How to plaster walls around windows. How to plaster window slopes? Surface work

Registration door slopes- mandatory part overhaul or finishing of a newly built house. Classic design today one can consider their plastering. Although this method takes a lot of time, it is the most reliable: with such a finish, no voids remain. Although this is not an easy task, if the technology is observed, plastering the slopes with your own hands can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

How to plaster the slopes

What kind of plaster is better to plaster the slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.

Technology

Slope plastering begins after the surface of the main walls has been leveled. The work is going to be dirty, therefore it is desirable door leaf, gender and door frame cover with foil, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Preparation

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, remove poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material. If the doors changed old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if she holds up well, she is knocked down.

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also peeled off: the plaster does not adhere well to it. After - dust and dirt are cleaned off.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do it now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), cut off the excess with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with an ordinary stationery for paper.

If plastering will be cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or with a brush or roller.

Setting up the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, to obtain an even and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once well secured, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always bulges up and causes a lot of inconvenience.

There are several ways to fix the corner:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how even the corner is exposed. Check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by sliding your finger along the junction.

There is another way of attaching the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but when plastering it is not used: the hats get in the way.

Second guide - doorjamb... When installing the doors, they were exposed exactly, so this is a good reference point. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: both the edge is smooth, and it slides well, and quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wood plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove the excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given on the technique of applying putty for finishing.

DIY rough plaster of slopes

The process of applying plaster to the slope is no different: a solution is poured onto a dust-free and moistened surface. Do it with a wide spatula or a painting bucket - as you are used to. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.

Leading with a rule or pattern along the guides, swinging from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, it is possible not to achieve a particularly flat surface, but it is imperative to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is final

Some problems can arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressing, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there are usually no problems. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, mortar, especially cement-sandy, "sticks" badly. In this case, you need to pre-soak it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

Processing may be required even if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker brick, for example). Only in this case, the primer should further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special formulations Knauf - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile glue to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive adheres remarkably to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.

If all this seems very difficult to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortar or spatula needed and the result is great. Or you can do it. The view is almost the same, but to do faster. Then you can.

Finishing layer

After a while, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. Too early to start leveling it is impossible - the solution "floats", loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not float.

For a fine leveling, the mortar is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is flat. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Grout

This stage creates a perfectly flat surface. It is possible to rub the plaster only after the solution has set. For this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if grouting can start, take some mortar from the wall with your fingers and rub. If it crumbles, you can work, if it is smeared, we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or a template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this float, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be putty. But this way your do-it-yourself plaster of slopes takes on a finished look. But once again, this is not necessary.

This video describes how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If the slope is painted further, the putty is aligned perfectly. For this, two layers are applied: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm.With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove are eliminated cement mortar... After finishing putty dries, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for gluing wallpaper. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If, when installing the door, the old slopes were slightly damaged and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. You only need to throw a solution into the cavity and level it with a long trowel (spatula).

Doorway plaster

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and methods of their installation are different.

Plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).

The guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second on the left, they are fixed. It is most convenient to secure them with clamps. If there are no clamps, powerfully use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the base on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.

When replacing windows or performing repair work in the room, it is also necessary to work with slopes. Plastering slopes is a very laborious and complex business, so you can do it better only when you have at least the initial skills of putty or experience in carrying out plastering works... Without experience, it is unlikely that it will be possible to perform high-quality plaster on the slopes. However, if you have the desire and perseverance, you can do the job efficiently and fairly quickly.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare or purchase all necessary tools and materials. Some tools will be needed for sure, and the need for some is dictated by the initial state of the slope and other factors. It is recommended to arrange before starting work workplace... There must be access to sockets near this workplace in order to connect a mixer, which will mix the plaster mixture.

In order not to stain the floor and surrounding surfaces, it is recommended to lay big piece thick oilcloth on the floor, and put all the tools and materials on it.

Thus, the room will be clean, besides, it will not be difficult to clean the workplace after the repair is completed.

Selection and preparation of instruments

What tools will you need exactly to level the slopes with your own hands:

Spatula in assortment (preferably several pieces - 10 cm, 25 cm, spatula, the length of which is slightly more than the width of the slope).
The level, the length of which is slightly less height windows or doors, the slopes of which need to be processed. If only door slopes will be plastered, it is advisable to choose a level of one and a half meters, if both window and door slopes, a level of 1 m is suitable. large area using a small level is not recommended.
Rule. Its length must be greater than the length of the slope. If there is no experience with the rules, it is better to choose aluminum, it is lightweight and comfortable to work with.
Bucket for mixing and washing tools.
Cloths and brushes for cleaning tools.
A square designed for setting the lighthouse at an angle of 90 °.
Rubber or rubberized gloves for hand protection.
Half-rails or trowels for comfortable work with a slope.
Container for primer (wide trays are convenient).
Primer brushes, bristles and rollers.
Mixer for mixing the mixture and beaters to it.

Depending on the selected sequence of work and the method of handling the slope, you may also need the following tools:

dowels;
self-tapping screws;
hammer;
borax;
etc.

Purchase of materials

To level the slopes on windows or doors, you will need the following materials:

Primer. You can use quartz, or designed for deep penetration. It is not recommended to dilute the primer with water - when plastering, maximum adhesion between surfaces is required.
Water. It is recommended to bring sufficient water to the workplace before starting work. The larger the layer of plaster falls on the slopes, the faster the water intended for mixing the mixture will go away. It is recommended to have 2 buckets - one for mixing the plaster and the other for cleaning the tools.
Any starting gypsum putty (ideal for plastering door and window slopes. The mixture has high plasticity, easy to apply, comfortable to work with. It does not dry out too quickly, besides, it is easy to wash and wash off).

How is the plastering of slopes

The technologies of how to plaster door slopes and how to work with window slopes are practically the same. Difficulties arise when working with the upper slope due to its extremely inconvenient location in space. After completing work on the side slopes, it is easier to work with the upper slope. Firstly, there is already a little experience in plastering slopes, and secondly, since the side slopes are adjacent to the upper one, part of the work on the formation of corners has already been completed.

Fasteners for beacons

Slopes are plastering along the installed guides. Such guides can be long rules, even and smooth. wooden beams, long pieces of profiles and the like. It is much easier to carry out work, relying on beacons. To install the guides on the side slopes, it is most convenient to use a starting mixture for plaster. Several spatulas of the mixture are applied to the wall and the beacon is attached directly to the plaster. It dries up, and the slope is plastered over the lighthouse.

As for the top slope, it is best to mount the beacon with brackets, profiles or dowel mountings. It is more difficult, but more reliable. A non-dried lighthouse can slide off the upper slope, and thus the plane will be plastered crooked. The same rule applies when leveling slopes. doorways.

Thus, all planes will be processed sequentially. After installing the beacon, you should make sure that it is level. Since the beacon gives flatness to the plane, you should make sure that it is level. To do this, a level is applied to one of the sides of the beacon and the guide is leveled. After that, they must be left to dry to the wall. After about an hour, you can start plastering the slopes.

Slope preparation

Before leveling the slopes with plaster, watch out for a few preparatory steps.

These include:

cutting off with a clerical knife protruding assembly or glue foam, which was used when installing the window;
pasting the window with masking tape and stretch film to avoid getting plaster on it;
wiping dust from slopes (to improve adhesion), windowsill and windows;
priming the entire slope.

All this can be done while the lighthouses dry up. At the same time, it is recommended to organize a workplace, prepare a mixture for plaster, trowel and other tools that will be needed when working with a slope.

Plaster preparation

Before mixing the mixture, be sure to read the instructions on the package. Manufacturers give different recommendations for mixing specific putty mixtures. Therefore, to achieve the best result and reliability, all manufacturer's recommendations should be adhered to. When mixing the mixture, it does not matter whether the door or window slope will be plastered. It is important that the mixture has a consistency, thanks to which it will not drain or slide off the slope. At the same time, it will be comfortable to work with it and there will be time before drying to level the plane.

Stir the plaster with a mixer. It is best to try what consistency it is with a small spatula - 10 or 15 cm.

Bucket in which the slope plaster is mixed front door, interior doors or the windows must be clean. Before mixing a new portion of the mixture, the bucket should be washed with a brush and rinsed.

Leveling the plane of the slope using the mixture

When the surface is prepared and the mixture for plastering, they begin to apply it to the slope. The process of plastering door slopes does not differ from the processing of window frames, the technology for carrying out the work is the same. Using a spatula, the mixture is applied to the slope. It is recommended to handle small areas, 20-30 cm each.
First, the mixture is applied to them, and then it is leveled with a half-scraper or a wide spatula. Hold a trowel or a scraper, with which the slope is leveled, should be at an angle of 90 ° to the plane of the slope, perpendicular. Thus, it will turn out to achieve a flat and smooth slope.

The door itself will hinder movement while working with a slope, and there is a high probability of getting it dirty. It is best to work with slopes after installing the box.

Final works

After the slopes are plastered, it is necessary to wait until it is completely or partially dry and remove the lighthouse. Whichever method it is attached to the wall, it should be removed in the direction from the slope to the wall, so as not to damage the plaster layer. After removing the lighthouse, it will be noticeable that a small influx of plaster mixture has formed on the wall. It needs to be removed. If the plaster layer is still soft, you may be able to do it with a trowel. If not, you can use coarse sandpaper (numbered 40-80).

After the slopes are plastered, paint perforated corners can be installed on them. The corners help to form an even corner and also protect the wall from chipping pieces of putty. After installing the corners, you can putty the slope with a finishing plaster mixture.

According to the above scheme, you can align the jambs of doorways and window slopes. Working with plaster is rather dirty, therefore it is recommended to carry out it in clothes that completely cover arms and legs. After finishing work, all tools should be washed with a brush under running water and then wipe dry (excluding power tools). This way the tools will last longer.

It is recommended to carry out work on plastering slopes with your own hands in the absence of any experience in performing repair work after watching the training videos.
If possible, you should consult with those who are engaged in renovation works or .

Instructions for a beginner on finishing slopes with plaster - video

Plastering slopes is one of the oldest repair procedures, differing markedly from creating an even coating on larger surfaces (walls, ceilings, partitions, etc.). A beautifully and firmly "withdrawn" slope gives door and window openings finished appearance and contributes to their long service life.

When and how to plaster the slopes on windows and doors?

If you have replaced windows or doors (which is already worthy of a separate congratulation), their installation must be completed with a beautiful frame. For this, not only the classical technique of plastered slopes is suitable. Wall sections adjacent to the window or door on the balcony can be trim with siding or special panels that come with PVC windows. Used frequently wood paneling openings, it is functional and beautiful.

However, plastering slopes - with your own hands or with the help of craftsmen - makes it possible to subsequently repair the room according to your own taste, without "binding" to the color and texture of plastic or wooden inserts... The plastered slope is performed with different geometry, it can visually expand the boundaries of the room, improve its lighting. In addition, plastered slopes are much easier to repair - if special (and expensive!) Panels are damaged, it will be difficult to get a replacement for them. Especially if the dent is in plastic slope or a crack in the wooden plank formed several years after the repair.

Step-by-step instructions with exclusive photos and videos.

DIY plastering of slopes - high-quality preparation

The most important preparatory procedure before the design of the slopes is the smooth and accurate installation of windows and doors.... If the door / window structure is exposed with the slightest deviation from the strict vertical position, no slope will help it, everything will have to be redone again. Yes, with the removal of glass panes, dismantling of the frame and pieces of plaster all over the room! Equally important is the depth accuracy of new doors and windows. The fact is that the size of the openings is usually several times the thickness of the most representative doors, not to mention the windows.

That is, there are constructive possibilities to "move" the boundaries of the room in one direction or another. Thus, the dimensions of both the slopes themselves and the window sills are set.

Of course, windows should not be exposed "flush" with the front wall, otherwise their glass will be in rain streams and stains of dirt all the time. Inside the room, the frames also do not move all the way, who will like the reduction in internal space. Therefore, it is so common to install new frames and doors at the midpoint of the opening - but their strict intermediate position has no repair need. It is quite permissible to install windows "with a shift" from the midpoint, in accordance with their own ideas about their finished appearance.

The sill is always installed before the plastering begins. The sill must be strictly horizontal, up to the test with a "glass of water" - the spilled liquid should not drain in any direction, the moving shutters must open freely and easily. Platbands on the doors, on the contrary, are mounted on an already plastered surface - then they will fit snugly to the jamb, their fit will be minimal

The composition of the plaster when working indoors and outdoors is significantly different. Internal slopes can be plastered with a mixture of alabaster and sand (in a ratio of 1: 2), sand and cement (1: 3), cement with alabaster and sand (1: 1: 2). If you decide to use special dry mixes, it has proven itself best Rotaban, it is easier to level and dries faster.

External slopes (from the outside of windows and doors) are plastered exclusively cement compositions... They are exposed to atmospheric precipitation and strong temperature changes - therefore, an additive to the solution will be required liquid glass and astringent additives to give it extra durability. External plastering of windows is associated with work at a height and should be completely safe - all the slopes of our world do not have broken legs.

Plastering on windows - step by step instructions

Plastering window slopes with your own hands requires a considerable amount of tools and materials. You will need even more repair skills - if for you difference between plaster and putty unknown, it is better to hire the masters and pay them for quality work.The first steps in mastering the intricacies of plaster are best done not on slopes.

Plaster on windows - step by step scheme

Step 1: Calculate the opening

So, we have a brand new and for sure installed window, comfortable and wide window sill- and the ruins of the walls around all this beauty. You can plaster the opening at right angles to the plane of the window, using the technology of the Middle Ages (then the very presence of windows in the room was a feat). But it is much more interesting to learn how to plaster the slopes on windows and doors with an increase in the illumination of the room.

This repair technique has special name"angle of dawn", in fact, means the expansion of the window (less often door) opening into the room. Thus, there is more light in the room, as well as difficulties with plastering. But the result in the form of strict lines of the enlarged opening is worth it.

Step 2: Layout and preparation of the opening

The angle from the frame to the edge of the slope is set with a goniometer, its value should be the same on the sides of the window. Do not determine this angle "by eye", otherwise the repair result is unlikely to please your eyes at the end of the work. The amount of expansion is from 1 to 2.5 cm for every 10 cm of the opening thickness. If the distance from the window to inner wall is 25 cm, then the "expansion displacement" will be from 2.5 to 6.5 cm. These points are fixed at the bottom and top of the opening with deep risks.

It is necessary to prepare the base of the slope for plastering. For this, all layers are removed. old paint, previous filler and other contaminants. Do not be afraid of deep removal of the previous building layers - the cement-sand mortar needs space for strong adhesion to the surface. Cement and sand plaster fits well on all common Construction Materials- concrete, brick, aerated concrete. But the composition pre-primer, with which the walls are treated before plastering, must necessarily take into account the specifics of their material.

Step 3: Internal vapor barrier

The joint between the window (door) frame and the slope is already insulated with polyurethane foam or rough plaster. It is necessary to cut off excess foam and carefully process the entire joint line vapor barrier film or a silicone based sealant. Internal vapor barrier will prevent the windows from fogging up during strong temperature changes - it is performed in just 5 minutes, it is inexpensive, and benefits for years.

Step 4: lighthouses as the basis for impeccable precision

When plastering slopes, the exposed beacons are very different from their counterparts used for concreting floors or laying bricks. In fact, these are rather limiters made of straight and wide slats. They are nailed (screwed) tightly to the surface of the inner wall - exactly according to the risks taken after the goniometer. The edges of the planks create a border for the future plaster and protect the corner from accidental damage while the mortar is not dry.

Accurate installation of lighthouses is the basis of a quality slope. It is better to re-nail the rail than to get an opening with a deviation from the desired values. After the installation of the lighthouses, the integrity of the vapor barrier layer is checked, the plastering surface is once again treated with a primer for proper adhesion (adhesion) with the solution. It is better to apply the primer not with a spray gun, but with a brush, this increases the coverage of hard-to-reach areas.

Step 5: Plaster directly

The solution for the slope is first applied in small portions along the perimeter of the laths, with strong movements of the spatula. Next, we begin filling the opening, and the procedure depends on its depth. For a cement-sand mortar, a layer of up to 5-6 cm is optimal, if the depth of the opening is greater, the mortar is thrown in several steps.

When the slope is filled with a "slab" mortar, the excess is removed with a precise and single movement of the aluminum rule. The apparent simplicity of such a "stroke" requires a lot of experience. After leveling the mortar exactly along the beacons from all three plastered sides, you must wait until it dries. Further, the laths-beacons are removed, the places of their installation are leveled with a solution. Remains of the plaster mixture are diluted to a semi-liquid state and rubbed into the surface of a slightly hardened slope with gentle movements of a float. This reduces the risk of new plaster cracking when it dries completely.

High-quality finishing of the slopes after the installation of the window structure is an important stage in the final work, on the result of which the aesthetics of the house depends on the interior and outside... How to plaster the slopes on the windows and do the work at the proper level, we will tell you below.

Advantages of the plastering method

The plaster of window slopes does not lose its relevance along with traditional ways, which involve the use of panels made of plastic, wood or drywall. Knowing how to make slopes, you can save well on construction works Oh. The method has a number of significant advantages:

low material price;
strength and stability;
long service life.

The plastering method of finishing slopes significantly saves money

Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes is another big plus of the method that allows even a beginner to cope with the work, since the technology is simple to execute. In addition to the advantages, it is worth mentioning the disadvantages of plastering:

average thermal insulation;
the risk of mold and moisture formation;
the appearance of cracks over time.

The method is suitable for houses where they are installed as wooden windows and plastic double-glazed windows.

Plaster mortar

Plastering of external and internal slopes is carried out with self-made mixtures or ready-made store options. It is advisable to purchase already prepared options, where the correct proportions are observed and there is no need to measure the number of components for the mixture made.

Slope plaster homemade will require the presence of binders in the composition, which are often: clay, cement or gypsum filler. Depending on the number of constituents, the solution can be simple or complex in composition. It is very important to make exact amount components to obtain a high-quality mixture, otherwise the solution may turn out to be greasy and quickly crack after drying. A solution that is too poor in composition will also not bring anything good: it will turn out to be fragile, as a result of which the slopes will need to be repaired after installation.

Self-production plaster mix requires precise proportions

In order not to be mistaken in the consistency of the future mixture, be guided by the following signs:

a well-mixed composition will lightly cling to the shoulder blade;
poorly mixed (fatty) will cling strongly;
a lean mixture does not exhibit adhesion properties at all.

To make the mixture, you can use slaked lime, which in correct proportions ideal for wood and stone substrates. You can only use the slaked version, otherwise the surface may be swollen... You can buy a component at a hardware store. You can independently perform lime slaking in this way:

Slaked lime is often used when plastering slopes

Pour lime of quick slaking into a container the right sizes and fill with water so that the lime is completely covered with liquid. An active evolution of vapors begins for several minutes, after which we add a little more water and mix the mixture thoroughly.
Medium slaked lime is poured in an amount of ¼ of the container and filled with water to half the volume. Vapors begin to stand out after 30 minutes, at the end we dilute with water and stir.
Lime of slow slaking is not poured with water, but only moistened. The quenching process takes more than 60 minutes.

You can also use gypsum, but you should take into account the efficiency of the work, since the mixture with this substance dries up within 5-10 minutes. It is important to consider that gypsum mortar it is not resistant to a humid environment, therefore it is advisable to use it for internal works in dry rooms. One of the durable materials is cement, which adheres to the surface within 15 minutes and dries completely in a day.

When choosing how to plaster the slopes on the windows inside the building and on the outer parts, pay attention to the strength properties of the composite components so that the slopes will last for a long time.

Preparing the work surface

How to properly plaster the slopes on the windows and get an excellent result depends on good surface preparation. Small violation important stage will be the main cause of cracked or fallen plaster. So:

Construction beacons are used to level the surface of the slopes.

To properly plaster the slopes on the windows with your own hands, take everything into service preparatory stages for achievement High Quality works. To accurately level the surface, use construction beacons or a plaster profile... Visually even walls can play a cruel joke at the end of all work, so be sure to install guides along which the surface will be leveling. The lighthouses will serve as a guarantee as a leveling element, the use of which will avoid alterations and additional costs in the future.

Lighthouse plaster

Tools for plastering windows

The main points about how to plaster the slopes on the windows have already been announced and it's time to talk about the fixtures. In order to achieve excellent results, you cannot do without a set of tools and related equipment. In work you will need:

laser level to set the profile (beacons);
foam if the window gaps are poorly sealed during installation;
building goat or small stepladder;
dense rubber gloves to protect against solutions;
a grater and a half-grater for cement mortar;
silicone sealant and sharp knife;
black pencil, tape measure;
spatula and trowel.

Apply the plaster layer with a spatula

Let's go to practice

Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes begins with inside... First, the lower and lateral sides are made, then they move to the upper slope.

Part of the solution must be diluted thinner and distributed over the areas of the window opening. This step will promote good adhesion of the surface to the plaster. The mixture is taken with a spatula and laid out along the openings. It is important that it does not flow, but sticks to the surface.
Let the first layer dry.
We set the angular profile using the level.
We continue to lay the layers on the slopes, not forgetting to monitor the leveling of the surface.
As the mortar dries completely, you need to correct the corners.
We do the grout with a grater.
Apply a layer of primer.
Moving on to the finish, which can be decorative plaster or tile.

Finished slopes are trimmed decorative plaster

After installation plastic windows the following items are added to the standard technology:

on the plastered slope, using a spatula, make a 5 mm furrow;
in the made track we lay a layer of silicone, which will not allow cracks to form in those places where the window connects to the slope.

The rest of the plastering of the slopes of plastic windows occurs according to the above technology. If a gypsum mixture was used in the work, then at the final stage it is necessary to dismantle the elements of the window slats by bending.

External slopes are plastering after finishing the internal

Then you can move on to plastering the external slopes of the windows. Subject to the basic rules and knowledge of how to plaster the slopes on the windows, you can significantly improve the thermal insulation in the house and give it a beautiful look.

Not all firms specializing in the installation of plastic windows include the installation of slopes in the list of their services. Very often, for these purposes, people additionally turn to the masters for help, who sometimes require this work a fairly high fee.

However, with the appropriate tools and some construction skills, it is quite possible to handle the installation of slopes with your own hands. One of effective methods making the slopes attractive appearance is their plastering. Therefore, further it will be considered how to do the plastering of window slopes with your own hands.

Tools and materials for work

If you decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, their installation should be completed with a beautiful frame of the slopes. To do this, you can use not only the plastering technology, the sections of the walls adjacent to the window can also be finished with plasterboard, siding or special panels that come with the window.

However, plaster allows you to decorate the room to your liking, without reference to the color and texture of plastic or wood panels... Plastering technology allows you to use different geometry, with which you can visually enlarge the boundaries of the room, make it lighter and more comfortable.

Before starting work, you need to worry about the availability of some tools and materials. To yourself, you need to cook:

Figure 1. Principle of work with a bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

a drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
a trowel for applying the solution;
a set of spatulas;
square with a movable rail for measuring the bevel angle;
level and plumb line;
rule;
malka;
hammer;
grater;
container for mixing the solution;
plaster;
plaster mix;
assembly tape;
polyurethane foam;
edged boards;
nails.

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to make special device- malku. It is a wooden lath about 35 mm wide and 20-25 mm thick. In this case, the length this device should be equal to the width of the slope along the hypotenuse of the triangle, which is formed by the window opening and the box.

A rectangular cutout is made on one side of the mala. One end with a cutout is installed on the box, and the other on a rail or a rule attached to the outer edge of the slope. Fig. 1 shows the principle of working with a small one, where: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

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Preparatory work

The most important preparatory procedure before making the slopes is quality installation windows. If the window structure is exposed even with a slight deviation from a strictly vertical position, then no slope can correct such a defect. In this case, the installation of the window will have to be carried out anew, that is, it will be necessary to remove the glass unit and dismantle the window frame.

After installing the window, it is necessary to install the window sill. In this case, it is imperative to adhere to its strict horizontal position. To check the horizontalness of the window sill, you can pour a little plain water and see if it spreads in any direction.

Before making the slopes, you need to inspect the gaps between window frame and a wall, and also check the tightness of all seams. To seal the cracks, you can use polyurethane foam. After it hardens, you need to cut off all the excess. All work should be carried out very carefully, because it is much easier to get a flat surface with the presence of small depressions as a result, than to build up a slope with plaster to the level of the bumps formed with a poor cut of the polyurethane foam.

Preparatory work also includes protection window frame... On installed PVC windows usually remain protective films with markings. If it covers the entire surface of the frame, then nothing else needs to be done to protect it. Otherwise, you will need to process the skipped sections of the frame with assembly tape. Additionally, it is recommended to secure the window sill. To do this, you can use thick plastic wrap or plain paper, which can be attached to the windowsill with tape.

After that, you need to remove the old layer of plaster. To facilitate this task, you can use a hammer drill or a conventional wide-edged chisel. In some cases, the finishing of the slope is carried out on top of the old layer of plaster. In this case, only the whitewash needs to be removed. At the final stage preparatory work the slopes and adjacent surfaces are cleaned from dirt and dust, since the final result will depend on the cleanliness.

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Window slope plastering technology

For plastering internal slopes, you can use dry gypsum plaster... This mixture is quick-drying. It is better to knead it with construction mixer... It is possible to apply such a solution in a thicker layer than cement-sand plaster, which is the determining factor if it is necessary to putty deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand is added to the cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 2, if it is necessary to apply a layer of plaster of more than 30 mm. External window slopes are processed cement mixture or a facade starting putty with the addition of water-repellent agents.

At the first stage of plastering in inner corner the slope (near the window itself) a beacon is installed according to the level: a metal profile of the required length is mounted on the solution.

To restrict outer corner is established wooden lath or a rule that snuggles against the edge of a wall adjacent to a slope. From the side of the wall, it can be secured with clamps, dowels or self-tapping screws. The verticality of such a structure must be checked using building level... The upper slope is prepared in the same way, from which plastering begins.

Slope plaster is applied in 3 layers: thin spray, base primer and finishing layer, the thickness of which should not exceed 2 mm. After the main plaster is sketched, it is pulled together from the bottom up with a rule or a trowel. After a certain time, when the plaster dries up a little, the rule is removed, and the remaining areas are sealed with a solution. After that, the corners are processed.

Plastering of the corners is done after the slopes and walls are completely dry. Corner processing is performed with the same plaster mortar using a trowel or a trowel. At the same time, in the corners, the mixture is leveled with smooth movements from bottom to top and to the sides.

The plaster layer near the corner should form an even surface with the wall.