Do-it-yourself splicing of timber along the length: solutions for different types of loads. How is the joining of the timber? How many centimeters for splicing timber

It certainly raises the question of splicing parts of wood. This is the most common problem that anyone who is going to use a beam or log encounters.

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

How to dock a beam

In principle, there is nothing complicated in connecting along the length, but it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the basics of work before starting it. In any case, this knowledge will be required throughout the construction and will not interfere with anyone.

After all, the conversation is not only about load-bearing walls fully wooden house from profiled or simple timber, it is also interior partitions. So work. In addition, splicing will allow rational use of the material, and the price of the entire estimate will not be prohibitively high.

What is a beam in the house

Before you start connecting wood to each other, you need to determine what kind of material will be discussed.

The fact is that a wooden house can be built from several types of material, namely: rounded log, frame.

And lumber splicing may be required in any of the above types of material.

Here it must be said right away that the dimensions of most wood products cannot be brought under a certain standard. There are at least three or four values ​​​​in width and height of the beam, in addition, there are a lot of varieties where the section does not involve working with load-bearing walls.

For example, a spliced ​​bar 50x50 mm. For the most part, it is used to create crates, and for truss system lightweight roofing. Of course, it is possible to make a connection simply by overlapping along the edge, along the side, but sometimes this is not possible.

For example, if we are talking about pre-prepared attachment points in the siding, you will have to continue vertical installation crates in one guide.

So, in the absence of standard sizes in width and thickness, there is still a length size, which is 3, and most often, 6 meters. This is the most popular and most convenient size to use.

Namely, based on the length of not only a product of 50x50 mm, we can say that if the size of the house is more than, conditionally, 6x6, then you will have to do wood splicing.

How to "join"

There is nothing super complicated in splicing wood, and you can do it quite simply with your own hands. As already mentioned, there are several main reasons for docking, and one of the methods described below can be applied everywhere.

Important! It should be noted right away that the bars in the construction of the wall must be joined, taking into account the moment of dressing. That is, the bars are joined on one side with a dressing, but the next row is already on the other side. Such an order will exclude the moment of docking "one for one". You can also remember how a brick is laid, without falling joint to joint, in order to constantly observe the laying and dressing. Here, in working with wood, exactly the same principle is used.

Before starting work on splicing, you need to refer to GOST 30974-2002. It is in this document that all the nuances associated with docking are technically accurately described. And we are talking about work just with the low-rise construction of timber and log houses.

The standard described in the proposed GOST applies to:

  • T-connections.
  • Corner joints of low-rise buildings.

Basically, when independent work for the construction of a house, for example, it is not necessary to strictly comply with the recommendations of GOST, however, when certifying profiled timber, for example, all requirements are strictly observed.

As for the types of joining, they depend not only on the technical equipment of the worker, but primarily on the loads that can be applied to the joint.

It is customary to consider the following types of loads:

  • For wood compression. At the same time, it is important that the wood in the "butt" is in contact with as large an area as possible.
  • tensile material. Here, the spliced ​​beam must be equipped with a connection according to the “lock” principle.
  • On the bend. In this case, the joint will be made at an angle.

Ways

Almost any docking along the length can be done on your own. There are several types, these are:

  • Connection in half a tree. Half of the thickness is cut off at both parts of the timber at a right angle. Additionally, you can strengthen the connection with screws.
  • Dowel connection. The connection itself can be made in half a tree, but the keys are pre-made, and holes of a slightly smaller diameter are drilled. The depth of inserting the keys into the beams should be taken at least 2 cm and not more than 1/5 of the height.
  • Connection with root spike. A fairly time-consuming connection that requires great precision and serious carpentry skills.

Today, when choosing a material for the construction of private houses, developers are increasingly choosing wood. This choice is due to a number of positive qualities this building material. Wooden house is primarily environmental clean house. A wooden house can fit into any landscape, giving it a unique personality and a special atmosphere. To this should be added affordable prices for wood and the relative ease of building a wooden house. And if we take into account the savings in time and money during its construction, then the choice of wood as a building material will be fully justified.

A house made of timber is environmentally friendly and harmoniously fits into any natural landscape, to which we should add the availability of material and the relative simplicity of construction.

Our ancestors over the centuries have accumulated vast experience in construction wooden houses. But today, more and more often, instead of a traditional log, wooden beam. And although the technique of connecting the elements of a log and a beam has much in common, it is still somewhat different. Therefore, when building a house from a bar, you need to know how to join the bar, if the need arises.

The need for docking

Marking and calculations of some types of joints of beam corners.

Although the houses being built may differ in the type of wood and the way it is processed, the question of how to properly lay the timber and securely fasten it between the crowns will always be relevant. It is from these two factors that the life of the built house depends. After all, improper installation will lead to the fact that the house will gradually tilt to one side. And with a loose connection of the crowns, the walls will certainly freeze through in winter.

The need to join the ends can arise in only two cases: when cutting a corner and when the wall length is more than 6 m ( standard size bar length). You can also add a notch to them internal walls in external walls house under construction, but in this case we are talking about only one end.

Since these are three completely different operations and they perform different tasks, then the joining of the ends in each case is performed differently, although it has similar elements.

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Types of fastening the beam at the corners

Two types of fastening of the beams in the corners: a log house “in the paw” and a log house “in the oblo”.

The stability of the whole house depends on the reliability of fixing the corners. There are two ways to join a beam at the corners - with the remainder, i.e. with protruding ends, and without residue. The main type of connection with the remainder is a type of docking “in oblo”.

The main types of connection without residue: in the paw, with a key groove of the “in the oblo” type and T-shaped connections - a straight or key groove and a trapezoidal tenon, rectangular or symmetrical.

The main advantage of the joint without residue is the saving of material. But on the other hand, a house where the ends in the corners are connected to the rest is more stable. In addition, it resists wind and rain better, it will be less swept up with snow in winter. And all taken together contributes to a more comfortable atmosphere inside the house. It is easier for a non-professional to make such a joint, therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience in building wooden houses, then it is better to choose this method for corner joints.

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Ways to connect corners with the remainder

Most often, for joining corners with the remainder, the “in oblo” type (into the bowl) is used. With this method, the bars are interconnected using locking grooves. Such grooves can be made single-line, double-sided and four-sided.

For the device of a single-line lock, a transverse notch is made at the junction at the end. The width of such a notch must exactly correspond to the cross section of the end. This method of corner connection is mainly used for profiled timber.

To make a double-sided lock, perpendicular cuts are made at the end on both sides for a quarter of its thickness. When assembling, the groove cuts join the groove. It is very important that the grooves match each other as closely as possible. A large mismatch in size will adversely affect the reliability of the connection as a whole. In addition, additional sealing of cracks is required.

If you need to join the beam at the corners as reliably as possible, use a four-sided lock. With it, cuts are made not from two, but from all four sides of the butt. If the grooves are made correctly, then the corner will be complex, like a designer. But you need to have a very high qualification to make them as accurate as possible.

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Ways to connect corners without residue

The simplest corner connection of this type is a butt joint. With this method, no cuts are needed - the bars are joined at the ends. The connection is fixed with metal plates using nails or staples. However, this method cannot guarantee sufficient tightness of the corners of the house, even with perfectly flat ends. Therefore, in the construction of residential buildings, it is practically not used.

The use of special dowels made of hard wood for connecting the ends allows you to make such connections much better. Special grooves are made in the end: in one beam, longitudinal at the very end, in the other, transverse not far from the end. When connecting, these grooves must match so that a key can be inserted into them. Without sufficient experience, it is better to stop at a perpendicular-parallel groove. For greater reliability, such grooves are made oblique by professionals.

Fastening with a root tenon is the most common type of corner assembly using a beam. A groove is made at the end of one of the bars, and the end of the other is sawn off, leaving a spike of the same size. When connecting, the spike enters the groove, thus fixing the connection. To make it even more reliable, not one, but several grooves and spikes are made at the ends.

Most secure fastening of this type - dovetail”, when the spike at the end is not made rectangular, but trapezoidal. Accordingly, a groove is made under this form at the end of the beam to be joined.

There are very important point which should not be forgotten. When using fasteners of the “thorn in the groove” type, in order to compensate for the future shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to leave vertical gaps between the groove and the thorn.

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Longitudinal beam connection

Longitudinal connection of the beam: a, c. half a tree; b, d. oblique cut. 1. Nagel. 2. Nest.

Since the standard length of a beam is 6 m, when building walls greater length there is a need to join the beam along the length. When choosing docking methods, it is necessary to take into account what kind of force and type of deformation the docking site will be subjected to in the future. Without taking into account these factors, it is impossible to properly join the timber.

The most common methods of this type of connection are half a tree, a longitudinal tenon on a key, a longitudinal root tenon, and an oblique lock.

If a compression force acts on the docking site, a half-tree docking is used. To join the beam along the length in this way, a rectangular groove is made on each beam for half its thickness. The length of the groove should be 2 or 3 times the width of the timber.

Then the grooves overlap each other. Such a connection is very unstable, so it must be fastened with nails and additionally reinforced with dowels - rods made of hard wood. The main task of the dowels is to exclude the possibility of displacement of the connected ends. Holes are drilled in the beams with a diameter corresponding to the thickness of the dowels, into which they are then inserted.

If a tearing force acts on the wall, it is necessary to join the timber along the length with the help of locks. For this, grooves are also made at a right angle, but in a different way. Such a groove is 2 times the width of the beam, while from the end the groove is made 1/4 of its thickness, and then deepens to 1/2. The resulting ledges interlock with each other. For greater reliability, they also need to be additionally strengthened with nails and dowels or used for fastening bolts.

Longitudinal connection of the beam: a, c. direct padlock; b, d. oblique overhead lock.

If the wall of the house will experience a strong “bending” force, then increased strength will be needed for the connection. Here, for reliable fixation, “oblique locks” are needed. This is the most difficult longitudinal connection in terms of execution, but it significantly surpasses all other types in terms of reliability.

The execution technique is the same as with the arrangement of conventional locking joints, only the cuts are made not even, but oblique. When using this connection, it is extremely important to accurately observe the proportions of the fasteners, since the quality of the joints depends on their accuracy. If possible, the place of such a connection is additionally reinforced with 2 building brackets, stuffing them crosswise.

Despite this variety of species, there are general rule to be performed. To rainwater did not accumulate in the connecting grooves, with outer side the walls of the beam must be rounded.

Also, regardless of the chosen docking method, it is desirable to process the docking site special composition, a mixture of epoxy wall and sand or sawdust. Joints treated in this way are more airtight, moreover, the resin glues the joined surfaces, giving them additional strength.

All these types of connections are described in detail in GOST 30974-2002. But this is not a dogma, but only recommendations. In the process of building a house from a bar, each developer must decide for himself which type of connection is suitable for his house in each case.

Good luck to you! Strong walls to your home!

Timber joints in the corners and straight walls of the house require strength and tightness. For tightness log house Humidity has a huge effect on building materials. If you build a house from a bar natural humidity, during shrinkage and shrinkage, the log house will experience significant internal stresses, which can lead to its deformations.

By using lumber that has been dried up to 20%, you can kill several problems in the bud at once - cracks, cracks, heavy draft, etc. Ideally, use profiled or glued laminated timber from lamellas for a log house chamber drying. The shrinkage of such a log house will be minimal.

The second method to avoid blowing corners is to make these corners with special, complex forms of connections.

The corners must be strong. The log house is affected by forces from possible ground movements, from its own weight and the weight of the roof, roof and snow, as well as pressure from the force of the wind. The corners must withstand all loads, and in addition, withstand deformations from fluctuations in linear dimensions due to rain, snow and changes in the heat and humidity regime.

Corner connection with remainder

Highly important advantages this type of cutting:

  • Blowing from the street is minimal, even with strong wind and in frost;
  • High reliability. Even not fixed with pins, the beams connected at the corners with one of the types of felling with the remainder do not move even with moderate movements of the base soils under the action of heaving or seismic. lower crowns holds the weight of the top and tightly connect the corners.

The main types of felling with residue

Cutting method with a one-sided locking groove

This method is equally good for both square timber and profiled. One side of the timber is sawn to form a groove perpendicular to the axis of the timber. The thickness of the groove is equal to half the thickness of the beam, the width and length of the groove are the same. The lock is obtained when this groove accommodates ½ of the timber located perpendicular to it. Such a crown is tightly fixed in relation to the underlying crown in one direction. Additional fixation with dowels gives the corner sufficient strength.

Cutting with a double-sided lock groove

This type of felling is a little more complicated - you will have to choose the grooves from both the upper edge of the beam and the bottom. The grooves in this case have the same width as with the method one-sided groove and a depth equal to ¼ of the thickness. Double sided grooving takes twice as long and requires more precision, but gives undeniable advantage- rigid fixation of each pair of bars not in one, but in two directions. That is, there is already spatial rigidity. Now, with any temperature and humidity fluctuations, the shift of bars and crowns relative to each other is practically impossible.

Cutting with a four-sided lock groove

A very complex cutting, the grooves can be both symmetrical and asymmetric, and it is extremely laborious to select such a complex groove manually. Typically, such complex grooves with ideal geometry are made on equipment that produces house kits. Then, at the construction site, these sets are assembled from numbered bars, like Lego constructors.

Complicated and expensive processing, but no practical improvement in the tightness of the corner is observed, although in theory such an angle should become completely ideal.

The main types of felling without residue

An angle without residue saves on lumber. The beam is entirely in the plane of the wall, the ends do not protrude outward. But overall savings are not observed, since these corners require additional insulation and caulking. In terms of strength, reliability and protection against blowing, these types of felling are also inferior to corners felled with the rest. Only a warm corner, which is also a root spike, can compete.

Cutting without residue allows you to make the facade of the house more strict geometrically, it is easier to perform exterior finish. The issue of aesthetics is debatable, and more related to style.

Without a trace, corners are cut both from a square bar and from a profiled one.

Butt cutting without residue

The simplest and fast way for the construction of a farm building. None additional processing not required, just stack the bars of the desired lengths in a checkerboard pattern. So that the bars in the crowns and the crowns themselves do not move relative to each other, with this cutting method, fasteners are necessarily used - galvanized steel overhead plates, steel brackets or wooden dowels.

Labor costs in this case are minimal, carpentry experience may be completely absent. If you make a log house in this way from dried timber, you can get an acceptable result. From raw lumber, as carpenters say, with any effort, the corner will walk after shrinkage. The corner is deformed, and fluctuations in humidity will contribute to linear fluctuations, as a result, blown gaps will appear.

Butt cutting on dowels

The key can be different shapes. For a straight key, you will need to choose straight grooves along the ends and side surfaces of adjacent bars. Under the dovetail key, it is required to choose a rather complex groove, with broadenings from the middle. The key also has complex shape.

The connection with a straight key will prevent the crown bars from moving in the horizontal plane, but not in the vertical one. Vertically, the crowns will be held only by their own weight and the weight of the overlying structures. The dovetail key will securely fix the angle and prevent the bars from moving in both directions. This method of cutting without residue gives a practically windproof corner.

Cutting in half a tree

Also an easy cut. At the ends of the bars, cuts are made for ½ thickness, a spike is obtained that is the same in length and width. Without fixing with dowels, this connection will not be reliable. After shrinkage and settlement of the log house, the corner will most likely be blown through and will require additional insulation. The second caulk of log cabins after exposure and precipitation is always done.

As with butt cutting, you can modify this method by securing the corners with dowels. In this case, the bars will not move.

You can still improve the method of cutting into half a tree, if you join the ends into a paw. The paw has a more complex shape - the cuts are made oblique, wedge-shaped, exactly in size. The result is an increase in the strength of the log house, the beams are fixed relative to each other in the crowns, and the weight of the overlying crowns prevents the displacement of the underlying ones. The corner looks aesthetically pleasing from the inside and outside, the facade of the house is geometric, smooth.

Connection in a warm corner (in a root spike)

It is considered the warmest, windproof connection and at the same time guarantees the fixation of the crowns. The method is not the most difficult:

The ends are cut, leaving spikes, and the length and width of which should be exactly 1/3 of the beam section. A simpler spike has the shape of a rectangle, a more difficult one has a spike with one-sided widening. The grooves of the joined beams are selected according to the size of these spikes, but without an exact fit, since the grooves need to be caulked with moss, linen or jute fiber, hemp or felt. Bars with spikes are upset from above on bars with grooves. Fastening crowns with dowels this method felling is a must.

Fastening the beams with dowels

  • The classic wood for dowels is birch, free of defects, knots and slant, and also with a parallel arrangement of fibers relative to the longitudinal axis.
  • The optimal length of the dowels is 0.8 of the sum of the heights of the two connected crowns. Sometimes not two, but three beams are connected with one dowel. Dowel diameters from 25 to 35 mm.
  • Nagels are installed in the interval up to 1.5 m, and always on both sides of each corner. On the horizontal rows, the dowels are shifted in a checkerboard pattern.

Connections of bars along the length

Long, straight sections of walls can exceed the length of the lumber. The splicing of the timber along the length is done in one plane. The requirements for joints are the same as for corners - strength and tightness.

The easiest way to join a beam along the length is a connection on rectangular dowels. The crowns will be securely fixed in the transverse direction, such a joint will not be blown. The key is cut a little less than the groove to leave gaps for the caulk. The grooves for the dowel are sealed with moss, jute and linen fiber, and other material.

Harder and more efficient way joining the beams with a root spike. Direct splicing is technologically a little simpler than angular splicing, but it also requires accuracy. The gaps between the groove and the spike should be several mm in order to pave them with a caulk.

The most complex, costly in terms of material and labor, and at the same time the best type of splicing in a straight line in terms of result is docking with an oblique lock. Dimensions must be accurate, fit close to perfect. The lock configuration is not easy. As a result, two beams have two completely overlapped sections in the joint, which gives strength to the joint, and the cunning shape of the oblique lock makes it impossible for a gap to appear even with significant shrinkage.

The truss system is the most complex and one of the most critical elements of the house; the comfort and operating time of the building largely depend on the correctness of its construction. Calculation and design of the truss system should be done only experienced builders or engineers with special training.

Designing a wooden truss system is much more difficult than any metal constructions. Why? In nature, there are no two boards with exactly the same strength indicators, this parameter is influenced by a lot of factors.


The metal has the same properties, which depend only on the steel grade. The calculations will be accurate, the error is minimal. With a tree, everything is much more complicated. In order to minimize the risks of destruction of the system, it is necessary to give a large margin of safety. Most decisions are made directly by the builders on site after assessing the condition of the lumber and taking into account the design features. Practical experience is very important.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Why you need to splice rafters

There are several reasons why splicing rafters is required.

  1. Roof length exceeds standard lumber length. Standard length boards do not exceed six meters. If the slope is large, then the boards will have to be lengthened.
  2. During construction remains a lot good boards 3–4 m long. To downgrade estimated cost buildings and reduce the amount of unproductive waste, these pieces can be used to make rafters, having previously spliced ​​them.

Important. It must be remembered that the strength of spliced ​​rafters is always lower than that of whole ones. It is necessary to try to ensure that the splicing point is located as close as possible to the vertical stops.

Splicing methods

There are several ways to splice, there is definitely no better or worse. Masters make decisions based on their skills and the specific location of the joint.

Table. Methods for splicing rafters.

splicing methodBrief description of technology

It is used on boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm. Enough complicated method requires hands-on carpentry experience. In terms of strength, the connection is the weakest of all existing ones. Advantage - saving lumber. Practically at construction sites it is used very rarely.

Length rafter legs increases with the overlay. The lining can be wooden or metal. If the length of the two segments of the boards is insufficient in terms of the parameters of the truss system, then this method allows them to be increased. Butt joint has the highest bending strength, is widely used during the construction of various structures.

Overlap. Two boards are fixed with an overlap. The simplest method, in terms of strength, occupies a middle position. Flaw - total length two boards should be more than the design length of the rafter leg.

In this article, we will look at two of the simplest and most reliable splicing methods: butt and overlap. It makes no sense to touch the oblique cut, it is almost never used due to the large number of shortcomings.

Requirements of building codes and rules for splicing rafters

Inept splicing of rafters along the length can not only dramatically reduce their resistance to bending loads, but also cause complete destruction of the structure. The consequences of this situation are very sad. Building regulations provide for certain patterns during the selection of fastener sizes, places for its installation and the length of the overlays. The data are taken taking into account many years of practical experience.

Spliced ​​rafters will be much stronger if metal studs rather than nails are used to connect them. The instruction will help to make an independent calculation of the connection. The advantage of the method is its versatility, it can be used to solve problems not only with lengthening the rafters, but also with building up other roof elements. Specialized companies performed rough calculations and collected data in a table, but it only indicates the minimum acceptable parameters.

  1. Stud diameter and length. In all cases, the diameter of the studs must be ≥ 8 mm. Thinner ones do not have sufficient strength, it is not recommended to use them. Why? AT metal connections the diameter of the studs is calculated for tensile forces. During contraction metal surfaces pressed against each other so strongly that they are held by friction. AT wooden structures the pin is bending. Separate boards cannot be pulled with great effort, the pucks fall into the board. In addition, during changes in relative humidity, the boards change thickness, thereby reducing the tightening force. Studs working in bending must have big size. The specific diameter of the stud must be determined by the formula dw = 0.25×S, where S is the thickness of the board. For example, for a board with a thickness of 40 mm, the diameter of the stud should be 10 mm. Although this is all rather relative, you need to keep in mind the specific loads, and they depend on many factors.

  2. Board overlap length. This parameter should always be four times the width of the boards. If the width of the rafters is 30 cm, then the length of the overlap cannot be less than 1.2 m. We have already mentioned that the specific decision is made by the master, taking into account the condition of the lumber, the angle of the rafters, the distance between them, the weight roofing materials and climatic zone of the building location. All these parameters have a great influence on the stability of the truss system.

  3. Distance between stud holes. Fasteners are recommended to be fixed at a distance of at least seven diameters of the studs, from the edge of the board the distance should be at least three diameters. These are the minimum figures, in practice it is recommended to increase them. But it all depends on the width of the board. It is impossible to reduce the distance between the rows of studs too much by increasing the distance from the edge.

  4. Number of tie rods. There are quite complex formulas, but in practice they are not used. Masters install two rows of studs, taking into account the distance between them, the holes are staggered.

Home » Materials for construction and repair » Lumber » How to connect two beams in length: the recommendations of the masters and step by step instructions

During the construction of buildings various kinds wooden beam there are situations when it is necessary to use not individual parts, but a composite element, since the length of the standard fragment is not enough. In this case, it is necessary to connect the beam to each other along the length.

This operation is quite often carried out if the wall of the building being erected is longer than six meters. In this article, we will discuss the types of longitudinal connection of timber during the construction of a house, and also talk about how to carry out this procedure yourself.

Types of timber splicing in length

The regulated length of an ordinary wooden element for the construction of timber buildings is six meters. To obtain parts of large dimensions, you must use one of the following connection methods:

  • longitudinal connection using a key and a spike;
  • oblique lock;
  • longitudinal connection of the beam between a radical spike;
  • butt joint;
  • connection in half a tree.

Dowel joint

Dowel joint

This type of splicing wooden elements considered the most reliable and strong. It is he who is most often used during the construction of buildings from various types of timber. The principle of connecting the timber in this case is very simple - in two elements you need to make exactly the same grooves. After that, the machined parts are laid next to each other so that the grooves are in contact and a key is driven into this groove.

The key is an insert, a kind of wedge, which is made of hardwood. For a wooden beam, an aspen part should be used. After falling into the prepared grooves, this element securely fastens the two beams to each other. Pins may vary geometric shape and be:

  • straight;
  • rectangular;
  • notched;
  • prismatic;
  • in the form of a dovetail.

Connection in an oblique lock

Connection in a straight and oblique lock

Experts call this splicing method the most difficult. Such a connection is extremely difficult for a person without proper qualifications or experience. However, the reliability of the resulting design is really worth the effort. Companies that build timber buildings are well aware of how to connect two timbers in length in this way, but they often remain silent about it in order to save time and maintain high level performance.

So, first of all, it is necessary to cut oblique elements from the ends of the wooden part. In this case, a certain angle must be observed, the necessary bends must be repeated, and the dimensions must be fully consistent. The result should be some kind of spike and groove, which ultimately form an oblique lock. After that, the two beams must be connected by attaching the treated places to each other. To achieve maximum reliability and strength of the connection, special wooden dowels are used.

Connection in root tenon

This type of connection is a key connection and it is also better to entrust its implementation to specialists in this field. The fact is that the operation is not so much complicated as it requires the worker to be qualified and have certain skills in working with wood. To carry out this operation, you should drink a groove on one edge of the wooden element, and a spike on the second. This must be done at an angle of 45 degrees.

This type of splicing differs from all others in its shape. Most often this method used for arranging the corners of the building. Grooves and spikes in shape strongly resemble a trapezoid, and eventually form a "dovetail". To achieve greater strength and durability, the connection should be strengthened with dowels.

The connection of the beam in the root tenon and analogues

It's important to know! If you use this type of splicing, then it is important to ensure that one beam does not mix in a horizontal plane from the second.

Splicing "tree floor"

This type of connection of wooden elements during the construction of buildings from a bar involves cutting a corner in a bar to the middle of it cross section. In one part, the bittern should turn out with an angle down, and in the second, respectively, with an angle up.

After the preparatory procedures, the wooden elements should be laid on top of each other. The main disadvantage of this type of connection is that at the splicing points, the wooden beam significantly loses its thickness, which means that its performance decreases.

Unlike the above methods, this one is the simplest. It does not require special training or rich experience, so it can be done independently. After splicing the timber in this way, it should be additionally fastened with wooden dowels.

Connection in half a tree and an oblique cut

Splicing by applying

This splicing method is perfect for those who are not very concerned about the appearance of the structure, as well as its durability. Its principle is to attach two beams to each other and put a metal bracket on the junction. Of course, this splicing method cannot be called heavy-duty, so it needs to be strengthened. For this, fasteners are used, which are driven into an already laid row of wooden elements, as well as into contact zones.

By clicking on this link http://vse-postroim-sami.ru/materials/lumber/1219_kak-krepit-brus-k-brusu/ you will learn how to fasten timber to timber. This article describes how to attach the beam to the base of the house. AT recent times the construction of houses from a bar became very popular.

Now you know how to connect the beam to each other along the length different ways. Now let's talk about how to choose the right method for connecting wooden elements.

How to choose the right connection

Connections that do not require calculations and skills can be made independently, but this splicing method is not distinguished by high strength and durability. Of course, it can be strengthened with special fasteners, which we wrote about above, but stronger connections still win in terms of performance.

Due to the relatively low strength, such joints cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing wall structures. Any professional builder will not use material with a non-solid structure for such purposes. Only in the event that neither order nor purchase wooden elements of the required length is a longitudinal connection allowed. However, in this case, the structures lose some of their parameters, including durability.

Correctly connected bars

For the construction of buildings from glued or any other timber, splicing on spikes and dowels is best suited. The resulting design is almost as good as a solid wooden part, so it can be used for any purpose. The connection is rigid and durable, and therefore can last quite a long time.

It's important to know! In this type of splicing, the fastener, the dowel, plays a huge role. Therefore, when choosing it, you should not chase cheapness, but buy a really high-quality product.

Thanks to high degree the rigidity of the connection, as well as its reliability, many experts recommend splicing into an oblique lock. The timber obtained after joining can be used for the construction of load-bearing wall structures. The only problem you will face is the complexity of the work.

Such a connection will require an experienced worker who knows how to wield all necessary tools, and if you are not, then it is better to leave this venture. A qualified specialist is able to carry out such splicing, but he will require about 1,100 rubles for work for one connection. On the other hand, these costs can pay off, since you do not have to order new wooden elements of non-standard length.

Features of joining profiled material

Contrary to popular belief, profiled material can also be joined lengthwise. All aspects of such operations are regulated by GOST 30974-2002. The requirement given in this documentation cannot be called mandatory. They are rather used for corner or curly joints of profiled wooden elements.

It's important to know! When buying a material, be sure to ask the seller for a quality certificate that confirms that the material meets the requirements of GOST.

Profiled timber connection

According to these documents, spliced ​​profiled timber can be used for the construction of the following structures:

  • internal wall structures, as well as all simple partitions(the length of the beam is from 8 to 22 centimeters);
  • external load-bearing wall structures (the length of the beam is from 10 to 2 centimeters).

The connection of the profiled timber along the length suggests the presence of chamfers in this design. They are needed to drain fluid from the joints. These elements should have dimensions of 2 by 2 centimeters or 1.5 by 1.5 centimeters. Usually, professional builders use the "dovetail" for splicing the wooden elements of the building being erected.

What you need to know for longitudinal docking with your own hands

As we said above, the need to connect wooden parts during the construction of a building from this material, appears when project documentation construction of one or more wall structures with a length of more than 6 meters is envisaged. The binding must be done first on one side, and in the next row on the other, and so on until the end.

This is necessary to obtain an attractive and original appearance, because the joints, which are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, look more interesting than those in a row. In addition, this arrangement makes the entire wall structure much stronger and more durable.

When choosing a method for connecting wooden elements, you should pay attention to Special attention on how exactly the beam is located in the building structure. The whole problem is the load on these elements, because in different parts walls, it can be different, for example, a beam can be subject to tension, compression or deflection.

Types of longitudinal connections

All additional fasteners must be made exclusively from hardwood. The moisture content of these elements must correspond to the moisture content of the timber itself and not exceed five percent. If the parts have more or less moisture than the material itself, then the connection will be fragile or the part may damage the material.

Each joint must be perfectly flat. Before laying the spliced ​​beams, it is necessary to impregnate them with antiseptic compounds and allow some time to dry.

Each joint, including corner or longitudinal, must be insulated layer thermal insulation material. This procedure is best done during installation. To do this, it is enough to overlay the connection with flax fiber.

It is very important to remember the moisture content of the material during splicing. If the products are dried out, then after a while significant defects may form in the joints, which will lead to extremely backfire. Additional strengthening of the joints must be carried out with special responsibility.

If we are talking about profiled material, then in this case it is better to use such types of connections as a spike or an oblique lock. So wall structures will not lose reliability. And if you do all the work scrupulously, then connecting nodes will be not only reliable and safe, but also attractive in appearance. Now you know how to connect the timber in length and will be able to cope with this task without the involvement of craftsmen.

Healthy? Save yourself to the wall! Thank you for like!

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