Log cabin caulking: methods - traditional and modern, technology of work, subtleties. Do-it-yourself caulking of wooden houses - technology, tricks and estimates of work

Do-it-yourself caulk log house with jute

Caulker wooden house is the final stage in the construction of a wooden building, and it is simply impossible to do without it.

Wooden houses have been very popular throughout the ages. Long time wood remained one of the most popular materials underlying low-rise construction. Today, buildings made of timber have a more outlandish than traditional appearance. Due to its naturalness and naturalness, the use of wood gives a person many advantages. However, the creation of such a building is a rather complicated process, which has many nuances.

Wooden houses may have various forms and design, which involves carrying out a variety of works. At the same time, no matter what method of building a building and the material would not be used, caulking is always necessary condition requiring full compliance. It is no secret to anyone that any building undergoes a shrinkage process after construction. Brick, concrete and, especially, wood can be subjected to serious deformation during operation. This is due various factors, ranging from the specifics of the soil and ending with climatic influences.

In the situation with a bar, one criterion becomes more and we are talking not at all about using the house, but rather about drying out the wood. No matter how dried and whole the material would be, over the course of 5-6 years after being at the heart of the structure, it necessarily undergoes various changes. Under the combined influence of internal and external factors it is able not only to change its shape, but also to significantly deform. As a result, dense and monolithic house becomes less warm, and its surface is covered with a web of cracks.

This state of affairs requires immediate correction, since ignoring it can lead to much more serious consequences in the form of material decay and violation of the integrity of the building. However, timely assistance can once and for all resolve this issue and prevent the destruction of the building.

It consists in carrying out a caulk aimed at correcting the situation and preventing the most unfortunate development of events. Its implementation has many features and can be performed different ways. However, its purpose remains unchanged and consists in filling the gaps formed as a result of shrinkage of the house with special materials. In doing so, they must meet the following requirements:

• have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• have a plastic structure;
• do not succumb to temperature effects;
• equally well tolerate moisture and dryness;
• not succumb to rotting or insect attack;
• be natural and natural.

Only a clear compliance with these criteria will make it possible to obtain a monolithic surface that can stand for many more years. In addition, all these qualities significantly affect the preservation of heat, as a result of which it will become warm and cozy inside the house.

Sealing gaps in a log house

Caulker wooden houses allows you to eliminate not only all visible surface defects, but also affect its characteristics. So, filling the space between the logs significantly increases the thermal insulation of the building and makes it possible to eliminate drafts. The duration of shrinkage depends on many factors and in some cases can reach 7-10 years.

At the same time, proper and high-quality work can make a warm and comfortable room even from an old wooden house. However, not every building material is suitable for caulking, because in addition to all the above qualities, it must also have a specific structure, which can be called hygroscopic. To date, only a few materials meet all the necessary requirements, the list of which is as follows:

• sphagnum moss;
• linen tow;
• hemp hemp;
• jute;
• linen felt.

These funds have necessary qualities, and they may well be used for processing a wooden house. However, it should be remembered that the total cost of caulking can vary significantly when using one or another material, since they all have a different price. In addition, even the same product may differ in its structure, increasing the consumption of material or increasing the time of work.

This state of affairs is due to the fact that natural materials, like moss or tow, do not always have an identical structure and properties, since their characteristics are most dependent on the qualities of the plant. Therefore, at the time of purchase, insulating agents and their characteristics should be carefully checked. This is the only way to be sure of getting a positive result and a full-fledged caulking of the building, which will increase its quality.

Necessary tools and work process

As mentioned above, caulking is a rather laborious, responsible and painstaking process that can take a lot of time. Based on this, best solution will invite specialists who will qualitatively and accurately perform all the work. In addition, this solution will make it possible to reduce the overall construction time and guarantee an optimal result. However, the price of such work can be quite high, which is not always appropriate.

An alternative to calling specialists is the do-it-yourself caulking of a wooden house, which allows not only to make it as comfortable as possible, but also to save a significant part of the materials. However, it should be remembered that this process is of particular importance and is associated with serious responsibility, since the durability of the building and its insulating characteristics will depend to the greatest extent on its results.

• caulk;
• mallet;
• wooden spatula.

Caulking is rightfully considered the main of the listed tools - a tool made in the form of a spatula, pointed at the edges. Its use makes it possible to evenly and efficiently distribute any kind of insulating material, as well as fill cracks and other holes with it. In turn, the rest of the tools are designed to ensure its maximum fixation in those places where the caulk is not able to help.

Caulking a house from a log house involves several stages of work. The first of them is carried out at the time of construction of the structure, the second - after 1-2 years, and the final one - only after 6-7 years. At the same time, during construction, the insulation is laid directly at the junctions of the logs and at their joints, and the second and third treatments involve filling the cracks formed as a result of shrinkage of the house.

As a rule, surface caulking is carried out from top to bottom by uniform distribution insulation for all cracks and holes. A feature of this process is the need for a uniform distribution of material around the entire perimeter of the building, since focusing on one wall can lead to the distortion of the entire building. Small gaps are filled with individual threads of tow or moss, and larger holes are best covered with jute thread, which has a denser structure. Full processing of all problem areas will make it possible not only to increase the service life of a wooden house, but also to make it as comfortable and warm as possible.

Experts say that wooden houses give their owners good health and an incredible feeling of comfort and harmony. You can’t argue with this, because wood is a natural environmentally friendly material. The range of materials for the construction of a wooden house today is very diverse.

If you nevertheless made your choice in favor of building from profiled timber or logs, then you need round log caulking, and it will also be useful to know some of the nuances regarding caulking a house from timber.

Often, when drawing up estimates and a work plan, specialists do not take into account caulks and pigtails log house which is an absolute demonstration of incompetence. After all true professional who understands all the features of such buildings, will definitely advise you not to miss this milestone. Even if later you plan to insulate and perform external and interior decoration, no need to save on caulking at home. Beam - relatively woody inexpensive material, which in last years became very popular in the construction of houses and cottages. It is important to know that when the beam dries up, it inevitably decreases in size, which entails the formation of cracks. Such gaps over time lead to the fact that the house loses its thermal insulation properties. The answer of professionals is this: in order to avoid rot, mold and drafts, it is necessary to caulk the house at least three times and be sure to insulate it.

Modern technologies for the production of profiled timber, indeed, allow us to believe that in the age of new technologies there is no need to caulk a house. According to the sellers, such a beam does not dry out, because its parts fit very tightly to each other. However, it must be remembered that the beam gives the final shrinkage only a few years after construction under the weight of the entire structure. Secondly, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the material as a whole, where the forest grew, how it was stored. Even if during and after construction are not discovered big gaps, then the gaps that are on both sides of the house are able to accumulate moisture. Over time, this can lead to mold and rot. Caulking is necessary in order to maintain thermal insulation properties. With the help of a heater, you can get rid of cracks, which subsequently will not only cause discomfort, but also create other serious problems.

Caulking technology at home from a bar

Caulking should always be carried out starting from the top, filling one crown completely from the outside and then inside. The ideal option There will be a working team of four people. After the beam is correctly laid and fixed, it is necessary to lay a heater with a layer of 5 mm or more in the interventional space, and jute between the spike and the groove. The laying technology depends on the location of the beam as a whole: if the beam has the shape of a “crescent”, then in this situation the interventional space must be filled with insulation with edges of 4-5 cm. part, and caulk the cracks on the sides after. Jute should be slightly tucked under the bottom and pushed into the slot with a wooden or rubber mallet. If the space in the slots is too narrow, a narrow rope should be made from the jute fiber and driven into the slot.

There is another caulking technology - "stretched". It is necessary to take the fibers of jute and lay them across the beam, slightly pushing inward with a hammer. The remaining ends of 5-6 cm should be left. Next, you need to roll the jute into a ball and push it into the slot.

Another technology is called "to set". It is necessary to take long fibers of jute and roll into a ball. After that, typing loops, fill the gaps.

Materials for caulking timber

Various materials with which people have caulked their homes for many centuries have come down to our time. Any material that is suitable for caulking a house must meet the following requirements:

• Be resistant to temperature changes
• Waterproof and breathable
• Long service life (at least 20 years)
• Have low thermal conductivity
• Have the same properties as wood material
• Have hygroscopic properties

The first place among the materials used for caulking wooden houses is occupied by moss. It is hygroscopic - when it needs to absorb moisture, when not - it gives it away. Moss is an eco-friendly natural material, it can serve for many decades. It should also be noted that moss has medicinal properties, is a natural antiseptic and antibiotic. Moss prevents the formation of bacteria and mold.

The only negative characteristic of moss house caulking is the complexity of the process itself. For such work, it is worth hiring specialists.
Linen tow is most often used in regions where there is no marshland and there is no way to collect moss. Tow remains from the production of ropes and ropes, also has antiseptic and antibacterial properties, but to a lesser extent. A significant disadvantage of caulking with tow is that caulking will have to be carried out several times.

Hemp hemp is similar in properties to tow. Hemp contains coarser fibers, is susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. This material is often used in regions with high humidity. Hemp is not afraid of moisture, so it does not allow mold and rot to accumulate.

Jute is a foreign material. Most often it is delivered from China, India, North African countries with a tropical climate. Jute is a shoot of a plant of the Malvaceae family, has high strength, is not subject to mold, rotting. The main advantage is its hygroscopicity. Jute contains as much lignin as wood. The undoubted advantage of using jute is its uniformity when laying.

In some cases, felt insulation is used for caulking houses from timber:

• The jute seal contains 90% jute and 10% linen.
• Linen felt is made from high-strength linen.
• Flax-jute felt consists of jute and flax in equal proportions.

Of all the materials listed above, jute occupies a leading position. Uniform laying and similarity with wood are the two main trump cards when choosing a material. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the more flax is contained in the felt material, the lower its quality for caulking.

When to caulk a house from a bar

According to experts, the main shrinkage of a house made of timber occurs in the first 1.5-2 years. Every year it is less and less, and after 5-6 years it stops completely. The first caulk is carried out immediately after the construction of the house: first of all, a heater is laid, and then the material chosen for the caulk is laid in the cracks of the house. The second caulking should be done 1.5-2 years after completion construction works. By this time, the house will already give a certain shrinkage, so you can caulk in a dense layer. The third caulking can be done 5-6 years after construction. This time it is necessary to fill all the cracks and gaps very tightly. In case you intend to upholster your house with siding or other material, the third time you can not caulk the house.

There are a lot of types of materials involved in caulking a wooden house. Choose the right one and make quality work- the owner's task of paramount importance. The role of caulking can hardly be overestimated - the heat loss of an object during operation and often the appearance and durability of wood depend on it. Details in solving the issue - how to caulk wooden house, including profiled timber, are described below.

Right stuff

The building materials market for such purposes is represented by the following:

1. Tape products - jute, lnovatin. Dense structures that do not interact with moisture are a guarantee of protection against rot and mold in interventional seams, and as a result, the safety of wood.
2. Clubbing and thread - tow, linen rope. Convenient to install. The rope acts as an additional decor in case of resolving the issue - how to caulk log house.
3. Synthetic materials - sealants. They can be independent caulks or in addition to a fiber product. When buying, the owner should be guided by the surface - the inner one is sealed with acrylic options, the outer one - with silicone ones.
4. Styrenes. As a rule, there is no ready-made foam for sealing gaps. The strips are cut in a handicraft way and fit into the slots.

There they take desired shape thereby ensuring sealing. Their actions will give odds to mounting foam.

Disadvantages are present only in tow - birds love it very much and use it for the benefit of their own construction. Therefore, home-grown craftsmen should either twist the thread into a tight rope, or abandon this type of caulking altogether. Otherwise, the result of "monkey labor" will arise even before the housewarming.

The right period for caulking

It is impossible to solve the question - how to properly caulk a wooden house without taking into account the season, weather conditions, the period of shrinkage and the type of material from which the object is built. So:

1. Immediately after erection, you can make a trial caulk, for visible distortions of the structure. The next stage should come no earlier than six months of exposure, depending on soil changes. The peak of the shrinkage amplitude occurs after a year, so the main caulking should be done at this time.
2. Do not work in extremely cold or hot weather. The optimum temperature is + 10-15⁰. Neither rain nor wind is allowed. The first will drive moisture into the seams, which is completely unacceptable, the second will unravel all the material. The best time for work - dry early autumn. In winter, the process is not carried out due to slight shrinkage - the humidity becomes less and it is impossible to understand whether the house has received changes.
3. The raw material of construction is also important - a beam or a whip. The question - how to caulk a house from a log, is different from the decision on a bar in some nuances, which will be described below.

Proper work for a lasting result cannot be without knowledge and appropriate equipment. It is important to acquire a professional tool - you will need it more than once, so it will pay for itself with interest.

Proper caulking at home

The methods of caulking in stretching and in a set are described below. Their difference is not only in different styling, but seasonality of use.

The first is used at the peak of shrinkage in a year, the second in the subsequent preventive times. So, how to caulk a wooden house:

• The process starts from the corners. The ends of the material should fall on the long seams of the log house. The edge of the tape or tourniquet is pushed into the gap and with the blows of a mallet, the caulk is carefully clogged with a metal blade.
• The selected tape material is measured in accordance with the length of the crown - the corners are laid first, so the tape is stretched along the whip. They act in the same way - one side is laid in a seam, the rest is rolled up and reported into the gap.
• The kit method is based on laying rolled loops by hand - the material is rolled into a ball, from which fibers are formed. They provide additional sealing to the first layer.

In addition, they can correct distortions by placing different amount to the right places. You can not overdo it - you can break the geometry or remove the wood from your site.

• Deciding how to properly caulk a log house can be done with caulk and/or linen rope. It will be not only reliable, but also aesthetically pleasing. First, the corners are passed with a sealant, and, without waiting for it to dry, the rope is immediately laid.

You also need to act on the surface of the walls. By carefully hammering the rope into the grooves, you can achieve gluing of both materials, and you are guaranteed to get a quality seal.

This method can be used 2-3 years after the operation of the house. Up to this point, you need to use a different method, otherwise the shrinkage will simply squeeze out the rope.

• Caulking with foam plastic scraps is the lightest. You can use an ordinary narrow construction spatula. Styrene is cut into strips of 1.5 cm and hammered into the seams.

The disadvantage of the method is that it is unlikely that it will be possible to find thick slabs of cellular material long enough for continuous caulking. Therefore, when deciding how to caulk a wooden house with the help of artisanal means, it is necessary to take into account possible flaws in the joints of the pieces. It is recommended to go over the seams before inserting the styrene sealant.

In order for a wooden object to gain reliability in terms of using any material preferred by the owner, the product should be purchased in specialized outlets. For gaps, there important condition before installing the seal - be treated for biological deterioration, rot and mold.

Caulking a house is a construction operation, the purpose of which is to close the gaps between the timber or logs with natural fibrous material to prevent the penetration of cold air from the street into the dwelling. The second property of caulking is decorative. Smooth long rollers between logs, twisted from linen or jute and varnished, look original and give the structure a natural look. natural look, referring us to technologies developed during the time of wooden architecture. But the decorative component of caulking is important only for log cabins, houses assembled from logs, which are not finished outside. For buildings made of timber, the slots only pierce with tow, since the walls are almost always lined with finishing material.

The owners may object, why is it necessary to caulk if the building will be finished off? This can be answered as follows: even despite the external finish, heat loss through the gaps between the beams will be the same. In addition, wood-boring insects that love to live in such recesses can settle in them. Therefore, it is better not to take risks, but to make a caulk at home from the outside and from the inside. As a last resort, under finishing of a crack it is necessary to foam at least.

To work, you must have special tool, caulk-chisel. They are sold in hardware stores. The width of the working part is from 1 to 5 cm. It is more convenient to caulk with a tool with a narrow blade internal corners log house. Tow is slaughtered with a small sledgehammer, weighing 1 kg. A heavier tool, weighing 1.5 kg, is used in cases where the shrinkage of the house has ended and the gaps between the logs are minimal. Accordingly, when working with a weighted sledgehammer, you get tired faster. By the way, almost all professional caulkers suffer from chronic pain in their wrist joints.

For caulking cracks, natural fibrous material is used - flax or jute. Jute fiber is more expensive, denser, birds do not like to pull it out. But if the gap between the timber is minimal, the jute will have to be hammered with great effort.

Linen fiber is cheaper, less dense. Easily fits into the smallest gap. If the distance between the timber is wide, more flax is consumed than jute. Birds are very fond of pulling it out for their nest-building purposes. The quality of flax fiber is easy to determine: the less inclusions of straw, the better it is.

At the stage of building a house, primary laying is carried out interventional insulation. In ancient times, moss was used for these purposes. It was collected in the forest, dried and laid between logs. Today in this painstaking work no need: linen or jute fiber, collected in a tape of various widths, is produced in factories and then sold in stores.

The wider the tape, the cheaper the same volume of fiber. Thrifty hosts buy a bale of the widest tape and then cut it to the size of a log or beam. This type of insulation is the most economical. Of course, it also has its downsides. Natural fiber is very difficult to cut. Craftsmen for these purposes adapted an ordinary braid, which must be sharpened after each cut. Therefore, sometimes it makes more sense to buy a tape of the desired width. You will spend a little more money, but you will save time and nerves, which are so necessary when building a log house.

Mezhventsovy insulation is placed between logs or timber. To prevent it from being blown away by the wind, it is attached to a tree with construction stapler. The tape is laid with a small margin, so after its walls they look untidy, rags of insulation stick out everywhere.

After the construction, the house is left to shrink. During this time, the tree dries, decreasing in size. between the logs close or vice versa, increase. This happens when the beam or logs are uneven. In any case, there are gaps through which the inside of the building gets cold air. To minimize losses at buildings, it is necessary to caulk them.

Offers for caulking wooden houses are widely represented on the construction services market. Type in the search box the word "caulk" and you will see a large selection of such works. This service is expensive, in 2017 prices for 1 meter of caulking start at 100 rubles. If you have a log house measuring 8 by 8 m and a height of 2.5 m, then you will spend about 50,000 rubles only on a caulk outside. And the same inside. This work is simple, but rather monotonous. If the construction budget allows, it is better to hire professional caulkers. They will do their job quickly and efficiently. If there is no money for a caulk, but you still hold on, you can perform this construction operation yourself.

The approach to caulking a house from a bar for finishing and a log house from a log is a little different. The log caulk is completely caulked, even if there are no cracks. Here, the caulk also has a decorative component - an even roller is made along the perimeter of the building between all the crowns of jute or flax. In a log house, if there are no gaps between the crowns, it is not necessary to hammer in the caulk. Caulk only those places through which air can enter. In addition, tow is hammered flush with the wall, decorative roller do not, as the surface will be finished. This version of caulking is performed much faster.

Caulking at home with your own hands

Approximately six months after the construction of the house, they begin to make caulking from pushing old tow inside the gap. This is the most simple work. Take a chisel and, starting from the very lower crown, break through the tow that has come out between the timber. According to the rules, you need to caulk a log house along the perimeter of the house, starting from the bottom of the building. There were cases when inexperienced builders first caulked one wall, then another. As a result, the house skewed, I had to take out the tow and redo all the work again.

Then we take the tow and start punching it. We used linen insulation, tape, 15 cm wide. This is the most common size, since you can roll the tow of this width 2 times. We tear off a piece of about 2 m and fill the edge between the timber, hammering it inward with a chisel to a depth of 1-2 cm so that it does not pop out. If the gap is so small and you understand that cold air will not pass through it, there is no need to caulk the timber.

Then we take the tape by the bottom edge, fold it in half and again hammer it with a chisel along the entire length. It is not necessary to penetrate deeply, it is enough that the insulation does not fall out of the gap.

Next, fold the tow again and also hammer it between the timber. Here it is necessary to increase the force of impact with a sledgehammer in order to push the tow inside.

Now you need to hammer it flush with the wall along the entire length of the tape with short elastic blows.

The fibrous material located between the timber must be elastic and not be pressed through by pressing a finger. If the width is quite large and the tow is easily crumpled, you need to add more ribbons of the same length and repeat the whole operation again. Over time, you will understand how much tow is needed to caulk the gap different sizes. Then again we tear off another 2 meters of tow and break through the gaps further, and so on around the entire perimeter of the house.

Vertical seams between the timber are clogged in the same way. Only the tow needs to be folded several times more. The result should be an elastic roller, clogged flush with the wall.

Corners also break through such a system. In some cases, a chisel with a narrow blade may be needed. If you didn't buy one, a regular impact screwdriver might work.

Thus, meter by meter, it is necessary to go through all the crowns along the perimeter of the building. In the end, so that the wind and birds do not ruffle and take out the tow from the cracks, it can be treated with outdoor varnish. For log cabins, yacht varnish is usually used, for finishing - the cheapest. The varnish is applied to the seam with a brush.

When it dries, the tow will harden and neither the wind nor the birds will be able to pull it out. In some cases, after about six months or a year, after the final shrinkage of the structure, repeated caulking is carried out. Before this, an audit of the cracks is carried out to make sure that this construction operation is necessary.

Caulking is a tedious and time-consuming job. Especially when it is necessary to break through the upper crowns. I have to tinker scaffolding or use the ladder, climbing up and down it countless times, to move it further.

It is most convenient to caulk with your own hands in winter period when other things do not allow to perform cold weather. Dress warmly, brush the snow off the wall, and swing the sledgehammer until it gets dark. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

VIDEO

From time immemorial, a wooden frame has served people as a warm, reliable home. And now many people prefer wood to brick and foam blocks. Wood is a living natural material. It breathes, changes shape, sometimes acts up. Therefore, it is important to know the little secrets of construction and follow the advice. experienced craftsmen. Experts know how to properly caulk a house from a bar in order to enjoy comfort in any weather. Having decided how and with what to caulk a house from a bar, you can get to work.

When purchasing a profiled beam, a person often hears that he does not need additional insulation. The beam is fitted closely to each other. A 5 mm thick insulation has already been laid between the crowns, it will protect against drafts.

In fact, the house is still shrinking a little under its own weight. Even industrially dried profiled lumber is affected by the weather. It can both gain moisture and dry out. Insignificantly, but this is enough for cracks, crevices and cold bridges to appear between the crowns. Following these, drafts will appear, moisture will penetrate into the walls. Thermal insulation also needs protection. Open, it can wrinkle, get wet and rot.

If a building material became a solid bar or log with natural humidity, then deformation during drying is inevitable.

Knowing how and how to caulk a house from a bar, you can avoid:

• drafts;
• moisture penetration and damage to wood and thermal insulation inside the wall;
• wall icing;
• heat loss.

After a well-made caulk, the log house will serve as a reliable refuge from the cold and will not require repairs for a long time.

Materials for caulking

When choosing how to caulk a house from a bar, you need to consider the basic requirements:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• immunity to temperature fluctuations;
• hygroscopicity;
• air tightness;
• wind resistance;
• durability (service life of 20 years);
• high antiseptic properties so that harmful insects, mold or fungus do not settle inside;
• ecological purity.

Indeed, since the house is built of wood, natural materials with similar properties should be used as interventional insulation.

These include:

• hemp hemp;
• wool;
• felt;
• other analogues.

Knowledgeable people usually use only a few of them in their work.

Moss

Moss is red and white. One of the most popular materials, known since ancient times.

Known today for its merits:

1. It is an environmentally friendly natural material.
2. It literally grows under your feet. The main thing is to be able to prepare.
3. It does not contain pests. On the contrary, the appearance and development of the fungus is excluded.
4. Resistant to temperature changes.
5. Absorbs excess moisture.
6. Has healing properties.
7. Its service life is almost infinite.

It is difficult to find it on sale, but you can assemble it yourself. Do it late autumn when the bulk of insects and snails have already gone into hibernation.

Natural moss requires serious processing. The earth and garbage are removed from it, then dried. Don't dry it too hard. From this, it will become fragile and will no longer be able to serve as a good insulation.

If you managed to buy ready-made moss, you need to soak it before starting work.

However, caulking with moss without the skill is very difficult.
If the caulking is not done well enough, the already laid moss is pulled out by the birds. For protection from above, they are stuffed with flashings or a decorative cord.

Tow

Tow is similar in thermal insulation properties with moss and is also loved by birds. It is also made from waste from the production of flax fibers. Sometimes hemp and jute are used.

Depending on the feedstock, there are bale and tape tow. The first consists of short fibers and is inconvenient for caulking. The second is considered almost ideal and is often used. But it contains a fire, it falls out, and the house has to be isolated again.

The big disadvantage of tow is the ability to accumulate moisture, which then begins to undermine the wood. To level this quality, the tow is impregnated with resins. Previously, it was wood resins, now petroleum products are increasingly common. This makes it impossible to call tow an environmentally friendly material.

Jute

Jute is a foreign material. It is produced in India, China and Egypt from a plant of the Malvaceae family. It compares favorably in that it does not attract the attention of birds. In addition, it is strong, durable, hygroscopic and completely similar in properties to the wood of the house.

Jute comes in the form of ropes, fibers and ribbons. Ribbons are most suitable for caulking the first and second stages. They are soft and pliable. Fibers and ropes are used in the third place.

Lnovatin

Lnovatin is made from flax, produced in the form of a canvas, immediately ready for use.
It retains heat better than others, does not rot and does not absorb water.

New types and forms of insulation appear regularly.

How to caulk a timber house

Caulking is carried out in three stages.

The first time the house was just built. Insulation is placed between the crowns and laid in the cracks.

The second time they caulk an already settled and settled house. This happens about a year and a half after construction. The insulation is pushed in tightly, leaving no space.

The third caulk should be done after 5-6 years, when the shrinkage of the house has almost stopped. If before that it was not additionally insulated from the outside and not covered with a finish.

There are several options for how to caulk log house.

Stretched caulk, set

The stretching method is used for narrow gaps and cracks in the timber.

They use a special tool, which is called a caulk, and a mallet.

They start the process from the upper crowns, move down, go through one seam outside and inside. So that the house does not warp, it is better to work on all four walls at the same time.

First, the insulation is laid by hand, then pushed deeper with a caulk, at the end they hit it with a mallet to seal the insulation. Continue until the scapula enters the gap less than one and a half centimeters.

Sometimes a wide insulation tape is placed between the bars during the installation of the walls, so that it hangs on two sides. And then they push her inside.

After completion of the work, the height of the log house will increase by a dozen centimeters.

If the gaps have formed more than two centimeters, choose the "set-up" method.
The insulation tapes are cut off and twisted into bundles, the bundle is folded into loops, then pushed deep into the gap. Thus, all free space is filled. The final tape is applied from above and compacted with a triangular spatula.

How to caulk corners

To keep the house from getting cold, it is necessary to insulate the corners. They do it from the inside.
Take a crooked caulk, a long strand of insulation. Apply a strand to the seam, evenly distribute and push inward.

It is possible to insulate a house with your own hands, the main thing is to be patient.