Electric drill for earthwork with your own hands. How convenient is a garden electric drill? Hand drill for the earth, its design and purpose

An electric drill for earthworks is successfully used in cases where it is necessary, for example, to drill a hole for piles, make a trench or a recess for mounting fence posts, drill a hole for planting a tree or shrub, etc.

Brief description of the device and the advantages of the equipment

By design, an electric earthmoving drill is an electric motor that has two handles and a clamping mechanism used for clamping. This tool is most often made in the form of an auger. It should be noted that the nozzles are removable and can be of different diameters, which allows you to adjust the size of the hole that will be drilled. It is also worth noting that there is a conditional division of drills into types, depending on their purpose. There are garden, earth and pile tools.

An electric drill for earthmoving is a rarity among people with suburban areas, despite the fact that it has some advantages. If we compare it with the manual type, then, of course, the plus is that the main rotational force occurs due to the electric motor, and not human forces.

If we compare the device with a gasoline unit, then the advantages include quiet operation, environmental friendliness and readiness to work (it is not necessary to start it like a gasoline unit).

Equipment application

As stated earlier, one of the biggest advantages in terms of using a drill is that it can handle pile recesses with ease. Of course, you can do this with a manual type of unit, but an electric drill for earthworks will cope with this task much faster. In addition, the presence of small stones or roots inside the soil will make it very difficult to dig a depression, if it is done manually, this is not a hindrance for an electric motor.

Another ease of use of the equipment is that it is more compact than a conventional drill, and therefore its operation in places with limited space is most acceptable. Small dimensions and high functionality of the unit are its main positive qualities. It is also worth adding that, in comparison with gasoline models, the weight of the electric drill is less, which makes it easier to work with it.

Models and flaw

Large models of motorized earth augers are also used for digging wells, for example. Types with a smaller diameter nozzle are used for home use (planting plants, installing poles, etc.). However, it should be noted that the line of models also includes multifunctional types with removable nozzles. This makes it possible to use them depending on the needs, as well as on the quality and type of soil with which you have to work.

Naturally, the main disadvantage of the drill is that its operation in places where there is no electricity is impossible. Yes, when you buy a device, there is usually a battery in the kit, but charging it lasts for a short period of time.

The principle of operation of the unit

An electric drill is an electric motor and a shaft of the type. When using such equipment, the hole in the ground will have smooth edges and a clear auger diameter. The direct drilling process is carried out due to the fact that the auger has a very sharp tip, as well as pointed helical blades. When the equipment is started, the electric motor starts to rotate, transmitting its force to the shaft to which the auger is attached. This is how drilling takes place.

Favorable cost of the device

The price of an electric drill for earthworks is also one of its advantages. The approximate cost of the device is 1,000 rubles. It is important to note here that for this amount the device itself and the basic nozzle that comes with the kit are purchased. And then you can purchase separately screws of different diameters, if necessary. Thus, the functionality of the equipment can be greatly increased at a minimal cost. The right choice will also help save money.

If you plan to use the device in the garden, that is, for garden needs, then a power of 1.5 kW will be enough. If you plan to drill holes for construction needs (pile foundation), then you will need a device with a power of 2 kW or more. If there is such a need, then electric units can be used for ice drilling.

Reviews of the electric drill for earthworks are mostly positive. Of the main qualities that buyers highlight, it is worth highlighting ease of use, low weight, quality of the device and its relatively low cost.

There are also negative reviews. However, most often they are left by people who have not figured out the rules for its operation and have purchased, say, a less powerful model than was required to work with a certain type of soil. Naturally, the result was poor.

From this it should be concluded that it is imperative to investigate the soil with which you will have to work, to determine for which type of work the tool is purchased, and only after that you should buy it. It is also recommended to purchase products from only trusted companies. It is better to pay a little more, but buy a higher quality item than pay less and buy the equipment again in a year.

Moto drills from "Hitachi"

Electric drills for earthworks "Hitachi" are quite high quality and reliable products. The manufacturer of this equipment is Japan. However, it should be noted that the assortment of goods is not too large. Of the electrical models, only garden types are available. This means that the manufacturer does not produce electric models with high power. Only gasoline models from this brand have high power ratings. Today, three main qualities can be distinguished, thanks to which Hitachi products have become quite popular.

The assembly quality of the units is very high.
The efficiency of these devices is also high.
The service life of the devices is quite long.

Product selection and operation

When buying an earthen motor-drill, it is best to always go to a specialized store, where they can help with the choice. However, there are several guidelines that should always be followed. Three parameters should always be paid special attention to - power, auger head size and engine displacement (if it is a gasoline model).

Quite often, when working with this tool, it happens that the drill buries itself in the ground. For this reason, almost all new models are equipped with a safety system that turns off the engine if this occurs. This system protects equipment from damage. To avoid such a shutdown, it is necessary to periodically stop work and clean the auger from dirt.

It is also designed to protect the unit from accidental starting or to protect a person if they lose control of the product.

Today you will not be surprised by the fact that experts often use an electric or gasoline drill for the earth. This allows them to significantly reduce the drilling time, and a person practically does not spend physical efforts with such equipment. In this article, maximum attention will be focused on electric drills for earthworks.

Modern Boers - species, which one to choose?

Initially, let's figure out what borax exist today. All models can be safely divided into three types.

Hand drills. This type is used for drilling, as a rule, single holes. When using it, you must apply a lot of physical strength.
Gasoline drills. This type of equipment is very common. It can be used for both individual construction and professional construction. The units are powerful and efficient.
Electric motor-drills. These units are not as powerful as gasoline units, however, their operation does not require a lot of physical effort. They are convenient for individual construction, when drilling holes for poles, when planting trees and bushes. However, it is worth remembering that a garden electric drill will only work if there is an extension cord for the electrical network.

Summing up, we can conclude:

the first type is simple, but not productive,
the second type is powerful, productive and can be used when working on any soil,
the third type (electric drill) is less productive, requires a wire extension cord, can be used for individual construction.

Given these characteristics, you can easily choose exactly the drill that is right for you!
Let's consider the technical characteristics of two models of electric drills.

Electric drill model Тexas ea1200

Let's consider its main technical characteristics:

power 1200 W;
maximum drilling diameter 150 mm;
maximum drilling depth 800 mm;
generated noise level 90 dB;
weight 12.8 kg.

Specifications:

power 1050 W;
maximum drilling depth 1 m;
drilling diameter range 80 - 200 mm;
weight 14 kg.

As can be seen from the presented technical characteristics, electric hole drills are significantly inferior to some models that run on a gasoline engine. Therefore, if you need to drill the soil often and a lot, then you should give preference to gasoline equipment. For infrequent use, electric is ideal.

You can make any drill with your own hands, however, to make an electric or gasoline drill, you will need a lot of parts, tools and a solid store of knowledge. Therefore, if you are thinking about a homemade storm, then the easiest way for you is to make a hand drill.

To make it, you don't need a lot of material and special tools. Particular attention should be paid during manufacturing to the drill blade. Often, a chainsaw blade is used to make a blade. It is cut into two parts with the help of the "Bulgarian" and welded to the bar at an angle. Such a drill can be used in a private economy, however, it should be understood that during its operation it will be necessary to apply a lot of physical strength.

The modern market is saturated with all kinds of construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, yamobur: today you can easily find a device, the cost of which is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush to such an acquisition. The fact is that in practice low-cost equipment does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.

It is not always advisable to buy a powerful and expensive device for a small amount of construction or garden work. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, the craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Drill Ground Drill

In most cases, a power drill is a power unit (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. The drill can be made by yourself.

Drill drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial performance.

skyle FORUMHOUSE user

Many say that they just bought such a screw and fixed it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine characteristics

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. To begin with, the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and during operation it has to be held by hand).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

At first, a reducer was planned, but after field tests with a drill-auger scheme, it was decided to abandon the reducer. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us for a reason. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user

There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a drill with a power of 2 kW and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of a drill is somewhere equal to 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension made of ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to get holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

N - power (W).
M - torque (Nm).
n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
9549 is a special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm - at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account the losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is also lower. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows, without changing the power, to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on the torque that a 2 kW drill creates (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your hole auger. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of the torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

The optimum speed while drilling is from 60 ... 100 to 200 ... 300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, the method of drilling, the type of drill bits, the diameter of the hole, etc.

Drilling methods are mentioned in the above quote. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a high torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also pulled out.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require large torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, on the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also meet the specified indicator.

Reducers for yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and assemblies that lay idle for a long time, because they did not find a worthy application for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical downshift can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

Equipping the drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal rotational speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to provide sufficient torque on its working shaft.

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gear from it. Sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum housing with a gearbox), then fixed it through a gear transmission to this gearbox an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13: 1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).

On the chain drive: possessing a certain amount of ingenuity, it is possible, without much effort, to build a completely reliable pit drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to manufacture it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Unless it can be used on very hard soils, but we do not have such.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. For example, here is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user

I found such a reducer. Here are just a large gear ratio - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (body) - about 15 x15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

Dee Gris FORUMHOUSE user

My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I am very satisfied. The engine is a Bulgarian (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but yamobur took the hard, rammed earth with inclusions of rubble and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are home-made - from the spring.

Stanina

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special bed.

The design of self-made beds, as well as of reduction mechanical transmissions, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

Lifting mechanism

A chain drive installed inside the B-pillar can be used as a lifting mechanism. Raising and lowering is carried out either with the help of an additional electric motor, or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). Deeper was not required. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the hoist involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

The main drill motor drives up and down the square tube. It moves at the expense of a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil out of the hole.

For convenience Mehanik020 made a remote control that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through a chain hoist). Power - 1 kW.

Lower bed support

The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation by a simple tilt of the bed will be transferred from the transport position to the working position.

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the bed, which, before starting work, will help to align the drill in accordance with the vertical level.

The materials for making the bed are selected for strength reasons. Not everyone can independently perform a complex design calculation, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.

So, the user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home laid in the construction of the bed a different metal profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“From what was” (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user

The most difficult thing was to find two straight one-piece three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they were not there, I would have bought a profile pipe of 80 or 100 mm. At the bottom, I used a piece of channel 80 and a scrap metal corner. I also found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.

Ideally, the carriage should be constructed in such a way that the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it, if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

This is what was used to protect against turning the drill: a 6 mm steel stop angle screwed to the hole for the handle, which is located on the drill body. Everything is bolted with sufficient surface flatness. If you want even more reliable - provide a clamp for the landing groove available on the drill end.

Mechanical drive

The design of a mechanical drive connecting a drill or other motor to the working shaft of an earth auger is not particularly complicated. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into a drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with a bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole between the drill and the drill, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted.

In order to prevent breakdowns when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made from a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user

Imagine if your drill bumped into a stone and jammed. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear pin, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then he does not give up sickly in his hands.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased in a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a small diameter garden hole, you can use ordinary truck springs.

Circular saw blades can be used to make blades.

The bit diameter should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Dropping the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:

The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25 ° to 30 °.
The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45 °… 60 °.
It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which it will be easier for the installation to enter dense soil.

How to fix a garden drill in a drill.

Fans of fishing in the winter season have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice screw. Both the professional angler and the novice alike know how this device makes it easy to drill holes in ice. Naturally, you can use an ice drill in the old fashioned way, breaking through the ice, but it will greatly facilitate the process of using an electric drill made at home. Moreover, if you have drawings and a desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice screw from a screwdriver with your own hands.

Advantages of a homemade electric drill

An automated homemade device made from a screwdriver has many advantages over store-bought products. The main advantages are:

self-connecting an electric drive is much cheaper than buying a factory product;
the manufacturing process requires a minimum of consumables and a standard set of tools;
improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

The result of the efforts of a home craftsman will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable fishing assistant on winter fishing.

In order for a self-made ice drilling product to cope with the tasks set, it is important to choose the right model of a screwdriver with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will lead to problems when drilling holes in thick ice.

Considering that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with a rechargeable battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shock and other troubles that happen on fishing.

A power tool for a homemade ice screw must meet the following characteristics:

An excellent product is the powerful Bosch brand ice screwdriver. You can also use a good Japanese Makita brand power tool. Although it all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the angler. The main thing is that the product is suitable for the power and capacity of the battery.

Battery types

Today, an autonomous electric screwdriver, which can be used to make an electric drill yourself, is equipped with different batteries. At the same time, the following batteries are popular:

The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, has a high charging speed, but is afraid of low temperatures. Plus, such a battery has a high cost.
The nickel-cadmium battery is heavy, but it can operate at extremely low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.

Seasoned anglers always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from draining quickly, it is better to store it under a jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries can significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.

Electric screwdriver substitutes

Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable ... DIYers can easily adapt other tools:

electric drill;
electric wrench;
chainsaw.

The latter option is convenient in that it runs on gasoline, and not on a rechargeable battery. However, it is very difficult to make an ice drill from a chainsaw at home without a special tool and a lathe.

It is important to understand that not every model of ice screw can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of unwinding the chuck of the power tool. This causes a lot of inconvenience on winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.

Therefore, when making an automatic ice drill, it is better to give preference to imported models. Any Mora model that easily adapts to an electric tool is ideal. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought at the store, which will allow you to connect the cartridge to the auger with high quality.

The "Tonar" model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company is engaged in the production of removable augers with cutting heads, which are easy to connect with a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can adapt a store-bought extension cord.

Features of the manufacture of the screw part

Most fishermen are used to making their own accessories. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. To manufacture such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:

Metal pipe of suitable diameter.
Metal plates for the manufacture of auger.
Quality steel knives.

To connect all the individual elements, electric welding will be required. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted for corrosion protection. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore, it is better to buy the finished product in the store.

Cutting part

Every fisherman dreams of fishing comfort... It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:

Blade hardening. In modern models of drills, blades with hardness values from 30 to 70 units are used.
Cutting knife workmanship. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.

The choice of steel in the manufacture of a do-it-yourself electric drill is important if all its parts, except for the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy a ready-made model in a store, you can not pay attention to this parameter. The following materials are used for the manufacture of the cutting part:

Hard special steel grade P18 or similar analogues. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of the sharpening.
Titanium coated metal. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.

DIY adapter preparation

It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If the Swedish drill Mora is used, then an adapter for an ice drill for a screwdriver of the following type is suitable:

for the standard model, a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm is required;
if a Mora Nova is used, the adapter must be 2.2 cm in diameter.

To prevent the auger from spinning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal working surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.

There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use while drilling ice. The adapter model with a diameter of 1.8 cm from Higashi goes well with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.

Assembly of individual elements

Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can start assembling an ice screw with your own hands at home. This is a straightforward process if you have prepared the elements discussed earlier:

auger part of the drill;
electric screwdriver;
adapter of appropriate diameter.

The chuck is connected to the auger using an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated ice drill.

Instrument care rules

Whatever ice screw is made on the basis of a screwdriver, so that it works as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:

As you can see, making an ice screw with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to choose the right adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single structure, you will get an irreplaceable helper in winter fishing. Such a tool will allow you to drill a hole in ice of any thickness in a few minutes.

Drill Ground Drill

Drill drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial performance.

skyle FORUMHOUSE user

Many say that they just bought such a screw and fixed it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine characteristics

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us for a reason. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user

In order to get holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

N - power (W).
M - torque (Nm).
n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
9549 is a special coefficient.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

The optimum speed while drilling is from 60 ... 100 to 200 ... 300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, the method of drilling, the type of drill bits, the diameter of the hole, etc.

Drilling methods are mentioned in the above quote. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a high torque.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require large torques.

Reducers for yamobur and their varieties

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user

I found such a reducer. Here are just a large gear ratio - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (body) - about 15 x15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

Dee Gris FORUMHOUSE user

Stanina

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special bed.

The design of self-made beds, as well as of reduction mechanical transmissions, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

Lifting mechanism

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). Deeper was not required. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the hoist involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

The main drill motor drives up and down the square tube. It moves at the expense of a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil out of the hole.

For convenience Mehanik020 made a remote control that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through a chain hoist). Power - 1 kW.

Lower bed support

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the bed, which, before starting work, will help to align the drill in accordance with the vertical level.

So, the user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“From what was” (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user

Ideally, the carriage should be constructed in such a way that the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it, if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

Mechanical drive

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user

Homemade drill

Circular saw blades can be used to make blades.

The bit diameter should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Dropping the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:

The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25 ° to 30 °.
The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45 °… 60 °.
It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which it will be easier for the installation to enter dense soil.

How to fix a garden drill in a drill.