Hot master finishing the steam room. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to decorate it, what options are there, examples with photos

It's creative and interesting. As a rule, up to half of the construction budget can be spent on the interior arrangement of premises, which is not surprising. A wonderful relaxation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget finishing options.

Work order

The baths are built in different types, one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper recreation rooms; a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization are installed as additional equipment. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider standard version bathhouses with three functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room or relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room; this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The procedure for finishing activities in a wooden or other bathhouse is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm for finishing work in the bathhouse:

  • floor arrangement;
  • wall covering;
  • installation of the ceiling;
  • installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of premises, will create paradise for relaxation of soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially not difficult. In a wooden bathhouse, logs made of timber 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm are installed, and boards, edged or tongue-and-groove, are laid on them. Hardwood is preferable among materials, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option- larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true in the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150–200 mm to retain heat.

The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and primer to prevent their swelling and the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room; this is reasonable for a brick bathhouse. In a wooden building, the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Treatment with primers from Tikkuril, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles, the most different types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection from moisture, does not allow the inside of the panel - HDF board- swell, does not deform, lasts for 20 years. You can use modern liquid linoleum, which has recently appeared on the market of finishing materials, and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a slight slope and drainage.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made from the following types of trees:

  1. Cedar. Moisture resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and their differences, cedar is most preferable for the walls of the steam room; when heated, its wood releases substances that are healing for the human body and pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
  2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
  3. Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real godsend for a steam room, essential linden oils heal the bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the steam room space;
  4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and relaxation rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a variety of color palette, natural shine and beauty of the design. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes in order for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
  5. Aspen. Unfortunately, it's difficult to find construction market, it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with clapboard made of coniferous wood. For tiling walls, you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, OSB boards, and moisture-resistant plywood.

Washing room tiles are especially relevant in brick building, it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, is easy to maintain, and lasts a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. For brick walls Even decorative plaster of any kind is suitable, including Venetian. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing of the ceilings is similar to the finishing of the walls. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can cover the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, and aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of a steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but it is worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of ​​the steam room is small.

A layer of foil material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. You should not use materials based on foamed propylene foam or polyurethane foam. The optimal insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is the key to safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Decoration of premises

The aesthetics and comfort of the space of bath rooms is formed not only by finishing materials. Required good furniture:

  • shelves in the steam room;
  • font in the washing room;
  • sofa, table for the rest room.

Also needed beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort that ensures the functionality of the space is proper lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, the use of lamps is a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of proper lighting in all rooms of the bathhouse, which creates a mood that promotes relaxation and a pleasant pastime.

Arrangement of a bath complex requires proper attention to the most insignificant nuances. IN perfect place The bathhouse will become a relaxing place only after a thorough study of the theoretical part and the sequence of actions. And already done with my own hands the work will only enhance the positive effect of receiving bath procedures.

Peculiarities

The main feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. To create it, a certain humidity is maintained in the steam room. Humidity and steam balance is achieved by a complete lack of ventilation.

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms. The choice depends on personal preferences and is limited by financial capabilities. The features of the interior decoration should traditionally be conducive to relaxation and spiritual pleasure. Therefore, the main thing in interior decoration is naturalness, convenience, and minimalism.

For example, an excellent natural decor for a steam room is a natural log house. However Newest technologies construction involves the use of more modern methods construction of a bathhouse, so structures often require finishing materials.

Additional materials should not negatively affect the basic requirements for the bath:

  • the steam room, shower, relaxation room should have a beautiful and practical design;
  • in the steam room it is important to have hot but not scalding steam;
  • In the shower, both convenience and safety are important.

Properly selected materials will have a positive impact on the functional features of the bathhouse. They will also affect the service life of the walls, floors, and ceilings of the premises. It is important to choose materials of the right quality in accordance with the characteristics of the bath premises.

For example, a steam room is distinguished by the constant presence of hot steam, which comes in a concentrated form and is quite dense. In addition, there are temperature changes in this room, as well as high humidity.

Many materials may not withstand this extreme situation. However, the modern market offers a lot interesting options finishing that best suits the conditions of the steam room.

The finishing features for the steam room should be as follows:

  • have the ability to warm up and not accumulate heat;
  • be moisture resistant;
  • have good aesthetic characteristics;
  • be resistant to fungus and mold;
  • have the ability to purify the air.

The washing room involves not only washing, but also relaxation. Classic choice: wood, ceramic tiles. For example, suitable for washing coniferous wood. It has high water-repellent qualities. In addition, conifers have a beautiful appearance. The floor in this room should have anti-slip properties, as well as a comfortable temperature. Ceramic tiles can help achieve results.

As a reliable material for the vestibule and rest room, you can choose:

  • porcelain stoneware;
  • plaster;
  • natural stone;
  • wallpaper.

Greater aesthetics and practicality can be achieved by combining these finishes. In a bathhouse created with your own hands, it is possible to realize the most non-standard ideas. Select the optimal types of finishes and their variations.

Materials

Traditional decoration inside the bathhouse made of wood. The most suitable wooden base for finishing is lining.

These special finishing panels there are main advantages:

  • good air circulation;
  • zero condensate;
  • beautiful appearance;
  • easy installation;
  • acceptable price.

The best starting materials for lining are: larch, linden, alder, ash. Hardwood walls warm up faster, while the outside temperature of the walls remains comfortable for human skin.

Unlike conifers, hardwoods do not emit resins, so they are considered harmless for finishing the walls of a steam room.

Pine lining, for example, is not at all suitable for a steam room. When heated, this base will release toxic substances and is also covered with resin, which can drip from the walls and ceiling and cause burns.

Walls

Options for the type of finishing “lining” are classy. For example, class C has a low cost and is suitable for finishing vestibule walls. Class B is equipped with contrasting inclusions, cracks, and minor damage. Every 1.5 meters of length of such a lining implies the presence of a certain number of knots. The lining is suitable for the design of a rest room in a natural style, as well as for a vestibule.

Class A lining allows for a few small cracks. However, it does not allow visible cores on the cut. There may be at least one knot per 1.5 meters of length. Class A lining is suitable for finishing the walls of some areas of the steam room.

Premium class lining has an excellent appearance, but the corresponding price. The material can be used to cover the walls of a steam room, relaxation room, or washing room. Linden croaker will serve as an excellent wall decoration. The material does not allow overheating and does not release resins. Linden panels will serve as high-quality sound insulation; they can be supplemented with unedged boards.

For vapor barrier of the steam room, basalt mineral wool and foil in the form of a film are used. Both the walls and the ceiling are sheathed with foil for waterproofing purposes. In order to insulate the stove in the steam room, it is permissible to use brick and salt for finishing.

It is permissible to use Himalayan salt in the bath. A salt bath combines the positive properties of a dry steam room and a healing chamber, providing a beneficial effect on a person.

Ceiling

Work related to finishing the ceiling begins with laying insulation in the attic. To prevent dust from entering the room, all cracks between the boards must be sealed. Brick chips and other bulk options are used as insulation material.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand temperature loads. Finishing materials must resist steam flows. You should not choose materials for finishing the ceiling that emit toxic substances when heated.

Therefore, it is not recommended to use materials such as plywood or chipboard from the inside - they contain sawdust, which is a fire hazard. Do not choose polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam as insulation, polyethylene films, they are afraid of high temperatures.

The building foundations relevant for the bathhouse ceiling are spruce or pine beams for beams and ceilings, Not edged board or tongue and groove for the first ceiling, class A or B linden lining - ceiling lining inside. Aluminum foil and membrane films can be used for vapor barrier, and membrane films for waterproofing. You can sheathe the steam room with linden and bast.

Linden croaker with bast – perfect option finishing the bathhouse ceiling in a natural style.

Floor

The optimal choice for the floor of all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room, is ceramic tiles. A block of tiles in a steam room may be present near the stove. The variety of modern collections will easily allow you to choose the right design for a relaxation room or washroom. At the same time, tiling will not only be comfortable and aesthetically pleasing, but also practical and durable.

The floor of the steam room can be made of concrete or wood. Concrete or stone floors are cold. Therefore, wood is often preferred. Wooden floors require the preparation of a foundation on which beams are laid, and logs are laid on top of them. The voids between beams and joists are filled with insulation, which is expanded clay. A vapor barrier and waterproofing are laid on top of the insulation, then the finishing floor is installed.

A concrete floor requires a foundation made of crushed stone and clay. Roofing felt and bitumen mastic serve as waterproofing. The insulation can be mineral wool or expanded clay. Finishing layer the floor is laid on a heat-insulating surface.

Design

For example, a steam room is considered the real heart of a bathhouse, and therefore its interior should be living, breathing. Not allowed for use synthetic materials, especially near the stove. All items in the steam room must be of high quality safety and natural purity.

Combinations of finishing materials such as lining and stone, brick and granite slabs, and block house will look especially designer in the steam room. In addition to beauty, the interior of the steam room must be absolutely safe. Therefore, the design of a steam room is often a compromise of choice. IN steam room the strict curves of the shelves, hidden light, and noble stone behind the stove are effective.

If a separate room for vacationers is designed in the bathhouse, then all the attention in the design is to comfort. The same naturalness comes first here. Curtains with flounces and strict blinds on the windows are appropriate in the design. This bathhouse room is usually compact, but bright.

However, there are no special design requirements. It is desirable that everything be decorated in fairly calm colors, conducive to a comfortable pastime.

Modern bathhouse involves the arrangement of a washing room. Full plumbing fixtures are allowed for installation here. Often this place is a pool of unimaginable shapes. Due to the lack of space for arranging a swimming pool, showers are installed in the washing room. Stylish modern shower stalls will not take up much space, and will fit well into the interior of the bathhouse. It is not even necessary to allocate a separate room for showers.

The internal washing area in the Russian bathhouse was also built around the stove, in the steam room. Simple basins and ladles served as washing objects. Taking into account the possibilities modern materials all this can be implemented in the current bathhouse buildings.

Designer design baths can be interconnected with personal perception of colors and their combinations. This feature depends on the physiological structure of the eyes, the state of the nerves, and life experience. Psychologists say that for women color is more important than shape, while for men content is more important. At the same time, a person has the ability to associate something with something all the time.

Bathhouse design is a purely individual choice and should be based only on your personal idea of ​​relaxation.

How to finish it yourself?

The basis of a Russian bath is a stove. Best materials for the heater - natural stones, bricks.

For floor installation, edged boards are allowed, and the work itself includes several stages.

Step-by-step instruction:

  1. Getting rid of all debris, leveling the base.
  2. Preparation of concrete screed. This step can be skipped if the rough base is already sufficiently leveled. The base can be covered with sand.
  3. Laying brick bases that will support the logs. The height of the brick bases is equal to the height of the flooring.
  4. Attaching joists to posts. Logs are boards with a section of 25x25 in increments of 100 cm.
  5. Laying floor boards. Work should begin from the corner away from the room relative to the doorway. Self-tapping screws are suitable for fastening. It is important that the caps are completely embedded in the wood when screwing in.
  6. The floor design must include a drain.

After laying the floor, the walls are covered. A frame base is installed for the cladding. The frame material is timber or simple slats. It is important to consider the load level here. For example, shelves are often attached to walls; the slats will not support them. The direction of the frame base should be perpendicular to the lining.

Guide to work stages:

  1. Install the first and last strips on the wall using self-tapping screws. The pitch of the guides is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the insulating materials.
  2. Strengthen the waterproofing material over the frame.
  3. Start working with insulation (for example, mineral wool).
  4. Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Individual sheets of material are better fastened with a construction stapler.
  5. Start arranging the lining, starting from the farthest section of the room.

After covering the verticals, proceed to ceiling work. Lining is also allowed for the ceiling. An edged board or timber is suitable as a frame. The pitch of the frame corresponds to the size of the insulation boards. The frame is installed similarly to the walls.

Step-by-step instructions:

  1. Attach a layer of moisture-repellent base over the frame.
  2. Next, fill the gaps with insulation (for example, basalt wool).
  3. Level the slabs carefully.
  4. Install a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation using a construction stapler. Provide an overlap of 20-30 cm. Glue the joints with aluminum tape.
  5. Proceed to the installation of the lining.

To complete the interior decoration of a bathhouse, you need knowledge of the properties of wood and stone, safety requirements and minimal skills in working with wood. We will talk about the materials and types of finishes recommended for use in the bathhouse, and you will have to acquire the skills of a joiner and carpenter along the way.

Does the bathhouse need finishing?

Regardless of what kind of bath you have - Russian, Finnish sauna or Turkish hammam, a bath means high temperature and high humidity. Without completing the finishing, without insulating the walls, floor and roof, you will be forced to heat the steam room for hours, and with it the surrounding air, literally throwing money away.

Due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, moisture will settle on the walls as condensation, which over time will lead to the formation of fungus, mold and rot. wooden structures. If the building is made of masonry material (brick or blocks), a steam room without finishing can cause burns if it comes into contact with a hot wall. Only in the case when the bathhouse is cut down from logs or built from timber, can it be left without additional finishing if the thickness of the walls provides normative resistance heat transfer If this is not the case, go back to reading the first sentence of the paragraph.

If the bathhouse is made of logs, complete interior finishing may not be carried out

There are many safety requirements for finishing a bath:


The walls and floor of the bathhouse are most often insulated with stone or basalt wool, but this is not the best option: mats and slabs of mineral insulation contain a small amount of bitumen binder, which evaporates under the influence of high temperature, as well as tiny particles of fibers that cause irritation when deposited on the skin.

A safer and more economical option - foam glass insulation - avoids these disadvantages. Vapor barrier is performed with aluminum foil or foil-coated polyurethane foam, which belongs to the group of non-combustible materials and will serve as an additional heat insulator.

Finishing materials for a bath - how not to make a mistake

The interior decoration of various rooms in the bathhouse is carried out different tasks, in accordance with them, the type of finishing is chosen.

Table: requirements for finishing a bath

RoomPeculiaritiesType of finish
FloorWallsCeiling
Steam roomHigh temperature - fire protection of wood is required. Humidity - impregnation with antiseptic and fungicide is requiredCeramic tiles or porcelain tiles with waterproofing, hardwood flooring, drainageHardwood cladding, stone or brick cladding at the heaterFalse ceiling made of hardwood
WashingHumidity - materials are needed that allow surfaces to be washed periodicallyCeramic tiles or porcelain tiles with non-slip surface, drainageTiling or finishing with materials that allow wet cleaningmoisture-resistant painting or suspended ceiling
RestroomNo requirementsWood or heated floors with tilesNo requirementsNo requirements

Steam room finishing

To cover the steam room, it is better to use hardwood, which does not release resin when heated. When choosing a material for wall cladding, you must remember that a bathhouse is not only pleasant, but also useful. By inhaling the phytoncides released by heated wood in the steam room, we increase the body’s resistance to colds and heal the respiratory tract.

Type of woodAdvantagesFlaws
OakStrong wood, durable, great appearanceSlips when wet, high price
AshDurable wood with beautiful design, rot-resistantHigh price
BirchLight pleasant aromaProne to rotting, does not hold its shape well at high temperatures
LindenIt has a pleasant color, when heated, it emits a delicate aroma, is resistant to rot and high temperatures, and is affordableNo
AspenLow price, light pleasant aromaSubject to rotting, over time changes color to dirty gray
AlderBeautiful appearance, affordable price, odorless, does not absorb odors, durableNo

If you are interested a budget option finishing - choose alder, if there are no cost restrictions, then the best option is ash.

A bathhouse trimmed with ash clapboard will look prestigious and expensive

For lovers of coniferous scents, a combined finishing option may be offered: where contact with the skin is possible, we make the finishing from deciduous wood, and, for example, we line the space under the shelves with cedar, larch or pine.

To cover a section of the wall near the heater, you must choose a material with high heat capacity and thermal conductivity, ensuring maximum accumulation and uniform heat transfer. The structure of the stone must be uniform so that it does not explode when water gets in. The stones are selected round or oval in shape with a smooth surface for free air circulation, optimal size- from 5 to 21 cm. Another requirement is environmental safety: when heated, they should not emit harmful substances.

Table: properties of bath stones

MineralProperties
Gabbro - diabaseGabbro - diabase is the most affordable and popular option. The stone is dark gray, almost black in color, with low water absorption, excellent heat capacity and very durable. Unfortunately, when heated strongly, it emits an unpleasant odor, and upon contact essential oil forms carbon deposits on the surface.
Soapstone chloriteSoapstone is durable, strong, has excellent heat capacity, and comes in colors from light gray to cherry. In order to prevent dusting, the stones are washed and calcined before the first use. It features a pleasant, light steam with a healing effect: reduces blood pressure, heals the respiratory system and skin. Negative characteristic - high price.
BasaltBasalt is the strongest stone of all volcanic rocks. It has only positive characteristics - it is strong, durable, has a high heat capacity, tolerates temperature changes well, and does not emit harmful substances. Even the price is pleasing with its availability.
JadeJadeite is a semi-precious stone, so you should not be surprised at the high price of this mineral. The color from white through emerald green to black makes it attractive in appearance, and its medicinal properties were appreciated in ancient China. An excellent choice for people who care about their health.
Raspberry quartziteCrimson quartzite, like jadeite, is attractive in appearance with its bright color and has excellent performance qualities - hardness, durability, heat resistance, low water absorption and environmental safety. It tolerates high temperatures well, you can pour water on it without fear of “explosion”. When purchasing, you should avoid split stones, as they will continue to crumble in the future.
White quartzWhite quartz is not very durable and does not tolerate high temperatures well, but due to its spectacular appearance it is one of the most expensive stones: this translucent mineral consists of silicon and oxygen molecules, and when heated, it releases ozone, which makes a steam bath with it especially useful.

The ceiling in the steam room above the heater, just like the wall behind it and the floor around it, requires protection with fireproof material. Above the heater, you can make a section of suspended ceiling from a soapstone slab. Soapstone - universal material for heater stones, floor and ceiling wall cladding. A more budget-friendly option is a metal sheet over the stove, a foundation and wall cladding made of solid, well-fired brick.

Soapstone can be used not only as a material for stones, but also as a decoration for walls and ceilings behind the heater

The floor in the steam room is made of concrete or ceramic tiles, with waterproofing and a drain for draining water. Walking flooring made of hardwood is laid on top.

Finishing materials for washing

A sink with open shower screens requires the installation of channels, drains and moisture-resistant finishing: facing with ceramic tiles or other durable and moisture-resistant material that can withstand elevated temperatures.

If you plan to install individual shower cabins, such finishing is not required; you can line the walls with clapboard, paint them or plaster them with moisture-resistant decorative plaster.

To prevent water from affecting the sink frame, it is finished with tiles.

It is advisable to have heated floors. The tile must have a rough surface that prevents slipping. It is undesirable to make oak flooring in wet rooms, as it is very slippery when wet. A coating made of coniferous wood, especially larch, is welcome, as it is the most resistant to rotting.

The area of ​​the floor near the font, where significant spills of water are possible, is best made of ceramic tiles with a drain.

The ceiling of the washing room will have to be washed periodically; accordingly, the material must withstand processing detergents: larch lining, metal slatted or cassette suspended ceilings.

Restroom

The rest room has no restrictions on decoration, with the exception of warm flooring - it is always pleasant to walk on warm wood with bare feet. The rest of the interior design depends on the taste and requirements of the bathhouse owner.

Photo gallery: options for finishing bathhouse premises

In this steam room, the firewood rack serves as an interesting element of the interior. Soft diffused light and heat from a brick Russian stove will create an unforgettable experience of visiting the bathhouse Protective lampshades made of slats protect lamps from mechanical influences and create directed streams of light Taking bath procedures in a small steam room is very comfortable The interior of the steam room is very decorated with the combined layout of lining made of different types of wood A steam room for a large company should be heated with a high-power heater

Do-it-yourself bathhouse finishing

In order to make the bathhouse beautiful, you need to choose reliable and high-quality finishing materials and install them in accordance with the specifics of the premises described in the previous sections.

Selection of finishing materials

The optimal choice for each bathhouse owner will be one that takes into account the size of the building, personal taste and financial component. In order not to make a mistake when purchasing material, you must first:


Calculation of premises area

To determine the need for materials, it is necessary to know the area of ​​the surface to be finished. All calculations are done in meters.

For the floor and ceiling, multiply the length of the room by its width. To get the area of ​​the walls, calculate the perimeter of the room: add the length and width and multiply by two. We multiply the product by the height of the ceilings. From the result obtained, subtract the area of ​​doors and windows, if any.

In rooms with difficult combined finishing The area of ​​each plot is calculated separately.

How to buy quality materials and prepare them for installation

When choosing a material, you need to pay attention first of all to the quality of the product.


Calculation of material requirements

  1. Find the area of ​​one board. Yes, when standard length 6 m and a thickness of 90 mm, the area of ​​the board will be equal to 6∙0.09=0.54 m2.
  2. Calculate the surface area to be finished. Let's assume that it is necessary to upholster the walls of a room measuring 3 x 6 m with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. The surface area is equal to: (3+6)∙2∙2.5=45 m2.
  3. Calculate the number of boards. To do this, divide the surface area by the area of ​​one board: 45/0.54 = 83.3 boards.

As an example, here is a specification of material for finishing a steam room:


In the same way, the wood requirements for the remaining rooms are calculated.

For calculation paint and varnish materials the surface area should be multiplied by the paint consumption, which is usually given on the packaging in liters per square meter. The product will show how many liters of paint you need to buy.

All goods must be purchased with a margin of 10%, taking into account the allowance for waste and defects in work.

Required Tools

To finish a bathhouse with your own hands you will need:

  1. Hammer.
  2. Screwdriver.
  3. Building level.
  4. Hammer.
  5. Furniture stapler.
  6. Plane.
  7. Hacksaw or jigsaw.
  8. Self-tapping screws, nails or clamps.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing a bath

The work is carried out after laying the electrical wiring and ventilation ducts, starting from the floor. The floor of the steam room is raised 10–15 cm above the level of adjacent rooms. After the clean floor has been laid, they begin finishing the walls. The last thing to do is the ceiling.

  1. Making a frame for insulation. The frame is assembled from 100x40 mm timber, impregnated with fire retardant and fungicide. The timber is attached with self-tapping screws or dowels to the wall at intervals equal to the width of the insulation board minus 5 mm.

    A frame made of wooden beams is mounted on the walls and ceiling

  2. Installation of insulation. Between the frame beams, insulation slabs or mats are laid on heat resistant glue With additional fastening dowels 5–6 pcs. per 1 m 2.
  3. Installation of heat-reflecting material. Aluminum foil or foil fire-resistant film, for example, foil penofol, is secured with staples using a construction stapler to the thermal insulation layer.

    A counter-lattice is installed over the heat-reflecting layer under the finishing coating.

  4. Wall cladding. The lining is attached to the frame in accordance with the selected layout. The nails are driven into the grooves so that they are not visible on the finish. They nail the baseboard.

    To decorate the premises in the bathhouse, you can choose different varieties wood with different shades of color

    Frame installation false ceiling. The frame of the false ceiling is attached to the floor joists or to the walls made of 100x50 timber with a vertical orientation. The distance between the beams should correspond to the width of the insulation slab minus 5 mm for the expansion.

    Construction of the ceiling begins after covering the walls.

    Installation of heat-reflecting material. Foil or foil material is attached in the same way as on the walls.

    Ceiling lining with clapboard. It is carried out similarly to wall upholstery. The section of the ceiling above the stove-heater is protected non-flammable material: stainless steel sheet or plate material. The ceiling plinth is attached.

    A foil vapor barrier is attached to the insulation, and then the clapboard is nailed onto the finished sheathing

Video: interior decoration of the steam room

Having become acquainted with the requirements for bathhouse premises and having studied information about correct execution finishing, you have received the necessary theoretical knowledge. The work does not require any special professional skills and can be done by any homeowner.

The steam room is the most important room in a Russian bathhouse. For its cladding, special materials should be used that can withstand peak temperatures and high constant humidity and at the same time create an atmosphere conducive to physical relaxation and emotional relief of a person.

Steam room cladding - what materials are suitable?

For the interior decoration of the steam room, we need to select materials that are not afraid of moisture and elevated temperatures, look aesthetically pleasing, have a long service life, are environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. In addition, you will have to take care of choosing high-quality thermal insulation for the room.

Such materials quickly deteriorate under the influence of heat, swell when saturated with moisture, and release into the air potentially unsafe for humans chemical compounds. They can be used in bathhouses with less extreme operating conditions, for example, in a rest room or washing room. These compartments do not have excessively high temperatures, and the humidity in them is at a relatively acceptable level. For the steam room it is better to use the following materials:

  • lining made of natural wood;
  • stones or tiles;
  • block house.

If we plan to do all the work on improving the steam room ourselves, it makes sense to opt for lining. The wood from which it is made begins to smell fragrant when heated, saturating the room with a luxurious natural aroma. The lining is non-toxic and has a fairly long service life. She, according to many, has certain medicinal properties and can take away negative energy from a person.

Such products, in addition, give the steam room a noble, natural and truly expensive look. And most importantly, it’s easy to cover wall and ceiling surfaces with clapboard, without involving specialists in this process, whose services can hardly be called cheap.

Which lining to choose - the secrets of different types of wood

The finishing material that interests us should be selected wisely. The lining is made from different types of wood. Not all of them are suitable for decorating a steam room. Pine products cannot be used for these purposes. It releases resinous substances when heated strongly, which contain harmful carcinogens. Pine lining can only be used for finishing ceilings in saunas. And even then, provided that the maximum temperature in them does not exceed 85 ° C. Birch products should also be used with caution. Over time they lose their beautiful view, dry out. The density of birch is low, which means it will absorb water quite actively.

Experts advise choosing lining from:

  • Larches. Formally, this wood is considered coniferous. But it is quite suitable for lining a steam room, as it has high moisture resistance, density, durability and does not release resins in extreme heat.
  • Linden trees. The most popular material, resistant to operational deformations and extreme temperatures. Linden lining looks great, resists moisture well, has calm patterns and a large selection of shades (mostly light). This material is suitable for finishing not only floors and walls, but also floor surfaces in the steam room. Nuance! Linden lining requires mandatory preliminary preparation. Before installation, it is treated with special solutions that prevent the wood from darkening over time.
  • Aspens. Wood has been used for interior cladding of baths since ancient times. Fungi and mold never appear on it. It is not saturated with moisture, practically does not deform, and can be easily processed with your own hands. In Rus', aspen branches and bark were used to treat hundreds of diseases, including fever.
  • Alders. Also a good option for decorating steam rooms. Her performance characteristics worse than aspen or linden, but it smells great and makes the baths beautiful and bright.

Note that the quality of the lining has great value. Poorly hewn and dried products with a large number of knots, cracks and notches on the surface are not suitable for the steam room. Using material with such defects, it is difficult to truly achieve high-quality finishing bath room. Advice. Before installing the lining, it must be kept indoors for about a day. During this time, the material acclimatizes. This will improve its performance.

Setting up a steam room is a fascinating step-by-step process

So, we built a bathhouse, distributed all the rooms in it, and decided on their geometric parameters. Now you can start drawing up a design project for all its branches. We are only interested in the steam room in this article. We will talk about her. Before finishing it, it is advisable to draw up simple diagram premises. It will help us calculate the amount of material needed for cladding. The plan should also indicate the location of the lamps.

After purchasing and preparing materials, we begin the process of arranging the steam room. We will carry out all operations in stages:

  1. 1. We install the electrical wiring (we do it ourselves or we hire a specialist for this important operation if we are not confident in our abilities).
  2. 2. We install sheathing on the ceiling and walls. We attach a vapor barrier membrane to it.
  3. 3. We mark the place for the furnace and the areas for laying the ventilation system.
  4. 4. Punch a hole for the smoke exhaust duct.
  5. 5. We install a heat insulator between the wooden elements with which the sheathing was made. It is recommended to use basalt or stone wool. These products are highly resistant to high humidity and heat.
  6. 6. On top thermal insulation material install another vapor barrier layer. We cover it on top with any reflective product, for example, foil film.
  7. 7. We arrange the area where the stove will be located.
  8. 8. We cover the floor surface (we use boards to create a flooring or pour a concrete screed or install ceramic tiles).
  9. 9. We install the door structure.

Only after all the above operations have been completed do we proceed directly to the sheathing with paired lining. At the final stage of work we install lighting, we install shelves and other accessories that you can’t do without. Next, we will describe in more detail the main stages of finishing the main room in the bathhouse.

Electrical wiring and lighting system – we’ll do everything ourselves

A true home craftsman does not need the services of electricians. We will install the cables ourselves. Here you just need to be careful and take into account the following tips:

  • We use a cable without twisted solder sections and terminal connections. The wire must be solid.
  • We attach the cable directly to the walls (ceiling). A vapor barrier layer and insulating material are laid on top of the wire.
  • After laying the wires, we carefully insulate the places where the lamps will be installed.
  • It is advisable to install the cable in a special box. We fix the wiring with special holders. They are sold in all construction stores.

The system should be thought through to the smallest detail. It is advisable to place lamps around the entire perimeter of the room. But this is not an axiom. Many people prefer to illuminate only certain areas of the steam room - corners, shelves. It is much more important to choose the right lighting fixtures. In the bathhouse it is allowed to use devices that are equipped with a sealed lampshade. They prevent moisture from reaching the light bulb, thereby extending its service life and reducing the likelihood of short circuit.

Sheathing, space for the stove, ventilation - we act sequentially

The wooden lining is attached to the frame. To make it you need wooden blocks. Their thickness is taken to be similar to the thickness of the insulation that we purchased. Between individual bars we maintain an interval of 2–4 cm less than the width of the thermal insulation products. We do not leave a greater distance. The insulation should be laid as tightly as possible. Then we cover the bars with a membrane that protects the sheathing from condensation.

Next point. The skeleton under facing boards mounted on walls can be fixed horizontally or vertically. Lathing under ceiling decoration can be placed crosswise or lengthwise. We determine the specific installation option based on the direction in which we will install the lining.

After creating the sheathing, we select a place for the stove. Experts recommend placing it near external wall. Then we will have a minimum of problems with bringing the chimney to the street. We'll just punch a hole in the wall. And let's pass a pipe through it. If you place the stove in the center of the steam room, you will have to make holes in the attic floor and in the roof. And this extra costs time and effort.

Next, mark the locations for the chimney and ventilation holes. The latter are usually located on the walls 15–20 cm below the ceiling and 30–40 cm above the floor. Important! One outlet (at the floor surface) is always mounted behind the stove or next to it, the top one is on the opposite side, but, as you understand, under the ceiling.

We insulate the room, install a stove and doors - we have to work hard

We begin to install the thermal insulation material from above. We install insulation on the ceiling. Here it is better to play it safe and secure the heat insulator with staples (we drive them with a stapler directly into the sheathing boards). Then we move on to the wall surfaces. We fill them with cotton wool, placing it very tightly between the bars. Carefully examines the result of the work. There should be no gaps between the insulation elements. If any remain, cold bridges will certainly form in the gaps.

We cover the thermal insulation with a vapor barrier membrane. It is optimal to additionally install a layer of foil film on top of it. It will very effectively reflect heat into the steam room, which will reduce the rate of cooling of the room and contribute to its rapid heating. We fix all the described layers with a stapler. We install the foil, membrane and film overlapping (20–25 cm), gluing the contact lines of the individual strips of materials with waterproof tape. If desired, install a counter-lattice on top of the resulting cake. We make it from slats of small thickness.

We equip the hole for the chimney with a heat-resistant gasket, and line the walls near the stove with asbestos sheets. We lay special ceramic slabs (they are thick) or porcelain stoneware on the floor under the heater. We install the stove, and then - door frame. We place the door so that it swings open not into the steam room, but outward. And be sure to seal the gaps between the wall opening and the frame installed structure polyurethane foam.

We arrange the floor base. The easiest way is to fill it concrete screed, and then cover with plank flooring, fiber matting or cork mats. You can make the floor more elegant by installing tiles on it. There is no need to worry about its safety. At the floor base the air temperature is 25–35°. The tiles will not crack from extreme heat. We lay the tiles on a well-leveled surface using glue.

In most cases, floors in steam rooms finished with clapboard are constructed of wood. This process is very simple, and at the same time the room acquires one style. We install the logs, lay boards of the same thickness on them (you should get a continuous coating with a minimum number of cracks) and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Cladding with clapboard - decorating the steam room

Now we have reached the most interesting stage of finishing. We have to make it beautiful and functional with the help of lining. Let's start small. We treat the wood with an oil solution, thereby reducing its hygroscopic index. When the composition is absorbed, we proceed to finishing the ceiling. The products are installed quickly and without any problems, since they are equipped with a tongue and groove. We put the first socket, place the second one next to it and snap the lock. A child can handle it too. made by clamps - special metal holders. They are invisible on the surface to be finished after installation. The tenon of each subsequent product overlaps the holder.

Covering the walls will be more difficult. The operation is more labor-intensive. It is carried out in parallel with the installation of shelves in the steam room. Its algorithm is as follows:

  1. 1. Using a building level, mark the surfaces. Place the required marks on the sheathing with a marker.
  2. 2. Immediately install the frame for the shelves (three, four, two levels - it all depends on the height of the bathhouse). Important point! The lowest shelf should be at a height of 40 cm or more in relation to the floor surface.
  3. 3. Cut out the lining.
  4. 4. We make openings in the walls for ventilation and electrical cables.
  5. 5. We install the lining, starting the operation from the area under the frame for the shelves. Installation of products is carried out in the same way as we sheathed the ceiling (mortise and tenon).
  6. 6. We cover the front and side parts of the shelves.
  7. 7. Assembling the shelves.
  8. 8. We fasten the lining behind the shelf structure and above it.
  9. 9. After this, we finish the remaining parts of the walls.

When all the sheathing is installed, we lay and secure the skirting boards (on the floor and ceiling). In rare cases, such elements are necessary for masking corner connections, if the latter were not fitted too neatly. All we have to do is cover the ventilation openings with doors and connect the lamps. The steam room is ready to receive guests!

The steam room is the most important room of the bathhouse, because there is no bathhouse without a steam room. Traditionally around this small room for convenience, additional spaces are designed, of which there can be quite a lot: sink, shower, relaxation room, swimming pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to decorate the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will not just be the external design of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of problems:

  • walls are being prepared;
  • thermal insulation is applied;
  • thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
  • external finishing is carried out;
  • Design developments are brought to life, giving the interior completeness and aesthetics.

The decoration of the steam room is divided into several important stages and runs sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. Therefore, the first two important steps are:

  • choosing a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless during temperature changes;
  • choice the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths have been built from century to century, and ancestors used them for insulation. natural materials: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and maximally environmentally friendly; they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. To insulate a steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the production of which rock waste is used as a raw material. This material is produced both in rolls and in slabs. It is resistant to microorganisms, environmentally friendly, and durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply irreplaceable for thermal insulation of those areas of the wall and ceiling that are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rots, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to placing a steam room.

Basalt wool – specifications insulation

As for the film, foil films become most effective at 100% humidity and maximum temperatures.



Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Selection of finishing material

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but the most important are the performance qualities:

  • hygiene,
  • resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
  • safety and complete absence of toxins,
  • durability and reliability.

Attention! When producing a steam room, it is prohibited to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various types of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances released by artificial materials can seriously harm your health.

The most suitable materials for finishing a steam room are considered to be lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to construct a Russian-style bathhouse and a Finnish sauna. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwood, since they do not emit resin in the heat.



  1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength; such wood does not rot or crack.
  2. The lining made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give you relaxation.
  3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, and this species is very durable.
  4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Hardwoods dry out quickly and are therefore not threatened by fungus. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots, which can cause harm to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause serious burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, you must definitely check the pine boards for the presence of so-called “resin pockets”.

The finishing of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.



Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

TO installation work They begin after the electrical connection has been made, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.




For finishing you will need the following materials and tools:

  • building level,
  • fastening device,
  • hammer drill,
  • screwdriver,
  • hammer,
  • linings for sheathing,
  • clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, starting work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To prevent heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled using wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently end up at different heights.



Installation of sheathing and insulation

No.IllustrationA comment
1 To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which has been leveled in advance.
2
And only then the timber sheathing is attached. Use well-dried timber 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. It is excellent if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3 First, guides are mounted level on the wall. After this, according to the principle of racks, the outermost bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4 Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand allows for the “movement” of the wood during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is covered with a plinth).
After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach bars of a smaller cross-section to them.

This method of fastening is called floating; it will help avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire sheathing is adjusted to the level and secured, and pads are used if necessary.

For semicircular or patterned surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole beam, but parts of it.
5 Insulation is placed into the constructed frame.

Over time, mineral wool can slip or become deformed, so it is secured with polypropylene twine.

6 Then a second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, and it is fixed with a stapler.
7 To prevent the tree from being subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing an antiseptic for wood

The purchased wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, infectious agents and insects. You shouldn't buy the most cheap composition, you need to focus on quality. When purchasing, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Among the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, it can provide fire-retardant impregnation and protection of affected areas of wood. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for steam rooms and protects wood from rotting.


Neomid 200 – impregnation

100% natural flaxseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the best environmental choice.



Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Thanks to its high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensation, and prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stains, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA – wax

Prices for wood antiseptics

antiseptic for wood protection V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

To work you will need:

  • short-haired brush or brush,
  • White Spirit,
  • warm water,
  • soap.

The surface to be finished must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will adhere more tenaciously.

The timber and lining must be impregnated from all sides, after which the wood must dry (48 hours). Before use, it is recommended to heat linseed oil TM “GreenTherm” in a steam bath to 40°-45° degrees C. You can apply it to the surface with a brush or rag.

Attention! The brush should only be short-haired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a long-haired brush is not suitable for the job.

Excess oil that the wood has not absorbed is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between applying 2-3 layers, technological breaks of at least 12 hours are observed. The ends of boards and timber are treated especially carefully. Drying requires 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20° C and a relative air humidity of no more than 65%. The presence of excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as desired, in accordance with the artistic design concept. But when decorating a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room the temperature is the highest, and at the bottom it is the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is carried out unevenly, the boards will very quickly “lead” to high humidity. The logical choice is to place the boards horizontally.

If the lining is fastened horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along its entire length, and bending deformation does not occur. Of course, different finishing elements, depending on their location, will be completely different conditions, but this will not affect the overall appearance of the cladding at all.

Fastening the lining

Before starting work, you need to take measurements of the steam room and cut the lining to the required height.

The choice of fastening type depends on the room temperature.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps rather than nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so they can cause burns. The clamps are completely invisible, and the lining secured by them can be dismantled and installed several times.

The steam room is lined from the stove and goes around the perimeter of the room. The correct installation direction is from top to bottom.

The board is attached with the groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The lining boards are assembled “groove into tenon”, like a construction set.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will flow freely without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from rotting. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws; in this case, they can be easily dismantled and replaced without dismantling the entire sheathing structure. The trim is nailed onto the door opening using bars.

Attention! Between the lining and the vapor barrier foil must be left ventilation gap, otherwise the tree will begin to rot reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video – Finishing the bath

Choosing tile or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, finishing with tiles made of natural stone: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials can withstand the highest temperatures and have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for the floor and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic finishing is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made from clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors or fumes at all. To decorate the steam room, choose products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles, it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video – Finishing the inside of the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters you need to prepare:

  • level and tape measure,
  • 6 square meters of ceramic or stone tiles,
  • three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
  • one package of Terracotta grout,
  • drill for stirring with attachment,
  • construction gun,
  • hammer,
  • putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant adhesive from the Terracotta company is used in areas where the temperature will not exceed 400° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic; it is used in places where heating is up to 1100° C.

First, the base is prepared. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is applied, then a mesh is applied, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

Done on the floor cement strainer, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and drainage must be organized. Twine or fishing line is stretched along the perimeter of the floor or wall, so you can check the correct installation.

Before laying begins, the ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

When producing a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed thoroughly, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from bottom to top, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely cut drywall instead of crosses. When installing drain holes on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

Floor tiles are installed using glue with sand; glue without sand may shrink. All other rows are placed according to the level with the already created slope.




Mortar is applied to the back of each tile so that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed against the floor. It is then pressed down with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant Terracotta grout is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is filled with water and mixed with a mixer. After this, the solution can be poured into the gun tube, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! The grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only then easily remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work has been completed, the first fire can be carried out.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room