Installation and laying of storm sewers on the territory of a private house. Drainage and storm sewer system on the site in one trench: the principle of operation and the nuances of the arrangement Laying the storm sewer around the house

Any individual building is exposed to atmospheric precipitation.

Among other things, if soils with an admixture of clay prevail on your garden plot, then after each rain the soil becomes soggy, and the dirt spreads throughout the territory.

And puddles that do not dry out for a long time will not add attractiveness to your land plot.
How to overcome the problem of rainwater drainage?

Do it yourself

The issue can be quickly and efficiently resolved by arranging a storm sewer in a country mansion.

The sewerage system in a private house (about a septic tank - it is written) can be built by a home master with his own hands.

This job is not very difficult.

The only condition is that you need to treat it competently.

Before starting to implement your plans, study the Internet or books on this topic.

And so that you do not search for the information you are interested in for a long time in the vastness of the worldwide network, this article will, as much as possible, expand all the necessary information on the topic:

  • "How to make a storm drain in a private house".

For what purposes is it needed

Under the influence of atmospheric precipitation, the foundation of the house, slowly but surely, over time, collapses.

Water will accumulate in the basement of the house.

In addition, the root system of plants planted on the site will soon undergo a rotting process - this will happen if storm runoff is not organized in time (read the article on how to make the best septic tank for a summer residence).

A complex of special devices and channels, the task of which is to collect, filter and remove atmospheric precipitation in:

  • special reservoirs,
  • capacity,
  • septic tanks (),
  • filtration fields,
    - all this is created in order to eliminate excess moisture.

Scheme - what it consists of

The system components are as follows.

Installation of gutters on the roof of the building- these are fixed, along with bevels, gutters.

They collect precipitation from the roof surface. They flow down through conical funnels and downpipes.

A certain number of receivers precipitation on the earth's surface:

  • prefabricated funnels,
  • linear drainage systems,
  • sand traps, etc.

It is necessary to arrange the devices so that they can take in moisture as much as possible.

As a rule, point receivers are installed directly under the downpipes, and for some, they find a place on asphalt paths or in places where paving slabs are laid.

Line-type water intakes are mounted along the paths. And in order for the water to drain well, the coating must be laid at a slope.

Rainwater receivers are made of polymer concrete or plastic, of a special composition.

Collector well

This device is necessary for collecting and further filtering liquid into the ground. The reservoir should be as large as possible.

Inspection hatches

Without them, it is impossible to carry out a preventive examination and clean the channels in case of contamination.

Basically, they are equipped at the junctions of the channels and at the points of their intersection. It is in these fragments that the possibility of clogging the channels is maximum.

Storm sewer options

Underground

This is when all the components of the device are located below ground level.

If this issue is considered from an aesthetic point of view, then there are many positive aspects.

But, on the other hand, in order to carry out an underground storm drain, you will have to do a large amount of land work and spend a significant amount of money.

This prescription is mandatory..

If desired, you can build a storm sewer for the needs of a private house of any configuration and complexity.

How to calculate the correct channel depth

If the underground pipeline has a cross-section of no more than 0.5 m, then it must be buried in the ground at a level of 30 - 35 cm.

If the diameters of the channels exceed this indicator, then the storm sewer must be laid at a depth of at least 70 cm.

If your land plot already has a drainage system, then the storm drain should be placed above it.

In order for the water to move freely through the pipeline, you need to select the correct slope.

Step-by-step instruction

Before embarking on your storm drainage plans, make sure your mansion is equipped with water collection and drainage systems.

Digging a moat, depth and width, it should be taking into account the slope.

If you deem it necessary to insulate the structure, then the dimensions of the pit must meet these additional requirements.

Thoroughly tamp the bottom of the trench. After that, we fill it with a layer of sand, at least 20 cm thick.

In a specially designated place, we dig a foundation pit, in it we will place a tank for collecting wastewater.

Most likely, it will be a ready-made plastic container (septic tank).

An alternative method is to make the tank out of concrete.

We lay gutters on the sand preparation or pipes.

It depends on what type of storm sewer you will be installing.

Next step- we connect all the individual components into one device.

We connect the pipes by means of fittings.

We seal all joints without fail.

Where the trays are connected to the collector, we install sand catchers.

In areas that are long (more than 9-10 meters), and in places where pipes are broken, one cannot do without installing inspection wells.

We check the functionality of the structure for leaks by pouring liquid into the water inlet. If problems are found, they need to be resolved.

The final stage. We fill the pipes that are underground with soil, and cover the channels that are above the ground level with decorative protective gratings.

Installation work in any private building on the arrangement of storm sewers should be carried out in the sequence described above.

Do not forget to drain all roof slopes. This is the only way you can protect your land plot and adjoining territory from the influence of excessive moisture.

Remember! Rainwater and drainage should never be combined into one system. These schemes should be complementary, not mutually exclusive.

Because during heavy rains, the joint device may not withstand the onslaught of the water element.

The owners of country houses can safely connect the storm drain to their own sewerage system. Because there are no harmful ingredients in rainwater, and it does not require purification measures.

If you equip your house and the surrounding area with a surface water drainage device, this will significantly extend the life of the structures.

Thus, you will rid yourself and your household from puddles that do not dry out.

An uncomplicated device can be made by hand. There is nothing complicated about it.

The work of the master is afraid. One has only to start. And if difficulties arise, all the answers to the questions can be found in this article.

What pipes to use and how deep to bury them in the ground, see the video below.

Arrangement of a country cottage requires solving many engineering and construction issues. In addition to creating convenient and comfortable conditions for living inside the house, you will also have to equip a personal plot. One of the important structures on the suburban area is the storm sewer in the country.

Protecting ourselves from atmospheric precipitation

In our country, there are practically no areas where precipitation is absent. In central Russia, the volume of rain and water from melting snow can be measured in cubic meters throughout the year. In addition, not a single summer cottage is safe from heavy rain, which in a limited time can oversaturate the soil on your site with moisture and make it a natural swamp.

After the pouring rain covers your summer cottage, the dropped water will roll down from roofs and from areas with a hard coating that does not absorb water into the ground, over-saturating it with moisture. This moisture can not only create problems for your crops, but it can also cause the foundation of your home to erode. If there is a cellar, basement or basement in your summer cottages, water can penetrate these rooms and partially flood them. The same situation with an excessive amount of moisture on the site can also develop during intensive spring melting of the snow cover.

To protect yourself from the adverse effects of moisture, a storm sewer is arranged on personal plots, which removes excess moisture outside your summer cottage, where it cannot damage anything.

The main characteristics of storm sewers

The storm sewer system is a rather specific structure. Unlike conventional water supply systems, rain and melt water contains a large amount of both large debris and small suspended particles. This composition of the effluent implies primary treatment and the creation of a channel for the uninterrupted movement of littered water.

The composition of the storm sewer system in the country

The composition of the storm sewer system is not limited exclusively to gutters that collect rain moisture from the floors of structures. Rain pipes are only one of the components of the stormwater.

In the storm country sewage system, the following main components can be distinguished:

  • Elements that drain rainwater and moisture from melting from various sections of floors or terrain.
  • Elements that collect the diverted melt water away from the beds or houses.
  • Elements that allow the accumulation or reuse of accumulated moisture.

It is also worth noting that a storm drainage system can be created using two constructive methods: linear and point, or a combination of them.

Point storm sewer in the country

With this method of collecting rain or melt water, runoff is collected from hard, non-absorbent surfaces, such as roofs or paved areas. Further, the drains are directed to the receiving funnels. After collection, the wastewater is transported to the drainage system.

Linear storm sewer in the country

When using a linear drainage system, all drains from non-absorbent surfaces are drained into troughs located along such areas. After collection, rain and melt runoff is directed to the drainage system. If there is a border with a ravine or a reservoir on your site, it is advisable to direct the wastewater towards the natural flow. As an option, rain and melt runoff can enter the purifier, where it will undergo primary purification.

Recycling rain and melt water seems to be a very profitable measure. By using it, you can achieve substantial savings on water bills for irrigation or cleaning. Rainwater and melt runoffs carry relatively few pollutants, and their treatment in a standard septic tank should not present any particular problem.

We independently mount the storm sewer in the country

Despite the fact that storm sewage is a rather complex engineering system, you can easily carry out its installation yourself. The situation is facilitated by the fact that there are no pressure pumps in the storm sewer system, and the water in it moves by gravity. Therefore, the installation of stormwater in the country or in a country house is only a more technically advanced children's needle with spring streams. In order to correctly design and install the drainage of rain or melt water in the country, you need to have only minimal technological skills.

Storm sewer installation technology

  1. At the initial stage, the storm sewer system is calculated. The minimum necessary elements is a water drainage system from buildings, since rainwater, if it is too abundant, can seriously complicate your life. Further, if necessary, the drainage from paths and areas with a hard surface, for example, from an asphalt parking lot, is calculated.
  2. Having determined the areas from which water should be diverted, it should be done so that rain moisture does not linger on such surfaces. Everything is clear with the roof - water is collected from it by a standard drainage system. But in order for your paths or parking in the country to not be covered with water after each rain, during their construction it is necessary to provide for a slope along which the water, under the influence of gravitational forces, will slide into the water intake funnels or gutters. Similar devices, funnels or gutters, are installed under the ends of the drainpipes that collect moisture from the roof.
  3. After the calculation and construction of all funnels or gutters, the collected water should be discharged away from the site, or into the wastewater treatment system.
  4. Drainage of water from water intake ravens can be carried out in a closed or open way. When using the open method, water enters the gutters, which are closed in the upper part with gratings. When using a closed system, water enters the collection and drainage point through a system of underground pipes.
  5. Both when laying gutters and when placing pipes - building drainage structures should be placed with a slope towards the catchment. The angle of inclination of the drainage pipes and gutters is calculated in the same way as when laying an external sewer system.
  6. When laying pipes and gutters after digging in the selected place of trenches, a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters is laid on their bottom.
  7. The pipes of the drainage system in the ground do not need to be buried to a significant extent. The storm sewage system works exclusively in the warm season and the problem of freezing does not threaten it.
  8. In order for the system not to clog up in it, it is necessary to provide for the installation of filter grids for collecting large debris and sand traps for collecting suspended small particles such as sand. At the locations of filters and sand traps with underground closed pipe laying, it is necessary to provide for the presence of inspection wells and hatches for routine maintenance and unscheduled wastewater treatment.

Features of the installation of storm sewers

For laying stormwater gutters in an open way, you can use ready-made solutions - concrete and plastic gutters for storm sewers.

Also, storm sewers can be combined with a drainage system. In soils with a large amount of moisture, a constant drainage of excess water is required. For this, pipes with holes are laid in the ground, which collect moisture and soil and take it away from the site. The same pipes can also be used to move rain or melt water outside the area. However, as a rule, drainage pipes are laid at a depth deeper than a storm sewer system.

Calculate the slope of the drainage pipes carefully. Use a building level or a special theodolite.

Please note that water is a rather corrosive medium, therefore, carry out the sewer stormwater system exclusively from materials that do not corrode, such as plastic or reinforced concrete. Do not use pipelines with corrugated surfaces, as they are extremely susceptible to clogging.

Water can find a way out everywhere, so when connecting storm sewer pipes, use sealed technologies similar to conventional outdoor sewers.

In order for the water in the storm drain not to freeze in winter - at the beginning of frost, the system must be completely cleaned and freed from water.

All entrances to drainage basins and storm gutters should be covered with grates. It is easier to shovel leaves from such gratings than to get them out of the bowels of the sewer system later.

There must be an inspection hatch or well at every turn of the drain pipe.

In order to get acquainted in more detail with the technology of construction of storm sewers in the country, check out the video tutorial.

Storm sewage in the country: video









There are many reasons why a house has to be built on an area with high groundwater. But the consequence is always the same - if you do not equip protection against flooding, then every spring water will arrive at the site, erode the soil, foundation and basement of the house.

A properly installed drainage system and storm sewer will help to solve the problem. If you know about the level of groundwater even at the stage of buying a plot, then it is most profitable to plan the arrangement of drainage and storm water drainage along with the construction of the house itself. In such cases, you can save money and make storm water and drainage in the same trench.

By conducting storm and drainage sewers even at the construction stage, you can get rid of many problems in the future

What are drainage and storm sewers for?

The main task of the "storm drain" (ie storm system) is to collect rainwater or thawed water from the roof with the help of interconnected gutters and pipes. The stormwater drain consists of two parts - external (gutters under the roof) and underground (receivers and pipes that drain water from the house) In the part that is in the ground, water gets from the roof and blind area, and then it is removed from the site.

Drainage sewerage is needed in order to collect excess water from the ground, i.e. drain it. The main task of drainage is to prevent an increase in the level of groundwater, to prevent flooding of the site.

Since both systems provide for the removal of water into special storage tanks, the combined scheme of the drainage and stormwater system looks very attractive in terms of functionality and economy. The collected water can be used for technical purposes such as irrigation.

It is important!“In the same trench” does not mean that the same pipes are used for stormwater and drainage. Such a scheme is strictly prohibited for the reason that during seasonal increases in the amount of atmospheric precipitation, the stormwater is systematically overflowing. If the same pipe works as a drainage pipe, then at best the drainage will temporarily stop functioning.

Drainage and storm sewers: varieties of these systems and their features

The systems have completely different structures, of the similar elements only pipes and wells. Moreover, they differ not only in structure, but also in the method of installation.

Drainage sewerage (closed type)

It is located only underground, accordingly, it belongs to the closed type of sewer systems. The only features that are partially above the surface are wells.

There are several factors that determine whether a site needs a drainage system or not. It is done in such cases:

    if the aquifer is located high enough on the site;

    clay or loamy soil;

    floods often occur in the area where the site is located;

    a buried foundation is being set up;

    the site is located in the lowlands.

If one of these conditions is met, then most likely, without drainage, there will be problems with flooding or high humidity in the basement and foundation.

The drainage system consists of the following elements:

    Drains(drainage pipes for sewerage, made of geotextile and having perforations, through which water enters the drainage).

    Sand traps(do not allow pipes to clog up with frequent ingress of silt and sand).

    System drainage... Conducts water purified from silt and sand directly into drainage wells.

    Several types wells.

After the wells, where the water is purified, it enters the general storage, and then either is used for personal needs, or is discharged into the sewage system.

Materials from which drains are made:

    Plastic... Long lasting, not very expensive, very strong and resistant to low temperatures.

This is what a plastic drainage intermediate well looks like.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the design and installation of water supply and sewerage systems. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

    Asbestos cement... Cheap, but very short-lived - after a few years, build-ups may appear on asbestos-cement pipes.

    Ceramics... Before the advent of plastic, ceramics were the best option.

Standards pipes:

    SN 2-4 marking (depth up to 3 meters);

    SN 6 marking and what goes above for depths up to 5 meters.

Video description

An example of arranging a drainage system is shown in the video:

Stormwater drainage device (open type)

"Stormwater" consists of two parts - upper and lower. The system includes:

    gutters, into which water gets from the roof, and which lead it further;

    funnels and vertical pipes... Water enters the funnels and then, through vertical pipes, it enters the lower part of the "storm drain";

    clamps to strengthen pipes when they are connected;

    tees and swivel elbows, which connect horizontal and vertical pipes to each other, a funnel can also be attached there;

    wells.

The system is assembled as a designer, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the system, carefully fasten the parts and get a ready-made storm sewer.

Most often, the following are used for gutters. materials:

    galvanized iron;

  • plastic (PVC).

What the storm drain will be made of is chosen depending on the structure of the house, its architecture and the material from which the roof is made. Can be completed with mesh and de-icing cable to prevent ice from blocking the water outlet in spring.

Arrangement of an anti-icing system on the roof of a house

For the manufacture of intermediate and main wells, the following materials are used:

    Pvc(expensive but very effective option);

    Brick and stone(durable, but must be properly assembled);

    Reinforced concrete rings(difficult to install);

Their design is exactly the same as that of a closed drain.

Storm and drainage combination

The entire system is installed in one trench. The drainage and storm sewer scheme on the site is quite simple. Through the junction tee, water from the outside and from the inside (sediment and groundwater) will enter the drainage well.

Drainage pipes run throughout the site, collect water and then it is discharged into the wells, where it is pumped out of the site by a pump. In the "storm drain" water is collected and discharged into the collector drain, after which, through the well mentioned above, it enters the main pipe system, which exists independently of the drainage, but in one trench (perforation is not needed for the storm system). Through the system of main pipes, water enters the bypass well, in which, like in the drainage, it is pumped out by a pump.

Usually the main well is located at the lowest point of the site and water has to be pumped out of it with a pump

The connection of the stormwater and drainage systems is very beneficial, only a wide trench is required, all that is needed is to designate a place for a drainage line, in which water from both systems will go along different paths so that they are not overloaded.

Through the junction tee, water from the outside and from the inside (sediment and groundwater) will enter the drainage well.

The principle of operation of drainage and storm sewers

Storm sewage: point drainage. Point elements are necessary for collecting precipitation, be it rain, melted snow, melted hail. Water can be sent through gutters to the drainage system, and then sent to special ditches with gratings, along which water will be removed from the site. It is very important when the building is located on a slope, since when choosing the correct angle, it will not be necessary to build additional gutters, but to drain water directly into the ditches.

With a linear drainage system, water is discharged through gutters, funnels into a special main system, consisting of pipes that are suitable for drainage and storm sewers. Further along this main system, the wastewater enters the collector, and then, depending on the project, the water can go into the storage tank, or maybe beyond the site.

With deep drainage, water from the rising groundwater, gradually, in separate parts, is discharged into the well, and from there it is pumped out by a pump and discharged. Such a system has 3 types:

    Horizontal;

    Vertical;

    Wall mounted. If there is a basement or basement in the house, it is required to divert groundwater from them. Wall drainage is most effective - a moisture receiver is arranged near the walls, and the wall itself is carefully waterproofed.

Care and operating rules

Both systems require regular inspection and cleaning of silt, sand, clay and other debris. Seasonal inspections are required - in late fall when the rainy season ends and late winter to ensure culverts are not compromised. Despite the various filters, sand traps and garbage nets, dirt still gets inside. They are found everywhere: in pipes, gutters and wells. In the absence of maintenance, the system will simply clog up and stop functioning.

Timely cleaning of the pipes of the drainage and storm drainage system in the country will avoid many problems

To clean the pipe, it is enough to turn on the pump at maximum power and drive ordinary water through the pipes from a hose, it will collect all the dirt and bring it to the well. You can pour water into the gutters and it will also collect all the dirt and then go along vertical pipes. The stronger the pressure, the more dirt and debris will go away.

Already in the pump, all the water is pumped out with an even more powerful pump or a sludge pump, when all the water runs out, it will be necessary to clean the walls. Most often, this ends the flushing, but if the system has not been looked after for a long time, it so happens that you have to manually, with the help of a scraper, clean the walls and the bottom of the well. Therefore, regular cleaning is essential to keep both systems running smoothly.

Dual system installation rules

The competent installation of the combined system is necessarily carried out according to a pre-created project, which specifies the nuances related to the connection to the site and the synchronization of the operation of the wells, so that both drainage and stormwater drainage work properly both in normal mode and during overload.

During installation, it is required to take into account the following nuances:

    Arrangement of a drainage system is quite an expensive pleasure. If something goes wrong and after a few years the drainage stops working, then you will have to spend no less money on its restoration than on a new one, especially considering that you will have to "pick out" the landscape design. As a result, the arrangement of the drainage should be done by professionals.

    During the flood period, each of the systems will be overloaded. Since they collect moisture from different sources, then drains must be laid separately for each system. This can be done in the same trench, but at different depths. The well for collecting water can be shared.

    When digging trenches for drains, be sure to take into account that the bottom of the pit will be covered with rubble and sand. This means that if it is necessary to place the drain at a certain depth, the hole must be dug deeper to the thickness of the layers of sand and gravel.

The pit for the well of the drainage system must be deep enough

    Typically, water is collected in a storage tank (pit or reservoir), from where it is used for technical needs or pumped into reservoirs or simply away from the site. If perforated pipes are used for drainage, then the outlet pipes are always solid. When combining them in one trench vertically, the perforated ones are laid from the bottom, and the usual ones from above.

    If the main pipes and drains are aligned horizontally in the trench, then they are laid in parallel, at a short distance from each other (so that if the main pipe is damaged, water from there does not enter the drainage system and overload it).

Video description

About the installation of the stormwater system and drainage in the following video:

Conclusion

The combined drainage and storm sewer system is not only an effective way to get rid of flooding of the site, but also a rather profitable offer, as it will simplify the system and save money when purchasing many additional elements. It turns out that the integrity of the foundation will be preserved and money will be saved on waterproofing and arrangement of both sewers separately.

So that the site does not turn into a swamp after each rain, and the foundation is not washed away by seasonal flows of melt water, it is necessary to ensure the removal of excess moisture. It will cope with this perfectly, equipped with your own hands. It is not difficult to make one on a site or a summer residence, it is only important to correctly calculate the amount of necessary materials, view and select a suitable storm drain design.

There is little doubt that the installation of a storm drain is a necessary process, because melt and rain flows destroy not only the foundation, paths, but also significantly impoverish the soil. By its design, the storm drain represents the following set of elements:

  • Roof gutter system... Looks like gutters fixed along the slopes of the roof, serving to collect the gutter and diverting flows down through vertical pipes.
  • Sediment receivers on the ground... Such a storm drain around the house can have many of its own elements: funnels, storm water inlets, linear drainage systems, sand traps. Structures are mounted in order to maximize the efficiency of receiving precipitation; point placement under the gutters is possible. Linear receivers, as shown in the photo, are installed along paths located with a low slope for the gravity of rainwater.
  • Construction of redistribution and discharge of precipitation.

It is worth talking about the latter separately, precisely because the issue of dumping excess water comes up very often and with all the "fullness". There are three solutions:

  1. Use streams for watering vegetable gardens. To do this, all pipes and trays are brought together into one large tank, and from there, by means of a pump, they are sent to the irrigation system.
  2. Arrange a system for diverting flows, as shown in the video, into a centralized sewage system, gutter or natural body of water, if there is one nearby.
  3. In the absence of water demand for irrigation and a natural reservoir, excess moisture is discharged into the ground. But for this you will have to equip a number of pipes on the site, digging them to a depth below ground level.

Types of storm water for a private house


There are three types of systems:

  1. Underground. Structurally, all parts are below ground level. This is an ideal choice aesthetically, but it will take a lot of labor, as well as investment of funds. It is possible to arrange such a system with a complete alteration of the allotment of land. In this case, you will have to choose a freezing or non-freezing view. The first storm drains do not work during the frost period, but they are easier to lay, the depth of the laying does not exceed 1 meter - the maximum, but should be at least 30 cm minimum. But non-freezing storm drains are laid deeper, by about 1.5-1.7 m. The groundwork is great, piping systems will be required, but the structure will not interfere with garden work.
  2. Do-it-yourself overhead storm sewer is much easier to arrange. These are drainage and drainage gutters / trays, from where streams of water flow into the reservoir or directly into the garden.
  3. Combined stormwater- a structure where part of the system is located on top, for example, trays for collecting and diverting flows into a specific tank, and part - under the ground (from the tank through a pipeline, water is sent for discharge or under the roots of trees). Professionals believe that a combined storm drain is the most optimal option both in terms of costs and in terms of its aesthetic and practical characteristics.

Important! Before choosing a specific type of stormwater, it is necessary to carefully study the terrain: the level of water saturation of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the possibility of laying a pipe system, the terrain, the development plan, etc.

But what must be done is to divert water from the house as far as possible. Let this be the simplest option: arranging trays on the roof and gutters for draining streams onto lawns, as shown in the photo, but the foundation will not be washed away in case of prolonged rains. If there is a large area paved with tiles (a parking space for a car), you will have to equip a storm drain here, as puddles gather in such spaces that are difficult to deal with. Several points of water collection, equipped with point storm water inlets, will remove all worries.

Combine or split?


In a private house or in the country, sometimes you have to make several drainage systems: sewer, drainage, storm. Sometimes all systems run in parallel, without touching each other, so the desire to combine the storm drain with any structure, while saving on materials, is quite large. For example, use an existing well. But you do not need to do this for the following reasons:

  • with a good lingering downpour, water arrives quickly (from 10 m3 / hour), so the well will overflow instantly;
  • when water is discharged into the sewer, such flows will raise the liquid level, which means that it will not work to lower the sewer discharges, all the debris and masses will remain on the surface;
  • after a decrease in the water level, garbage will definitely remain in the sewer, which will have to be cleaned - not the most pleasant pastime;
  • when discharged into drainage wells, storm flows with good pressure will flow into the system, quickly overflow it and begin to pour out under the foundation;
  • silting of drainage pipes cannot be avoided. Moreover, it is impossible to clean the entire structure, it will have to be changed, and this is new financial costs.

As a result: the storm drain in a private house or in the country should be a separate system, have its own well / reservoir or natural reservoir for discharge.

Components and types of storm sewer system


All structural elements must be connected into one system, of which a storm drain can consist:

  1. Well or large tank to collect water from the entire site, including water on the roof of buildings. Most often, a well is equipped with concrete rings, like a water one, but only with a bottom. Alternatively, plastic wells, which are buried to the required depth, anchor and bring trays and troughs there to collect flows.

Advice! If there is little rain in your area, then an ordinary plastic barrel, buried in the lowest place on the site, is ideal as a tank. It is convenient to draw water from it, and the reservoir costs a penny

  1. Luke. It is bought separately, it can be rubber, plastic, metal. Serves to prevent debris from entering the tank. In order for the hatch to sit firmly, the rings of the well must protrude at least 15 cm above the ground.
  2. Point storm water inlets- small containers installed in places of the greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under trays on the roof, under drainpipes or at the lowest point of the ground.
  3. Linear storm water inlets / drainage channels... These are plastic gutters installed in places where precipitation accumulates (along the roof overhang, footpaths). The option is suitable if, during the construction of the blind area around the house, they forgot to lay a pipeline for water drainage.

Important! The receivers are taken out of the blind area, with the second end the trays are connected to the receiver - this is the best way to remove water and not disturb the blind area

  1. A trash box is a structure where sand settles. As a rule, plastic housings are used, installed in a row in the pipeline sections. Trash boxes require cleaning, but this is easier than cleaning the entire system.
  2. Lattices. To ensure the flow of water, the holes in the grates must be large. There are cast iron, steel, aluminum models.
  3. Stormwater pipes it is better to select polyethylene. Smooth walls will not accumulate precipitation, do not allow microorganisms to catch on, have good throughput and are quite durable.

Important! The diameter of the stormwater pipes depends on the power and saturation of precipitation, the branching of the network. The minimum diameter is considered to be 150 mm, the slope level should not be less than 3% (3 cm for each meter of the pipeline)

  1. Revision wells- plastic structures mounted along the system and intended for cleaning the pipeline.

A storm drain in a country house or a suburban allotment may not contain all the elements, but it is possible to arrange a sewage system from them to divert flows of any complexity and configuration.

The order and stages of construction


First you need to think over the project. If there is no desire to turn to the services of professionals, you can perform all constructive and schematic work yourself in one of the programs or even on a piece of paper. This makes it possible for a more accurate understanding and correct location of all elements. After that, you will have to purchase materials, and then start work.

How to make a do-it-yourself stormwater correctly:

  1. Install under-roof trays, drainage system.

Important! Installation of stormwater drainage requires raising the soil, so it is best to carry out the process of work simultaneously with the arrangement of drainage and sewer systems, which also then end with the laying of paths, blind areas

  1. Dig trenches for the pipeline, as shown in the video. The depth of the trenches must exceed the size required for pipes by at least 15 cm. Lay a crushed stone pillow at the bottom of the pits, and only then the pipes. Crushed stone will help neutralize the heaving forces, always remaining motionless. This quality helps all devices installed in crushed stone to practically not feel the load.
  2. Install storm water inlets, concrete structures and lay a topcoat.
  3. Connect the pipeline to the reservoir or lead the end into the river, lake for water discharge.

These are the main steps, but as shown in the video, you will need to equip trays along the tracks, linear sewers to output streams.

Complex structures can be dispensed with, even if rain is not uncommon in your area. With a good soil absorbency, it is enough to equip the under-roof trays and bring them out with their end into a vertical pipe. Install a reservoir (barrel) at the bottom of the pipe, where water will accumulate. And then use the liquid for irrigation and other technical needs. With a low soil absorption, add a point-type storm water inlet at the lowest point of the site and dig in a barrel there, gutters for drains from paths, roofs are also taken out into the barrel. And that's it, the storm drain is ready. There are options for arranging structures on the video, and it will not be difficult for even a novice home craftsman to complete the simplest system with your own hands.

Storm sewage for a private house is very necessary, because rain and melt water is drained through it from the house and the site.

If you do not equip this system, then rain or melt water will accumulate in the soil, and this has a detrimental effect on buildings.

In this article, we will consider the topic of arranging a stormwater in a private house.

Due to too wet soil, the structure can settle and tilt.

To avoid this problem, storm water drainage equipment is needed.

This system can be made on your own at the beginning of construction, or you can arrange it near the built house. Next, we will analyze the storm sewer device.

Structure

  • if the pipe diameter is 20 cm, then the slope will be 7 mm,
  • if the pipe diameter is 15 cm, the pipe diameter must be 8 mm,

These parameters are suitable for a closed storm sewer system.

For an open type of storm sewer, there are completely different parameters, for example, the slope will be 3-5 mm per 1 running meter of the pipe.

Where there are pipe connections to storm wells, the slope should be two centimeters per linear meter.

Storm drainage device in a private household

  1. To begin with, prepare trenches of the required width and depth, taking into account the slope;
  2. The bottom of the trench is well tamped and a sand cushion is made, the height of which should be twenty centimeters;
  3. In a pre-designated place, a pit is made in order to later install a container for collecting water there. You can make such a container with your own hands from concrete;
  4. Channels and pipes are placed on the sand cushion, everything is connected and the joints are sealed;
  5. At the points of connection with the collector, devices are installed to retain sand and debris, inspection wells are also made, in places the pipes have bends and in sections of more than ten meters;
  6. All underground canals are covered with earth and covered with grating. When you equip the storm sewer, keep in mind that there should be gutters from each roof slope.

If you used high-quality materials and made storm sewers according to all the rules, then it will serve you for many years.

This system will save private homeowners from slush, puddles and premature destruction.

We hope that this article was useful and informative for you. Good luck in your endeavors and patience!