What slope for paving slabs. Features of laying paving slabs on a slope

P covering with paving slabs artificial stone both reliable and attractive. Smooth and rough rectangular elements or mosaic, plain and different colors, it will decorate and enliven the most ordinary buildings.

Paving slabs - a simple and beautiful coating

The popularity of tile coating is facilitated by a simple technique of work. Due to the simplicity of the installation process, laying paving slabs easy to master even for a beginner at a construction site. You need a minimum of tools, they are simple and inexpensive. Moreover, with small volumes, laying paving slabs with your own hands can be done without tools at all. "Regular" tools are replaced by improvised items and, of course, an understanding of the basic principles of work, which will be discussed later.

Content.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Marking the site for paving slabs

Facing is an element of improvement of an existing site. Therefore, special accuracy when marking paving slabs is not required, and the whole binding comes down to building one or two lines on the ground where curb stones are required.

It is better to start laying from an existing building (for example, if a path is being made between two objects), or along it - parallel to the facade line.

If the situation permits, the width of the cover must be "adjusted" to an integer number of tiles. This layout looks better and the tiles will have to be cut less.

To do this, we first estimate the width of the laying of paving slabs by eye and mark with pegs. We measure and divide the resulting value by the size of one tile. The resulting value is rounded up to an integer.

For example: the measured value is 264 cm, the width of the tile is 19.5 cm. Divide - 264 cm: 19.5 cm we get 13.53. That is, for a given width of whole tiles, 13 or 14 can be laid. We choose what is preferable in our case to expand (if possible) or slightly reduce the width of the site, and we make a countdown.

Let's say the situation allows you to lay 14 tiles, then 14x19.5 = 273 cm. This will be the width of the cladding. Set aside already 273 cm and mark with a peg.

We indicate the laying direction with the next peg, driving it in so that the cord stretched between it and the first peg is perpendicular to the line connecting the first pegs. And if the site is adjacent to the building, then it is parallel to its facade (see Fig. 1).

As for the height of the cladding, it usually corresponds to entrance openings buildings adjacent to the site and (or) porches. Extremely rarely, the height can be tied to some special mark (benchmark) depending on the features of the building.

Advice. When laying tiles, try to compact the base as much as possible. It is best to use a vibrotamper for this. Ideally, stepping on the leveling layer, the foot should not leave a mark. With such a compaction, it is almost not necessary to upset the tile; we lay it out only by tapping it with a hammer, which is especially convenient when laying out complex patterns.

paving slabs

Detailed tiling process

Paving slab maintenance and repair

Whatever special care behind paving slabs is not required, only like any stone material, the tile is quite fragile, a strong blow can chip or break it. This must be remembered when cleaning sites and paths from snow and ice, dried mud, do not use various kinds of crowbars and cleavers.

When a project for the construction of a house is created and landscape design, first of all, the terrain is taken into account. It depends on him where the house, extension, gazebo, pool or pond, playground, etc. will be located. When all the planned objects come true, garden paths made of paving slabs will connect them. FROM small bumps, pits and bumps can be easily dealt with by leveling the surface. But what if the site is located on a slope? We will figure out what slopes are, and how to lay paving slabs on them.

1. What are the slopes

2. Ways of laying paving slabs

3. Features of laying on slopes

What are the slopes

When laying paving slabs on a slope, certain features must be taken into account. To understand them, we denote the classification of slopes:

1. Less than 3° - flat surface

2. From 3° to 10° - slight slope

3. From 10° to 20° - medium slope

4. More than 20° - steep slope

Even with a small slope, laying is carried out in the usual way, but a slope of more than 10 ° already requires a special approach.

Ways of laying paving slabs

Consider an example of a device for laying paving slabs on a flat surface using paving stones as an example. Paving stone is a type of paving slab, it has the shape of a brick. Paving stones are distinguished by such characteristics as increased strength, wear resistance, as well as a wide selection of colors. Why paving stones? She has the most simple form, which means it will simplify further process paving the area and ensure waste minimization.

Any project begins with planning: it is necessary to determine the purpose of the track and the type of soil. The thickness of the tile depends on this, as well as the features of the base.

The surface where the tiles will be laid is carried out. The borders are marked with pegs, between which a cord is pulled.

After that, trenches are made for the installation of a curb stone. Do not forget that the curbs are not the boundaries of the paving, they serve as stops so that the tiles do not move apart. On a flat surface, the trenches are made so deep that after laying the curbs are flush with the paving slabs. On the slope, it is recommended to make curbs below the level of paving slabs to improve water flow. They are installed on a concrete solution.

Then, in place of future tracks, the soil is removed. The depth of excavation depends on the type of soil. For example, on clay soils must be installed drainage system from crushed stone of medium fractions with a thickness of 15-20 cm, so the soil is taken out to a depth of 40-45 cm.

Next, the layers of the base are laid, each of which must be well tamped and leveled. The upper (underlying) layer is made of sand, concrete or cement-sand mixture. Paving stones are laid on it. Each row requires special attention, because each subsequent one depends on it. Paving elements are tapped with a rubber mallet.

At the final stage, the seams between the tiles fall asleep cement-sand mixture, watered with water to shrink and fall asleep again. Thus, an even, beautiful coating is obtained, which is ready for use in 1-2 days.

Features of laying on slopes

Laying tiles can be done in areas with a slight and medium slope. On steep slopes, paving slabs can serve as an element of decor or cladding.

slight slope

A slight steepness is very typical for any area, especially for the blind area of ​​​​a residential building, it is often formed by natural relief. On a slope of less than 10°, you can create garden paths, playgrounds, car parks, - any paving. Laying tiles in this case is no different from the usual. You need to act according to the rules described above.

Medium slope

While on small slopes it is possible to create paving for any purpose, on slopes from 10° to 20° tiles can only be an element garden paths. Carrying out work on a site with an average slope has some features in carrying out both preparatory work, as well as the base device. It should be remembered that the greater the slope, the greater the likelihood of slipping laying. This is what needs to be prevented.

To solve this problem, non-woven roll material geotextile (or geogrid). The properties of geotextiles include strength, frost resistance, environmental friendliness. The material does not rot, prevents the germination of weeds, and, most importantly for a site with a slope, prevents the base layers from shifting. Geotextile is laid on the bottom and walls of the excavation, on which crushed stone is laid on top, compacted, then a layer of canvas is laid again. Read more about geotextiles in this article. Laying of paving slabs on a site with a slope is carried out from a lower point (against the movement of water). At the very bottom, a concrete drain is installed in such a way as to allow the first rows of tiles to rest against it. Further laying is carried out in the usual way. The placement of tile elements is done on their own. On a slope, the underlying base layer is best made of concrete to increase the strength of the coating.

This information will be quite enough to understand how to lay paving slabs on a slope.

We will figure out what slopes are, and how to lay paving slabs on them.

/upload/%D1%82%D0%BF%20%D0%BD%D0%B0%20%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B5_1.jpg

When arranging their own site, people often tend to do everything with their own hands. Someone decorates it ornamental plants, someone makes reservoirs and bridges. An important element on the site are the paths and the playground in front of the house. Many of the owners country houses and dachas lay out these coatings from paving slabs. This is due to the ease of installation, and a wide variety of material design.

Types of paving slabs:

• Vibrocast tiles are made with the addition of plasticizing additives, which increases its strength.
• The vibropressed tile does not contain such additives in its composition, which affects its porosity, and, consequently, its strength.

When choosing, you should first of all take into account the climatic conditions of the region. The porous structure of vibropressed paving slabs will quickly become unusable under the influence of severe frosts.

Technology of laying paving slabs

The first thing you need to know is the fact that paving slabs should be laid on a flat surface. The slope may be present, but it is important to ensure that it does not change. To do this, you can pull the cord between the pegs and focus on it. If the slope has too much slope, then it is better to refuse laying the tiles, instead, you can equip the stairs.

The beginning of work will be the marking of the site where the paving slabs will be laid. From it you need to remove all the sod and layer fertile soil. Now a layer of rubble is laid, which is designed to even out all the unevenness of the site. When the site is leveled, you can start laying sand or a mixture of cement and sand. Now you can start directly laying paving slabs.

It is important to lay it with a minimum gap of 1 millimeter. This gap will prevent excessive stress at the joints during temperature changes, which can lead to the destruction of the tile. It also serves as a drain for rainwater. It should freely penetrate through gravel and sand into the ground.

In the event that under the soil is clay soil or you are laying tiles on an asphalt pavement, it is important to make a water outlet in the form of a gutter or drainage pipes.

Nuances

Pay attention to the relief of the tiles. If frosts are not uncommon in your area, then it is not advisable to choose absolutely smooth paving slabs. Ice on it can cause injury. It will be much more convenient and safer to walk on tiles that have some relief or texture. If, nevertheless, you want to lay exactly smooth tiles, then on winter period you can cover it with a special plastic fleecy coating that will prevent slipping. There is another option - under the paving slabs, you can equip the "warm floor" system. It will heat the tile, which will prevent water from freezing on it.

Caring for the finished coating is quite easy. Firstly, it is necessary to sweep it, and secondly, periodically wash it with a hose or a simple mop. Excessive mechanical impact on the tile is not desirable. From impacts when ice is chipped or unloading heavy materials, the tile is unlikely to collapse immediately, but small defects will form, which over time will affect the wear resistance of the material.

ElenaRudenkaya (Expert Builderclub)

Good afternoon.

Let's go in order.

1. Be sure to remove the vegetation layer, usually it is 30-50 cm. This is just enough to make the entire "pie" of the blind area.

It will be useful for you to read our article about the blind area device in a private house.

In order for the blind area to be strong and durable, you need to properly compact the soil. This can be done using a special rammer. The soil must be compacted around the house to a distance that corresponds to 1.5 of the length of the blind area itself.

Can install a border, as it looks more advantageous and also acts as a limiter when constructing a blind area. You will have to compact gravel and sand many times, which cannot be done well without a strong curb.

For a blind area from paving slabs, the layers will be as follows:

• Compacted soil.
• Crushed stone compacted every 10 cm (the layer is selected depending on the desired level). The main material of such a layer can be crushed stone, gravel or ordinary yellow building sand of a large fraction. The thickness of the drainage layer depends on the finishing layer of the blind area. If paving slabs are used, then the thickness of one element is subtracted from the depth of the removed soil layer. Everything else is filled building sand. As a rule, the thickness of this layer is about 25-35 cm.
• Concrete layer approximately 5 cm M100-150.
• Reinforcing mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 4-6 mm. By itself, concrete is not elastic, therefore, with frequent freezing and thawing, it cracks. Armature takes over everything internal forces keeping concrete intact for many years. Reinforcement bars are laid approximately every 5-10 cm. It is best to make a lattice with square cells from the bars, the side of which will be 100 mm.
• Concrete 5 cm.
• Ruberoid in 2 layers with a slight overlap on the wall of the house (2-3 cm).
• Gartsovka, that is, a mixture of cement and sand, cement grade M-150 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 with sand.
• Tile.

2. It is difficult to advise on this point. If you will perform a concrete base under the blind area, then the tile will fit the same for each zone. If it’s just with sand or garco without concrete, then the tile will sag from the loads and it will need to be shifted.

3. A slope is required to drain water. The slope can be made even at the stage of the drainage layer, which is important when using paving slabs. You can also make a slope during the formation of the final layer of concrete. The slope value should have a minimum value of 1.5 percent, that is, approximately 8 mm for every half meter of blind area length. This slope guarantees normal water drainage. For a blind area from paving slabs, the difference is 5-10 cm per 1 m.

And also, so that the concrete does not constantly get wet, the roofing material is laid in 2 layers on top of concrete screed, and then already carving. Roofing material will help to keep concrete for longer.

As for the gutters. Along the perimeter of the blind area, it is desirable to make a concrete tray for draining water; you can also use a sawn pipe laid on a concrete base or purchased gutters for these purposes. Water will be supplied to them from the blind area and from the drainage system and flow away to the side.

4. No, just a tile laid on the sand will not serve as a blind area, but with a reinforced and waterproofed concrete base it will.

5. An expansion joint is needed so that the blind area tape, changing linear dimensions with temperature changes, can move without accumulating internal stresses. MThere should always be a small gap of 1-2 cm between the blind area and the wall.It is better to fill it with ordinary sand or polystyrene. Often, as such a gap, a gasket is made of several layers of roofing material. That overlap, which I wrote about at the beginning, will be enough.If there is no such seam, then the blind area, which is made of paving slabs, during frost will create an additional lateral load on the foundation or walls ground floor. This can lead to the destruction of their waterproofing.

Important - the blind area is done only at the end of all work on the facade of the building. Such a strict requirement is primarily due to the fact that the blind area must protrude beyond the edge of the facade for a certain distance (from 1 to 1.5 m), and it is possible to establish the boundary of this edge only after the facade has been completely finished.The laid surface of paving slabs is thoroughly cleaned of the remnants of the dry mix and watered along expansion joints a small amount of water.

Ask.

reply

Paving slabs are valued for their practicality, high strength, durability, resistance to moisture and temperature changes. It does not emit substances harmful to humans when heated, like asphalt pavement. The variety of shapes, sizes, colors and textures of road building material is amazing. Combining different types products, you can create beautiful coverage. Laying paving slabs requires strict compliance with all building regulations. If the paving technology is violated, the coating is quickly destroyed.

It can be vibrocast and vibropressed. Products differ in manufacturing technology. Vibrocast elements are created by tamping the solution on a vibrating table. In the manufacture of a vibrocompressed product, the mixture is subjected to pressure with vibration. Vibropressed products have higher strength. Tiles are made from concrete mix and clay. Screenings of granite rocks and plasticizers are added to the composition. The most durable is granite tiles. It is made from natural granite.

Products can be diamond-shaped, hexagonal, rectangular, square and wedge-shaped. The curly material "Wave" (with wavy edges), "Clover" (with semicircular protrusions) and "Bone" (resembles a coil) is popular. There are many ways to lay diamond tiles (hexagons, snowflakes, stars). From diamonds, you can create a coating with a 3D effect.

To create garden paths near cottages and country houses, vibrocast tiles 40 mm thick are purchased. Vibropressed products can be laid on roads with a heavy load (squares, sidewalks). They must be at least 60 mm thick. If laying is planned on the street on the roadway, it is better to use granite tiles. Intensive traffic of passenger vehicles will withstand material with a thickness of 70-80 mm. If trucks are to be driven on the road, the pavement should be 100 mm thick.

Before buying, you need to evaluate the quality of the tiles. On its surface there should be no holes, notches and crevices. When tapping the tiles against each other, it should appear ringing sound. If the sound is deaf, the purchase of goods must be abandoned. You should not buy brightly colored products, as well as those in which there are voids. To assess the density of the material, you need to ask him to break it. It is necessary to find out how even the surface of the product is. If the paving slabs lay down on the table with all corners, lay down evenly and do not sway, it is of high quality.

Styling options

Before purchasing paving slabs, you need to choose a laying option. On straight and flat sections, it is easiest to perform a linear scheme. This paving slab laying technology is the simplest. It allows you to save material.

The linear layout can be horizontal, vertical, straight or offset. When the rows are shifted, the coating pattern resembles brickwork. If you use products of different shades, you can get the effect of a "caterpillar track". Rows of tiles are sometimes placed at an angle to the track line. This arrangement is called diagonal.

If a diagonal-angular layout is used, a herringbone or braided pattern is formed. To lay the herringbone, the rows of tiles are placed at an angle of 45 ° to the track line. "Pletenka" is paved, alternating horizontal and vertical laying. The diagonal-angular pattern is highly durable. It visually reduces the space.

Tiles can be laid in modules of 2-3 elements. Combining 2 colors, create a checkerboard pattern. If you use elements different size and shade, you get an original chaotic pattern. On the adjoining territory the spiral layout looks nice. To create decorative circles, you need to purchase material with wedge-shaped elements. Artistic layout is performed from products different forms and colours. Choosing methods for laying tiles, it is necessary to take into account the design of architectural structures and household territory.

Necessary materials and tools

To perform laying work, you need to purchase tools:

1. bayonet and shovel for excavation.
2. Rake to level the surface of loose materials.
3. Stakes and rope for marking the site.
4. Rubber mallet for leveling material (wooden mallet with rubber head).
5. Building level (1.5-2 m).
6. Roulette.
7. A brush or broom.
8. stamping.
9. Rubber spatula.
10. A flat bar for leveling the surface of the layers.
11. Bulgarian (disk with diamond coating).
12. Scrap to carry out the dismantling of paving slabs.

It is necessary to prepare curbs, sand, crushed stone (fractions 10-20, 20-50) or gravel, plaster mixture or cement (M400, M500). To strengthen the foundation of the coating, you will need a reinforcing grid with cells of 10x10 or 8x8 cm. Create a coating on large area a stacking machine will help.

Marking future tracks

To correctly lay out the tiles yourself, you first need to make a markup. You need to start work near the building, fence or gate. Near the building you need to score 2 pegs. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the track. It is better to adjust the width of the coating to the size of the product so that you do not have to cut the material. Since the structure will be supported by curbs, space must be left for them (10 cm on each side). The other 2 pegs are hammered near another building. 2 ropes are pulled between the pegs.

Laying street tiles over a large area is carried out after it is divided into strips 1-1.5 m wide. If the road has bends, it is divided into small areas. Each section is marked separately.

Earthworks and protective layer

Volume earthworks depends on the type of soil. If the soil is dense and clayey, it is enough to remove a layer 15-20 cm thick to remove the roots of the plants. When the soil is loose, it is necessary to remove a layer 30-35 cm thick. If it is planned to lay paving slabs in winter, the paving trench must be prepared before the cold weather.

Sand is poured onto the surface of the trench. The sand is compacted along with the soil. So that the seeds of plants remaining in the soil do not germinate and do not destroy the coating, a non-woven fabric is laid at the bottom of the trench. The strips of material should overlap each other by 15-20 cm.

Drainage device

Proper styling tiles are not a guarantee of the durability of the coating. Ground and rain water gradually wash away sand and soil particles, destroying the base of the road. To prevent moisture from spoiling the coating, it is necessary to make a drainage layer.

At the bottom of the trench you need to pour gravel. The layer thickness should be 15-18 cm. Crushed stone should be well compacted and leveled. A thin layer of sand is poured on top and also leveled, on which a non-woven fabric is laid. Care must be taken to ensure that water flows to the edges of the path. To do this, make transverse and longitudinal slopes. A pillow for paving slabs is performed at the last stage of the preparatory work.

Placement of fencing curbs

The laying of the curb is carried out immediately after the completion of the work on the drainage device. It is better to use a ready-made concrete curb. Curb blocks are installed near the vertical cut of the soil along the edges of the road. It is desirable that the upper edge of the border is 1-2 cm above the soil level. Otherwise, the paths will be constantly dirty.

Curb blocks are fixed concrete mortar. After laying the curb, you need to check how smooth it is. To do this, use the building level. If some blocks are installed incorrectly, their position is corrected with a wooden mallet.

Applicable types of bases

Before laying out the site with tiles, you need to make a base. The underlayment helps level the surface of the site. It gives the coating stability and increases its strength. A reliable foundation does not allow the sidewalk to collapse under the weight of people and cars. It protects the coating from destruction in the autumn-winter period, when ice forms in its gaps.

The technology of laying paving slabs depends on the method of operation of the coating. If the load on its surface is small (footpath), it is enough to make an underlying layer consisting of sand and cement. If paving is carried out under a car, a concrete base is required.

Concrete

Before concreting the base, reinforcement work is performed. Reinforcing mesh placed on metal or stone supports. The reinforcement should be 3-5 cm above the trench surface. Gartsovka for paving slabs is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. It is better to use river or quarry washed sand. It should not contain particles of clay or lime. The mortar is evenly and thoroughly distributed over the trench area to achieve a level surface.

It is better to immediately fill the entire track with concrete. If part of the work is postponed for the next day, the area filled with concrete must be covered with polyethylene. The concrete base for paving slabs should have a thickness of 10-12 cm. In order for the cement pad to be strong, it is moistened for 3-5 days. After moistening, the concrete is covered with polyethylene. You can lay the coating in 7-12 days.

From sand and cement

The trench is backfilled with a mixture of sand and cement. It is prepared in a ratio of 3:1. The thickness of the sand-cement base should be 12-15 cm. The underlying layer should be well compacted and leveled. If the trench is too deep, it can be reduced with sand. Sand is poured under the base and carefully rammed.

The paving slab technology requires that the cement-sand mixture be dry. Therefore, it is better to make the foundation immediately before paving in dry weather. The cement-sand layer must be laid on geotextiles. If this is not done, the sand will quickly wash out, and the tiles will sag.

Tile treatment before laying

Before installation, the tiles must be treated with a hydrophobic solution. The tool will increase the frost resistance and moisture resistance of the material, as well as increase its service life. Water repellents improve decorative qualities and protect against fungal microorganisms. Salt stains do not appear on the surface treated with a hydrophobic solution. The material is immersed in a hydrophobic composition, then dried. The procedure is repeated.

During processing, you need to carefully inspect all the elements. Products with defects must be put aside. When you need to cut paving slabs to make corners, defective elements come in handy.

Laying work must be carried out under suitable weather conditions. The weather should be dry and calm. It is impossible to lay the coating on a sand-cement base at sub-zero temperatures. When frozen, the soil expands, and when thawed, it sags. If you lay the coating on frozen ground, after it thaws, it will collapse. The rules for laying paving slabs allow you to work on concrete base during frost, but this is undesirable.

Mounting

Paving slabs on a concrete base are fixed cement mortar. The seams are completely filled with the mixture. In this case, the thickness of the seams should not exceed 3 mm. When laying the elements, you need to be on the floor. You can't step on the base. After laying each row, you need to check the quality of the work performed. building level. Elements that are not laid correctly are leveled with a rubber mallet.

It is necessary to lay on a cement-sand base, driving in each element with a wooden mallet. The material must be firmly fixed in the base. If the product "fails", a layer of sand must be poured under it. The gaps between the tiles are filled with a mixture or sand. After completing the work, the coating is moistened from a hose with a sprayer. If the mixture “sagged” in the gaps, you need to pour a little more mixture into them. You can use the coating after 2-3 days.

Sealing paving slabs is carried out using sand, cement or concrete mix. If sand is used, it must first be sieved. cement mixture prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. When preparing a concrete mixture, cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Sand and mixtures must be dry. Grouting is carried out using rubber spatula. The level of the mixture in the gaps should be from 1/2 to 3/4 of the height of the tile. Excess mixture is swept from the coating with a broom.

After that, they begin to fill the seams. When the mixture hardens (after 1-3 days), the mixture is poured into the gaps and moistened again. After the composition has dried, the procedure is repeated a third time. You may have to add the mixture to the seams a few more times. You can finish the work when the mixture in the gaps is on the same level with the surface of the tile.