Lay the floor on reinforced concrete slabs. Installation of modern wooden floors in residential buildings

Building a private house is a complex multi-stage process that takes a lot of time. And if you are not a professional, then it is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself. After all, one cannot do without special knowledge. But some steps can still be done by hand. For example, flooring. We won't say it's easy, but it's possible. So let's look at how to make a floor with your own hands in a private house.

There are three designs of the floor base, on which the finishing material will be laid:

By concrete slab overlap.
On the floor beams.
Ground concrete floor.

Floor on slab

In fact, a reinforced concrete multi-hollow slab is already a finished floor. It is laid on the basement of the foundation or on the walls of the building, which are poured with a reinforcing frame. It turns out a small but solid foundation right on the walls.

Such a plate, manufactured at the factory, goes through several stages of control, so its strength characteristics meet all the necessary standards. But the evenness of the surface leaves much to be desired. But this is not a problem, because such a concrete floor is exposed to additional processing, insulation and decoration. So the evenness of the surface will eventually have maximum parameters.

By technology construction works floor slab installation is the fastest process. To do this, you need a crane, which in a few minutes will install this reinforced concrete product anywhere in the building. But the device does not end there.

What else needs to be done with the floor slab?

First, it is necessary to seal the joints between the plates. To do this, they are poured with concrete mortar. To prevent the joint from leaking, a formwork is installed on its lower side. It could be plain board, which is supported from below by a rack or support. The same board can be pulled with a wire to the bottom plane of the slab, fixed to a pipe or other metal profile located on top of the slab across the joint.

Secondly, a rolled waterproofing material is laid. Please note that multi-lane installation must meet certain requirements:

All strips are overlapped with edges offset up to 15 centimeters.
To completely seal the layer, the edges of the material are sealed with self-adhesive tape, for example, construction tape.
The waterproofing layer is applied to the walls up to the level of laying the finishing floor covering.

Thirdly, if you want the floor to meet the requirements of comfortable living, then on the first floor of the building it must be insulated. True, today many experts are of the opinion that the floor on any floor should be insulated. Therefore, we lay heat-insulating material.

The modern market offers a huge selection of heaters, so finding something you need specifically for your floor will not be difficult. There are traditional inexpensive materials on the market, as well as novelties with excellent qualities and properties. Most often, expanded clay is poured onto the floor or slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid. Manufacturers of mineral wool began to produce dense products in mats that are not inferior in performance to either expanded clay or foam.

Fourthly, another layer of waterproofing is installed. Use the same material as in the first layer, and using the same technology.

Fifthly, a screed is poured or installed. A little more about this.

Features of creating a screed

How to make a floor screed

There are three types of ties:

Usual wet on the basis of cement-sand mortar.
Semi-dry from ready construction mixes.
Dry based on durable tile materials - plywood, GVL, chipboard.

All options are used equally often, and the choice should be based on the time you need to meet. If it is tight, then the best option is a dry screed. If there is enough time, then you can take any other variety.

Attention! To increase the strength of a wet or semi-dry screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement or wire in its body. It is important here that the frame is in the body of the screed, and not on its border.

The complexity of laying the screed layer lies in the fact that it must be accurately set and built in one horizontal plane. If you do not know some of the nuances, then the error can be very large. Therefore, we advise you to read the articles on our website, where step-by-step instruction pouring or installing screed on the floor.

This is how the floor construction scheme looks like on a concrete floor slab. Many private developers who have tried different ways of arranging the floor say that this option is the easiest and most convenient. And it does not matter which screed will be used to level the surface of the plate.

Floor on floor beams

This option is not uncommon at construction sites in private housing construction. But not everyone can build such a structure. First of all, because the floor on the floor beams can be made only by installing additional elements in the form of a lag. It is not possible to lay out the sexual base in another way. And most importantly, these logs will have to be exposed in order to achieve a flat surface.

Consider the scheme of such work. Usually, large-section wooden beams are used as floor beams. You can use metal profiles and concrete beams, but both of these options are expensive, and it is much more difficult to attach the lag structure to metal and concrete. Therefore, wooden beams are the best option. They are laid on the basement of the foundation with a mandatory lining of waterproofing material - a piece of roofing material or roofing felts. Align wooden beams in the plane is not necessary, and this is inconvenient, because the weight of each element is quite large. Leveling the floor is carried out with lags.

There are logs on the beams. It can be all the same wooden beams of small section or boards laid on the end. The lag is fastened to the beams either with self-tapping screws or with special metal corners. The second option is used more often because it is more reliable. But that's not all. Metal mounting brackets allow you to raise or lower the joists, thereby simplifying the process of leveling the subfloor.

How to level the floor along the lags

Floor device on logs

The alignment scheme is quite simple. First, in the same plane and exactly horizontally, two logs are set on opposite sides near the walls. We remind you that this can be done using fixing metal corners. But under the logs you still have to install linings - wooden, plastic or metal plates.

The evenness of each log must be checked by the building level. And in order to determine the location of two lags in the same plane, a rule or a long rail is installed on them, and it is this that is checked for horizontality. Now 3–4 rows of threads are stretched between the lags so that they do not sag, and intermediate structural elements are placed along them.

Attention! The height of the lag is chosen according to zero level, which is previously applied to the walls in the form of a contour around the perimeter of the room.

flooring

Usually on the logs equip the floor of the boards. This is a traditional option that has several advantages:

The wooden floor is easily insulated. To do this, longitudinal slats are nailed along the lower edges of the log, along which a draft floor is installed. Then a vapor barrier is laid, and on top of it - a heater, which is closed with a waterproofing roll material, for example, with a plastic film.
In such a design, communication systems and networks can be laid.
It is possible to mount heating system"warm floor".

The plank floor is beautiful and warm cover, which is not necessary to decorate with other finishing material. You can simply paint it or apply a colorless varnish, which will only emphasize the beauty of the natural component of the flooring.

Other options for the floor on the beams

Plank floors of the first floor can be laid on posts

Sometimes beams are not used as a support for logs. The lag structure itself is a support for the sexual base. If the room of the house is small, then the logs are installed with their ends directly on the foundation, and this is enough to withstand heavy loads. If the room has a decent size, then additional intermediate supports in the form of columns will have to be installed under the logs. They can be built of brick, stone, concrete or finished products- reinforced concrete columns, metal pipe and other metal profiles. Choose the easiest and cheap option, for example, brick posts.

Pay attention to a few very important points:

The support posts should be located at such a distance from each other that the loads on the logs are evenly distributed - 40–50 centimeters is enough. Although everything will depend on the section of the log used. The larger it is, the less often you can install supports. So the distance between them can reach up to 80 centimeters.
The upper planes of the posts must be horizontal and in the same plane.
A small foundation must be poured under each support.
A waterproofing material is laid on the upper plane of each pillar.

Ground floor

Floor installation in a private house

This option for constructing a floor in a private house can be considered a subspecies of installation on a floor slab, because the result will be a concrete base. But the work itself is significantly different from the first version. They are more labor-intensive, they use a large number of different building materials, in addition, the construction of the sexual base itself is a multilayer cake.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

First, soft soil is removed to a depth of half a meter. The bottom of the pit must be rammed, and a pillow of sand and gravel is poured on it. These two materials can be replaced with gravel. Please note that each layer of backfill must be rammed, and sand can be watered.
Waterproofing material is laid. The technology is the same as in other processes.
Expanded clay or perlite is poured as a heater.
A reinforcing frame made of welded metal mesh is installed. It is important that the frame is in the body of the screed, so raise it above the level of the laid materials.
Poured concrete mortar, which will subsequently be the basis of the floor. Filling the solution must be given Special attention, because a flat and durable floor is a guarantee of the quality of the entire base. On such a floor, it will be possible to immediately lay the finish, or you can install a lag structure. By the way, the warm floor is also perfectly mounted on it.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out how to make a floor. In our case, options for constructing the base without finishing processes were considered. After all, it is on these works that private developers have the most questions. Because, firstly, it is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. And, secondly, it is much easier to finish the floor with any floor covering. So choose the construction option, take into account our recommendations and get to work.

Ruslan Vasiliev

One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system - not the finishing decorative coating, but the whole "pie", consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors that differ in the raw material base, manufacturing method and characteristics. Everyone who is faced with a construction or major reconstruction makes a choice in favor of one of the systems, based on their capabilities, preferences and building parameters. It is convenient that some designs involve the simultaneous creation of a contour floor heating- sole or additional. Consider the main floor systems in demand among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal:

how to make floors;
how to make floors along the lags;
how to make floors on floor slabs.

Floors on the ground

Monolithic floor - a multi-layer structure, arranged directly on the ground inside the perimeter of the foundation, a type of concrete screed.

The system consists of the following layers:

Packed soil- it needs to be aligned. Depending on the level, the ground is sprinkled or extra centimeters are removed. The more carefully the surface is rammed and leveled, the stronger and more reliable the screed will be.

bedding- most often used sand. If a thick layer is needed due to the height of the “pie”, it is recommended to backfill in several approaches with tamping of each layer (10-15 cm each). In order to level and compact the soil and bedding as much as possible, a layer of coarse gravel is poured and compacted over the sand. It is also possible to use a common layer of ASG instead of separate layers of sand and crushed stone, tamping is required regardless of the type of backfill. Vibrating plate, in several approaches with a change in direction of movement, - best friend floors on the ground.

Rough coupler- a layer of concrete a few centimeters without reinforcement. Suitable for high pressure ground water and when creating in-depth structures - in basements, basement floors. Fuse over the screed bituminous waterproofing which seals the surface and requires a level, rigid base. If we are talking about ordinary floors on the ground and there are no problems with waterlogging, this layer is dispensed with.

Waterproofing- cuts off moisture that will come from below, are used various materials, but in most cases it is a thick film (from 150 microns), overlapped with a margin (15-20 cm), in one or two layers. The joints are glued with adhesive tape for tightness, 20 cm of film is put on the walls.

insulation- for the insulation of the floor, slab materials (PSB-25 or EPPS, with a thickness of 100 mm or more) are used, which are laid end-to-end over the waterproofing. When using extruded polystyrene foam, another layer of film is needed on top to prevent direct contact with the cement mortar. Styrofoam is not afraid of such a neighborhood.

Screed- the thickness of the concrete layer and the brand of mortar used are calculated based on the expected loads, on average it is 50 mm. The screed is reinforced with a metal mesh with a thickness of 4 mm. The thicker the screed layer and the greater the expected loads, the thicker the mesh should be. In order for the concrete layer protecting the filling from external influences to be uniform, special plastic coasters or hand tools. To maintain the fill level, beacons are used, installed at an equal distance.

With a standard pie, there are two ways to create a floor on the ground - with the union of the slab and the foundation (rigid bond) and through the damper tape (floating screed), you can learn more about the damper tape from the material. In the first case, the design turns out to be dependent on the possible shrinkage of the foundation, in the second the screed lives its own life and is not subject to deformation.

The advantages of floors on the ground include their energy efficiency - they accumulate heat, versatility - suitable for various types of soil, durability - you can forget about a properly made screed for many years. It is also attractive for owners of private houses to immediately fill the floor heating circuit - water or electric - into the screed. Plus, for most finishing materials the resulting slab will be the optimal base with minimal or no finishing, if you try and maintain the level. For a concrete base - the best option.

But it was not without its drawbacks - there is a large laboriousness of the process (one of the forum users earned disc protrusion without calculating his own strength), and the inability to conduct communications in the ground, and the rise in price square meter with large volumes of backfill. This is one of the most popular types of floor, mastered by the portal participants.

Staryjdub Member FORUMHOUSE

Region of residence - Stary Oskol, Belgorod region;
Foundation type - TISe;
Type of walls and number of floors - walls made of gas silicate on mortar, plastered from the inside, not yet insulated from the outside - thickness 300 mm;
Floor construction on the ground (in layers) - soil, sand, polyethylene, roofing felt, concrete, XPS (2 layers of 25 mm each), warm floor: 50 mm screed with polypropylene fiber, 10 mm finishing screed, special substrate for TP, finishing - laminate 8 mm.

The screed is floating, we have been living with such a floor for several years, no problems or minuses have been noticed, everything suits.

Another FORUMHOUSE user chose ground flooring as the best heat-saving option.

chicken-A Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow

House with a total area of 135 m², operating all year round in the mode of residence on short trips - a couple of weeks in it and the same amount - in the city. Partly due to the floors on the ground, which do not break the thermal contact of the internal volume of the house with a huge earthen heat accumulator, I spend very little on heating. True, other applied methods of saving on heating help me here.

And this craftsman built a concrete base that has served faithfully for two decades.

motiv Member FORUMHOUSE

Samara Region;
A mixture of tape and pile foundation(grillage not hanging);
A house of one and a half floors, well masonry with expanded clay inside, two bricks thick;
The house is about twenty years old;
The floor on the ground is just there, and I don’t remember any problems with it. You can postpone the erection of the floor to a later stage during construction.

Floors on joists

Beam ceiling, as opposed to a monolithic concrete slab. When creating floors along the lags, a “lattice” of longitudinal elements is obtained at the base - wooden, metal or reinforced concrete beams.

In one-story and frame private housing construction, wooden beams or logs are more in demand - they can withstand heavy loads, their laying does not require special time costs and wet processes. Required thickness beams are calculated based on the expected loads, the optimal indicator is 1/24 of the length. Coniferous wood is used for the beams, as it is more resistant to external influences, humidity should not exceed 14%. Before use, it must be treated with special antiseptic compounds - to prevent decay and damage by pests and microorganisms.

Depending on the type of foundation, the beams are installed in special grooves (left during pouring or masonry, cut out in wooden bases) or stacked on top. If the beams are in contact with metal, concrete or brick, it is necessary to make additional waterproofing at the junction (resin, roofing material, film).

sample pie beam ceiling consists of the following layers:

floor beams- the step between the elements depends on the expected loads and the length of the span, on average - 1 m.

Logs (crate) – wooden beam laid perpendicular to the beams, the greater the distance between the beams, the more powerful the logs should be. To maintain the level with curved beams, use wooden spacers, the distance from the wall to the log is 20 cm. When calculating the step, this nuance is taken into account. When the distance between the beams is less than 80 cm, you can immediately mount the subfloor, without a log.

Draft floor- it is necessary for laying insulation, it is laid between the logs or between the beams, with a small step. As fasteners, cranial bars (beams with a smaller section) are used, attached to beams or logs. The flooring of the boards on the bars is carried out without the use of fasteners, the boards are placed close, but lie freely.

Moisture protection- protects the insulation from absorbing moisture from the subfloor, but should not retain steam, so ordinary film is not suitable. You can refuse waterproofing if the subfloor is dry and the groundwater level is low.

insulation- most often used slab or roll materials: stone wool, PSB, EPS or backfill materials ecowool type.

vapor barrier- it could be special membrane or ordinary polyethylene film.

ventilation gap- when designing the ceiling, it is recommended to choose logs that will be slightly higher than the insulation layer - there will automatically be a gap for ventilation. If this was not done, then after laying the insulation, a timber is stuffed, which will give the desired distance.

Whether to lay another layer of the subfloor after the insulation depends on the future finish coating - plank or slab varieties are self-supporting, for linoleum and carpet you will have to spend money on the base layer.

To the merits of such floor system includes the speed of erection, reduced load on the foundation, the absence of heavy physical activity in the manufacture (no need to drag tons of sand and gravel, pour cubic meters of concrete).

Among the shortcomings, they note the need for effective ventilation of the underground, a lower load limit, the fire hazard of wood and less durability compared to concrete. To make underfloor water heating, you will need to spend additional funds on the screed or use alternative systems, etc. But floors of this type are chosen by many developers, including portal participants, modifying a typical pie to fit their parameters.

kolyaseg Member of FORUMHOUSE

I sewed an inch board 15 cm wide at the bottom, 7-8 cm apart, on top of the resulting lattice I put a fiberglass mesh for facade plaster and there is already a heater on it - three overlapping mats, it turned out 15 cm. On top of the logs and the insulation of the bed Izospan B. Next, I will also stuff a 100x50 mm board across the log, 24 cm apart. OSB-12 or 15 are already on the boards.

fiberglass mesh kolyaseg replaced the waterproofing film, believing that it would more reliably keep the insulation from destruction, taking into account the gaps in the subfloor.

Mishgun21 Member FORUMHOUSE

Log cabin of a bath / house from a log 23 cm, 6x6 meters (with attic floor), the distance between the lags is different - from 1 m to 1.5 meters. The logs are made of logs, the log house stands on screw piles. The floor pie is like this:

Bar forty;
On it is a rough floor;
From above, a hydro-windproof membrane, with a smooth side to the subfloor (so that moisture does not pass into the insulation), rough - to the heater, so that moisture comes out of it;
Insulation - 150 mm of basalt wool, I will increase the beams with a fifty-fifty bar;
I cover everything with vapor barrier;
Counter-lattice, to create a ventilation gap (bar 50x25 mm);
Batten.

Floor installation on floor slabs

Like the floors on the ground - a beamless ceiling, with the difference that the reinforced concrete slab is not poured on the spot, but is purchased ready-made.

Floor slabs on the floor - a popular option for houses with a full ground floor or basement when the slab is also the ceiling of the lower level. Unlike the floor on the ground and the floor on the logs, it is necessary to involve construction equipment, since it is impossible to lay even the lightest slab by hand. But in terms of speed, slab overlapping devices outperform all other options.

Floor slabs are manufactured industrially in two categories - single-layer solid and multi-hollow. The first ones are a reinforced monolith, the second ones have through rounded holes (channels) into which it is convenient to hide communications. In private construction, mostly hollow-core slabs are used. Their thickness is 220 mm, they are lighter than solid ones, have low thermal conductivity and better isolate sound. At standard thickness boards can withstand different loads, depending on the brand of concrete and parameters reinforcing cage. The length varies from 2.4 meters to 6.8 meters, width - from 1.2 to 1.5 meters, weight - from 0.9 to 2.5 tons.

Floor on floor slabs in a private house.

How to make a floor in a private house on floor slabs

The work on laying the plates is carried out in several stages:

Foundation preparation- the foundation for the slabs must be perfectly flat. If during pouring slight differences (up to 5 cm) are obtained, they are leveled with a cement-sand screed. In areas with a slope, it may be necessary to pour a concrete armored belt or brickwork.

Plate preparation- before laying, the channels at the ends are sealed with a heater (pushed inward) and cement mortar(blurred).

support- how much the slab should rest on the base depends on its type: the overlap on brickwork is from 125 mm, on concrete - from 60 mm, the long side of the slab does not rest on the foundation. If the slabs laid side by side have lugs, they are connected to each other (welded with reinforcement), if the slabs are without lugs, after removing the chalk (laying device), they are shifted close. At the points of contact between the slab and the base, a layer of cement mortar (M100) is laid - 2 cm, a reinforcing bar (10-12 mm thick) laid in the center of the seam will help prevent extrusion. Laying on a dry base is also possible, but this is not the case when it makes sense to save money. If the slab is both the base of the floor and the ceiling of the lower room, it is laid with the smooth part down to simplify the finishing later.

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises. first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private house can be done in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

The most popular and comfortable floor for the house has always been considered wooden, since wood, unlike concrete, is a warm material in itself.
Concrete pavements are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with a wooden floor.
Raised or floating floors were not as popular with homeowners in the past, but in Lately many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is simple in the device, and it can be done in just one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made of beams laid on a concrete base, supporting pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, narrow corridor or small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Floors on pillars

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coverage. The lag system, arranged only on supporting pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house for installation brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the column should be, the greater its width and thickness.
Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug pits, then it is filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out in good faith.
Red brick pillars are laid on a compacted pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm in cross section. The erected pillars are leveled, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded studs are embedded or anchors are installed, on which floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then the supporting pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future premises, but in this case massive beams must be laid on them.
After the poles are ready, a waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.
Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting studs will pass.
Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled with wooden lining boards. When the floor base is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with nails, and the bars themselves also need to be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs are too high, it is cut off with a grinder.
It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and additionally insulate the floors.
In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay the floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wooden coating a distance of no more than ten centimeters.

Draft floor

The draft floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a particular method will depend on the material of insulation.

If slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are smeared with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors are insulated mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. A heater is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams with a stapler and staples.

Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a good example of subfloor installation

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this. focusing on which you can make a work plan.

The soil in the underground must be well tamped, and a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, should be placed on it, and then tamped again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing material, is laid on a compacted pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
For waterproofing, lay bricks on the mortar or concrete blocks, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (the standard width of the insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
On bricks, and better - on concrete blocks, wooden beams are installed, leveled, and fixed with a corner.
Between the laid beams, for more insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
On top of the heater, cash agi fix the vapor barrier film.
Then the floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into its side part.
The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When laying the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you can not save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

First on concrete pavement a preliminary marking of the location of the lag is done. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. The markup is done by beating the line with color.
Further, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs with clamps are installed, located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs embedded in the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
Nuts are screwed on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next steps are the installation of a subfloor, insulation and flooring of a clean floor.

Fastening the log directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

Stripes are beaten off on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Further using anchor fastening logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. At the same time, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be nice to put thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
All over the wall strips cut off from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, on the covered polyethylene are laid insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

From above, be sure to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

Next is laid batten or thick plywood, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and proceed to its device after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If nessesary, upper layer soil is selected in order to arrange a pillow of sand in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It must be well tamped, pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
Next suit rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam plastic chips to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be kneaded not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished frozen rough screed, you need to spread waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For her, you can take roofing material or ordinary thick polyethylene film- the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
On top of the insulation is installed metal reinforcing mesh, and then a finishing screed is poured, into which you can also add insulation material. In order for the screed to be even, and there were no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to the construction beacon level.

If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay linoleum laminate or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents the organization of the "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated in laying floors with a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why it has been used more and more in recent years.

The main thing in its laying is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of work, bulk floors will last a long time.

Loose mix leveling

In order for the floors to keep their shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads are installed from the boards.
On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but must be moved very carefully over the surface. Evenness of laying of sheets during all work is controlled by means of level.
On the gypsum fiber the sheets have folds, with the help of which they are interconnected when laying them on a dry screed.
Sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for floor gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer, so that they tightly adjoin each other and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The stacked top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c with glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
Right along the line doorways it is not recommended to join sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are arranged in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor, before laying decorative coating treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of work performance, such technology under any circumstances is many times greater than any other.

At first glance, the design of the floor on concrete base is nothing complicated.

However, for right technology installation, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multilayer structural element of the house, which is subjected to numerous loads and environmental influences, therefore, the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct arrangement of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with building requirements and standards. They are characterized design features all elements.

In addition, they must meet the standard requirements specific to this situation: be durable, moisture resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can distinguish a number of norms that are characteristic of this situation.

Characteristic	Name, technical condition	Short description
GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry construction floor mix cement-based	Properties and compositions cement mixture. floor use
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Mortar Cement	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for pouring floors
GOST 7473 - 94	concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of a concrete-based mixture
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork foundation and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 - 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure without reinforcement prestressing	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	floors	Structural floor solution, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out in accordance with the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all the established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

Smooth and solid foundation, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
According to sanitary and epidemiological standards, the base will be created harmless to humans and providing good conditions for living.
The operational standard characterizes the ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and flooring are called separate

A complete analysis of the element allows you to select several categories of floors, divided by purpose. These are industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several other distinguishing features, first of all, the division into types: monolithic, rolled and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above the heated room, floor construction on the ground, on the interfloor ceiling.

Relatively sanitary standards There are 3 types of floor installation:

single-layer, made of a material corresponding to GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
separate structure, made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and top coat;
hollow, is carried out along the logs (cuts) with the laying of heat and sound insulation between them.

To understand how to make a good floor, subject to numerous requirements, is possible only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

Faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that the concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main of which is immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete does not creak from time to time, has a sufficiently strong surface, which is practically not afraid of mechanical stress.

Concrete is not susceptible to loads and durable

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also on top. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated using modern technology.

Shouldn't exalt concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of the constantly cold floor only after installation additional source its heating (warm floor). Based on this, the most the best option there will be laying directly on the concrete tiles in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises, living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

Boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden logs.

To lay a tree on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them rationally differs from the previous one, which allows us to speak of different benefits and shortcomings.

The methods are as follows:

boards are glued to the concrete base;
stacked on wooden logs;
laid on plywood sheets.

All methods of flooring on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, cavities are filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After that, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications passing under the floor. These can be elements of underfloor heating, a sewerage pipeline, a water supply system, an electric, television or Internet cable.

Incisions can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of more than 50 m2, it is desirable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to cover the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on the wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can start laying the floor.

The moisture content of the base plate must not exceed 4%.

gluing

Glue a wide board with a polyurethane compound

Glued floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete substrates. For this, they are used different types compositions that differ depending on the type of board.

Wide solid is glued with a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. A narrow solid or engineered board is fixed to a two-component polyurethane composition.

The order of work is as follows:

Boards are cut to size.
The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, the distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3 - 4 boards are superimposed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, they should be pressed tightly against each other, this can be done with a tie-down strap or wedges.
After checking the stacked row, the procedure is performed in the previously described way. For more information on how to glue the finishing material to the floor, see this video:

The distance between the edge board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

Logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

Such a device involves the installation of boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed on a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the beam on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To determine this value yourself, you can be guided by the table below.

The cross section of the log in this situation does not play a role, since their installation is carried out on a solid surface.

Boards are fixed with screws

Only after all calculations are completed, and the material is purchased and cut into the right size, you can proceed with self-assembly.

At the same time, do not forget to process all wooden elements design with an antiseptic that protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The design feature lies in the greater cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor, hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

For laying a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16 - 20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. Purchased plates are cut into small strips 50 - 80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed on the dowel nails. After installation, the surface is carefully polished and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the possibility of leveling a surface with height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to consider several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards located on top. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using a log is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes the opinions of ignorant people are heard that arranging a floor on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

A wide selection of modern building and finishing materials allows you to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. For information on how to properly mount plywood sheets on logs, see this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is the exact observance of technological requirements and standards related to the various characteristic properties of the building materials used to perform the work.