the main / Types of ceilings / From plastic panels / The procedure for installing a ceiling from PVC panels

No repair will be done well if it is not carefully planned in advance.

This applies to any operation - whether it is a simple painting of a wall or ceiling. The order of execution of all operations is especially important, if the installation of a ceiling made of PVC panels is planned, it is simply necessary to plan all the stages of work in advance. So you can save yourself from all possible mistakes.

It all starts with the selection of the material necessary for finishing. In our case, pvc planks, from which the decorative fabric of the future ceiling will be assembled. They may differ from each other in thickness, width, length and appearance of the front of the panel.

There can be many opinions about the last point, but there are basic rules for decorating and decorating ceiling surfaces that should not be neglected:

• In low or dark rooms, dark ceiling coverings should not be used. They will create a depressing impression.
• White surfaces are ideal for all interiors, but this does not mean that ceilings can only be white color. There are many other options, the main thing is that the chosen shade is combined with the rest of the design of the room.
• In kitchens, there is always greasy steam from cooking food. It will inevitably settle on all available surfaces, including the surface of the ceiling - this is inevitable. If it is shiny, all impurities will become visible very soon. It is better to use matte colors and textures for this place.
• Wall and ceiling parts differ in name and thickness, but any type of such panels can be used to finish the floor. The main thing is to provide them secure fastening and a base that will withstand the increased weight of the finish.

The easiest way to understand how the installation of a suspended ceiling made of pvc panels is carried out is by watching the video below, which shows the process in detail.

If this is not enough and there are some questions left, then the whole process will be considered step by step, with maximum attention to all the details of assembling such a coating.

Training

That floor plane, which will be hidden by the decorative canvas of the new coating, must be carefully prepared and processed in advance. To begin with, remove all the old coating. Contaminants are removed at this stage.

After cleaning the working surface, you can treat it with antibacterial and antiseptic impregnations. They will not allow the appearance of fungus and mold in a closed ceiling space.

markup

Next milestone- drawing all the points and lines necessary for mounting the base. To do this, the easiest way is to use a laser or water level. If there is no laser device on the farm, then it will be successfully replaced by the usual building level paired with a water version of this device.

To apply the first mark, you must select the lowest available corner of the room. It is applied at a distance of 5 to 15 centimeters from the floor plane - depending on how uneven the ceilings are and on how far it is necessary to lower the coating plane to install all lighting fixtures.

The mark made with the help of the water level is transferred to all other corners. All marks are connected by straight lines. This is easiest to do using a special marking cord, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

Base

Frame assembly begins.

The first profile will be installed around the perimeter of the room. It should be located strictly horizontally and adjoin the wall as tightly as possible. Attached to it plastic profile, which will simultaneously serve as a fastener and mask the junction of the wall and ceiling canvas.

When all the details are fixed along the perimeter of the room, you can begin the installation of the transverse components of the frame.

Depending on the complexity of the design, suspensions may be needed. They are mounted on the floor plane at the rate of one suspension for every 60 centimeters of the profile. From the wall, the distance to the first element is about 30 centimeters.

decorative coating

The last step will be the installation of all the strips that make up the ceiling canvas. They are installed extremely simply and questions or ambiguities with this moment never arise. How PVC panels are installed on the ceiling is shown in the video below.

This video shows the main way in which the installation of not only pvc panels for ceilings, but also for walls is carried out. Fundamentally, these two operations will differ only in that in one case the assembly is carried out in a horizontal plane, and in the other, they work with vertically arranged parts.

In general, all operations look like this:

• The first panel is mounted so that the groove remains outside, and the protrusion on the part looks towards the wall. Between the wall and the edges of all mounted parts must be left from 5 to 10 millimeters of clearance. It is needed so that the parts can expand or deform due to temperature changes or shrinkage of the walls of the house.
• The next bar is inserted with a protrusion into the groove of the previous one and is pressed tightly against it. You can use a small board for even pressure when shifting the part.
• Each part is fixed with a self-tapping screw or with the help of construction stapler.
• The assembly proceeds in this way until the entire canvas is installed, with the exception of the last bar. It is cut to fit the remaining free space and inserted into place.
• If plastic parts as decorative plinth were not used, it is necessary to complete the assembly of the structure by installing decorative moldings or fillets around the perimeter of the room, masking the junction of the wall and the ceiling covering.

Assembly ceiling covering completed and now it remains to take out the existing garbage, tidy up the room and enjoy the structure assembled by your own hands.

2. Benefits PVC ceilings 3. Mounting the frame for PVC panels 4. Mounting procedure for plastic panels

One of the most inexpensive ways to finish the base floor is the installation of PVC ceiling panels. This design option is distinguished by its ease of installation and low cost, not only in terms of money, but also in time.

The characteristics of ceilings created using PVC panels determine the properties of the materials that are used in the process of their production. Plates for mounting on the ceiling are made of plastic, usually polyvinyl chloride. Plastic ceiling panels are very similar in shape to a lining, they have a spike on one of the faces along the length, and a gutter on the opposite side. Thanks to this design, the installation of ceiling panels is carried out quickly and the result is a solid continuous docking of surface elements.

By appearance and characteristics of PVC panels for ceilings are:

• white. Their cost is low. These products are made from unpainted polyvinyl chloride and are installed mainly in bathrooms;
• colored - such PVC products are dyed in bulk. At a price they are more expensive than white tiles, but are available to all consumers;
• textured. These plates have an individual surface texture that imitates wood or other natural materials.

If you plan to install panels on the ceiling in residential premises, experts recommend using colored or textured products, since a completely white surface, such as in the photo, looks uninteresting.

Finishing the ceiling with wall panels is undesirable, since they are much stiffer and heavier.

Professionals know how to make panels on the ceiling so that it looks perfect. But since the work of installing plastic panels on the ceiling is not difficult, each owner can do it if desired.

Mounting panels on the ceiling, according to the masters, has the following significant advantages:

• practicality - PVC panel ceilings are more resistant to a number of external influences(including high humidity) than many Decoration Materials, so they are often installed in places where moisture can get on the ceiling, for example, in bathrooms;
• durability - this indicator is associated with the resistance of products to external influences. If the installation of ceiling panels is done with high quality and in accordance with the technology, then the structure will not need repairs for a long time, replacement of elements, its maintenance will consist only in periodic maintenance (washing);
• inexpensive cost. Use of PVC products - a great option for consumers who want to renovate their homes with minimal costs;
• simple installation. Plastic suspended ceilings are easy to install, they can be done on your own, even if you do not have the skills to use tools. For comparison - installation stretch PVC canvases - work for specialists.

Before you install the panels on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to prepare tools and materials for work:

• building level more than one meter long;
• perforator - it can be replaced impact drill if the material from which the ceiling and walls are made allows;
• screwdriver for fixing PVC panels to the ceiling;
• square;
• electric jigsaw or saw with small teeth;
• galvanized profile to create the basis of the structure (sometimes wooden beams are used);
• fasteners - 6 mm dowels with a plastic sleeve and self-tapping screws for assembling the frame;
• metal hangers.

When all of the above is prepared, you can begin fixing the panels to the ceiling. First of all, build a frame.

To do this, mark the ceiling and walls in the room. This work you need to do it with high quality, since it depends on the strictly horizontal arrangement of the frame how good the surface of the future structure will look like.

For this:

• the height of the room is measured in all corners and the smallest of the values ​​\u200b\u200bis chosen. On the wall, which has a lower height, 5 centimeters are laid down from the ceiling covering. At the same time, when planning the installation of built-in lamps, the indentation is made in the size of 10 - 15 centimeters;
• a level is set according to the marked mark and, according to it, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the room. According to it, it will be mounted ceiling structure;
• a starting profile (28 mm ID) is applied to the drawn line and holes are drilled through it using a 6 mm drill;
• plastic dowels are inserted into the prepared recesses to fix the profile around the perimeter, keeping its horizontal position under control;
• hangers are mounted on the ceiling, and the main LED profile is fixed to them with self-tapping screws. You need to know how to fix the panels to the ceiling correctly, first of all, for this you should ensure the distance between the profiles to create the frame, it should be 60-70 centimeters. In large rooms, the longitudinal profiles must be connected by transverse elements using special fasteners- "crabs". Otherwise, the ceiling structure will not have the necessary rigidity and will begin to "walk".

Similarly, the frame is mounted using wooden beams. Sometimes a wooden base is preferable because it is easier to attach plastic panels to it.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling, see the video:

PVC panels are fastened in the following sequence:

• first, the elements are cut to the required size with a jigsaw or saw;
• the panels are applied to the frame, controlling their horizontal level (for more details: “How to make a ceiling from PVC panels: the subtleties of installation”);
• the finishing material is fixed with self-tapping screws in places where it comes into contact with the profile. Around the perimeter, fasteners are hidden under a plastic molding.

Depending on the mass and type of finishing plates, different fasteners are used. If wall panels are fastened to the ceiling, although this is undesirable due to their severity and rigidity, clamps are used, brackets can be used for the frame of wooden beams (read also: “ PVC tiles for ceiling: self-assembly”).

There is a way how to glue the panels on the ceiling, for this they use adhesive composition, which is called "liquid nails". When joining the elements, it is necessary to leave small gaps, allowing the coating to easily withstand temperature changes and not deform.

• 23-12-2013
• 6009 Views

• Preparatory stage of installation
• Mounting the battens on the ceiling
• Installation of plastic panels on the frame

Very often the ceiling and wall surfaces are subjected to harmful effects during the operation of the premises. It could be high humidity heat and her swings. Such conditions contribute to the appearance of fungus and mold, as well as other unpleasant problems.

When choosing a finish for the ceiling, many opt for plastic panels, because when cleaning, they just need to be wiped with a damp cloth.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling allows you to cope with such consequences, extend the life of the coating and minimize repair costs.

In addition, plastic panels solve problems with shedding and yellowness of the ceiling surface, they are not afraid of moisture and transportation.

The process of installing plastic panels on the ceiling surface with your own hands consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Wiring (if necessary).
3. Lathing installation.
4. Fixing ceiling panels.

Before installing plastic panels on the ceiling, it is necessary to clean the work surface from paint, chalk and crumbling layer old plaster. Next, the ceiling is treated with a primer, which must necessarily have an antifungal additive. This will eliminate the likelihood of mold.

The crate for plastic panels can be made of metal or wood - depending on the humidity in the room.

AT preparatory work also includes wiring electrical wires, since after installing a plastic ceiling, such a procedure will be too laborious. When wiring, the wiring must be firmly attached to the main ceiling. In places where lighting fixtures are installed, bends will need to be made.

picking up Spotlights, be sure to take into account the power of the lamp, since exceeding this value can cause deformation and melting of the ceiling panels. The permitted power of lighting devices is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the material.

To install ceiling panels with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• perforator;
• square;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• cord with chalk to mark;
• mounting level;
• hacksaw, knife, scissors;
• ladder.

Materials:

• ceiling panels;
• metal profiles;
• plastic decorative corners;
• self-tapping screws, dowels;
• liquid nails;
• suspensions.

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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

At plastic trim now there are both supporters who admire her beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly fix PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the very fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four ways is not much different. In this case, we will talk about creating the basis for such a coating. But first, let's deal with the preparation for the main process.

What to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the features. Facing for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. In the same time wall decoration able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, on a good basis, you can safely mount both ceiling and Wall panels. But think about whether you need increased strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will touch him with his elbows, and the claws of pets will not get there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the wilds, 2 main areas can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Seam panels, for external similarity, are also commonly called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to veneer the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, upon closer examination connecting seam easy to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can be from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course there are more plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the accessories. If limited only to the ceiling, then you will need to equip the perimeter ceiling plinth. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic plinth with mounting groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then against the background of a flat plinth, this curvature will be too noticeable. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starting profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in reserve. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

Equipping the base

As I said, fastening the panels to the base is the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic rails with movable clamps;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We assemble the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable version of the ceiling cladding. Of course, the arrangement of such a design, in comparison with all other basics, requires time and financial investments.

But take my word for it metal carcass worth the sacrifice. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too complicated, at least I, until I mastered this science myself, thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing here that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite up to you.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling at least 5-7 cm lower. For homeowners with ceilings of 3m and above, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of Khrushchev have something to think about.

Any similar design is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profile. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our PP classification (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need perforated metal hangers and, of course, “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors, this already depends on the type of base. Between themselves, metal profiles and suspensions are fixed with the help of small self-tapping screws for metal. In the people they are called fleas or bugs, as someone is used to.

By the way, we will also mount the plastic lining on 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% is usually spent on pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always better to have a small spare in case of an emergency repair.

From the obligatory tool you will need a screwdriver and a drill or a hammer drill. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal shears.

Well if you have laser level, but this tool is professional and the price is fantastic. Therefore, instead of it, a hydraulic level is often used.

Do not confuse the hydraulic level and the usual building level. The hydro level is a long transparent tube into which water is poured, this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations along the edges. Its price is not high, so it is better to buy, it will not be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with marking. In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is “littered”. The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are necessarily differences in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydraulic level comes in handy;

• Having found the “littered” corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if it is planned to install a heater on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be done more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, you will need to transfer this horizon to the entire room. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• A UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal line, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors with a pitch of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed inside the room, since later we will insert a CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels. Again, you first need to mark the installation sites of the carrier profiles;

Remember, the carrier profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn’t matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the rails.

• As I said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such fastening is not enough, so the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated suspensions to the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are fixed to the ceiling with the same dowels "Quick installation" or anchor bolts . But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, a straight line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions according to this markup.. For plastic, it is enough to install hangers at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or lining;

• Then everything is simple. We insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure at all points of contact with small self-tapping screws. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden crate on the ceiling

Compared to the above option, it is much easier to mount a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Of the advantages, one can point to ease of installation and lower cost of construction. A wooden frame will cost you less than a metal frame by more than 2 times.

But it is extremely undesirable to mount wood in damp rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and fungus, but in this case there is no protection against deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly even dry bars are expensive. And if you take a budget option, then almost all the slats are slightly crooked. Accordingly, in order to bring such a frame to mind, you will have to tinker a lot. The cross section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can split.

In this case wooden blocks the frame is attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors in increments of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also supposed to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply fill the bars of the crate on it and not bother with bringing it to zero. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the lining, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level strictly horizontally, with the help of wedges, first set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the remaining laths of the crate. The distance between the planks of the wooden crate is maintained in the region of half a meter.

Option number 3. Installing a plastic crate

Plastic crate thing is very comfortable and very durable. But the problem is that it will cost no less than the installation of a metal frame. At the same time, on such a basis you can only fix plastic pvc panels. No other facing material it will no longer be possible to hang on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. Kleimers move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

To the ceiling, they are attached according to the same principle as wooden crate. Only compared to wood, plastic is less durable, and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then the fixing screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then if the wooden wedges are deformed, the expensive plastic battens may crack.

The big advantage of this version of the crate is not only that it is easy and quick to mount plastic on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the lathing slats will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be assembled elsewhere.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete slabs overlap. And if it is good to putty the joints between these plates, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any crate on it; plastic panels can simply be glued to such a base on a construction adhesive called "Liquid Nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but, as far as I have come across, this is the one that is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when we are talking about ceiling work. If you simply lubricate the panel with glue and press it to the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not rosy.

You need to act differently:

• After lubricating the panel with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Further, this panel is set aside and aged for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly stick to the ceiling.

“Liquid nails” glue is certainly good, but in order for it to firmly grasp on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard deep penetration primer "Betonkontakt" are enough.

Of course, gluing panels to reinforced concrete floor slabs is fast, simple and inexpensive, and most importantly, it does not make ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will no longer be possible to dismantle such a lining without damaging it. Basically, it's a one-time option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. I already mentioned above that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove as a starting profile.

The fastening of the ceiling plinth with the mounting groove is carried out in the same way as the fixing of the plastic panels themselves. That is:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• A plinth or starting profile can be screwed to a wooden frame either on self-tapping screws or “shoot” with staples of a construction stapler;
• On plastic guides, it is fixed with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling it is simply glued to the "Liquid Nails".

Both in the ceiling plinth with a mounting groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support bar is specially made wider. It is in this extension that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clamp.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice masters often have a problem with how to fix last panel on the ceiling. This issue is easily solved:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we recline 5 - 7 mm and cut off our last panel;
• Next, we start the extreme panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the spike of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of the U-shaped starting profile or plinth with a mounting groove fluctuates around 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the plinth and the trimmed plank will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it on with self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you join it in the corners.

In most instructions, it is recommended to simply take a carpentry miter box and “slaughter” adjacent corners under 45º. But in our houses, not all corners have a clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or vice versa is sharp, then the standard carpentry miter box is generally useless.

I do it quite differently. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling lining. But my advice to you, if you are wiring under the skin, then before installing the plastic, assemble the circuit and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Output

Cladding the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. In the photo and video in this article you will find additional tips and recommendations. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

Plastic ceiling panels are a good alternative drywall constructions. Easy to install, durable in use, they perfectly mask the defects of the ceiling surface and give the room an attractive look. Mounting is not difficult if you carefully study the technology.

Tools and materials for work

In order not to be distracted by searches in the process of work, all necessary tools and materials should be prepared in advance:

It is better to use the water level, so the markup will be done faster and with greater accuracy. The frame of the rails can only be mounted in a dry room, it is better to mount it in the bathroom or in the kitchen aluminum profile. If the length of the ceiling is longer than the length of the panels, an additional H-shaped connecting molding will be required. Its design allows you to securely fasten two adjacent panels and avoid sagging at the joints.

Calculation of the amount of materials

When planning, it is very important to correctly calculate the amount necessary materials. This will help avoid unnecessary costs and reduce the amount of waste after repairs. First you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by multiplying its length by its width. In the same way, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel is determined, and then the ceiling area is divided by the panel area and the resulting value is rounded up.

Since the panels will be trimmed during installation, and the material may not be enough, it is recommended to increase the ceiling area by at least 10% when calculating. If the ceiling surface has a complex configuration, it is better to add 15% for trimming. In addition to the panels, you will also need rails for the frame; to find out the total length of the rails, you need to divide the width of the ceiling by 0.3 and multiply by its length.

When attaching the rails to the ceiling, dowels and self-tapping screws are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The starting profile is fastened every 0.5 m. Knowing the length of all the rails and the profile, it will not be difficult to calculate the number of fasteners. total length The UD of the profile is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling plus 10% for the joints. The ceiling plinth should be the same length. The consumption of the primer mixture is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so when buying, you need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

An important point: when buying plastic panels, you should immediately check their integrity in the package and the absence of defective elements. It often happens that after printing out a purchase at home, people find defective, bent or broken panels, which are very difficult to get a free replacement.

Installation technology of plastic ceilings

The connection of the panels is quite tight, but not tight, and therefore the smallest particles of dust, lime and plaster from the ceiling surface can penetrate through the seams. In addition, mold often appears on the ceiling, especially in the corners, and fungus spores also enter the room and are inhaled by people. To avoid such troubles, you need to properly prepare everything.

It is not necessary to level the ceiling, but it is necessary to remove the exfoliated whitewash or plaster. It is best to walk along the ceiling with a stiff-bristled brush, and then wipe it with a damp cloth from dust. cracks and through holes or cement mortar. Finally, the ceiling is primed twice with a deep penetration antifungal compound.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Markup for the start profile

In order for the ceiling to be even, the panels must be located in the same horizontal plane. To do this, along the perimeter on the walls, accurate markings are made for the starting profile. Depending on the curvature working surface and the thickness of the wiring from the ceiling recede down by 5-10 cm. Mark a point on the wall with a pencil and start marking the level from it. Marks are placed in each corner and in the middle of the walls, and then connected with a beating.

UD profile fixing

To concrete walls the starting profile is fixed with dowel-nails or anchor bolts, having previously drilled holes along the marking line. To wooden surface the frame is fastened with long self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 50 cm. The profile is applied to the markup, leveled horizontally and screwed. At the joints, as well as along the entire length, there should be no gaps between the wall and the profile.

Frame installation

The lathing slats are arranged in parallel rows every 30-40 cm. First, straight lines are drawn, stepping back from one of the walls 30 cm. Metal suspensions are screwed to the ceiling along these lines with a step of 35-40 cm. A crate from a profile or rails is mounted on the hangers, the ends of which are brought into the starting profile along the perimeter, then the design is checked building level. All elements must be strictly in the same plane, any irregularities and deviations from the horizontal will lead to deformation of the ceiling.

Laying electrical wiring

When the frame is securely fixed, proceed with the installation. Carefully consider the location of the cables, the output points of the lamps, ventilation ducts. Each system should be as isolated as possible from the rest, and cables, hoses and wires should be neatly bundled with plastic ties. It is desirable that the wires be corrugated and firmly attached to the ceiling; sagging of the wiring elements is unacceptable. Where the lighting device will be installed, you need to additionally strengthen the crate with guides. In conclusion, they once again check the horizontality and strength of the fastening of the crate, the absence of parts protruding beyond the boundaries of the frame.

Prepare an L-shaped bar and the first panel: measure the distance between the walls and cut the plastic with a hacksaw. The ends of the extreme strips are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Please note that the panels are mounted perpendicular to the guide profile. The L-shaped bar is mounted first; it is fixed with screws to the rails located along the perimeter of the ceiling. Stand on the side where the skin will end, the bar does not need to be screwed yet. Next, the first panel is inserted into the profile with one side, holding it in a horizontal position along its entire length.

If the ceilings are large area, it is better to work with an assistant, since it is quite inconvenient to hold the panel on weight and at the same time fasten it to the crate. The free side edge of the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws to carrier profile or slats. Thin plastic can be attached to wooden rails using a construction stapler. Each subsequent panel is mounted in the same way, carefully inserting the ends into the L-shaped strips.

When using panels of short length, it is recommended to move the transverse seams in a checkerboard pattern. So the ceiling will look more attractive. Trimming of each element is performed sequentially, as soon as the previous one is fixed. This contributes to a reduction in material consumption and a more accurate fit of the joints.

When installing the panels in the places where the electrical wiring exits, holes of the desired diameter are pre-cut in the plastic. This can be done with a sharp utility knife. The last bar is first adjusted to the width of the hole, then inserted into the L-shaped profile, and its edge is smeared with glue and inserted into the ceiling. If instead of a profile it is planned to use a ceiling plinth, the edge of the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws - they will not be visible under the baguette.

When gluing baguettes, you should very carefully apply them to the ceiling so as not to stain the plastic. If this happens, you must immediately wipe the glue with a clean cloth, because it is quite difficult to clean it after drying. On this, the installation of a plastic ceiling is considered complete.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling

It is difficult to do without updating the ceiling surface when it comes to a full-fledged repair. And although worthy alternatives in a niche market a dime a dozen, installing pvc ceiling panels is still one of the most popular options. In many ways, due to the ease and accessibility of the work itself, as well as the absence of serious requirements for the selection of improvised tools. How to install pvc panels on the ceiling with your own hands will be discussed in our detailed article-instruction. Everybody required photos and video materials - to help you.

Material selection

Before the direct installation of pvc panels on the ceiling surface, it’s still like before the moon, until you decide on the color, texture and size of the material. Each hardware store will immediately offer you a wide range of plastic panels, so do not pick up desired option- it is necessary to try. However, here are a few tips to help you make the right purchase:

• for small rooms, select panels with a width of no more than 25 centimeters, for large rooms - more than 25 centimeters, respectively;
• pay attention to the product specification: ceiling panels, despite the visual similarity, differ from wall panels in their lighter weight;
• ordinary white panels are most often used for finishing public and home bathrooms, for other options it is best to choose colored or textured options - visually they can support even the most interesting and non-trivial interior;
• if the task is to visually enlarge the room, which cannot boast of a decent area, perfect choice there will be panels with a glossy surface, significantly working to create volume and depth;
• choose panels with a hidden seam - this way your ceiling will look more monolithic, but if you are going to use a whole cascade of built-in lamps, then it is quite possible to allow the purchase of a material with a dedicated seam, the main thing is to correctly fit it into the interior composition.

What is needed for installation?

Everything you need for installation is listed below in an easy-to-view list:

1. self-tapping screws;
2. anchor bolts;
3. dowel;
4. bars (for a wooden frame);
5. ceiling plinth;
6. CD and UD profiles;
7. crab hangers.

Tool preparation

Make sure you have all the necessary tools at your fingertips. So, you will need:

• roulette;
• pencil, marker;
• level;
• paint cord;
• corner;
• metal scissors;
• jigsaw;
• perforator (drill);
• screwdriver

Foundation preparation

1. remove all fixtures and chandeliers mounted earlier;
2. mark the wiring points with a marker;
3. take away from concrete base ceiling surface all the dirt and dust.

markup

• determine with the help of the level the lowest point of the base of the ceiling;
• step back 5 cm and mark a point that will serve as the level of your future ceiling;
• draw a line around the entire perimeter of the premises using a paint cord or a hydraulic level;
• your markup for making a frame for pvc panels is ready.

Frame preparation

The frame for the subsequent installation of PVC panels can be made of wooden bars, plastic or metal profiles. The decision on this issue is made only by you, but it is impossible not to cancel the generally recognized fact: in rooms with high humidity it is best to use metal profiles (read more about the technology of installing PVC panel ceilings in the bathroom), which are not as afraid of moisture as ordinary bars.

Frame made of wooden beams it will cost you about two times cheaper than metal, and it will assemble a little faster. True, you need to pick up bars with a cross section of at least 3 by 3 cm.

The nuance that you need to pay attention to: the price of perfectly even bars is equal to the price of finished metal profiles.

How much do you value your time spent on finishing the curved bars?

However, if you still successfully coped with uneven bars, then your next step is to fix them to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. Observe step 60 cm, and if you want to bring the plane perfectly into level, then prudently drive in the extreme strips and pull the nylon cords from them into the center and along the edges. Already in accordance with the stretched cords, drive in the rest of the bars in the same way, observing the minimum required step 50 cm.

Lathing of plastic U-shaped profiles it will cost you about the same amount as a metal one, but it is far from universal: if you later want to change the pvc panels to some other material, you will have to prepare the frame again.

Here's how it looks in the picture.

And here's how it is in reality.

The principle of fastening to the base is the same as that of the frame on wooden bars with the only difference that fixing should be done with the help of fixing screws through pre-mounted wedges. The advantage of this option is the amazing convenience of direct installation of PVC panels, which are easily driven into the groove. Well, we have already mentioned the disadvantages above.

The most common frame design is from metal profiles.

Here we will not reveal anything new to you:

1. the longitudinal CD profile is inserted into the opposite grooves of the guide UD profile;
2. with the help of crab hangers, the longitudinal CD profile is additionally fixed to the ceiling with anchor bolts;
3. step for installing suspensions - from 60 to 80 centimeters;
4. step for fixing profiles - 50-60 centimeters.

Installation of plastic panels

1. we fasten to the frame around the entire perimeter a ceiling plinth with a mounting groove using self-tapping screws;
2. we insert the first panel with a spike inside the starting profile and fix it on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or kleimer - depending on which type of construction you have chosen;
3. the installation of the next panel does not bring anything new: it is inserted into the groove of the previous one with a spike, pressed against the guides and fixed at the back;
4. the last panel is the most difficult, and in order to accurately install it, you need to cut it in length and then cut it in width in accordance with your measurements, and then carry out direct installation;
5. in the case where the last panel is not included, it is always easy to get rid of excess material using a clerical knife.

Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as plasterboard, stretch or armstrong, plastic panel ceilings have not lost their popularity to this day, due to their low cost and ease of installation.

Mostly plastic panels are used for mounting plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and cladding of communication systems, sewer and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch to control taps and water meters. The use of panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters, there are also 6 meters, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a docking H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and stands out strongly against the general background.

Do-it-yourself installation of panels begins with the assembly of the frame to which they will be attached, the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles that are used in the installation of drywall. It is better to use metal profiles, as they are more even, unlike a board or a bar.

Frame assembly materials:

• profile UD;
• CD profile;
• suspensions;
• dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
• self-tapping screws for metal with a press washer 4.2x13 mm "fleas".

Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• water level;
• drill bit 6 mm.

You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a drywall crown, a miter box, silicone.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels

If the ceiling is not hidden wiring, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible ignition.

Before installing the profiles, it is necessary to mark the ceiling to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the false ceiling overhang will block access to opening balcony windows.

I set the marks in the next step, you need to transfer them with the help of a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting Elk profile.

After marking, the installation of UD profiles is carried out. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that it Bottom part was at the mark, then using a puncher equipped with a drill bit, we drill the profile along with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel, which is convenient if you work alone.

The next step is the installation of suspensions, in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since in the future a CD profile is attached to the suspensions, then the marks are applied based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.

Next, we insert the CD profiles cut to the required length into the UD profile and fasten the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then we connect the suspension with the CD profile with self-tapping screws, if the profile span is large, then we check the level or pull the cord so that the frame is on the same level. At the end, we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.

If will be used wooden frame, it is desirable to treat it with an antifungal agent.

When the frame is ready, we fix the starting Elku profile or the fillet ceiling plinth or F-profile.

Professionals advise first fixing 3 guide profiles, and glue the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “Elks” at once, but then, due to poor pressure, a small gap may form between the last and previous panel, plus this method is an quick installation without the use of liquid nails.

Depending on your choice, whether this is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.

If the starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one is fastened with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 are fastened with self-tapping screws.

If this is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be fixed on liquid nails, and the latter is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.

The same can be applied to the F-profile.

I would like to note that no matter which version of the guide you choose, it can be attached to any of you convenient way, self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or nails on wood.

Laying the first row

We cut the PVC panel 5 mm less than required to facilitate installation.

We put one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To start the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.

We fasten the panel to the profile with a “flea” self-tapping screw. On a wooden frame, ordinary self-tapping screw for drywall.

We insert the second panel and press down so that the lock snaps into place.

Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling

There are several ways to pin the last panel:

1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm less in width, first slide it into the guide, and then push it into reverse side until the lock clicks.

2. Glue the last panel to the profiles on liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, the panel is glued first, and the fillet with the “tongue” cut off on it. For more information about the last option, see the video.

Fixtures for PVC

We make holes for recessed fixtures or ventilation using a drywall crown dressed on a screwdriver or drill.

How to make corners?

It is not necessary to cut corners on the L or F profile, they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After the installation is completed, we cover the gaps with silicone, watch the video.

In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PFC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.