Do-it-yourself basement hatch: electric constructions, the usual version and products with a retractable mechanism. We make a floor hatch in the basement How to raise the hatch of a well above

The invention relates to the construction of highways, in particular to raising the hatches of the wells of underground utilities during the construction of new roads. The technical result is the creation of an accurate method for raising the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads, providing a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch. The method of raising a road hatch during road construction is carried out in the following sequence: laying a slab for covering the well at the level of the roadbed, closing the neck of the well with a closing sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, then laying a layer of road surface over the hatch without raising the neck, setting the coordinates of the center of the raised well , drawing the boundaries of the tool, installing the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer along the top of the cylindrical channel, removing the cut out fragment of the road surface, removing the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the coating; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction. 6 c.p. f-ly, 5 dwg

Drawings to the RF patent 2459909

The invention relates to the construction of highways, in particular to raising the hatches of the wells of underground utilities during the construction of new roads.

Overview of the prior art.

According to the existing technology, during the construction of a new road, the hatch is raised by building up its neck and laying layers of the road surface around it with tamping the road surface around the neck of the hatch, for example, with a road roller (see Guidelines for the design of city streets and roads. TsNIIP Urban Planning Gosgrazhdanstroya. .: STROYIZDAT, 1980).

The known technology has a significant drawback, which consists in the fact that a section of the road is formed around the hatch that is not reachable by the working body of the roller (dead zone), which cannot be tamped tightly (Fig. 1). As a result, the section of the road surface around the hatch throat settles over time, which leads to the destruction of both the road surface and the hatch neck.

To eliminate these phenomena, it is required to replace the hatch and road surface.

Various methods are known in the art for lifting the manhole opening.

There is a known method of lifting the manhole hatch according to the utility model patent No. 1497. When repairing the road surface by building into the hatch body, a repair insert is placed in place of the hatch cover, which rests on the road surface being repaired with its circular support, after which the hatch cover is installed in the repair insert, and the repair layer of the road surface is laid. However, the known method is intended for use in road repair, it is not intended for raising the manhole hatch during the construction of a new road: the repair insert is made with developed supporting surfaces and is intended solely for its installation on the old roadbed.

There is a known method of replacing the neck and cover of a well according to RF patent No. 2268370.

The known method contains the steps of cutting the spherical part of the paved road around the specified neck and well cover, removing the specified cut spherical part, dismantling the cover and neck, installing a new neck, filling the hollow spherical space formed at the removal stage with a self-curing non-shrinking filler with a high degree of fluidity and stacking a surface layer material on top of said self-curing, non-shrinking filler with a high flow rate without using roller compaction.

However, the known method is not intended to raise the manhole hatch during the construction of a new road. The sequence of actions when replacing the hatch neck according to the known method is the reverse sequence of actions when lifting the hatch during the construction of a new road.

By the totality of features, the known method of lifting the hatch during road construction is adopted as the closest analogue.

The objective of the claimed invention is to improve the quality and service life of the road surface around the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads.

The technical result of the claimed invention is the creation of an accurate method of raising the manhole hatch during the construction of new roads, providing a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch.

The essence of the invention.

The specified technical result is achieved by the fact that the inventive method of raising a road hatch during road construction, including laying layers of road surface, building up the neck of the hatch, tamping the road surface around the neck of the hatch, according to the invention is carried out in the following sequence: the neck of the well with a cover sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, subsequent laying of the pavement layer on top of the hatch without raising the neck, setting the coordinates of the center of the raised well, drawing the boundaries of the tool, setting the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer at the top of the cylindrical channel, extracting the cut out fragment of the road surface, removing the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the covering; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction. In this case, the closure of the neck of the well is performed with a round-shaped sheet of metal with internal stops against displacement and a floating handle for extraction.

In this case, the device of the road surface over the hatch is carried out by the device of a crushed stone base, the device of the lower layer of the coating of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, the device of the upper layer of the coating of fine-grained asphalt concrete.

In this case, the extension of the neck of the well is carried out using concrete rings with installation on a cement mortar.

In this case, the filling of the voids is carried out with a concrete solution with a plasticizer.

In this case, pressing is carried out using a vibrator head.

At the same time, the asphalt concrete pavement is laid with a hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture, followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

The specified set of distinctive features is not known from the prior art and, therefore, the claimed technical solution is new. The solution also has an inventive step.

The invention is illustrated by the following drawings.

Fig. 1 is a diagram of the preparatory work for lifting the hatch during road construction according to the claimed method.

Figure 2 is a diagram of work on lifting the hatch before milling according to the claimed method.

Figure 3 is a diagram of work on lifting the hatch with milling according to the claimed method.

Fig. 4 is a diagram of works on raising the neck of the well according to the claimed method.

Figure 5 is a diagram of the final stage of lifting the hatch according to the claimed method.

Disclosure of the essence of the invention.

As described above, the installation of the hatch during the construction of the road is accompanied by the formation of a section of the road around the hatch that is inaccessible by the working body of the roller (dead zone), which cannot be tamped tightly (Fig. 1) and, therefore, is subject to deformation and destruction. The smaller the size of the inaccessible area, the more durable and durable the road surface in this place will be. Reducing the size of the inaccessible area directly depends on the accuracy of raising the manhole hatch when building new roads and making a channel for it, which will provide a dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatch.

The inventive method for raising a road hatch during road construction is as follows.

Preparatory stage (figure 1). At the level of the subgrade 1, according to the design documentation, the slab 2 of the well overlap is laid. The neck of the well is closed with sheet 3, mainly metal (steel), round in shape with recommended dimensions of 10 mm thick and 1000 mm in diameter. For ease of use, the cover sheet 3 can be provided with internal stops (not shown) against displacement and a floating recess handle (not shown). The cover sheet 3 must withstand the pressure generated by the downstream pavement device.

Then, geodetic work is carried out to determine the coordinates of the center of the well being raised using a tacheometer.

The stage of work on raising the hatch before milling (Fig. 2). The pavement is laid on top of the hatch closed with sheet 3, without building up the hatch neck. The pavement device over the hatch may include a crushed stone base 4, a bottom layer 5 of a pavement of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, an upper pavement 6 of a pavement of fine-grained asphalt concrete.

Then, geodetic work is carried out to determine the coordinates of the center of the raised well, made at the preparatory stage.

With the help of a device - a grid 7, which serves to determine the exact location of the cutter for the hatches, paint the working area of ​​the cutter.

A cutter (not shown) is set according to the coordinates of the center of the well with an exact reference to the center of the well.

The stage of work on lifting the hatch with milling (Fig. 3). In the road surface, the cylindrical channel 8 is milled with a round mill, for example, the STEHR brand (Germany) using a front loader, for example, Bobkat S250.

Then the cut fragment is removed. Removing the cut out fragment of the road surface is carried out using an extractor, for example "Traglast". In the upper part of the cylindrical channel 8, a chamfer 9 is removed, with a height of at least 50 mm from the top of the coating. Chamfering on the top of the cylindrical hole ensures an even load distribution on the road surface and the manhole cover. In addition, the chamfer helps to fill the cavity with a quick-setting solution at a later stage. The execution of the channel 8 cylindrical allows to ensure the required accuracy of raising the neck of the well. In the milled channel 8, the crushed stone base is disassembled and removed.

Stage of work on raising the neck of the well (Fig. 4). The cover sheet 3 is removed. The neck of the well is raised by building up with concrete rings 10, for example, grade KO6, installed on the cement mortar 11 to the desired level, so that there is enough height to install the manhole hatch.

The final stage of work on lifting the hatch (Fig. 5). With a grip, the shell of the hatch 13 is inserted under the level of the road surface (according to the project). The adjusting device (ring 12) is set exactly under the mark of the top layer of the coating.

The resulting cavity 14 between the outer wall of the well and the cylindrical channel 8 is filled with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler, which can be a concrete solution with a plasticizer. For better penetration of the solution into hard-to-reach places, a vibrator head is used. Asphalt concrete pavement is being laid with hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture, followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

The difference between the proposed method and the traditional one, chosen as a prototype, is that the hatch is closed with a layer of pavement without raising the neck. Over the well hatch (and not around it, as in the prototype), additional layers of road surface are laid, in which a cylindrical channel is then milled to precisely raise the well hatch to a given height.

The inventive method makes it possible to carry out work to raise the manhole hatch to a predetermined level, which cannot be done using known solutions. The exact binding of the coordinates of the cutter to the center of the hatch has been carried out, which makes it possible to provide a minimum cavity between the outer wall of the well and the channel, the chamfering on the upper part of the cylindrical hole helps to fill the aforementioned cavity with quick-hardening mortar. In addition, the chamfer ensures an even load distribution on the road surface and the sunroof.

The inventive method allows to significantly improve the quality of the road surface around the hatches due to their precise installation and provision (dense and evenly distributed road surface around the hatches.

Sources of information

1. Guidelines for the design of city streets and roads. TsNIIP Urban Development Gosgrazhdanstroy. - M .: STROYIZDAT, 1980.

2. Patent for utility model No. 1497 Manhole of a well. IPC E02D 29/12. Published on 1/16/1996

3. Patent for invention No. 2266370 Method of replacing the neck and cover of a well. Published on December 20, 2005.

CLAIM

1. A method of raising a road hatch during road construction, including laying layers of the road surface, building up the neck of the hatch, tamping the road surface around the neck of the hatch, characterized in that the method is carried out in the following sequence: laying a slab for covering the well at the level of the roadbed, closing the neck of the well with a closing sheet, fixing the coordinates of the center of the hatch of the raised well, the subsequent laying of the pavement layer on top of the hatch without raising the neck, transferring the coordinates of the center of the raised well, drawing the boundaries of the tool, setting the tool, cutting out a cylindrical channel in the road surface with a chamfer at the top of the cylindrical channel, extracting the cut fragment of the road coverings, removal of the cover sheet, raising the neck of the well with the installation of the hatch body under the mark in the level of the upper layer of the cover; filling the voids formed during the production process with a fast-hardening non-shrinking filler followed by pressing; device of asphalt concrete pavement with subsequent compaction.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mouth of the well is closed with a round-shaped sheet of metal with internal stops against displacement and a floating handle for extraction.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the construction of the road pavement over the hatch is carried out by the device of crushed stone base, the device of the lower layer of the pavement of coarse-grained asphalt concrete, the arrangement of the upper layer of the pavement of the fine-grained asphalt concrete.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that raising the neck of the well is carried out using concrete rings with installation on a cement mortar.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the filling of the voids is carried out with a concrete solution with a plasticizer.

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that pressing is carried out using a vibratory head.

7. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the asphalt concrete pavement is laid with a hot dense fine-grained asphalt concrete mixture followed by compaction with a vibrating plate.

Many owners of private houses do not know how to make a door to a cellar with their own hands or what the staircase leading there should be like. In this article, we will understand the basic requirements for the construction of the access door, we will try to choose the appropriate materials and design solutions.

Let's start with what we want from going down to the cellar:

  • If we are talking about a horizontal hatch, it must be large enough... Remember: they go down into and out of the cellar not empty-handed.

Hint: the minimum horizontal dimensions for a cramped room is 65x70 centimeters.
A slightly larger hatch - 90x90 will be comfortable for a person of solid dimensions.

  • It is desirable that the staircase has a slope of no more than 60 degrees to the horizon and a step width of at least 15 cm... The presence of handrails is extremely welcome: it will be extremely unpleasant to lose balance on a steep ladder with a load in your hands.
  • The door for the cellar, regardless of its design, must provide maximum thermal insulation... The temperature regime inside the cellar and in the room above it (or outside, if we are building a separate room) varies greatly for most of the year.
  • High vapor permeability is also undesirable... You can often come across dubious advice that this structure, like the entire ceiling, must "breathe". However, in practice, the migration of steam from a warm room to a cold cellar in summer only leads to an increase in the amount of condensate in it.
  • Moisture, however, is inevitable - some condensation is inevitable... Hence another requirement: the doors to the cellar and the box around them must not rot or rust.

Materials and design

So, taking into account all the above wishes, we will consider what materials can be used.

Wood

Preferred, of course, resistant to decay and dampness of the species: larch, oak, aspen. The door itself or knocked together from a board with a thickness of 25 millimeters; the box is assembled from a bar.

Tip: if you do not have woodworking machines at your disposal, the easiest way is to purchase a ready-made door frame and adjust it to the required dimensions.

For additional protection against decay, the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic primer, after it dries, the material will not interfere with proliferation 2-3 times or covered with polyurethane varnish resistant to high humidity.

For assembling the shield and box, it is better to use self-tapping screws rather than nails. Of course, stainless steel - yellow or silver. The board is pre-drilled with a smaller diameter and countersunk under the head of the self-tapping screw.In this case, you can not be afraid of cracks.

To hang the hatch, hidden hinges are used, for which recesses are selected in the box. The hinges, of course, are also taken only and exclusively stainless: black steel will quickly decorate the hatch cover with untidy drips.

How does the horizontal entrance to the cellar open?

More often than others, two simple solutions are used:

  1. In the hatch cover, a groove with a width of about 5 centimeters is selected and half covered with a 3 mm duralumin or galvanized steel plate. The resulting improvised handle will allow you to lift the lid of moderate weight without discomfort.
  2. For a thick oak lada (as the hatches into the cellar were traditionally called), the instructions are somewhat different. Here it is better to use a ring that is sunk into a shallow groove in a horizontal position.

Metal

A steel door is an ordinary steel door of the appropriate size. Its distinctive feature is completely hidden hinges, which will allow the wearer not to trip over the cover. Typical materials are a profiled pipe with a section of 20x40 mm and a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm.

The main problem with steel is its susceptibility to corrosion. How is it solved? The simplest way is two or three layers of paintwork. On top of a layer of alkyd primer, any enamel for external work is applied.

Gas lifts

A simple device consisting of a cylinder filled with compressed air, a piston and a pair of mounting pads can greatly simplify the lifting of a massive lyada. The price of such a product starts at about 300 rubles.

The method of fastening is determined by the material of the hatch:

  • For wood, ordinary stainless steel screws are used.
  • For a professional pipe with walls of moderate thickness, it is easier to use a self-tapping screw for metal with a drill. It is screwed into the hole drilled with its own tip using a conventional screwdriver.

Warming and vapor barrier

The wooden exit from the cellar requires multilayer insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

  1. On the underside of the lada, a block is stuffed inside the box, which will serve as a frame for the heat-insulating layer. It also fixes a layer of waterproofing material. Usually, ordinary polyethylene is used in this capacity.
  2. Inside the frame, a layer of insulation is laid from a bar - foam, extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The thickness of the insulation is usually 40-50 millimeters.
  3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
  4. Then the insulated frame is closed with a sheet of thin (4-5 mm) plywood on stainless self-tapping screws. Of course, plywood also needs protection from dampness - antiseptic treatment and impregnation with drying oil.

Insulated wooden lada.

If a cellar is provided in the house, it is necessary to make an entrance to it. It can be a door or a hatch. As a rule, in private houses, the choice is made in favor of the second option. Next, consider how to equip do-it-yourself cellar hatch. Drawing design, more precisely, how to compose it, will also be described in this article.

Relevance of the issue

It makes no sense to argue about the advantages of a cellar in the house. It not only acts as a utility room, increasing the area of ​​the house, but also provides always a dry and warm floor of the first floor. Its arrangement, however, requires considerable investment. In addition, it is necessary to have certain skills and knowledge of building codes.

Those owners of private houses who have a sufficient amount of funds entrust the arrangement of the cellar and the entrance to it to professionals. Other owners prefer to do the work themselves.

As a rule, the basement is foreseen by the project. Accordingly, at the design stage, the location of the hatch in the cellar is determined. It should be arranged so that the lid does not interfere with walking and does not touch the furniture. It is important to consider the appearance. hatch into the cellar. Lid must be made of a material that is in harmony with the environment. Before starting work, you need to think over the details and take into account the nuances.

Features of drawing up a drawing of a hatch in a cellar

When drawing up a diagram, you should determine:

  • The place where the hatch will be located. As mentioned above, the lid should not interfere with moving around the room and not touch the surrounding objects.
  • Optimal dimensions of the hatch in the cellar... The minimum internal parameters are 75x75 cm.
  • The material from which the hatch will be made. It should be lightweight but durable.
  • Materials for thermal insulation and ensuring the tightness of the structure.

Cellar floor hatch often equipped with a soft opening / closing system. In houses where there are small children and animals, a fixing device is additionally provided.

To prevent unauthorized access to the cellar, the hatch can be equipped with an electric drive.

Material selection

It depends on a variety of factors. When choosing, the material from which the walls of the house are made is taken into account.

For example, in wooden structures, boards and plywood sheets are used for the hatch into the cellar. According to the drawing, the required dimensions are cut off, treated with special impregnations. Within a few days, the composition should be completely absorbed into the wood. After that, the direct installation begins.

The hatch to the cellar can be metal. To install it you will need:

  • Steel sheets with a thickness of 0.5-1 and 3-4 mm.
  • Corner 40 or 50 mm.
  • Door hinges.
  • Styrofoam.
  • Rubber compressor.
  • Grinder and cut-off wheels.
  • Primer.
  • Welding machine.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Drill with drills.

How to install a cellar hatch with your own hands?

As mentioned above, the first thing to do is draw up a drawing. Everything must be accurately calculated so as not to redo the work.

Before, you need to prepare the material and tools. According to the drawing, the workpieces are cut, the support is equipped. It is attached to the flooring.

The edge of the backboard must be processed with longitudinal strips. Insulation (mineral wool or foam) is laid in the crate.

After the main activities have been completed, external finishing begins. As a rule, the material from which the floor is made is used.

Nuances

If you have materials and tools, you can make blanks yourself. However, as a rule, the owners turn to metal warehouses. In the workshops, you can order blanks according to individual dimensions.

When choosing a steel sheet for a metal hatch, it must be borne in mind that its size should be larger than the size of the manhole and slightly overlap it.

The corners must be placed at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edge. Stiffeners should be installed in the center of the structure.

Parts are welded without gaps. The finished cover is cleaned and primed.

It is necessary to lay insulation in the internal voids. It is covered with plywood or another sheet of steel.

The installation of the hatch on the hinges is carried out using anchors.

Do not forget about the sealant. It will provide floor protection and additional insulation.

For installation, you can use door hinges if the hatch is made of light material (wood, for example). For heavy metal structures, it is better to choose more reliable hinges.

Smooth running

It greatly facilitates operation. hatch to the cellar. With shock absorbers the cover will close smoothly, which will prevent injury. When installing the mechanism, keep the cover open.

You can make a smooth movement of the lid in different ways. One of the most popular is the use of spring hinges used in car hoods. This option is suitable for light metal or wooden hatches. The fastening must be carried out so that the cover can be opened perpendicular to the floor.

Another option is gas shock absorbers. They are used if the manhole cover is heavy. In stores, you can find various shock absorbers of different capacities, suitable for any design.

A pen

It is usually made folding or hidden. Some craftsmen cut a recess in the lid. Removable handles are also common. They have one important advantage: small children cannot open the hatch.

When making a hatch with your own hands, it is advisable to use simple, inexpensive options that do not involve working with metal products.

Electric drive

As mentioned above, this mechanism prevents unauthorized access to the cellar by strangers. There are several ways to install an electric drive. Let's consider the simplest option.

For installation you need:

  • Electric motor.
  • Dural pipes.
  • Steel sheets.
  • Welding machine.
  • Grinder with cut-off wheels.
  • Cable.
  • Current source.

The mechanism is installed directly on the cover. In this case, it is recommended to leave some margin for opening the hatch (i.e., the lid should open slightly less than 90 degrees).

The mechanism works quite simply. A signal is given using the remote control, the system starts to rotate, respectively, the lid starts to move. The lifting is provided by the rod. You can also close the hatch using the remote control.

Retractable system

For its installation you will need:

  • Steel sheets 5 mm thick.
  • Two electric motors.
  • Metal rollers.
  • Three position switch.
  • Current source.
  • Cable.

This construction is more complicated than the one described above. However, it makes the manhole cover practically invisible. The entire mechanism is located under it and does not take up much space.

Tile hatch

As in all previous cases, a drawing is being developed. It reflects the following parameters:

  • Box dimensions (width, length).
  • Opening and frame thickness.
  • Loop locations.

Before installation cellar hatch for tiles an even base is created. For this, a screed is used. Alignment is carried out in several stages:

  • The level of the floor covering is determined. In this case, one should take into account the thickness of the tile (about 8 mm), as well as the layer of glue (about 4 mm).
  • A solution is being prepared, beacons are set up.
  • The opening of the future hatch is flanged. In this case, 10 cm should be left around the perimeter for support for the lid.

The screed is carried out using standard technology. After the solution has hardened, the hatch is tried on. It is applied to the opening. At this stage, it is recommended to first lay out the tiles.

The cladding starts from the corner of the wall, which is in plain sight. Trimming and laying of tiles when finishing the opening begins after the installation of the frame for the hatch cover.

Finishing

The ends are made out in a certain order. It is necessary to perform the following steps in stages:

  • Attach the frame to the niche and level it using a building level.
  • The existing gaps between the metal frame and the screed must be filled with mortar. For its preparation, cement of the M-500 brand is used. The solution should completely harden.
  • Trim the tiles and close the remaining area around the opening.
  • The slopes of the niche must be leveled. For this, beacons are installed, cement mortar is applied and leveled.
  • Slopes are tiled.
  • Before the glue dries, it is recommended to fix the tiles with adhesive tape and put dividing crosses.

Cover installation and cladding

The hatch can be hinged or any of the mechanisms described above can be used. Once the cover is secured, you can start finishing it. If the flooring is tiles, then it can also be installed on the hatch. In general, as practice shows, a variety of materials can be used for decoration. The main thing is that the appearance of the hatch is in harmony with the interior design. In this case, of course, one should not forget about the technology of laying this or that material.

In wooden houses, hatches are usually not trimmed. They are simply covered with linoleum or other coating on top.

Conclusion

In general, it is not difficult to make a hatch into the cellar yourself. The main difficulties can arise at the design stage and when calculating dimensions. At these stages, many nuances must be taken into account, including the expected load on the lid, the frequency of visiting the cellar, its purpose, the features of the items that will be there, and much more. To store bulky items, you need a large hatch.

It should be remembered that when the hatch is tiled, its weight will increase significantly. Therefore, in preliminary calculations, it is necessary to determine the most suitable hinges or closing mechanism. Stiffening ribs should not be forgotten either. Their number will depend on the dimensions of the cover. In standard hatches of the minimum size (75x75 cm), 1-2 stiffeners are provided.

Special attention must be paid to safety. It is not only about the operation, but also about the installation of the structure. During the installation of the hatch, the opening will have to be kept open. In this regard, if there are small children or animals in the house, access to the place of work for them must be limited.

We should not forget about the insulation. If it is not placed in the structure, heat will escape through the lid. It will help to prevent heat loss and In addition, it will soften the contact between the cover and the frame.

Peter Kravets

Reading time: 4 minutes

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For access to the underground from a residential building, a floor hatch for the basement is equipped - a convenient and inconspicuous entry option, widespread in suburban construction. With proper arrangement, you can get a useful space for storing vegetables and canned products, hidden in the interior of the house under a laminate or parquet board.

The main advantage of the hatch is the ability to keep the temperature at the optimum all year round, preventing changes in the optimal microclimate of the underground.

If a hatch is installed underground in a private house, it must be done correctly not only from an engineering point of view, but also visually attractive (since it is hidden), inscribed in the interior or hidden from prying eyes. When equipping a hole in the underground, you should think about how to make it comfortable and safe, as well as durable and reliable.

Features of manufacturing the hatch

There are several requirements for the equipped hatches:

  • Presentability of the species;
  • Combination with the existing interior (linoleum, laminate or tile must be chosen based on the floor finish of the room);
  • The reliability of the cover-entry;
  • The quality and durability of the opening mechanism;
  • Reliability and quality of the used fittings for hinges and curtains;
  • Reliability of the unlocking mechanism without effort, no matter what the size of the hatch;
  • Arrangement of the structure with two handles for opening;
  • If the cover weighs more than 10 kilograms, you need a device for opening with a drive (electric motor) or automatically;
  • The dimensions of the hatch to the basement must correspond to the shaft in the floor overlap, otherwise it will be necessary to re-equip the entire structure, which will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the estimate;
  • The entrance through the hatch must fit into the existing interior, be invisible to prying eyes, respectively, it must be flush with the floor (for laminate, tiles or wooden boards);
  • The secret door, which will be the entrance to the underground, will have a constant load, since people will constantly move around the house, which means that it is necessary to ensure the stability of the structure to the loads.

What should be the basement hatch in terms of its technical parameters and decorative features - it is up to the owner to choose, the main thing is that it is made taking into account all requirements and meets the standards.

Manufacturing and finishing options can be found in manufacturers' catalogs or in publicly available photos and videos Basement hatches protect the upper floors of the house from the dampness inherent in underground rooms, preventing mold or mildew infections from entering the surface.

Tools and materials

Before you make a hatch to the basement with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools:

  • Metal sheet no more than 5 cm thick;
  • Hinges;
  • Metal corners;
  • Seal (most often rubber);
  • Bulgarian and welding machine;
  • Drill and screwdriver;
  • Self-tapping screws;
  • Roulette.

The place for arranging the hatch is chosen based on the design features and configuration of the underground room under the house. The most convenient is to march along the stairs, where there are comfortable steps. As a rule, two marches are sufficient.

In this case, moving up the stairs will be convenient not only when carrying weights and products, but also for older people. In this case, the hatch is made rectangular, slightly elongated and with an approach to the wall of a room, for example, a kitchen.

The advantages of this arrangement:

  • The descent turns out to be of sufficient size, which is very important when laying bulk products or things with large sizes, boxes, boxes, etc.;
  • The place of the insert, offset under the wall, does not interfere with movement around the room in the house, since both in the open and in the closed state, the hatch is invisible;
  • The structure does not weaken the load-bearing beams. The hatch and the entrance in the center of the wooden structure needs to be equipped with a box or transverse beams in order to avoid overturning the log.

If the house is equipped with a small basement, especially when placed under a tile in the kitchen or dining room, designed to store quickly perishable food, then you can make a spiral staircase and a transparent cover.

This will only decorate the interior of the room. If the floor is wooden, then floor hatches to the basement are always made using stealth technology, that is, an invisible hatch to the basement, which is done by selecting a floor pattern or covering.

When placing a hatch in a house made of wood or a country house, the covers are equipped with deliberately rough ones, made of boards and forged hinges made of black metal. Such a structure should be located as far as possible from places where people often pass in the house.

The main part of the entrance to the underground is the hinges on which the hatch cover is hung. At the moment of loading on the cover, when it is stepped on, for example, more than half of the pressure exerted falls on the suspension of the hinges.

Typical entrance dimensions involve simple door hinges, positioned so that the pins are recessed into the surface of the manhole cover. If the structure is planned to be heavier, then it is better to do with car trunk sheds. This will change the trajectory of the lid flip, and the movement will be smooth and accurate.

To simplify the opening of a heavy hatch, it is worth using a special mechanism made of a coil spring, a steel bar, a kosyachny mount and a bracket where there are hinges.

Also important is such a structural element as the electric drive of the hoisting mechanism. Its usefulness can be felt when descending with the product in hand and trying to close the hatch cover with one hand. This is inconvenient and difficult, moreover, the lid can fall off at any time and cause damage to human health.

In order to avoid such difficulties, it is better to make a lifting electric drive, which you can either do yourself or purchase ready-made. When hand-made, all drawings can be found in open sources.

In order to protect yourself in the event that the electric lift fails, you need to buy a system for unlocking such a drive, which will allow you to open the cover mechanically by hand.

As a rule, handles or hinges are made on the hatch covers, with which they can be folded back into a safe position. For these purposes, a key handle or a folding metal loop is perfect.

Basement hatch design

Arrangement of the entrance to the underground in the house is similar to the warehouse or types in the garage, only with better finishes and increased fit of parts. In the garage, such finishing work is not required. In the course of work, it is necessary to think over several main details - choose a place for the hatch, calculate the hatch in the floor slab, choose the design of hinges and stops (gas), choose a method for fixing the decorative finish of the lid within the existing design of the room.

To enter the subfloor, an elevator hatch is used, a special type in which the cover is opened by a drive or by hand. This is a very reliable scheme for attaching the lid and the entire structure as a whole.

You can also make double-leaf hinged or sliding entrances. A sliding cover is not very common in country houses. Such options are used as needed, when the basement is large.

The hatch frame must have a reserve of rigidity and increased strength, at least similar to the characteristics of the floor.

The hatch door can sag over time, becoming below the floor line, and will accumulate dirt and dust on itself. In addition, the rigidity of the lid is a guarantee of the correct facing of the entrance to the subfloor.

Whatever the coating in the house, before you arrange a hatch into the basement for linoleum, you need to make sure that all structural elements are free from defects, and the decorative coating will not interfere with convenient use.

When installing the door in the floor, all work begins with a frame, which should fit in size into the general scheme of the basement entrance project. The dimensions of the hatch to the basement must be at least 75 * 75 cm. Welding is used to make a frame made of metal corners, as a rule, of a square or rectangular shape.

A gap of about 5 mm is left between the welded frame and the basement floor slab, which is then filled with a rubber seal for better sealing. The door is made of metal 1 mm thick or wood, which depends only on the preferences of the owner.

When installing the frame from the corners (40-50 mm), the edge of the sharp surfaces is dulled on the lid, and it is adjusted flush with the frame. The top of the cover should be slightly raised relative to the bottom.

Fastening is done on hinges, so it will be easier to open the door, and the tightness of the seams will protect the room from moisture and moisture. All hinges must fit the dimensions of the basement opening. Some fasteners are installed directly on the corners, and some on the cover itself, in which case you need to use self-tapping screws.

Basement hatch with gas shock absorbers

The installation of gas shock absorbers is needed in cases where there must be free access to communications and basements. Then the whole structure is made of high-strength steel, treated against corrosion with powder mixtures.

The assembly process is carried out by argon-arc welding. Any materials can serve as cladding - tiles, stone (natural or artificial), wood, bag or laminate, linoleum.

Externally, the arrangement of a well-made entrance to the basement will be imperceptible, whatever the coverage. Gas springs ensure the smooth movement of the opening mechanism, which will secure the structure and eliminate jerks when opening and in case of jamming of the device.

Correct installation of a hatch with gas shock absorbers allows you to make doors of increased dimensions without losing the strength of the structure. With this arrangement of the door of the entrance to the underground, the lid can be opened 90 degrees without effort, and the hinges will not create resistance.

The arrangement of hinges on such a structure should be of especially high quality, and experts prefer the spring type. The choice of sealant is also important to keep odors, cold and moisture out.

For some types of coverings, for example, linoleum, tiles or laminate, the installation of hatches is done with certain nuances. When they equip the hatch into the basement under the tiles with their own hands, all the frames are made horizontal, and from above they equip schemes that resemble a trough. When installing the cover on the hatch in the basement under the laminate for decorative purposes, as well as when installing gas lifts, the entrance to the basement and hatches are not used.

A hatch under the tiles in the floor is made in the following sequence:

  • Remove the lifting mechanism;
  • Marking is made for installation on the surface of the basement overlap, and the hatch door is placed in the opening of the entrance to the basement and the evenness is maintained at the building level;
  • The top of the frame is made along the bottom tile;
  • Before filling, the trough is dismantled from lifting mechanisms, which can be replaced with belts placed under the door;
  • Pour concrete with mortar and wait until hardened up to 90%;
  • Remove excess mortar between the frame or trough, cleaning the edges of the structure;
  • Connect the lift and make the tiling;
  • The gaps between the frame and the structure are cleaned and the seal is fixed.

In order to soundproof and retain heat, voids between the frame and the opening in the ceiling must be avoided. The hatch to the basement under the laminate is inspected for defects. All gaps are sealed with a sealant or polyurethane foam, which has sufficient flexibility. About once a year, all basement tile hatches must be cleaned of dirt and dust.

The basement serves not only for storing food, but also acts as a utility room in which certain things are stored. The vast majority of modern basements are planned in such a way that the entrance to it is either invisible or decoratively decorated in accordance with the stylistic design of the door.

Peculiarities

Today, there are many options for ready-made designs of hatches for the cellar of various types. Installation can be carried out independently, depending on the complexity of the chosen design and the skills of the buyer.

Hatch doors are classified into three types and are classified according to the way they are opened.

  1. Swing. The principle of operation is similar to a conventional entrance door - on one side, the cover is fixed with hinges, and on the opposite side, a lock or a simple latch is mounted.
  2. Removable. These models are the cheapest and easiest to install. Such a door is simply superimposed on top of the hatch opening.
  3. Sliding. This option is more applicable for a street cellar. Their principle of operation is to move the door along the guides.

The hatch finish also has a number of features to match laminate, floor tiles or linoleum. If the floors of the house are made of natural wood materials without additional coatings, then the choice of finishing material for the hatch cover is obvious. In the case of any complex finishing material, it is better to opt for aluminum and steel structures. Their appearance is similar to a shallow rectangular container. At the end of the installation work, its frame is filled with concrete mortar, and the completely dried surface is revetted under the required finish of the floor covering.

It is not difficult to manufacture and insulate a cellar with a staircase in a private house with your own hands, if you follow the recommendations of experts. Do not forget to choose the right curtains for the device, lifting mechanism, manhole with easy lifting, multi-link elements.

There must be a hidden handle and a suitable lifting mechanism, as well as trimmed decorative elements.

Drawings and designs

When drawing up a drawing, several factors must be taken into account.

  1. The location of the cellar hatch, which is chosen so as not to impede free movement in the room and does not touch the surrounding objects.
  2. The most suitable hatch size in accordance with the required parameters. The minimum size for comfortable operation is 75 x 75 cm.
  3. The material from which the hatch is made. It must be of high strength, but at the same time have a minimum weight.
  4. Materials that will ensure the tightness and thermal insulation of this structure.

Cellar floor hatch covers are often equipped with additional smooth running systems. If there are small children or animals in the house, fixing devices are provided. In order to avoid all access to penetration into the cellar, the hatch is equipped with an electric drive.

Design principles for additional functions

The smooth running is designed to facilitate the operation of the hatch. Its cover is equipped with shock absorbers, which provides smooth closure to prevent injury. When installing such a mechanism, the cover must be open. There are several ways to equip the lid with a smooth ride.

  • The most popular is spring, which uses spring-loaded hinges like the hood of a car. It is suitable for lightweight metal or wood manhole structures. The door lock is positioned so that it opens perpendicular to the floor.
  • And also apply gas shock absorbers. Used for hatches with heavy doors.

As a rule, such hatches are equipped with folding, hidden or removable handles. The advantages of these options are that children are prevented from entering the basement. In the case of self-production, it is better to use simple, inexpensive options for which the use of metal products is not provided.

Electric drive structures. The electric drive is installed in several ways. To install the simplest option, you will need:

  • electric motor;
  • duralumin pipes;
  • steel sheets;
  • welding machine;
  • grinder with cutting wheels;
  • cable;
  • current source;
  • three position switch.

For the mechanism to work properly, the hatch cover must open less than 90 degrees. It is set in motion by a rotation system, opening or closing the lid with a rod. The control is carried out by a remote control.

The retractable system is more complex, but allows you to make the hatch cover almost invisible. Its installation will require:

  • steel sheets 5 mm thick;
  • two electric motors;
  • metal rollers;
  • three position switch;
  • current source;
  • cable.

A hatch for floor tiles requires the development of a drawing in which the parameters are displayed:

  • width and length of the hatch box;
  • frame and opening thickness;
  • hinge arrangement

The installation of such a hatch requires an even base, therefore, a leveling screed is poured before installing it. To do this, you must perform several operations:

  • Determine the level of the floor covering, taking into account the thickness of the tiles and the adhesive layer approx. 12 mm.
  • Prepare the solution and place the beacons.
  • Flange the opening for the future hatch, leaving about 100 mm around its perimeter for the support for the cover.
  • After the solution has hardened, a preliminary fitting of the hatch is carried out.
  • Start tiling from a corner that is visible. The opening is finished after installing the frame for the hatch cover.

To decorate the ends, the following procedure must be observed:

  • install the frame by aligning it, guided by the building level;
  • fill all the gaps between the frame and the screed with a solution;
  • after the mortar has completely hardened, the tiles are laid in the area around the opening, with the necessary adjustments and trimming of the tiles, for this, beacons are installed, then the cement mortar is poured and leveled;
  • slopes are also tiled, until the glue layer is completely dry, it is recommended to fix the tile with tape, having previously installed the delimiting crosses.

The procedure for installing and facing the hatch cover

The hatch is hinged using any of the above mechanisms. Then the finishing of the fixed lid begins. To do this, you can use floor tiles or other finishing material. The main requirement is that its appearance is in harmony with the rest of the design of the room.

In wooden houses, hatches are usually not finished, but simply covered with linoleum or other material on top. For example, laminate flooring can be used.

How to do it?

To achieve the visual effect of the absence of a cellar hatch, its covering must fully correspond to the covering of the entire floor. That is, if it is a tree, then the hatch cover must also be of the same wood. Or if it is parquet, then the hatch, respectively, should look the same.

Standard cellar hatch. The hatch cover is made with a slight decrease in size, so that it fits completely into the opening of the basement passage. The resulting gaps should not exceed 5 mm. First of all, four supports from a bar are nailed to the wooden flooring, which will serve as a support for the cover. Blanks from a floorboard are made 80 cm each. Then a 79 x 79 cm square is cut out of plywood. A 1 cm gap is deposited between the hatch and the floor, this prevents deformation from moisture and temperature changes.

The lathing of the inner side of the hatch is made with short slats or slats 79 cm long. Parts made of wood must be covered with at least one layer of drying oil. This is done to protect them from moisture and fungus.

In height, the hatch should correspond to the rough and finish coating and consist of three layers:

  1. plywood sheet, on which the batten is stuffed;
  2. insulation is placed in the space between the slats;
  3. on the slats, fixing the insulation, a finishing layer from the board is stuffed;

Nailing the top layer is best done parallel to the floorboard. This design is lightweight, so it is suitable for mounting on ordinary hinges from the basement side with a gas closer. The plastic box has its advantages, but is more expensive.

The thickness of this entire structure should correspond to the thickness of the floorboard.

Metal construction should be sturdy compared to wood. It is problematic to make a lid for it yourself. For its manufacture, a base is cut from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. Along the perimeter of the base from the inside, corners are welded using a welding machine, on which stiffeners are attached. Insulation is located between them.

The entire total area of ​​the lid is divided into 4 equal parts. When working with metal, all seams must be cleaned. The width of the insulation must fully match the width of the corner. On top, the insulation layer is fixed with a sheet of steel or tin using self-tapping screws. For the manufacture of the entrance frame, the corner is cut into fragments according to the dimensions of the hatch hole. Further, the corners are welded to each other and fixed to the concrete with anchors, one of the sides of the frame will play the role of supports for the hatch. A seal is attached to its ledge to retain heat and protect it from excessive friction. The connection of the cover itself to the inlet frame is carried out by reinforced hinges with a gas closer. Floor tiles are ideal for kitchen furnishings.