How to make warm floors at home with your hands. Underfloor heating in a private house: schemes and installation rules

Among existing options heating a country house is the simplest and most economical - the construction of a system for heating air masses inside the room from below, or a warm floor. The market offers many alternatives, forcing the owners to look for answers to the questions: which system to prefer, how best to make a warm floor in a private house, and whether it is possible to carry out the installation yourself.

For country cottages with an autonomous boiler room, it will be cheaper and more convenient to use water system heating air masses from the bottom of the room. The locality of the network will make it possible to regulate both the temperature and pressure of the coolant in the pipes, and its speed, quality, and costs. And this will affect the service life of the entire system, its efficiency and the ability to create optimal comfortable conditions... It is possible to organize an auxiliary heating system when connected to a centralized network. But how effective such a water floor will be in a private house is difficult to judge, since the inclusion of an auxiliary system:

For these reasons, electric or infrared underfloor heating in a private house connected to centralized heating or an apartment would be more appropriate. With autonomy heating system it is wiser and more practical to choose water heating floors. Let's take a closer look at how the system works and how it works. And also we will find out the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house without the involvement of specialists.

The principle of operation of a warm floor in the house

The auxiliary system for heating air masses from the bottom of the room consists of:

The photo shows a diagram of a water-heated floor in a private house, taking into account the radiator system. The latter will be needed in very coldy as the surface temperature of the floor must not exceed:

27-330С in a bathroom or a bathroom;
21-270С in the kitchen;
24-290С in the bedroom, living room and other living rooms;
300C in hallways, corridors, lobbies, etc.

At this temperature of air masses on the floor surface and temperature environment outside the window below -100С create during indoor areas cottage comfortable living conditions are impossible. Temperature calculations were carried out taking into account the effect of underfloor heating on human health with a long stay in the room and high temperatures for performance characteristics floor coverings.

The above diagram shows how to make a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house, but its principle of operation is not told. It is extremely simple. The water is heated by the boiler to 75-900C and is supplied to the mixing unit with the help of a pump. Here there is a decrease in the degree of the coolant from the "return". The mixing process is carried out by a three-way valve. The coolant cooled to 45-550C is pumped to the distribution unit, which is assembled from the collectors to which the underfloor heating circuits are connected - pipes. The feeding type of equipment sends the hot substance into the loop of the system. Having given up its heat, the coolant returns to the collector of the reverse type, then to the boiler.

The question of how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house of a given temperature in each room remained unclear. This requires a servo. It is mounted in the socket of the reverse type collector. The device will provide automatic regulation of the degrees of substance in the system by closing and opening (the processes are determined by the thermostat) passages to the circuits. The equipment is also designed to reduce the load on the system. The servo drive works smoothly and silently, so water hammer is completely excluded. Here it is worth considering one nuance. If you are interested in how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with two circuits, then 2 servos will have to be included in the circuit. The device is installed for each hinge separately.

Installation of water-heated floors in a private house on a concrete screed

The organization of the water system involves laying pipes for supplying the coolant directly to the concrete screed. You can use a sand-cement mortar, but with the scheme of the underfloor heating system in a private house, which is given above, it is much worse compatible. The structure device will be as follows (as it is installed):

Concrete screed or floor slab;
Waterproofing material. If the water floor in the house spreads over the ceiling, then the insulating layer does not need to be laid, because the proximity groundwater No;
Heat insulating material. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene, but you can also lay styrofoam. But it must be borne in mind that the foam will be subjected to a load of at least 20-23 kg / m2. This means that its density should be more than 20 kg / m3. In order to avoid deformations, it is better to buy a slab with a density of at least 35 kg / m3 and even more.

An important point in clarifying the question of how to make warm floors in a private house is the correct choice of materials for the floor cake. It is made taking into account the loads and operating standards. Therefore, if a more practical polystyrene foam is chosen as thermal insulation, its thickness should be over 20 mm. It is better to choose a slab with a thickness of 115 mm, otherwise you will have to solve the problem of how to make the warm floor in the house more efficient. The thicker the insulating material, the less heat leakage will occur. The density of the slab is 32-45 kg / m3 and more;

Waterproofing. An excellent option for a warm floor in a private house will be polyethylene, which is rolled over the surface in two layers. Material thickness - 110-155 microns;
Reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4 mm. Its fastening is carried out to a concrete screed or floor, and not to insulating materials. Otherwise, the immobility of the system cannot be guaranteed;
Pipes. Understanding how to make a warm floor in a private, take an interest in the concepts - materials for the production of pipes, the diameter of the pipes and the length of the circuit. The optimal product is considered to be a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm (when servicing an area of over 50 m2). With such a product, the length of the contour must be made within 70-90 m. If the room is larger, 2 or more contours are laid or pipes of a larger diameter are bought. For the parameter 17 mm, the length of the contour is 90-105 m, for the parameter 20 mm - 120 mm.

The well-known technology of laying a warm water floor in a private house also involves calculating the step of installing pipes. It can vary from 10 to 30 cm. In the coldest zones it is recommended to make it no more than 100-150 mm, in the central zones - 200-300 mm. The smaller the step, the warmer it is in the zone. But when organizing a heating system in a private house in the floor, it is worth remembering that pipes, for example, made of metal-plastic, will be extremely difficult to bend without kinks and bends. Therefore, the styling scheme, the number of contours and the step should be carefully thought out;

Concrete screed. After fixing the pipes for the coolant with plastic clamps to the reinforcement mesh (use from 2 to 4 clamps on running meter) the base is poured with concrete. The layer thickness must be at least 50 mm (calculated from the upper surface of the pipe) when using pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. A thickness of 10 cm is allowed.If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to make water heating of a floor in a private house with your own hands according to a scheme using pipes of a larger diameter, then keep in mind that the screed layer must be larger. But then the level of the floor will rise;
Substrate. When arranging warm water floors in a private house, it is better to use thick cardboard, cork, polyethylene foam. They are environmentally friendly and do not emit odors, toxins when exposed to high temperatures;
Finishing floor covering. Correctly mounted water floor heating in the house goes well with ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, linoleum.

This should be the device of a warm floor in a private house and apartment - the installation technology and materials do not change. Minimum height floor cake will be 140-150 mm, but maybe more. If raising the floor level to this height seems impractical, it is wiser to install other types of warm floors in a private house - cable, infrared film, thermomats.

How to make warm floors from water heating in a private house correctly?

To organized system during operation, it did not become a disappointment and a waste of funds, the following points must be taken into account at the design stage:

Below are the wiring diagrams for laying a warm water floor in a private house on the ground floor. Please note that in colder areas, the step is smaller.

How to fill a screed underfloor heating in a private house: proportions and materials

If water-heated floors in a private house are laid on a concrete floor with their own hands, then, most likely, the solution for the screed will be prepared independently. You will need one weight part of M 300 or 400 grade cement, plasticizers, additives and fine-grained crushed stone with sand, or better screening. The main components are taken in proportions of 1: 6 - one part of cement and 6 parts of screening. When using crushed stone and sand, the proportion will be 1: 4: 3.5 - one part of cement to 4 parts of crushed stone and 3.5 parts of sand.

If, figuring out how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with your own hands, you do not want to waste time mixing the solution, you can use ready-made dry mixes. They are bred according to the instructions on the packaging, which makes it easier and faster to work. Add to ready mix plasticizers and additives are unnecessary.

The correct choice of screed solution when considering how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house yourself is extremely important. For example, cement-sand screed will have less strength and lower heat transfer than a concrete screed. Therefore, experts recommend using concrete, which is also less susceptible to cracking during cooling and subsequent heating.

Now we will master the principle of how to properly fill the warm floor in a private house after installing the pipeline:

When pouring the solution, the screed must be carefully tamped. You can use special construction tools, but you can also use a regular rake, a mop with a rag. This procedure is necessary in order to expel air pockets, the presence of which makes water heating of the floor in a private house less efficient.

Do-it-yourself water-heating floor in a private house: step-by-step instructions and technology

Having studied the device of a water-heated floor in a private house, we carry out direct installation with our own hands. He should follow a simple technique:

Preparation of the base. If the walls and ceiling have not yet been plastered, it is better to carry out this procedure before installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, otherwise it will be difficult to get rid of construction debris on the surface. This is extra work.
Laying waterproofing.
Installation of a damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
Filling the rough screed. If you are installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, then you should take into account that the following stages of work can be carried out after the layer of the rough screed gets stronger. Do not lay the floor cake on the material with a moisture content of more than 80%. Otherwise, excess moisture will lead to cracking of the floor screed.
Installation of thermal insulation. When installing a warm floor in a private house with your own hands, do not forget to tape the insulating material with tape in order to avoid movements and layers. The joints in the bottom row should be overlapped with solid sheet areas in the second row.
Layout of plastic wrap. The material must cover the entire surface area of +50 mm at each wall. This surplus, if you want to make a warm floor from heating with your own hands in the house, reliable and durable, tamp it carefully (you cannot damage the damper tape) with a spatula between the cake and the wall. If the film is laid in pieces, they are overlapped and glued with tape.
Reinforcement device. When figuring out the process of how to make floors under a warm floor in a house, you need to remember one rule - there should be no progress. The mesh cells must correspond to the pipe spacing. This will make it easier to fix them.
Layout of pipes and their fixation. The operation is carried out strictly according to the selected installation scheme for a warm floor for a private house with accurate fastening and bending of pipes.
Installing the collector.
Connecting pipes and systems to the boiler.

After a self-made warm water floor is connected to heating in a private house, and the concrete layer is completely dry, you can warm up the surface. Installation with concrete base long-term and painstaking. It should be started in the summer so that all layers of the floor cake dry well. Otherwise, the base will crack, which will damage the system. If there is no time to wait, it is better to mount a warm floor from heating in a private house on wooden or polymer mats. The styling procedure will take no more than 3-4 days. If the given step by step production Do-it-yourself floor heating in a private house, left questions, which means that it is better to leave the installation and design procedure for the system to professionals. Call us for a consultation!

Warm floors have become far from a novelty. This technology is used for underfloor heating in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their principle of operation is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room well enough. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Their installation is not as difficult as it seems, but it is quite troublesome. How to make a warm floor correctly? This process will largely depend on what type of system was chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of underfloor heating, which differ in the type of heat carrier, and also have a different arrangement technology. However, in general, they are united by one main advantage - a heating element installed directly into the floor cake, due to which it heats up... At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but the air near the floor will be warmer, but above this border, at the level of a person's head, the air remains slightly cool, which makes it possible to create an optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace the system. central heating... But this is not always possible, and it is still not worth giving up on the main radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the coolant is ordinary heated water, which flows inside the pipes, laid according to a certain pattern and poured with a concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. Quite a reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private houses or in new buildings, where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings without the permission of the management company, it will not be possible to connect the water floor, since the installation will imply its connection to central system heating that is not designed for additional loads - it can become very cold in other apartments.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding in the rooms located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipelines to corrode. Installation, of course, is laborious, but this is one of the most economical floor options. Such heating can be installed under any topcoat. However, if you want to use the capabilities of a water-heated floor as efficiently as possible, study the features different coatings... Find perfect option will help .

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - even in old, even in new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot make a water-heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and is a specially laid electrical cable inside the tie. It converts electricity into heat.

For the arrangement of heating can be used self-regulating and resistive cables... In the latter case, a two-core is usually used (single-core ones often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, therefore they do not prefer to use them). Self-regulating wires do not have the same drawbacks that resistive wires have. Usually, a cable floor is used if the topcoat is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, since it does not require pouring a new screed, is easy to install, but the quality is not inferior to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy consumption, easy to repair and completely safe for humans. Such a system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a little static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared underfloor heating, depending on topcoat read in separate articles of the portal: under the laminate, but under the tiles.

Table. Comparison of the characteristics of different systems.

Characteristic	Water floor	Electric floor
EMP presence	Not	Possibly depending on the type of cable
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildings	Only in new buildings with a separate connection	Yes
Quick control of settings	Not	Yes
Depending on the heating season	Yes - in apartments and no - in private houses	Not
Installation time	Long-lasting due to the need to fill the screed	Short
The ability to lay any topcoat	Yes	Certain types of flooring must not be laid on top of an electric floor.
Ease of repair	Difficult repair	In the case of infrared floors - quick repair

Prices for an electric heat-insulated floor "Teplolux"

electric warm floor thermolux

If you have not yet decided on the type of warm floor, read it. There we examined in detail the advantages and disadvantages of different materials and made a list of recommendations.

Do-it-yourself warm water floor

Let's consider in more detail the process of work when arranging water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - this is the preparation of the rough base, the installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the topcoat. In this case, it will be considered a budget option creating a heating system.

Underfloor heating is a serious cost item for renovation, so it is important to calculate exactly how much and what materials will be needed. To ease your labor costs, we have prepared a description of how to calculate the warm floor - water or electric. Online calculators are included. And in the article "" you will find a complete list of everything that may be needed during installation.

Preparation of the base

Consider how to make a rough floor for arranging a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. The first step is to completely dismantle the old wood floor. Planks and logs are removed. Remains of bricks and oversized construction garbage can be left on the ground.

Step 2. A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main reference point of the required level is the front door. The markings should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3. Marking is applied to the walls. The first mark marks the border of the screed with the laid heating pipes (the screed must not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4. Along the line of the laser level, marks are applied to the walls along the entire perimeter at the level of the finished floor.

Step 5. On the walls, markings are applied to two other levels - expanded clay bedding and screeds. The reference point in this case is the mark of the finished floor.

Step 6. The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the bottom mark.

Step 8.

Step 9. The holes in the walls, left over from the logs, are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10. Waterproofing is laid on the sand layer. In this case, it is a dense polyethylene film that is installed on the walls with the plant. For convenience, the film is fixed with tape.

Step 11. Installation of beacons begins. For this, cubes from a foam block of high density are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. The cubes are installed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12. Metal profiles-beacons with a height of 1 cm are installed on the cubes.

Step 13. At the joints of the lighthouses, a cube must be installed. For correct docking, the beacons are trimmed. With correct docking, the beacons are superimposed on each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14. Lighthouses are set by level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. You can use plywood pads to level them.

Step 15. When the beacons are leveled, they are fixed on the cubes with self-tapping screws.

Step 16. The sub-floor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of the base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve the desired result. The operation is carried out along the entire length of the beacons.

Step 17. Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18. Expanded clay is mixed with a small amount cement mix... This will create a sturdier floor. A bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used for a bag of expanded clay.

Step 19. Prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is carried out starting from the far corner of the room. Before top level lighthouses should have about 1.5 cm of free space.

Step 20. The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The mortar is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned with the beacon rule. Ideal evenness may not be achieved. To make the beacons easy to remove from the screed, their surface is not smeared.

Step 22. Two days later, when the screed dries up, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws fixing them are unscrewed. Wooden linings are removed along with the lighthouses.

Step 23. After that, the resulting cracks are cleaned of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Piping and connection

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the current heating system will be saved on the basis gas boiler... The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is directed to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second outlet of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and underfloor heating. A circulation pump will be installed at the entrance to the return circuit.

Step 2. The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. To seal the connection, sanitary flax and sealant are used.

Step 3. This is how the finished battery outputs will look like. One of them will be used to connect the warm floor.

Step 4. Before further installation of pipes, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room (we have already discussed it). She sits on the walls with glue.

Step 5. On the rough screed stacked with multifoil - a special insulation. Separate strips of material are fixed to each other with adhesive tape.

Step 6. A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is laid on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The mesh is connected to each other using a wire.

Step 7. The pipe leading to the return is installed and connected.

Step 8. To the other outlet from the battery, a water floor pipe with a section of 20 mm is mounted. A piece of protective corrugation can be put on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9. The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to the mesh with plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks on the pipe. To shape the knees, you can use a hair dryer to heat the pipe. The distance in the loop between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10. The underfloor heating pipe is laid with a snake.

Step 11. The ends of the return pipe and underfloor heating are directed to metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

Step 12. The sections of the metal mesh that rise above the floor level are fixed on the base of the floor using dowels and metal plates.

Step 13. Further work will be carried out in the basement. The circulation pump is being installed. It connects to the return pipe. Two cranes are also installed in the system. One of them will cut off natural circulation. The bottom valve completely closes the inlet to the return pipe.

Step 14. The regulating unit is being assembled and all pipes are connected. In the mode natural circulation water flows through the underfloor heating pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the upper tap, then the water from the warm floor will move along the additional pipe towards the pump - this is a mode of rapid heating of the floor. If the bottom tap is closed when the pump is off, then the warm floor will be completely turned off.

Filling the screed

The final stage of the installation of the water floor is the pouring of the screed and the laying of the floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are placed on concrete pieces.

Step 2. Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base with cement mortar.

Step 3. The lighthouses are fixed to the concrete with self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be exactly level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to more correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4. A concrete solution is prepared in exact proportions.

Step 5. The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6. Concrete mortar aligns with beacons using a rule.

Step 7. The screed is dried within 28 days. The floor is covered with a topcoat.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of a warm IR floor

The complexity and the whole process of manufacturing a warm floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. The water floor is perhaps the most the best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. For those who do not want to bother with the screed, we recommend using infrared floors.

In rooms heated using underfloor heating technology, the sensations are much more comfortable than with a traditional radiator system. When the floor is heated, the temperature will be distributed in an optimal way: it is warmer for the legs, and at head level it is already cooler. There are two heating methods: water and electric. Water is more expensive to install, but cheaper to operate, so that it is more often done. You can slightly reduce installation costs if you make a water-heated floor with your own hands. The technology is not the simplest one, but it also does not require encyclopedic knowledge.

Device and principle of operation

For water heating of the warm floor, a system of pipes is used through which the coolant circulates. Most often, pipes are poured into a screed, but there are dry installation systems - wood or polystyrene. In any case, there is a large number of small cross-section pipes laid under the floor covering.

Where can you mount

Due to the large number of pipes, water heating is done mainly in private houses. The fact is that the heating system of high-rise buildings of early construction is not designed for such a heating method. It is possible to make a warm floor from heating, but there is a high probability that either it will be too cold for you, or with the neighbors above or below, depending on the type of power supply to the system. Sometimes the entire riser becomes cold: the hydraulic resistance of the water floor is several times higher than that of the radiator heating system and it can clog the movement of the coolant. For this reason, it is very difficult to obtain permission from the management company to install a warm floor (installation without permission is an administrative offense).

The good news is that in new buildings they began to make two systems: one for radiator heating, the second for a water-heated floor. In such houses and permission is not required: an appropriate system was developed taking into account the higher hydraulic resistance.

Organization principles

To understand what you need in order to make a water-heated floor with your own hands, you need to understand what the system consists of and how it works.

Heating medium temperature control

To make your feet comfortable on the floor, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40-45 ° C. Then the floor heats up to comfortable values - about 28 ° C. Most of heating equipment it cannot produce such a temperature: at least 60-65 ° C. Exception - condensation gas boilers... They show maximum efficiency precisely at low temperatures. From their outlet, the heated coolant can be fed directly into the pipes of the underfloor heating.

When using any other type of boiler, a mixing unit is required. In it, the cooled coolant from the return pipe is added to the hot water from the boiler. You can see the composition of this bond on the diagram for connecting the warm floor to the boiler.

The principle of operation is as follows. The heated coolant is supplied from the boiler. It goes to the thermostatic valve, which, when the temperature threshold is exceeded, opens the water admixture from the return pipe. In the photo, there is a jumper in front of the circulation pump. A two-way or three-way valve is installed in it. Opening it and mix in the cooled coolant.

The mixed flow through the circulation pump enters the thermostat, which controls the operation of the thermostatic valve. When the set temperature is reached, the flow from the return flow stops, if it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the temperature of the coolant of the water underfloor heating is regulated.

Contour distribution

Then the coolant enters the distribution manifold. If a water-heated floor is made in one small room (bathroom, for example), in which only one loop of pipes is laid, this unit may not exist. If there are several loops, then between them it is necessary to distribute the coolant in some way, and then somehow collect it and send it to the return pipeline. This task is performed by the distribution comb or, as it is also called, the underfloor heating collector. In fact, these are two pipes - on the supply and return, to which the inputs and outputs of all the underfloor heating circuits are connected. This is the easiest option.

If the underfloor heating is made in several rooms, then it is better to install a collector with the ability to adjust the temperature. First, in different rooms different temperatures are required: someone prefers + 18 ° C in the bedroom, someone needs + 25 ° C. Secondly, most often, the contours have different lengths, and they can transmit different amount heat. Thirdly, there are “internal” premises - in which one wall faces the street, and there are corner ones - with two or even three external walls. Naturally, the amount of heat in them should be different. Combs with thermostats provide this. The equipment is not cheap, the circuit is more complicated, but such an installation allows you to maintain a given temperature in the room.

There are different thermostats. Some control the air temperature in the room, the second - the floor temperature. You choose the type yourself. Regardless, they control the servo motors mounted on the feed comb. The servomotors, depending on the command, increase or decrease the flow area, adjusting the flow rate of the coolant.

Theoretically (and in practice it happens) situations may arise when the supply to all circuits is blocked. In this case, the circulation will stop, the boiler may boil and fail. To prevent this from happening, be sure to make a bypass through which part of the coolant passes. With this construction of the system, the boiler is safe.

You can watch one of the system options in the video.

Laying a warm water floor

One of the key components of the system is pipes and their fixing system. There are two technologies:

Both systems are imperfect, but screed pipes are cheaper. Although it has a lot of disadvantages, it is it that is more popular due to its lower cost.

Which system to choose

In terms of cost, dry systems are more expensive: their components (if you take ready-made, factory-made) cost more. But they weigh much less and are quicker to put into service. There are several reasons why you should use them.

First: the heavy weight of the screed. Not all foundations and floors of houses are capable of withstanding the load created by a water-heated floor in a concrete screed. Above the surface of the pipes there must be a layer of concrete of at least 3 cm.Considering that outside diameter the pipe is also about 3 cm, then the total thickness of the screed is 6 cm. The weight is more than significant. And on top there is often a tile on a layer of glue. It's good if the foundation is designed with a margin - it will withstand, and if not, problems will begin. If there is a suspicion that the floor or foundation will not bear the load, it is better to make a wooden or polystyrene system.

Second: low maintainability of the screed system. Although it is recommended to lay only one-piece coils of pipes without connections when laying the underfloor heating contours, the pipes are periodically damaged. Or, during the repair, they got hit with a drill, or they burst due to a marriage. The place of damage can be determined by a damp spot, but it is difficult to repair: you have to break the screed. In this case, adjacent hinges can be damaged, due to which the damaged zone becomes larger. Even if it was possible to do it carefully, you have to make two seams, namely, they are potential places for the next damage.

Third: the commissioning of a heated floor in a screed is possible only after the concrete has reached 100% strength resource. This takes at least 28 days. Until this time, you cannot turn on the warm floor.

Fourth, you have a wooden floor made. By itself is heavy on wooden floor- not the best idea, but also a screed with an increased temperature. The wood quickly collapses, the entire system collapses.

The reasons are serious. Therefore, in some cases, it is more expedient to use dry technologies. Moreover, a wooden water-heated floor with your own hands is not so expensive. The most expensive component is metal plates, but they can also be made from thin sheet metal and better aluminum. It is important to be able to bend when shaping pipe grooves.

A variant of a polystyrene underfloor heating system without a screed is demonstrated in the video.

Materials for warm water floor

Most often they make a water-heated floor in a screed. About its structure and necessary materials and the speech will go. A diagram of a warm water floor is shown in the photo below.

All work begins with leveling the base: without insulation, heating costs will be too high, and insulation can only be laid on a flat surface. Therefore, the first thing to do is prepare the base - make a rough screed. Next, we describe step by step the order of work and the materials used in the process:

A damper tape is also rolled along the perimeter of the room. This is the strip thermal insulation material, no more than 1 cm thick. It prevents heat loss for heating walls. Its second task is to compensate for the thermal expansion that occurs when materials are heated. The tape can be special, or you can lay it cut into strips thin foam(no more than 1 cm thick) or other insulation of the same thickness.
A layer of heat-insulating materials is laid on the rough screed. For underfloor heating the best choice- expanded polystyrene. Best of all - extruded. Its density should be at least 35kg / m 2. It is dense enough to withstand the weight of the screed and operational loads, has excellent performance and a long service life. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive. Other, cheaper materials (polystyrene, mineral wool, expanded clay), have a lot of disadvantages. If possible, use expanded polystyrene. The thickness of the insulation depends on many parameters - on the region, the characteristics of the foundation material and insulation, the method of organizing the subfloor. Therefore, it must be calculated in relation to each case.

Next, they often put a reinforcing mesh with a step of 5 cm. Pipes are also tied to it - with wire or plastic clamps. If polystyrene foam was used, you can do without reinforcement - you can fix it with special plastic brackets that are driven into the material. For other heaters, a reinforcing mesh is required.
Beacons are installed on top, after which the screed is poured. Its thickness is less than 3 cm above the level of the pipes.
Next, the finishing flooring is laid. Anything suitable for use in a heated floor system.

These are all the main layers that need to be laid when you make a water-heated floor with your own hands.

Underfloor heating pipes and laying patterns

The main element of the system is pipes. Most often they use polymeric ones - from cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic. They bend well and have a long service life. Their only obvious drawback is not too high thermal conductivity. The recently appeared corrugated stainless steel pipes do not have this minus. They bend better, cost no more, but due to their low popularity, they are not often used so far.

The diameter of pipes for underfloor heating depends on the material, but usually it is 16-20 mm. They fit in several ways. The most common are a spiral and a snake; there are several modifications that take into account some of the features of the premises.

Laying with a snake is the simplest, but passing through the pipes the coolant gradually cools down and it reaches the end of the circuit that is much colder than it was at the beginning. Therefore, the zone where the coolant enters will be the warmest. This feature is used - the installation starts from the coldest zone - along the outer walls or under the window.

This drawback is almost devoid of a double snake and a spiral, but they are more difficult to install - you need to draw a diagram on paper so as not to get confused when laying.

Screed

Can be used to fill a water-heated floor with a regular cement-sand mortar based on Portland cement. The Portland cement brand should be high - M-400, or better M-500. - not lower than M-350.

But ordinary "wet" screeds take a very long time to gain their design strength: not less than 28 days. All this time, you cannot turn on the warm floor: cracks will go, which can even break pipes. Therefore, the so-called semi-dry screeds are increasingly used - with additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, significantly reducing the amount of water and the time for "ripening". You can add them yourself or look for dry mixes with appropriate properties. They are more expensive, but they are less troublesome: according to the instructions, add the required amount of water and mix.

It is realistic to make a water-heated floor with your own hands, but it will take a decent period of time and considerable funds.

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O One of the options for floor heating is water underfloor heating. In such devices, heated water is used as a heat carrier, which circulates through the pipeline. It is warmed up with. When designing, manufacturing renovation works, as well as the replacement of heating devices, you need to know the wiring diagrams of water-heated floors in a private house. More details in the material below.

Scheme of water floors

The components of the underfloor heating mechanism are heating elements inside the floor. When choosing wiring diagrams for water heated floors in a private house, it should be borne in mind that such a structure has a layered structure.

Worth highlighting the following items in the equipment device:

A concrete slab or other sub-floor is the base layer.

Thermal insulation provides protection against improper heat distribution.

Installation of water floors.

Concrete mortar.
Flooring.

Helpful information! The thickness of the entire structure should be within 7-15 cm.

Features of mounting technology

A floor heating device is an excellent solution for rooms with an area of more than 20 square meters. meters. In small-sized rooms, it is difficult to lay highways with water, therefore it is recommended to make electrical structures in them.

Traditionally, wiring diagrams of water-heated floors in a private house are designed in screeds. This is necessary due to the increased stress from which the pipeline system must be protected. In addition, the pipes must be in contact with the screed, which functions as a heated surface.

The water lines are mounted using a special mesh, polystyrene fixing sheets or grooved plates. The prepared base is covered with a waterproofing film. During installation, a reinforcing mesh is placed on the heat-insulating layer, on top of which the pipeline is mounted. Before proceeding with the installation of pipes, it is necessary to calculate the equipment in order to ensure the required heat transfer, taking into account losses. The pipeline is mounted to the frame using clamps. A reinforced screed is also installed on top of the highways.

Helpful information! In apartments with many tenants, it is forbidden to install such a structure from centralized heating. When installing a separate heat source, a special permit is required.

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Wiring diagrams

Compliance with the installation rules affects the spread of heat in the surrounding space. In a similar design hot water moves through pipes, heats adjacent surfaces and cools down at the same time. Therefore, all wiring diagrams for water-heated floors in a private house start from the walls and move along the selected system to the exit or to the central part.

There are the following flooring schemes:

The volute system implies a spiral pipe laying. In this case, with the subsequent turnover, the structure narrows towards the central part. In this case, the line is laid loosely through the rows to leave room for pipes in the opposite direction. With a spiral design, uniform heating of the room is ensured, and hydraulic resistance is also reduced. This results in less pipe consumption. The disadvantages of the scheme include the complexity of installation.

Scheme "Snail"

The snake is the laying of highways along the outer walls in the form of loops. Then the pipes are mounted in a wavy line in the opposite direction. Installation of pipes in the form of a snake is easy to design. The disadvantages include temperature jumps due to the frequent styling step.

The "Snake" scheme

The combination scheme is a combination of two systems. This design is suitable for rooms with cold wall surfaces. In this case, the elements are in the shape of loops, but in some areas they have the shape right angle... The circuit is mounted so that the supply pipeline is located closer to the outer walls. For better heating of the extreme zones, a decrease in the pitch of the pipe installation is used.

Related article:

After calculations are made to select the optimal pitch between the turns, as well as to determine the boiler power and purchase a collector and a thermostat, the selected wiring diagrams for water heated floors in a private house are connected:

The ends of the lines are connected to a manifold.

A thermostat and a pump are installed between the boiler and the collector.

The system is connected to the boiler.

The correctness of the assembly of the structure is checked.

Liquid is started up inside the system and the boiler is turned on. If everything is done correctly, the floors will be warmed up in half an hour.

Helpful information! A type wiring diagrams water underfloor heating in a private house depends on the heating method and geometric shapes premises. The main heating is done with spirals and double hinges, while additional heating is done with single hinges.

Connection diagrams

If the structure is connected to a boiler, then you will need to calculate its power. Its value should be 18-20% higher than the power of warm floors. A safety group is mandatory installed on the circuit, which may also imply the presence of an expansion tank.

The line from the boiler is connected to the collector device. It is mounted in a prepared cabinet. The main leaving the collector is mounted over the required area according to the selected scheme, and the return pipeline is connected to the return collector. If different branches are mounted, then the manifold is equipped with a certain number of incoming holes.

If forced circulation of liquid is carried out, then pumping stations and mixer assemblies for pumping water are mounted in the section from the boiler to the collector. The temperature in the system is controlled by automated mechanisms and sensors.

Important information! It is imperative to install shut-off and control valves between the lines and the manifolds. This is done in order to be able to turn off the tap in case of repair.

Application of heat exchangers

Wiring diagrams of water-heated floors in a private house are often complemented by a heat exchanger. This is a device that replaces the coolant in the floor structure and heating system.

An important function of the equipment is to transfer energy from the heat carrier located in the centralized riser to the water, which moves through the pipeline to heat the floors. A similar exchange is carried out also from gas to water. Thanks to the heat exchanger mechanism, heating is independent of the central heating system. There are many advantages to installing the device. In this case, there is no decrease in the level of pressure of water flows and temperature. Which does not cause inconvenience to the housemates.

Video: DIY installation of a warm floor

After installing the floor circuits and before installing the screed, the structure is checked for correct work and all kinds of leaks. In this case, the check is performed by different methods.

The system is tested using special equipment and an air mixture is injected into it. In the process, the pressure rises to 4 bar. This method helps to identify even the slightest leak.

Also, the check is performed by filling the system with liquid at a certain pressure. At the same time, in half an hour, its value should not decrease by more than 0.6 MPa. After a couple of hours, it should not drop by more than 0.02 MPa at a constant temperature of the internal liquid.

When connecting the system to the boiler equipment, a variety of collectors are used. The system starts pump equipment and automatic mechanisms for controlling various parameters.

Wiring diagrams of water-heated floors in a private house are developed in accordance with the estimated energy consumption and its losses through the enclosing structures. It should be borne in mind that the total load depends on the methods of insulation, wall material and thickness, as well as on floors and on the number of door and window openings... Recommended installation circulation pumps in each circuit for balancing underfloor heating... Also, when designing door and window openings, it is necessary to take into account the height of the flooring structure.

Living in a gas-polluted city, more and more of our fellow citizens are beginning to think about changing their place of residence to a more environmentally friendly one. For quite some time, the owners of a country house have been able to enjoy peace and clean air.

However, such a life provides a slightly different level of comfort than living in a city apartment. The most pressing problems of a separate residential building include insufficient floor temperature.

Today there are solutions to eliminate this disadvantage. We are talking about a water floor heating system, which any homeowner can arrange with his own hands. To achieve desired result possible subject to the necessary skills and experience.

Underfloor heating types

Today, the owner of a country house has two ways to solve the problem of heating a room: a water heating device and the use of electricity.

Electricity is used today infrared film constructions... But, given its high cost, this option cannot be used to solve the problem of heating a house from a position of expediency.

For this reason, most owners country houses more and more often choose water heating systems.

However, against the background of a water floor, electrical systems have an important advantage, which consists in in the absence of difficulties when installing. Any person can lay the electrical cable. But not everyone is able to cope with the installation of pipes and connecting them to a heating boiler the first time.

At the same time, it must be remembered that when using electrical heating systems, it is noted negative effect from the side electromagnetic waves on the health of people living in a private building.

The principal device of a water-heated floor in a private house

The action of the water floor system is based on the movement of heated water, which contained in pipes laid under the flooring. The heat emitted by it spreads to the floor covering, and it already begins to heat the air in the room.

Installation of the pipeline requires adherence to a certain step. The choice of this parameter is carried out on the basis of heat engineering calculations, when performing which it is necessary to take into account a number of factors:

wall material thickness;
the power of the boiler used for heating;
the material from which the pipes are made;
type of floor base;
the area of the room that is planned to be heated;
ceiling height;
climate features of a particular area.

Usually, when installing a warm water floor in a private house, the owners opt for pipes from plastic or metal-plastic.

The reason for this decision is the affordable price. Also, there are no difficulties with installation, while they have a long service life, which can reach 50 years.

After the pipes have been laid connect to the heating boiler... As well as plain water other types of non-freezing liquids can also distribute heat through pipes.

Preparatory work

Even before the installation of a water-heated floor in a private house, attention should be paid to the base, which should be durable and not have irregularities.

To bring it to the required form, carry out preparatory activities, which consist in a waterproofing device, laying insulation and creating a cement-sand screed.

You should also make sure that the room has windows and doors installed, the walls were plastered, and the places where the heating, sewerage and water pipelines will be connected have been determined.

Floor slab preparation

Quite often, underfloor heating in country house have to stack on reinforced concrete slab overlap. In such situations, the first step is to place vapor barrier layer.

When waterproofing, you can use special formulations that have a bituminous base or glue the base with materials such as roofing material, fiberglass, fiberglass... To fix them, it is necessary to use formulations on a similar basis.

As for vapor barrier, it will do an excellent job with this role. polyethylene film With minimum thickness 0.2 mm. The device of hydro and vapor barrier is a mandatory requirement, the fulfillment of which makes it possible to protect the insulating layer from moisture.

The risk of the latter is increased against the background of condensation, when a warm floor slab is in contact with cold ground.

When installing a film vapor barrier or waterproofing based on pasting materials, material is used in the form of strips, which should be placed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. When working with a film, it is necessary fix with tape.

If you have to deal with sheets of gluing waterproofing, then bitumen compositions are used for fixing. Regardless of the type of insulation used, it must be placed on a vertical surface above insulating layer and fixed to the walls.

Substrate preparation

Situations are common when the process of building private houses takes place without the use of a floor slab. This option is chosen in cases where the project does not provide for a basement.

Preparatory activities are reduced to creating a primary layer based on sand and gravel... Moreover, they are laid out in the form of separate layers on top of each other, maintaining a height of no more than 10 cm. The obligatory procedure that each layer must undergo is moistening and tamping.

Next, proceed to pouring concrete the area of the room selected for laying a water-heated floor. It will be useful to place reinforcement mesh, which will increase the reliability of the structure. It is necessary to ensure the levelness of the surface, using a building level for verification.

When pouring concrete, it is necessary focus on lighthouse rails... Their benefit lies not only in simplifying the observance of horizontality, but also in their fulfillment of the role expansion joints... Following building codes and the rules, it is necessary to ensure that the horizontal differences do not exceed 1 centimeter.

Floor insulation

When installing a warm water floor in a country house with your own hands important role thermal insulation is taken away. Its main task is to restrict the access of heat emanating from pipes with hot water, v lower part underground space, which can be soil or basement.

The efficient operation of the system will only be achieved when the heat is directed only upward into the living space.

Particular attention should be paid to the right choice material for thermal insulation and its thickness. This will greatly affect how much you can reduce heating costs.

Rules for creating thermal insulation

When choosing the thickness of the insulating layer, the following parameters are taken into account:

Characteristics of the wall material.
Climatic conditions.
Groundwater level in the absence of floor slabs.
The volume of the room where it is planned to carry out the installation of the warm floor.

If you follow the standards, then the insulating layer on which the screed will be built in the future, created over the ground base or cold basement, should have a thickness of 50 mm. In the case of laying on floor slabs, this parameter can be reduced.

In most cases, the role of a heat insulator performs expanded polystyrene having a foil-based coating on one side. Working with this material is fraught with some inconveniences, since you have to use improvised means, for example, clamps, to fix the pipes.

However, you can get rid of such difficulties if you buy more modern slabs based on expanded polystyrene, providing faster installation and a higher level of installation quality.

Due to the special design, these plates provide a strong connection, which is greatly facilitated by the use of locking devices. Therefore, if you use such structures, then the problem of creating a solid, strong and even base is solved quite simply.

The material used has high density characteristics and a vapor barrier layer represented by a film based on rigid polystyrene. In addition to this, in the construction of the slabs special channels are provided designed to accommodate heating pipes.

The technology of mounting such plates in a country house does not require the use of a tape measure or other measuring instruments... The presence of linear markings on the edges eliminates this need.

Due to this, it becomes possible to complete installation work in less time. This advantage is not the only one that is inherent in these plates, however, already taking this into account, it can be understood that similar choice will not be wrong.

Care should be taken to ensure that expanded polystyrene plates were placed over the entire floor area. With this type of installation, you can guarantee high level of strength concrete screed and the reliability of the entire heating system.

Features of underfloor heating

Despite the fact that you have some knowledge regarding the installation of pipes in an apartment, it is best for qualified specialists to do this work. Only in this case it is possible guarantee effective work underfloor heating systems.

During styling similar systems heating, a number of rules must be observed:

The frequency of pipe placement directly affects the heating level of the floor covering, which determines the temperature regime that will be maintained in the premises.
When laying pipes close to outer walls it is necessary to strive to place them as tightly as possible than in the middle of the room. This must be done keeping in mind that a certain amount of heat will go to heat them.
When laying pipes in loops, they must be placed in increments of 10–25 cm.
It is unacceptable to lay the elements of the heating system according to a scheme in which the joints of the floor slabs will be blocked. If it is not possible to place them on different slabs, then the first step is to lay a steel casing at the intersection of the slabs, in which the pipes should be placed.
Ladders, vestibules entrance doors and other rooms that do not differ in large space, it is undesirable to heat with a warm floor.

Among all the heating options available today underground systems are the most preferable, surpassing radiator and air counterparts in their characteristics. But it must be remembered that not all owners are able to correctly perform the device of a water-heated floor with their own hands.

At the same time, many can handle the preparation of the foundation. This work should not be neglected as it will help. save a lot of money on the installation of an underfloor heating system in a country house.