Laying street tiles. Do-it-yourself paving stone laying

Paving slabs are a product that is actively used today for flooring in a gazebo, on a porch or in other areas. The main advantage of tiles is their durability. But this criterion is particularly influenced by the observance of technology during the arrangement of the base and the quality of laying work.

Consider what is better to lay paving slabs. This article will only touch on technical issues.

Laying methods

Paving slabs can be laid out in three ways:

• on the sand;
• on concrete;
• on the ground.

How to lay tiles on a concrete base is detailed.

On concrete

This method is advisable to use in the case when the site on which the laying will be carried out already has a concrete base. It should simply be cleaned of dust and dirt, moistened and applied with a layer of solution. After these works, paving slabs are laid. The laying technology is similar to the principle with a sand cushion.

On the sand

Dry laying occurs when the owner plans to make changes to the building project in the future. In addition, this method is actively used by those who do not want to mess with cement mortar. Dry laying is a great solution for chaotic or random pavement patterns, with space between products.

On earthen ground

This laying option, like on the ground, has become widely known during the design of summer cottages, as well as in the courtyard of a private house when laying tiles in the country, and this is naturally the easiest. In this case, a large tile is used that imitates natural stone. Tiles are laid in prepared pits (preparation is required), and then the tamping process is carried out using a wooden hammer. The space between the tiles and the edges of the pits is eliminated with soil.

Mortar laying technology

In this way, you can lay most of the types of products. The process of laying on a concrete base begins with preparatory measures.

The technology for laying polymer sand paving slabs is described.

Action plan:

1. Marking the area on which the track will be located.
2. Remove the top layer of soil from the marked area.
3. Make a recess of 3-4 cm.
4. Tamp the bottom of the pit and cover it with crushed stone, the layer thickness of which is 10–20 cm, tamp again.
5. Install borders.

Before preparing the solution, it is necessary to lay paving slabs on a layer of sand. You need to lay it out in the order in which it will have to be operated.

To obtain a concrete solution, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• cement grade 500;
• quarry crushed stone of fraction 10-20, 20-50;
• paving slabs 50-60 mm thick;
• corresponding to the established ;

• sand;
• water;
• vessel;
• shovel or electric drill.

For cooking in the appropriate, you need to take cement and add the right amount of water to it. Using an electric drill, mix everything and add 4 parts of sand. Mix everything again and the solution is ready.

Laying process:

1. Remove 4 tiles from the sand and apply mortar to this place.
2. Reinstall the product. Do the same with the rest of the tiles.
3. This must be done until the entire sidewalk is laid out.
4. It is imperative that there is space between the tiles. And this can be achieved if you install special wooden struts.

Screening laying technology

How to lay tiles on screenings? This installation method is the most economical. At the same time, this will not affect the quality of the final coverage in any way.

The laying process and technique is carried out according to the following plan and subject to a specific rule:

1. Mark the place and plan the flow of water. Such measures are necessary so that water does not accumulate on the finished site. To effectively remove water, you need to make a slope of 1-2%. You may also be interested in .
2. Remove the top layer of soil. The depth of the removed layer depends on the intensity of use of the coating. As a rule, it is in the range of 15–50 cm. If the soil is weak, then it can be further compacted. Pour screenings over the dug hole. If you want to make a quality foundation, then the minimum number of layers should be 3.
3. Pour crushed stone and tamp well. Its thickness can be 5–10 cm, since the crushed stone sits down during tamping, so make a margin of 10–15%. spread out screenings up to 7 cm thick. Tamp well.
4. Lay down again, but adding cement to it in a ratio of 1: 4. tamping field, make sure that this layer is 5 cm higher than the desired level of the tile.
5. . This process can be performed using a cord, the tension of which is carried out at the required height. The process of installing the side edging takes place on a concrete base, the width of which is 20 cm, and the height of the concrete castle is 15 cm.
6. Material laying. During the process, you need to clearly follow the pattern. With special care it is necessary to lay out the first row. Tile installation must be tight. If irregularities are formed, but they must be eliminated. The quality of the work performed can be checked using a marking thread when making roundings, pay attention to the fact that the width of the gaps on the outside has a minimum size and does not exceed 8 mm. To cut tiles, you can use a circular saw or grinder. For these purposes, a diamond disc is used.
7. Surface grouting. When the surface is laid out, it is necessary to fill it with river sand. Then, using a mop with a hard bristle, grout. Even for these purposes, you can buy special formulations, but their cost is high.
8. Tamp the surface. At the end of all work, it is advisable to take a vibrating plate (vibrating machine) and with the help of a rubber gasket and seal the entire surface. If there is no such tool, then there is nothing to worry about, since such an operation is not mandatory. Just so the tile will be firmly and securely fixed.

A vibrating plate is a tool necessary for compacting and leveling a mixture of concrete when laying paving slabs. The design of the equipment assumes the presence of a metal beam and a vibrator of the IV series.

How to lubricate molds for paving slabs read.

On the video: how to properly lay paving slabs on screenings (instructions):

Laying granite paving slabs

Granite paving slabs are a building material that is actively used when laying areas. But today I actively use it for other purposes. The main advantages of granite tiles are high strength and reliability.

The order of work / in stages:

1. Perform area marking.
2. Lay the base in the form of geotextiles. Why geotextiles are laid under paving slabs will tell.
3. Lay a layer of crushed stone on top of the base, the thickness of which is 15–25 cm (preparation of the base)
4. Using a rake, form the required slope.
5. Tamp the laid out layers.
6. Using sand and geotextiles in the process, perform a secondary foundation device.
7. Treat the second layer with water and install the side edging around the perimeter. For the base, you can use lean concrete. Fixing the edging is carried out using a cement-sand mortar.
8. When all the preparatory measures are completed, you can proceed to laying granite paving slabs. So that at the time of operation the tiles do not fall out, the gaps between the products must be eliminated with sand.
9. Each laid row must be compacted using a rubber mallet.
10. Upon completion of work, treat the finished surface with a weak jet of water.

On the video - laying granite paving slabs

Laying tiles in various weather conditions

Today, the question remains whether it is possible to lay paving slabs in the rain? No one can forbid this, because before laying even the sand is slightly moistened by the craftsmen with water. If you want to get a high-quality coating, then you need to do all the work in dry and warm weather.

Do not install during rain, which immediately begins to freeze slightly. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to do all the work again. The reason is that frozen water expands. Therefore, when the tile is level and everything is fine, but after the frost it will be warm, the water will melt, reduce its volume, and the tile will shrink.

How is the laying of material in the gazebo, on the porch

Today, many owners use paving slabs to lay out the floor in the gazebo or on the porch. It is very easy to carry out this procedure.

First you need to stock up on the following materials and equipment:

• quarry sand;
• fine gravel;
• cement grade 500;

• paving slabs;
• rubber mallet.

The action plan is the following:

1. Remove the top layer of soil, its depth should not be less than 20 cm.
2. Lay a layer of sand and gravel. The thickness of each layer should be 3 cm. Thoroughly compact everything and pour out a layer of sand with cement.
3. The last two layers can be replaced by a conventional mortar, for the preparation of which sand, cement and water are used. The layout of the solution should not be carried out immediately, as the material is laid.
4. You can level the laid tile surface with a rubber or wooden mallet. If you use any other tool, it will damage the product. The main difficulties that arise during this process depend on the shape of the selected product. Not everyone can do this job. As a rule, the laying of all material is carried out according to the principle of assembling puzzles. All the same can be done with a large slab 300x300x30

What is a plastic tile for paths in the country you will find out.

On the video - a video lesson: laying paving slabs yourself and with your own hands (crisis option):

Cost of work

If you decide to use the services of an experienced specialist, then you need to know the price / rates for laying 1 m2. the cost may vary, as it depends on the chosen laying method (how much does paving slab laying cost, you need to find out in advance

• Laying turnkey tiles on a concrete base per square meter - 2100 rubles, on crushed stone - 1650 rubles.
• Laying on the finished base - 400 rubles.
• Laying material on sand - 1400 rubles.
• Laying granite tiles - 1400 rubles.
• Laying a product with a pattern - 450 rubles.

Laying paving slabs is a process by which you can get a durable, reliable and practical coating. It is actively used for arranging gazebos, squares, and courtyard areas. The service life of the finished surface depends not only on the quality of the product, but also on the exact observance of the laying technology.

Paving slabs are an ideal option for covering paths and areas in front of a country house. It is characterized by increased wear resistance, practicality of operation, highly aesthetic appearance. Installing it is not a very complicated process, while laying paving slabs with your own hands requires compliance with certain rules, which are described in our step-by-step instructions.

In our article, we will tell you how to properly lay out paving slabs with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need for this, and also give useful recommendations in video tutorials.

The main advantage of self-assembly is the maximum reduction in the cost of the process. For any work you need to pay, and services of specialists today cost a lot. In addition, with self-laying, you can do everything without haste, following all the recommendations.

At the same time, it is quite difficult to find workers capable of laying the slab with high quality and correctly. The desire of any team is to complete the order quickly in order to receive payment, quality often suffers from this. With self-laying, the owner will be able to take into account all the features of his site, because only he knows the weaknesses well.

It is unlikely that a team of hired workers will take these nuances into account so carefully, unless they demand sky-high pay for their work.

The disadvantage of self-assembly is the need for a thorough study of the rules, additional costs for the purchase of a special tool for work.

Main types and selection rules

The composition of the paving slab is a cement mixture with the addition of various dyes, mineral components, plasticizers. The use of high quality raw materials guarantees compliance with GOST, therefore, the durability of the coating.

Proper dosage, adherence to technology - quality assurance, therefore, it is worth purchasing material from trusted manufacturers, not chasing the cheapness of handicraft production.

It is advisable to give preference to the option that has additives of granite chips, polymers, high-quality clay. It is better to refuse the option consisting exclusively of a concrete-sand mixture, since it will not last long.

Modern manufacturers offer the consumer There are two main types of paving slabs:

• . It has most often a rectangular, square or diamond shape, uniform colors.
• . It is made by hand, therefore it is distinguished by a larger range of colors, the maximum variety of shapes.

When choosing, the quality of the base is taken into account, functional purpose of coverage areas. Experts advise choosing a material of small sizes, as it is more resistant to cracking. It is important to consider the thickness of the blocks. The minimum is three centimeters, for parking and car passages - at least 5-6 centimeters.

The color and shape are selected in harmony with the decoration of the building of the house. considering your own preferences. The installation of a diamond-shaped and rectangular slab is more complicated, it requires the use of some work skills. It is easier to lay the curly one, because the flaws are less noticeable.

IMPORTANT. When choosing a stove, one should take into account its environmental friendliness, since heating the surface in summer will cause the release of harmful substances, which will adversely affect the health of the family.

Each plate is carefully examined, its quality is evaluated. It is worth refusing to purchase material that has the following disadvantages:

• Inhomogeneous structure of the outer side.
• Too bright color.
• Uneven coloration.
• Dark spots on the reverse side.
• Clots of material in the structure.
• Smooth, high gloss surface.

ADVICE. By knocking two copies against each other, you can determine their quality: a dull sound indicates the fragility of the material. A high-quality plate should be sonorous.

We will tell on the pages of our site everything about! You will learn many useful tips and tricks.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to purchase tiles, supplies, tools.

How to calculate the amount of material needed

The calculation method depends on the drawing that is supposed to be posted. Complex compositions require a special approach and specific recommendations. The quantity is calculated based on the selected pattern, after drawing up a preliminary sketch plan of the entire site.

If simple shapes are chosen, it is worth remembering the school geometry course and calculating the area of ​​a specific geometric figure, which is a plot or its individual parts.

The area of ​​all parts that need to be covered will be taken as a basis. The number of tiles per square meter is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, therefore, by simple mathematical operations, the required number of purchased kits is calculated.

Experts advise to purchase material with a margin one square meter for each part of the surface to be covered. This is necessary so that there are fewer joints in non-right angles.

REFERENCE. There are special online calculators that automatically calculate the number of tiles after entering parameters (lot area, block size). Using it, they make accurate calculations.

Additional border available, which is set to prevent blocks from moving around the edge. Its quantity is calculated according to the length of the perimeter of the covered area.

When purchasing material and planning the size of the coating, you need to try to make calculations in such a way that there is no need to lay cut copies around the edges. The fewer cut pieces will be in the coating, the more aesthetically pleasing it will look.

What you need

Do-it-yourself installation of paving slabs requires using special tools:

• Rammer
• Roulette.
• Rubber mallet.
• Line or cord for marking.
• Rule.
• Level.
• Bulgarian with discs for concrete.
• Master OK.
• Rake.
• Broom.

In addition to tools, consumables are purchased:

• Sand (on a standard plot 2-3 tons).
• Cement.

Foundation preparation

Careful preparation of the base is the key to high-quality laying. After making a plan, marking is carried out using pegs with a thread stretched over them. The quality of the soil of various parts is preliminarily assessed, the sides of the slope are clarified. If it is located towards the house and yard buildings, a drainage system is preliminarily thought out.

Sites are carefully leveled., the soil is removed with a height of 15-20 centimeters. Then the surface is compacted. At the same time, drainage and sewer pipes are being installed.

After leveling and tamping crushed stone pillow is poured. For do-it-yourself garden paths made of paving slabs, the thickness of the layer is 10-15 centimeters, for parking lots and the roadway, the thickness of the crushed stone is doubled.

The pillow is rammed by a special machine, is covered with geotextile, which will prevent the penetration of sand between the rubble. In areas with weak, loose soil, geotextiles are additionally placed under crushed stone.

The prepared pillow is poured with a cement-sand mixture (1X5), sand is poured on top of such a height that, before tamping, the plates are 1 cm above the surface.

ADVICE. To prepare the base, it is advisable to use guides from boards along the height of the pillow. Particularly careful preparation requires a foundation in the event that the site has soft soil. It is rammed after moisturizing.

The whole further process will depend on the quality of the preparation of the base.

Important to avoid mistakes! If you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands, watch the video of a person who decided to lay it wrong:

Safety

The organization of work requires compliance with safety measures:

• The workplace is freed from foreign objects.
• If the slab is laid on a concrete base, the notches are made with goggles.
• All work is carried out in rubber gloves so that the skin is not injured and corroded by the cement mortar.
• The sorting of the material and the processing of the edge of the tile is carried out in tight mittens.
• Knee pads are used to protect the legs.

On our site you will also find out! How to work with such surface paving elements?

About the features of laying porcelain stoneware and how to properly prepare the base for this material - read.

You will learn how to make steps from paving slabs with your own hands by reading our following material:.

How to lay correctly: technology and work procedure

After preparing the base for laying tiles with your own hands, the following steps are necessary:

• Pull the cord along the edges of the tracks and platforms with the help of stakes.
• Install curbs along the borders, digging them into the soil to the desired height. For greater stability, the curb is fixed with cement mortar.
• Arrange drainage for the outflow of water. The pipe is wrapped with geotextile, placed in a prepared trench next to the curb.
• Further, starting from the curb, begin to lay the slabs. Rows can be arranged diagonally or in a straight line. The rows are laid away from themselves so that the prepared base does not collapse when the workers move along it. The laid paths must be strictly parallel to the stretched cords.
• For the uniformity of the gaps between the tiles, special crosses are used.
• The slab is laid on a sand cushion, tapped on top with a hammer for a snug fit to the surface. If a distortion of some specimens is noticeable, the blocks are lifted, a cement-sand mixture is poured under them for leveling. The building level is used to control the horizontal.
• If corners or obstacles are encountered along the laying path, they should be bypassed with whole specimens. Then the remaining places are filled with suitable fragments. The tile of the required shape for these purposes is cut using a grinder with a disc for concrete. These areas are filled as a last resort.
• After laying all the rows on a continuous area, the seams between the tiles are covered with a mixture of sand and cement. Excess that did not wake up in the cracks must be brushed off with a broom.
• After all the gaps are filled with a sand-cement mixture, the surface is poured with water from a hose so that the blocks are fixed together. It is imperative to put a diffuser on the hose so that the jet of water does not knock out the filling mixture.

You can watch the process of proper laying of paving slabs with your own hands in this installation video tutorial:

Another useful video tutorial on how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands - what you need for this and how to lay it correctly:

IMPORTANT. When laying each section at the end of the day, it is covered with a sand-cement mixture and thoroughly swept. If this is not done, moisture that accidentally enters can spoil the appearance of the coating even before the end of all work.

Coating care

For the durability of the coating and maintaining its beautiful appearance you must follow the rules for caring for him:

In fact, this is a simple process that you can completely handle on your own, but you should not rush. The work requires thoroughness, painstaking work, it is better to do the work slowly, carefully following the recommendations of specialists.

Paving slabs in the country house or in the courtyard of a country house can perform not only a decorative function, but also a utilitarian one. In order for it to look beautiful and withstand the load on it without problems, it must be correctly laid.

Many homeowners prefer to have hired professionals take care of the process, believing that they will perform all the necessary operations as well as possible. But some people do not trust hired workers, and prefer to do all the important manipulations on their own.

How possible is it to lay paving slabs with your own hands? It is quite possible to do this, the main thing is to have step-by-step instructions at hand. It describes in detail the sequence of all upcoming operations and the order in which they are performed.

Laying the yard with paving slabs: preparation

Before starting work, you need to carefully consider them and draw up a plan. This will guarantee a long and reliable service life of the manufactured coating. Laying out the entire yard with tiles is not very rational and cost-effective.

But paths are necessary on any site - it can be quite difficult to do without them. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the required number of tracks, their size and configuration, so that they connect the residential building with various outbuildings and other buildings.

Then, in any weather, the homeowner and his household will move along neat clean paths. Yes, and green spaces will suffer much less.

Why paving slabs? This material is increasingly being used both in industrial construction and in private.

The advantages of such a road surface are obvious. Installation work is not particularly difficult. The tile does not "float" during the heat and does not burst from severe frost.

She looks beautiful and is not capricious in care. The tiled area passes moisture well, which is useful for both soil and plants.

Step by step instructions for laying tiles

Important notes that will help you lay the tiles correctly

Do not start work immediately after the rain, especially during it. The soil and pillow should be well dried out. In order for the tile not to start to spread after a while, the humidity indicators should be minimal.

Laying paving slabs: work progress

To carry out the work you will need - cement, curb, sand and tiles directly. The required tools are pegs, a rule, a rammer, a broom, a nylon thread, a rubber mallet, a trowel and a level.

We start with marking the site, or rather, with determining the contour of the future path.

The site is marked with wooden pegs, which are connected with a nylon cord. It must be correctly tensioned exactly to the level, as it will become a guide when laying tiles.

To properly equip the base, you will have to cut and remove a layer of turf, then level the resulting surface, moisten and tamp with a special rammer.

• If the soil is dense enough, then often it does not need such manipulations. Plant roots and stones found in the ground should be removed.
• If the soil is not removed, then the path will be, as it were, slightly raised above the surface of the site. The consequence of this may be its washing away with rain or melt water.
• The resulting compacted bed is covered with gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm high.
• If the path is intended for the movement of cars, then this figure should be increased to 40 cm. (Geotextiles can be laid under and on gravel).
• For leveling, sand is poured on top - its thickness should be approximately 2 cm.

Border for paving slabs

What is a border for? Its purpose is to prevent the tiles from spreading and highlight the path. Is it mandatory to use it?

No, often when laying out the tracks with tiles they do without additional finishing. The base under the curb must be carefully leveled. It is best to place it on a special concrete castle. For paving slabs in a private area, it is quite possible to use a plastic border.

Substrate preparation: options for laying paving slabs

The bases for paving slabs can be different - there are three types in total. Depending on the type of base chosen, the way the tiles are laid also changes.

On the sand. The space between stretched cords or curbs is covered with sand. The thickness of such a pillow should be 5-6 cm. The sand is well soaked and left to dry, after which it is leveled and compacted. The tile is placed on slightly damp sand (never wet).

On concrete. There can be two options here: when the concrete base is already available, and its device specifically as a substrate for tiles. This method is considered not very rational.

The point is that the cement monolith retains water (does not let it through). It accumulates between the tile and the base - in severe frost it freezes, causing deformation of the track.

On a cement-sand pillow. On the prepared base (with the soil removed, leveled and rammed), another 3-4 cm sand layer is poured, a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. Next, a mixture of cement and sand is placed on it in a ratio of four to one.

Technology of laying paving slabs

Tiles should be placed from the lowest point upwards. Competent masonry should be carried out in a way “from oneself”.

In other words, while doing the work, the specialist moves along the already laid path so as not to endanger the prepared base. If a circular tile installation method is used, then activities begin in the center of the pattern.

Individual tile elements should be placed diagonally, not in even stripes. So it will be easier to align them in the process. First, a rope is pulled along the width of the future path, along which the initial row of material will be aligned. Every two or three times the correctness of the horizontal is verified by the level.

The tiled element is placed in the place prepared for it, and brought to the correct position by soft tapping of the hammer.

If necessary, sand can be poured under it. A gap of 2-3 mm left between the tiles is usually quite enough for moisture to escape. In order for the gap to have one value over the entire distance, special crosses can be used. But in practice, they usually do without them.

Laying turnkey tiles: grouting

In order for a do-it-yourself path to be beautiful and durable, you will have to take care of the correct processing of the seams. They are usually filled in two passes.

First, dry sifted sand is applied to the freshly made path. Using a brush or broom, it is leveled over the surface and swept into the seams.

The next layer that should be poured onto the track is a sand-cement mixture or sand. He is treated in the same way as the first.

Then, with a sprayer or with the help of other improvised means, the path is moistened quite intensively - until puddles appear. If there is a border, then the distance between it and the tile is covered with a mixture too. You can purchase a mixture for factory-made seams.

In order for the paving slab track to serve for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for it. Such a coating does not need any special procedures: it should be regularly swept and washed occasionally.

Then she will retain her original appearance and remain elegant for as long as possible. In winter, you should protect it from damage by not using rough metal products - shovels, ice axes and crowbars.

In place of asphalt pavement in the courtyard of the residence and in the dacha, paving slabs emerge.

Paving slabs are much more attractive and practical than asphalt pavements.

It is stronger and more practical than asphalt, and its appearance attracts more attention. The tile is not afraid of rain, it is in perfect harmony with the facades of buildings. So that the installation does not require special equipment, it can be easily put on with your own hands.

Tools and materials

Paving slabs may be needed to perform laying work:

• metal or wooden pins;
• rubber mallet;
• building level;
• hose with manifold;
• broom;
• rake;
• shovel;
• long rake (usually);
• putty knife;
• rope;
• sabotage;
• brand of cement not lower than M-100;
• sand;
• geotextile;
• pipe diameter about an inch;
• gravel or crushed stone;
• paving;
• curbs;
• Bulgarian

Main stages of work

Preparatory work

The place chosen for laying paving slabs should be marked with rope and dowels, which are easy to make.

How to lay paving slabs? You must start by preparing the page. It's good to have a plan of all sizes. In each case, you need to independently measure the area in order to correctly calculate the amount of working materials. The laying area is marked with a thread and pegs. They mark the boundaries of the area for tiling. The soil is then removed. This should be done evenly throughout the site. The lawn is removed to a depth of about 20 cm, it is recommended not to leave plant seeds and their roots.

After digging, the area is filled with debris or gravel, leveled and compacted. A layer of cement-sand mixture is applied to the base prepared in this way. Its thickness can be up to 40 cm, and 15-20 cm is enough for laying the sidewalk, sand and cement are mixed in a ratio of 3: 1. For dense laying of the mixture, it must be moistened with water. A layer of geotextile can be placed between debris and sand. This protects the ground or pavement from grass growing through the tile.

The constant string or string is retrieved. The level is checked with a level.

At this stage, you need to specify the direction of the slope. Usually this is done in the yard from the house, towards the street. The street level in this case is considered as the initial zero mark. Two dowels are knocked out along this line. A strong thread or scaffolding is stretched between them. The level is checked with a level. The line level is applied from below.

From one peg, a line or line is drawn perpendicular to the first. The free end is attached to the third pin and cuts into the ground above the first two. The angle of inclination should be about 5 degrees. The fourth pin is clogged, the line is extended. It turns out a rectangle indicating a platform for laying tiles.

The entire site is divided into strips with a width less than the length of the rule. The bands are limited to pins and fishing line. The shovel and rake should now level the soil in each lane. The gap between the substrate and the thread must remain two thicknesses of the plate. Precision is no longer required. You will need to ram the soil, which will need to be poured.

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Paving slabs

Lay steel pipes under the threads that mark the boundaries of the tape. Pipes must be strictly parallel to the thread and be at the same height.

Now you can go directly to laying paving slabs. First you need to prepare a mixture of 5-6 parts of sand and 1 part of cement. The sand must be wet. Place this mixture on the surface of one strip and beat thoroughly. Route the pipes under the threads that limit the belt. Skip under the line and keep it on the surface of the pipe. They show where to add and where to remove the cement-sand mixture. The result is a flat surface.

Paving slabs must be checked and sorted before installation. There may be disadvantages. The main ones are: turtle, cymbal and propeller. In the first case, the paving slabs are convex, in the second - concave, in the third - curved. Such paving stones when it can be put down.

It is necessary to leave small gaps of 3-5 mm between the tiles to allow water to pass through the rain when it rains.

Tiles are laid on the foundation with a minimum gap from each other. If necessary, it is enclosed with a rubber mallet. level controlled. If necessary, cut off an excess piece of stone with a meat grinder. After laying paving slabs, they should be sprinkled with clean fine sand, and then wiped with a hard mop or broom.

Pavement paths in the country, properly tiled with their own hands, give a special charm to the entire site. They can be straight or curvy, patterned or unpatterned. Tiles can be laid in various stages, terraces and sloping paths.

Choose the correct tile thickness. The ideal coating thickness is 40 mm. A thickness of about 55 mm is required for living space. If a truck passes by, install a plate of even thickness. Previously, paving stones were used for these purposes. Marking path boundaries may require boundaries.

There are several options for the correct laying of paving slabs with your own hands in the yard or in the country. If it is laid on sand with cement, over time the tile and base will turn into a monolith. But even in this case, you can disassemble the entire structure. Reasons for disassembly may vary.

Install the curb sections and secure them with thick mortar.

Crushed stone is recommended for unstable soils. You can do without soil on sandy soil. In any case, the surface on which the tiles are laid must be carefully leveled and compacted. In this case, the soil can be poured or removed. When using curbs, you should be aware that they can be even or slightly higher than the path. The main task of these elements is to hold the tiles on vast soils. Borders give a clearer layout. For their installation, trenches were dug, covered with a layer of sand 5 cm thick, a curb slab was installed on this pillow, leveled, fixed.

It is equally suitable for the entire border. Sand or soil is used to secure the individual components. The depth of the trench should be such that it protrudes above the surface of the tile by 60 percent of its height. It is better to calculate the width of the path from the curb to the curb so that you do not have to cut and adjust the tiles.

Sand is poured onto compacted soil in a layer about 7 cm thick, moistened with water and compacted. A layer of debris must be poured in a closed place and a reinforcing mesh is laid. When leveling the surface, especially in the yard of the house, leave a slope of about 5 degrees for the flow of water. In practice, this is about 5 mm per m. The slope is made away from home, and not vice versa.

This sidewalk requires periodic maintenance. Sometimes it is removed; in winter, a tool with metal tips cannot be used to remove snow or ice. No need to paint tiles and chemicals.

The first row of laid tiles can be secured with cement mortar to prevent the tiles from spreading and lying on the curb. You can tighten the cable to keep rows even. It is best to cut and lay tile pieces after laying the main system. A fully tiled surface can be compacted with an additional vibrating plate, if available. Then the surface will be perfectly flat. It remains to sprinkle all the river sand and clean it to fill all the seams. Joints between tiles can be filled with a mixture of 1 part cement and 10 parts sand. Moist water required. If the ground or path is in a wet place, the sand can be broken into 3 parts.

Paths laid with their own paving slabs require periodic maintenance. They must wash, remove snow and ice from them. It is undesirable to use sharp metal tools. There is no need to paint and treat paving slabs with chemicals. This is bad for tiles.

If the installation is not difficult, approach the square surface more responsibly. The territory is large, the loads in the form of cars are significant, and the surface should look nice and neat. The most reasonable choice in this case is stone slabs. Unlike concrete, work can be done in stages, the tile itself is quite durable and, if necessary, can be easily repaired.

The thickness of the tile can vary from 2 to 6 cm. For yards where cars can drive, it is worth choosing a 4 cm thick tile, as it can crack. Tiles with a thickness of 2-3 cm are only suitable for road surfaces that are not suitable for increased loads. A vibrating plate is a little more expensive than a stamped one, but stronger and more beautiful.

The color, shape and pattern on the tiles are selected based on the appearance of the house. Gray is the cheapest. The easiest way to place your hands is with a figured tile, a more complex one is a small diamond-shaped and rectangular one. The required number of tiles is calculated depending on the area of ​​the yard, the calculation method may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

In addition to the required tiles:

• sand without clay (2-3 tons to the central courtyard),
• cement,
• curb to isolate the site,
• fishing line or strong thread and marking pins,
• for cutting concrete
• rubber mallet or mallet
• shovel
• press for compacting soil and sand,
• the rule has a length of 150-200 cm.
• tape measure and level
• handyman or handyman
• old hard broom or brush
• protective gloves.

Preparation phase: marking and sealing

Sodium and topsoil are removed from the tile site. A layer of sand or fine gravel 5-7 cm thick is placed in the formed bottom.

Before starting work, determine if there is a slope that will prevent water from accumulating. The best option is to lean a few degrees towards the street. If the yard tends to go home, drainage must be provided.

The lowest point of the terrain is considered as the zero line, and the line to which the plane is inclined is considered as the zero line. Two pins are clogged at its ends, and a thread is stretched between them, which must be strictly horizontal (this is checked by a level). Another thread is attached to one of the already driven pins and pulled out perpendicular to the first. The other end is attached to a hairpin so that the entire thread has a few degrees of inclination towards the zero line.

The thread is again attached to the third pin and fixed parallel to the zero line strictly horizontally. The fourth and first dowels are connected to each other, forming the contour of the platform, inside which the tiles will be laid. If the page has a shape other than a rectangle, you can visually divide it into parts and create an outline for each.

For convenience, the entire page is already divided into strips 10-20 cm wide in accordance with the rules. They do this by placing equal distances on the strands perpendicular to the zero line and hitting the pins. The pins are connected by a thread that is horizontal and at the same level as the threads that form the sides of the rectangle.

The marker is a complex and difficult step, but only when properly applied will the tile fit with professional quality.

When selected on the page, equals sand. Removed where it reaches the thread and added where it is far away. Therefore, the distance between the thread and the surface should be 8-9 cm along the entire length, and the sand is well leveled and crushed.

Laying tiles

Before laying the tiles, they should be inspected, removed if they are defective or broken. Appropriate tiles are laid around the entire perimeter of the landscape, taking into account the color and pattern, so that when laying they do not always lag behind it.

Immediately before laying, prepare a ratio of 6: 1. It is better to wet the sand. So that they do not dry out, they are prepared a little for each strip.

The cement-sand mixture is distributed along the first strip, horizontal and well compacted. At the beginning of the bar, they add more mixtures, hammer them with their hands, and even out using the rule. Lay the plate in, making sure that its sides match the marking thread. Click on it, dip in the mixture, tap with a hammer. Also arrange adjacent tiles and then rows. The distance between the plates is about 5 mm. In those places where the tile will experience increased loads - at the curb, the gate should be laid not on the mixture, but on the cement-sand mortar.

Rows of tiles are stacked on their own to go already stacked. Obstacles in the form of hatches, covers, pillars worth whole tiles. All the work of finalizing and finishing the elements is best done at the end. The plate is cut with a diamond grinder and then broken off.

The joints between the tiles to be laid must be filled with a mixture of cement and sand. It crumbles on top of the tile and is then removed with a stiff broom or brush. If the job is delayed by several days, this operation is repeated at the end of each day. This backfill further enhances the tiles.

The edges of the place where the tiles were laid out border on the curb. A narrow trench of the correct depth was dug under it, a small solution was poured into it and a curb was installed. Empty spaces along the curb are filled with cut tiles or special "halves" that each manufacturer has.

Finishing

After laying all tiles and borders, the joints must be filled again with a mixture of sand and cement. If there is such an opportunity, it is worth walking on the lined tiles with the help of a vibropress, which makes an even stronger impression on the base. The finished place is abundantly flooded with water - it washes the sand and, penetrating under the tile, helps to bind more tightly to the sand cushion.

Paving slabs are an excellent material that allows you to decorate and decorate the yard of any country house or private house. It is available in various colors and shapes, making it possible to realize the most extraordinary projects. We understand the technology and installation features of this popular, reliable and economical material.

Paving slabs - what are the advantages of coating?

Many owners of plots and private houses are thinking about what material is best used to clean recreation areas, surfaces in the yard and on their territory. Among the various products used for such purposes, stone slabs can be particularly distinguished. Many designers say they are second to none in the field of landscape design.

This coating has the following main advantages:

1. 1. Practicality and environmental friendliness. The tile does not lose its hardness under the influence of sunlight and high temperatures, does not emit harmful volatile substances. The seams between the individual products, after laying, let water into the ground, which eliminates the possibility of puddles in the yard.
2. 2. Affordable price. The cost of a tile depends on the type of material, while it always remains acceptable. It is very difficult to find a more rational and at the same time very functional and attractive option for arranging the territory.
3. 3. Huge selection of textures, configurations and colors. The top coat allows for all types of architectural designs.
4. 4. Durability, easy maintenance, local repair is possible. The tile is not afraid of frost, has a low abrasion coefficient and exceptional strength properties. If any part of the coating is damaged, it is easy to repair it yourself. To do this, you only need to name a few products.

The main advantage for many self-taught craftsmen is that this material fits easily without the help of specialists. The technology of its installation is simple and clear. Laying is carried out in stages, taking into account the properties of the surface, which serves as the basis for the tiles.

Product choice - honeycombs, waves or diamonds?

The choice of stone slabs should be approached responsibly. There are several variations of this. And each of them is designed for specific purposes. First of all, we note that the tile is made in two ways:

1. 1. vibration impression;
2. 2. pressing (vibrocompression).

Experts advise to stop choosing products made using the first technology. It consists of the following elements: a specially selected combination of elements is mixed with water and poured into a specific shape. There, the solution is stirred for some time and then dried. Finished tiles made by this method are the most durable.

The stamping is a little different. The mixture of ingredients is also poured into the prepared matrix. There the solution is reduced. The amount of pressure is clearly planned. After some time, the semi-finished product is removed from the mold and dried. Stamped products are cheaper than vibrating ones. But the quality, reliability and aesthetic properties of the latter are much higher.

Then we need to deal with the thickness of the described products. The range varies from 2–6 cm, thin coatings should be laid on garden paths, recreation areas along which vehicles will not move (cars, heavy equipment). In the yard where it is possible to drive a car, it is better to use products with a thickness of 4-4.5 cm, and in places where cars move constantly and quite actively, more massive sidewalks are installed.

The next step is to choose the shape of the products. The greatest demand concerns the configuration of Gzhel tiles, cuts, undergrowth, clover, paving stones, flower, wave and scales. Brick and diamond coating looks very original. But for beginners who are planning to install tiles for the first time, it is not recommended to use them. Installation of such products is considered the most time-consuming. Even experienced craftsmen always charge more for such work. Pick a color of your choice. At the same time, remember that gray tiles are always slightly cheaper than colored tiles.

Assembly technologies - draw up a plan and markers

Independent laying of paving slabs of various configurations is carried out using simple devices. We need the following materials and tools:

• rake;
• putty knife;
• hammer (rubber or wood);
• broom;
• pipe (section does not matter) or I-beam;
• sabotage (instruction);
• line;
• a watering hose equipped with a sprayer or a conventional garden watering can;
• dowels (wooden, metal);
• curbs;
• building level;
• sand, cement - preferably M500 (ready-made dry mixes are often used instead), gravel (crushed stone) with a fine fraction - 10-50.

The creation of technology requires a series of operations performed sequentially. First we plan the tile installation scheme and create a drawing, then we mark the paths and pages, prepare their bases for work. And only after all these procedures go straight to the sidewalk. Laying tiles in most cases takes place on the sand. A less common method of installation on a mixture of sand and cement. Suitable for cases where the surface of the previously cemented place is made in the courtyard of a private house. At the planning stage, sketch and indicate the areas of the tiles on it.

Then we determine the surface pattern, quantity and configuration of the products. Based on this data, you can accurately estimate what building materials and in what quantities we will need. Then we begin to mark the sides and paths for installing tiles, focusing on the drawing. The operation is performed with a string, pegs and a tape measure. After marking, it is recommended to review the results of the work, to evaluate the ease of use of the future coating. If necessary, we will quickly adapt our plan.

Basic layout - we create a reliable support for the board

The success of a planned event depends on how well we can do it. The base must be flat and solid. Then the coating will not lose its characteristics over time due to displacement and subsidence of the soil. We remove the lawn from the landscape to a depth of about 20 cm, we achieve the ideal cleanliness of the site. Grass seeds, other plants, bushes and tree roots should not be left behind.

Then we level the cleared area (in some places we remove excess soil, in others we spray it), we run it over the ground with a garden rake and compact it with a hand tamper. Soft soil is lightly wetted with water before compaction. The high quality base seal eliminates the risk of uneven slab settlement after installation. If the soil is loamy, drainage (water flow) must be arranged immediately. It is internal and external. The first is to create a slight slope (1 square of earth - 1 cm) at the stage of excavation and laying drainage pipes. The external drain is also inclined. But with one caveat. This implies a deviation to the edge of (any) surface of the paving slabs themselves. The recommended value of external drainage is up to 3 degrees.

Go forward. We install limiters - curbs on the sides of the prepared excavations. They are necessary so that the tiled platform or pavement track does not disappear. We repair curbs with a concrete mix (two parts sand plus part cement and water). then:

• We fill the trench with a layer of gravel (10 cm) or debris.
• We place the geotextile on top. This gasket increases the strength of the base.
• We fill the geotextile with sand. It is important! We use large and well-moistened sand. Pour in a layer up to 15 cm thick.
• Fill the sand with water (quite plentifully). We are waiting for several hours.
• The most concentrated sand sabotage.

That's not all. After tamping, it is desirable to create an additional laying layer under the tiles. It can be mixed independently from sand (3 parts) and cement, or you can buy a ready-made composition from a DIY store. The height of the additional layer is about 3.5 cm and the mixture is spread evenly with a garden rake. Then make a link to the channel.

Beautiful paths and playgrounds - coating assembly

Properly positioned products that we believe are very simple. To make a yard within a yard or properly lay paths in the garden and without unnecessary complications, you should consider the following recommendations:

• You have to lay the tiles yourself. This means that when performing work, we must move along the already assembled sidewalk. Thus, our careless movements will not damage the leveled and compacted base.
• Products are mounted in the direction of increasing track (platform) from the lowest point.

We have already said that the tile mix in most cases is made of sand. To do this, use well-dried and always fine sand (not coarse, which we used to create the base).

Cement-sand polyurethane foam consists of 3 parts of sand and one cement. Such a laying composition is suitable for forming non-folding coatings. You cannot fix them!

We engrave sand in lighthouses. Therefore, we even use a finishing pipe (steel can be made from aluminium). We show them strictly according to the level. And one beacon on each meter of the created path is placed 1 cm above the other. This is necessary, as you remember, to ensure the flow of water. After installing the beacons, carefully level the mixture of sand (or cement and sand).

Now we are waiting for the most important stage of work - laying the first rows of paving slabs. They must be well presented. If this is not achieved, the surface will be unsightly and short-lived. The assembly algorithm looks like this:

1. 1. We measure the position of the first line of products and draw a thin line across to the row.
2. 2. Install the first plate. It should be at a distance of 4-5 mm from the curb.
3. 3. We accept the level of construction. We check the correct installation of the product in the longitudinal direction (correct installation in the transverse direction is controlled by the line that we stretch).
4. 4. We put the next tile, relying on the first, as evenly and tightly as possible. It is allowed to leave small (up to 2 mm) gaps between individual rods. We then fill them with used build mix (i.e. sand).

After laying the entire first row of the planned place, we check the accuracy of its height. If the product protrudes from the surface, disassemble it, remove some sand, reinstall the plate. We also take out the damaged rods, fill in the mounting mixture, install them back. The procedure may be delayed. But we must achieve good quality. When all the tiles are aligned, hit them with a hammer. Finally, check the correct installation level.

Then mount the rest of the rows. Here the operation will be faster and will be much more pleasant. Difficulties can only arise when installing non-integrated pieces of tiles. It is recommended to install them last. We take the entire product, use it at the installation site, mark the line where it is required. Cutting is easiest with a diamond blade on a grinder. If a power tool is not available, cut the rod with a metal saw. This process is long and tedious, but there is no other way.

Final work - final steps

At the last stage of landscaping paths and plots on private property, the seams are covered with sand. If the gaps are clearly visible after installation, they must be filled with a mixture of sand and cement, to which a few drops of liquid glass should be added. It is important! When the sand is filled with gaps, it is necessary to rinse it with a jet of water from the sprayer on the hose. The flow of liquid pushes the material into the seams and fills them tightly. Pour the sand again into the empty space in between and rinse it again with water. This procedure can be repeated more than once until the seams are tightly clogged.

While the coating is working, we periodically add sand to the seams between the individual elements, as described above. This is due to the fact that the material will be washed away from the structure during heavy and heavy rains. This is perhaps the only condition for maintaining platforms and paths made of paving slabs. If you follow it, an elegant and durable coating will serve you for many decades, admiring its appearance with its beauty and originality.

The technology of laying paving slabs on sand is the simplest and can be used in the absence of high heavy loads expected on a hardened surface. Most home craftsmen will be able to do the work themselves if all the recommendations in this article are strictly followed.

Tile types

For laying sidewalks in suburban areas, paving slabs made from concrete by the method were most often used. The vibrating plate is distinguished by a wider range of colors, a variety of shapes and an affordable cost. But extruded topcoat products have higher strength, frost resistance and durability.

When laying on sand, the slabs must be at least 40 mm thick. A thinner material is applied to a cement-sand base or glue.

Tiles types.

The shape and color of the material are chosen at the discretion of the site owner. The easiest to use is a rectangular and square product. Laying curly material is much more difficult, and if you do not have experience in performing such work, choose a tile with a simpler shape.

The use of dense and heavy natural stones is much less common due to the high cost of the material and more complex processing when laying. Of course, you can turn to a team of professionals, but the cost of such a service is comparable to the cost of obtaining material, so it is wiser to do the installation yourself.

Working tools and materials

First of all, you need to prepare a special set of construction tools and equipment:

• mechanical or manual sabotage;
• shovel and shovel;
• building level;
• the principle of plaster;
• 10 meter tape measure;
• wheelbarrows or stretchers for transporting materials;
• construction spatula;
• brush;
• metal and rubber hammer;
• cord rates and margins.

From the purchased materials you will need:

• coarse sand;
• portland cement M400;
• crushed stone fraction up to 40 mm or gravel;
• border material;
• trays for concrete waste;
• paving stones;
• pure water

Cutting tiles to the required size when laying along the edge of the path is carried out using an angle grinder with a diamond disc.

Laying technology

Laying sidewalks using artistic materials takes place in several stages:

• plan development and marking in place;
• ground tray device;
• curb installation;
• drainage layer device;
• sand filling;
• laying materials for tiles and drainage trays;
• sealing and finishing work.

The expected thickness of the layered layers depends on the expected weight load on the hardened surface, the density of the soil at the construction site, the thickness and quality of the pavers, and some other indicators.

Marking and excavation.

preliminary work

Even before laying paving slabs on the sand, it is recommended to draw up a schematic plan of the yard area with buildings and trees applied on it. On this diagram, draw the location of the planned walking paths and playgrounds. At the same time, it is necessary to move away from the trees by one and a half meters and ensure that the path slopes away from the buildings.

Then, using the plan, hammer in the pegs on both sides of the path and pull the rope. Once again, check the correctness of the markup and only then proceed to the physical indicators.

To prepare a stable base for the hardened coating, it is necessary to place the recessed tray in the ground. To do this, remove the top layer of soil. At the same time, the depth of the clay tray consists of the thickness of the tile, the underlying sand layer of 8-10 cm, and the layer that supports drainage, the thickness of which depends on the expected load on the surface. 8-10 cm is enough for a garden path and 15-20 cm for car parking.

After digging the ditch, the bottom of the ditch can be treated with herbicides to prevent weeds from sprouting, or to cover well-compacted soil. Geotextile provides good drainage of the drainage layer and prevents weed growth. High-quality soil compaction will protect the mass structure from settling in the future.

Set border

Before you fill the garbage, a support and drainage layer is needed. This will require metal studs that are hammered in such a way that you can pull the cord along the outer edge of the curb. The tension height of the cable should be the same on both sides of the track and match the setting of the outer edge of the stones.

Borders should be laid on a cement mortar, which is laid along the bottom of the trench along the edges. Each curb must be tested at building level for vertical and horizontal installation. Leveling is done with a rubber mallet, as using a metal mallet can break the material.

Bedding and backfilling device

The gravel layer has two functions. It discharges the incoming water further into the ground and is the bearing (foundation) basis for sandy platforms and stone slabs.

If necessary, the device is a thick layer, backfilling occurs in layers of 5-7 cm with the density of each layer separately. Crushed stone should be sprinkled with sand and covered with geotextile fabric. The canvas will stop the penetration of sand into the sewer under the influence of moisture, and the sandy layer will protect the canvas from damage by the sharp edges of the stones.

Device with and without geotextiles. At high groundwater levels during snowmelt, it is recommended to remove them by laying one or two drainage pipes along the edge of the path and diverting water into a sump or drain into a reservoir.

Sand layer for tiles

The described technology ensures the installation of a dense layer of sand before laying paving slabs on the sand. This layer is a retainer for paving stones, ensuring its immobility horizontally and, most importantly, vertically. A sufficient layer of sand is 8-10 cm, and with small loads on the track, it can be reduced to 5 cm.

The sand must be well compacted and leveled with plaster or a flat wooden rod. To get a completely flat surface for precise alignment, you can install signaling devices along the path. The number of beacons is arbitrary, but in the middle of the path, the beacon is higher than the others.

Schematic options for sand bases under tiles. Sand can also be moistened with water. In this case, it will be more difficult to compact, but the quality of the compaction will increase, and, consequently, greater strength and moisture resistance of the coating will be provided.

Laying tiles

The pavement is laid on a layer of dry cement-sand mixture 2-3 cm thick, which is laid out on compacted sand during laying. The ratio of cement and sand for the preparation of the mixture is 1: 5.

You need to start by installing side drainage trays, constantly checking for the necessary slope for the flow of rain and melted water. They are placed next to the curb along the entire length of the tracks.

After installing the trays, place one row of tiles along the path, making sure that the surface is not slightly tilted from the center to the edge. Such an arrangement of tiles will ensure that water is drained from the surface of the caterpillar into drainage trays. Between the plates there should be seams from one and a half to two millimeters.

If there are discrepancies in the edge plates, they can be adjusted with a diamond grinder.

Sealing tiles

After laying paving slabs on the surface of the sidewalk or platform, the seams between the tile, the gutters and the curb must be carefully sealed. This is necessary to prevent rain and molten water from penetrating the cured coating and also to prevent possible failure of the coating during ice formation.

Seams are sealed with a dry cement-sand mixture or liquid cement mortar.

When you use dry mix, it is scattered over the surface of the lane and wiped off with a soft brush or broom. Then water the hardened surface. Repeat this in a week or two. You may also need to update the toppings after the fall/winter period.

Using a liquid grout to seal the joints will provide better quality and density, but will require additional effort to clean the hardened surface from cement deposits.

The simplest and most economical ways of laying paving slabs are obtained with a straight or parallel arrangement of elements. Sloping or shaped surfaces produce a significant amount of waste. Especially for people who don't have great skills in this kind of work.

When cutting a tile, there is no need to cut it to the end. Just cut about a quarter on each side and then separate along the seam. This will reduce the amount of dust in the workplace and stop the use of the respirator. In addition, this method can speed up styling time.

The level of durability and stability of the tiled floor depends on the quality of the grouting layers and the bottom of the base. A dense compacted base will become a reliable support for the laid tiles and will be able to withstand heavy loads without breakage.

Instead of a curb, you can use paving slabs laid along the edge, clinker bricks or other similar materials.

To increase the service life of the laid material, it is recommended to treat the surface with a special hydrophobic composition that will protect the tile from moisture.

In order for paving slabs to serve you for a long time and with high quality, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology of their laying. Minor mistakes in the process of laying tiles, after several years of operation, can cause deformation of the coating. In the case of paving slab technology, the following should be considered.

Paving slabs - material features and properties

Paving slabs are becoming more and more popular not only for public purposes, but also in private households. Streets, squares, parks, sidewalks, garden paths and front yards are decorated with this practical material.

The principle of production of paving slabs depends on its type. The vibropressed version of the tile has a dense structure and a rough surface. For the production of such tiles, vibrocompression is required. Next to the vibropressing mechanism is a matrix, inside of which there are molds for making concrete. Most often, in the manufacture of tiles, a standard concrete mortar is used with the addition of various additives that improve its quality. It is quite possible to make this tile at home, if you have a house or a purchased concrete block. Thus, the cost of the material is reduced several times.

Tiles made by vibrocasting require the use of plastic compounds for their production. With these substances, you can imitate a brick or wooden surface. The appearance of such a tile is more pleasant than in the case of vibrocompression, it is quite popular in private housing.

Paving slabs often have the shape of a parallelepiped. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the coating provides the strength of paving slabs. As for the method of manufacturing the material, there are:

• a shredded version of paving slabs is cheaper, but driving on such roads is almost impossible and inconvenient;
• The sawn version of the tile has smooth edges and creates a smooth finish when laid.

Paving slabs are an excellent paving material that has many advantages, namely:

• resistance to temperature and frost - the average durability of the material for 10 freezing cycles in one winter is 45 years;
• moisture absorption is ensured by the presence of gaps between the tiles, because they contain sand, water gradually flows out of the tiles during rain and does not remain on it;
• high level of compressive strength, bending and abrasion;
• A variety of shapes and sizes of tiles, as well as colors in which they are made.

As for the material from which the tile is made, it happens:

1. Concrete is the most popular production option, which uses concrete and a vibropress. The material creation process is as follows:

• solution preparation;
• wlewanie go do the form;
• drying in a heating oven;
• cutting elements.

This method allows you to get different colors and shapes of the material with high productivity.

2. The paving slab clinker option is somewhat similar to a brick. For the production of the material, a clay solution is used, which is fired in special furnaces at high temperatures. This tile has high strength, a variety of shapes and colors.

3. The granite cobblestone option is the most expensive and strongest. For the manufacture of such tiles, natural stone was used.

Before laying the material, we recommend that you read the tips for choosing paving slabs. First of all, it is necessary to determine its purpose, since the thickness of the material on a regular garden path and on a car platform will be different.

Before buying a material, think about its surface. In the presence of small chips, pay attention to the porosity of the plate. High-quality material will not contain a large number of pores and small inclusions.

Touch one tile to another, if the product has already dried well, the sound will be loud and not boring. Otherwise, there will be moisture inside the cobblestone, which will degrade its quality during operation.

Scratch one tile to another if they wear out quickly, the manufacturer has gone too far with water and the effect of this material will be short lived. The presence of an excess amount of dye in paving slabs also adversely affects its quality. Therefore, give preference to less saturated and more natural colors.

Ask the seller for documents confirming the product certification, because the tile is a rather expensive material, and it is likely that it will go to a low-quality manufacturer.

How to lay paving stones on the sand

Before you start laying paving slabs, you need to prepare tools for installation work in the form of:

• construction spatula;
• rubber mallet;
• a hose from which water is supplied, it is desirable that it has a collector;
• ropes, with the help of which the boundaries of the site for laying paving slabs are determined;
• measurement level;
• rakes, shovels;
• broom;
• marking pin;
• equipment for the production of high-quality whipped sand.

Before laying paving slabs on the sand, you need to prepare:

• tile directly;
• high quality cement;
• coarse sand without additional inclusions;
• medium-grained fractional stone;
• dry tile adhesive;
• geotextile materials;
• channel channel;
• water level;
• brush;
• tile options;
• drainage pipes if there is a swamp or soil with a high content of clay.

There are three ways to install stone slabs:

• on a sandy bed;
• on the surface of the debris;
• on a concrete base.

Initially, you need to make a drawing of the site where the work was done. The tile installation plan is also shown in the figure. Then, using pins with a string, mark up the page. Walk along the previously built track, check it for ease of use.

Then start work on preparing the foundation for work. In order for the grass to grow on it when the tile is working, you need to get rid of the fertile soil layer about 18-20 cm thick, get rid of the root parts and seeds of vegetation, as well as stones.

If the groundwater level is too high, a drainage system should be arranged. For this, special pipes are installed at a depth of about 85 cm from the ground.

After removing the fertile soil layer, it is necessary to level the site as best as possible. In addition, he was thoroughly beaten. If you don't have special whipping equipment, use a regular strap with handles attached.

Then a pillow for sand and debris is laid on the base. Then the soil is watered, carefully compacted and leveled. Install stones around the perimeter of the site to make a border. Sand-cement mortar must be prepared for their fixation. The thickness of the sand layer for laying paving slabs on the sand with your own hands is about 15-20 cm.

To flatten the pillow, use a beating tool and water from a hose. Then the process of laying paving slabs with your own hands begins. The distance between the two plates is several centimeters. At the same time, the tile must form a flat surface. To punch tiles, use a rubber mallet, which should be horizontal. To check the flatness of a tile, use the building level. Further laying of the tile is to install it in the same position as the previous one. To fill in the gaps between tiles, use sifted sand and the brush will help seal it in the gaps. To wash off the remaining sand from the tile, fill it with water.

It should be remembered that the basic principle of long-term work of the material is that before laying the tiles on the sand, the base is carefully leveled and knocked out. Otherwise, there is a risk of settling.

The technology of laying paving slabs does it on its own based on crushed stone

The initial stage of surface preparation is the same as when laying tiles on a sandy substrate. Initially, this place is free of dirt, topsoil, plant roots, etc.

Then install curbs with sand and cement mortar. Then it is necessary to prepare a sand-cement composition in a ratio of one to three. Pour a mass of 10 cm thick on the base, after laying the paving slabs, level it with a rubber mallet. Pour the tile after installation with water and wait a few days until it is completely dry. Then fill the joints between the tiles with sand and beat them with a brush. Wash their tiles with sand. The operation of the tile begins a few days after its installation.

Paving slabs are laid independently on the basis of their concrete

To accurately lay paving slabs and for a long time, they should be applied using a special solution. The preparation of the base is the same as in the previous two methods of installing paving slabs.

After obtaining a smooth base, pour gravel about 15 cm thick and beat it.

In addition, depending on the shape of the site, formwork is formed. Edged wooden board is most often used for production. To strengthen the wooden edges, use dowels in the form of supports. They form half a meter apart.

The presence of a concrete mixer is mandatory for tile laying work. Thanks to this, a solution is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of one to three. Then fill in a small part of the base and place a plate on it. The thickness of the layer is about 5 cm, while paying attention to the slope of the surface on which the tiles are laid. Because the concrete mortar will not pass through the water on the tile when it rains.

If there is too much space for laying tiles when the car is standing on it, it is necessary to strengthen the space. Small gaps remain between the concrete shelves, which help to compensate for the expansion of the material during seasonal deformations.

Any mortar with high elasticity is suitable for filling the joints. The slope of the graph must be set from the center to the edge.

To fix the curbstones, use the same solution that matches the tile. To additionally fill the seams between the tiles, also use sand. Please note that the absence of an oven negatively affects the further use of the tile, since it is it that allows you to keep it in the right position. Periodically, during the operation of the tiles, drain the sand into the seams.

Laying tiles must take into account the fact that its front surface must be at ground level. To check the evenness of the tiles, use the water level. If the tile cannot be leveled with a rubber mallet, it must be lifted and repositioned. To cut tiles, use a grinder and a special stone cutting attachment. If there is a special uneven terrain on site, it must first be leveled with a concrete base, and then a sand cushion should be placed on it.

The sand used to fill the gaps between the tiles must be free of impurities in the form of plant seeds and their roots. To prevent vegetation under the tiles, a geotextile layer is laid before the sand layer is laid.

If there is no road transport on the site, it is enough to lay the tiles on the sand without using cement. If the soil has a high level of unrest, a sandbox is a must. Lay the tiles only apart from each other, without moving on the previously laid floor. Install the entire tile first, then cut off the pieces. To set the curb straight, pull the cable into place.

The many benefits of paving slabs make them the material of choice for paths and sidewalks. Regardless of the purpose of the pavement, we can find tiles, thin and thick, in the form of paving stones. There are options to meet the requirements for sidewalks, driveways and even make the road for heavy traffic.

Unfortunately, despite the many advantages that this material has, it also has a rather serious drawback. The price of its laying and leveling is approximately twice its cost. Therefore, many people look for ways to save on installation by trying to organize the whole process themselves, especially when laying sidewalk in their own yard, on a driveway to a house or on a terrace.

Is it possible to lay paving slabs on sand without sand? How to prepare for work and what is required for it? What kind of sand is best to cover? How to avoid the most common mistakes and, finally, how to lay paving stones on sand step by step? In this article you can find all the necessary tips and advice on these issues.

How to design a pavement surface?

Before you start laying, you should think about the layout of the track. It is necessary to plan the width and pattern in such a way as to minimize the need to cut the tile. This will allow you to work faster and without unpleasant surprises in the form of cracked plates, crooked elements or installation difficulties.

A photo. Cutting tiles is quite a chore, so it's best to avoid it if possible when planning your track pattern.

When planning the layout of a terrace or walkway, we must also consider water drainage. You can organize different options for water drainage:

1. linear outlet;
2. in the form of gutters in the sidewalk;
3. plan for elevation changes.

The elevation difference is planned towards the ground adjacent to the tile, for example, into the lawn. It should be borne in mind that the surface of the sidewalk should be raised above the surrounding area so that we can avoid it being polluted by water flows, in addition, this makes it easier for water to penetrate the ground. The correct arrangement will allow the tile, even after rain, to dry quickly and be always clean.

When buying a tile, you need to pay attention not only to its decorative qualities, but also to the thickness. Different sizes are suitable for different purposes. Tiles with a thickness of 4-6 cm are used for paving walkways, sidewalks, or decorative strips around the house, while for surfaces with increased load (entrances to the house and garage), you need to choose an option with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm.

Before you get started, you need to prepare the following tools:

You will also need the following materials:

• sand;
• cement.

Work step by step

The creation of a sidewalk always includes several stages, which, depending on many parameters (type of soil, nature of the use of the sidewalk, pattern), may differ slightly from each other.

Stages

The following general steps can be distinguished:

1. Designation of the area of ​​work, preparation of tools and equipment.
2. Site marking and preparation.
3. Installation of curbs.
4. Laying tiles.
5. Grouting and finishing work.

Most of the work when laying different tiles will be the same, with the difference in step 4. Depending on the type of paving: stone, paving stones or paving slabs, the material is laid slightly differently using different bases.

Designation of the work area, preparation of tools and equipment

Laying tiles begins with the transfer of the project to the ground. It is important to plan the shape of the path or pavement, determine the location of the control points, preferably where it is important to make sure that the pattern is laid correctly or where there are some changes that should be taken into account. For planning, pegs and lace are used, with which they “draw” the shape of a path, platform or road.

Marking and preparation of the site

Work begins with the formation of a recess that corresponds to the course of the sidewalk. The depth of the excavation depends on the use case of the pavement - the higher the load, the greater the depth should be, since the thickness of the base should be greater. The recommended depth is:

• for sidewalks, paths, terraces - the depth should be from 15 to 20 cm;
• for more loaded areas, for example for car paths, this depth is at least 50 cm.

The depth of excavation also depends on the type of soil:

• on sandy soils, it may be less;
• on clay, where it is necessary to remove the impermeable layer, the recess should be larger.

In small areas, excavation is usually done manually, and in large areas it is worth using specialized equipment that can be rented.

The earth from the recess must be carefully selected. The soil can be moved to the site, especially if its volume is large, and professional equipment is required for transportation. It is important to select the entire fertile soil layer, as it is very valuable and can be used to create flower beds and beds.

The bottom of the recess must be flat, smooth and regular in shape - if we are planning drainage in the form of a height difference, the bottom of the pit should be properly formed, planning the drain. The difference should be about 1 - 2%. After all the necessary soil layer has been selected, tamping of the site can begin.

Installation of curbs for paving slabs

To clearly define the course of the pavement surface and give it the desired stability and durability, you need to install curbs. The edges of the curb are fixed on a cement foundation. Curbs take on a large load from the surface, so they should be installed very carefully and diligently. They are a frame that enhances the surface of the sidewalk. The edges must be planned so that their surface is flush with the surface of the tile. The transition from the surface to the curbs should be smooth. The size of the border, as well as the tiles, depends on the type of substrate, as well as on the nature of the use of the surface. Borders can vary in thickness, height and strength.

Drainage installation

Drainage is installed on the prepared surface.

Water diversion can take two forms:

After the above work, you can begin to prepare the substrate. This work takes place in several stages, depending on what kind of soil we have and what kind of surface we plan to create. Foundation preparation can be done in several ways. The base consists of several layers:

• native soil;
• crushed stone;
• bedding, sometimes without a layer of rubble.
  

After removing the fertile layer, the soil is strengthened. For this purpose, the substrate is removed with a shovel, and then this layer is mixed with cement. Mixing is done with a rake. After completing this work, compaction is carried out with a manual or mechanical rammer.

Then the base is made. This is a layer that can consist of a mixture of screenings, gravel, crushed stone or clay, the thickness of which varies from 5 cm and above - depending on the use of the pavement. Then the base layer is leveled, compacted and the bedding is scattered on it.

What is the best sand to work with? The backfill is usually fine sand or sand mixed with cement. This layer is not compacted, it is simply leveled and laying begins. The sand will compensate for the possible curvature of the track, which should not be too big! Depending on the type of paving slab - stone or concrete, as well as depending on the type of substrate, these steps differ from each other, which will be described below.

Laying of paving slabs should begin after opening all packages. This will avoid possible differences in the color of products from different batches. When laying the pavement, use the elements from each package.

Do-it-yourself tile laying - video

Laying stone paving slabs and paving stones

Stone paving slabs are used in open areas and in private households, both for roads and on sidewalks, ramps or sites. It looks very stylish and elegant, and works well in homes decorated in both classic and modern styles. On the market you can find stone tiles that vary in size, thickness and shape.

stone paving

Stone sidewalks require the use of stone curbs. Sometimes cobblestone borders also work well with them, which, like others, must be attached to a concrete base. The basis under a stone blocks is gravel, elimination or their mixture. A layer of fine sand is poured onto such a base and then paving stones are laid. If the soil is permeable, and it is planned to use it for footpaths or to drive with a small load, then you can abandon the gravel layer and lay stone blocks on a layer of sand with a thickness of 5 cm to 20 cm.

Stone paving stones are laid 2 cm above the level. After laying, each element is driven in with a rubber mallet, then the cracks are filled with fine-grained sand, sweeping it into the cracks. This arrangement is ideal for patterns such as waves, fans or circles.

If it is planned to lay a long stone cobblestone, in a pattern with lines, a substrate in the form of crushed stone 17–23 cm thick may be required. A layer of sand is poured on it and then laid.

stone tile

Laying stone tiles is most often used in pedestrian areas, the process is similar to the laying of paving stones above. The tile is laid on sand, the layer of which has a thickness of 15 cm - on permeable soil. An area with impermeable ground where water stagnates is not a good solution. Therefore, in this case, two layers will be used as a foundation: the first (which is deeper) is a gravel mixture, i.e. a mixture of sand and gravel of various fractions (15 cm thick), and the next layer is sand with a layer having a thickness of 2 - 3 cm.

If we are laying large tiles, it is not always necessary to use borders. To stabilize the entire structure, cement mortar fixation can be used.

Concrete pavers are the most popular pavement solution today, primarily due to their attractive price, but also due to their good technical parameters and a wide range of options. Unfortunately, sometimes due to excessive patterns and colors in the composition, we get an ugly tasteless and lurid result. Therefore, when choosing paving stones, it is important to think carefully about the design of the sidewalk or the platform with which it will be paved.

Concrete pavers are currently produced in four thicknesses: 4 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 10 cm.

Depending on the purpose, a different thickness of the material is chosen:

• 4 cm - for sidewalks or decorative stripes around the building;
• 6 cm - for areas with low traffic (pedestrian and light transport roads for cars weighing up to 3.5 tons);
• 8 cm - for street roads and parking lots;
• 10 cm - roads for heavy vehicles, buses and other heavy vehicles.

Most often, concrete pavers are produced in various colors. There are refined options, the surface of which is decorated with crumbs, and the texture can be more decorative. There are also pieces that are deliberately aged or stylized, hence their great popularity.

The advantages of this material include relatively easy assembly, dismantling or repair of any damage. Concrete cubes are also very resistant to stress, abrasion or external factors.

concrete pavers

This type of coating is laid in accordance with the type of substrate and the purpose of the surface (pedestrian, travel):

The paving stones should be placed 1.5 cm above the level, the joints should be about 2-3 mm. The seams are filled with sand and the surface is wetted so that it settles. This is repeated until the seams are completely filled. Then the surface is cleaned and, if necessary, compacted with a vibrating plate with a plastic cover.

Paving stones have many advantages, so they are often used as paving paths and sidewalks in private homes.