Plasterboard is an easy-to-use, inexpensive, convenient and practical material for leveling curved walls, making lightweight partitions, suspended ceilings from it, making complex cornices and false panels. When self-finishing with plasterboard, the sheets are glued to the facing surfaces with gypsum mastics, or they are attached to the crate (wooden or metal frame) with self-tapping screws.

Materials (edit)

Plasterboard sheets

Gypsum plasterboard (dry gypsum plaster) is a versatile building material, which is rectangular flat panels consisting of a layer of hardened gypsum dough with fillers, and two layers of construction paper (cardboard), which is needed to impart greater strength and smoothness to the surface.

Plasterboard sheets are divided into:

• Conventional (GCR). It is used for the installation of walls, partitions, ceilings, niches, slopes, boxes.
• Moisture resistant (GKV, GVL, GKLV, GVLV). Used in rooms with high humidity.
• With increased resistance to open flame (GKLO). Suitable for rooms with high fire resistance requirements.
• Moisture resistant with increased resistance to open flame (GKLVO). They simultaneously possess the properties of moisture-resistant and refractory sheets.

Usually the sheets are 2,500 mm long and 1,200 mm wide. Thickness from 6.5 to 12.5 mm, depending on the purpose of the sheets.

Structural framing elements

In the manufacture of frames for fastening drywall, various materials are used. Basically, when assembling frames, metal profiles made of galvanized steel are used.

Metal profiles are classified into:

• Guide profile (PN) - used as a guide when installing rack-mount profiles.

• Rack profile (PS) - the main element for the frame device, to which gypsum plasterboards are attached.

• Ceiling profile (PP) - designed for mounting the frame when installing suspended ceilings.

Wall covering

The internal walls in the premises are lined with plasterboard boards in order not to perform the plastering operation. This finishing method is referred to as dry methods. Plasterboard sheets make the walls even, making it possible to glue the wallpaper and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are suitable for cladding brick, concrete and wood surfaces. The sheets can be fastened using special mastics, adhesives and self-tapping screws to the metal and wooden frame.

Surface cladding with adhesive mastics

Surface preparation

This method allows you to sheathe the walls with plasterboard with your own hands and is suitable if the supporting frame takes up a lot of space, and the height of the rooms does not exceed the height of the plasterboard sheet, since with this method it is unacceptable to create horizontal joints.

To begin with, the surface is cleaned, all the irregularities on the wall are removed, then the marking of the installation locations of the drywall panels is applied to the wall. Also, before preparation, it is necessary to complete all electrical work. The room in which the work is carried out must be pre-dried.

The walls are checked by hanging in the horizontal and vertical planes, with the further installation of beacons and stamps. Lighthouses (marks) are called plaster mortar guides, applied to the wall surface in one plane.

In order to install plaster beacons, it is necessary to hammer nails in the corners of the wall from above and below so that they protrude 30 mm from the surface. Intermediate nails are driven in depending on the height of the room. Then pull the cord horizontally, vertically and diagonally so that it is at a distance of about 18 mm from the wall surface. Beacons with a height of at least 15 mm should be installed under the cord.

Then, under each sheet of drywall, beacons are installed so that the vertical rows fall on the joining line of the two sheets. To do this, the wall is divided into grips, the width of which is equal to the width of the drywall sheets. The size of the beacons must be at least 80 × 80 mm in order for the sheet to have reliable support. On each vertical line there should be at least 3 beacons, the centers of which are arranged along the axis of the joint of the sheets, so that the edges of the two sheets can be supported on them. In this case, the upper beacon is installed at the ceiling level, and the lower one - at the floor level.

Intermediate beacons are created between the vertical beacons so that the sheet in the center does not bend during gluing.

Bonding drywall sheets

There are two ways how you can glue drywall with your own hands. In the first method, a whole sheet of drywall is placed in the corner of the room. In this case, the sheet placed against the corner of the adjoining wall will form a husk with its edge with the adjoining edge of the first sheet. In the second method, a groove is cut out on the sheet along the center line, and it is bent at an angle of 90 °. To do this, cut the cardboard and the plaster core with a knife from the reverse side, without damaging the front side of the sheet. And then you need to bend the sheet at an angle of 90 ° and install it in the corner of the room.

Previously, gypsum mastic is applied to the wall surface within the sheet dimensions. Mastic cakes should be 100-150 mm in diameter and 15-20 mm thick more than the thickness of the beacons.

The mastic is applied in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 350-450 mm. On the edges of the sheet, the mastic is applied in continuous stripes. After applying the mastic, the sheet is applied to the wall in accordance with the markings, and pressed with the rule, applying light blows. The mastic squeezed out from under the edges is removed with a spatula.

Plasterboard should be installed so that the bottom edge does not reach the floor by 10-15 mm. Before the final hardening of the mastic, the sheet must be fixed in this position - for about 30-40 minutes.

Facing surfaces with plasterboard sheets on wooden crate

For the manufacture of wooden lathing, they usually take bars with a thickness of 40 mm, which are pre-treated with antiseptics.

The frame is built in such a way that for each sheet there are 2 vertical bars, which should be located along its edges. If the sheet is wider than 500 mm, then another vertical bar is attached in the middle part of the crate. The width of the front surface of the bar, on which the joint of two plasterboard sheets falls, must be at least 80 mm.

In the places where the plasterboard sheets adjoin the floor, ceiling, as well as in the places where shelves, mirrors and other heavy objects are attached, horizontal bars are installed. Also, horizontal bars are nailed at the joints of two panels in height.

It is necessary that the front surfaces of the frame bars are in the same plane and be securely fixed, because the way the faced wall will look depends on this.

Before you start attaching the bars, markings and holes are drilled on the wall. The holes are made with a step of 800-1000 mm. The main difficulty when installing a wooden frame is getting a flat plane.

To level the plane of the frame, the wall is divided into grips, the dimensions of which correspond to the parameters of the drywall sheets. Next, two extreme beams are installed. In order for the beam to stand upright, it is pressed against the wall and checked with a building level or plumb line. If there are irregularities on the wall that prevent the bar from standing upright, they should be knocked down or cut down.

When securing the timber, it is necessary to make sure that the upper and lower ends in an upright position fit snugly against the wall. If in the middle part the bar takes a concave position, then it is necessary to make substrates between the bar and the wall of the required thickness.

For the installation of intermediate bars, a cord is pulled between the extreme ones.

The sheets can be fastened with both nails and self-tapping screws with a pitch of 400-600 mm. After completing the self-installation of drywall sheets, it is necessary to putty the joints and holes from screws or nails.

Wall cladding with plasterboard sheets on a metal frame

Now, when facing with plasterboard sheets, a metal frame is mainly used. This method has many advantages. It is much easier and faster to install such a frame than a wooden one, since special metal profiles are produced for it, and it lasts longer.

On the floor and ceiling, the installation site of the guides and rack profiles is marked using a plumb line or a laser level. Rack profiles are installed in increments of 600 mm.

First, the profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowel-nails, pre-leveling with a plumb line. Next, the extreme rack profiles are installed, and their position is checked by the level. A cord is pulled between the extreme racks and the middle racks are mounted on the resulting plane. To ensure the rigidity of the frame, the racks are attached to the wall with ceiling hangers. Metal profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

In the places of horizontal joints of the sheets, transverse jumpers are installed from the rack-mount profile.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, in increments of no more than 250 mm, retreating from the edge of the sheet 10-15 mm.

Related Videos

Given these recommendations, you can independently sheathe the walls with plasterboard, saving a lot on the services of specialists.

Plasterboard wall cladding for leveling and preparation for finishing is increasingly replacing traditional starter plaster. Drywall was invented for that: a synonym for it, as you know, is dry plaster. Leveling the walls with plasterboard, firstly, is much easier and cheaper than plastering in the old fashioned way. Especially - wooden walls: in order to plaster a tree in the Old Testament way, you must first put glassine on the wall, then felt soaked in liquid clay mortar and a 2-level lathing made of shingles. Secondly, the most experienced plasterer, working with a falcon and a trowel, will not remove the plaster layer more even than 3 mm / m. The plaster itself, drying out, will give more unevenness, because is applied with spots. Meanwhile, for many modern methods of decorative wall decoration, 3 mm / m is the limit.

Plasterboard sheathing allows you to bring the wall up to a common, between the corners diagonally, unevenness of 2 mm. Besides, plasterboard cladding has a trace in front of the solid plaster. Benefits:

• Hygienic and hypoallergenic - it does not get dusty, it does not get dirty.
• Improves heat and sound insulation of housing.
• "Breathes", ie absorbs excess water vapor from the air and gives off when there is a lack; this is especially important in an apartment of a house made of reinforced concrete or sand-lime bricks. Drywall breathing is not as deep and even as wood, but still not stone.

There are only 2 drawbacks to leveling the walls with drywall, but quite serious.

The first is fragility... If a corner of furniture falls on a wall plastered in the usual way, a pothole is possible, which is easy to repair. If a person stumbles or slips against such a wall, nothing will happen to it at all. Drywall in either case is threatened with a break and cracks.

Second - poor accessibility of hidden communications... If a pipe has flowed in an ordinary wall or the wiring has burned out, the matter will be dispensed with with a strobe, which is subsequently sealed. If there is an accident behind drywall, you will have to remove at least one slab, spoiling the finish until it needs to be completely replaced.

Taking into account all these circumstances, and it is necessary to solve the question: or drywall. In modern housing of a budget and medium level, the result is most often in favor of the latter due to its low cost and ease of work. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give the reader the fullest possible idea of ​​how to sheathe and level the walls with plasterboard with their own hands. sheathing the room with it approx. 12 sq. m hired craftsmen costs somewhere from 30 thousand rubles, the popularity of the material affects the pricing.

Material

Gypsum board is a compressed mass of cellulose filler with a gypsum binder, covered with a protective paper layer. It is produced in sheets (GKL), up to 16 mm thick, and plates (GKP) up to 32 mm thick. For cladding walls and ceilings, ordinary gypsum boards are used, moisture-resistant GKLV of green color, fire-resistant GKLO of red or orange and fire-moisture resistant GKLVO green with a red stripe.

GKLO and GKLVO are used for finishing wooden buildings, because in the event of a fire, they retard the spread of the flame for a time sufficient to evacuate people. All types of gypsum board and gypsum board are intended only for internal use, because long-term exposure to outdoor conditions does not withstand. GKV racks in rooms with high humidity and occasional spraying (bathroom / toilet, hallway, basement, garage), but not in windy rains.

The parameters of the most common standard sizes of gypsum boards are given in the table, but in commercial practice they are often divided more simply: into arched up to 6.5 mm thick, ceiling 9.5 mm thick and wall 12.5 mm thick (all - including paper covering). Arched drywall is intended for the manufacture of volumetric decorative structures, but it can also find auxiliary use for wall cladding, see below. Ceiling gypsum boards of lesser weight, as the name implies, sheathe the ceilings.

The main methods of sheathing

Plasterboard wall decoration can be done with frame (on the crate), frameless with glue and combined. The latter, in all its properties and qualities, is equivalent to frameless, therefore they are often not separated. The advantage of frameless plating of gypsum board is the extreme simplicity and low cost of work. In it, the fragility of drywall is also less affected due to its larger adhesion area to the supporting (base) wall. The disadvantage is the dependence of the stability of the entire cladding on the state of the base wall: if it locks or somehow loses its surface strength, a sudden collapse of the entire cladding is possible at once. Also, you cannot put GKL on wooden walls with glue. In principle, it is possible that such adhesives as aquarium silicone or Moment-gel hold the gypsum board equally well on the tree and never show through on the skin with spots. But the cost of finishing will be such that mahogany lining is unlikely to cost more. Therefore, further on, the main attention will be paid to the plating of the gypsum board on the frame, as more costly, but reliable and allowing you to insulate the room from the inside.

Note: some consider an additional advantage of gypsum plating on the frame that it can be done without cleaning the base wall, i.e. on old plaster and wallpaper. But, firstly, this should not be done for sanitary and hygienic reasons. Secondly, without a technical assessment of the condition of the main bearing surface, there can be no confidence in the reliability of the entire cladding.

GKL on the frame

The wall cladding technology of gypsum board on the frame is based on the use of thin-walled galvanized steel profiles. By now, cladding on a wooden crate has completely outlived itself even on partitions in heated rooms: cracks creep along it 3-4 years later from thermal deformations and warping of wood. GKL sheathing on a wooden frame is suitable for small elements of volumetric structures sheathed in pieces without seams. GKL sheathing on a steel frame includes a trace. stages of work:

1. Preparation of the wall and existing communications;
2. The choice of the frame scheme, profiles and fasteners to it;
3. Measuring the unevenness of the load-bearing wall, marking for the frame, cutting and cutting the gypsum board;
4. Frame installation;
5. Fastening the gypsum board to the frame;
6. Grouting;
7. Installation of skirting boards covering the gaps.

Wall

From the wall under the plasterboard sheathing, you need to remove the old finish. The electrical wiring fits into the grooves; the pipes are enclosed by a frame using crossbars (see below), since making slots in the frame profiles for communications is unacceptable.

Profiles

For wall cladding, you will need profiles of the standard sizes shown in Fig. Sometimes the so-called. cap profile (see below). Shaped finishing profiles are most often used for plating the gypsum board slopes, but this is a special issue, much more complicated than wall cladding; masters for 1 slope take $ 30- $ 100, depending on its size and complexity.

Note: rack-mount profiles PS are sometimes called wall, and PN guides are called wall-mounted.

Wireframes

Typical scheme of plasterboard wall cladding on a frame made of PN, PNP and PS profiles shown on the next. rice. Suitable for most types of stone walls, also in a wooden house made of laminated veneer lumber, because it practically does not warp and does not "play" from temperature changes. Suitable for interior insulation and double cladding (see also at the end). According to a typical lathing, you can sheathe the walls of the GKP.

Sheathing on cap profiles(see next figure) is much cheaper than the typical one, but it is acceptable only in dry heated rooms. On wooden battens, you need to take a seasoned bar 75x50 chamber drying. If the overall unevenness of the wall is up to 10 mm, and the local unevenness is up to 3 mm / m, the hat profiles can be attached directly to the wall (see also below, about fasteners for the frame). Sheathing on hat profiles is possible with scraps or pieces of gypsum board in staggered directions, as well as horizontally oriented sheets. This can be significant if the height of the room (for example, 3.6 or 2.4 m) does not agree well with the length of the gypsum board sheets. It is not recommended to do double cladding along the cap profiles.

Finally, it is possible that the thickness of the sheathing together with the frame requires a minimum e.g. in confined spaces. Then it is possible to perform a crate for gypsum boards only from ceiling profiles (next figure), but double and single gypsum boards with a thickness of more than 14 mm and the GKP frame from ceiling profiles will not withstand. The recommended thickness of the gypsum board for installation on a frame made of ceiling profiles is up to 10 mm. The same type of frame can also be assembled only from PS profiles, but it will turn out to be just as weak, but of full typical thickness.

Note: sealing and damper tape in all cases - made of microporous rubber or similar material with a thickness of 4-6 mm.

Fasteners

On sale there is a rich nomenclature of fasteners for frames under the gypsum board, but the direct suspension can be considered universal (pos. 1 in the figure below), especially since it is permissible to double straight weights, pos. 2; "mustache" sticking out forward bend to the side. This allows you to mount the frame with the possibility of insulation on walls with potholes / bumps up to 40-50 mm. It is permissible to bend the mounting legs of straight hangers back for mounting exactly to an angle or a wooden post (see below). Direct hangers are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws in propylene dowels with the threaded part entering the wall, at least:

• Concrete - 70 mm.
• Made of red solid brick - 80 mm.
• Made of silicate and red hollow bricks - 90 mm.
• Wooden - 100 mm.
• From foam concrete, aerated concrete, PHB - 120 mm.

It is unlikely that any frame for gypsum board will do without crossbars, to bypass openings, communications and assembly of additional load-bearing beams at the joints of sheet belts. The cross members are cut from the same profile as the uprights of the frame. For their fastening, there are corner hangers on sale, but most craftsmen do without additional fasteners here. If you cut the corners of the profile, as in pos. 3a, then we get 3 fixing legs, pos. 3 b. But it is unacceptable to fasten the cross-members to the uprights (pos. 3c) in loaded structures: the heads of the self-tapping screws will become centers of dangerous local stresses in the skin. Sometimes the middle paw is cut out (pos. 3c), the side paws are bent, and the crossbars are fastened flush, but the knot turns out to be rather weak. It will be correct to cut the middle paw and put it on top of the vertical stand, pos. 4. About the installation of the sheathing, a self-tapping screw will cut into it, the sheathing sheet will press down, and the entire fastener will be very reliable.

How to fix it?

Since I had to touch on the issues of assembling the frame and fastening the cladding ahead of time, it must be said that the frame is assembled on self-tapping screws for metal LN9 (with a press-washer head), and the gypsum board is attached to the frame with TN25 screws. The head of the latter is not tapered! It smoothly goes into the screw body! If you attach the gypsum board with self-tapping screws with conical heads, the sheathing will not last long, see also below. Installation holes for self-tapping screws are punched in advance with a special profile cutter, see Fig. If they are simply drilled, then skirts for threading will not form, and the screws will not hold at all.

Marking for the frame

By cleaning the wall with a long, even rail - the rule (stress on "and") - determine its overall unevenness; you may need to change the selection of the wireframe scheme. Then find the height of the protruding hillock itself. After that on the ceiling beat off a line perpendicular to adjacent walls and spaced from the level of the top of the highest hillock of the wall to be sheathed by at least 20-30 mm. From this line, along a plumb line on the floor, beat off another; in this way, the alignment of the frame parts is greatly simplified.

Further, starting from the angle, vertical lines are beaten off along a plumb line with a step of 600 mm so that they fall exactly on the joints of the sheets. It should also be taken into account that the sheets of gypsum board must be spaced from adjacent walls, floor and ceiling by 20-30 mm. That is, the first line is beaten at 620-630 m from the corner, the next at 1220-1230 mm, etc. The last line should be spaced from the final corner by the same 20-30 mm plus half the mounting width of the profile, i.e. 80-90 mm.

The next step is to make a mark on the vertical lines 80-90 mm from the floor and the next in increments of 600 mm until less than 600 mm remains to the ceiling. Then the last vertical marks are also made 80-90 mm from the ceiling. A direct suspension is applied to the vertical marks in turn and the places where holes are drilled for self-tapping screws into the wall are marked in place. If there are not enough standard sheets in height for a given room, in a similar way, but now by level, mark the wall for the installation of crossbars. Do not forget that the longitudinal axis of the cross-member profile must also fall on the joint of the sheathing belts! For now, you can be distracted by the markup and cutting of the gypsum board.

GCR preparation

At this stage of work, you first need to cut incomplete sheets to size. Cutting the gypsum board is simple: an incision with a mounting knife, a break in the weight, a notch from the inside out, see fig. below. "From the inside out" is conditional, both sides of the gypsum board are the same. Further, chamfers are removed from the edges of the sheets for grouting. To do this, you need a drywall edge planer, see fig. on right. If you have a one-time job for yourself, then it is better to rent it, because for anything else, this tool is unusable. You need to take a plane at 2 angles - at 45 and 22.5 degrees; why - see below, about grouting.

Note: cut the last sheet along the row (belt) to fit the width of approx. 10 mm narrower than measured. The fact is that for thermal deformations of the sheets themselves, a gap of 1-2 mm must be given between them. On a wall of normal length, somewhere so much will run. You can take this value into account when marking a wall for a frame, but there will be a lot of fuss, and a profile width of 60 mm on a regular wall is enough to compensate for the discrepancy.

The next point is marking and drilling / cutting holes and openings for sockets, lamps, pipes, ventilation, etc. To do this, it is convenient to use a sheet of ordinary packaging cardboard with a width of 600 mm: it is applied to the wall, pressed over the recesses with the palm of your hand, outlined with a pencil, cut out and transferred to the gypsum board. In drywall, holes are cut with a feather or circular drill, and rectangular openings with a drywall knife. It looks like an assembly one, only its blade is thicker and stronger.

Assembling the frame

Installation of the frame for the plasterboard sheathing begins with the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. If the adjacent walls are not sheathed, PN profiles are also placed on them to make a one-piece frame, see fig. on right; connecting its corners - on each side on both sides using a TN9 self-tapping screw (so that the head does not protrude). First attachment points to the floor / ceiling 60 mm from the edge; the rest - in increments of approx. 300 mm so that the latter also falls 60 mm from the other edge.

Next, direct suspensions are attached to the wall, PS / PP profiles are inserted into the PN / PPN (first at the bottom, then at the top), shifted to the place and their evenness horizontally and vertically is checked with a rule and a plumb line or a level in which there is a tube for verticality. If before. the work was done accurately, then additional alignment is not required. Then the "whiskers" of direct suspensions are bent to the rack profiles and the profiles are fixed.

The next stage is the installation of crossbars. How it is done is described above, but sometimes, say, when tracing pipes running along a wall, a second level needs to be added to the frame. This is done with 2-tiered crabs, see fig. left. It may also be necessary to assemble the crossbars from pieces, because they will be used for trimming. Collecting rack and guide profiles from pieces is permissible only as a last resort!

The sections of the profile are connected end-to-end with straight connectors, pos. 1 and 2 in the figure:

In critical places, for example, in the outline of the openings of doors, windows and mortgages for hanging furniture and equipment, it is highly desirable to connect the crossbars with uprights not in a simple way, but with the help of special crosses, the so-called. single-tier crabs, pos. 3 and 4.

In the end, you should end up with something like the one in fig. on right.

Corners

In the case when all walls are sheathed with gypsum board, special attention should be paid to the outline of the corners. Internal problems usually do not happen; the outlining diagrams of the inner corners for cladding on the frame and combined with glue (see below) are given in pos. 1 and 2 next. rice. By the way, GKL Knauf over the past year and a half has gone to waste to a complete disgrace: everything is in bubbles, soft as foam, you can pierce it with your finger. Not counterfeit, original.

Outside corners are more difficult. It is impossible to put on their edge on the counter, at once 2 sheets will have hanging edges, which is unacceptable. The stand must be placed on one edge of the corner, a hanging profile of the same should be attached to it, and the edges of the gypsum board are already attached to it, pos. 3. Then a PU profile is applied to the joint of the sheets on Fugenfüller glue or similar, pos. 4. PU is best taken with a reinforcing mesh, pos. 5.

PU protrudes above the gypsum board by 2-2.5 mm. This ledge must be reduced to the general level of the cladding at a width of 400-500 mm, then it will not be noticeable and will not interfere with any finishing. Smooth the PU protrusion with a gypsum starting putty and a spatula acc. width.

Insulation under the skin

Generally speaking, it is bad to insulate from the inside: there is a high probability of dew point getting inside the room. It is highly recommended to lay insulation under the gypsum board sheathing only if the wall is already insulated from the outside. In this case, the insulation under the plasterboard cladding of the concrete wall is done according to the scheme in Fig. on right. If the wall is brick or wooden, before installing the frame, a semi-permeable waterproofing membrane is applied to it, the same one used for thermal insulation of roofs: it does not allow water to pass through, but releases its vapors outside. Best of all is a micro-perforated membrane.

Instead of penofol, foil-insol or a similar vapor barrier can be used. It is applied to the frame before installing the sheathing with a continuous layer of foil inside. The overlap of the edges of the vapor barrier tapes - from 15 cm; the joints are glued with construction tape. The flaps of the edges on the floor, ceiling and walls are the same; the surplus is trimmed after installing the skirting boards. If there is no external insulation yet, then it is necessary:

• The cladding is made of gypsum plasterboard.
• The insulation should be taken not with mineral wool, but with cellulose insulation (ecowool), it does not fall off and retains its insulating properties when wet. True, ecowool will cost approx. 25% more expensive.
• Place a micro-perforated membrane on any wall before installing the frame.

Sheathing

To mark holes for fixing the gypsum board to the frame, pioneer holes are drilled in the sheets of approx. 2 mm in diameter, I apply the sheets in place and use a locksmith scribe to mark the places of the cuts on the profiles. The offset of the sheet from the floor of 20-30 mm is provided by scraps of a wooden strip. Mark them and do not lose, otherwise the holes will not converge later!

The number of attachment points is 45-70 per sheet with a length of 2000-3000 mm, respectively. 5 points are on the short sides (3 on the racks and 1 in between); the rest are evenly spaced along the long sides and along the centerline. The extreme points should be 9-12 mm from the edge of the sheet.

An important point when attaching the gypsum board to the frame is screwing self-tapping screws. The screwdriver must be set at minimum speed so that the screw head only presses into the cover paper without tearing it, as in pos. 2 fig. In other cases, the fastening will turn out to be weakened by 1.5-1.8 times, and if you do not screw up (pos. 1), then the protruding heads of the fasteners will also weaken the skin. At the end of the fastening, the heads of the self-tapping screws are rubbed with plaster putty.

Note: if the sheathing on the frame will have 2-3 belts of vertical sheets, then it makes no sense to run it apart - the sheathing will not add strength, only the frame will become overly complicated. At the joints of the belts, you need to put crossbars (see above), so that the horizontal joints fall exactly in their middle, and fasten the gypsum board as usual.

By wood

Fasten the plasterboard sheathing frame directly to the wooden wall, as in Fig. - a gross mistake. The construction people seem to have already taken a sip of grief and broke firewood: many schemes of floating crate under the gypsum board in a wooden house wander around the Runet. In fact, ordinary direct suspensions can be an effective damper between the "walking" wooden wall and the plasterboard sheathing, you just need to put them correctly.

Sheathing of wooden walls of gypsum board is carried out using a vertical counter-lattice made of beams from 60x75; wider (60x100, 60x150) - it will not be worse, only more space will be taken away from the room. Frame scheme - typical, made of PN / PS profiles. As for the attachment of direct suspensions to the beams, 2 options are possible here.

The first one is in a house made of laminated veneer lumber and with central heating. The mounting legs of the hangers are bent back and attached to the timber from the sides, so the entire sheathing will be stiffer. The second - in other cases: the hangers are attached to the beams with pairs of 6x60 wood screws through the oval hole in the suspension shelf (see again the figure with fasteners). Self-tapping screws are taken with faceplates and screwed into the wood, stepping back from the edges of the hole by 6-10 mm. In this case, it is advisable to make the cladding 2-layer from 9 mm sheets (arched gypsum board).

Seams

The methods of grouting the joints between the sheets / plates of the gypsum board are different depending on the type of decorative wall decoration. For an elastic finish that requires an absolutely flat base, but not afraid of microcracks under it (non-woven or foam wallpaper, PVC-based photo wallpaper, plastic tiles), the chamfer at the edges is removed at 22.5 degrees so that the top angle of the V-shaped groove between the plates is 45 degrees. The groove is rubbed with a starting gypsum putty with a plasticizer, flush with the common surface.

For other types of finishes, the edge planer is placed at 45 degrees, and the top angle of the groove will be 90 degrees. In this case, the groove is filled with a putty (better glue) in some excess, then rubbed into a strip. Further, until the putty begins to set, apply a serpentine tape (left in the figure) and press it with a polished steel spatula (right in the figure) or roll it with a slightly damp smooth roller. When the grout hardens, rub it with putty and serpyanka with a smooth transition to the common plane, as in the outer corner, see above.

Note: on the crosshairs of the seams, first apply and press on a pair of folded L-shaped pieces of serpyanka with wings at the seams from 15 cm. Then the tape is laid along the seam with the same overlap on the wings.

Skirting boards

Skirting boards along the contour of the sheathing are attached to the floor or ceiling. If adjacent walls are sheathed, then a PU profile with a reinforcing tape is placed in the inner corner, as on the outer one, and the plinth is already attached to it with mounting glue.

Without frame

GKL cladding on glue without a frame, as mentioned at the beginning, is quite possible. But, contrary to popular belief, its technology is determined mainly by the unevenness of the wall, and not by its material. Options for gluing the gypsum board on the walls are given in Fig.:

Method for pos. в - combined; first, a crate made of strips of the same gypsum board is glued to the wall. Method b lumps of glue approx. 10 cm across are staggered in 250 mm increments. The height of the lumps is the greatest unevenness of the wall + 20 mm, because the optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is 12-20 mm. The wall for gluing the gypsum board must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Note: prepare the glue exactly according to the instructions. It is unacceptable to block dry glue with water; stir only with a drill with a mixer. In general, the strength and reliability of the glued sheathing depend very much on the quality of the water for preparing the glue.

GKL is glued to the wall with continuous control of horizontal evenness (rule) and vertical (level with a bubble on a plumb line). Here the stumbling block for beginners is the transferred slab. Pulling it away from the wall is unacceptable, you can only press it down. In this case, preliminary gluing on the wall of the lighthouses from the scraps of the working gypsum board or any other can help out, see Fig. on right. Firms dealing with drywall will willingly give away small waste of arched gypsum board, they are just rubbish. The transferred lighthouse can be torn off and glued again, in this case, the lighthouses are just a support.

Lighthouses are glued to the wall so that they fit between the cakes or strips of glue on the working plate. On a sheet / plate of gypsum board you need 4 beacons at some distance from the corners. The lighthouses are first glued to the lower row, leveling with the rule, then from the lower row lighthouses they lead the rows up, pressing down with the rule and adjusting the level. GKL boards / sheets are glued when the glue under the beacons gains strength, i.e. after 3-4 days.

Note: lately, "people's builders" have even more cheapened and simplified the gluing of gypsum board on the wall, replacing the glue ... with polyurethane foam. Technically, it looks very doubtful, but there is no more or less long-term experience in operating such a skin, so everything is possible in the future. Watch the video if you like //www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEu7IJdnqVA, and then decide whether to try. In damp, cold (but not to a minus!) Utility rooms, probably worth it. If it holds out there, then it will fit everywhere. And the method is ridiculously simple and cheap.

GKL decor?

The fact that three-dimensional decorative interior details are made of gypsum plasterboard (on the left in the figure): niches, shelves, suspended ceilings, even cabinets, is well known. However, a flat multi-level decorative plasterboard finish is also possible, in the center in Fig. For this, the workpieces are glued to the wall, applying a thin (approx. 2 mm) layer of drywall glue to them with a notched trowel. If a close room is sheathed, where there will be no slab joints on the walls, for example. balcony, then the cladding can simply be painted, and PVC skirting boards or corners can be glued to the corners, on the right in Fig. Option for sheathing with joints - do not chamfer the edges, leave 2-3 mm gaps between the plates, and roll a T-shaped furniture PVC edge in them with a smooth roller.

GKL suspension

To hang pieces of furniture and household appliances on a wall sheathed with gypsum board, it is necessary to provide in advance in the frame embedded parts from a wooden bar or OSB. If the suspension point is up to 20-30 kg, the embeds can simply be attached to the profiles, as in the figure:

If there is more weight on the suspension point or expensive equipment is suspended (TV, microwave), then the embedments must be framed with crossbars from the profile of the racks. Well, if that suspension point is less than 15-20 kg, then the suspensions can be fastened through the skin, see eg. video clip:

(No ratings yet)

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are an excellent substitute for the usual method of leveling walls - plaster. The article discusses the main methods of using this material.

Plasterboard wall cladding

Plasterboard sheets are available in sizes 1200 * 2500 mm, thickness varies from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. The technical characteristics of drywall allow it to be used for interior decoration in all premises. There are types of drywall with increased moisture or fire resistance.

Interior plasterboard: advantages and disadvantages

Wall and ceiling cladding has a number of undeniable advantages:

• the ability to hide under the sheets of communication, for example, electrical wiring or heating pipes;
• the ability to level even very uneven walls;
• high speed of installation;
• mineral wool can be laid in the voids between the wall and the cladding to increase sound and thermal insulation.

Of the significant drawbacks, it should be noted that, relative to plaster, the cost of material and work, the impossibility of hanging heavy objects without preliminary preparation.

Plating methods

GKL surfaces are decorated in 2 ways:

1. On the frame.
2. Directly on a wall or ceiling.

The frame is usually made of a galvanized metal thin-walled profile, but it is also possible to manufacture it from wood. When fixing sheets without a profile, special glue and dowels with self-tapping screws are used.

GKL cladding on the frame: technology

When attaching material using a frame, it is very important to mount it correctly.

• The guides fixed to the walls must be strictly vertical, as well as the intermediate posts.
• The distance between the centers of the posts should be 600 mm, i.e. such that the joint of the sheets falls on the profile.
• To strengthen the structure, the size can be reduced to 400 mm.
• If it is necessary to dock the sheets vertically, a horizontal profile is installed to tie 2 sheets together.
• Drywall is attached to the metal frame with black self-tapping screws for metal, 25-32 mm long, to the wooden frame - with self-tapping screws for wood of the same length.
• To improve the strength and insulating properties, it is possible to sew with sheets in 2 layers. In this case, the sheets are sewn in a checkerboard pattern.

How to sew drywall without a frame

GKL without using a frame can be fixed on special glue or mechanically, using dowels and self-tapping screws. It is allowed to combine these 2 methods by fixing the sheets first on the adhesive composition, and after it dries on the screws. In this case, it is important to fix drywall with hardware in those places where the glue is applied, and not between them, because the coating can be deformed and even broken.

GKL decor

Plasterboard walls and ceilings are painted, pasted over with wallpaper, plain or for painting, trimmed with decorative plaster compounds. The walls are faced with tiles, decorative bricks, stones, etc.

Suspension

Only light items such as photographs, decorative shelves, and light mirrors can be hung on drywall walls. To screw the screws into the gypsum board, special dowels are used: drive, molly or "butterflies". Provided that the location of the profile is precisely known, you can screw metal screws to hang various objects directly into the frame elements. For attaching heavier items (cabinets or bookshelves), you need to arrange special mortgages.

Do-it-yourself profile mounting technology on walls

For the device of false walls made of drywall, the following tools will be required:

• Roulette, square, pencil.
• Level.
• Plumb line.
• Thread (lace).
• Scissors for metal or grinder.
• Perforator.
• Screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Profile cutter.
• Construction knife.
• Plasterboard planer.
• Putty knife.

Materials:

• Guide profile PN.
• Post profile PS or ceiling profile PP.
• Straight suspension.
• Single-level connector (crab).
• Dowels.
• Self-tapping screws for wood, metal, black.
• self-tapping screws for thin plates with a press washer pointed (bugs).
• Damper tape.
• Serpyanka tape or paper tape for joints.
• Putty.

Dowel attachment methods: how to install

A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the future wall, and a guide profile is attached to it. The frame element is installed on the floor in the form of an inverted letter "P", fastened with self-tapping screws to a wooden floor or dowels and self-tapping screws to a concrete floor. After that, the guide is fixed strictly vertically above the floor profile to the ceiling, then the guides are attached to the walls.

Strict verticality must be observed, unless otherwise provided by the design.

How to choose fasteners for brick, concrete and wooden walls

For attaching hangers and guides to the walls, you may need various hardware, depending on the material of the walls. The frame elements are attached to the wooden walls with wood screws. For installation on brick or concrete surfaces, you need to use dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. The use of dowel nails increases the speed of work, but it is more difficult to dismantle them if necessary to redo the structure

How to properly mount and lay a profile

After installing the guides around the perimeter, mark the location of the rack profiles. Usually they are located at a distance of 600 mm between the centers, so that the vertical joints of the sheets fall clearly in the middle of the profile. To make the frame more rigid, the distance is reduced to 400 mm. From the points obtained, vertical lines are drawn, direct suspensions are attached to them with a step of 400-500 mm. Insert the cut-to-size rack profile with the ends into the guides on the floor and in the ceiling.

The rack profile should be cut 5-6 mm shorter than the distance between the floor and the ceiling.

The rack profile is set vertically and attached to the guides with "bugs" or with a cutter, then attached to the suspensions, constantly checking the verticality using a level. When all the profiles are fixed, you should check the plane using a rule, a long level or thread. A deviation from the plane of more than 2 mm should be corrected.

At the joints of the sheets in height, additional horizontal profiles are installed. It is recommended to arrange such joints at the bottom of the wall.

How to screw gypsum plasterboard sheets to the frame: installing drywall on the walls

Plasterboard sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long. The sheet is installed in place, fastened to 1 self-tapping screw, then adjusted in level and fastened to the rest. The fixing pitch should be approximately 200 mm or more. The hardware is twisted so that the head is flush with the surface of the sheet without breaking the paper.

You need to fasten the sheet in one direction, for example, from left to right from bottom to top. If you fix the sheet in different corners, it can bend with further fixing.

First, whole sheets are fastened, then the parts are cut to size and the remaining parts of the wall are closed. The edges of the cut are processed with a drywall plane.

Before stitching the wall with sheets, sound and heat insulation materials and wiring can be laid under the frame.

Grouting seams and holes from dowels: how to finish

Seams with a factory bevel on the wall are glued with serpyanka tape or paper tape for joints. Seams without chamfer are cut with a construction knife. The surface is primed. Seams and grooves from self-tapping screws are putty with plaster-based putty mixtures. As a rule, it is indicated on the packaging of the material whether it is suitable for sealing gypsum boards or not.

Sheathing and finishing the ceiling in the apartment yourself: what you need

For the device of the plasterboard ceiling, you will need the same tools as for the walls. Additionally, you will need a hydro level or a laser level, a coated marking cord and a T-shaped post made of bars or a profile. It is more convenient to do all work on the ceiling with a partner.

How to attach to a concrete base on the ceiling

The locations of the ceiling profiles are marked on the ceiling. They are usually placed along a short wall in 600 mm increments. The most convenient way to do this is with a coated cord. Then the suspensions are attached to dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. If the ceiling is lowered to a considerable distance from the rough one, you need to use special suspensions, similar to the armstrong ceiling mounts.

Fastening the guides

The attachment point is marked using a laser level or a hydro level, marking points in the corners of the room at a given height, usually as close as possible to the rough ceiling, and drawing lines using a marking cord. A damper tape is attached to the wall, then the guide profiles. The plasterboard ceiling can be lowered for laying insulating materials or communication devices.

How to hang sheets correctly

GKL is attached to the frame, starting from the corner, with the long side along the short wall, parallel to the ceiling profiles on the plane. It is most convenient to fix the sheets by supporting them with a special stand, which can be purchased in a store or made independently from a bar or profile in the shape of the letter "T". It is recommended to use moisture resistant gypsum board.

Do not let go of the sheet until it is secured with at least 15 screws.

Do-it-yourself cladding of uneven walls: what is worth remembering

When facing walls, it is important to maintain verticality and make sure that the profile does not deviate from the plane. If the gypsum board is attached to a wall without a frame, it is important to fasten the screws in places where the sheet will not "walk", otherwise the screws will protrude on the surface. Before facing the walls, it is advisable to sweep or vacuum them and the space behind the frame, it is also recommended to prime them to avoid the appearance of dust.

How to install faster

To increase the speed of installing drywall on the wall, you need to correctly mount the frame and fix the first sheet without deviations in level. The fastest way to do such work is two or three, when one person is busy installing sheets in place and cutting to size, and the remaining 1 or 2 are pulled with self-tapping screws. The use of professional screwdrivers with a tape supply of hardware significantly increases the speed of work.

What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall

With appropriate preparation, almost any object, including cabinets and storage water heaters, can be attached to gypsum plasterboard walls. For this, in the manufacture of the frame, they arrange the so-called mortgages from plywood or boards. Lumber is sewn onto the rough wall so that the front surface of the mortgage is in the same plane with the frame. If the mortgage is deeper than the frame, it will push through the wall when attaching hinged objects.

How can you cover plasterboard cladding

After sealing the seams and holes from the fasteners, the wall made of gypsum plasterboard can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper, covered with decorative plaster, covered with textile wallpaper. It is recommended to cover surfaces made of moisture-resistant plasterboard with a continuous layer of putty, otherwise the green color may be visible through the topcoat.

Also, the walls can be covered with tiles, decorative stone or brick, stucco, panels. It is not necessary to process the seams and traces of self-tapping screws before cladding.

Plasterboard is a modern finishing material that allows finishing work with minimal labor and time costs.

Useful video

Interior decoration. Modern materials and technologies Valentina I. Nazarova

Wall cladding technology with drywall sheets

The technology of wall cladding with plasterboard sheets provides for two methods - frameless and frame. With the frameless method, the sheets are glued to the walls using special adhesives, while the permissible height of the rooms to be faced is equal to the height of the sheet, but not more than 3.0 meters. With the frame method, the sheets are mounted on a previously installed frame, while the height of the premises is not limited by the height of the sheet, but should not exceed 10 meters.

In both cases, the installation of the cladding should be carried out during the period of finishing work before the installation of clean floors, when all the "wet" processes are completed. Work should be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C.

Only if these requirements are met and the technology is observed, cracks on the finished surface can be avoided.

Frameless wall cladding

With a frameless installation method, plasterboard sheets are glued directly to the wall. Depending on the evenness of the wall, there are three options for gluing sheets (fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Frameless way of surface cladding

Option A. A smooth wall surface implies gluing sheets to the wall surface, which is quite rare in practice. Such walls, as a rule, are made of reinforced concrete panels, and partitions are made of tongue-and-groove blocks. The glue used is a mixed solution of Fugenfüller gypsum putty or Perlfix glue. They are applied to the gypsum board in continuous stripes around the perimeter and one or two stripes in the center with a thin layer using a notched trowel (Fig.12a).

When using Fugenfüller putty, the solution protruding from the gaps of adjacent sheets is used to seal the joints and to level the putty between the joints.

Option B... The unevenness of the wall is no more than 20 mm. These can be walls made of bricks, small blocks and other materials that require a thicker layer of gypsum glue. In this case, "Perlfix" glue is used, which is applied with a trowel in small blotches (piles) along the perimeter of the sheet with a step of about 25 ... 30 cm and along the middle of the sheet in 1-2 rows with a step of 35 ... 40 cm (Fig.12b).

Option B. The unevenness of the wall is more than 20 mm. On such surfaces, a flat plane is preliminarily formed using strips cut from a gypsum board sheet, about 10 cm wide, oriented along the perimeter and center of the sheet (Fig.12c). The surface of the wall for strips is prepared and treated with an appropriate primer, paint roller. The strips are glued to the surface with Perlfix glue, which is applied with a trowel. The glued strips act as beacons and must be well calibrated and glued in the same plane of the wall. After the glue has completely dried, a sheet is glued to these strips using Fugenfüller glue. After the glue has set, the butt joints are sealed.

Before the start of the cladding work, it is necessary to complete all construction, installation and finishing work associated with "wet" processes, as well as to perform hidden electrical wiring and lay plumbing communications. The outlets of electrical cables to the junction boxes of electrical outlets and switches are laid so that their ends are accessible at the end of the lining with plasterboard sheets and when drilling the holes for the installation boxes they are not touched by cutters.

To increase adhesion (adhesion) to the walls, the surfaces must first be cleaned of dirt, dust and formwork residues, and then treated with appropriate primers.

The choice of the type of primer is carried out depending on the hygroscopicity of the walls. For smooth concrete walls that do not absorb moisture well, this is Vetocontact. For hygroscopic, that is, moisture-absorbing walls, surfaces are treated with Tiefengrund or Grundirmittel primers in order to reduce the absorption of moisture from the adhesive and enhance adhesion.

Before installing the sheets, their position is marked on the outside of the sheet. The markings are made from the wall, taking into account the required gap for the thickness of the adhesive mass and the sheet itself, and marking lines are applied along them with the help of bump dyeing laces. The right angles of the adjacent walls are checked and then the marks are transferred to the ceiling and base wall using a plumb line.

Installation of drywall sheets is carried out along the marking lines. After the primer has dried, an adhesive solution is prepared and applied to the sheet. The sheet rises, is installed on lining of 1 ... 2 plasterboard strips, 10 ... 20 mm high from the floor level and is pressed against the wall. By lightly tapping on the rule pressed against the sheet, it is aligned and brought into a strictly vertical position. The verticality control is checked by level.

A gap of 5 mm should be provided between the upper edge of the sheets under the overlap, when making joints, it is filled with putty, and before installation, a separating tape is glued (fig. 13).

Rice. 13. Fastened gypsum boards to walls with irregularities up to 20 mm

With the help of the thickness of the linings, the sheets are vertically aligned, at the same time their adhesion to the walls and to each other is controlled. The resulting gap at the base provides ventilation of the gypsum plasterboard when the adhesives dry, and also prevents the sheets from coming into contact with the mortar when installing a self-leveling floor screed.

After the glue has completely hardened, the joints are sealed. Since the frameless cladding is carried out to the height of the drywall sheet, in this case only vertical joints arise, which can be putty using two types of putties. With some types of putties, the arrangement of joints provides for the use of a reinforcing tape, with others - without reinforcing the joints with a tape.

Putty "Fugenfüller" is used for sealing longitudinal joints of gypsum boards with a thinned edge and always with the use of a reinforcing tape. Such material is mesh or perforated glass cloth tape or tape made of high quality paper.

Fugenfüller GV putty is used especially for sealing seams and joints, which has a tensile strength comparable to the strength of the gypsum plasterboard sheets themselves. Joints with semicircular edges are filled with Uniflot mixture without reinforcing tape. At the same time, the Uniflot universal gypsum putty, which has high strength characteristics, ensures reliable sealing of the joint and high quality of finishing.

For sealing joints of gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard without reinforcing tape, a special high-strength putty "CE 86" manufactured by "SEMIN" or various compositions from other manufacturers is also used.

There are two technologies for using reinforcing tapes: either embed the tape in a fresh layer of putty, or stick it on the putty surface. Since high-quality tapes pass moisture well, then after the putty dries, a solid monolithic reinforced layer is formed. Before puttingtying, all joints of the sheets are carefully primed.

After the primer has dried, a layer of putty is applied to the joint with a width slightly larger than the width of the tape, then the reinforcing tape is pressed with a spatula into the applied putty (Fig.14a). The operation is performed immediately after the application of the putty, before it begins to harden. After the first layer of putty has completely dried, a cover layer is applied to the entire width of the butt joint, i.e., to the entire thinning area, using spatulas with a width exceeding double the width of the thinning of the sheets (Fig.14b).

After complete drying, the seams are sanded using hand grout, using different numbers of a special sanding mesh for gypsum solutions or emery cloths until a single plane with the sheets is obtained. (Fig.14c).

Rice. 14. Seam formation

The outer corners of drywall sheets should be reinforced with a metal perforated corner. The corner is pressed into the previously applied putty and then covered with a leveling layer (Fig. 14 d).

Internal corners are putty using a reinforcing tape bent at the required angle.

For the final finishing of the surfaces, the Finish-Paste putty mixture is used. It is an easy-to-sand material, intended for applying thin layers over putty surfaces, it is also used for preparing surfaces for high-quality painting.

Due to the fact that gypsum fiber sheets do not have thinned edges, the seams between them are sealed without reinforcing tapes using Fugenfüller GV putty, which is at the same time an adhesive for these sheets.

When facing walls of gypsum plasterboard with surface roughness up to 20 mm, adhesives "Perlfix GV" are used, which is applied along the perimeter of the sheets without a gap in order to avoid the appearance of voids in the seams. This facilitates the further sealing of the joints.

Frame way of wall cladding

With significant irregularities and deviations of the walls, as well as in rooms with a height of more than 3 m, frame methods of wall cladding with sheets of gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard are increasingly used.

Until recently, sheets were fixed on a frame made of wooden blocks or on a frame made of metal corners. Neither the first nor the second option were reliable: the wooden frame is susceptible to rotting and swelling (shrinkage) in adverse conditions, and the frame made of metal corners is a complex and extremely heavy structure.

However, plasterboard cladding over wood framing is still widely practiced. (fig. 15). In this case, it is necessary to attach wooden slats with a cross section of at least 50 × 30 mm to the floor and ceiling using dowels or screws. At the same time, they are aligned vertically and along one line by placing wooden blocks of the required thickness in the right places. Vertical wooden racks with a cross section of at least 75 × 25 mm with a step equal to the width of the sheet are installed in the spacer between the floor and ceiling slats. Additionally, in the interval between these bearing racks, two or three supporting wooden racks with a cross section of at least 50 × 25 mm are installed. All installed racks are aligned with the floor and ceiling strips.

Rice. 15. Wall cladding on a wooden frame

To improve heat and sound insulation, a layer of glass wool can be placed between the slats.

Then the wooden frame is sheathed with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws for wood with a length of at least 30 mm in increments of at least 25 cm. The work is carried out in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. There should be a gap of 5 ... 7 mm between the drywall sheets for subsequent finishing of the seams.

A structure with a metal profile frame seems to be more reliable, since the quality of work is controlled in stages: upon completion of the frame installation, then the installation of gypsum board or gypsum board and joints. The structure is easily sheathed with the second and subsequent layers of sheets (if justified), the wiring is facilitated and the installation of a large number of junction boxes for electrical, television and telephone sockets is not laborious. The resulting gap between the wall and the cladding can be filled with mineral wool, which provides additional heat and sound insulation.

Products from metal profiles required for technological wall cladding, ceiling and partitions are manufactured by enterprises of the KNAUF industrial group. Profiles manufactured by other domestic enterprises are also supplied to the markets.

Metal profiles are produced by cold rolling from galvanized steel strip 0.56 ... 0.6 mm thick.

Rice. 16. Main profiles and their sections

Main types of products (fig. 16): guide profile (PN), ceiling guide profile (PNP), rack profile (PS), ceiling profile (PP), corner profile (PU). The dimensions of these products are given in tab. 7.

Table 7 Types and sizes of profile products

The frame is assembled from galvanized profiles: racks and guides with obligatory fastening to the wall with brackets (fig. 17). The PP ceiling profile is used as uprights, which is mounted in tandem with the corresponding PNP guide profile. The brackets are mainly made of straight hangers and are attached to the rack with self-tapping screws. Between each other, the rack and guide profiles are fixed with a cutter using the "notch with bend" method.

Rice. 17. Node of the base of the frame

The shelves of the rack-mount profile have three longitudinal grooves along the entire length, with the middle one indicating the junction of the drywall sheets, and the two lateral ones center the screwed in screws. In the backs of the profiles, special holes are provided, which are necessary for laying utility lines inside the wall or partition. These paired holes are located at the ends of the profiles and have a diameter of 33 mm.

Installation technology is as follows. Marking is performed on the basis of the floor and ceiling. The position of the guides, rack-mount profiles, and anchor points for the installation of rack-mount profiles are marked. In order to minimize the distance from the wall, it is advisable to use a narrow PP 60 × 27 ceiling profile as racks.

Before installing the guide profiles, a special sealing tape should be glued on them to protect the sound of metal frames. It can be self-adhesive tape "Dichtungsbant" 60 mm wide and 3 mm thick, or any other fine-pored polymer film.

The profiles are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels, the installation step of the dowels is 60 cm.The ceiling guide profile is produced with ready-made holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and in increments of 25 cm. , in other cases, an installation step of the racks of 60 cm is allowed (fig. 18). To improve sound insulation, pieces of sealing tape are placed between the brackets and the wall or other supporting structure.

Rice. 18. GKL layout when facing

After that, the ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers. The protruding ends of the suspensions are bent. The correctness of the installation of the ceiling profile must be checked with a level. The length of the uprights from the ceiling profile should be 3 ... 5 mm less than the distance between the upper and lower guide profiles. After installing the frame, gypsum boards are attached to it using self-tapping piercing screws with a length of at least 25 mm. Fastening work must be carried out from the corner of the gypsum board in two mutually perpendicular directions with a step of no more than 25 cm, while avoiding deformation of the sheet. The screws should be spaced from the edge of the sheet at the distances indicated on rice. 19.

Rice. 19. Correct fastening of the gypsum board to the rack

Sheets are mounted vertically. If the height of the premises exceeds the length of the sheet, then in the places of horizontal end drains, horizontal sections of the guide profile are installed. The end joints of the sheets must be displaced vertically by at least 40 cm. The ends of the gypsum board must be processed with a roughing plane with a cutting blade angle of 30 ° to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness. Docking of the gypsum board is performed staggered. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks at the junction, it is not allowed to join sheets on the racks of door or window openings, and in the joints of the sheets above the openings, additional intermediate profiles are installed (fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Wall cladding above openings

There should be a gap of 10 ... 15 mm between the floor and the gypsum board. A separating tape is glued between the upper edge of the sheets on the lower surface of the concrete floor and a gap of at least 5 mm is left. The gap is filled with putty, the protruding edges of the tape are cut off before the "finishing" finish (fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Pairing wall cladding with overlapping

To protect the outer corner from damage, it is better to use the version with the attachment of the protective perforated corner PU 31? 31 (fig. 22), which is putty when finished. In the places of conjugation with door frames, the sheets should adjoin them flush and, during the final finishing, be closed with a casing.

Rice. 22. Protection of the outer corner with a corner profile

Sealing of butt joints and the surface of the gypsum board is carried out according to the previously described technology for the frameless cladding method. Horizontal end seams are made without a reinforcing tape with a high-strength filler "Uniflot" or "Fugenfüller GV", it is possible to replace them with similar fillers, but with the obligatory preparation of the seam. The technology for their implementation is as follows: the edges of the cut sheets are cleaned with a roughing plane, the chamfers are removed with an edge plane, all the joining edges are sanded with sandpaper. The fixing screws must be at least 1 mm deep into the drywall. Seams are treated with a primer and putty after drying. If necessary, an insulating material is placed in the frame cavity, after which the frame is sheathed with sheets. In cases where engineering communications are laid along the walls, another set of guide profiles PN 50 (65; 75; 100) × 40 is used and in a pair for each of them the corresponding rack-mount profile PS 50 (65; 75; 100) × 50 is used. This type of cladding resembles a false wall. (fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Fastening rack profiles along communications

The technology for the preparatory work and installation of the facings is the same as for the above structure. The only difference is that during installation there is no fastening of the rack profile to the wall with a height of the surface to be faced up to 4.2 m. With a higher height, fastening of the racks to the wall is required in increments of at least 1.5 m.

GVL is mounted using special screws with a sharper conical head and countersink strips with a pitch of no more than 30 cm.

During the operation of the cladding, it becomes necessary to attach various attachments or interior items to them, which often stops customers in making decisions with wall cladding or making partitions from plasterboard sheets.

Rice. 24. Hooks for fastening in plasterboard partitions

In this case, a number of technical measures are envisaged. Depending on the weight of the load (for example, washbasins, kitchen cabinets, etc.), during the installation of the frame, jumpers from the rack-mount profile are installed, fixed to the frame, and the hinged interior elements are attached to the latter. Fastening of objects weighing up to 30 kg per 1 running meter of the wall can be performed anywhere in the plasterboard using special metal dowels. Light loads, such as cornices or shelves with a load not exceeding 15 kg, are hung directly on gypsum plasterboards using special anchoring products, plastic or metal dowels with a diameter of 6 ... 8 mm or hooks (fig. 24).

From the book Complete apartment renovation. How a woman can handle a renovation the author Shtukina Lyudmila Vasilievna

Tile wall cladding techniques Question. What are the ways of laying tiles? Wall cladding with ceramic tiles starts from the bottom, laying the tiles in horizontal rows. There are several ways of laying tiles: in a staggered manner, when in each next

From the book Drywall: Step by Step the author Pustovoitov Vadim Nikolaevich

From the book Proper Floor-to-Ceiling Repair: A Handbook the author Onishchenko Vladimir

From the book Tile work with your own hands the author Antonov Igor Viktorovich

Features of "envelope" cladding "envelope" cladding is a specific type of floor cladding, which is used in rooms where the floor is intentionally made with a slope for water drainage. In the vast majority of cases, we are talking about showers. Especially should

From the book Home Master the author Onishchenko Vladimir

Forms of tiles for wall cladding For wall cladding, straight and curved tiles are produced. Distinguish between ordinary tiles, frieze, or rectangular belt, and husk, or corner tiles. Ordinary tiles are ordinary flat tiles intended for cladding

From the book Warming and waterproofing houses and apartments the author Kolosov Evgeny Viktorovich

The order of wall cladding 1. Preparation of the base and tiles. The technology for preparing the base and tiles for wall cladding is described in the corresponding sections of the second chapter. Here, we just recall that the tiles are sorted by size and pattern and then laid out dry,

From the book All About Tile [DIY Laying] author Nikitko Ivan

Features of wall cladding by seam-to-seam method When facing seam to seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are arranged one after the other without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form uniform horizontal and vertical

From the author's book

Features of wall cladding in a sprawling manner When cladding sprawl, the tiles of the next row are displaced relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. The seams of even rows form their intermittent

From the author's book

Features of diagonal cladding With diagonal cladding, the tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45 ° (Fig. 12). Figure 12. Diagonal cladding When marking, the base is divided as follows

From the author's book

Features of a seamless veneer In a seamless veneer, the tiles are adjacent to each other. This method is used when the cladding is made of corrugated or patterned tiles. To make the seam as less noticeable as possible, the edges of the tiles are sometimes even grinded. How

From the author's book

Repair of surfaces lined with dry plaster sheets The main disadvantage of surfaces lined with dry plaster sheets is that between them and the surface there is an empty space with a thickness of 20-30 mm or more. Because of this, the sheets in places

From the author's book

Using drywall to level the floor and walls Screed and plastering are by no means the only way to prepare the substrate for laying ceramic tiles. Another very common method, which is gradually increasing in popularity,

Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most demanded among building and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These include its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in a variety of rooms, a relatively small weight and affordable cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is available not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice master. Wall decoration with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible with different adhesives and on surfaces built from different materials. The advantages of such a fastening in comparison with the frame method are that the decrease in the area of ​​the room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the crate, and the installation work itself is quite fast and can be done on our own.

The main methods of mounting drywall on a wall surface

To appreciate the advantage of frameless drywall installation, you can still briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

In fairness, it should be noted that sometimes it is impossible to do without installing a frame when installing drywall, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering the methods of installing the material.

So, there are two main technologies for fixing drywall sheets to the wall in order to align it:

1. Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of a metal profile or a wooden bar. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and the insulation material is installed in the frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to align with plaster layers.
2. Fixing the sheets to the wall using self-tapping screws and mounting foam or on an adhesive made on a gypsum base. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if it is necessary to sheathe not only a wooden wall, but also surfaces derived from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum is more often used to level a concrete or brick wall. However, it should be noted immediately that the frameless method of fastening drywall should be used only when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

In this publication, the nuances of only frameless drywall fixing will be considered.

Required materials and tools

Set of tools

To level the walls with drywall using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if the frame was fixed to the wall. The list of everything you need consists of the following items:

1. A plumb line, a building level and, as a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
2. An electric jigsaw or a sharp utility knife - for cutting drywall.
3. Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
4. A wide, medium and narrow trowel, and possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the mortar.
5. Construction trowel - for processing the putty surface.
6. Roller and brush - for treating walls with a primer.
7. Rubber mallet - for adjusting drywall sheets glued to the wall.
8. Electric drill and mixer attachment - for mixing the solution.
9. In some cases, it will be required - for additional fixing with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required for the preparation of the wall surface and for the high-quality installation of drywall:

1. Priming solution with antiseptic additives.
2. Plaster-based putty mixture, base and finishing.
3. Dry building mixture - drywall glue, or polyurethane foam.
4. Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
5. Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting the drywall sheets. The size of the fasteners will depend on the evenness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
6. For one of the alignment technologies, pieces of foam rubber will be required - this will be discussed in due course.

Some materials are described in more detail.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also gypsum plasterboards for various purposes - this is a simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

1. Ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard or, according to Knauf's proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
2. Moisture resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-H2) can be used to level the walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After processing such a surface, ceramic tiles will perfectly fit on it.
3. Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used to decorate walls around a fireplace, stoves, chimneys.
4. Fire and moisture resistant drywall (GKLVO or GSP-DFH2) is well suited for wall decoration in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic rooms.

Here you can also briefly say about, which does not require much effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp clerical knife at hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

1. The sheet is laid on a solid base - it can be a large table, a floor, or several stools, set side by side at some distance from each other.
2. Then, using a tape measure or a ruler, the sheet is marked out, the necessary lines are drawn with a simple pencil.
3. The next step along the drawn line, also along the ruler, is carried out with a knife, which should cut the top layer of cardboard.
4. The sheet is pushed to the edge of the hard surface and laid on it along the notch line.
5. Then, on the edge of the drywall, which goes beyond the base, a pressure is made, which will provoke a break in the sheet along the cut line.
6. The last step is to cut the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.