Do-it-yourself blind area around the house made of concrete. Do-it-yourself blind area - step-by-step instructions

The blind area of ​​a house is one of the important aspects in creating a long and comfortable operation the house itself. It creates protection for the foundation and soil around the circumference from moisture. After intense rain or snowfall, or melting snow, water may accumulate near the building. It can also drain from the roof. Moisture can have a destructive effect on the top layer of soil and reach the foundation. If this happens, the bearing potential of the foundation will be seriously weakened. As a result, the entire structure may collapse.

When creating a drain, creating a blind area is mandatory. The drain will protect the soil from water coming from the roof, but will not protect it from precipitation.

It is extremely important to properly build a blind area when you have a shallow foundation. Its sole is quite close to the surface, and water can reach its very depth without any problems. Then the strength of the sole will disappear, the sole itself will sag, and the foundation will lose its shape and begin to collapse.

A blind area should also be created with a built-in buried foundation.

To create a strong, durable blind area, you will need to choose the right materials High Quality and strictly adhere to the technological aspects of construction.

Tile blind area.

Determining the width of the blind area

The main task of the blind area is protection. And its width is the parameter that should be the maximum possible. Its recommended minimum value is 80 cm. And the maximum numbers are a purely business matter. There are no standards here. The required width will ensure that moisture is absorbed into the soil far from the house.

When determining the width, it is worth considering one more task of the blind area - path around the perimeter of the building. The blind area should ensure free movement along this path: no walking sideways or close to the wall. Taking this factor into account, the width should be set in the range of 100 – 250 cm.

The blind area should be formed with a slope. This will allow water to drain away from the walls of the building. According to Soviet standards, the slope parameter is as follows: 5 – 10 cm per 100 cm width. That is, the edge of the blind area, whose width is 100 cm, will reach a height of 5–10 cm near the wall of the building. Its other edge will be flush with the ground. This results in a rather steep descent. It is optimal for fast and efficient water drainage. But moving along such a blind area will be problematic. If the angle of inclination is reduced, the flow rate will drop significantly, and water may generally accumulate on the surface. Although movement along the blind area will be comfortable.

Provided the surface of the blind area is ideal (evenness, smoothness), a slope of 1 cm is acceptable. However, it will be difficult to move on such a surface winter time- very slippery.

If a material with a rough surface is used for the assigned tasks, the minimum tilt value is 1.5 - 2 cm.

When a blind area is created around a non-residential building, for example, the recommended angle at the entrance is: 2 - 3 cm. This way the surface will receive high-quality protection from rainwater. It will quickly drain, without penetrating into it and not freezing in the cold. And your garage will not have puddles and ice.

Selection of materials

This task should be approached extremely seriously. Exist different variants materials for creating a blind area. The most popular is considered reinforced concrete.

When using it, the work is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. Clearing the site for future construction.
2. Reinforcing bars (minimum diameter - 6 mm) form a mesh. Its cells are as follows: 30 x 30 cm. The cells are connected with knitting wire.
3. Installation of formwork. For this, boards are used.
4. Pouring formwork.

Before creating the blind area, its base is prepared: along the perimeter of the building along the width of the blind area, the top soil layer is eliminated - approximately 13 cm. At the walls, the depth should slightly exceed the specified parameter. Flooded concrete mixture should flow towards the house, slightly squeezing it. Any other fastenings of the blind area to the building are not necessary.

Then they are marked boundaries of the blind area. The pegs come into play. They are driven in. A cord runs between them. The bottom of the trench is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. Concrete will be placed on it.

If in work area The soil is sandy, the use of sand can be eliminated. Place on this layer formwork, reinforcement cage, concrete pouring follows. Reinforcing elements must be completely concentrated in the concrete base. To do this, the base rises a little.

Concrete is created in the following proportions:

• cement M400: 1 share,
• sand: 2 shares,
• crushed stone: 4 or 5 shares.

Concrete blind area.

Radioactive materials

If you intend to build a blind area from ash - the result of coal combustion at a thermal power plant, be vigilant. Ash can be a source of radiation. And this will have a detrimental effect on the health of residents.

As a rule, coal mining is carried out in Russian mines. There is a very high level of radiation there. Radiation checks are not carried out at thermal power plants. There important factor– ash content of coal. Therefore, by purchasing ash and using it in construction activities, you risk seriously deteriorating your health. To reduce the risk, purchase ash with a dosimeter. This device will calculate her radiation level.

Also included in the category of radiation materials is cinder block. It also contains ash. There are known cases of determining very high levels of radiation in residential premises created from such blocks.

It is extremely rare that increased radiation occurs near foundation blocks and reinforced concrete slabs. In construction, sawdust blocks can be used instead of cinder blocks. This option is completely environmentally friendly.

Metal can also give off radiation. This applies to both black and colored varieties. A dangerous background is most often present in melted metal. The echo of Chernobyl speaks here. A lot of metals were taken out and melted from this zone. And there is some probability that when buying metal product for the blind area, you acquire the “element” of Chernobyl. When purchasing, also use a dosimeter.

Working on the covering for the blind area

After the concrete mixture has completely hardened, a coating can be laid on it. Very often the coating is formed from figured paving elements (FEMs), or from granite paving stones.

The first ones differ in their quality and appearance. Acid-resistant bricks with dimensions of 12 x 25 x 5 cm are considered high-quality options. They cope excellently with loads from frequent movement and walking, as well as natural conditions.

Standard FEMs do not have the required strength. This negatively affects their service life. It hardly reaches 5 years. After this period, their original appearance is completely lost. Such coating should last at least 10 years.

Paving stones are an excellent option for covering. Its strength is high, its service life is decent, and it has a rich color range. It can be used as a mosaic and formed into intricate patterns. Her main drawback associated with its enormous price.

Coverage example

The nuances of creating a blind area around the house yourself

In this work it is worth paying attention to the following nuances:

1. Don't build a blind area immediately after the construction of the basement. When backfilling is performed, the trench is filled with soil that was previously removed from it. That is, black soil, clay, etc. are used. To a certain extent, there is subsidence of any soil. It takes time for it to completely subside. If you build a blind area right away, without waiting for this subsidence, then if moisture penetrates into the soil, it will begin to sag, changing the shape of the blind area. And cracks form on its surface. To prevent such a picture, backfill make it from sand that easily permeates water. When you water it correctly and level it, the blind area can be created within 24 hours. Although it is better to start this construction after the construction of the building box or 8-12 months after work on the foundation.
2. To cover Do not use porcelain tiles. It has a smooth, slippery and traumatic surface. In addition, it has a very modest service life. After all, it is laid directly on a concrete plane, which expands in cold weather. And such a coating will soon burst.

Principles of installation of FEM

To lay this material, use a mixture created from a bucket of cement (grade M400) and 3-4 buckets of sand, as well as 70 grams detergent. The last component protects the created composition from subsidence.

There is a more economical version of installation - on sand. But the service life of the coating in this situation will be short. When moisture penetrates the sand, the material will sag and will need to be re-laid or completely replaced.

Another economical option with similar characteristics is laying on a dry mixture. This way the surface will retain its pleasant appearance a little longer. Therefore, the first proposed option remains the most optimal.

Example

Creating blind area protection

As you know, the main task of the blind area is protective. But it is advisable to protect this structure itself from water coming from the roof. Here it is necessary to arrange a high-quality outlet in the format of gutters. They will be organized along the entire perimeter of the roof. This way, the water will first end up in the gutters and flow through them into the drain pipe. As a result, it will still end up on the blind area, but the height of its flow will be radically reduced. The impact on the surface of the blind area will also be reduced.

According to old standards, diversion technology was used for buildings with more than two floors. Nowadays, allotments are arranged in any private houses.

Examples:

It wouldn’t hurt to insulate the blind area additionally. This way the soil will freeze less in cold weather. For such purposes, the concrete composition is castled: instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used.

More good technique insulation: fill the blind area in two layers, with insulation installed between them, for example.

Final requirements for the blind area:

1. Optimal width for efficient drainage and comfortable walking: 1-2 m.
2. The optimal slope according to the same criteria: 1.5 cm (per meter of width).
3. When creating the foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench with a slight slope towards the residential building. The blind area should be in close contact with the house throughout its entire depth.
4. Optimal and safe material– reinforced concrete. It guarantees excellent results in terms of strength and durability.
5. The best option for coating is acid-resistant brick - FEM. It is laid on a concrete mixture.
6. No matter how many floors there are in a built house, high-quality drainage is necessary. It will seriously increase the service life of the blind area.

An example of a finished blind area with drainage.

Video instructions

Alexander Kvasha’s video on creating a blind area with your own hands is not only one of the most popular. The authors of the material did not turn off the ability to comment, so viewers were able to actively criticize the presented material and analyze errors in detail.

Saving on construction is a difficult stage, where the quality/cost line is important, so that you don’t go broke on repairs in the future, and at the same time, feel quite comfortable when operating the structure.

The blind area should be built after the foundation, basement, walls, and roof have been completely built. Although, the blind area can be constructed at almost any stage of construction, after the walls have been laid. But the blind area after all stages of construction will be the cheapest and least time-consuming, because in this case you save on calculations and errors, and the formwork can be constructed on only three sides.

How to make a blind area correctly?

A concrete blind area of ​​70 cm around the entire house will be the most simple option. To build a high-quality blind area, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The width of the blind area should be greater than the protruding part of the roof, usually by at least 20 cm. This is done so that moisture dripping from the roof does not deform land plot, which actively affects the quality of the foundation.
2. The blind area should be continuous, monolithic around the entire house. Only in this case will the foundation be safely protected from moisture, which, however, does not exclude waterproofing in any case.
3. A wider blind area is also more functional in terms of protection from moisture.
4. The slope of the blind area will optimally provide drainage at 1.5 degrees. You can make the slope larger, but remember that on a steeper slope in winter you can slip. The slope is formed at the stage of the underlying layer, and it is also possible at the stage of laying the covering.
5. A blind area made in accordance with all the rules ensures high quality, savings and no repairs, and a long service life for both the blind area and the plinth.

The blind area is two structural layers

1. The underlying layer is a smooth, compacted base for the coating. For him, materials such as clay, fine crushed stone, and sand are used. The material of the underlying layer directly depends on the coating material used. Thickness up to 2 cm.
2. The coating must be completely waterproof and resistant to the destructive effects of water. They use clay, concrete, asphalt, and small cobblestones. Layer thickness up to 10cm.

These layers are necessary for any blind area.

It is necessary to mark for the future blind area

In our case, the width of the blind area is 100cm. The soil along the entire perimeter of the house must be removed to a depth of 20-25 cm. As a rule, the soil here is removed at the very beginning of building a house. You should dig to the entire width of the blind area of ​​1 m. The calculation is also based on the material with which the blind area is laid. Regarding a blind area made of concrete, a depth of 20-25 cm is required; relative to other materials, a different depth is needed.

Some developers recommend immediately after digging a trench around the house, leveling the floor and walls, and then immediately covering them with herbicides. So that the roots of the plants do not grow later and damage the blind area. It's your own choice.

The formwork is made of boards. As a rule, 2cm thick boards are used for this.

A layer of clay of several centimeters should be laid on the soil that we have compacted. Then, it is necessary to level the layer and compact it.

A layer of sand is laid 10 cm thick. It is also carefully compacted. To make the compaction process easier, moisten the sand with water. But not abundantly, so that the water does not reach the clay.

Then there is a layer of crushed stone of 5-10 cm.

To strengthen the blind area, reinforce it with fiberglass reinforcement at 10cm intervals at the joints. Reinforcement makes it possible to achieve concrete resistance not only to compression, but also to tension. Earth displacement occurs frequently, so reinforcement is required in any case.

At the junction of the blind area with the walls of the basement, you need to make a seam. It's called compensatory. Also, this seam is called a deformation or temperature seam. This seam will protect the base and blind area from ground subsidence and further destruction. In this case, the blind area will lower, but the movement will not damage the base, since all the mechanical impact will be on the seam. The width of such a seam is up to 1.5 cm. It should be made from a mixture of fine gravel and sand, bitumen, mastic, or two layers of roofing material. Some even use a tourniquet made of foamed polyethylene. The diameter of such a bundle is a quarter larger than the width of the seam. Thus, the rope fits very tightly into the seam gap.

Features when placing the tourniquet - it should go completely into the gap, and leave a little space on top. Those. There should be a depth at the top free from everything, which is equal to half the width of the seam. A piece of plywood will allow you to this process faster.

In our case, a simple sealant was used.

When pouring the blind area, you should do it across every 2 meters expansion joint. They preserve the blind area from ruptures in winter period. Wood slats, placed on edge are perfect for these purposes. The surface of the slats should be flush with the surface of the blind area. The slope of the blind area should also be taken into account, and therefore, place the slats either on a slope, or make the slats pre-slanted on the edge, to match the slope. To protect wooden inserts from rotting, they should be treated with bitumen mastic.

Expansion joints should also be installed in the corners of the house. Those. at the corners of the blind area.

In addition to pouring the concrete, it should also be compacted and leveled. The slats will help you navigate the height of concrete pouring. Just wait until it hardens completely.

Ironing gives the greatest strength to the formwork. Ironing, fulfilled wet method, will help the blind area achieve the greatest water resistance.

The last stage is covering concrete surface with fabric material, gradually, as it dries, wetting the fabric with water. This will help keep the concrete from drying out before it finally hardens. If you have to lay a blind area during the rainy season, then you can do without moisture.

In 2 weeks the blind area will be ready.

Repair of concrete blind area

If you properly lay the foundation, basement and blind area of ​​your house, you will not have any problems for many years. But what to do if they appear? For example, is the blind area cracked? Yes, even significantly.

It will be enough to fill small cracks with a portion of the concrete mixture in a 1:1 ratio.

Larger cracks should be cut out to the full depth of their formation, the recess should be cleared of dust, dirt and other debris, and filled with liquid mastic (2/3 bitumen, BND-90/130, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos material). Then sprinkle the filled cracks with any sand.

If the destruction of the blind area turns out to be even more significant, then it should be fully restored using a fresh portion of concrete and a couple of simple manipulations. The surface must be cleaned of dirt and primed. For the latter, a cement solution is suitable. Place the fresh mixture and level it. Then, it is necessary to prevent the fresh concrete mixture from drying out until it has completely hardened. Those. Moisten it steadily, at the slightest drying, and cover with polyethylene film.

Repair of the blind area is best done in spring period, or autumn. Need cool weather. At summer period– you should choose the morning as the best time for work. Because because of high temperatures the concrete will expand and the cracks will narrow. In winter, working with concrete is impossible.

Do not forget that the brand of concrete also affects the level of strength of the blind area. It is easy to find 500 grade cement on sale, which we then divide into the required proportions. With the highest density of 500 grade, the blind area will be very strong, and it will really last for decades. If only because it is the 500 grade of cement that is used for the construction of large bridges and tall buildings over 30 floors.

Video instructions for building a blind area

The blind area surrounding the house plays very important role in ensuring long and comfortable use of the home. It protects the foundation structure and the soil around it from water ingress. The accumulation of moisture near the house when snow melts or during precipitation can wash away upper layer soil and reach the foundation. If it manages to seep to the base of the foundation and damage it, then it load bearing capacity and strength will be reduced, which may result in the destruction of the house. It is especially important to do it correctly when using a shallow base, in which the sole is close to the surface, which is why moisture can easily reach its depth.

The width of the blind area should be as wide as possible, since it should protect the base.

As a result of getting wet, the strength of the sole decreases, and it begins to sag unevenly, destroying the foundation. However, even if buried foundations are used, it is also necessary. It must always be done, regardless of the foundation design, soil type and other conditions.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

How to properly make a high-quality one so that it lasts as long as possible and becomes reliable protection for the foundation? To do this you need to select suitable material good quality and strictly follow technology.

First of all, you need to choose the width. Since it must protect the base, its width should be as wide as possible.

Scheme of the blind area around the house.

Except protective function, the blind area around the house is also erected as a path around the perimeter of the building. This also needs to be taken into account when choosing its width, so that in the future you do not have to walk on it sideways. Based on the above, we can conclude that the most optimal width of a properly made blind area around the house that meets all standards and requirements is within the range of about 1-2.5 m.

The blind area around the house must be made with a certain slope, which will ensure that water flows away from the walls of the building. Building codes determine the slope to be 50-100 mm per 1 m of width. This means that the edge of the blind area around the house, the width of which is 1 m, will have a height of 50-100 mm near the wall of the house, and its other edge will be located flush with the ground. The resulting slope is good for draining water from the building: water will flow down it quickly enough, but it is difficult to walk on such a blind area. However, if you make the angle of inclination smaller, then the water will flow much more slowly or even linger on the surface, but walking will be much more comfortable. A compromise between efficiency and comfort is considered to be a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width. When walking, such a slope is almost unnoticeable, and the water completely flows down and does not linger on the surface.

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Materials and covering for the blind area around the house

Scheme of the blind area.

In order to properly make a blind area around the house yourself, you need to prepare the appropriate materials. There are several popular options for its manufacture, which use various materials, but the most common is a concrete blind area.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. First of all, the area for the blind area is cleaned, after which reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm or more are laid in the form of a mesh. The rods are connected to each other using binding wire. Next, formwork made from wooden planks. At the end, the formwork is filled with concrete mortar.

To make a blind area around the house yourself, prepare the following tools and materials:

• Shovel;
• Hydraulic level;
• Wheelbarrow for transporting crushed stone and removing soil;
• Manual tamping;
• Waterproofing materials;
• Insulation;
• Sand;
• Crushed stone;
• Clay;
• Reinforced mesh with 10x10 cells or reinforcement bars.

Before starting work, it is advisable to complete the necessary preparatory actions, for which you should organize free access to the house from all sides, as well as prepare the previously listed tools and materials.

The next stage is execution marking works. It is most convenient to carry out this procedure using wooden or metal pegs (driven in around the perimeter of the future) and a cord stretched between them. In this case, you need to ensure that the blind area has the same width at all points (usually around private houses with a width of 1 m).

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Concrete blind area around the house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Scheme of the construction of a concrete blind area.

The durability of the foundation, as well as the amount of money and time spent on constructing the structure itself, depends on the blind area, made in accordance with all rules and regulations. It is better to take care of creating a blind area immediately after completing the construction of the house.

The blind area around the house consists of 2 structural layers. The first of these is the underlying layer. The main task of this layer is to create a compacted, even base for the coating. Material used: sand, clay or small crushed stone. Layer thickness – up to 20 mm. The choice of material for the underlying layer depends entirely on the material of the second layer, i.e. coverings. The main purpose of the coating is resistance to the destructive effects of moisture and water resistance. Material used: clay (it can be used both as a base layer and to create a coating), asphalt mixture, concrete, small cobblestones. Layer thickness – up to 100 mm.

Diagram of a concrete blind area.

This is true for any type of blind area around the house. The following will provide instructions for constructing a blind area using the example of the most popular option – concrete.

To prepare the concrete mixture, you need to take M400 cement, crushed stone and sand in proportions 1:4:2.

Make markings for the future blind area around the house. The minimum width of the structure was discussed earlier. Remove and compact the soil around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed while still zero cycle construction work. When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the ground specifically for the width of the future structure in accordance with the markings made. It is necessary to take into account what material will be used during construction. To do this, you need to remove the soil to a depth of about 25 cm (“on the bayonet of a shovel”).

The next step is making formwork from boards. For formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm are used. A small layer of clay is placed on the compacted soil. The clay is leveled and compacted. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is laid. The sand must be thoroughly compacted, for which it should be additionally spilled with water. Try not to overdo it. Remember that there is clay below. Sand near the foundation must be compacted especially carefully. Now you need to lay crushed stone in a layer of 60-70 mm.

A blind area is a horizontal wide strip of concrete, stone, asphalt or other material that runs around the house at an angle. It is needed to remove precipitation, because rain or melting snow negatively affects the condition of the foundation and walls of the building, especially wooden ones. Due to regular exposure to moisture, a log or timber darkens over time, rots and molds, the foundation sags and cracks, and the basement or basement begins to flood. To avoid these problems, blind areas are used.

Why are blind areas needed?

Note that pile and screw foundations do not need blind areas. In this case, you only need to install protective coatings in places where water drains from the roof. Other types of foundation require the organization of blind areas, which perform a number of important functions:

• Drain rain and melt water from the walls and foundation of the house;
• Prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and rot;
• Prevents the foundation from subsiding too much and protects against cracks and splits;
• Minimize the risk of flooding in the basement, underground or ground floor;
• Reduce soil freezing under the building and increase thermal insulation;
• Preserve the original appearance of the house;
• Increase the service life of the foundation and the structure as a whole;
• They complete the facade of the house, making the building complete and attractive.

Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not difficult. The process begins after construction is completed. If you haven't chosen a project yet country cottage or dachas, a lot interesting options you will find in the “MariSrub” catalogue. And in the article we will look at how to properly make and fill a blind area around the house.

Design specifics

The blind area is made according to certain dimensions. Main role width and angle of inclination play a role. To determine the minimum width for a house, add 30 centimeters to the roof overhang. But in any case, the width of the blind area around the house should not be less than 60 centimeters. Suitable size one meter is considered. The wider the blind area, the more functional it is.

The slope of the structure is made away from the house; due to this slope, water drains and leaves the walls of the building. The most suitable tilt angle is 3-10 degrees, but in some cases 1.5-2 is sufficient. The markings are made not from the edge of the roof, but from the walls. The seams between the building and the blind area are additionally filled with sand. For pouring, choose only high-quality reliable concrete not lower than grade M 250, in in rare cases you can take M 200.

For the manufacture of blind areas, various materials are chosen. Today, the market offers a wide selection of concrete and stone pavers, which vary in color, shape, size and design. Stone materials look natural and aesthetically pleasing, but are more difficult to install. The suitable thickness of the paving stone blind area is 5-6 meters.

It is advantageous to choose paving slabs, as they are suitable for repair. If necessary, you can quickly and easily replace damaged tiles. You can see the square and rectangular tiles different textures and colors.

The most economical and quick option— use of concrete and/or crushed stone. The thickness of the concrete blind area is 7-10 centimeters, of crushed stone - at least ten. Instead of crushed stone, you can use expanded clay, gravel or pebbles. The result is a strong and reliable blind area, which is closed from above decorative tiles, stones or leave rubble. We will consider the manufacture of a concrete blind area, since such a structure can be made independently without professional training.

How to make a blind area correctly: step-by-step instructions

• Prepare and compact the ground where the blind area is planned;
• Mark the future structure using pegs placed in the corners of the house, rope or boundary boards;
• Dig a hole 20-25 centimeters down;
• Install formwork along the outer perimeter of the trench. Formwork is made of boards, wooden blocks or slats, which are installed vertically and fixed;
• Pour sand in a layer five to ten centimeters high. Then pour the sand generously with water and compact it;
• Pour a layer of gravel or crushed stone on top and level it;
• After preparation sand cushion and a layer of gravel, a compensating (deformation and temperature) seam is made, i.e. between the blind area and the walls/basement of the building, a layer of sand (gravel) is poured or roofing felt is laid solidly or every two meters;
• Then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork. For self-made solution, take sand, crushed stone and cement in a parts ratio of 3:5:1. Add water to the composition in a volume of 60% of the taken cement and mix the mixture thoroughly;
• Concrete is poured carefully and gradually in several layers, taking into account the slope in an approximate ratio of 15 mm per meter of width;
• Cover the poured surface plastic film and leave until completely dry; in dry and hot weather, water the surface with cool water;
• Subsequently, the joints between the house and the blind area are filled with sealant;
• You can leave the concrete surface in this form or give it an aesthetic appearance. appearance using tiles, bricks or paving stones, install a border. But if the design is done correctly, there is no need for a curb.

Final work

The appearance of cracks and crevices - the main problem blind area that occurs during operation. This occurs due to frost, temperature changes and soil subsidence. To reduce the number of defects, additional insulation, expansion joints and installation of a drainage system with gutters (storm drainage) are used.

If you want to insulate the structure, add concrete mortar expanded clay during mixing. Insulation reduces soil freezing, which will reduce the number of cracks that appear during operation. In addition, for additional insulation, concrete is poured in two layers, between which a special insulation is laid.

To make an expansion joint, the gap between the foundation walls and the structure is covered with gravel or sand, filled with mastic, or two or three layers of roofing material are laid. This layer will preserve the blind area during soil subsidence and prevent cracking and splitting.

If cracks do form, a liquid cement solution will help eliminate the defect. To repair, you need to cut out the splits completely and clean them of dirt, then pour them inside cement composition. Fill the hole with mastic and pour sand on top. Large and deep cracks or splits are filled with fresh concrete.

Storm sewer

In order for blind areas to be as effective as possible, you need to install a storm sewer or drainage system on summer cottage. A suitable option There will be an open or linear structure, which involves the placement of gutters along the surface of the site. Water from roofs, decks, sidewalks and walkways flows through pipes into these gutters and is then sent to a reservoir or sewer system. The gutters are covered with gratings to protect from debris and provide an aesthetic appearance.

Open storm drain is easy to install and use, covers large territory, therefore, this type of drainage is chosen by many summer residents and owners of suburban areas. A more complex, but also more aesthetic option is a closed or point storm design. In this case, gutters and channels are installed underground. Such a system should be developed at the design stage country house. There is also a mixed type of storm drainage, which includes both surface and underground gutters.

If installed incorrectly storm system, pouring a blind area or using low-quality materials the design will be ineffective and will not last even five years. Trust the work to experts and professionals! The builders of “MariSrub” will select durable quality materials, will competently calculate, reliably and in a short time will carry out the blind area, install gutters and a drainage system. We build quality wooden houses from timber and logs on a turnkey basis or for shrinkage inexpensively!

A blind area is understood as a waterproofing strip around a building made of any materials. It provides protection for the home because it acts as a buffer between the foundation of the building and precipitation. Neglecting this element of the foundation significantly reduces the service life of the building as a whole, since the foundation itself is unprotected from the destructive effects of moisture, especially in winter. It is quite possible to equip the blind area with your own hands, especially if you choose materials that do not require the use of construction equipment during installation.

Design of the blind area

Before you start making a waterproofing strip around the house with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for such a design:

• Width - this figure is determined according to SNiP 2.02.01-83, according to which the blind area needs to be made 20 cm wider roofing material roofs. If there is a drain, then its parameters should also be taken into account, ensuring that water reaches the waterproofing layer and not the soil. SNiP also recommend taking into account the type of soil; on average, the width of the strip is 1 m, since it allows it to be used as a path around the house.
• Length - corresponds to the perimeter of the building, the only exception is the porch, which also needs to be walked around the edge
• Depth level - this value corresponds to at least 1/2 of the calculated depth of soil freezing, which makes it possible to take into account the characteristics of the region. This formation is freely available. The presence of pipelines in the soil is also taken into account - they affect the depth of freezing.

• Thickness directly depends on the material used, in particular, concrete is poured in a layer of only 10 cm. If it is intended that the strip will serve as a pedestrian path or a vehicle collision is possible, then it is worth increasing the thickness to 15 cm.
• Slope - in accordance with the recommendations of SNiP III-10-75, according to which it ranges from 1 to 10%. The slope is made from the foundation, which eliminates stagnation of water. This takes into account both the amount of precipitation in the region and the type of soil. The more precipitation there is, the greater the slope should be - at least 3%, which allows you to overcome ice if it appears.
• Border - does not carry any functional load and is exclusively decorative element However, if plants with a powerful superficial root system are planted along the strip, then it will become an obstacle to the roots.
• Base height - according to standards, the lower value is limited to 50 cm; if soft blind areas are installed, then the height of the base can be from 30 cm.
• The height above ground level should be at least 50 mm, which will allow water not to stagnate at the edge of the blind area. Puddles are especially dangerous in winter because they destroy the structure when they freeze.

Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions

Marking

To start work, we outline the perimeter of the blind area and dig a trench. The choice of pit depth depends on the type of soil, but not less than 0.15-0.20 m. As for the width, it is calculated as the width of the roof plus 20-30 cm - this is the acceptable minimum. Marking is carried out in the following way:
1. Drive pegs or metal rods into the soil at the corners of the future trench
2. Install intermediate pegs, maintaining the accepted width
3. We stretch the cord, connecting the marks into a single perimeter - this line will become a guideline for digging a hole.

When starting the construction of a blind area, it is important to decide on the type of structure; most often it is made of concrete, since it is the simplest and cheap option. Concrete also has a long service life and can be easily repaired if necessary. Before starting work, you should pay attention to the weather - it should be dry and warm, the arrangement must be completed before the onset of cold weather.

Preparation

As for preparing the area around the building, it is necessary to get rid of all debris, boulders and select the width of the structure - mark the perimeter of the roof and add 20 cm. Most blind areas have a width of 60-100 cm - this depends both on the perimeter of the roof and on the purpose of the waterproof strip, which is often used for passage.

We mark the edge of the future strip and drive pegs around the perimeter.

It is important to make the waterproofing tape the same width - only in this case will the structure have an aesthetic appearance.

We get rid of the soil by digging a trench 25-30 cm deep, removing stones and large roots. To prevent further growth of the plant root system, we treat the soil with herbicides, which will prevent deformation of the blind area. This must be done, otherwise there will be a need for repairs in the near future.

Formwork

To complete the formwork, you need to prepare the boards - building materials 20 mm thick are enough. We drive support posts into the ground in increments of 1.5 m along the perimeter of the dug trench - they will be the support for the formwork, it is to them that the boards will have to be attached future form. It is important to attach the formwork boards evenly, avoiding unevenness.

Making a pillow

Lay the pillow - the lowest layer should be a layer of clay with high degree waterproofing. The next layer of the multi-layer cake will be a strip of sand - 10 cm is enough, the main thing is that it is compacted tightly.

To ensure the required density, you can slightly moisten the sand.

Reinforcement, pouring and drying

To increase the strength of the blind area, reinforcement is performed using mesh or reinforcement - it is laid crosswise in 10 cm increments on the crushed stone. After this, you can pour the solution into the equipment and leave it to dry.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: important stages of work

It is not enough to simply pour concrete into the formwork, as it will simply crack in the coming winter. It’s worth asking a professional how to fill the strip correctly - it’s important to observe the following nuances:

How expansion joints are made

They are used to prevent swelling and cracking in concrete due to temperature changes in the volume of the material.

To create such a seam, it is necessary to secure wooden slats treated with an antiseptic compound or tarred with an edge.

We install the slats every 2-2.5 m. It is also necessary to make seams at the corners, placing them diagonally.

The slats are immediately installed with a mandatory slope, since they will be oriented towards them when pouring concrete. In addition to wood, expansion joints may contain butyl rubber tape or a hydro-swelling cord - such materials are also capable of changing volume and are non-hygroscopic.

How to mix concrete mixture

Pouring begins with mixing cement mortar. The ratio should take into account the brand of cement. In any case, it should be no lower than M200.

To prepare the solution, you must have a concrete mixer, since it will not be possible to manually provide the required consistency.

As for the recipe, you should not mix the components “by eye” - in this case, the appearance of cracks will be inevitable. Therefore, it is better to immediately maintain the required proportions than to carry out repairs later, which will inevitably increase the cost of the blind area.

To cement mixture had optimal performance, then for cement grades M400 and M500 we maintain the following ratio: for 280 kg of cement we take 840 kg construction sand, 1400 kg crushed stone and 190 l clean water. This solution is quite dry, but this is exactly what is needed for arranging the blind area, since only this consistency will allow you to make the necessary slope. If the solution is more liquid, the mixture will simply spread, providing a horizontal plane.

How to pour formwork

When filling the blind area with concrete, it is necessary to ensure that the concrete mixture evenly fills the entire space in the formwork, eliminating the occurrence of air pockets. Lumps and depressions are also not welcome - water will stagnate in them.

To ensure that the concrete is evenly distributed over the formwork, you can use bayoneting - in practice, this means piercing the mortar with a rod, which allows the mortar to make the blind area uniform in structure.

Types of blind areas

Blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles

A blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles refers to soft blind areas- they get this name due to the absence of a hard top layer. This option is optimal for warm climates, and due to drainage it is also quite suitable for areas with high level groundwater.

The construction of such a design is not complicated: clay, sand, geotextiles, and a perforated pipe are placed in the prepared pit—all of this is covered with crushed stone, through which water from precipitation passes without any problems.

Anyone can equip a soft blind area around the house with their own, which is why it is often used for country houses. This system is quite functional; the only drawback is the contamination of the crushed stone layer with sand, as a result of which unwanted vegetation begins to grow on it.

Blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs

The so-called semi-rigid paving area or paving slabs It is reliable and can be done with your own hands without the use of construction equipment.

This design consists of layers of clay, sand, crushed stone, on which a layer of paving stones is laid - this is the finishing coating.

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