Applying decorative plaster yourself from your own materials. Decorative plaster: preparation and application by one's own hands

Technique, technology for applying decorative plaster with video tutorials.

Before applying decorative plaster with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean the surface of the wall. Remove old wallpaper or paint, clean the surface of dust. If there are irregularities, they must be removed by leveling the wall. Cover the cracks by gluing with a sickle mesh. The prepared surface must be flat, clean and dry. The borders of surfaces on which it is not supposed to apply plaster are sealed with masking tape. The surface is then primed with a deep penetration primer. It is most convenient to use an airbrush, but you can prime the surface with a roller or brush.

Decorative plaster is sold either as a dry mix or as a ready-made composition. The dry mix for preparation should be poured into a stainless, preferably plastic, container, shut with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. Ready plaster needs to be mixed simply within 2 minutes. If the plaster is white, then the color can be added during the preparation (mixing) of the composition. You can do without it, and after application and complete drying, paint the walls with paint.

The technology and technique of applying decorative plaster to the walls are shown in more detail in the video tutorials below. We begin to apply the material after the primer is completely dry, see the characteristics. Apply with a plastic or stainless steel tool. The layer thickness ranges from 2 mm to 5 mm. If you work with textured plaster, then the pattern is created immediately during application. contains mineral filler. The filler, clinging to the tool, creates furrows. The pattern depends on the direction of movement of the tool: vertically or horizontally, we get the usual "bark beetle", if in a circular motion - "lamb", you can make wave-like movements, or those that you like.

Using structural fine-grained plaster, you can create a unique relief on the wall. To do this, you can use a variety of tools. The technology for applying decorative plaster with such a pattern is also not complicated. A decorative roller can create a grass-like relief. You can use a foam roller or sponge, various brushes or a crumpled piece of polyethylene. With a spatula, you can smooth out a deep or rough pattern, or create a new one. A flight of fantasy is an assistant in creating a unique drawing. Work should be carried out continuously, otherwise the boundaries of the pattern will be very noticeable.

After finishing work, you need to let the plaster dry for several days. Then you can start painting. It is convenient to paint the surface with a wide brush or roller. Instead of paint, you can apply colored or pearlescent varnish. To give the wall extra shine, wax is applied over the paint (varnish).

Decorative plaster video tutorials

This video presents the technology of applying Handitex decorative plaster with your own hands, a very plastic material that opens up all the possibilities for imagination.

Masters of Superstroy give useful advice, explain how to prepare the walls before applying plaster, the tools used, the application technique

And here, see what technology for applying Venetian plaster with your own hands, the specialist gives good recommendations

The times of total deficit generated by the Soviet era are long gone. After all, then the decoration of the walls in the room was an understandable and simple matter. Today, a wide variety of finishing materials have appeared:

• liquid wallpaper;
• facing panels;
• modern paints.

But decorative plaster is a real breakthrough in construction and repair technologies. This is absolutely not the plaster that is put under the wallpaper, but a completely new independent material.

Excellent qualities of decorative plaster do not need additional recommendations. Two rooms, even finished by the same person using the same materials and techniques, will never be the same. Each is exclusive, because the pattern of plaster on the wall cannot be repeated. With its help, you can create interesting effects, you just need to master the necessary technique. Such a coating is very durable to all sorts of harmful effects. It is difficult to get it dirty, but if it somehow happened, it is easy to wash it off.

The plaster is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful chemical compounds.

In addition, it improves the soundproofing of the walls. In stores, such material is sold in dry form, it is made on the basis of binders. As fillers, crumbs, sand, stones or fibers with the addition of antiseptics, dyes, thickeners can be used. In this article, we will tell you how to make decorative wall plaster with your own hands, what methods and materials exist for this, and also demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Conventionally, plaster is divided into:

• interior.

Facade plaster is much more resistant to aggressive environmental influences and is used for external work. Interior, in turn, is divided into:

• mineral;
• silicate;
• latex.

There is also a classification according to the type of surface, which is the result. For example, under the "roller", "fur coat", "rust", etc.

In general, each type of plaster has its own characteristics in application. For example, expensive "Venetian" plaster is applied in several layers, in a special way that requires thorough professional skills, it can be coated with wax on top. This is beyond the power of a beginner, so it is better to turn to a professional.

If you still want to make repairs with your own hands, it is better to choose bark beetle type plaster. To apply it, you only need an ordinary spatula.

Working with ordinary decorative plaster will submit even to a beginner, because it is extremely difficult to spoil such a coating. And there is no need to prepare the walls too carefully - it will smooth out all the defects by itself. Such decorative wall plaster will also give a flight to your design ideas.

Preparing walls for finishing

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall from the remnants of the past coating (paint, wallpaper, etc.). Exfoliated areas are removed, and the cracks are sealed. This will be enough for bark beetle plaster, but Venetian and some other varieties require a perfectly flat surface.

After priming and drying the surface, it is necessary to decide whether the entire wall area will be plastered, or part of it will go under another coating.

Zones of different claddings can be separated using masking tape or window seals.

Minimum set of tools:

1. Spatulas of various sizes.
2. Grater (wooden or plastic).
3. Metal iron.
4. Tanks for solution and water.
5. Roller for textured plaster.

The solution should be prepared based on the recommendations on the package, then you will get the desired consistency. Moreover, you need to prepare such a portion in order to select it at a time, because otherwise the solution will “grab” right in the container. This is a job that does not tolerate long breaks.

The plaster must be applied with a spatula. When it thickens a little, you can walk on it with a grater without undue pressure, creating the necessary pattern. It is better to practice in a small area first.

To create a unique relief, a spatula, a grater and your own hands are enough. You can use any improvised means.

Most often, beginners create rains of different directions on the walls, circles, waves, crossed lines. The most simple in execution is the horizontal relief. You can also use a special figured roller, then applying the pattern is much easier.

All this must be done at the maximum pace, because the layer of plaster dries very quickly. It is necessary to pay special attention to the joints of the sections in order to avoid sagging.

If your wall was prepared for different types of coatings, then the adhesive tape in the areas where the zones are separated must be removed before the plaster is completely dry, later it will be more difficult to do this, and minor defects may remain.

After complete drying (usually about 24 hours), the plaster must be treated with fine sandpaper, which will remove all excess.

On this wall decoration with decorative plaster can be considered finished. But there are people who are not satisfied with this, and they want to paint the wall. In this case, only high-quality paint that is resistant to moisture, sunlight and mechanical stress should be used.

When carrying out work, you must first paint the textured areas of the surfaces, and only then smooth ones.

After the first layer has dried, a second layer of paint should be applied.

For finishing the facade, decorative bark beetle plaster is increasingly used. Even an apprentice can apply it, the main thing is to get acquainted with the technology and adhere to it as accurately as possible.

As a rule, bark beetle is used for facade work, but due to its attractive texture, this type of decorative plaster has recently been used in interior design, for example, in eco style.

Bark beetle is used to finish vertical surfaces, but if you have experience in this matter, then you can even apply it to the ceiling.

Wall preparation and primer

Before applying the bark beetle, you need to putty the surface of the walls, if we are talking about plastered walls. It is very practical to apply the bark beetle directly on the foam, previously pasted on the facade of the house. Alignment will be reduced to grouting.

In order to avoid the formation of cracks at the joints of the foam, a reinforcing mesh should be used when applying putty.

To achieve proper adhesion of the plaster to the wall, a primer should be used, which contains quartz sand, which provides excellent adhesion of the plaster to the wall base.

The products of the manufacturer Ceresit are most in demand on the market. If you decide to purchase such a primer, then you should use the ST 16 brand for decorative plaster.

The walls are coated with a primer shortly before applying the bark beetle. At a temperature of +20ºС, the primed surface will dry within 30 minutes. Composition consumption - 150 g / m 2.

The primer is slightly translucent from under the plaster, so its color should be as close as possible to the color of the bark beetle. To do this, it should simply be tinted in the shade corresponding to the color of the bark beetle.

If the bark beetle will be applied to cement-sand plaster, then there is no need to prime the surface. Just wet the wall an hour before applying the bark beetle. For maximum adhesion, moisten the base with plenty of water.

On the market you can buy a ready-mix, it can be Ceresit CT 63 or a dry mix that you will need to prepare yourself. If we talk about the price, then from an economic point of view it is better to purchase a dry mix, since it is cheaper.

To prepare decorative plaster from a dry mix, you will need a drill with a mixing attachment, water and a mixing container.

The bark beetle dries quickly and should not be mixed with water. Therefore, make a small batch, especially if you have no experience in working with decorative plaster.

Given the size of the marble chips, the amount of bark beetle is calculated. For the small XS fraction, the consumption is 700 g/m2, for XL - 1700 g/m2, and for XXL - 2000 g/m2. To make the joints invisible, you need to apply the bark beetle on the wall at a time.

So, to prepare the mixture, pour the amount of water indicated on the package into a container. In this case, the water temperature should not exceed 15-20ºС. Introduce the dry mixture into the water gradually, while stirring the composition with a drill with a mixer nozzle. Leave the finished plaster for 10 minutes, and then mix again.

Only acrylic-based bark beetle can be tinted, all other types of plaster are best painted on top.

The main thing when applying bark beetle is to distribute the composition evenly over the surface. This can be done with a metal trowel 30 cm long. You can remove excess bark beetle from it with a spatula 10 cm long.

The bark beetle layer should correspond to the size of the marble chips, that is, within 2-3 mm. This is an important condition, because if the layer is too thin, the primer will be very visible, as a result of which the protective properties of the finish will be worsened. Well, if the layer of plaster is too thick, then the texture of the bark beetle will not be visible and the appearance of the facade / interior finish will suffer.

Since, as mentioned above, the bark beetle dries quickly, you will have to work just as quickly. To make the surface of the walls as uniform as possible, it is better to apply the plaster at a time. But if this is unrealistic due to the large area of ​​​​the wall, then separate the strip with masking tape and apply the composition slightly on the adhesive tape. Then separate the adhesive tape without waiting for the plaster to dry. Continue applying the plaster in the same way until the entire wall is covered.

Trituration

The most crucial stage of work is rubbing the bark beetle. It depends on him what the final picture on the wall will be. This work should be started immediately after the plaster begins to dry (after about 20 minutes). If the palm does not stick to the wall, then you can start rubbing, which is done with a plastic trowel.

When grinding marble chips, chaotic depressions are formed.

Thus, you can get the desired effect:

• "Lamb" - the pattern is formed due to short circular movements. So, chaotic furrows remain on the wall, which are visually similar to the wool of a lamb.
• "Rain" is the most common rubbing technique. It is created by movements up and down. So, you get a vertical rain. If you do the rubbing from the upper left corner to the lower right, then the rain will be diagonal. To keep the grinding angle unchanged, you can mark the wall with masking tape.
• "Carpet" - rubbing should be carried out in alternating movements up and down and left and right.

If you are unable to apply the plaster in one go, then do not rub it to the very edge. Better finish the next part of the wall, and then carefully rub the joints. Thus, you can make an imperceptible transition.

You can paint the walls the next day after applying the bark beetle. Painting has some advantages over tinting plaster. After the bark beetle has dried without color, you can finally level the layer with sandpaper. Plaster with color cannot be leveled in this way, as worn pieces will be noticeable.

Painting provides more opportunities for design work. This aspect is especially relevant when using bark beetle in interior design.

The grooves underlined by a dark shade look very impressive. To achieve it, you first need to paint the wall in a dark color. After the coat of paint has dried, apply a second lighter coat of paint. In this case, the second layer must be applied with a semi-dry roller. In this case, the paint will not penetrate into the grooves, and they will remain dark. The consumption of the coloring composition is 300 g/m 2 .

To improve the performance of the walls (this is especially appropriate for interior wall decoration), you can varnish them - glossy or with sparkles.

Preparation for applying home-made decorative plaster made from putty begins with determining the room in which it will be applied to the walls. The choice of texture, the collection of tools and even the method of mixing the composition depend on this.

So, to successfully decorate the walls with putty, you will need:

1. Putty.
2. Mixing container.
3. Spatula and trowel.
4. Metal grater.
5. Construction mixer.
6. Polyethylene film for pattern or package.

Take measurements of the walls, which will allow you to roughly calculate the amount of starting material for finishing. The approximate consumption of putty indicated on the package will help you with this. To save money, you can purchase putty in powder form. To make a solution in this case, you will need:

• 6 kg of dry putty;
• 200 g of PVA glue;
• 2 liters of water.

Dilute the putty with water in a suitable container. You can do this with a mixer. You should get a homogeneous mass. Then add PVA to the mixture and again bring it to homogeneity.

For wall decoration in rooms with a low level of humidity, gypsum or cement plaster can be used. And for rooms with a high level of humidity, it is better to use cement.

If the walls are damaged, then all the crumbling parts must be cleaned. All recesses should be covered with cement. So, you can level the walls. If the surface is unreliable, then a plaster mesh should be glued on it, which you will subsequently putty.

After the putty layer dries, rub it so that the surface is even. Then the walls should be primed. Use for these purposes the composition of deep penetration.

Applying homemade plaster

There are several ways to apply decorative plaster, made with putty yourself:

1. Scales. Apply putty with a layer of 3-5 mm thick, and then make vertical strokes with a spatula having a width of 10 cm. After the composition has dried, it can be painted in the desired color.
2. Rock. Start applying a thin layer of putty from the top corner of the wall. The layer should be approximately 3 mm. Then take a metal trowel and attach it so that one side of it remains in the air, actually does not touch the wall. Without taking your hands off, draw straight lines along the putty.
3. Cave. Put putty on the wall, level it. Then, with a piece of polyethylene compressed into a lump, make a pattern by pressing it against the wall. This can be done in another way by attaching a covering film to the wall. It will need to be torn off the putty in a day.
4. Putty Venetian. Type a little putty on the spatula, make uneven strokes with it. After 24 hours, sand the walls with fine-grained sandpaper. If you only need to erase sharp corners, then make it a mesh. Prime the surface and let it dry. Paint the wall with a base color, then a surface color. Immediately after application, it must be slightly wiped off the convex parts of the plaster with a damp cloth. Ultimately, the walls should be waxed/acrylic based/gold lacquered.
5. To create an original pattern, you can use other stamps from improvised materials. For example, pieces of foam rubber, branches, polystyrene, flowers, fabric cuts, a roller wrapped with fabric, stencils, etc.

After your homemade decorative plaster has dried, paint it or open it with colored wax.

In general, this science is simple and even an inexperienced "plasterer" can do it. If you did everything right, the interior of your home will delight you with originality and originality for many years.

Photo

Video

We bring to your attention a series of videos about various decorative plasters and how to apply them:

If you want to order wall decoration with decorative plaster, we recommend that you turn to professionals, since the price of this product is very high. You can find out the cost of decorative plaster on the websites of companies producing decorative coatings. Also pay attention to Venetian plaster, it is great for covering walls.

Many beginner builders have a question: Is it possible to apply decorative plaster on plaster? It is worth paying attention to this issue, as it is primarily a financial issue, and then a beauty issue. If you master the technique well, you can save on costs.

You can do this job yourself perfectly, without resorting to specialists. Worth considering:

1. What is decorative plaster?
2. How to apply it?
3. What tools are needed?

Is it possible to apply decorative plaster on the main surface - material features

By decorative plaster is meant mass. It is used to decorate different types of surfaces. Since she has an attractive appearance, she is called decorative. After all, when it is applied to the wall, it looks quite aesthetically pleasing.

In order to start plastering walls, you will need two types of materials. It is worth referring to the first type.

For more information about decorative textured plaster, see the video:

Another type of material is structural plaster.

It is worth noting that the composition of the material already contains a coloring matter. However, after testing and polymerization has taken place, the wall needs additional painting. And sometimes it's enough just to toned.

The surface will look even more beautiful if it is treated with metallics and pearlescent pigments.

Structural putty

And what can be said about the structural putty. They are less plastic than textured ones; you should also take into account when working. Thanks to the mineral granules they contain, the texture is formed. Including a large role is played by quartz, marble, granite and more. Relief is achieved due to the fact that the grains are either on the surface itself or inside it.

In specialized stores you can find several more types of materials. Including fiber products, stucco, as well as almost transparent mixtures for plaster. They are used less often than the previous ones. Therefore, we will not talk about them.

In principle, there are other types of materials on the market - fibrous products, translucent plaster mixtures, etc. However, they are used quite rarely, therefore it would be more appropriate to focus on more common finishing techniques. Let's talk about how to apply decorative plaster on plaster.

Required tool

First of all, it is important to decide what kind of tool you need to apply plaster. Interestingly, in some cases, you can use one spatula. However, if we are talking about fast work, then this will not work. This option is only suitable when a specialist has taken up the matter.

You can't do without a masterful approach. In order for the work to be successful, it is important to use the following tool:

• especially for kneading work - large capacity;
• for direct work - a small capacity;
• a drill with a mixer attachment;
• for plastering trowels;
• trowel;
• plastic and metal graters;
• different sizes of spatula;
• having a hard pile, flat-shaped brushes (one of them is a maklovitsa);
• rigid structure sponge;
• a roller with a pattern to create relief on the walls.

You may need more tools along the way, but these will suffice to get you started. The main thing is to buy everything in advance, so as not to be distracted from work later. Find out about brick-like decorative panels for interior wall decoration.

Wall preparation

We are preparing the base for a strong future decorative composition. It is worth remembering that it is quite possible to apply decorative plaster on plaster. The only question is how well the preparation of the walls is done. Let's talk more about the stages of working with plaster.

The first thing we start with is removing everything unnecessary on the base. When you come to the plaster layer, then make sure that it does not fall off over time. Each case is individual and it is up to you to decide whether to remove the plaster completely.

How to determine which is best for you?

Take a heavy hammer and start tapping the entire surface. Determine if the material is starting to crumble or stay in place. Also identify possible voids with a characteristic sound.. If all this is not there, then you can safely apply decorative plaster on old plaster.

Now it is important to determine what state the surface is in. Find out if there are cracks, gaps or any other defect in it. Using a cement composition, or, fill all these voids. When you have already applied the polymerization repair mortar, prime all walls with a penetrating agent.

This will require about two coats of primer, but no less. Before applying another layer, stop and wait about 5 hours for the material to dry completely.

After these steps, the first primer layer is applied to the walls. The thickness of this plaster should be 20 mm. Thanks to this approach, the base will be reliable, and the entire surface will be even. It is important that any large differences are eliminated. In some cases putty is applied instead of basic plastering.

At the same time, when the material dries, it is not sanded, because adhesion will decrease. This applies to the processing of drywall. What about different types of walls? How are they plastered? Wood and the material that is created with its use are distinguished by hygroscopicity. He will tell you about the price of puttying walls for wallpaper.

During work, the putty may begin to soak at the base and deform. Also, the drying mode of the plaster itself will be violated. Therefore, if you decide to process wooden walls, then use a primer that contains components that protect against moisture.

If the surface is rough (plastic or plywood), then use a coarse abrasive. Indeed, without this, the plaster will begin to slide from it. And what about the metal elements that you will meet during the repair? If you use a decorative composition for processing, then over time rust spots will appear on them..

What to do? Use an anti-corrosion coating and you will avoid unpleasant moments.

Varieties of structural compositions

Let's consider a splash of a "fur coat". We have determined what will fit under the base of the decoration plaster, and now it is important to determine which finishing technology we will use. As for structural coatings, they are quite easier to apply than others. It's worth starting with them.

"Fur coat" is one of the types of decorative coatings. He is quite popular and is based on a cement-sand mortar. We knead everything 1 to 3. That is, we put about 3 parts of sand on 1 part of cement. Now we put everything on the walls with the help of splashes.

There is a special plastering machine that facilitates the process of applying plaster. After all, its work is based on the fact that the resulting pressure begins to throw out the solution. In this case, the mixture sticks to the walls and the necessary relief appears on them.

What to do when you do not have a typewriter and nowhere to take it? Then a simple broom will do. To do this, they take it with their right hand and begin to lower it into the solution. Take the amount of funds that you need, but not much. When the broom is brought closer to the surface, it is necessary for them to hit the stick (it was held in the other hand). Also read how to make a dry floor screed with your own hands.

Another method is also interesting. Using a brush. To do this, you need to take it with a long pile. Put some solution on it. Now run the board over it. Show some effort and slide it towards you. When the bristles straighten, the solution will fall on the surface in the right small amount.

In here's another thing that can be used - a metal mesh placed on a wooden frame. To do this, the structure is attached to the wall and leveled. Pressed with bricks. Now, with the help of a trowel, the solution is thrown onto the surface. Remove the mesh and then eliminate possible defects.

Use a brush to smooth the wall.

We use mineral granules

Applying these compounds is quite simple. Among them, one of the most popular was the "bark beetle". This type of plaster in appearance looks like wood, which is damaged by insects. Applying the composition is easy and not difficult. To do this, it is necessary to prepare and level the walls in advance with the help of the plaster composition.

We put a decorative mixture on them. In this case, you will need a grater. Its holding angle is about 60 towards the wall. Do not make the applied layer thicker than the largest grain in the composition. This is important to follow. When you have already applied the mixture, then dry the wall. Knauf will tell you about the consumption of putty per 1 m2.

And as soon as you notice that your hands have stopped sticking to the surface, you can proceed to decorative plaster. We take a plastic grater and attach it to the wall completely. Push a little and move on.

When movement occurs, the grains begin to move and at the same time leave furrows on the walls. This creates a beautiful drawing. This process is not over yet. It is important after the final work (drying and processing) to paint the surface with pigments on acrylic.

Features of textured plaster

This type of surface is somewhat different from the previous one. How? It is important that the person who does this has a certain skill in his field. After all, the processing method does not entirely affect the result. Relief in this case looks like a painting or sculpture.

Therefore, if you decide to use this option, then practice in advance to understand how best to behave with a given material. First, it is important to apply the main layers. Of course, the work is applied on a leveled surface. The base of the first layer has a thickness of a couple of millimeters.

This will ensure adhesion. This is the background for future design. It is worth paying attention to one detail. Since the material is applied to the base in a small layer, it is important to paint it in advance in the color you need. To do this, pigment is introduced into the plaster for application and mixed.

It is necessary to dry the base thoroughly until the tools no longer leave marks when they are pressed down a little on the surface. Now you need to use a spatula to apply a few strokes to the surface.

Take quite a bit of the mixture, especially if you are just starting out.

The thickness of the application layer should be thin - about 3 mm. And in the end this thickness is half a millimeter. How you direct the strokes will affect the kind of drawing you get. If this is a "Venetian" finish, then send them in a chaotic manner. But if it is “rain”, then make diagonal movements and first apply the markup.

Brushes can be used as an alternative to spatulas and graters. Then we apply greasy plaster to the base and begin to level it with a grater. In the end, you need to process everything with a hard brush. Thanks to the traces that remain from the bristles, an interesting relief will turn out on the wall.

Other interesting techniques can be applied. Use of polyethylene film. No special trick is needed here. Polyethylene is glued onto the pre-applied 2 mm layer. It should have a lot of folds. We are waiting for the material to dry.

After a couple of hours, the film is removed and an unusual relief pattern is obtained. However, there is a tip. Do not sharply remove the film, because the coating will be damaged in this case. But don't overexpose the film. After all, in this way its parts will dry to the base, and the plaster will come off with it. Find out about finishing putty for exterior, facade work at.

The option of using a roller is suitable for those who are not confident in their abilities.. Get a special roller. Thanks to its protrusions and depressions, a pattern is formed. It is imprinted on the plaster that has not yet hardened. So her appearance will be very beautiful. You can also use a regular paint roller.

However, to do this, you need to pluck the pile out of it. You can also wrap the working part with a cord or other tool to create folds.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say that decorative plaster can be freely applied to the plaster. The disadvantages include the need for additional wall processing, surface preparation for applying a new layer of plaster, as well as checking the strength of the old layer of plaster.

The advantages include saving time on removing the old layer of plaster and financial costs for additional work.

Decorative plaster, as well as, with proper preparation of the walls and the ability to apply it, is easy to apply and becomes a beautiful part of your interior. At the same time, it will be very durable and practical, but on condition that it is applied in compliance with all the conditions described.

The concept of "decorative plaster" combines many different building mixtures intended for finishing the walls of rooms. This includes flock, and Venetian plasters, and liquid wallpaper, and plasters that imitate various surfaces and structures, such as natural stone or wood. The addition of solid particles to the mixture during their application gives an interesting and original pattern. Also, such plasters can be mixed with dyes of the desired shades.

When using decorative plaster for wall decoration, as a rule, it becomes the finishing one. Its appearance makes it possible to create any style of interior without resorting to the use of additional materials.

The very process of applying plaster is quite simple, if you clearly follow the instructions for its preparation and know a few simple secrets. In addition, this is a creative process that allows you to show your artistic abilities and give the premises a unique look.

Before you start applying the plaster itself, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls. It must be cleaned of old wallpaper or loose ball, carefully leveled and sanded. Dust that has settled on the walls must be completely removed with a brush. After cleaning the surface, it is primed. The primer can be used as an ordinary primer, as well as a primer-impregnation. In the first case, it is applied with a spatula, in the second - with a roller or a wide brush.

While the primer on the walls dries, you can start preparing decorative plaster. It is usually sold in plastic buckets of various capacities as a dry mix. To prepare it, you must strictly follow the instructions on the package. The preparation itself will not be difficult - as a rule, it is enough to place the mixture with a drill with a special nozzle. If there is no drill, you can use a piece of rebar or a wooden board.

Various dyes can also be added to the mixed plaster to obtain the desired shade. There are several ways to add dye. You can add it directly to the bucket with the mixture (proportions 1:10), only to the finishing composition, or dilute it with the mixture in proportions 1:1 and apply it on the wall with a roller or sponge with chaotic strokes. If the first two options are standard application methods and result in a surface that is uniform in color, then the last option is more of a creative approach that requires more time, but the result is worth it.

The plaster is applied to the wall with a spatula or trowel. The layer of plaster ranges from 2 to 5 mm. Due to the fact that the surface was pre-leveled and impregnated with a primer, the plaster lays evenly and is not absorbed by the pores of the walls. For applying plaster, it is convenient to use a wide tool that allows you to capture a large area.

Depending on the composition of the mixture and the method of its application, different textures can be obtained. The mixture can be applied with a spatula, moving up and down or in a circular motion. You can also experiment with different tools for applying the mixture.

Using a large, hard-bristled brush, for example, will give the texture a wave shape.

With the help of toothed trowels or rollers, as well as various stamps, repeating reliefs are created.

To obtain non-standard reliefs, you can also use improvised materials. A crumpled plastic bag, which is pressed against the still wet layer of the mixture, gives the effect of a “moon surface”.

After application, decorative plaster can dry from 8 hours to two days, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. After drying, the surface of the walls is lightly sanded with fine-grained sandpaper to remove the sharp edges of the relief and cleaned of dust.

The last step is to apply the final protective composition. It must be chosen depending on the type of plaster. Some experts use a special wax instead, which protects the plaster layer from moisture.

Video on how to apply decorative plaster

I propose to visually see the process of applying decorative plaster and the arrangement of various textured patterns in the video lesson.

Examples of interiors with decorative plaster

Decorative plaster together with firmly holds the palm among finishing materials. Using natural materials and traditional technologies do-it-yourself decorative plaster saves up to 80% of finishing costs or allows you to start a highly profitable small business: the components are cheap, and the work is difficult and expensive.

Another important advantage is the huge wealth of colors, textures and reliefs, which are approximately equivalent in terms of labor intensity and cost. The figure shows only a small part of the available textures, each of which also has varieties, and may vary depending on the method of application. In the interior, decorative plaster gives freedom of design: you just need to say what surface is needed, and the craftsmen will do it, so long as the customer does not require a different type of finish.

People with artistic ability only stucco can, see the next pic. A skilled craftsman can achieve the effect of the full presence of the present in the fictitious, as in fig. left. But, of course, before undertaking such work, you need to fully master all the technology and feel the material to the finest nuances.

Finally, there are many ready-made polymer-based mixtures on the market that are durable, resistant and designed for different temperature and humidity conditions. Although they are not cheap, the technology for applying decorative plaster of industrial production is not complicated, careful labor-intensive leveling of the underlying surface is not required, so in general, finishing with decorative plaster can be cheaper than ordinary plaster, followed by wallpapering and painting.

So what is it made of, this wonderful material? Is it possible to make it yourself? How to work with him?

It is not difficult to make decorative plaster yourself from natural components, you only need accuracy and a simple tool. Ready-made polymer-based mixtures require industrial manufacturing technology, but decorating walls with them is easier than plastering under wallpaper or painting. Working with decorative plaster is not technically difficult, but the most accurate robot cannot cope with it: a certain amount of artistic taste is needed.

And most importantly, we are not talking about one material, but about many types and varieties. The main ones will be described in this article, but first of all - about the composition and its components. Then - the preparatory work, and only then - for the cause.

Composition and components

Decorative plaster for interior work consists of a filler that gives a general tone, strength and durability, a pigment (colour), structural (modeling) elements, surface or volumetric, and a binder that holds it all together into a monolith. The finished coating is glazed to increase surface resistance - a reinforcing composition is introduced into a thin surface layer.

Fillers

The most common filler was and remains pure fine white river sand or finely ground quartz sand. For real Venetian plaster (see below), it is partially or completely replaced with marble flour. Synthetic self-forming fillers are becoming more widespread (drying, the plaster itself wrinkles into a unique relief), but mixtures with them are produced only industrially and are sold ready-made.

Pigments

Mixtures give color (tint) with pigments, mineral and organic synthetic. Natural organic pigments (cochineal, indigo) in plaster burn out quickly. The pigment can be in the form of a powder, then it is introduced into the filler before mixing; paste-like and liquid pigments are introduced into the mixture ready for application.

To create any color, in principle, red, green and blue are enough - the main basic colors, but the plaster itself does not glow, its color is created by subtracting complementary colors from the reflected white. In colorimetry, this method of colorization is called subtractive.

Therefore, in order to get pure and / or deep tones, additional colors are needed: yellow, blue (turquoise), magenta (lilac, violet), and key color; with a white backing, the key will be black. There are more than enough synthetic pigments of any color on sale, and the following can be recommended from mineral ones for natural plaster:

• Red- red ocher, calcined hematite, red cadmium. Cinnabar - no way, it's a mercury compound! Cadmium is also toxic, but not volatile, chemically resistant and does not migrate from the plaster layer.
• Yellow- yellow ocher, orpiment, red lead.
• Green- malachite (ground), pseudomalachite, kerchenite, chrome green, brilliant green powder.
• Blue- blue (next point) mixed with zinc or titanium white; azurite and dioptase are expensive.
• Blue- lapis lazuli (lapis lazuli), cobalt blue, vivianite (mineral indigo).
• Violet– calcined lapis lazuli, oxides of manganese. Pharmacy potassium permanganate is not suitable, and not at all because of the regulated circulation: it is chemically aggressive (strong oxidizing agent), actively migrates.
• Brown- dark ocher, iron minium.
• Black- soot gas, charcoal.

Notes:

1. Violet, mauve and magenta; blue with turquoise - visually different colors. But they belong to the same zone of the spectrum - mixing them with yellow, you can get the same red or green, only the ratio of the components will be different.
2. Gas soot is not scraped out of the chimney. It is sold precisely as a pigment in construction and art stores.

In general, any mineral pigments for easel painting will go for decorative wall plastering, it's just a matter of price. There is a difference - to paint an icon, which will then be bought for several thousand dollars, or to finish two dozen squares, keeping within the family budget. For shine, metal powders are used as a pigment.

Organic pigments are cheaper than many mineral ones, they can be iridescent (pearl, metallic) and fluorescent (self-luminous after exposure to the Sun). But keep in mind - there is no organic matter that would not burn out for decades, not to mention centuries, and in principle cannot exist. Its highest UV resistance to date is 80 years, at a coating price of $4 per square inch.

Modeling elements

To form a textured surface, various flakes, fibers, granules, up to golden balls, are introduced into the mixture or sprayed onto the finished coating. This will be discussed in more detail in the description of the types of plasters, but it is important to know: mineral plaster mixtures are structured very poorly. You need to either strictly follow proven recipes, or have extensive experience in order to experiment yourself.

Binder

For plaster, mineral and organic polymeric binders are used. The former are not very sticky, but have been tested for centuries and are cheap; the second - tightly stick to anything except clean glass, polished metal, polyethylene and fluoroplastic, stretch well when dried, but are expensive and in operation for less than 100 years.

Mineral

Cement and simple gypsum are not used for decorative plaster: the first gives a too rough surface and a dirty tone of color, and the second is fragile. On sale there are mixtures based on gypsum modified with polymer additives, but their reliability has not yet been tested for centuries.

Natural decorative plaster is most often made on lime paste. It is cheap, strong, durable, allows the use of a variety of decorative techniques, but its adhesive power is low, so good, and rather laborious, surface preparation is required. The relief can only be obtained by wet modeling or stenciling - it is not plastic, it does not stretch.

Sometimes, for coatings that are not particularly responsible in design, but require increased durability (for example, in the hallway), they take plaster on a binder of liquid glass - silicate. It is durable, sticks well, but is rough, and not every pigment can be introduced into it.

For especially critical cases, the binder is taken magnesian: caustic magnesite (magnesium oxide) MgO, mixed with an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride MgCl2. The components are caustic, individually dangerous, the mixture must be prepared immediately before use, strictly following the rules of chemical technology, but the plaster comes out exceptionally durable and moisture resistant.

organic

The main organic binders are acrylic resin and silicone, which is already organosilicon. Both of them stick well and stretch. Acrylic is much cheaper; the price of the finished coating is comparable to that of the "mineral water"; layer thickness - up to 12 mm. Silicone is very expensive, but it allows you to make convex bas-reliefs, high reliefs and even a round sculpture.

Mixes

The standard composition of plaster mixtures for interior decoration is as follows:

1. filler - 3 parts by weight;
2. binder - 1 weight part;
3. pigment - 2-12% by weight of the mixture according to the results of coloring, see below;
4. modeling additives - according to secret proprietary technology or the results of our own unique experience.

Note: up to 80-90% of the filler with pigment in total can be introduced into the plaster on an acrylic binder, as for liquid stone. The wall for such plaster should be prepared, as under the Venetian on an acrylic substrate, see below, and still be limited to 4 parts of the filler with pigment per 1 part of the binder - the plaster is not a countertop, it does not lie, but hangs on the wall.

Vykras

Wall decoration with decorative plaster is unthinkable without test paints. They are needed not only for selecting the tone and checking the texture, but also for testing the strength of the fit: after complete drying, the samples are turned upside down or placed on the butt and tapped on its back side with the handle of a roller or spatula. If it doesn't fall off, it will stay on the wall.

Vykras is done on a plywood board 0.5x0.5 m thick 8-20 mm. Plywood is needed without impregnation, the simplest, on casein glue, from coniferous or birch. It is impossible to replace plywood with drywall or other board materials: it is simple plywood on casein that holds the plaster in the same way as a prepared wall.

Note: plywood for painting is needed not stratified and new, not dusty and not seized. Dust and grease drastically reduce the adhesive susceptibility of the substrate.

Glazing

Glazing is the final operation of decorative plaster. Its purpose is to give relief and / or painting surface resistance. The traditional way of glazing old mineral plasters is with beeswax: the surface is lined with a piece of wax crosswise, then rubbed with a horn sponge, thin felt or rawhide polish.

wax for glazing

Wax glazing is a labor-intensive and responsible operation. Wax is applied and rubbed repeatedly, and at the same time, you must not erase the relief and wipe the drawing. Suffice it to say that the quality of glazing in the old days was checked by placing a palm on the opposite side of the wall: it should have warmed through from friction heating.

Nowadays, they are glazed either with transparent acrylic varnish - it easily penetrates into the surface layer of any plaster - or with special single-use glaze compositions; they are simply applied with a roller or brush. But there is a nuance: if a ready-made mixture is used, then it is necessary to glaze with the composition of the same manufacturer, and intended specifically for this mixture. It is physically impossible to check for compatibility all plaster products on the market.

I must say that some manufacturers shamelessly use this circumstance for selfish purposes: the mixture seems to be inexpensive, and the glazing for it ... there are no words, one primordial Russian non-normative. Therefore, when choosing a ready-made mixture, be sure to read in the FIRM instructions how it is recommended to glaze it, and ask how much it costs. In extreme cases - acrylic varnish has not yet spoiled any plaster.

Video: an example of glazing in a lacquer manufacturer's video

Tool

To work on decorative plaster, in addition to the usual plastering tool, you will also need a special one: textured rollers, stamps, a rubbing sponge, see fig. A set of notched trowels also comes in handy, especially if you're thinking of a modern clone design.

Rollers and dies must, firstly, be soft-elastic, otherwise it will turn out not a unique relief, but roll rolling. Secondly, they should not stick with the mixture. For permanent use, it is better to get rollers with a Teflon or polyester coating - they are durable. For one-time amateur work, it is better to purchase cheap polyethylene ones.

Special mention should be made of sponges for rubbing. The luxury finish is still rubbed with natural sea horn sponges; they go on sale as "coral", although the sponge is not coral at all, and are expensive. Two types of horny sponges are mined: toilet and horse. The first is softer, goes to the final grout, and the second, coarser - to the rough.

However, practice shows that horn sponges successfully replace the usual two-layer kitchen sponge for dishes. Its hard fibrous side is used for rough grinding, and the soft foam side is used for finishing. A kitchen sponge on plaster wears out very quickly, but it also costs a penny.

Wall preparation

Preparation of walls for decorative plaster is carried out in the following order:

• Close up cracks.
• durable cement putty.
• a falcon in the air WITHOUT LIGHTHOUSES, even surface ones; perfect evenness, as for painting or wallpaper, does not need to be achieved - the decor will hide minor flaws.
• Thoroughly remove dust with a dry brush, then suck it with a vacuum cleaner with a dust collector.
• Under all plasters, except Venetian - primed with a deep penetration primer on stone or plaster.
• Under Venetian plaster - make a substrate with sand, see below.

Beacons cannot be used in base plaster for the following reason: the base layer may not be very even, but must be perfectly uniform. Closed grooves from remote beacons, dried-up induced beacons violate this uniformity, which in a couple of years will lead to delamination of the decor.

It is better to take the base plaster warm on expanded vermiculite. Styrofoam, etc. not strong, and in decorative plaster, as nowhere else, you must follow the immutable finishing principle: strong and heavy should not lie on light and weak.

Why do you need warm plaster? The decor is inherently heterogeneous, which is why it is sensitive to the temperature gradient (temperature difference) across the thickness of the layer. The load-bearing walls are now being built more of silicate brick and concrete, which have a fairly high thermal conductivity, due to which, with sudden changes in the weather, the gradient may go beyond the permissible range. If the box is made of ceramic bricks, then they are now heated not with stoves, but with radiators, and the walls are not made a meter thick, which can give the same result.

Venetian lining

Applying natural Venetian plaster requires considerable physical effort, and replacing sand with marble dust reduces the adhesion of the mixture. In addition, in order for the Venetian to show itself in all its glory, the substrate under it must reflect light with brilliance.

An old way of priming under a Venetian is painting with lead or zinc white (tucia) in linseed oil mixed with fine quartz sand and ground pearls that have become old and have lost their value. Now the base surface under the Venetian is painted with pearl acrylic paint, also with the addition of sand, to improve adhesion due to roughness.

How much sand do you need? Approximately 5-15% by weight. The test on the nail is precisely determined by the dried color: the nail should go easily and smoothly, and a uniformly rough white spot should remain on it. If individual scratches are visible, there is not enough sand or it is too large. If it slows down, as if on sandpaper, there is a lot of sand.

Is it possible to prime the old fashioned way? Not recommended. Firstly, it makes no sense to replace pearls with a cheaper, but still expensive pearl stalemate: stalemate is made from the scales of small herring fish - sprat, sprat, herring, kibinago - and in terms of its physical and chemical properties it is not pearl at all. Secondly, a city apartment is not a family nest. Once again there will be a repair, and the oil absorbed into the wall will show itself as stains on the wallpaper or paint, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Working methods

Methods for applying decorative plaster are somewhat different from those for ordinary plaster, and include additional operations: tinting, sculpting, grinding, glazing. Glazing has already been said; how to make a Venetian will be discussed specifically later. Here we will talk about the general techniques of manual work. Mechanized methods: spraying to get icicles on the ceiling, etc. - the subject of a separate discussion.

There is one more significant difference: the decor can, and should, be made multi-layered for an artistic effect. She should not keep anything else on herself, and glazing will strengthen her. Layers can be up to 15 or more, as long as the material allows: the thickness of the finished coating along the depressions of the relief should not exceed 6 mm. Layers can be either continuous or piecewise, but always wet on wet. Let the previous one have already begun to set, but it should be wet in appearance and to the touch.

Application

The finished “decorative” must be applied, of course, not with a falcon and a rule for lighthouses, but with a wide spatula in weight. The mixtures are quite viscous, it is more convenient to pull the spatula with both hands, and small irregularities do not matter, because. further finishing is not expected.

The spatula, smooth or notched, is pulled from the bottom up in vertical or oblique stripes. Unlike the usual one, it is permissible, for the sake of heightening the aesthetic effect, to apply the decorative effect with rays apart or with a drive to the center. The spatula is pulled with small waves, swaying across; so the mixture will stick better to the wall.

Coloring

The applied layer can be tinted (tinted) on top by applying a thin layer of the same mixture on it with a shaggy roller or a flute brush, but with additional color and diluted water. You can tint both wet on wet, for modeling, and already seized, but still damp layer - for grinding.

modeling

Modeling (which can be done with rollers, stamps, or just a finger in a latex glove) not only creates a relief. Modeling a wet tinted layer disperses the pigment to the tops of the relief, which already gives a certain transition of colors.

Rubbing

Layer rubbing is done for the following:

1. Rough sponge - under the next layer.
2. She also rough and clean - to shade the stained color scheme.
3. With a falcon or a spatula on a barely set relief - to smooth its tops into one level and highlight it with color; this is how bark beetle plasters are rubbed.

Stencil plaster

Semantic images with plaster can be made using a stencil with a thickness of 1.5-4 mm. The stencil layer can be both final and intermediate. If the previous layer is even, the stencil is easier to make from cardboard; if embossed - from foam or soft rubber. The mixture is rubbed into the stencil with a narrow spatula or driven in with an end brush. To highlight the color, a slightly dried-up pattern is overwritten, or vice versa, rubbed into it with a color sponge.

Video: applying decorative plaster on a stencil

About drying

Decorative plaster is dried in a ventilated room only in a natural way. Exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable: in addition to hanging open windows with gauze or tulle, you need to arrange a temporary visor above the window or shading screens inside. It is unacceptable to speed up drying in any way, except for separate areas for craquelure, see below.

You can open your creation for viewing in a day in clear weather or two in cloudy weather, and use the room in a week. It takes from 2 to 12 hours to set the next layer, depending on the type of plaster and temperature. 15 hours after application, the coat is considered unsuitable for wet-on-wet work. This is either the finish, or all the work is spoiled.

Types of plasters

Types of decorative plaster, with all their diversity, are not so difficult to classify, based on the final result:

• Venetian - can be considered the progenitor of all others.
• Stucco (discussed earlier).
• Ottocento (fibrous) plasters.
• Textured.
• Structural.
• Flock plaster.
• Modeling plasters.

Venetian

Venetian plaster was invented in ancient Rome. In ancient times, marble was a mass building material, from the processing of which a lot of waste remained. Practical Roman women ground it into dust and replaced it with white sand, which is not so much in nature. Then they noticed that a thin layer was translucent, and began to apply in layers, carefully rubbing each layer (slave labor was cheap), which made it possible to obtain coatings that were translucent almost like real marble, but suitable for weak and curved walls. By applying piecewise layers filled with colored ground stone, travertine and other facing materials were imitated.

He perfected the technology of the Venetian in the 16th century. one of the titans of the Renaissance, the greatest architect of the West, Andrea Palladio. He was the first to create artistic images using the Venetian technique. Now the Venetian is reviving, which is greatly facilitated by cheap prices for marble flour (mining companies vying with each other) and the emergence of inexpensive and low-labor acrylic paints and varnishes for substrates and glazing. The Venetian woman has been described many times and competently, so we will reveal only some secrets.

Craquelure

The Venetian is often artificially aged, making cracking - craquelure. The technology is simple: the layer is covered with a special craquelure varnish (expensive). As it hardens, it shrinks and pulls the plaster along with it.

There is a way to reduce the cost of craquelure and make it look more natural without reducing the strength of the coating. But first you need to practice on the colors:

• The cracked area is dried, constantly visually controlled, with an infrared emitter with a reflector; an ancient electric fireplace bowl is well suited.
• Cracks appear a little or earlier, depending on experience, the heating is stopped, the cracks will spread themselves.
• A plaster composition is rubbed into the cracks with a dental spatula, tinted to black or dark gray with gas soot; you can add a dark minium.
• The remains of the filler are washed with a sponge.
• Apply a thin translucent solid layer without color.

Video: how to apply Venetian plaster craquelure

Carrara

Do not get carried away with colored spots. If you are not too lazy to apply 10-12 layers, and you already have some skill, you will take pure white marble flour on lime as a filler, and glaze it with wax, even a connoisseur will not immediately distinguish such a Venetian from the most exquisite Carrara marble, the deposits of which are now almost exhausted.

veins

Darkish veins on natural marble are inclusions of bituminous marble. Their imitation is easy to obtain artificially: the next portion of the mixture is tinted with 5-15% carbon black, smears are made with a curved medical spatula and rubbed with a sponge. The next continuous layer without color is required.

Video: Venetian plaster lesson

Wax

The Venetian woman has a serious flaw and at the same time dignity: she breathes, i.e. hygroscopic. But even in the bathroom you sometimes want to make decorative plaster under some kind of natural stone. Here the French turned out to be the inventors: someone came up with the idea of ​​introducing 1/4-1/5 cellulose (vegetable) fibers into the filler, finely ground and boiled in wax. This is how Marseille wax plaster appeared, in fig. on the left, completely waterproof.

Replacing cellulose with lignin from wood waste, they then obtained Andalusian wax (center), which is rougher in appearance, but also cheaper. Now all "wax" plasters for rooms with high humidity are made ready for use on acrylic; their collective name is mizuri-type plasters, on the right in fig.

Video: an example of Roman plaster under a stone

fibrous

The next step in increasing the strength and aesthetic merits of plaster coatings was made again by the Italians. Instead of plant fibers, they used animals in the form of silk threads, obtaining a velvety ottocento plaster, on the left in fig. In modern times, the classic expensive ottocento has again been replaced with synthetics on acrylic, which is in no way inferior to it.

Trademarks of Ottocento analogues are velveton (center) and velvetex (right). What is the difference between them, the manufacturers themselves cannot really explain. In the conventional wisdom, it is believed that in velveton the fibrous additive is collected in more or less distinct conglomerates, and in velvetex it is more or less evenly distributed. Both are sold ready to use.

Textured

- the invention of the era of high technology. In essence, this is no longer plaster, but liquid wallpaper: textured elements are introduced into the finished mixture during manufacture. Textured plaster is applied without features; the finished surface is flat. Most of the time no grinding is required. There are textured plasters imitating a Venetian, but they do not breathe.

The texture can be either chaotic (see the figure on the left) or regular, and even with a claim to expressiveness: leaves, flowers, butterflies, etc. Textured plasters are in a state of rapid evolution in the direction - splashed on the wall from a bucket, dried up, Gioconda or Venus Botticelli turned out.

Textured plasters are used, as a rule, in the kitchen and in other small rooms with difficult temperature and humidity conditions, but where a colorful cheerful design is required: they are too expensive for finishing large areas, but they are absolutely hygienic and hygroscopic. They are not suitable for a bedroom and a nursery - they glare and do not breathe.

Structural

With structural plasters, there is some confusion in the definitions: some refer to them as any relief plasters, incl. stucco and stencil (see the figure in the paragraph and at the beginning of the text); others consider only ready-to-use self-forming ones to be structural, i.e. those that acquire a random unique relief when dried. We adhere to the second point of view, since the technology of applying those and others is very different: some need to be finished with hands in the presence of a fairly developed artistic taste, while others are simply smeared with a spatula, and the final result does not depend on the will and desire of the master.

Self-forming ready-made plasters are produced in industrial conditions, but the choice is unusually rich, and the range is constantly expanding. They are made on acrylic with synthetics, suitable for interior decoration of any premises.

Running textures - bark beetle (second and third from the left), terraco, extreme on the right - cheaper due to the mineral filler; are obtained by rolling with a roller and grouting over the top with a spatula. Structural plasters are easily supplemented with screen plasters, because relief is low.

Video: structural plastering

Flock

Flock is German for snowflake. Flocks (not ice, of course) are sprayed with a special sprayer onto a plastered surface covered with glue, see left in fig. After the glue dries, poorly adhered flocks are brushed off with a brush or brush and, also from a spray gun, acrylic varnish is applied. Flocks, adhesive and underlying plaster mix are sold ready to use in sets or individually. In this case, the packaging of the flocks indicates which underlying plaster and which adhesive they are compatible with.

Some craftsmen make flocks themselves, throw them in handfuls and blow, as soon as the glue starts to set, with a strong narrow stream of air from a vacuum cleaner to gently press down. Homemade flock plaster works well only on acrylic base; weakly adhere to silicone or mineral flocks.

Modeling

Modeling plasters, in essence, are a kind of flock: foreign granules are introduced into the ready-to-use mixture during its manufacture. By varying the composition of the mixture, the size, material and shape of the granules, coatings are obtained "lamb", under a fur coat, "orange peel", "rain", etc., see prev. rice. Application technique - conventional or spraying.