for example, facades or wall elements). The house from the outside should be finished during the warm season. The enamel consumption should be approximately 150g / m2. Medium Density Fiberboard or MDF dries completely in 24 hours.

To obtain a gloss, polish should be done after 3 days. By this time, all polymerization processes will be completed. With the help of special additives on the surface of the product, you can create the effects of mother-of-pearl, metallic, and get corrugated waves.

Wet

You can paint MDF panels with alkyd or polyurethane enamel, as well as powder mixtures. Wet technology involves the use of a sprayer with the appropriate pressure. If the paint is applied in two layers, intermediate sanding is necessary. The layers are no more than 120 microns thick.

The painting surfaces must be free from small debris, dust, insects. If they hit, they should be promptly eliminated using a tool such as tweezers. The smudges formed on the painted surface after drying are removed with a clerical knife or fine-grained emery paper.

Powder

Can MDF be painted in a different way? Yes, there are special powder mixtures that are sprayed onto the work surface. After that, the product is subjected to high temperatures until the paint is completely melted. This method provides for obtaining an almost perfectly smooth surface.

Powder coating technology involves spraying dry microscopic particles onto the surface.

Drying

You can paint MDF panels by any method. Drying completes any finishing process. It is carried out in compliance with certain conditions:

ambient air temperature no more than 50 ° C;
relative humidity less than 80%.

The duration of the final stage depends on the environmental conditions. It can be from 5 hours to a day. Painted MDF board will dry faster at lower temperatures and air humidity.

Regardless of what can be used to paint the wall panels, adherence to the stages, conditions of the technological process will allow you to get a rich color, an even surface, save time and costs. It is better to automate all the work using special paint and varnish equipment.

How to paint MDF correctly (2 videos)

What you need for work (20 photos)

Painting MDF boards is a very time-consuming procedure that will require adherence to technology and many rules. It should be noted right away that such work takes a long time, it may take more than one week. In any case, everything can be done independently, while obtaining the necessary decorative surface.

Why do this?

Many people ask the question: is it possible to paint MDF at home, and why is it necessary? The answer to the first part of the question is yes. Indeed, you can paint the panels with your own hands. But right away it is worth making a reservation: if there is no spray booth at hand, then the result is not always perfect. And the staining procedure is necessary for the following reasons:

The painted elements become more resistant to high temperatures and humidity. Therefore, they are allowed to be used in the kitchen and in the bathroom, where they can fulfill different roles.
By decorating, it is possible to diversify the dull interior, refresh the look of the room. The shade is chosen based on design ideas.
Painting MDF panels is also needed in order to extend their service life.

Painting MDF allows not only to diversify a boring interior, but also to extend the life of the product.

Of course, this option also has some disadvantages. For example, this procedure is sometimes much more expensive than using decorative films. In addition, the surface is prone to discoloration.

The choice of materials for painting

In principle, all paints for MDF are selected taking into account the composition of the material. And this is, first of all, a fine wood fraction, which means that paint and varnish solutions for wood are suitable for work. But to obtain a really high-quality coating, it is advisable to use special mixtures.

When choosing materials for painting MDF, it is worth paying attention not only to the color, but also to the purpose of the paint.

Polyurethane enamels

This material should be preferred for the following reasons:

The coating turns out to be wear-resistant, withstand the effects of household chemicals.
The solution does not have an unpleasant odor, which makes it possible to carry out work in a cramped home environment.
It is allowed to apply the mixture with a spray gun, roller and brush.
Painting MDF with enamel is done independently, this procedure does not require professional skills.

Naturally, when choosing this material, they pay attention to the manufacturer. It must be a well-known brand that is sold in specialty stores. By purchasing goods from an unknown manufacturer, there is a high probability of getting a fake.

Advice! If it is not possible to choose a polyurethane composition, then pay attention to alkyd enamels and paints (oil and acrylic).

When choosing a paint, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer

Varnish

Thus, the question of how to paint MDF panels is no longer a problem. But another dilemma arises - the surface needs additional protection, how can this be done?

Indeed, in order to increase resistance to mechanical stress, to protect against chemical compounds, varnish is used. And for such work, a two-component polyurethane compound is especially suitable, which has all the desired parameters.

Stages and technology of painting

The procedure for painting MDF with your own hands is carried out in several stages. They can be divided as follows:

Grinding.
Putty.
Padding.
Coloring.
Varnishing (patina).

Completion of each stage is a guarantee that the result will turn out as it was intended.

Grinding

Work begins with surface sanding. This is a rather time-consuming activity that must be done carefully.

The panels are sanded with 120 to 240 grit sandpaper. The process is carried out in several stages and with different materials. Everything must be done very carefully, not staying long in one area. This procedure is carried out in order to remove small irregularities, as well as remove fine pile, which covers the entire surface.

The MDF sanding procedure allows you to get rid of small irregularities on the surface of the slab

On a note! If there are milled areas on the front side, then it is better not to touch them. Chances are good that the sandpaper will smooth out the corners of the pattern.

Puttying

Puttying MDF for painting pursues the goal of correcting the existing shortcomings of the panel. It happens that when sanding or due to improper storage, cracks or dents appear on the surface. To hide them, putty is carried out. Of course, if there are no such problems, then this stage is skipped.

The technology itself looks like this: the acrylic mixture is carefully applied to the desired area and leveled with a rubber spatula. After drying, they must be sanded.

Padding

It is better to prime the surface of the MDF board with a spray gun, then the primer layer lays down more evenly

This stage is mandatory. It is conventionally divided into two processes:

Applying the first coat of primer
- This is done with a spray gun, so they prepare the room and place for work. It is better to close the rest of the items in advance with cellophane wrap.
- The mixture is sprayed over the entire surface of the panel in an even layer. This is done in order to raise the remaining lint and reduce the absorbency of the base materials.
- Further, when the plate is dry, it is subjected to grinding with fine sandpaper.
Coating with the second layer
- The second layer is applied in order to consolidate the result and remove the remaining blemishes.
- Drying should take about a day, after which the panel painted with a primer is sanded.

Dyeing

Can MDF be painted with a brush and roller? Yes, but this should be done very carefully. It is highly likely that streaks and streaks will remain on the surface. Therefore, it is best to use a spray gun.

The technology itself resembles priming. The paint is applied in several layers, each of which is pre-dried. It is important to achieve an excellent result, so the mixture is sprayed from the milled areas to the edges, and then passed along and diagonally. It is much more convenient to paint smooth panels.

To paint MDF, you can use brushes and a roller, but to obtain an even layer, it is better to use a spray gun.

On a note! In order to understand in more detail the drying time of the solution and its amount, it is necessary to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. And also select the desired operating mode for the sprayer.

If you want semi-antique

If there is a desire to give the surface a more expressive look, to age it a little, then they resort to patinating. It is advisable to do this when there are drawings and patterns.

Patina is applied in this way:

pass through the selected area with a sponge dipped in the mixture;
leave to dry completely;
the painted area is polished;
proceed to the final stage.

The effect of artificial aging can be created independently by patinating the surface.

Varnishing

The procedure is performed according to the instructions:

The varnish is prepared for use.
The first layer is applied at the rate of about 150 grams per square meter.
After waiting for the first layer to dry well, apply a new layer.
The drying process is repeated.
Final sanding is started. First, coarse sandpaper is passed over the surface, then a smaller one is used. To avoid rolling lumps, spray the area with water.
The panel is left for several days (4 to 7) and polished. For this, it is better to use a power tool.

There are many tips on how to paint MDF correctly. The main thing is to follow a clear plan and be accurate.

The corridor is sheathed with MDF panels imitating light wood from floor to ceiling. The thickness of the panels is about 5 mm, I don't see any film on top, it looks like a regular paper-cardboard layer on top. We touched it a little with our hands, decided to wash it off with a damp sponge for dishes, rubbed it here and there a dozen times and rubbed it to a light spot in the middle of the wall, okay if I stopped, otherwise I rubbed it in a couple more places
The first thought is to cover the entire corridor with stain or varnish, you can darken the color a little, this is not important. I am inclined to paint with a roller. What can the men use to paint over the worn out places and keep the overall color as much as possible. Can be varnished with a touch. Can they cover MDF? I don’t understand how I did it.
Thanks for the advice and Happy New Year everyone.

This article discusses the question of the possibility of painting products such as MDF wall panels, whether it is possible to paint MDF, as well as the process of carrying out such work at home.

Reasons for the formation of defects

There are a number of reasons why it may be necessary to paint MDF panels, these include:

Mechanical damage to the surface as a result of impact with a sharp object or other material. The top layer of the MDF panel consists of laminated or plain paper with paint applied to it; when exposed to a solid object, the film breaks, which exposes the core of the entire product;
Burnout of paint, loss of color brightness. This deformation results from exposure to ultraviolet rays and atmospheric air, which contains a small amount of moisture. Over time, the coating becomes dull, loses its shine and original appearance;
Temperature changes also negatively affect the external state of the surface of MDF panels, since the internal structure consists of wood, which absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and at the same time swells over the entire area. When the temperature rises, the MDF dries up and can crack at the same time, besides, the glue contained in the composition of the panel loses its ability from moisture, which leads to peeling of paper, lamination and shavings.

Painting process of MDF panels

In order to prepare MDF panels for painting at home, you will need:

Sandpaper for surface preparation and removal of gloss or varnish;
Solvent for degreasing surfaces from glue and liquid residues;
Dry rags or other lint-free cloth.

These materials are necessary for pre-treatment of MDF panels for painting and for sealing cracks and scratches on the laminate.

After the surface has been processed and leveled, it must be wiped with a dry cloth and degreased with a chemical solvent, which will displace and evaporate all water, washing away dust and dirt.

How to paint and update MDF panels

Thus, subject to the entire dyeing technology, the question of whether it is possible to paint MDF panels becomes quite solvable at home.

You don't have to buy new furniture to freshen up your kitchen interior. A more economical option is to paint old facades, especially since modern materials allow this procedure to be performed at a fairly high level. In this article, we paint facades using standard technology, which is used by many furniture makers due to the excellent quality and durability of the result.

It is wrong to say that painting the facades of cabinet furniture is a simple process. If you want to get a durable coating without visual defects, then be prepared to spend money on the necessary materials, as well as be meticulous and patient when preparing the part for painting and direct application of paints and varnishes.

Painting furniture fronts - an easy way to restore a kitchen

As a rule, furniture for the kitchen is made of wood or MDF, which show themselves well during operation. To paint these materials we need:

sandpaper of different grain sizes;
scotch-bright;
a tool for applying paint (spray gun);
anti-silicone (degreaser);
primer;
solvents;
auto enamel;

Sandpaper and tape-bright

Sandpaper will be used at almost all stages of painting MDF facades or wood products for surface sanding. The grain size of emery is selected taking into account the technological process:

P220-280 - Preparation of the base for the primer;
P320 - removal of shagreen soil;
P500 - surface treatment prior to paint application.

Advice! It is best to use foam-based sandpaper. It is flexible enough to handle all façade irregularities well.

Scotch Bright (Sanding Felt) P800 is used for the final sanding of the surface prior to painting. The larger Scotch Bright abrasive (P220-280) may be needed for complex façade elements such as interior corners or decor.

Painting tool (spray gun)

Kitchen fronts painted with a brush or roller usually do not have a perfect surface. At the same time, the spray gun allows you to achieve a smooth and uniform coating structure. In addition, such a tool can apply not only paint, but also a primer, which makes the priming process faster.

Note! There are two types of spray guns - electric and pneumatic. For the former, it is enough to have an outlet on hand. The latter are powered by air, so in this case you need a compressor.

The optimal nozzle diameter is 1.2-1.3 mm. A gun with such a nozzle will allow you to evenly spray both soil and paint.

Pneumatic gun for painting furniture facades

Surface degreaser

Degreasing the surface before applying primers and paints is of great importance. If you skip this stage, then the final result is likely to have defects that can only be eliminated by completely repainting the facade.

For wood and MDF, you must use a degreaser that contains an organic solvent. This tool is often called "antisilicone" because it effectively removes not only various oils and fats, but also polyorganosiloxanes (silicones).

Degreaser (anti-silicone)

Primers

To ensure good adhesion of the paint to the wood surface, the part must be primed. For such purposes, three types of primer are used:

for plastic;
epoxy;
filling.

Don't be surprised at the name "for plastic". This primer is also great for wood surfaces, which many manufacturers indicate in the description of this product. The main task of such a primer is to increase the adhesion of the facade material with the paint.

Epoxy primer is needed to insulate the material with which the wood was originally opened or impregnated. A porous filler primer is used to level the surface before direct paint application.

Note! If your kitchen material is natural wood, you don't need to use an epoxy primer. And for painting MDF facades, all types of primer should be applied in turn: for plastic, epoxy, porous.

A plastic primer that is also suitable for wood and MDF

paints and varnishes

For furniture facades, the best choice is auto enamel. After drying, it creates a beautiful glossy surface that does not change its appearance over time.

There are two types of automotive enamel:

alkyd;
acrylic.

Alkyd enamel is a derivative of alkyd resin. Its peculiarity is rather fast polymerization at normal air temperature. Such paint is cheaper than acrylic paint, but it needs additional varnishing.

Advice! To open the facade, it is advisable to use automotive varnish marked HS (HighSolids), which indicates a high concentration of solid particles and a minimum content of solvents.

Acrylic auto enamel is the most popular paint among car owners. When working with such material, there is no need to apply varnish, since after drying the surface becomes uniformly glossy.

Motorists often use a combination of a special basecoat and acrylic lacquer to achieve an interesting color effect such as metallic. If you paint MDF furniture with similar compositions, then it will look very stylish and expensive.

The base enamel will give the kitchen facade an original shade

Solvents for primers and paints

It is possible to dilute the primer and paint to the desired consistency with universal solvents 646 and 647, however, it is considered more correct to select an individual thinner for each composition. For example, for acrylic-based car enamels it is better to use acrylic R-12, and for base enamels the seller will most likely recommend purchasing a solvent that matches the composition of the base.

In addition to diluting the primer and paint, the solvent will also be needed to clean the spray gun and workspace from paint and varnish residues.

Universal thinner for paints and varnishes

Preparing the facade for painting

The process of painting furniture facades made of MDF or wood always begins with surface preparation, which includes removing the top layer (gloss), priming and sanding the part.

Removing the upper gloss

As a rule, the outer layer of furniture facades is a gloss, which is achieved through the use of varnish or paint. If you apply a new coat of paint to a glossy surface, it will weakly adhere due to low adhesion. To achieve the desired adhesion, the top layer is processed with sandpaper and adhesive tape (in hard-to-reach places) with gradation P220-280.

Note! MDF facades are usually covered with PVC film on top. It must be completely removed, after which you can start processing the furniture with emery.

It is not necessary to remove all the gloss from the facade. It is enough to fill the risk along the entire plane, that is, to achieve the necessary roughness for better adhesion of the surface to the primer.

Priming stages

Before proceeding with the application of the primer, the plane should be degreased by wiping it with anti-silicone. After that, you can no longer touch the part with your hands.

The direct priming process consists of the following stages:

Surface treatment with primer for plastic.

Start coating the part with a primer from the ends and hard-to-reach places, and then go to the main plane. To create good adhesion of paint to MDF, it is enough to apply 2 coats of such a primer.

Advice! To obtain an even coating, apply the next coat of primer perpendicular to the previous one. This rule is also true when applying paints and varnishes.

Treatment of the part with epoxy primer.

Epoxy primer is applied to MDF in 1-2 coats. Drying time at room temperature is usually 24 hours.

Porous filler primer.

The color of the filling primer is selected depending on the color of the paint. If it is supposed to use light colors, then it is better to use a white primer. The number of layers depends on the nature of the plane. For a smooth and even surface, it is enough to apply 1.5 coats of primer (spray + full coat).

Like paint, primer has a different palette of colors.

Finishing sanding

The paint must be applied on a perfectly flat surface. If, after priming, in some places there are uncovered pores, they should be repaired with a one-component putty. Many may have a reasonable question: why not putty the facade before priming it? The fact is that the soil itself is capable of eliminating minor defects in the plane, so you will not need to putty the entire part.

Finish sanding before painting the kitchen facades made of MDF or wood using P500 sandpaper. With its help, excess putty is removed and shagreen is removed - visually noticeable unevenness of the coating.

Important! When sanding the primed surface with sandpaper, do not apply too much force to avoid breaking the finish. Take special care when processing the edges of the ends, since it is in these places that the material usually has the thinnest layer.

After sanding, the entire plane should be passed with tape-bright. In this case, you can not control the force, since the sanding felt is a fairly soft material and is not capable of severely damaging the surface.

Untreated shagreen after painting will be visible to the naked eye

Immediately before applying paint, the part should be degreased with an anti-silicone, after which it will not be superfluous to walk over the surface with a special sticky napkin to remove the remaining dust.

Paint application

The paint is prepared according to the instructions attached to it and taking into account the peculiarities of the spray gun operation. The flow should not be set too high so that the spray area is small. This will help to work out the facade more thoroughly and reduce material consumption.

As in the case of applying primer, you need to start painting the facades from the ends, after which the base is processed. Usually 2-3 coats of paint are enough to obtain an even color. Before applying the next layer, let the previous one dry for 10-15 minutes.

Advice! If you have never dealt with applying paint with a spray gun before, then it is better to pre-practice on a "test" piece before moving on to painting kitchen facades.

The spray gun allows you to evenly distribute the paint over the entire surface

Surface varnishing

The varnish is applied to the facade in the same way as paint, in two or three layers. The purpose of the first layer (light spray) is to create a tacky surface to prevent sagging from subsequent thicker layers.

Important! It is necessary to process the part with varnish in a non-dusty room, using clean clothes.

The interval between application of layers is on average 5-10 minutes. If you did everything correctly, the result should be a smooth glossy surface with a mirror effect.

Lacquered kitchen facades

Creation of additional effects: glizal and raindrops

To make the painted facades in the kitchen look not only fresh and neat, but also original, you can add interesting effects using glazed (translucent paint) or a regular water spray.

Glizal is diluted with water according to the instructions and applied to a pre-primed surface in 2 layers. Using a damp sponge, textured roller or hard brush, you can create a unique pattern on the facade. It is important to take into account that the creation of a drawing is possible only during the first 30-60 minutes, until the paint begins to dry. After the paint has dried, the part is opened with a transparent varnish.

Note! Glizal takes longer to dry than standard paints and varnishes, so varnishing may have to be postponed for several days.

DIY glizal decoration of furniture facades

To obtain the effect of raindrops, you need two colors of paint, for example, black and blue metallic (choose the color scheme taking into account the interior of your kitchen). A darker coating is applied to the prepared substrate and, after drying, the part is covered with water using a spray gun. Without waiting for the drops to dry, the next color is applied on top with a spray gun. In this case, the paint supply should be minimal in order to achieve a light spraying. After the layer is completely dry, the surface is sanded with adhesive tape (P1200 or P1500) and varnished.

Painting of furniture facades is a rather laborious process. If you have never encountered such work before, then first it is better to fill your hand on old unnecessary furniture. In the absence of such an opportunity, it is better to turn to specialists in order to avoid a senseless waste of money and effort.

Video: painting technologies for MDF facades

Manufacturing process of painted MDF facade:

Painting with the effect of raindrops - "silver rain":