Polymer floors: advantages and disadvantages. Method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials Do-it-yourself polymer coating for a concrete floor

Recently, new types of floor coverings have appeared on store shelves. An innovative discovery was the emergence of a polymer self-leveling floor, which appeared relatively recently on the market of building and finishing materials.

His path began with application in industrial premises, where heightened dynamic loads are used.

But also, they are often used where aesthetic appearance and environmental friendliness is required, this is the food production sector, sanatoriums and so on. This kind flooring poured, after hardening, it becomes an absolutely flat surface and has no seams.

It looks like linoleum, so sometimes a bulk polymer floor is called "liquid linoleum". Due to its phenomenal properties, beauty and practicality, it received wide use not only in industry, but also in general household consumption.

Types and classification of self-leveling floors

The most basic classification is by composition, and so they are divided into:

One of the advantages, you can carry out work in cold weather, not susceptible to low temperatures... There are also disadvantages, poor chemical resistance active substances, and high cost.

Polyurethane floors- shows resistance to everyday household damage. They are used in unusual cases, when flexibility and elasticity with a combination of strength come first.

Due to its elasticity, it is able to withstand any dynamic influences, without cracking and deformation. Also resistant to chemical damage.

In industrial buildings, the first types of self-leveling floors are usually used. Subsequent types of polymer self-leveling floor are widely used for decoration of residential premises.

The following type of classification by layer thickness:

There is also a classification, depending on the properties:

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Like all building materials, self-leveling floor has its own advantages:

But, like all materials, they have their drawbacks:

Very high cost
Due to all its positive properties, it is very difficult to dismantle a self-leveling finishing polymer floor; the use of specialized equipment will be required.

Preparation for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

As with any floor covering, surface preparation, tool preparation, preparation ready mix.

We start with surface preparation. We remove garbage, vacuum. We carry out a visual inspection for defects, chips, cracks, height differences.

We eliminate defects, in the presence of minor defects, we use a putty, in the presence of rough irregularities, we use a floor screed. We wait until everything dries up.

In the process of mixing, an endothermic reaction occurs, you should be careful and careful. We take a mixer or a drill attachment and mix the components, after which we pour the finished mixture onto the prepared surface.

Polymer floor pouring technology

The pouring process consists of three stages:

Stage - Preliminary or base layer.
Stage - Finishing layer.
Stage - Lacquer coating.

And so we start by filling the preliminary layer. The pouring process is best done together, one prepares the polymer mixture, the second smoothes it, the finished solution removes air.

In most cases, an epoxy polymer mixture is used as a sub-floor, with the addition of quartz sand or granite sand. Pouring the mortar usually starts from the far corner, it is recommended to pour in stripes.

For a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to use beacons that are pre-set using a level. Ready solution poured onto the prepared surface, spread evenly with a rule or a metal spatula.

Afterwards, air bubbles that form when the components are mixed are removed with an aeration roller. Rope casting is also possible. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1-2 mm. Drying time is approximately one day.

Once the subcoat is completely dry, you can proceed with the fine-to-finish casting. It is important to wash the instrument thoroughly after each use to avoid agitation.

At your discretion, the use of decorative elements is possible. As elements, coins of different denominations, buttons different forms and sizes, small river stones, seashells and much more.

It is also possible to use stencils, landscapes and drawings painted with paints. And recently, the use of 3D films. The process of pouring a finishing layer is no different from the process of pouring a preliminary layer.

After finish coating will dry completely, apply a special varnish... That's all the floor is ready after the varnish dries. Professionals warn that drafts and direct sunlight do not favorably affect the drying process of the flooded floor.

And it is also required to clearly maintain the time between pouring each layer. When pouring a floor with your own hands, we recommend that you watch video lessons on how to properly install a polymer self-leveling floor.

Prices for polymer bulk floors

The price will be influenced by manufacturer, brand, region and place of purchase.

Now we will consider the average cost of one kilogram of the mixture:

Polyurethane mixture - 230-260 rubles.
Epoxy mixture - 250-280 rubles.
Methyl methacrylate mixture - 340-380 rubles.
Cement-based mixture - 310-340 rubles.

It is important to know what the price is for square meter polymer self-leveling floor, consists of the price of a primer, a preliminary layer, a finishing layer, and if required, the price of decorative elements and varnish. And the thickness of the layer also affects the cost.

On average, the price for 1 sq.m. and the layer thickness is 1-2 mm. material is:

Depending on the complexity, the number of decorative elements, the amount of work, the use of 3d films - and the price of work per 1 sq.m. varies.

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Coating features

Self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors exposed to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are suitable in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, maintainable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are suitable in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions... These floors are particularly shock and wear resistant. In terms of properties, they are close to polymer concrete.
Bulk colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The ratio A: B is 100: 60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, solvent-free, colorless epoxy system for high-strength decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy pouring compound	Density 1.50. The ratio A: B is 100: 10. Life time is 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. Ratio A: B -100: 10. Life time is 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete foundations in warehouse, production, assembly and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The ratio A: B is 100: 20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are rigidly elastic, that is, at high mechanical strength they have a sufficient resource of elasticity. They arrange a polyurethane floor covering in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. In terms of layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and shock loads. Various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip) can be imparted to the polyurethane coating.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
lack of smell when styling;
the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, it is applied topcoat(more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, dismantled decorative elements(such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and to remove glue and remnants of the old coating - grinder... By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next comes preliminary preparation grounds. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer with wooden planks... For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there is no difficulty in disposing of the residual solvent, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy and special means for degreasing wood (eg Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on the creation of a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! The rest preparatory activities for a concrete base practically do not differ from those for a base made of wood.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling mortar designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
squeegee;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primers are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15? C, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of essential elements jellied floor - a thermal compensation seam, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, larger, filled cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3? C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

place the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the floor.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is more simple and cheap way, because today you can buy your favorite image in the form of a printout on a plotter (in this case, banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase its operational life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video - 3D Floors

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

Polymer self-leveling floor is a finishing floor covering, consisting of polymer materials... In other words, it is a seamless polymer membrane that is applied to a screed or cleaned concrete slab. Such a polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time protects concrete well from destruction. This floor covering is a popular novelty in modern construction, which has already earned considerable prestige.
Self-leveling floor - an ideal replacement for the usual parquet, tiles, linoleum or laminate

The color palette of a self-leveling self-leveling floor can be completely varied. In the catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor can have, but in reality you can get exactly the color you need. This is achieved by the fact that in building mixture different organic dyes are simply added

Self-leveling floor application

in apartments, residential buildings
in production facilities
in public, commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
in rooms with food industry
for sports facilities, stadiums

Specialized polymer coatings are used depending on the scope and conditions of use.

Self-leveling floors are made of high-quality building materials that are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and equip

We are ready to make three types of self-leveling floors for you:

glossy (creates a feeling of water on the surface)
semi-matte (slightly dimmer glossy)
matte (practically non-reflective)

Options for the self-leveling floor:

Self-leveling floor type No. 3 is an author's design self-leveling floor, has a thickness of the total coating from 3 mm and includes the following types of components:

The first component: the Europoll primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
The second layer is the base layer (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive vinyl films.
The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europoll NEW Finish).

Self-leveling floor type No. 5 is a designer polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and including the following components:

The first component: Europoll primer is applied to the prepared concrete base, followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
The second layer is the fundamental base element (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is designer (Evropoll Ral -Base).

Floor type No. 8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble / compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:

First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared substrate, followed by the addition of quartz dry sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
The second layer is the foundational base (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
The fourth component is the finishing one (Europoll NEW Finish).

Polyurethane or epoxy flooring?

To figure out what kind of coverage you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.

Epoxy self-leveling floor contains at the heart of its composition epoxy resins... It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:

Polyurethane self-leveling floor it is characterized by elasticity, flexibility and shock resistance. Has the following features:

resistant to constant mechanical stress
has increased wear resistance
not afraid of ultraviolet rays (does not lose its color, does not fade)
made exclusively in two component composition, which, after mixing, begins to harden quickly (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
applied to the surface only at a positive temperature (at least + 5 degrees)
does not emit odor when applied
as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface

endowed with high stretching rates
resistant to prolonged vibrations, mechanical stress
with direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
can be one-component and two-component
impregnation depth on concrete is from 2 mm
hardens slowly (no need for quick application to the surface)
when applying it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful vapors are emitted
the floor is applied at a positive temperature

Features of the polymer self-leveling floor

High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand, dust
The elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
Resistant to vibration, possible shock. Self-leveling floors will perfectly cope with all physical activity and at the same time will not lose its original decorative effect
Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type self-leveling coating and install according to all the rules, then the floor can last more than 20 years
Floor seamless - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance of the concrete base
Resistant to corrosive chemicals
Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
Environmental friendliness (does not emit harmful chemical compounds)
Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning using active cleaning agents
Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (thanks to the use of decorative materials)
Fire safety (in case of a possible fire in the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
The floor ensures that there are no sparks, which makes it possible to install it where work with explosive substances is carried out
Maintainability - allows you to fully or partially restore the coating
Quick and easy to fit (work can take 1 - 4 days)
Provides a perfectly flat surface

Self-leveling floor formation technology

1) Preparatory stage - leveling and preparation of the base

Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of solid concrete (minimum M200) or sand concrete

The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various greases, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All dirt is removed by milling, grinding

If the leveling of the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.

2) Priming the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand

The prepared soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base does not uniformly absorb the soil, then after the first layer, highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of primer has polymerized, a second protective layer is applied, at the moment of application of which dry quartz sand is evenly applied on top (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm)

3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer

For the manufacture of a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mixture or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount of cold water (if there are two components, then the first is first diluted, and then the second is gradually poured in). The entire composition is continuously stirred with an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is activated). As a result, a homogeneous, fluid mass without lumps should form, which must be calmly settled for two to three minutes in order for the air entrained by stirring to escape. After that, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and wait for its complete hardening.

The thickness of the general floor covering should vary from 3 to 8 mm, depending on the selected type of self-leveling floor

The final step, but not necessary, can be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can accentuate the surface or make it matte, removing light reflections

Distinctive properties of decorative self-leveling floor

Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. Embodiment design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coverage. The floor should blend perfectly into the interior of the room. It can contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can be up to several centimeters.

Decorating options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:

Adding chips

Traditionally, the floor is leveled with a cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with it, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. To facilitate the work, you can use additives, additives, which increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve a flat surface. This technology is called liquid, jellied or self-leveling floors, since the solution is really liquid and it is poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is long and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level out, the speed of hardening and other characteristics. Therefore, the more common way is to use ready-made mixtures that are selected according to their characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures, you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that an excellent result with self-production easy to achieve, but possible.

One of the varieties of flooded floors is polymer, and they can be monochromatic, or they can include an image. These are the so-called 3D floors. All of them are applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat - polymer floors (and three de) require a perfect base. On concrete slab it can be done using liquid filling technology. Therefore, it is imperative to study it.

Technology and sequence of actions

If you start looking for what mixture to buy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will be confused: there are different compositions with different characteristics. All of them are used in this technology, but for different needs and situations. There are two large groups:

Not so much? But that's not all. In each of these groups there are fast-hardening compounds. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, with a lack of experience (and where can he get it if you are doing a flooded floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening may result in the fact that while you stir all the lumps when the composition is blocked, it will begin to set and there is no time to level it. There have been cases. For example, we were going to fill a room with 16 squares, kneaded two bags of quick-hardening composition in a large tub. The time from getting into water until setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, but it hardly flows anymore. We tried to level it, it almost does not work. Then they quickly unloaded everything into sacks and carried it to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid a similar situation, do not take quick-hardening compositions for the first experiment.

One more nuance. The compositions must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions: for indoor or outdoor work, if the room is periodically left without heating, frost resistance is needed. There are also special compounds for laying underfloor heating - in the list of characteristics there should be a mark about compatibility with heating.

Now about what self-leveling floors are made of. The composition can be based on cement or gypsum, in rare cases both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (the Prospector brand). When buying a leveler and a finishing compound from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveling agent is based on cement, then the finishing compound should be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.

What you need to know

So, the main points and features of the "self-leveling floors" technology:

If the floor is leveled for tiling, a screed is often sufficient. Small differences up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: which will turn out cheaper: pour a layer of liquid floor or increased consumption of tile glue. Both options are equivalent in operational characteristics, so choose the less expensive one. For all other coatings - laminate, parquet board, bag, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. - a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If after the equalizer there is no such result, you will have to fill in another finishing layer.

What do you need

In addition to the bags with the mixture, you will need some tools and accessories:

Working procedure: do-it-yourself self-leveling floor

The first stage - preparation of the base... Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The gaps are embroidered, if they are too large, they are sealed with tile glue or a dry mixture for pouring the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones - up to 3 mm deep - are left without embedding, they just clean well. After finishing the cleaning, they clean everything well, collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The second stage is a primer. It is better to take the primer from the same company as the liquid floor - a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions with which compounds can be used - based on gypsum or cement. You need to prime thoroughly, completely saturating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush or even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single priming is not enough, and after the first has dried, the second is applied, and maybe the third.

The general sequence of work when pouring the floor. Do-it-yourself self-leveling floors using this technology.

Stage three - installation of beacons... Lighthouses are displayed in different ways. The first way: as with a conventional screed, use metal profiles. They can be left in the floor, or after the solution has set (primary hardening), remove and fill the holes with the same mixture. Second way : with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, setting the caps in level. This method is acceptable if you level the solution with a rule. Then, when filling, focus on the hats. Third way: make "rails" from a thick, quick-setting mortar for pouring the floor. Basically for this they use a "P" -shaped profile for drywall, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It, back up, is laid on the self-tapping screws set at the level. A solution is placed inside with a spatula, filling to the very top. The trick here is that there are no voids left. There is a modification of this method: along the laid out self-tapping screws, lay out a roller from the solution into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected, if it did not have time to grab, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.

Stage four - filling. We'll have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most of the formulations lose their elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant, two containers for filling. It is better to measure beforehand the right amount water (pour into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, put everything in rows. Install a sill near the door - so that the liquid floor does not pour out and you can make it even.

One person closes the composition - pours water, pours the composition and mixes it with an electric drill with a stirrer, the second - pours and evens it. The one who smoothes should put on a special sole with thin metal rods on the shoes. If you don't want to buy it, you can make it yourself (for example, see the photo).

The composition is poured onto the floor with a "snake". Although it spreads, it is not so good that you don't need to do anything at all. You will have to level it, especially if you are laying the starting, coarse leveling agent, with a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing the beacons, you "drive" the solution either with a long mounting rail - as a rule, or with a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). In order not to crawl on your lap with it, it can be attached to a long handle. Some people prefer to use a toothed roller to disperse the grout. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm), it does a good job, on thinner ones you need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly - you need to have time to fill the entire room before the moment of final hardening, in addition, the next portion of the solution is being prepared.

As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level it already on a new area, mixing two zones along the edges. So the entire surface is poured.

Stage five - waiting and checking the result... After pouring, close the doors - so that there are no drafts - and wait for the required time. It is very different. Mixtures on cement set longer, on plaster - faster, but usually you can walk on the surface after 12-24 hours.

When specified term will pass, take the two-meter rule and check the result. When using a coarse leveling agent, the difference can be 2-5 mm, or it can be measured in centimeters. It depends very much on skill. If you made a self-leveling floor with your own hands for the first time, and the drops were less than 10 mm, we can congratulate you on your success. This is a good result, and the existing unevenness will be leveled by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain, better spreading.

If you want good results, find a good self-leveling mixture. Of course, it will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of formulations is their price. In general, it is noticed that what less experience, the more expensive the composition should be used for a guaranteed even floor.

Not bad all the nuances and features of the flooded floors are described in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and several brands that are recommended to be used are voiced.

Manufacturers of self-leveling flooring compounds

Many companies, both foreign and domestic, are represented on the market. Some compositions are praised by everyone, some have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often come across this work, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, can get an excellent result. It is more difficult for beginners: they do not know how it should be, therefore they cannot fix it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save money: in order to get a good result, you will have to buy a composition for a self-leveling floor with a very good characteristics and reviews. And these are expensive brands.

Here is a list of manufacturers and formulations, with a brief description:

Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
‘Prospectors - the reviews are different.
Pyramid - Little Experience.
CERESIT CN78 - it is easy to work, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a gypsum-based self-leveling mixture, other compounds level slightly worse.
BROZEX NP-42 - good result, normal spreading.
Horizon Universal - it's hard to work.
Vaateri Plus Vetonit is a self-spreading machine with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is flat, and it is expensive.
Forbo 976 is a self-leveling mixture with good performance.
Basite T-45 - spreads well and smoothes, it is not suitable for a thick layer (more than 10 mm).
Plitonite (PLITONIT) - the composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
Kreps-RV and SL - according to reviews - are normal characteristics at an affordable price.

Naturally, these are not all manufacturers, but those with whom you can make the floor, and do not suffer (according to the reviews of those who worked with them) ...

Polymer and 3D self-leveling floors

The technology of the device of polymer floors is similar to the installation of self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be spread over the surface. The difference is in materials. These are mainly polymers. They differ in the type of binder:

polyurethane;
epoxy;
methyl methaacrylate.

In terms of the thickness of the coating, they can be very thin - this is a dust-free coating and painting, and they can have a thickness of 1.5-4.5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component - before application, they are mixed in a strictly metered proportion. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (primer is its own) and leveled.

Polymer floors can be glossy or matte surface, maybe - rough. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors), a gloss or matte surface is mainly used, in swimming pools or on open terraces- rough, so that it is non-slip even when wet.

Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3d floors (three de), are a special case of a polymer floor. The drawing is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is a thorough study of the drawing and high quality of printing. This pattern is glued to the prepared base, then poured on top with a layer of transparent polymer. After drying, another layer of abrasion-resistant varnish is applied. The result is the most beautiful pictures on the floor that many people like so much.

The basis of the quality of a 3D floor is a perfect base and high-quality drawing

Self-leveling floor technology with a pattern

Step by step, everything looks like this:

All the technology of the 3D floor device is demonstrated in the video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should go away completely.

Those who want to make a voluminous self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. if it comes about photo printing - then in an advertising agency dealing banner advertising or a print shop that has equipment for large format printing on fabric.

If we are talking about polymer compositions, then the number of manufacturing firms is in the tens. There are both domestic and imported ones. They usually produce the entire line - from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are a lot of possibilities for tinting. Choose any of the catalog. This is if you plan to fill a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer, you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photo), as well as transparent. They can also trade all sorts of "chips" to create a shimmery floor, for example, etc.

As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are a few, describing the materials they produce (which they trade):

TeoKhim enterprise - produces polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
Etal and Etal UV - epoxies
Remmers Epoxy (epoxies), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
Self-leveling polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 - one-component (toxic, work in a respirator)
Polyepoflex - epoxy self-leveling floors
Ultraflor - polyurethanes
Poly-Flor - all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methaacrylate)
Epolast - two-component epoxy compounds
Sikafloor-2530W - epoxy self-leveling floor

Actually, this is all technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as keep within the specified time before the compounds harden.

Another video on how to make plain polymer floors.

When deciding on the arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor, the owner must be aware that the work performed must be high level quality and last as long as possible. Therefore, in the future, we will focus specifically on modern ways receiving self-leveling floors. The technology discussed below is not the most affordable and easy.

Self-leveling polymer 3D-floors are currently recommended as a topcoat. It will not only give the floor originality and originality, but will also make such a coating an equal component of the interior.

The essence of 3D floors is that thanks to the decorative component based on high-strength polyurethane, such floors allow you to create a quasi-three-dimensional image. Such floors are made in two stages: first, polymer filling is performed in the usual way, and then, when it is ready, the topcoat is applied. Since transparent polymers are used, the resulting image will have a certain depth.

The aesthetic level of such floors is very high, which allows you to create real architectural compositions, even using components such as colored sand or marble chips.

Naturally, the implementation of this type of self-leveling floor will have its own nuances, which will be discussed below. In the meantime, let's look at the steps required to create the main polymer coating.

Preparatory activities

The room intended for pouring must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris, and all unnecessary items (for example, baseboards) must be removed from it.

Next, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for work.... In particular, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris, and to remove residues old paint, traces of glue, etc. - grinder... By the way, the quality and durability of the floor to be laid directly depends on the thoroughness of cleaning.

It is very important what material the cover is made of. For example, if the fill will be performed wooden base, then for better adhesion of the polymer to the surface, the wooden floor must first be sanded, open all the cracks found, and then degrease with special compounds. Degreasing is most often used with conventional organic solvents - acetone, gasoline or white spirit. But for the subsequent polymer fill it is worth using more effective formulations.

If there are no problems with the disposal of the residues of the degreasing solution, then you can use an alkaline KM solution or simply add surfactants to the composition. Special degreasing wood flooring compounds are also sold (for example, from the Mellerud trademark) - in this case, you can protect yourself from possible fungal formation.

Next, you should evaluate the moisture content of the floor. It should not be more than 10%, otherwise it will be impossible to fill such a coating with a high quality polymer. At the last stage, it is necessary to seal the cracks with special building mixtures.

The preparation of the concrete floor for pouring is performed in a specific sequence.

Assessment of the relative humidity of concrete

It should not exceed 4%, otherwise the coating should be dried. The simplest method assessing the suitability of a concrete floor for pouring according to the state of its moisture consists in laying an ordinary rubber mat on it, which should be pressed firmly on top. If after a day the concrete coating has not changed its color, then its humidity is within acceptable limits.

Checking the strength characteristics of concrete (if the laying was carried out recently)

The compressive strength must be at least 20 MPa, and the peel strength must be at least 1.5 MPa. You can also perform such a check with improvised means. This requires a chisel and a hammer. Having installed the chisel perpendicular to the concrete surface, it is necessary to apply several hammer blows on it with an average force - if the marks on the concrete are barely noticeable, and the concrete after the impact has not crumbled, then its quality meets the requirements;

Determination of the presence of a waterproofing layer

If it is not there, then the work on the arrangement of the self-leveling polymer floor will have to be stopped, since over time the process of peeling of the coating will begin. This circumstance is especially important for self-leveling floors, equipped in rooms with high humidity eg in bathrooms. In case of poor-quality waterproofing, the resulting fumes will penetrate through the capillaries in the concrete to the inner surface of the polymer floor and cause its destruction.

All other preparatory operations on a concrete base do not differ from those on a wooden base.

In the event that it is planned to fill the polymer floor according to ceramic tiles, then it should be checked for possible voidness (it can appear when the adhesive used to stick the tiles dries out). Tiles lagging behind the surface are removed, and the resulting voids are putty. Next, the surface is degreased.

Priming the surface before pouring

The greatest danger when making self-leveling floors is air bubbles, which can form in the thickness of the polymer during pouring. In addition, the primer provides better polymer spreading over the surface to be poured. This is very important because the setting process is extremely fast.

The wooden surface should be primed in two or even three layers, which will ensure the complete closure of the pores. Here it is most advisable to use primer mixtures with a high viscosity, for example, from trade marks Litonet Pro, Knauf, etc.

For concrete surfaces a two-component epoxy composition is suitable, which does not contain mineral components that contribute to the formation of bubbles. The primer is carried out in two stages, and the secondary primer is made only after the first layer has completely dried.

It should be recalled that the primer formulations are very toxic, so the room must be constantly ventilated. At the same time, an excessive decrease in temperature should not be allowed, since at + 15 ° C and below, the effectiveness of adhesion of the primer mixture to the base decreases. After complete drying, the primed surface should "rest" for about a day.

An integral part of the preparatory work is the installation of a thermal compensation joint around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you can use the usual wooden slats from hardwood. The presence of such seams will protect against possible deformation of the finished coating in the event of significant temperature differences.

How to prepare components for pouring

Poor-quality casting will hopelessly ruin the coating, so this stage should be taken with the utmost seriousness. To mix the components, you will need a low-speed electric drill with a wide paddle-shaped nozzle. Better yet, if there is construction mixer... The quality of the self-leveling floor decisively depends on the speed of the mixing process, since the finished composition must be used (that is, poured over the surface) as quickly as possible.

In the process of mixing the components, an exothermic reaction occurs, as a result of which the temperature of the mixture rises. In order that the polymerization of the components does not occur too quickly, the container in which the mixing is performed is placed in another one filled with cold water. As a result, the temperature of the finished mixture will not rise as quickly.

For the same reasons indoor humidity should not exceed 80%... At higher humidity condensation occurs on the surface of the polymer being poured, as a result of which the quality of the filling will decrease, and the setting time, on the contrary, will increase.

In the process of mixing the working mixture, it is necessary to quickly check the mixing quality. Routine visual inspection (for lumps, for example) may not be enough. Experts recommend checking the polymer-containing mixture for readiness for pouring as follows:

a plastic ring with a diameter of 50 mm and more and a height of 30 mm (for example, a cap from a bottle with an air freshener is suitable) is placed on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It could be a piece of thick glass;
the stirred mixture is poured into the ring, after which the ring will rise, and the mixture in the middle will pour out onto the glass surface;
if the mixture spreads evenly, with a “spot” diameter of 18-20 mm, then it is ready for use. Smaller spot diameters will create a mixture that is too thick and will be difficult, if not impossible, to smooth out afterwards. With a larger diameter, the mixture turns out to be more liquid, and the components initial for pouring should be added to it.

How to fill the floor

It is better to start the process from the wall, which is as far as possible from front door... The filling is carried out as uniform stripes as possible, parallel to the wall of the room. Particularly problematic areas - between adjacent strips - should be smoothed out immediately using a wide trowel.

It is important to keep the minimum difference in thickness between adjacent strips. This will help a needle roller, rolling which on the surface of the self-leveling floor, achieve its uniform thickness. At the same time, the quality of the filling is improved by removing possible air bubbles.

The final pouring time is determined by the volume of the prepared mixture, but in most cases it should not exceed one hour. For the proper quality of the filling, the interval between the laying of adjacent polymer strips is also important - it should be no more than 10 minutes. After the end of the pouring, the surface must be covered plastic wrap... It will prevent dust and dirt from falling on an incompletely solidified surface, and will also contribute to a more uniform solidification of the polymer.

3D decorative coating

The decorative layer can be formed in two ways - either by a picture with the desired image, or by a pattern directly performed on the coating. For the second option, acrylic paints are required, which do not deteriorate under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The first way is cheaper, because now you can find a sufficient number of vending drawings, which can then be obtained by printing on a plotter, using banner fabric as a basis. To increase durability, the fabric should be covered with a thermal protective vinyl film.

The image should be slightly larger than required, since it is always easier to cut a piece of a picture than to glue it onto a self-leveling floor - this is ugly and inconvenient.

To link a 3D image to base coat it should be pre-primed using the same composition as for pouring, but diluted with any organic solvent to half the concentration. The primer will cure within 20-24 hours.

The printed image is glued to a primer and rolled using a dry roller. At this time, it is possible to move on the surface of the coating only in shoes with spikes on the sole, otherwise the coating will be damaged! The thickness of the transparent polymer coating should be within 3-4 mm (the greater the thickness, the brighter the effect of the 3D coating).

The preparation and application of the clear resin to cover the banner fabric is the same as for the base fill. Full polymerization will take place in 20-30 minutes, after which, to ensure greater durability, the surface is covered with a layer of transparent varnish.