How to insulate a wooden shed. Insulation of a barn with large slots
A shed for chickens is like a house for a person. That is why it should be comfortable, cozy and, of course, warm so that birds can stay in it both in warm and cold seasons. It should be borne in mind that their productivity will depend on the living conditions of the chickens. How to insulate a poultry shed for the winter from the inside? What materials are better to use for this? This will be discussed further (see video).
Construction of a "warm" facility
Of course, the best option would be to build a barn immediately with insulation. Most often it is built from gas or foam blocks, which store heat by themselves, but this option will not be the cheapest. To save money, the structure can be erected from wood concrete. The material is a mixture of cement, wood shavings and sawdust. With its help, you can create a building of any size and it does not require a solid foundation, since the wood concrete is quite lightweight.
Despite the indisputable advantages of wood concrete, it has one drawback - it does not tolerate strong moisture well. That is why the erected walls must be finished with plaster mortar, as well as a waterproofing layer, for example, with roofing material. A barn floor can be made of wood, which is quite warm in itself. In order for chickens to rush in winter, it is best to make perches from the same tree and at the same time insulate them with straw.
Simple insulation methods
Sometimes it happens that it is impossible to immediately think about insulating the barn. In this case, it will be possible to do this just before winter. A mixture of straw, clay and sawdust is often used for these purposes. You can insulate a wooden structure for chickens by plastering it from the inside. To do this, nails are driven into the walls, between which a thread or wire is pulled, forming a mesh. This is necessary for greater durability of the plaster. The applied layer of mortar should be no more than 5 centimeters thick, otherwise it will not adhere well.
The previous methods are good if the winter in the region is not too harsh. Otherwise, to insulate the shed from the inside, it will be necessary to use foam or mineral wool (see photo). For thermal insulation of the room with mineral wool, first, wooden slats must be nailed onto the walls. They should be placed strictly vertically and at a distance from each other slightly less than the width of the roll of insulation material. In this case, they will completely cover the surface, and they will not need to be additionally fixed. Finally, the surface is sheathed with plywood sheets, which can be attached to wooden slats with self-tapping screws. When insulating a barn for chickens from the inside with foam, you need to remember that birds are likely to peck at it. Therefore, it will need to be either trimmed or sheathed with the walls from the outside.
Use of scrap materials
To quickly insulate a chicken shed, any available materials, for example, straw, will come in handy. To do this, you just need to sketch it on the floor. In the same way, you can insulate the floor with old clothes. If the frosts in the region are too strong, you can build a small brick stove in the chicken coop, as, for example, in the photo. It is highly discouraged to use metal in this case, because it heats up very much, and chickens can burn themselves against it. For greater practicality, the stove can be made with a cooking area where you can cook food for poultry and animals that are on the farm. It is recommended to heat such a structure with wood.
Another way
You can also insulate the walls of the barn in another way. For this you will need:
- wooden boards;
- hammer;
- nails;
- sand;
- clay;
- construction float;
- any medium-sized vessel;
- bars 5x5 centimeters;
- sawdust.
Wooden planks are nailed to the wall surface at a 45 degree angle starting from the top left corner. They should be placed at some distance from each other. After the entire surface is filled with them, in the same way they must be attached with a slope to the other side so that rhombuses are formed. Next, you need to make a mixture of water, sawdust and clay. Stir them so that the consistency of liquid sour cream is formed. After preparation, the solution needs to be infused for some time.
After all the above work, you can start plastering the surface with the resulting mixture. To do this, it must be typed and spread first at the bottom of the wall, gently leveling, smoothly moving up. A layer of plaster mortar, in order to qualitatively insulate the chicken shed, should be at least 5 centimeters. Particular attention must be paid to the corners of the structure. After the entire surface is plastered, it must be allowed time to dry. This may take several days. If cracks appear on the surface of the walls during this time, they will need to be carefully repaired with a mixture of sand and clay. Then the walls will need to be leveled a little with a construction float.
Often, on a small farm or in a subsidiary farm, for the winter, it is required to insulate a room that contains a bird or animals. Most often, such buildings are made of lightweight materials - plywood or board panels. Of course, such walls cannot withstand the winter frosts. Insulation of the chicken coop is very important, it not only allows you to maintain the required temperature, but also reduces the amount of electricity consumed for heating. So, how to insulate a chicken coop with your own hands?
So, how to insulate the chicken coop so that the chickens do not get sick and endure the winter well? Natural materials are most often used on the floor - straw, hay or wood shavings.
It is better to insulate the habitat of chickens with natural materials.
- lime;
- boric acid;
- copper sulfate.
Any of these substances are added to the mixture in a ratio of 1 to 10 to the base material.
In order to insulate the shields with shavings, straw or hay, you need to make the mixture stronger by adding cement in a ratio of 1 to 10. Antiseptics are added to the resulting solution, and then everything is mixed with the required amount of insulating material. This mixture should be placed in the shields until it is dry. When the insulation hardens, it will become strong enough.
If you are using straw or hay, it is advisable to use materials about 30 cm long. Such material will better keep the hen house warm.
Instead of natural materials, foam plastic can be used as insulation, it is quite cheap and easy to use. However, there are some nuances here - because of the foam, the vapor permeability of the walls is disturbed, and the wood begins to rot, and eventually mold. However, for a chicken coop this is not such a serious problem.
How to insulate doors and windows
Most of the heat escapes from the room through doors and windows. Based on this, the most attention should be paid to door and window openings. How to properly insulate a chicken coop? Thermal insulation is very important. If there are windows, a second glass must be installed. Another effective way to insulate window openings is to use plastic wrap, which is attached to the strips at a distance of 1.5 cm from the glass.
Most of the heat escapes from the room through doors and windows.
It is imperative to use a sealant, it is necessary to seal up all the gaps in the frames and windows.
Additional insulation will require a contour from the side of the window hinges. For this purpose, you can adapt both a self-adhesive store insulation and a felt strip, which is nailed to the frame.
If the chicken coop is in the design process, make sure that the windows are small in advance - the larger the glass area, the more intense the heat loss. One small window on the sunny side is enough - on the east or south wall. For the winter, you can put double frames, and in the summer you can replace them with a regular mosquito net or one layer of glass.
In order to insulate a shed for chickens with the onset of cold weather, the windows must be insulated with a special plastic film, which in the future will prevent them from freezing in winter. The film does not at all interfere with the penetration of sunlight into the hen house.
The door is also better placed in the south, so even in winter it will be possible to open it slightly to ventilate the chicken coop. The doorway, like the window, should not be too large.
However, keep in mind that it should be convenient for you to carry out all the necessary work on caring for the bird and maintaining the chicken coop in proper shape - changing the litter on the floor, cleaning, removing manure, etc.
The door must be insulated. In severe frosts, the doorway is additionally hung with a carpet or an old carpet. The doorway can be insulated using a dense foil insulation.
Ceiling insulation
A well-insulated chicken coop also implies insulation of the ceiling. Particular attention is paid to the attic floor. For insulation, a vapor barrier is used, which can be replaced with ordinary dense polyethylene. Without such a layer, the insulation will get very wet. The material is laid on the ceiling with an overlap with the obligatory approach to the walls.
When choosing insulation for the ceiling, decide for yourself whether you are going to store anything in the attic. If not, then ordinary hay is enough, the optimal layer thickness is 25 cm. If you need to go to the attic often, it is better to put the crate over the insulation.
Foam plates can be laid without using a crate, and boards or chipboard sheets can be laid on top of it, so that it is convenient to walk.
How and what to insulate the walls
A warm shed for chickens is unthinkable without good thermal insulation of the walls. Plank walls are insulated in several layers - from the inside and outside. The inside needs a vapor-proof layer, and the outside is more "breathable" material. If there is no additional layer of heat insulator on the inside of the walls, straw can be used.
Outside, vertical beams are installed every 60 cm, the thickness of the beam should be 12 cm.
These beams act as lathing, which is then filled with natural insulation mixed with cement. The top layer is facing and serves for decorative purposes. You should definitely think about the waterproofing of the walls, so it would be good to treat the facade with a water-repellent solution.
If foam is used to insulate the walls, it is necessary to seal the gaps between the plates well.
Foam boards are attached to the walls with glue and then additionally covered with plywood sheets. If desired, the walls can be painted in any color or varnished. It is best to use foam no thinner than 10 cm.
Floor insulation
Most often, the floor in a chicken coop or barn is ordinary compacted soil, covered from above, for example, with straw. It is very easy to insulate the floor, for this it is enough to lay a layer of hay or wood shavings. It is important to remember about the timely cleaning of the contaminated layer, turn it over and change it to a new one.
In winter, the soil is a natural source of heat, which allows you to maintain a positive temperature. In order for the chicken coop to be warm due to the heat of the earth, it is necessary to insulate the soil around the perimeter of the structure, taking into account the depth of soil freezing - the width should be the same.
As a heater, you can use polystyrene foam, digging it close to the foundation of the poultry house.
First you need to dig in the foundation, and then fix the foam
However, this option is quite costly and is not suitable for everyone. You can use regular straw by laying a layer 20 cm thick on a roofing felt backing. From above, straw or hay is covered with sloping shields that protect the insulation from snow and rain. An even simpler option is only a half-meter layer of hay, covered with boards. Then, even in its raw form, such a layer will provide the necessary insulation.
Heating devices
Insulation of a chicken coop implies not only the presence of insulated walls, floor and ceiling, but also heaters. What devices are suitable for the poultry house:
- diesel ovens or conventional wood-burning or coal-fired stoves;
- electric heating radiators;
- incandescent lamps.
Diesel stoves are the most economical and fire safe heating option. Moreover, they do not emit smoke. Depending on the size of the chicken coop, several such ovens may be needed, each unit heats only a specific section of the room.
Modern type of heating equipment
Buleryan stoves, operating on any type of solid fuel, are quite economical to use and evenly heat up the space.
Solid fuel stoves are a convenient heating medium
Solid fuel stoves are gaining in popularity.
But before insulating the chicken coop with electrical appliances, make sure that no chicken can get to the wires and hot surfaces of the heaters themselves. Failure to comply with safety precautions threatens the death of birds.
The most economical in terms of energy consumption are infrared heating devices. In some models, you can independently adjust the room temperature. It is enough to set the maximum temperature, and the device will automatically turn off as soon as the air in the room becomes warm enough.
However, the simplest option for heating a chicken coop is incandescent lamps covered with mesh caps. In order not to be mistaken with the power of the lamps, it is necessary to take into account such factors as:
- outside air temperature;
- poultry house area.
The most economical way to insulate a chicken coop
Some may think that only heating appliances are enough to insulate the chicken coop, and the fuss with the insulation of walls, floors, door and window openings can be avoided. In fact, when deciding how to make a warm chicken coop, you need to combine both options. With poor thermal insulation, most of the heat will go into the external environment, which will immediately cause an overspending of electricity. An insulated room and the absence of drafts are not only a guarantee of heat, but will also reduce utility costs.
It is necessary to insulate the barn for chickens before the first frost, because otherwise the bird, due to the cold, may at least stop laying eggs, and in the worst case, hypothermia will lead to illness and death of chickens.
Many people use moss peat to insulate their coop.
It is necessary to insulate the shed for chickens before the first frost.
Not only is it an environmentally friendly material, it also absorbs moisture and chicken droppings, preventing odors from spreading. Moss peat is excellent as floor insulation in a winter chicken coop. Birds, moving on such a moss floor, will not wet their paws, which means that the risk of diseases in winter will significantly decrease. Such peat can be reused as fertilizer for plants on the site.
In addition to moss peat, you can use a mixture of wood shavings and sawdust in a ratio of 3 to 1. It is best to use conifers because they keep the heat inside the barn best and are also a good prophylactic against a number of bird diseases.
A well-made and insulated chicken coop will not take a lot of effort and financial investment. You can insulate a shed for chickens on your own, without resorting to outside help. Despite the fact that the materials are quite cheap, it will take a lot of effort and time. However, the more thoroughly the work is done, the higher the quality will be.
Coop insulation video
How to insulate a door in a barn with your own hands - a master class with a photo
See my master class with step-by-step photos on how to insulate a door in a barn with your own hands.
Hello everyone!
So, I already wrote about how to build a barn from sleepers with my own hands, but as it turned out that one barn is not enough for me ...
In general, it was like this ...
I built a shed and attached a woodshed, a charcoal box to it, and all rubbish was still kept there. The barn was not enough for me, and I decided to insulate this building and use it as a second additional barn (this will be a little later in another article on the construction of a bull barn) and there was a door that was not insulated.
I decided, of course, to insulate it, so that later it would be possible, they are not afraid that my bulls will freeze!
For this I needed:
Boards (Slab) and 2-3 bars 5 cm thick and at least 10 cm wide, and 2 or 3 pieces it will depend on how many awnings there will be! See below.
Insulation type "Ecover" or "Ursa"
Nails or screws ... as anyone. I've used both.
Canopies 2 or 3 pieces (if you cut the boards, then it is better to plant a door on 3 canopies, because it will add weight).
5 meters of roofing material or film / oilcloth.
Furniture stapler and staples
So let's get started!
For those who wish to assemble such a door from scratch, I will tell you right away ... THE SIZES are EVERYTHING! If you have shifted a little, check and immediately correct your shortcomings, otherwise the whole door will lead, so you yourself will not be happy and you will start to remember me 😉
We insulate the door in the barn with our own hands
I had such a door in a barn
And this is the thickness
We take the bars and stuff them around the perimeter of the door so that it would then fit into the opening.
And we check the whole thing! Now that we have filled in, we begin to measure the boards.
We take the boards along the width of the door and nail them with a "pocket" so that the insulation would then fit between the boards.
This is how it should look like!
Then we stuff them on all the doors, gradually installing insulation between the boards.
It should look like this:
Now all the cracks must be covered with polyurethane foam. Then cut off the excess foam with a knife.
When everything is finished, we cover it all with a film, oilcloth or roofing felt (whatever the first comes to hand).
This is so that in winter, when the temperature will vary greatly, our insulation does not get wet, does not stick together and does not become unusable in one season!
Then we install the handles and nail the plinths, which will protect the animals from strong drafts.
The skirting board should cover the gap between the door and the jamb, so that the wind could not "dig" the road.
Everything! Now I will explain a little why my door is so crooked. In general, so ...
I live in a village, there is not much money, and then I also have to buy food. So it turned out that a friend told me that near our sawmill they were selling cheap boards "not in good condition" ...
If you process them, then nothing will remain in width, so I decided to do it this way! Whoever has the opportunity, do it cleanly, then you will have less drafts!
Thank you all for your attention. Gorod_Omsk was with you! I wish everyone everything that I would wish for myself!
www.sami-svoimi-rukami.ru
How to insulate a barn with your own hands - ways without high costs + Video
Living in a private home opens up new opportunities. Vegetables and fruits grown by oneself are many times tastier than the market ones! And homemade eggs are just right for vegetables, and milk for eggs ... But where to keep the animals? All structures on the site are used, including unadapted ones. In this article, we will consider options for how to insulate a barn at no extra cost with our own hands.
Construction and insulation - we act outside the barn
Villagers hardly need to be told what pets are and how to care for them. But yesterday's "urban", who decided to move closer to nature, everything is new! As a rule, chickens are the first on the list of pets, not counting dogs and cats. In spring and summer, it is not at all difficult to look after them, the main thing is to provide quality food and a shelter where they can hide from the sun. But in winter, the question is different - you cannot invite a chicken "gang" led by a pugnacious rooster to the house for the whole winter, and in the tool shed the animals will simply freeze.
The issue should be resolved quickly and efficiently. And, as everyone thought at that moment, it is desirable - inexpensive. Even a leaky tool shed can be turned into a warm room for the winter with your own hands. The easiest option is to knock down a wooden frame from the boards, hollow inside.
How to insulate a barn outside with your own hands - a step by step scheme
Step 1: create a frame for the walls
The back wall of the frame will be the already existing surface of the walls, and we will hammer the front wall from the boards. Even not quite even ones will come in handy. But what about the cracks? There is one tried and tested trick - the boards are overlapped! First, two boards are nailed to the bars, between which there is a distance for the third. Insert the middle so that the upper part goes under the first board, and the lower part covers the second board on top. The result will be a “herringbone” through which no wind will break through. The advantage of this design is that it is protected from drying out, because if we simply knit the boards together, sooner or later, large gaps would form between them.
Step 2: fill the frame with insulation
The space between the parallel walls can be insulated with your own hands in different ways. If funds permit, buy mineral wool or blow out the voids with polyurethane foam. However, initially we agreed to save money, which means it's time to remember the winter insulation methods used by our grandfathers and grandmothers. What could be easier than sawdust! The material is almost gratuitous - at least heaps of this stuff on the nearest sawmill, you bargain for a bottle of something stronger with the watchman.
It is advisable to take dry and small sawdust. To prevent rodents from getting in them, it is enough to mix wood with fluff lime - 1 part of lime is enough for 25 parts of sawdust. When insulating with sawdust, the space between the parallel walls should be at least 25 cm. The prepared material is poured in layers, constantly ramming. Over the next two weeks, the insulation will still shrink - do not forget to add more sawdust after a while.
Step 3: insulate the ceiling
In the case of the ceiling, the same frame is created. But unlike the walls, a layer of high-quality waterproofing is also laid on top of the thermal insulation. Just covering with slate or tiles is not enough, between them there must be a layer of roofing material or plastic wrap. The most important thing at all stages is to prevent the penetration of moisture into the sawdust. To prevent this from happening, many people pack sawdust in plastic bags, and only then carefully place them in the space between the walls.
Step 4: insulate the floor
To insulate the floor with your own hands, it is important to make an embankment of soil with a height of at least 10 cm over the main level. Then clay is poured and compacted. The disadvantage of this method is the dirt, which will forever be inside the barn. If you want to make a clean and durable warm floor, it is recommended that instead of a soil embankment, make an expanded clay embankment and pour a cement-sand screed over it. Only this should be done in advance, in the warm season.
Shingles - an environmentally friendly way
Clay and straw is another budget option for do-it-yourself insulation, which, moreover, is absolutely safe from the point of view of the environment. To this day, adobe (lamp, roll, adobe block) is made from clay and straw - clay bricks that combine both insulation and the basis for the walls of the shed. Straw mixed with clay acts as a reinforcing material so that the clay does not crack or crumble.
Under a layer of plaster, adobe can serve for many decades. So if you intend to build a barn for the winter from scratch, consider this budget option. Clay bricks in villages used to be made by all relatives - there will be a reason to get together. If the barn has already been built, the clay and straw option is still relevant. Do-it-yourself shed insulation should be carried out from the inside - a mixture of materials is applied to a previously prepared shingle.
Shingles - wooden planks stuffed from the inside of the room. First, one layer of planks is stuffed diagonally, and then the second in the opposite direction. To prepare the solution, first soak the clay (the consistency of sour cream) and add straw in portions. The resulting solution must be thick enough so that it does not slide off the surface. Let the mixture sit a little before starting work.
The clay mixture is applied to the walls with your own hands from the bottom up. Layer thickness - at least 3 cm. Use a trowel to make it easier to level. At the corners, the layer thickness can be increased up to 5 cm by rounding them. When dry, cracks may appear - this is not scary. They should be covered with a solution of clay and sand (1: 2). The final stage is the whitewashing of the walls with lime.
How to insulate a barn - we work from the inside
Shingles, although a budget option, will take you a lot of time. If you value your time, then instead of budget options, you can use more costly, but also more efficient in terms of speed of work. These include the option of insulation with mineral wool and foam. There is no point in talking about the advantages of materials - we have already talked about this more than once in articles devoted to these heat insulators. Let's recall the disadvantages - mineral wool is easily saturated with moisture, as a result of which it loses its thermal insulation qualities, and also cakes over time.
Polyfoam is devoid of these shortcomings, but it has little strength and needs additional protection from curious animals.
When insulating with mineral wool in a checkerboard pattern, nails are stuffed onto the walls to create a reinforcing mesh. Rolls of mineral insulation are unwound and laid on the walls, while a reinforcing mesh is created with the help of a rope, which will hold the cotton wool in the desired position. The mesh is not necessary if you use hard or semi-rigid boards instead of soft rolls. But in this case, you will need to make a crate of boards with your own hands.
The distance between the boards should correspond to the width of the slabs, and even be a couple of millimeters smaller so that the slabs fit tightly into the space. How to insulate a barn with mineral wool for the winter? The secret is to prevent the material from getting wet due to moisture condensation.... Therefore, a layer of vapor barrier is stuffed on top of the insulation - glassine or more modern membrane options.
Foam insulation inside the barn is even easier. If the base is strong, you can glue the insulation plates with your own hands on any available glue, even on ordinary PVA. Both polyurethane foam and liquid nails will do. For greater strength, you can fix the boards together with the adhesive base using special dowels. In any case, after this, it is imperative to protect the material from mechanical damage. Any sheet material will do. In a chicken coop, it can be flat slate, and in a shed for small horned thinness, sheets of plywood.
Heating is a radical way to keep your barn warm
If winter has caught you suddenly, and the sheds with animals are poorly insulated, a radical way to increase the temperature inside the premises is to provide heating for the winter. Heating can be electric or wood-fired. In the first case, heaters are used, in the second, they build a stove. Heaters are a temporary solution to the problem, but the stove should be installed even in insulated rooms.
The fact is that thermal insulation does not warm, but only prevents heat from leaving the shed. The stove will allow you to quickly and inexpensively heat the air for the comfortable life of your pets. From what to make the stove, you decide. Just keep in mind that brick structures heat up for a long time, but then cool down for a long time. Metal stoves heat up almost instantly, but then cool down just as quickly.
Insulated doors will help keep warm inside the barn. It is best if the door leaf consists of two independent halves. To release the animals into the yard or into the walking enclosure, it will be enough to open the lower door. Warm air accumulated on top will not be able to leave the room. And in summer, the upper half will make it easier for you to clean the barn - through it you can throw fresh manure outside.
remoskop.ru
what should be the temperature and how to insulate
With the onset of cold weather, the egg production of chickens decreases, the risk of colds in birds increases. In regions with a harsh climate, in order to maintain the optimal temperature regime in winter, you have to resort to various methods of warming and heating the chicken coop. You will be able to do all the work with your own hands. The main thing is to correctly choose a heat-insulating material and follow the rules for its installation. If natural heating is insufficient, it makes sense to think about an artificial heat source.
What should be the temperature in the hen house in winter
When breeding layers, it is important to know what temperature should be in the hen house in winter in order for the chickens to rush. Experienced poultry farmers call the following temperature parameters:
- favorable temperature for keeping chickens ranges from + 12 ° С to + 15 ° С;
- the minimum temperature in winter in the hen house is + 10 ° C - with a decrease in the indicator, the feed consumption increases, since part of the nutrients goes to heating the body of the birds;
- the recommended temperature in the hen house for laying hens is about + 18 ° С - the organization of the "spring" microclimate contributes to an increase in egg production by 40%.
Insulated chicken shed
Most types of chickens are able to survive even with short-term minus values on the thermometer, however, such extreme conditions sharply reduce the productivity of the bird. When determining how many degrees should be in the hen house in winter, it is necessary to take into account the age of the inhabitants of the house:
- chickens on the 21st day of life - not less than 21 ° С;
- grown chicks from the 21st to the 50th day - the minimum temperature is + 16-17 ° С;
- adult chickens - from + 10 ° С.
Creation of a normal microclimate in the poultry house
Under favorable conditions, chickens are active - they drink water well, eat feed, are mobile and are distributed throughout the entire area of the poultry house. Crowding of birds testifies to insufficient heating, which is fraught with suffocation.
Excessive warmth is also undesirable. The high temperature negatively affects the egg production of birds - the quality of the eggshell deteriorates and the weight of the eggs decreases.
Signs of bird overheating:
- rapid breathing;
- lowering of the wings and open beak;
- intensive water consumption;
- refusal of the main feed.
Excess heat has a negative effect on chickens
In addition to maintaining the optimal temperature, it is important to ensure the stability of the microclimate in the hen house in winter. Poultry do not tolerate "jumps" in relative humidity and temperature changes.
Do-it-yourself chicken coop insulation for the winter
All activities for preparing the poultry house for the winter period with their own hands are divided into natural insulation and artificial heating. The first option involves the implementation of thermal insulation of structural elements of the barn: walls, floor, roof, windows and doors.
Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool and isolon
It is advisable to take care of the insulation of the poultry house even at the stage of its construction. In this case, you will not have to reduce the usable building area. Let's outline the main ways of insulating the walls of the hen house from the inside.
Option 1. Insulation of the chicken coop with glass wool... The material is notable for its low cost, good elasticity, resistance to pests, rodents and mold.
Work order:
- From the inside of the walls, fill the crate of slats. The thickness of the insulation of the walls of the hen house will be about 8-10 cm.
- Place glass wool in the formed cells.
- Place a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Fiberglass is hygroscopic, so the vapor barrier cannot be neglected.
- Sew up the structure with OSB boards or plasterboard.
Laying glass wool between wooden battens
The same technology is used to lay other mineral wool or wall cladding from the inside with foam.
Option 2. Application of isolon... Reflective insulation material is effective, environmentally friendly and does not "hide" the space inside the room. The disadvantage of this method is the high cost of insulation.
To achieve the greatest efficiency, a gap of 1.5-2 cm should remain between the wall and the insulation.
We will analyze step by step how to insulate a chicken coop with an isolon:
- Fill the wall with a grid of strips 1.5-2 cm thick. Cells with dimensions of 1 * 1.5 m, staggered, should form.
- Fasten the isolon with nails, glue the joints with aluminum tape.
- Fill an additional grate on top of the insulation.
- Install the topcoat.
Poultry house insulation with Isolon
Budget insulation with shingles and natural materials
Option 3. Warming with shingles - an affordable and effective method... Moisten the clay abundantly, add sawdust and mix until smooth. Treat the walls with a mortar - the layer thickness is about 3 cm. The cracks that appear should be repaired with a sand-clay mixture. After drying the shingles, whitewash the surface with quicklime.
Using shingles as insulation for a barn
Option 4. Laying natural insulation... To implement the method with your own hands, you will have to build a false wall from boards or OSB panels. Place sawdust, wood shavings or dry needles in the space between the two walls.
Owners of compact structures think about how to sheathe the chicken coop outside. The best option is polystyrene or expanded polystyrene. The sheets are "set" on glue or attached to the facade with plastic dowels. After grouting, reinforcement and plastering of the thermal insulation is performed.
Sheathing of external walls of the poultry house with polystyrene foam
Insulation of the chicken coop with expanded polystyrene increases the temperature inside the building by 4-5 ° C.
What materials are suitable for the floor
The insulated underfloor heating in the chicken coop is done in the same way as for a residential building: a rough floor, wooden logs, a layer of insulation and a finishing board made of boards.
Subfloor scheme
How to insulate the floor in the chicken coop? For thermal insulation of a wooden floor with your own hands, the following materials are used:
- Sawdust and expanded clay. Insulation of the floor in the chicken coop with expanded clay is affordable and easy to install. The material is poured between the installed logs, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is 5-10 cm. Sawdust is also used by analogy. The disadvantage of wood-based material is susceptibility to rodents.
- Mineral wool. The heat insulator fits into the space between the lags with the hard side up - it is indicated by a blue stripe. Polyethylene must be lined under the mineral wool, and a vapor barrier on top. The thickness of the insulation is about 20 cm.
- Expanded polystyrene. For the installation of thermal insulation, you should not use steam and waterproofing - the characteristics of the material do not change in a humid environment. Extruded polystyrene retains its original shape and is not subject to rodents.
Floor insulation instructions
Below are options for how to insulate a concrete floor in a chicken coop.
Method 1. Thermal insulation for a semi-dry or wet screed... It is better to lay polystyrene foam of maximum density under the cement-sand screed.
Layer sequence:
- Deep penetration primer treatment.
- Waterproofing the floor with roofing felt or mastic.
- Fixing the damper tape around the perimeter of the house.
- Placement of expanded polystyrene plates.
- Shelter insulation with plastic wrap.
- Installation of reinforcing mesh and floor screed.
Insulation of a concrete floor under a wet screed
Method 2. Warming by lags... The process involves the preliminary installation of the lag, the laying of heat-insulating material and the finishing of the floor with boards or OSB boards.
Regardless of the option of arranging the floor, additional warm bedding is required for the chicken coop for the winter. Most often, a mixture of sawdust and shavings is used in a ratio of 1: 3, respectively. It is advisable to add moss, a little peat to the litter, and cover it with straw on top.
Important! Spruce sawdust in the hen house in winter has a disinfectant effect. The temperature inside the litter of 20-30 cm can reach 30 ° C.
Straw bedding for chickens
It is permissible to insulate the chicken coop with straw and dry grass. During the winter, the litter should be fluffed up and a fresh layer should be added periodically.
How to prevent heat leakage through doors and windows
A large amount of heat escapes through window gaps and leaks in the door structure. Insulation of windows in a hen house is carried out with various improvised means: newspapers, foam rubber, cotton wool, self-adhesive tape, felt strip or pieces of fabric.
All existing cracks in the window frame must be sealed with insulation material. To minimize the risk of blowing through, glue the joints of the window profile to the frame with masking tape.
Thermal insulation of the window frame with foam rubber
In old buildings, the integrity of the window structure is often violated - the frame is skewed or "moves away" from the walls. In this case, all existing holes must be treated with polyurethane foam or silicone sealant. As an additional protection from the cold, you can stretch and secure the film.
When designing a new bird shed, it is enough to provide one small window on the south or east side. The optimal solution is to create removable frames, which can be easily replaced with a net for airing the house in the summer.
Be sure to check the tightness of the door to the harness and insulate the entrance to the chicken coop. The upholstery of a wooden or metal door leaf is made with mineral wool, isofol, polystyrene, penofol, foam rubber, padding polyester, felt, batting or polyurethane foam.
Using batting to insulate a door
Before insulating the door in the hen house, it must be removed from the hinges, the handle and the lock must be dismantled. When using "soft" heat-insulating material, the following procedure is followed:
- Place the door on a horizontal surface.
- Take measurements and cut out the recommended length of thick batting, foam rubber or mineral wool.
- Fitting.
- Prepare the upper upholstery from leatherette or thick raincoat fabric - it should overlap the door with an overlap of about 20 cm.
- Put insulation on the door and fix it around the perimeter with nails or staples. Tie in several places inside the door leaf.
- Pull the upholstery on top and carefully fasten it from the outside of the door with decorative or ordinary nails.
- If necessary, insulate the door from the inside as well.
Door leaf upholstery with leatherette
What should be a warm roof
In the northern regions, it is recommended to build poultry houses with a gable roof. The resulting attic provides additional thermal insulation for the entire structure and is used to store non-bulky items. For roof insulation with your own hands, the same materials are suitable as for the walls.
Step-by-step instructions on how to properly insulate the roof of a chicken coop with an attic with isover or mineral wool:
- Treat the load-bearing floor beams with an antiseptic and fire retardant to protect against decay, the development of pathogens and fire.
- Cover the floor of the attic with a vapor barrier film.
- Place mats of heat-insulating material between the beams and cover the insulation with a film waterproofing agent.
- Sheathe the floor with plasterboard, planks or plywood.
Unrolling a roll of insulation in the attic
Insulation of the ceiling in the hen house
In a lean-to poultry house, the ceiling must be insulated. For work, it is better to choose light materials: polystyrene, mineral wool, foil polystyrene foam.
Consider how to insulate the ceiling in a hen house with foam with your own hands:
- Inspect the ceiling and replace old rotten boards.
- Treat the wood flooring with protective compounds.
- Create a crate from wooden beams.
- Place the foam in the cells and fix it to the ceiling with dowels with caps or using glue.
- Cover the insulation with wooden clapboard or sheets of moisture-resistant drywall.
Ceiling insulation technology with foam
An interesting and affordable option for ceiling insulation is the use of reeds. First, you need to prepare "reed mats":
- Reeds are collected at the beginning of winter, after the leaves have fallen off. Cut the stems closer to the base.
- Peel each stem and spread the reeds on a flat surface to dry.
- By grouping the reeds, form reed mats about 5-8 cm thick.
- Fix the shape with a bale rope. The approximate size of the mat is 1 * 2 m.
Homemade river reed mat
The disadvantage of ceiling insulation with reeds is the fire hazard of the material. When using an artificial heating source (stove, incandescent lamp), it is better to refuse the use of river reed.
Heating the chicken shed
In regions with long and harsh winters, where frosts below 10 ° C are not uncommon, an artificial method will have to maintain the optimal temperature regime. We will figure out how to correctly organize the heating of the hen house in winter and the best way to heat the house.
Organization of stove heating
When deciding how to heat the chicken coop in winter, it is necessary to build on the size of the barn and the available resources. With free access to solid fuels, some prefer to use a wood-burning stove. An option for budget heating is often a homemade borelyan stove or a potbelly stove.
The organization of solid fuel cheap heating of a chicken coop has a number of nuances:
- the heating elements of the oven must be isolated from birds;
- high fire hazard - the barn floor is filled with flammable bedding;
- the need to equip the room with a chimney and ventilation system;
- the combustion process requires constant monitoring and the addition of fuel.
Making a solid fuel potbelly stove for a barn
The simplest stove for a chicken coop with your own hands can be made from a lawn balloon. The furnace is a chamber with two compartments: the upper one is for fuel combustion, the lower one is for collecting ash. There is a grill between the compartments.
A hole is cut out in the used bottle and a combustion door is installed. Metal supports are welded to the bottom, and a chimney is installed on top. To protect the birds from burns, it is advisable to put a potbelly stove in a chicken coop in a steel casing.
Alternative stove heating options:
- Heating a chicken coop with gas is practiced in large farms, since the supply of a gas main and the installation of a separate boiler is an expensive measure for a chicken coop. This method is impractical to use in a private household.
- A diesel stove is not suitable for a chicken coop due to the complexity of its design. Pumping equipment and pre-filtration are required to supply liquid fuel.
- Water heating of the chicken coop. If the house is adjacent to the house, it will be possible to draw a water circuit from the boiler through it. For a small shed, it is enough to lay one or two pipes around the perimeter; in spacious rooms, the heating system is supplemented with radiators.
Electric heating
The most popular among farmers are two options for electric heating for a chicken coop:
- infrared lamp;
- infrared ceiling heater.
Heating the poultry barn with an IR lamp
A red 250 W lamp is enough to heat a 12 square meter chicken coop. m. The efficiency of the heat lamp allows you not to turn it off in the cold season, when the birds lack sunlight.
Additional benefits of a heating lamp:
- local targeted heating of objects, not premises;
- maintaining normal humidity levels;
- drying the litter;
- preservation of oxygen in the poultry house;
- Heating lamps use 10% of their energy for additional lighting;
- ease of installation and replacement.
Important! The distance from the lamp to the surrounding surfaces must be at least 0.5 m. Objects located closer to it may overheat.
Ceiling IR Poultry Heater
An infrared heater in a chicken coop works on the same principle as a lamp. The electric heater is convenient in that it can be fixed to the ceiling - birds will not be able to get too close to the equipment and get burned.
The maximum power of the heater in the chicken coop is 500 W. If the performance of one model is not enough to maintain the temperature regime in the entire shed, then the room is equipped with additional "heating points".
The optimal solution is a heater with a thermostat from the Teplofon company. The built-in temperature relay turns off the device when the preset air parameters are reached in the poultry house and turns on when the room cools. Such models are considered the most economical and energy-efficient chicken coop heaters.
The fan heater is not efficient enough to heat the house
Tips for choosing the best method for electric heating
Possible electric heating options:
- A fan heater for a chicken coop can be taken with a small power (1-2 kW). Such a unit will heat a small room up to + 16 ° С. Disadvantage of the method: the risk of a quick failure of the motor, the need for regular cleaning of the spiral from dust.
- Heating with infrared foil is an expensive method. In addition to infrared film, you need to buy a mounting kit, a reflective backing, a thermostat and plywood for covering the floor or ceiling. The distance from the heating surface of the film to the perches is about a meter. The film underfloor heating in the hen house must have a moisture-proof coating.
- An oil cooler in a chicken coop is a temporary solution to the problem. The device heats up the air for a long time and consumes a lot of electricity.
- Heating the chicken coop with a convector is more economical compared to the oil analogue. After switching on, the unit immediately starts heating the air. The disadvantage of the convector is uneven heating of the room. Temperature drops reach 10 ° C.
Installation of a "warm ceiling" from IR-film
Particular attention should be paid to the natural insulation of walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors when building a shed for laying hens and broilers. Experienced poultry farmers recommend using infrared lamps or heaters as artificial heating - they are safe and allow you to regulate the temperature of the poultry house.
101dizain.ru
Choosing a place for an insulated barnBuild houses outside the city (here we started with the foundation for a country house) - there has always been a dream number 1 in our Today I will tell you how we built such A very important point is the choice of a place for a new building. Unfortunately In our area, the coldest winds blow from |
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Preparation of material and tools for building a warm shedThey decided to make the shed using frame technology with full We'll cover the walls For processing |
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Making the base of the shedWe use four racks as supports for the base of the frame. Three Ends |
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Before you start laying the insulation in the interlag Sawing |
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We lay the insulationPolyalpan was laid in several grooves (it was borrowed by neighbors who Unfortunately, the polyalpan was only enough for 4 flights, in |
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We use construction plywood as a base for the floor. |
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In our case Try to push the self-tapping screws under the level of the plywood base. Necessarily |
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That's it - the floor is ready. By the way, with this operation you will immediately catch |
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We make the frame of the walls of the shed.The height of the front and rear walls of the shed is 2000 mm. Based on these parameters |
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We fasten all elements of the frame on self-tapping screws 75 mm long, strictly It is enough to make one common jib and put it in advance |
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The wall caracas is ready, it is enough to put it in its place and |
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Similarly, we expose the front wall of the shed and support it on |
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Making frames |
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After all four walls are assembled, raised and secured, be sure to If |
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Making the roof of the barnIn order to create a slope on the roof, we do one very Now the front wall is higher |
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We lay the boards on the edge with an interval of 50 cm - these will be rafters |
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We put a vapor barrier film on the rafters. Mandatory |
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A drain of the resulting condensation from the ceiling insulation mats should form. |
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On top of the vapor barrier film, we lay edged boards as guides for |
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The length of the slope of our roof is such that we had to install |
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After the roof is closed, proceed to the installation of the sheets Necessarily, |
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We carry out the sheathing, moving in a circle, but initially we fix it |
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We insulate the walls of the barn with our own handsWe use mats made of A prerequisite for working with this type of activity is We cut the mats in such a way that the width of the trim is greater than the width of the opening where it will be laid. Use a wooden spatula to tuck in the edges of the mat. It is more convenient than using |
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After the mats in the walls and ceiling have been installed, it is necessary to It remains only to supply electricity, but this is completely different Here's a do-it-yourself insulated shed, we got it. I must say that in this See also how to build a sleeper shed and a simple shed in the country. |
www.sami-svoimi-rukami.ru
How to insulate a barn with your own hands ⋆ Proraboff.rf
It is advisable to know before construction what the shed will be used for, to foresee a method of insulation in advance and implement it.
Options for insulating a barn and households. buildings
The best option is to build two parallel walls with space for insulation.
The roof as well as the walls must be insulated. To do this, you need to lay the insulation on the logs and press on top with boards. It is necessary to make a sloping roof so that moisture does not penetrate inside.
To prevent the cold from emerging from the ground, you can put wooden pallets with straw on the floor.
This method is the cheapest, since everything can be made from scrap materials, and no special skills are needed.
If you decide to remodel an old barn for the winter, there are several ways to do it.
Planking
The easiest option is to make a second wall of planks with space for insulation. In this case, the boards will need to be overlapped to avoid gaps between them.
As you can see in the photo, to form a wall without gaps, two boards are first nailed with a retreat, and then it is closed on top of the third.
Edges that are too curved can be trimmed in advance with a circular saw.
In the process of erecting the wall, you need to fall asleep in the resulting compartment with insulation. Sawdust is well suited for this, but sometimes dry fallen leaves and pine needles are also used. The advantage of sawdust is that they are small, dry, and the price is practically zero, they can be obtained in any carpentry workshop.
Advice!
To avoid rodents between walls, mix sawdust with hydrated lime ("fluff") in proportions 25 to 1.
Pour the materials onto a wood or metal backboard and stir with a shovel.
The sawdust insulation layer should be 20-30 centimeters thick on the walls, ceiling and field. You need to fill them up in layers and tamp them constantly. After that, you need to give time for the sawdust to sit down, it is advisable to add more after 1-2 weeks.
The ceiling will need to be hemmed and sawdust filled in in the same way. To obtain a box for insulation, you need to make a false ceiling, filling the second layer of boards over the rafters. From above, they are covered with roofing material and nailed every 50 centimeters.
To protect it from rodents in the lower part of the barn, you can shield the walls with slate on both sides. The floor is insulated by pouring a layer of soil 10 cm above the main one, and then clay is poured and compacted from above. The main thing when insulating is not to allow moisture to penetrate into the sawdust, otherwise they will quickly begin to rot.
To make a warm door, the boards are knocked off diagonally, and roofing material is inserted between them. With this design, you will keep the heat inside the room as much as possible.
Shingle wall cladding
If money is tight, but you want to get a warm utility room, then the walls can be sheathed with shingles.
To do this, you need to nail the slats diagonally, first in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. Reiki can be replaced with goat willow branches, then the clay layer can be made thicker.
To apply clay to shingles, you need to prepare a solution. Soak the clay with water until the consistency of sour cream and gradually add sawdust or straw, achieving the desired consistency. Do not apply the solution right away, but let it stand for a while.
Start work from the bottom, applying a clay mortar with a thickness of at least 3-5 centimeters. Throw it in and level it with a spatula. The layer should be even, pay special attention to the corners - you can increase the layer on them by rounding them.
After the clay plaster, the walls should dry within a few days.
Cracks will appear, which can be repaired with a mortar of clay and sand, mixing them 1 to 2.
Then you need to whitewash the walls with lime. If you work in the cold season, it is better to use slaked lime, as it will heat up on contact with water, but then be especially careful about safety precautions.
Advice!
Lime Instruction: Dissolve the quicklime granules in half a bucket of water.
In just a minute, the reaction will begin and the solution will be very hot.
Then fill the bucket with water to the end and add a spoonful of salt.
With the same clay solution, fill up all the remaining gaps in the ceiling and floor. To insulate the ceiling, make a box of boards and bars, and fill it with clay and sawdust with a layer of about 10 cm.
This method is quite laborious, but does not require money.
Insulation of the barn from the inside
The next method is to insulate the shed from the inside, it will suit you if the boards on the walls are more or less even and without cracks. It can be called the most expensive, since it requires the use of purchased materials, in contrast to the previous two options. But on the other hand, the appearance will be more or less beautiful, you can even convert the shed into a workshop.
Usually, mineral wool is used for internal insulation, which is tightly packed into cells made of bars. As well as the insulation of the loggia and the facade, in the shed you need to protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of vapor barrier with foil. Also, for insulation from the inside, you can use foam, sprayed foam.
Let's summarize
In this article, we examined the basic methods of insulating a barn. Which one to choose - cheap, but laborious, or more expensive and durable, in the end it is up to you to decide. If the structure is made of poor material, then of course, it is better to use the economy option.
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how to insulate a barn from boards
How to insulate a cellar with minimal labor and cost
As you know, building a cellar does not at all mean acquiring a good place to store your crops. Poor waterproofing can be the fault of the penetration of groundwater into the room, and poor-quality thermal insulation is an unfavorable temperature regime and the formation of condensation. That is why we will consider how to insulate a cellar in a garage or under a house, this will create an optimal microclimate in which all products will be kept fresh for a very long time.
It is worth remembering that only an integrated approach: good waterproofing, high-quality insulation and competent ventilation guarantee that the cellar will not be damp.
Polyfoam is a very popular option for warming cellars among developers
Insulation serves two main purposes:
- Freezing of the structure is prevented in winter.
- In the summer, high-quality thermal insulation allows you to maintain a low temperature in the cellar, even on the hottest days.
Features of insulation of various parts of the cellar
First, you should decide which insulation to choose for the cellar. It depends on the surface to be insulated and the characteristics of the application of the material. We will consider the most popular options, and you will have to make the final choice.
External thermal insulation
Insulation outside the building is relevant in cases where the cellar is located under the garage, in the shed or near the outer walls of the house, as well as if it is located separately. In cases where the cellar is under the house a few meters before its outer walls, this operation may not be carried out.
At this stage, the following features can be distinguished:
- It is best to carry out work even during the construction phase, when there is space. Otherwise, you will have to free the entire foundation, and in some cases it is almost impossible to do this.
- Walls must be waterproofed. The best option is modern roll materials and liquid rubber. These coatings serve for decades, unlike bitumen and roofing material.
- If there are large gaps, it is best to seal them with polyurethane foam. it reliably insulates and does not deteriorate over a long period.
- Next, foam or other sheet heat-insulating material is attached. The easiest way is to glue it using polyurethane foam or a special composition. You can also use bituminous mastic - it also dries out and provides high strength of the attachment.
In the photo - heat-insulating material with external insulation is attached to a pre-waterproofed surface
If high quality work is important to you, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam.
This material is much stronger than ordinary foam, it has higher thermal insulation properties, and thanks to the grooves in the ends, the joints are very reliable.
- To maximize the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer on the street, it is necessary to make a blind area along the wall to protect the basement walls from moisture.
The blind area will reliably protect the outer insulation layer and significantly extend its service life
Floor insulation
This is also an important point in the design of the cellar. Many people think that the floor does not require special attention, but this is not the case. For your floor to be reliable, it should be heat and waterproof. This can be done in several ways.
Warming with expanded clay:
- The base is leveled, which must be covered with roofing material or filled with bitumen, and a waterproofer should be glued to it.
- Further, expanded clay is poured with fractions from 5 to 20 mm. The layer of material should be from 10 to 25 cm. A reinforced concrete screed is poured over the material, the thickness of which depends on the expected load on the floor. After it hardens, you can carry out additional waterproofing of the surface.
Expanded clay is an excellent material for floor insulation
It is worth noting that expanded clay is a very light material, which simplifies the process of working with it. In addition, the price for this material is quite democratic.
You can insulate the floor with sand and gravel:
- The site is prepared and leveled, after which 15-20 cm of fine crushed stone is poured onto it. Then a layer of sand 5-10 cm thick is poured.
- The pillow is rammed and waterproofed, you can do this with roofing material or construction film.
- Next, a reinforcing belt is arranged and concrete is poured. If the groundwater is close to the surface, you can waterproof the poured surface and make a 5 cm thick screed on top. This will provide additional protection.
A reinforcing structure is installed on the gravel-sand cushion and concrete is poured
The third method is foam insulation:
- A sand or gravel cushion is arranged, which is closed with a waterproofer.
- On the top, foam grade 35 is laid.
- Next, a screed is poured, which, if necessary, can be reinforced to increase strength.
But this method is less common, since the floor can be perfectly insulated in simpler ways.
Wall insulation
We examined how to carry out the work outside, now we will analyze how to insulate the cellar from the inside.
The best option is polystyrene due to the ease of installation and low price.
With its help, you can easily carry out the insulation with your own hands, you do not need the help of specialists and instructions - everything is very simple.
You should first prepare the walls - they should be even, all flaws should be sealed with cement mortar.
If there is a danger of flooding, it is better to treat the walls with a penetrating solution, at the moment this is the best protection of premises from moisture.
Insulation sheets are easiest to glue, after which the surface is covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered.
Styrofoam will provide excellent thermal insulation
It is worth noting that when the outer walls are insulated with foam plastic 10 cm or more thick, the inner insulation can be omitted.
Another option is to stuff the guide bars along the walls, after which the foam is inserted between the bars, and the surface is sewn up with wood or moisture-resistant sheets.
Many developers prefer to use mineral wool, the installation process does not differ from foam. If the insulation will be carried out under plaster, a solid insulation is used, if under the bars - soft mats or roll material.
Another option is insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam. At the moment, it is the most reliable and durable insulation. It has no seams, is resistant to moisture and has high thermal insulation properties. But the price of this solution is much higher than others.
Spraying is done between the bars, after which the surface is sewn up - everything is very simple
Ceiling insulation
As a rule, the main problems with the microclimate in the basement are associated precisely with poor-quality insulation of the upper partition. Therefore, it should be done without fail.
There are several basic options for insulating the cellar from above. Let's consider each of them.
You can use polystyrene: fill the slats, insert insulation between them and seal all the seams with polyurethane foam.
Styrofoam can be used on both walls and ceilings
You can fill the crate at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling with 40 cm cells, you can weld it from metal. Sealed plastic bags with moss, straw and other natural materials are stuffed into the formed space.
You can use polyurethane foam spraying, but this will cost a lot.
Door insulation
Many, when insulating the cellar, forget that a significant part of the coolness leaves through a poor-quality door. It is best to make a vestibule with two doors. But all the same, it is better to additionally insulate the inner fabric. The easiest way is to paste over it with foam - this is a simple and effective way of insulation.
Based on materials from the site: http://moypodval.ru
aquariumfan.ru
How to build a barn and do it yourself cheaply? Step by step + Photo and Video
If you live in a private house, then you have some opportunities that the residents of state-owned apartments do not have. You can grow your own vegetables, fruits, have your own cattle and treat yourself to a fresh organic product. True, the cattle still need to be kept somewhere. And here already who are in what is much - they drive the poor cattle wherever they get, even into rooms that are completely unsuitable for that.
Building a barn
Usually, chickens become the first living creatures that new gardeners and owners of private houses start up, not counting cats and dogs. This is understandable, because it is not at all difficult to take care of them at any time of the year. It's a pleasure in spring and summer- it is enough to equip a canopy, where they could hide from the sun or bad weather, and provide the necessary food. And in winter it is already a little more difficult. Of course, no one would even think of taking them into their house, and in a flock of tools, chickens will die from the cold. But do not despair. Even a shed that looks like a sieve and is blown through by all the winds, a shed can be insulated for chickens.
The simplest option would be a hollow knocked-down frame.
And so, to begin with, we will erect a frame for the walls. For the back wall, we use the existing outer wall, and the front one must be knocked together from the boards. Boards for this will fit absolutely any, even not even. And so that during the construction of the building there are no gaps left, we nail the boards with an overlap.
First, we nail two boards to the bars, while leaving room for the third. We insert it between them in such a way that from above it lies under the first board, and from below it goes onto the second. The wind will not seep through the resulting "Christmas tree".
In addition, this construction is resistant to drying out. If the boards were knocked together end-to-end, then over time, gaps would appear between them. The herringbone design is protected from this. 
Alternatively, you can blow out the empty space with polyurethane foam. But the cheapest and most reliable means would be grandfather's method - sawdust warming.
Warming a barn with sawdust
This material can be obtained in abundance at any sawmill and for a devilishly pleasant price. The sawdust must be fine and dry.
Also, sawdust must be mixed with fluff lime to prevent the appearance of rodents.
We dilute sawdust with lime 1/25, respectively. If you are insulating a barn with sawdust, then make sure that the distance between the parallel walls, which you fill with shavings, is at least 25 centimeters.
We cover the material in layers, while constantly tamping it. Then you need to wait a couple of weeks until the insulation settles. Then you will need to add sawdust.
Insulation of the ceiling in the barn occurs in approximately the same way. But here, on top of the layer of insulation, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing. We do not just cover with slate, but between it and the layer of insulation there must be roofing material or plastic wrap.
When insulating the floor of the shed, fill in the soil at least 10 centimeters in height above the main level. Then we pour and tamp the clay. But with this method of floor insulation, you should immediately warn that it will always be dirty in the barn. If you want a clean floor, then replace the soil with expanded clay and fill it with a cement-sand screed on top. But you will have to do this in advance in the warm season.
Warming a barn with shingles
Shingles are made of clay and straw, they are safe and environmentally friendly. Shingles can act as a reinforcing material, since the straw prevents the clay from cracking and crumbling. Such material can serve for many years under a layer of plaster.
By mixing clay with straw, you can make bricks- adobe, from which you can make an excellent warm barn. If the shed has already been built, it can be insulated with shingles from the inside.
Shingles are wooden blocks that are stuffed onto the walls from inside the room. It is them that you will cover with clay and straw. The dies are packed in two layers diagonally. One layer goes in one direction, the second in the opposite direction. Thus, you should have a diamond mesh. Once the base is prepared, the clay should be soaked to a sour cream-like state. While stirring, add straw in portions.
Then we stir for some time until the solution becomes thick enough not to fall off the base. Before use, the mixture should be infused a little more. Next, we apply the mixture to the walls from the bottom up.
The layer should be at least 3 centimeters thick.
We make the leveling with a spatula. In the corners, the layer thickness is increased to 5 centimeters. If cracks form after drying, do not be scared - it is enough just to cover them with a clay-sand mortar. In the end, in order for our insulation to live for a long time, you need to plaster the walls and whitewash. Warming a barn with a shingle contains a significant disadvantage - despite its cheapness, it will require a lot of time and effort from you.
Insulation of a barn with mineral wool
There are faster ways, but at the same time, more expensive. Of these options, the best of its kind is insulation with cotton wool or foam. If you insulate with cotton wool, then nails should be driven into the walls in a checkerboard pattern, so you will create something like a reinforcing mesh. We lay rolls of mineral insulation on the walls, and with a rope we create a net that will hold the cotton wool. If you are using semi-rigid or rigid slabs, then there is no need for a mesh.
But then you have to make a board crate, with the distance between the boards corresponding to the width of the slabs, or even less by 1-2 mm, so that the slabs are immersed as tightly as possible.
After installation, we run the vapor barrier layer over the insulation to prevent it from getting wet from the formed condensate.
Warming a barn with foam
Insulating the walls with foam from the inside is even easier... Foam boards can be easily glued with any glue to the walls of the barn. The main thing is that the base is strong enough. You can even use PVA, monolithic foam or liquid nails. After gluing, the foam plates must be covered with any sheet material to protect them from mechanical damage. This can be plywood, flat slate, etc.
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With a year-round keeping of chickens, pigs and other domestic animals, it is important to properly equip their housing. It is better to insulate the barn at the construction stage. But if during the construction the thermal protection was not properly provided, then you can do the work with your own hands already during the operation of the building.
Why you need to observe the temperature regime
The plumage and fat of chickens allows them to survive in low temperatures. However, if the thermometer reads 0 ° C or less, then they will stop laying eggs. And in severe frosts, birds may not survive at all. The optimum temperature in winter in the hen house is 7-10 ° С. Better 12-15 ° C. It is in such conditions that chickens will retain their egg production even in winter.
But for them to lay eggs constantly, maintaining the temperature is not enough. In winter, in their "house" you need to create lighting, as in the spring. To do this, you will need to place 60 W light bulbs around the entire perimeter of the barn. They will not only provide the necessary light, but will also additionally heat the chicken coop.
If bulbs alone are not enough to create the optimal temperature, additional heating of the barn will be required. To monitor the internal temperature, you need to place a thermometer in the building, but only closer to the ceiling, since chickens can peck it. It is better to use a remote device that is located outside, but its measuring tip is inside the shed.
A cheap way to insulate a barn
It is not necessary to be a professional builder to insulate a farm building for poultry, pigs and other livestock.
All work can be easily done by hand.
The most budgetary option for thermal insulation of a barn is the installation of a double wall with a cheap, handy insulation in its cavity.
Wall structure installation
First you need to build a second wall around the entire perimeter of the building. To do this, two boards are nailed parallel to each other, and on top of the seam is a third board.
Insulation bookmark
It is necessary to place an insulating material in the formed space between the wall surfaces. These can be autumn leaves, pine needles, or sawdust. So that small rodents do not start in the shed, the heat insulator must be mixed with slaked lime in a ratio of 25: 1.
The layer of insulation should be at least 20 cm. At the same time, it should be placed everywhere - on the walls, ceiling and floor. They tamp it well, and then let it stand for another 2-3 weeks. If necessary, material is added and the space is "sealed".
Floor insulation
How can you insulate the floor in a barn? Even regular clay will do. To do this, first, soil is poured around the entire perimeter of the building 10-15 cm higher than the main one, and then compacted clay is laid.
In this case, it is very important to prevent the penetration of moisture from it to the sawdust, otherwise they will quickly begin to rot.
Heat protection of doors
The door to the outbuilding can be insulated with ordinary boards and roofing felt. To do this, the boards are nailed diagonally, and a sheet of roofing material is inserted between them.
By isolating the shed in this way with your own hands, you can provide warmth all year round for chickens, pigs and any other living creatures.
Application of shingles
Shingles are great not only for insulating outbuildings, but also for living quarters. Moreover, it does not require any financial costs, you only need clay, slats and patience.
Warming a barn with shingles is as follows.
Preparatory activities
First of all, you need to nail the slats diagonally, first in one direction, then in the opposite direction (goat willow branches can be used as slats).
Then you need to prepare the solution. To do this, the clay is soaked in water until a creamy mass is obtained and a little sawdust is added to it. The mortar should stand for 20-30 minutes, so that the wood chips swell and the clay lays down better.
Now you can start insulation. You should start applying the mixture from below in a small layer of 4-7 cm. It is no longer necessary, as this can lead to strong cracks on the surface. The solution must be simply thrown over the shingle, and then leveled with an ordinary construction trowel. You can put more clay on the corners by making them a little rounded.
Next, the walls must dry completely. This may take several days. Cracks may form on the plastered surface. Do not be afraid of them. They should be covered with a solution of clay and sand (1: 2). It is recommended to fill up all the cracks near the ceiling and floor with the same solution.
After the clay plaster is completely dry, it must be treated with hydrated lime. This will give the walls an aesthetic appearance and prevent various rodents and insects from entering them.
The use of modern heaters
This method is the most expensive, as it requires the purchase of building materials. But it is more suitable for those buildings in which there are more and less even walls without cracks.
Installation of a framework for mineral wool
As a rule, mineral wool is used as an insulating material for interior work. But before you apply it, you need to prepare the cells in which it will fit.
They can be made from ordinary planks, creating rectangular hollow structures nailed to the walls and ceiling.
Vapor barrier
To avoid moisture penetration into the thermal insulation material, it is necessary to create a vapor barrier layer with foil.
It will serve as an additional insulation for the barn, since it prevents the penetration of cold air and the exit of hot air.
After arranging the vapor barrier, insulation (mineral wool) is placed in the cells. It is installed by a bullet, no additional fastening is required.
Then the structure is sheathed with plywood or other sheet material.
Styrofoam use
Styrofoam is also suitable for insulating outbuildings. But it is better to place it outside, since the material is fragile and chickens can easily damage it.
Insulation plates are attached to the surface with special adhesives. Then, using the same glue, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is mounted (recessed into the composition). Plastering and lime whitewashing are performed on top of the reinforcing layer.
Whichever method of insulation from the above is chosen, it is important to remember that the main thing is to create optimal conditions for the normal existence of cattle or poultry.
Yeah ... a cardboard shed. First of all, I would foam the cracks in the walls. Moreover, the foam would have taken "professional" well, which is under the gun, just with a pistol and it is more convenient to work, and to dose the foam more accurately, respectively, it will be thrown out less and less will go to the trash. You can, of course, caulk with tow, but it is unlikely to come out especially cheaper, but the hassle will be immeasurably greater.
Next, hammer the foamed cracks with slats, it is interesting to still get the shingles, otherwise the shaped strip for finishing will be expensive. Close the gap between the wall and the roof with a piece of foam insulation, cut it out approximately under the gap, foam the remaining cracks. Thus, at least there will be no blowing through the walls.The roof is not clear. Where roofing material is visible above the boards, is it already a roof or is there still an attic? It is worth seeing if the roof is leaking, Roofing material - the coating is so-so, perhaps it is worth covering the roof with some kind of ondulin or a cheap profiled sheet in the spring.
It is worth insulating the ceiling first of all, since the warmest air is from above. Since you don't need much aesthetics, I would attach some foam insulation directly to the ceiling. There are such "fungi" for attaching insulation, they have wide plastic caps just under the screw. Here, through them, screw the foam plastic with screws of suitable length straight to the ceiling. The only thing is to pick up the screws so that they do not stick up from the board. And then if you are on top of the attic, you will walk - you will tear your shoes, if the roof - well, you know ... if there are no fungi, then you can cut short washers from any sheet material: metal, plastic, plywood, whatever you find.
There is a more aesthetic option, you can screw plywood onto the ceiling on top of the foam insulation, directly with screws to the boards through the foam, and close the joints with a bar. Stick the foam with foam, there is one for gluing insulation to the walls, I did not use it myself - I just read it. In general, if only the insulation lasted until you screw the plywood.
But first you need to figure it out with the roof, because if it starts flowing after warming, there will be a lot more trouble.
You can do the same with the walls, but first you need to remove the cardboard from the walls and see what is underneath. It seems to me that there are racks there, and the outer sheathing boards are already nailed to them. If so, you can lay insulation between the racks, and nail the inner lining, an inch board or the same plywood to the racks. It just wouldn’t hurt to hang shelves on the walls, and under them it would be good to have a more solid base than polystyrene.
In general, decide what is under the cardboard - we will think. If there are racks, then measure their thickness, if you manage to lay at least 100mm of insulation without hassle, you can work quite comfortably even in winter.I wouldn't bother with the floors at all. if you are not going to sleep there, then just do not blow much from the bottom, the rest is not important.
Here is the window, by the way, the least of the problems. I would take a couple of pieces of thick film and beat the window with glazing beads from the inside and outside - here's a triple glass unit for you
