How to glue paper to plastic. What glue to glue cardboard to cardboard and other materials

Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture, we have to glue various materials together. In the carpentry and furniture business, the skills of the master in this type of work play a big role.

The quality of bonding depends primarily on the pre-treatment of the surfaces to be bonded. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, residues of old glue or paint, the surface must be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or a file.

When gluing metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, you must first degrease them by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in a solution of ammonia, gasoline, acetone, a solution of baking soda.

When gluing various materials, you need to follow a few rules: apply glue to the surface only in a thin layer, but so that there are no missed places. The glue must be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, and so on) and of a homogeneous consistency, that is, it must not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in any way contribute to a stronger bonding. Some types of adhesives, according to the instructions, should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the materials to be glued. Then the bonding strength will increase.

As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in heat not lower than 18 °C. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other with a press, oppression or vice.

When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts to be glued be the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. Dry wood we would recommend you glue with animal and synthetic adhesives. Animal glues include bone and casein. We note right away that the preparation of bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than offset by its advantages. It is beneficial to use when a large amount of work is being done. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which distinguishes it favorably from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 sq. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, dry wood glue tiles can be stored for an unlimited time, they practically do not deteriorate.

Wood glue should be prepared in a special glue pot. The glue cooker consists of two tin vessels, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and glue is poured into the second (smaller) and placed in the first. Glue cooker can be successfully replaced with ordinary tin cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) prevents the glue from burning and can keep heat for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and fill it with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then set to boil. For cooking liquid glue for 4 weight parts of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be heated, stirring, so that the whole mass is obtained without clots and grains. Do not bring the adhesive to a boil, as this may reduce its tack and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick in it.

The glue is ready if it flows slowly from the stick, in a thick, even stream. If the glue is too thick during cooking, you can dilute it with hot water. When working, hot glue is used, if it has cooled slightly, it can be heated in a water bath. Do not immediately brew a large amount of glue. Brew as much as you need to do the job; reheating already hardened glue worsens its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also give it refractory properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and boil it in a glue pot until a thick composition is obtained, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the adhesiveness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at the rate of 25:2.

When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. Glue powder should be poured into water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. Ready mix at first it will be thick, and it is set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should flow off the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin, shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, because at temperatures above 40 ° C, casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare glue powder at home, provided necessary components. The glue contains 7 weight parts of dry casein powder and 1 weight part of borax (sodium boric acid).

To prepare glue from such a powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour casein cold water in a ratio of 1:1 and soak for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and pour the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but the glue dries completely only after 12 hours. The big advantage of casein glue is that it can glue wood together. high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses.

Sometimes it is required to stick plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film on a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood with tile wood glue, but it forms a noticeable dark-colored seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then put a plywood sheet on it and press it firmly on top with a yoke. The pressure should be about 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.

To glue plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, Elastosila-2. Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of wood or plastic.

Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back of the plastic until the plastic becomes slightly rough. Be especially careful with corners and edges. Then wipe the treated plastic surface with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply glue in a thin layer on both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly against the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the entire glued surface to be at least 4-5 kg per 1 sq. . see Oppression leave for half an hour. Such gluings finally harden within a day.

For gluing fabric, leather, leather substitutes to a wooden base, use glues: "Oak", "Unicum", BF-6, "Polyvinyl acetate".

Also at home, with the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. To do this, you will need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix the dry ingredients, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a glue cooker. In the process of preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that lumps do not form. As soon as the glue begins to thicken it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive composition is homogeneous. This glue is used only when hot. Leathers and leatherettes (without a fabric base), degrease synthetic films with gasoline with acetone. Fabrics do not need pre-treatment before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue, with yourself and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.

It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and Polyvinyl acetate glues, since BF-6 glue can shine through the front surface and stain the fabrics yellowish. Glue "Polyvinyl acetate" collapses under the influence of water.

It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Pateks, Elastosila-2. If you need to glue small metal objects (hooks, shelves) to a wooden surface, we would not recommend using the first three brands of adhesives mentioned. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the influence of loads, a metal object will move out of a wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface with a file to make it rough, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded, clamp the parts in a vise and leave for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.

For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same adhesives - Elastosila-2 glue.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave it for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone, and connect them. Clamp the glued parts for 4-5 hours in a vise. Finally, the glue will harden in 10-12 hours.

Glass is most often glued together with such adhesives as "Polyvinyl acetate", "Mars", "Supercement", BF-2, "Pateks", "Unicum". These adhesives form almost colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply the second layer and after 2-3 minutes connect the parts to be glued. Details within 20-30 minutes should be tightly pressed against each other. The glue completely hardens only after a day.

To glue glass and metal together, take Adhesive Sealant, Elastosila-2, Unicum. Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.

You can glue glass to a tree, as well as stick fabric or cardboard on it with PVA, PVA-A, "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surfaces with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.

At home, glue BF-2 or "Epoxy" is used for bonding metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply glue on the surface in a thin layer and leave it for an hour. Then place the blanks smeared with glue in an oven heated to 50-60 ° C and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it starts to dry (stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vise and dry in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. When cold drying
completely hardens only after 2-3 days.

Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components resin and hardener.

When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; if the hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab dipped in acetone, and then wash your hands running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl of hot water, but not higher than 30°C. Mix warm resin with a hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as you would others.

Also read in this section:

Warming
All about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here is how to make the attic warm, what materials to use. All about the methods and technologies of warming houses, cottages, basements. You will be able to calculate the consumption of material.

Materials for insulation
How to choose the right materials for thermal insulation works in what proportions to cook cement mortar for walls, how to insulate a country house. Recommendations will help you choose materials that have fire-resistant and low heat-conducting properties.

Useful repair tips
Tips for housewives on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, caring for furniture. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly eliminate blockages in the kitchen or restore chipped enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.

so that firmly, the paper does not wrinkle or deteriorate.
I tried PVA - more reliable with snot.
Super glue doesn't work. There is some component that spoils the paper.
What other suggestions?

unfamiliar words, sorry .. in free sale?
Are they sold in Argument?

What about stationery? The usual one, which one did you use as a child?

Yes, silica.
Or over there, in the Argument they sell a type of lipstick, maybe they just stick on

Like lipstick - is it a glue stick?
Will they take it?
I was just struck by the effect of PVA .. I tried it - this bitch stained the paper + when it dried, the paper flew off almost by itself

>Will they take it?
I don’t know, I always glued it with superglue when it was necessary.

no, about the quality of superglue - so he glues his fingers at least - he doesn’t care. But he has some kind of crap there, and when you glue the paper, it turns out to be one continuous greasy spot.

any glue will impregnate the paper for you. Deal with it. For strong gluing to plastic (excluding polyethylene, polypropylene and Teflon), Moment glue, nitrocellulose glue, epoxy glue are suitable.

sand the plastic before applying the glue, should help

how about this option:
glue a layer of paper on the plastic with superglue - the effect of the fir spot will be reflected on the layer + the surface will change. And then with ordinary glue (the same PVA) glue what you need. So will it roll?

listen, I need to stick the plastic to the shiny paper here. Can you help?

How about double-sided adhesive tape or glue for gluing ceilings (it is transparent, glues any materials, I just forgot the name), the last one I glued the demobilization form, it worked out with a bang.

Stick paper tape on the plastic. and paper to it with ordinary paper glue))) everything ingenious is simple)))

screensaver - thanks for the great idea.

for the idea to stick first one paper and then what you need, I have already broken my whole head

The glue does not spoil the paper; the moment the crystal is flexible after drying, but it smells very good and has not been tried on large surfaces, but the buttons stick to the paper normally

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This topic has 5 replies, 3 members, and was last updated by Vladimir listok 03/22/2010|11:05.

Hello Lord!
There is a task of the following kind. The customer gave a paper card printed on an inkjet, to the touch about 90g/m. The card should lie under the transparent acrylic behind the PVC card and all this sandwich in nelson, everything is assembled, but the card under the acrylic goes in waves, what kind of glue can be glued to the PVC so that it does not soak? Scotch tape tried to see the stripes. Thanks in advance!

There is glue 3 M in a bottle 77 oh, it will do the job perfectly.

In order not to be fruitful to those, someone has come across vector topographic maps Russia. Where can I find?

Orabond (double sided tape). The best results when knurling in a cold laminator, but more than once rolled just with a squeegee. The trouble is, if one of the dimensions of the map is more than a meter ... although, if my memory serves me, I met him somewhere with a width of 1.26 meters.

Only the 3M-75th was available; it seems to be holding

Yeah, 75 also glues, only 77 will be more powerful. We fix the sublimation printout on the fabric when we print the flags.

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Is there starch? Dilute with hot water, get a paste and glue. You can even do this with flour.

Is there garlic? Its juice can also be glued. Even glass.

Scotch? Would it be nice to have double sided? - Forward!

Plain Oil paint Why not glue?

You can dissolve the photographic film washed with boiling water from the photo layer in acetone - get a very good glue.

Styrofoam can be dissolved in acetone.

True, it all depends on what exactly and with what you want to glue.

You can try to glue the paper with boiled potatoes. They smeared the paper with boiled potatoes cut in half and pressed the sides of the paper to each other, at the very least, but it will hold on.

I don’t know any other means than how to brew starch.

You can also melt a piece of linoleum, a plastic bag, such combustible materials are melted and glued together.

If there is no glue at hand, but you need to glue something, you can make the glue yourself. For these purposes, you need acetone and foam.

Pour into a container, a bowl and add a little foam plastic to it, crumble it. Gently stir until the foam is completely dissolved and tractors are formed, a sticky consistency that can be glued.

Here the question is of course a little unclear: it all depends on what exactly needs to be glued together. If for example paper or cardboard, then this is elementary. In this case, the usual double-sided stationery tape helps me in this case. It is easy to find in any office supply store. filming protective layer and voila, you have two whole adhesive sides. Holds up great.

You can also fasten paper with a stapler, paper clip, or, for example, potato starch.

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Plastic products are widely used in everyday life. In case of breakage, you need to know what kind of plastic glue you need for repair. In order for the gluing result to be durable and safe, we advise you to take a closer look at the types of plastic and the rules for selecting an adhesive composition.

Since some adhesives may not hold together, but dissolve plastic, it is recommended that you study the markings on the broken product. The plastic type icon looks like a triangle made up of arrows (symbol of recycling). Inside it there are numbers from 1 to 7, and below there is an inscription. According to these identification marks, the belonging of the material to one or another type of plastic is determined, which will allow you to choose the right glue.

What types of plastic exist:

1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is used to produce food packaging for liquid products.
2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, designed for the production of packaging and shrink film.
3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. It is made from plastic windows, linoleum, etc.
4 (LDPE) - low density polyethylene, toys for children, pipes, bottles, packaging containers are made from it.
5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. It is used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
6 (PS) - polystyrene. They make disposable tableware. Expanded polystyrene is widely used in construction.
7 (O) - this type of plastic is not recyclable, consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, foil.

Glue second

The main difficulty is that the labeling of the adhesive does not match the symbols for plastic recycling.

How is plastic adhesive labeled?:

PE - polyethylene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PP - polypropylene;
PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
PMMA - organic glass;
PUR - polyurethane;
PA 66 - polyamide.

Sometimes it's easier to find clear instructions in Russian than the marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the package, then the designations will help to make right choice.

Plastic is characterized by low adhesion due to its smoothness, therefore it is more difficult to glue it than other materials. In industry, such products are fastened by welding. At home, this method is not used, but you can pick up a good glue. The principle of operation of the composition is as follows: it dissolves the surface, and with strong squeezing, the parts are connected. Therefore, the main component of adhesive for plastic is a solvent for synthetic polymers. For viscosity, the composition contains liquid polystyrene.

Liquid glue for plastic and Moment plastic

The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:

hot glue. Represents solid glue sticks. They must be warmed up before use. There are special guns for convenient application of hot melt adhesive, there are also types of glue for use without a gun. Such a composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have a special bond strength.
Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can tightly glue plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. Need to use resources personal protection. For a better bonding of the parts after applying the glue, you need to wait 10 minutes, and only then squeeze them firmly.
Liquid glue for plastic manufactured on water based and considered the least effective way fastenings. It dries for a long time (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subjected to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic, which is very important when working with small parts.
Reactionary- reliable and affordable option glue for plastics. There are several types of such compositions: some are designed to work under water, others freeze under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and others work in the open air. There are one-component and two-component.

3M Scotch-Weld PR100

Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive on children's toys.

What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:

« Momentplastic"- a type of glue that connects many types of plastics. He has transparent base, quickly seizes and forms a strong connection. It is waterproof and heat resistant. However, it has toxic substances, and it is not used to repair products that come into contact with food or skin.
"Super Moment» - second glue.
3M Scotch-Weld PR100 - epoxy glue, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
Cosmofen is a brand that offers several types of adhesives for plastics. Among them, adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC, PMMA- glue for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
« Second» - superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest acting compounds.
For minor car repairs, special automotive plastic sealants are sold.
Rexant - hot-melt adhesive, produced in the form of rods. It can be transparent or colored (to mask joints if colored parts are connected).
Akfix HT300 - heat and water resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to moist air.

This is not the entire range offered by the adhesive industry. This is not to say that some glue is better or worse. Each composition is designed for specific types of work. Read the instructions carefully and follow all recommendations.

Rexant and Akfix HT300

The type of plastic is installed, the right glue is selected. How to glue plastic objects correctly:

Details should be cleaned up. If necessary, the item is degreased with soapy water or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has more adhesion, and objects will be easier to stick.
It doesn't hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them. So the glue will take better.
Two-component formulations are mixed only after surface preparation.
If the parts are covered with glue with a brush, then an object with artificial bristles is taken.
Glue is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not come to the surface.
Squeeze objects together firmly, but gently.
The duration of adherence of materials depends on the selected adhesive.

Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.

Sometimes you need to attach a variety of materials to plastic: wood, glass or metal. In this case, the adhesive must take into account the characteristics of the two surfaces to be joined, and not just the plastic.

Glue Super Moment

Job Tips with plastic:

For outdoor use, waterproof glue is used.
In spite of high temperature, which the adhesive can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be exposed to it.
When working with contact adhesive, it is necessary to ventilate the room.
The best 7(O) marking adhesive is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
If there is no marking on the product, then start from this: for plastic toys and artificial glass is taken mainly polystyrene; for bottles, buckets and boxes, glue designed for polypropylene and polyethylene is suitable.

Don't be afraid to read the label plastic products and glue. If the repair of small Lego-type toys is a simple process, then the Sekunda glue familiar to everyone may not be suitable for more serious work.

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Garlic juice. True smell..
Well, here's a torn bill so you can glue it) Anyway, then give it back
Colorless nail polish (not always suitable, but you can glue the photo)
Yeah, starch paste is also gut, And get starch - rubbing potatoes on a juicer, pouring a bowl of water and letting it stand a little. He will be at the bottom

stapler)
wallpaper glue)
snot)))
corrector)

boil starch and thicken

sugar syrup, starch, yes.

Nail polish, paints (not too diluted with water), putty, some sweet syrup.
In extreme cases, there is scotch and snot / saliva 😀

Maybe egg white? Or soap, or flour paste.

No need to be smart with any epoxy! With it, then remove excess glue from hemorrhoids, because. helluva lot it sticky, tenacious and viscous.

Take PVA glue marked D3 (or D2, as a last resort). This marking indicates the class of water resistance. The number 3 is the maximum available and is placed on a construction adhesive intended for external (!) Installation of parts. Such glue is the most durable and absolutely waterproof, transparent. Don't take any PVA from "moments" because they tend to turn red and are filthy in quality (checked more than once). Take from Pufas (the best), Krass (very good).
Gluing points need to be sanded to clean wood from varnish and paint, old glue. If you doubt the final strength of the connection, then after gluing with reverse side drilled with a thin drill and through both parts put a thin wooden pin on the glue (from a toothpick or a confectionery wooden skewer (thicker)). Remove excess glue immediately, as soon as it thickens slightly, with a dry wooden chip.

P.S. If you still choose epoxy, then take the one that is in small tubes and is conveniently mixed 1: 1. Do not take the one that says "for gluing metal", because. it is grey, not transparent. Excess resin is best removed immediately using acetone. It will be very difficult to remove it later. In any case, before final gluing, make a probe on anything you don't mind.

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Dear friends, I again have a question for the audience, "because you know everything." It's not that I can't glue paper. 🙂 But progress is moving forward, the market is littered with a million varieties of glue, and the task is serious.
Imagine a postcard like this:

Paper - 300g. It has a glossy plotter print. those. the surface is quite smooth. And this postcard, ideally, will be opened and closed several times in a lifetime, i.e. they will move it, and I would like it not to fall apart from this.

Read also: How and how to glue stones for an aquarium

In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that the ride would stick large planes. But when somewhere you need to glue a very small “tuck” (and the gluing plane is some 5 mm, and at the same time there is some tension, and this place will be subjected to some kind of load), this falls apart even more readily.

I have children's books, so voluminous, which will soon be 30 years old. And they still have not fallen apart (not counting those places that were simply torn off by the children with their hands). What were they glued to?

For me, by far the most reliable glue is the good old PVA. If it dries up and grabs, it holds tightly. But he has two drawbacks: if you smear them with a more or less noticeable plane, he can give waves. And it also releases quite a lot of moisture when it dries. Sometimes you put something freshly glued under the press or in a frame, and a couple of days later it comes out - wet! Those. you can’t just glue it and give it away - you have to dry it. Well, that's fine. I am mostly confused by waves in PVA.

And all the rest. There is a so-called "hot gun" with such plastic tubes that are melted and glued with them. It seems to be holding up well. But the layer is too thick, and it falls off too.
There are all sorts of such sticks, they are often praised. But I don't trust them either. After a while, everything glued together safely falls apart.

Still, of course, it would be nice if the glue did not get dirty too much. Another good thing about PVA is that it becomes transparent after drying.

Many praise rubber glue. But he first sometimes unexpectedly gives greasy spots. And secondly, over time, it also weathers and evaporates.

There is also a normal such paste, which seems to be boiled from starch. Here's one:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he didn't convince me either.

Accordingly, the question is: what is the best glue for paper? To keep well. Even if the bonding area is small, but there is some load? And so that there is not much dirt (and any greasy stains) from it. And so that the paper, all wet, does not worry. And for a long time. So that in a year or five it will also hold on.

Well, or maybe just someone knows how in industrial production (in printing houses?) Bulky books and bulky postcards are glued together?

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Do you think it's possible to glue something without glue? At first glance it seems that it is impossible. Sometimes to the question of one person: “How can I glue it together?” you can hear the answer: "Whatever you want!" Funny? Of course, but there is a certain amount of truth in this. How you can glue without glue, you will learn by doing this simple experiment.

What will be required:
seven identical wine corks;
a bowl of water.

An experience
Dip the cork in a bowl of water vertically - it will tip over on its side. However, there is still a way to make it float vertically. It is based on a simple physical phenomenon.
Arrange seven identical wine corks on a table vertically in a hexagon shape (one cork in the center, six around it). Now take the whole seven at once with one hand and immerse it completely in water (it should moisten the corks from all sides). Then lift the plugs slightly to the surface and gently release.

Result
The corks will float vertically on the surface of the water, tightly pressed against each other, as if they were glued together!

Explanation
This "gluing" of plugs occurs due to physical phenomenon which is called intermolecular attraction. The fact is that if the smallest particles of substances - molecules - are located very close to each other, they are mutually attracted. In the vast majority of cases, it is impossible to “move” the molecules of solids so close to each other that they “stick together” because of the uneven surfaces of these objects. However, water (or other liquid) easily fills these irregularities, and as a result, the molecules of one cork are attracted by water molecules, which are attracted by the molecules of the other cork from the opposite side. For example, a sheet of paper will not hold on a dry window, but if you wet the glass or sheet, then it's easy.

The principle of intermolecular attraction, for example, is the basis for bonding protective films(also without glue) on mobile phone screens and tablet computers. An elastic film is laid on the even and smooth surface of the glass screen, which adheres firmly due to the attraction between the molecules.

Difficulty: the experiment can be performed independently.

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Unlike thin paper, cardboard is a more rigid and dense material, so ordinary stationery (silicate) glue cannot do this task, especially if we are talking about gluing large parts.

PVA is a classic adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. This composition is successfully used for gluing various porous materials - paper, cardboard, wood, fiberboard, MDF, fabric, etc. To date, PVA remains the most popular adhesive in cardboard modeling.

Suitable for bonding almost all natural materials.

On sale you can find several varieties of this glue: stationery, household, universal and construction.

Choosing PVA glue for cardboard, we recommend paying attention to the universal PVA glue, the so-called PVA-MB. It is not as liquid as stationery, and not as rough as construction, which is used for gluing linoleum and carpet.

It is most profitable to buy universal PVA glue in hardware stores, where it is usually sold in large packages (500 gr, 1 kg, etc.). As for the shortcomings, PVA glue has only one - after drying, the parts to be glued warp a little.

Moment Joiner Express is a modern adhesive from Henkel. Designed specifically for working with wood, plywood, veneer, fiberboard, MDF, cardboard and other natural materials.

Its composition resembles PVA glue, but it is improved with special additives that improve the adhesion of the composition, make it more elastic when dried. glue corrugated cardboard this glue is very convenient, because the glue line sets quickly, eliminating the slipping of the glued parts.

Moment Stolyar Express becomes colorless after drying, which is important when modeling - the glue will not be noticeable in the seams between the parts to be glued.

Modeling Adhesive UHU Holzleim Express is a fast-setting wood adhesive with surprisingly high adhesive power.

Specially developed by UHU specialists for modeling, housework, wooden furniture repair, etc. Designed for gluing any wood and wood-like materials in any combination.

Ideal for bonding cardboard and paper, also suitable for bonding cardboard to cardboard.

It is indispensable when fast setting of the glued surfaces is required. After drying, it becomes transparent, resistant to moisture.

Moment Universal Gel is a modern waterproof and frost-resistant express adhesive in the form of a gel, which does not spread or drip.

Retains elasticity after drying, does not warp or deform the glued parts.

Moment Universal Gel is widely used in modeling and creativity, when it is necessary to quickly and reliably glue wood, ceramics, PVC, rubber, cork, fabrics and other materials.

Ideal for gluing paper, cardboard and corrugated cardboard, incl. inclined surfaces and large surfaces.

"505" Universal second glue - liquid transparent adhesive composition, similar in consistency to water. Designed for bonding metal, rubber, leather, ceramics, paper, cardboard, wood, plastic, etc.

Indispensable when instant fixation is required small parts from paper and cardboard when modeling.

Paper (cardboard) modeling is one of the most accessible types technical creativity, however, when working with cardboard and glue, certain nuances should be taken into account.

In particular, it is necessary to work with extreme care with water-based adhesives, since when the water dries, the material “pulls” and the product begins to deform.

To prevent the paper from warping during drying, the glue must be applied in a thin, even layer on one of the surfaces to be glued. After that, the parts are connected and ironed so that air bubbles do not form under them.

No need to try to assemble the model quickly, this should be done in stages, only after the frame has completely dried.

When working with Moment glue, precautions should be taken, since it is based on solvents. It is not recommended to inhale its vapors, since they are toxic, after gluing the product should be left to dry in a ventilated area.

source

At home or at work, people are often faced with the need to glue paper to cardboard. This situation is well known to office workers, lovers of arts and crafts (cardboard modeling, scrapbooking, appliqué or quilling), as well as most parents with children. preschool age or schoolchildren. How to glue cardboard, or what kind of glue to glue paper to it is not an idle question at all, especially considering the different density of these two materials and the significant thickness of the cardboard. Not every glue can glue paper and cardboard so that this connection is reliable and looks aesthetically pleasing!

Before deciding what is the best way to glue cardboard and paper, you need to find out what characteristic properties such an adhesive composition should have. In order for the adhesive bond of cardboard and paper to be strong enough, the adhesive must be:

medium consistency (not thick and not liquid), so that it can be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued, while thinner paper should not warp from excess moisture;
without a sharp unpleasant odor;
environmentally friendly and non-toxic;
colorless when dried, so that at the place of gluing it does not appear yellow shade spoiling appearance;
convenient and comfortable to use.

The adhesive composition for cardboard and paper must have good adhesion with porous materials, and when cured, form a flexible adhesive seam. It is best to choose a ready-to-use adhesive that can be applied with a dispenser or brush.

On the market today there is a large selection of adhesives that can be used to glue paper to cardboard. Each of them satisfies most of the properties required for gluing cardboard and paper, but has some disadvantages:

silicate glue gives a strong, but not sufficiently elastic seam;
dry glue stick does not warp thin paper, but has low adhesion;
clerical PVA glue contains a large amount of water;
transparent grades of polyurethane adhesive form a neat elastic seam, do not warp paper, but have a high cost;
gum arabic, which is the resin of the dried juice of some varieties of acacia, is not ready for use;
flour or starch paste also needs to be prepared before use.

The most convenient, inexpensive and reliable adhesive that can be used to carefully and aesthetically glue paper to cardboard is PVA glue, made on the basis of polyvinyl acetate dispersion. Only for this purpose, you need to choose not a clerical option, but its other types, for example:

universal glue PVA-MB;
universal KU or KU-27;
super PVA glue "Moment";
wallpaper glue PVA and some other varieties with a lower water content.

It is PVA glue that is the most common and popular for gluing paper and cardboard.

In order to glue the paper to the cardboard as evenly as possible with PVA glue, you must:

apply a thin layer of glue on one of the surfaces to be glued;
gently lay them on top of each other, and smooth with your hand, removing air from under the paper;
put the product to be glued under the press for 15 minutes;
Let the glue dry for 24 hours.

For accurate gluing of cardboard and paper, buy high-quality glue from trusted manufacturers - such as our company Concord ChMP!

source

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Master class on decoupage on wood: Implanting a laser print on nail polish remover.

Master class on aging wood and implanting (implanting) napkins. Author - Zhukova Marie.

Shading in decoupage. http://www.decoupage-k.com.

"Beauty is in the details" N. Rodina At the webinar: Decoupage and decor: famous classical pr.

IMITATION OF METAL, AS I SEE IT. IMITATION OF METAL, AS I SEE IT. Margarita Tsybato.

Helpful Hints(what, how and what to glue)

Before proceeding with the direct gluing of the motif on the surface, the surface must be treated so that the motif adheres better and the product itself looks like a finished work. The surface can be different: wood, plastic, glass, porcelain (dishes), metal or cardboard. In each case, surface preparation is different.

Wood: before gluing the motif, the tree must be primed with a wood primer and preferably painted with acrylic paints (you can use 1 layer if you then have a whole motif or several layers if the motifs on the surface are selectively located).

Plastic: before sticking to plastic, it must be degreased with a solution of alcohol, for example, and then covered with dissolved PVA glue or a special primer for plastic, this will help the motif stick better to the plastic.

Glass: before gluing the motif, degrease with alcohol or vinegar.

In the process of decoupage on glass, you may encounter such a problem as the loss of brightness and contrast of the napkin pattern. This is because the glue makes the base of the napkin a little transparent. So, if the chosen motive contained pastel shades and gentle color transitions, the picture will change after gluing, the colors seem to fade before our eyes. There is a way out of this situation and it is quite simple. However, it is only suitable if you glued the napkin face down. So, we take the surface to be decorated with a glued decoupage napkin and paint over the entire paper surface with acrylic paint (preferably white). Turn over - and oops! the colors are back.

Read also: How to remove a sticker without leaving marks from glasses

Porcelain: The procedure is the same as with glass.

Metal: before sticking to this surface, the metal should be treated first with a rust neutralizer, then go over the metal with a primer, and then paint with acrylic paints.

Cardboard: before gluing the motif, the gaps in the cardboard can be puttied, and the cardboard itself can be sanded and painted with acrylic paints in 2-3 layers.

Difficulties in working with a cardboard surface arise due to its deformation when working with paints diluted with water. To prevent this from happening, the surface must first be primed.
This can be done with gypsum diluted with water to a pasty (but not liquid!) State. In this case, it is more convenient to apply it with a dense dry sponge or brush. After complete drying (you can speed up the process with a hair dryer), the surface is treated with fine sandpaper, achieving smoothness of the surface covered with gypsum, and after that they start decorating.
You can also process special cardboard. primer on wood and cardboard, apply with a spatula / palette knife or flat brush 2-3 layers with intermediate sanding.
And another way to protect the cardboard from deformation is to prime it with varnish.
If you are decorating a glossy box, then you need to sand it before priming. If there are holes in the cardboard, they can be “removed” with a mass of papier-mache and after that primed.
If you have cardboard box with a hinged lid, then the fold must be glued with rubber glue so that the paint in this place does not crack or fly off.

Operating procedure.
If we work with wooden surface, then first you need to sand it and apply a primer, which can be used as an acrylic paint of a suitable color.

Cut out your favorite pattern from the napkin. Next, we separate the two lower layers of paper - we only need colorful - and apply it to the surface.

We apply a thin layer of varnish with a brush, smoothing the napkin and making sure that there are no bubbles under it. After drying (see the label for drying time), apply another layer of varnish.

If we apply a pattern to textiles, then it is necessary to cover the napkin with several layers of textile glue. After drying, the fabric with a pattern can be carefully ironed with a warm iron through a cloth.

The ceramic product must be fired in the oven three days after drawing. To do this, put the item in a cold oven, heat it to 140-150 degrees, hold for half an hour and turn it off. It is necessary to leave the product in the oven until completely cooled.

Smooth surfaces must be degreased with alcohol before gluing motifs.

The lighter the ground, the brighter the pattern looks on it and vice versa - the use of a dark base color makes the pattern seem to dissolve. These properties can be used to achieve various decorative effects. Best for soil acrylic paints.

What and how to glue?

Here I will try to talk about what tools can be used for gluing in decoupage. And I will share the methods that I know.

I use PVA glue. I have furniture, imported, Italian PVA.

pwa there are two types:

Furniture(carpentry). Can be bought at construction market. I strongly recommend buying only imported options, because something yellow is added to ours, domestic. Our glue must be defended, this yellow oily liquid must be drained and only then used. If it is not defended, then over time they will appear on the product yellow spots, in those places. where the adhesive was applied.
Clerical. Sold in any stationery store in small quantities.

before gluing, PVA must be DILUTED WITH WATER!!

I dilute approximately 1: 4, that is, one part of glue, and four parts of water. Although, it’s also not always, if the picture is denser, then I dilute it smaller, to a consistency of about kefir, and if for a napkin, then I dilute it like baked milk .

I have tried glue on varnish, ordinary acrylic water varnish. This method is indispensable when the picture is very dense or very glossy. For example a photograph.

Can also glue stick crate, on the egg white . Haven't tried it so I can't tell. If you are interested in non-standard methods, you will find answers to these questions on needlework forums.

Now, how to glue?

For gluing dense pictures, there are no tricks. Cut out the motif, put it in water for a short time, take it out and blot it with a towel. Smear the picture with glue, apply it to the surface, roll it with a roller (or just a roll of adhesive tape) or press it with your hands, a rag, anything, just to no air bubbles left under the picture. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

But gluing a napkin without wrinkles, it's a whole science :))) And I hope you will contribute to this matter :)) I know several ways, and use them, depending on the situation.

puddle method.

This method is suitable for both small and large motifs. I am a supporter of the fact that it is better to swell the glue than not to swell :)) In general, I use this method almost always. It consists in the fact that:

Take a napkin, cut out the motif, put it on the place where you want to stick it. With gentle movements, smooth the cut out picture. Where it is not smoothed out, some kind of folds have formed, add more glue and disperse it all .. when smoothing, the excess glue will drive over the edges, remove it with a damp cloth.

After that, I take a soft, damp cloth, and with blotting movements I go through the entire glued area, removing, if left, excess glue and removing the remaining folds (where without them :))

If the motive is not very small or it is a whole napkin, then diluted glue is applied to the middle (it is poured directly from the can), and from the middle in a circular motion, the napkin straightens out. I hope that the explanation is generally clear, in the near future I undertake to shoot a master class .. in the basics.

Bonding with polyethylene file

An indispensable method for gluing whole napkins and large fragments. Ideal also for gluing small but very whimsical napkin motifs.

And in general, to be honest, it is ideal for everything, very easy to use. Read the instructions for this method

Iron bonding

As I said, there are napkins that are simply unrealistic to stick entirely on diluted PVA. I used such a napkin on backgammon and the Savannah box. As soon as glue got on it, it began to spread in all directions and divided into many small fragments.

In this case, it is necessary to coat the surface with diluted PVA and leave to dry. Then a napkin is applied to the dried PVA, paper is placed on top of the napkin and ironed. Then, on top, it is carefully varnished with a thin layer, I try to smear the first layer with an almost semi-dry brush so that the varnish dries immediately without lifting the napkin. If you apply a lot of varnish at once, then the napkin may rise and wrinkle in some places ...

We will stick half of the napkin. Remove the bottom layers. Spray the napkin with varnish evenly at a distance of 20 cm.

We put a napkin on an ironing board, cover it with paper and iron it well.

Now it sticks easily and without wrinkles. The already glued part is shown here. We glue the napkin with PVA glue, diluted with water 1: 1. Apply glue with a brush over the napkin, gently smoothing it to the sides. You can slowly pull the napkin, thereby getting rid of the wrinkles. After varnish, the napkin becomes a little elastic.

What can be glued? Everything!

First things first, let's decide "what can be glued?" I can answer: "Everything!". Whatever you like in terms of pattern, coloring. texture, etc., including fabric and polyethylene (the latter is true, I haven’t tried it myself, but I heard :)))

1. The most common is napkin.

These are not special, not decoupage (as they say in some online stores) napkins. These are the usual three or, which happens less often, two-layer napkins that we buy in packs in order to dry our hands. What a horror.)))

In order to glue the napkin, all lower soybeans are separated from it (no matter how many there are). usually two layers. Those. leave for sticker, only upper layer, the one with the picture.

One layer of a napkin is a rather thin paper substance, which, when soaked, will try with all its might to spread in your hands, and be sure to gather in folds. This phenomenon is quite easy to overcome, you just need to try a little and everything will work out.))

There are napkins from different companies, and in general, already looking at the packaging, an experienced decoupager can tell how this or that napkin will behave approximately. There are firms that have napkins, you just drip glue on them, they immediately begin to spread, although they haven’t done anything with it yet, and haven’t touched it. And there are napkins, firms, which you pour on her and carry her over the surface, and here and there, and at least she has henna, not a single hole.

WORK WITH NAPKINS

Before work, the napkin must be ironed with steam. It's better not to do this ironing board- it is soft, but on something more solid, for example, on MDF.

1) has become less transparent, and, therefore, it could be pasted on a darker background,

2) not so spread during the gluing process,

and also so that even the thinnest fragments can be cut out - almost a thread thick - and so that the perforation becomes invisible, it is necessary to sprinkle it with either a colorless varnish or a white spray. You just need to cover the napkin with the thinnest layer, otherwise it will simply soak, and you can throw it away.

It is necessary to spray so that only white dust reaches the napkin, in no case droplets. And the dust should, as it were, “dry during the flight.” Look at the jet from the side and you will understand how far to spray. Moreover, a small press on the button provokes drops.

The main thing here is more distance to the napkin and do not overdo it so that only a slight haze appears on the napkin. Dries instantly.

If we want to get a clear picture, we cut it out of the napkin with scissors exactly along the edge. And if we want such a slightly “sloppy” background around (sometimes it looks interesting) or if the drawing on a napkin is on a white background, then the drawing can be pulled out by slightly wetting it. Then the napkin "dissolves", and the torn edges are not visible.

Much depends on the background of the napkin. You can precisely choose the paint for the background so that it does not differ from the background of the motif. Then the motif can be cut out or pulled out with a margin, pasted on a white surface, and then painted over the background with a precisely matched color. If you pick it up well, then the transition will not be noticeable.

When the background of the napkin is very light, you can first paint everything, and then stick the motif with the “contour”. But only if the background color matches our paint.

The colorful layer of the napkin, which is used for decoupage, is very thin; after applying varnish, it generally becomes transparent. It is not recommended to put a napkin on a napkin. It turns out sloppy, the bottom layer is translucent. If you need to combine several motifs from one or more napkins in your work, you will have to cut off all the parts that overlap each other.

Lacquer napkins cover with any, no special is needed. They are used on a water basis, as they dry faster and do not turn yellow as much. It is better to varnish the next day, without passing the brush twice in the same place, which causes flaking and stretching of the napkin.

Not very common, but I like it very much. In order to stick a postcard, it must first be soaked and the entire thickness removed so that only a thin pattern remains. This is done either with a fine skin, or rolled up with your fingers. If you decide to try to work with a postcard, I advise you to watch a master class on decorating a box with a postcard, everything is explained in detail in it.

5. magazine clippings

The work is exactly the same as with decoupage cards and printouts, soak, blot with a towel, if necessary, roll up (sand off) the bottom layer, and glue. You can learn how to work with a magazine clipping in this master class.

6. Rice paper.

There are two types of this paper: with a pattern and without.

Rice paper is very easy to work with. Due to its uneven texture, there is no need to be afraid of any folds, etc. Just put it on, coat it with glue and blot it with a cloth, removing excess glue and that's it ... you're done.

While undeniably easy to use, rice paper also makes for a very interesting backdrop. It can be made in one color, you can have several, or you can even try many different multi-colored pieces :))))

How to make "pseudo rice paper"

If the work is done on a plate (rear), proceed as follows:

- smear the back of the PVA plate

- we throw flower petals, threads, etc. on it. (optional), you can throw nothing

- and cover the whole thing (not yet dry) with 1 white layer of napkin

- now we roll everything with a pressure roller, folds in this case are welcome.

- then we cover the napkin with a layer of PVA mixed with paint of the shade we want

- roll with a roller (just in case)

Well, for ordinary surfaces, the actions are reversed. After all, 1 layer of the napkin is also so thin that it shines through like rice paper, and any color can be given, or even several colors at once, and I’m generally silent about filling.

If there is no rice paper, it can be replaced with a third layer of napkin. The white layer can be wrinkled, while the creases form, as it were, “fibers”, “veins”. Of course, it will turn out not quite the same, but a little similar.

floral felt, sold in flower shop.

This is wrapping paper, it is made of some kind of grass (maybe even an imitation of grass, you can’t understand it to the touch), the blades of grass are glued together, so the paper is quite hard. The material is extremely non-plastic, the folds form rough and poorly adhered. The overlap also does not stick very well. You can stick it, but only on a flat surface and a fairly large amount of glue. Glue all the time, as it were, flows through this mesh.

Dear friends, I again have a question for the audience, "because you know everything." It's not that I can't glue paper. :-) But progress is moving forward, the market is littered with a million varieties of glue, and the task is serious.
Imagine a postcard like this:

In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that large planes were glued to the ride. But when somewhere you need to glue a very small "tuck" (and the gluing plane is some 5 mm, and at the same time there is some tension, and this place will be subjected to some kind of load), it falls apart even more readily.

And everyone else ... There is a so-called "hot gun" with plastic tubes that melt and glue them. It seems to be holding up well. But the layer is too thick, and it falls off too.
There are all sorts of such sticks, they are often praised. But I don't trust them either. After a while, everything glued together safely falls apart.

Still, of course, it would be nice if the glue did not get dirty too much. That's what PVA is good for - it becomes transparent after drying.

Many praise rubber glue. But he first sometimes unexpectedly gives greasy spots. And secondly, over time, it also weathers and evaporates.

There is also a normal such paste, which seems to be boiled from starch. Here's one:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he didn't convince me either.

Well, or maybe just someone knows how in industrial production (in printing houses?) Bulky books and bulky postcards are glued together?

Friends, all good mood! As usual, the topic of this article will also deal with computer topics, but from a slightly different angle. Let's talk about what glue plastic to plastic tightly.

This life hack was found by me on the Internet and put into practice even at sub-zero temperatures. The person I learned about this method from originally used it to glue laptop cases around the screen hinges. Believe me, this is a very busy part. And the plastic there is such that not a single super glue takes it at all.

But the matter is fundamentally changed by ordinary edible salt. Yes, yes, friends, you just need to do explosive mixture from super glue and salt. You can, of course, try soda, but after looking at the tests, I came to the conclusion that salt is still better:

So, let's start gluing the plastic tightly. Let's just show this with an example. car bumper, which initially tried to glue different types of adhesives, but it was useless.

First, the damaged area must be shed degreaser. It is clear that due to the specifics of the crack, it did not work out perfectly. But nevertheless, as it is. Next, a pinch of fine salt was taken, which was abundantly sprinkled on the "wound":

After that, we use ordinary super glue. Before that, by the way, he did not glue the plastic of this bumper at all. Tried this and that, no result:

But after applying this life hack, the situation has changed radically. Even despite the fact that the gluing process took place at a temperature of -2, the plastic finally stuck together tightly. Of course, visually the "fault" remained visible, since a lot of salt was swollen:

In general, friends, this is how things are. If one of you has already tried this method, please write in the comments about the successes and materials that you glued together. That's all for now and see you soon!

What does the marking on plastic mean?

What types of plastic exist:

1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is used to produce food packaging for liquid products.
2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, designed for the production of packaging and shrink film.
3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. Plastic windows, linoleum, etc. are made from it.
4 (LDPE) - low density polyethylene, toys for children, pipes, bottles, packaging containers are made from it.
5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. It is used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
6 (PS) - polystyrene. They make disposable tableware. Expanded polystyrene is widely used in construction.
7 (O) - this type of plastic is not recyclable, consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, foil.

Glue marking

The main difficulty is that the labeling of the adhesive does not match the symbols for plastic recycling.

How is plastic adhesive labeled?:

PE - polyethylene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PP - polypropylene;
PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
PMMA - organic glass;
PUR - polyurethane;
PA 66 - polyamide.

Sometimes it is easier to find clear instructions in Russian than a marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the package, then the designations will help you make the right choice.

Types of glue

Liquid glue for plastic and Moment plastic

The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:

hot glue. It is a hard glue stick. They must be warmed up before use. There are special ones, there are also types of glue for use without a gun. Such a composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have a special bond strength.
Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can tightly glue plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. It is necessary to use personal protective equipment. For a better bonding of the parts after applying the glue, you need to wait 10 minutes, and only then squeeze them firmly.
is water-based and is considered the least effective bonding method. It dries for a long time (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subjected to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic, which is very important when working with small parts.
Reactionary- A reliable and affordable adhesive option for plastics. There are several types of such compositions: some are designed to work under water, others freeze under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and others work in the open air. There are one-component and two-component.

Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive on children's toys.

Product examples

What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:

« Moment plastic"- a type of glue that connects many types of plastics. It has a transparent base, sets quickly and forms a strong bond. It is waterproof and heat resistant. However, it contains toxic substances, and it is not used to repair products that come into contact with food or skin.
"Super Moment» - second glue.
- epoxy glue, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
"" - a brand that offers several types of glue for plastic. Among them, adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC, PMMA- glue for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
« Second» - superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest acting compounds.
For minor car repairs, special automotive plastic sealants are sold.
Rexant - hot-melt adhesive, produced in the form of rods. It can be transparent or colored (to mask joints if colored parts are connected).
Akfix HT300 - heat and water resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to moist air.

How to glue plastic

The type of plastic is installed, the right glue is selected. How to glue plastic objects correctly:

Details should be cleaned up. If necessary, the item is degreased with soapy water or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has more adhesion, and objects will be easier to stick.
It doesn't hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them. So the glue will take better.
Two-component formulations are mixed only after surface preparation.
If the parts are covered with glue with a brush, then an object with artificial bristles is taken.
Glue is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not come to the surface.
Squeeze objects together firmly, but gently.
The duration of adherence of materials depends on the selected adhesive.

Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.

Glue Super Moment

Job Tips with plastic:

For outdoor use, waterproof glue is used.
Despite the high temperature that the adhesive can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be exposed to it.
When working with contact adhesive, it is necessary to ventilate the room.
The best 7(O) marking adhesive is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
If there is no marking on the product, then start from this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, mainly polystyrene is taken; for bottles, buckets and boxes, glue designed for polypropylene and polyethylene is suitable.

Do not be too lazy to study the marking of plastic products and glue. If the repair of small Lego-type toys is a simple process, then the Sekunda glue familiar to everyone may not be suitable for more serious work.