Make a bath with your hands drawings. Russian bath with your own hands

Having your own plot of land gives you an excellent opportunity to acquire your own bathhouse or sauna.

In order for the installation of such a building not to cause problems, we will consider in this article the stages of building a bath with our own hands.

Installation progress

The first step is to choose a place for the future building. If you have a small plot, then it is quite simple: the foundation should be laid where a residential building will not be erected.

For larger areas, make your choice based on personal preference. However, compliance with the norms must also be adhered to.

Foundation

The construction of a bath in stages with your own hands begins with the installation of the foundation. The bathhouse is not a large multi-storey building and does not imply the presence of heavy stationary furniture inside. Therefore, it makes no sense to fill in a monolithic reinforced concrete slab and you can get by with a pile or strip base.

Although the pile model is somewhat cheaper, it is recommended to resort to it only in cases where the terrain for construction is sloping or low-lying.

The best choice would be to implement a strip footing, because it:

• Has a higher strength. Useful in case you want to add an attic in the future.
• Creates additional thermal insulation. For a steam room, this is an important advantage.
• Provides the ability to organize an underground or cellar.

1. We remove the vegetation layer from the site selected for building.
2. Using pegs and a cord, we mark the future foundation.

1. We dig a trench around the entire perimeter and in places where they will pass. The depth is 50 cm, the width is 10 cm more than the intended walls.

Advice: in order to save money, it is allowed to lay the foundation level with them under the inner walls.
Since they still have no bearing load.

1. Fill in a 15 cm thick gravel pillow and ram it thoroughly.
2. We lay a layer of waterproofing in the form of a polyethylene film.
3. We mount on the sides of the ditch a formwork made of knocked down board boards, which should rise 20 cm above the level of soil freezing.

1. We mix the mortar: gravel, sand and cement in proportions of 5: 2.5: 1. We add water according to the situation for ease of mixing and giving to the mass of fluidity.
2. We are waiting for 28 days, after which you can start further work.

Log house

Although the price of wood is higher than many modern building materials for a bath, there is no better option. Traditional wood with its warmth, smell and aesthetic appearance cannot be fully replaced with cheap cinder block or foam block.

For the construction of the sauna body, a wooden beam with a section of 15 cm by 15 cm is best suited.

There are two ways to build:

• Into the paw.

• Into the bowl.

During installation, the following nuances are observed:

• The optimum height for walls is 250 cm.
• Thermal insulation materials must be placed between the crowns.
• The wood is treated with antiseptics to protect it from decay processes and the attack of pests.

Advice: for the lower crowns, it makes sense to specifically purchase stronger and more reliable tree species, such as oak or larch.
They will be able to more successfully withstand the dampness coming from the ground.

Floor

1. To comply with waterproofing, we lay a layer of roofing material on the concrete of the foundation.
2. We install wooden beams on top.

1. On the beams, stele an unedged board 15-20 mm thick, fixing it with nails or self-tapping screws. This creates a rough floor layer.
2. We mount the logs on the rough base.
3. Between the lags.
   As which are great:
   
   • Styrofoam;
   • extruded polyurethane foam;
   • basalt wool;

• • expanded clay.

1. We must cover the insulating material on top with a waterproofing layer in the form of a polyethylene film with a thickness of three millimeters.
2. We make the finishing layer from a grooved three-centimeter board.

Tip: when installing the floor structure, provide a distance of a couple of centimeters between the insulation and the finishing coating for better air ventilation.

Ceiling

Now the step-by-step construction of a bathhouse with your own hands is suitable for arranging the ceiling, which has its own characteristics due to the presence of the most aggressive environment. Indeed, especially during operation in winter, the ceiling is exposed to the strongest heat from the bottom of the steam room, and from above there is severe frost.

The most consistent with the bathing conditions is a hemmed structure, which is performed as follows:

1. Are installed. As with the frame, you can use the paw and cup methods.

1. On top we lay and fix the unedged board.
2. From the inside, standing on a ladder with a stele a polyethylene film for waterproofing with a release on the side walls, closing the beam openings.
3. We mount insulation sheets between the beams:
   
   • mineral wool;

• • felt;
  • penoizol;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane foam.

1. Next, close everything. It serves as a vapor barrier and reflects heat radiation. We fasten it with a film to ensure sealing.
2. We nail wooden planks through the foil to the beams.
3. We attach grooved boards to the installed rails.
   Wherein:
   
   • We leave two centimeter gaps between the ceiling lining and the wall to ensure air conditioning.
   • We use clamps for fixing.

Roof

The roof structure can be gable or single-pitched. Shed, of course, is economical, but also less practical. If you want your bath to serve you for a long time and reliably, it is recommended to install a two-slope system. Moreover, it will also allow you to equip an attic utility room.

The roof consists of a rafter system, lathing and an insulating coating material. If you do not have experience in the relevant work, then it is advisable to invite a specialist to carry out this stage.

Metal tiles are perfect for covering. And if the slopes on one side of the building are taken out half a meter, then you can equip a wonderful woodpile.

Internal work

By this time, the ceiling and floor are already ready, therefore, the stages of finishing the bath now consist in the wall cladding:

1. We stuff parallel strips on the inner surface.
2. We install insulation materials between them. Basalt wool, felt, foam and extruded polyurethane are still in demand.

1. Cover the insulation with foil to reflect heat radiation.
2. We cover with a grooved board using clamps. This will get rid of the protruding caps of the self-tapping screws, which can later cause burns.

Everything, the bath is ready. All that remains is to install the furniture and the stove, after which you can start operating the bath.

Conclusion

Building a bath with your own hands is of course troublesome. But the result is worth it. It is not possible to single out the more important among all the stages of construction, all of them, one way or another, affect the quality of the future bath.

• The wood that is used for the construction and decoration of the bath is vulnerable to dampness and therefore it must be protected as much as possible by creating good ventilation and treatment with antiseptics.
  
• The steam room will only be of high quality and economical in terms of fuel consumption when maximum thermal insulation is provided. Therefore, pay special attention to building insulation.

The video in this article will acquaint you with additional materials on this topic. Successful construction work!

In the steam room of the Russian bath, in contrast to the sauna, the humidity is slightly higher. The temperature regime is also a lesser shock for the body: in such a room you can stay for more time and thoroughly “steam the bones”. Therefore, most Russians choose a Russian bathhouse.
When hiring a construction team, the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on a building plan. You can create your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that is most suitable in size.

Bath projects

Building registration

No permission is required for the construction of ancillary premises on a private plot. However, after the completion of construction, the building must be registered with the BTI.

To avoid conflict with neighbors on the site and controlling organizations, the rules for drainage should be strictly observed. The bathhouse is considered a sanitary facility and must be located at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the edge of the adjacent area. If there is no separate drain for water, this distance increases to 3.5 m.

The distance between buildings, including neighboring ones, is also regulated. The calculation also takes into account the materials from which the structure is being erected. So, if between brick buildings you can leave a distance of 6 m, then between wooden ones - at least 15 m.If the building is being erected in the country, then the distance to the forest is also regulated - from 15 m.

Regulated distance between buildings

Calculation of the amount of materials

Most often, baths are erected from solid or rounded coniferous logs, thick-walled timber, arbolite or brick. In recent years, foam concrete has also been used for construction. However, wood is considered the best material for it. Even in the hottest heated sauna, this environmentally friendly material will breathe easily and freely.

You will also need crushed stone, sand, cement, reinforcement for the construction of the foundation; sawn timber for floors and ceilings, doors and windows, insulation, roofing materials, brick or metal for the stove, etc. Since most wholesale companies offer substantial discounts, it is advisable to purchase all materials in one place. The estimate also needs to include the cost of supplying electricity.

Wooden profiled timber is more expensive than a solid log. You can save a little if you use not a bar, but a rounded log. It is much easier to construct a building from such materials: the tree does not have to be "finished" by yourself. If desired, you can purchase and already finished log house, disassemble, transfer to your own territory and assemble according to the numbering of the logs.

To keep the building warm, it is advisable to use thick-walled timber with a thickness of 150 mm or more. Working with raw logs is much more difficult and requires certain skills. In addition, the timber also gives less shrinkage.

Rounded logs, regular and profiled beams

Construction of a bath from chopped, rounded logs and beams

To find out the required quantity cubic meters, it is necessary to multiply the length of each wall by the height and thickness of the building, and then calculate the sum of the volume of all walls; the thickness of the material can be obtained from the supplier;

When purchasing beams or logs pieces the calculation will be different: the length of all walls around the perimeter will need to be divided by the length of the material (for example, 6 m); then divide the height of the bath (optimal 2.1 m) by the thickness of the walls (from 0.2 m), multiply the resulting number by the number of walls (4) and the number of beams that will be needed to erect one crown (i.e. one row, strapping log house).

Shrinkage of the building

Collect building from a bar preferably in winter. The fact is that in winter moisture freezes out more slowly, and the deformation of the material occurs more evenly. By the end of summer, the main subsidence is almost over, and finishing can already begin.

During the construction of a bath solid log shrinkage (and hence the finishing of the building) will have to wait much longer - up to 2 years. By the way, that is why you should not agree to the construction of a "turnkey" bathhouse within a couple of months, which is offered by some firms. The fact is that with insufficient shrinkage of the building, cracks may appear in the cladding. Therefore, before the start of finishing, the building must withstand the allotted time.

Erection of the foundation

If the groundwater in the selected area is deep enough, it makes sense to use the usual one. A pile or screw foundation is erected only when the waters are close.

Belt and pile foundations for a bath

Laying the first crown

1. The trim (first) crown, which is closest to the ground, needs reliable waterproofing. For this, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other material based on bitumen are laid between it and the base. On top of it, in the transverse direction, short slats of 15 mm, treated with an antiseptic, are placed, and only then the logs are laid out.

Direction of laying the battens

2. It is advisable to assemble the log house on the ground, since it is not very convenient to fit the crown on the foundation. The first crown should be made of the thickest log, without knots and blueness, and preferably from the wood most resistant to decay: larch or oak.

3. All the bars of this crown are thoroughly coated with bitumen. In order for the impregnation to soak into the wood as deeply as possible, it can be mixed with mining. The ends of the log are not processed so that the moisture can evaporate.

4. Layout of the crown is verified by the level with special accuracy. When installing the lower links, which are closest to all in contact with the ground, the possibility of their replacement is immediately provided. For this, the logs are simply joined at the corners with their ends, without a lock.

Corner connections of log cabins

The corners between adjacent walls can be connected in log cabins in different ways:

"Into the bowl"(sometimes this method is called "in a flash"): on the surface of a log, a bowl is cut with an ax so that the neighboring logs enter it by half; the ends of the logs at the same time go beyond the boundaries of the frame;

"In the paw": such felling is more labor intensive and does not tolerate mistakes; at the corners, a lock is selected from the logs (a thorn is prepared on one side of the log, and a groove on the other); the main difficulty lies in maintaining the exact dimensions of the joint.

When cutting "into the bowl", the parts protruding at the corners of the building are able to reliably cover the joint from rain and snow. Plus this cabin is much easier. At the same time, the building looks "antique", but its external cladding will not be possible.

Corner connections of log cabins

Assembly of a log house

1. The logs should fit as closely as possible to each other. The seams between them are laid with a sealant: tow or jute. The gap between the flashing ring and the foundation is additionally sealed with bricks, polyurethane foam, halves of logs or blocks. You can also provide a fill multilevel foundation, which will prevent the appearance of cracks.

Foundation with different levels

2. When assembling a building from a non-profiled beam, to prevent the logs from twisting, they are planted on dowels- strong rods made of metal or wood.

Nageli

3. During the shrinkage of the structure, doors and windows may jam. To avoid their deformation, they use a box - boxes that are installed in door and window openings with special grooves. When the structure shrinks and moves, the windows or doors will move along such grooves with it. It can be of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped

4. Above each opening, be sure to leave a seam of 3-4 cm to compensate for movement. After the structure has shrunk, it is closed with cashing.

Important! A seal (linen or jute fabric) must be placed under the window. Polyurethane foam will prevent the shrinkage of the logs, so its use is undesirable. The grooves and ridges must be caulked after installation.

Okosyachka for windows and grooves in window openings for her

5. Upper crown (mauerlat) will be a support for the roof. Just as in the case of the flange, the strongest logs without defects are selected for it.

Video: Building a bath with your own hands in stages
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

Today the bath is gaining more and more popularity among people rushing in the cycle of modern life.

The useful properties of bath procedures on the human body have long been proven by science, therefore, many owners of personal plots seek to build this structure in their yard.

This article brings to your attention a material with which you will get acquainted with the modern approaches used in construction for these premises.

For a visual conviction, just look at a selection of photos, which show ready-made solutions regarding the construction of the whole frame, and interior decoration.

Types of bath projects

Any construction begins with a project that will allow you to imagine what the final appearance of this structure will have, and how much of the necessary materials you will need for this.

In addition, the development of the project includes such parameters as the choice of a place for construction, dimensions, as well as information about the decor and design used.

The most common types of bath projects are:

• Construction of a structure 3 * 3 m, consisting of a standard set of premises - a dressing room and a steam room;
• Construction of a structure 3 * 5 m, here a recreation room with a small kitchen is added to the standard set of premises;

• A plan with dimensions of 4 * 4 m implies the presence of a terrace extension to the above-described type;
• The project of a bath with dimensions 5 * 4, includes the whole complex of premises of a modern steam room, where there can be a separate toilet, a games room, and a salt room.

Basically, the choice of a project depends on the available space on the personal plot and financial capabilities.

Choosing a foundation for a bath

Often, during the construction of this structure, one of the three main types of foundation is used. It can be a strip, columnar or pile foundation.

Tape. It is the most common type of foundation for the construction of most structures, including a bath.

The advantage of this foundation is that it is able to withstand heavy loads, therefore, if your future structure will have relatively impressive dimensions of brick, then this foundation option is ideal for construction.

Columnar. It has distinctive features associated with the simple arrangement of this foundation and small financial investments, it is mainly used for relatively light structures from a bar.

It is erected exclusively in places where large loads occur, which mainly occur at the corners of the building and at the intersection of load-bearing structures.

Pile. This type of foundation is necessary for those who are forced to build their bathhouse on "moving" ground.

This is a reliable type with a rather laborious construction process, and is justified precisely in those regions in which this type of soil dominates.

Errors made during the construction of a bath

Despite the presence of a developed project and the seriousness of the attitude to this case, errors still occur that are inherent in a person when building with his own hands.

It is necessary to pay attention to the following points during construction.

It is necessary to correctly plan the size of the interior. A bathhouse for 2-3 people should not be less than 10m2;

An acceptable ceiling height for such a structure is considered to be a height of 2-2.5 m. In the event of a deviation from this figure downwards, visitors will feel discomfort, and if upwards, heat carriers will be overrun;

It is recommended to choose the materials used for the construction of a bath in the country house or in a personal plot from among light and energy-saving ones.

Particular attention should be paid to the basic bath equipment. It should not only look beautiful, but also meet all safety standards for this kind of structures.

Photo of a bath at a summer cottage

What could be more pleasant than after the work performed at the summer cottage to take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your body and soul? Of course, a chic bathhouse with a pool in the country is a luxury that is unaffordable for many, so you should take a closer look at the projects of small structures and build what you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of funds and getting the maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bath can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam / gas / cinder blocks, bricks, or folded from a log or bar. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Material	Brand / model / type / grade	Size / section, mm	Price in rubles
	M150	250*120*65	RUB 16.90 per piece (on a pallet 240 pieces)
	First grade	100*100*6000	Price for 1 m3 from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
	First grade	150*150*6000	RUB 5500-6900 for 1 cubic meter.
	First grade	40*100*6000	RUB 7,500 for 1 m3
	2,3 grade	40*150*6000	RUB 5500 for 1 m3
	-	9*1250*2500	548
	-	12*1250*2500	802
	-	60*250*50	RUB 40 per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy baths project

Having looked at the prices for materials, you will notice that it is more profitable to build a bath from blocks or using Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used second-hand or low-grade (for example, instead of edged boards, you can use unedged ones, adding color to a summer cottage). More accurate data on material consumption can be obtained after drawing up a project and an estimate.

It is extremely important, before starting construction, to think over the project of the bath, calculate the amount of materials, mark all dimensions and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furnishings in them.

Shelf device in the steam room Choosing the size of the bath

The main room in any, even the smallest, bath is the steam room. There are necessarily two or three storey shelves and a heater. Even if the summer cottage is small, and the bathhouse is planned to be very modest, the steam room cannot be made with an area of ​​3-4 square meters, based on the simultaneous stay of two people (visitors should be comfortable to steam with brooms, sit and lie on the shelves in full growth). Such standards are due to safety considerations (in a very cramped steam room, it is easy to burn yourself on a hot stove or scald your skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is completely in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of ​​the room by another 1-2 meters, so that it is convenient to store and throw firewood into the firebox. Immediately in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet with dimensions of 1x1 m must be laid, which is also noted on the plan of the future bath.

The bath will certainly provide for water procedures, respectively, you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and the washroom are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewage outlets, interior partitions.

The last important bath room is a dressing room or dressing room. Benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, perhaps a small table should fit here. It is also possible and preferable to have the heater located in the steam room and the loading door to the dressing room, which saves on heating costs.

In the economy bath, you can do without:

• plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and manually bring water in buckets;
• separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken out on the street or in the country house, if the bathhouse in the country house will be used only in the warm season.

But you can't do without electricity and sewerage, so it is advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage pit, as well as extend the power line to the construction site of the bath, because it is very inconvenient to steam by candlelight.

Be sure to indicate on the plan diagram:

• dimensions of the building and each room separately;
• the height of the ceilings and the total height of the bath;
• the location of the oven;
• the sides into which the doors will open, including the furnace;
• the location of the windows (in the steam room, the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
• location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (only products with a moisture protection level above IP54 are used).

Several projects of small one-story summer cottages are proposed below.

Video - Designing a bath

Video - Bath project. Drafting

Construction of a small frame economy bath in the country

Let's start with the base of the bath - the foundation. Since the bath will be small and relatively light, there is no need to fill in a monolithic slab or make a recessed reinforced tape. For a one-story bath, a columnar foundation made of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Markup

This stage is required for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bathhouse will be located.

We take 4 pegs and a plumb line. We drive the first stake strictly vertically into the soil, that is, mark the first corner of the house. From this point we postpone the length of one of the walls, score the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

We put the third stake and the fourth in the same way. We check the equality of the diagonals of the marking, if necessary, correct the stakes and the cord.

We also mark with a cord the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the rags. We align the bottom of the resulting base horizontally, tamp it.

Video - Conducting foundation marking

Stage 2. Foundation

Consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 40 cm.Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles per piece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is about half a meter. The holes should be located in the corners of the house, under the load-bearing walls and interior partitions.

We ram the bottom of each hole, sprinkle it with a layer of sand, rubble (each layer up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Pour the crushed stone with liquid cement milk. We stick one steel bar strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the bar, 2 pcs. in each row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the soil. Check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for unevenness with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Frame of the economy bath

For the frame, you can use a beam of 100 * 100 cm or 150 * 150 cm. You should not save on load-bearing elements. It is also desirable to impregnate wood with a fire retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 beams.

Connection of corners by the method "in a paw" or "in a half-tree".

Joining the beams of the lower strapping

On the reinforcing rods protruding from the corner posts, we cut the threads (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut off). At the ends of the bars we drill holes for these pins. We cut out the ends of the beams according to the diagram below.

We collect the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten horizontal lintels from a 50x50 mm bar with self-tapping screws. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs from a board of 50x100 mm.

It remains to make the top harness. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we fasten to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beams

Stage 4. Gender

Consider an example of arranging a non-leaking floor in a bath. In order not to waste time on cutting lumber, we take fixing perforated corners, self-tapping screws and collect floor logs. We put boards 50x100 cm between the beams of the lower harness on the edge, we maintain a distance between the logs of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor slab from the plank in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

The floor logs can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boards from which the logs are made. A hole must be provided in the subfloor for mounting a drain from a washing or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Izospan or another vapor barrier under the wooden sub-floor.

To insulate the floor, over the subfloor, we again fasten the logs, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire "pie" with a waterproofing film and collect the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles per sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of foam as insulation, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making the roof, we assemble the upper floor (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor log.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bathhouse outwardly more attractive, and the space under the roof can easily be converted into a sleeping place or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, less materials are needed for a shed structure.

Templates for sawing rafters, racks, floor logs

Table. Types of roofs, schemes

Roof type, illustration	Dignity	Description
Flat or single slope	Saving materials, ease of assembly, the ability to operate the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The overlap is organized from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. The laying step is from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous lathing without gaps is assembled from an edged board or OSB, then a lathing is mounted for insulation - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. On top of the insulation, several layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid. The roof itself can be organized from a profiled sheet, boards treated with an antiseptic, etc.
Gable. Suitable for baths with an area> 12 sq. M.	Possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for an overnight stay. The roof is stable and durable	The angle of inclination of the roof is selected from 30 to 45 degrees, depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the upper harness and the Mauerlat must be made of timber. Roof trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang for a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are cut according to a template, assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The first to fasten the outer trusses on the pediments, then with an interval of up to one and a half meters - the rest of the rafters. On top of the rafters, a crate from a rail or board is stuffed, a vapor barrier is stretched, after which the roofing material is fixed, for example, a profiled sheet.

Video - Roof construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior finishing

Table. A brief description of the stages of warming, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Styrofoam will provide the walls of the bath with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation, we use polyurethane foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam according to the distance between the frame posts, insert the foam between them, foam the cracks. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger than the existing openings in order to avoid cracks.
		We use slats 2x5 cm. We fix them horizontally. We fix it with self-tapping screws for wood. The distance between the slats is taken equal to the width of the insulation.
		Place mineral wool slabs between the battens. We pull a polypropylene cord over the mats, fix it with small nails or a stapler.
		From the outside, the bath can be upholstered with OSB-3 sheets, which can be plaster or painted later. An unedged board or siding finish is also an acceptable option.
		On the outside of the bath, under a layer of finishing material, we fasten a windproof film with an overlap (glassine can be used). From the inside, on the walls and ceiling, we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallized tape.
Internal cladding		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in the steam room. In the dressing room, it is permissible to sheathe the walls with PVC panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard, and then paint.
External cladding		Many interesting materials are used as external cladding, for example, shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden planks that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (upper to lower). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Step 7. Ventilation

An economy bath is probably a compact room, but this does not exclude the need to ventilate it.

The opening for the air intake is traditionally arranged near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with the insulation and decoration of the walls. The air flow from the supply ventilation duct must fall on the heating element of the oven. It is especially important to equip effective ventilation if the firebox door does not go into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. The air outlet is organized through a ventilation pipe to the roof, the head of the pipe is closed with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above floor level. Ventilation will take place with an open window and room doors.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Bath fan prices

bath fan

Stage 8. Equipping the bath

Having assembled a bath with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and a remote water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, cover it with a steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal stove, the floor structure of 150x50 mm logs with a step of 45-50 cm and a 5 cm thick floorboard will perfectly withstand the heater.

The electrical wiring in the bath is laid either before the finishing of the walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed strictly waterproof, class above IP 54. It is imperative to install a separate electrical panel and protect all cables from moisture.

Asbestos cardboard prices

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

Very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel-bath is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, inside it is divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The bath is mobile, takes up little space, is economical and economical (very little fuel is needed to warm up a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel saunas cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bath on your own, it takes half the money and not a lot of effort and time.

Assembly-disassembly of the bath is possible due to the used boards 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a thorn-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The fixation of the structure is carried out with metal hoop-ties. Additionally, the bathhouse can be equipped with a porch, roof, visor.

The water in the barrel bath is drained through the holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bath in the country, it is worth removing the soil layer, filling it with rubble, tamping it, and installing the bath itself on a pair of stable massive concrete blocks. The rules for installing a stove, laying electrical wiring are standard for any type of wooden baths, including economy class.

You can build a Russian bath with your own hands from beginning to end, independently mount windows and doors, put your own assembled wooden font, furniture. But first, you need to competently raise the log house, lay the floor, sew up the ceiling, build a stove. Studying step-by-step instructions and professional advice will help with this.

Russian bath: features of its action

The body temperature of a person does not exceed 40 °, because he sweats, due to which he gives off excess heat to the surrounding air with the release of excess liquid. This is the basis of the principle of operation of any type of bath. The differences are only in the ratio of temperature and humidity.

In a Turkish bath (hammam), the humidity reaches 100%, and the temperature of the air, stone floor and benches does not exceed 40 °. In a sauna (Finnish bath), this ratio is completely opposite. At 120 ° the humidity is only 40%.

But the combination of temperature and humidity that is optimal for health (and there will be no negative consequences from such a procedure) can be maintained only in a Russian bath, but only if it is correctly designed and built.

The bath cannot be called a cheap pleasure. If you order its turnkey construction, the amount can be overwhelming. With average prices for materials and work of specialists, you will have to pay from 7 to 22 thousand dollars. The simplest bathhouse can be built on your own, significantly saving money.

The device of a steam Russian bath

Russian baths, as close as possible to traditional ones, are returning to fashion. They have their own characteristics:

• foundation - boulder stone, which does not require a base;
• walls - log house, wild, debarked and dried, selectively chopped logs that have not undergone any other processing;
• assembly without metal parts such as nails or corners;
• caulking with natural materials such as tow and moss;
• insulation with natural materials, for example, peat or moss;
• waterproofing - natural resin;
• roof - tattered, sod or shingle;
• the oven must be made of stone;
• a font - a barrel, a pool (you can always run out into the street and plunge into a river, lake or rub yourself with snow).

All this creates a lot of unnecessary difficulties, the bath itself as a whole is flammable and short-lived. But there is every opportunity to independently build a bathhouse with the same qualities, but much more practical, modern. It is recommended to make a bathhouse not only with a steam room, but also a washing room, where there is a font, a tub for bathing or showers, and a dressing room.

Dressing room

They undress in it, store towels, sheets, gangs and brooms, rest between visits to the steam room, drink tea. This room serves as a barrier to cold air. There is a window (for security reasons, and for beauty).

Steam room

It has a heater with a water tank and built beds or shelves for lying. The furnace provides uniform strong heating and exposure to superheated steam without convective mixing of the air. There may be a small ventilation window in the steam room, which will help to avoid waterlogging (for the same purpose, one or two ventilation holes can be made).

Washing room

Heat is supplied to this room from the back of the oven. After visiting the steam room, it is necessary to cool off in the font or under the shower, thereby removing toxins and toxins from the body. At the same time, sweating does not stop, but due to high humidity it also intensifies. The washing room is similar in principle to a hammam.

Preparation for construction

In a small area, you can build a small bathhouse, which can comfortably fit three to four people.

Seat selection

If the site is small, then you don't have to choose much. But if it is spacious, then there is an opportunity to use all possible advantages.

The simplest and cheapest foundation can be limited if the site has good solid soil and deep groundwater. The bathhouse should not stand close to the well, since it is considered a source of pollution, the house (so that moisture from the drain does not damage the foundation), a toilet and a compost pit (so as not to erode their contents).

The choice of material for the walls

Although a bathhouse can now be built from anything, for example, brick, polystyrene concrete, aerated concrete, expanded clay or foam blocks, there are physical laws that confirm the appropriateness of the conservative practice of our ancestors. And all due to the fact that it heats up a lot, and then cools down, high humidity is created in it, and after airing the room, it dries quickly. Blocks and bricks in this mode must have a special multi-layer cladding.

The tree, on the other hand, may not have any veneer. In addition, it is this material that, when warmed up, gives an exceptionally healthy and beneficial heat. Therefore, for aesthetic and practical reasons, it is recommended to dwell on it.

Choice of wood species

The intensity of the steam depends on the wood from which the walls of the steam room are made:

1. Linden with its low heat capacity gives light, non-load steam. In such a bath, the air is always hotter than the walls, and besides, they are very useful. But you won't find lime logs anymore, they are practically not harvested.
2. Oak with a high heat capacity gives a "vigorous" steam, hard to bear. Plus the walls add temperature. Oak logs are incredibly expensive, so they are usually used only as lower crowns.
3. The best option is conifers. The heat from the walls and the air in such baths is about the same. In addition, the material is quite affordable. The best coniferous tree for a bathhouse is larch, but you will have to fork out to buy it. If this is not possible, then a pine or spruce will do.

What you need to look for when buying wood:

How to choose the right type of lumber

Glued imitations are suitable for any building, except for a bath. The lamellas from which the timber (or log) is made, warp and deform from the temperature.

Solid timber can be profiled or ordinary edged. The main disadvantage of the second type is frequent warping as a result of air drying. Profiled timber is expensive, besides, not every one is suitable for the construction of a bath, for example, material with recesses at the top is not suitable due to the collection of condensate in them.

Therefore, most often it is a log that is used for the construction of a bath. Raw, or wild, is difficult to buy. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a rounded log: it is well dried, even. It should not have radial cracks, as condensation accumulates in them, and this leads to decay. Likewise, it should not have cuts in the upper part. For cutting into a bowl, the log must have a so-called moon groove at the bottom.

In advance, you need to choose a felling method. There are several options for decorating the ends of the logs and collecting them into a structure:

• "Into the bowl";
• "In the paw";
• canadian cabin.

How to make a drawing of a bath

Since the length of a rounded log is 6 meters, it would be logical to take this into account when designing a bath, making its side exactly like this. The building should have a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and an oven. The height of the bath is usually determined solely by the possibilities, but traditionally it should be 220 or 230 cm from floor to ceiling.

Coordination of the project in the administrative authorities

This is a key step. Without the approval of the project before the start of construction, an already built bathhouse can be demolished due to any complaint from neighbors, and you will lose the invested labor and money. The project should include the following points:

Approximate calculation of the material

To carry out the calculation, you need to take into account what diameter the log will have. For a bath, a larger one is better, but it is more expensive. The optimal diameter is 280 mm. The cost of 1 m 3 of such logs with cups is on average about 8 thousand rubles.

Now you need to determine the height of the pediment. For this, it is recommended to focus on natural conditions. With a large amount of precipitation, the pediment should be high, and the roof should be steep so that the snow does not linger badly on it, and in case of strong winds, on the contrary, so as not to create excessive windage. The average is the height of the pediment equal to 1.5 m.

Photo gallery: drawings of a log house and necessary parameters

Top view and section parameters of logs A drawing of a log house will help in filling out the initial data To calculate the amount of material, you must fill in all the initial data A special calculator can help in the calculation. All values ​​can be entered into a special table

What tool do you need

To build a bath with your own hands you need:

• electric saw;
• grinder with a set of discs;
• drill with various drills and grinding nozzles;
• planer, jointer (or electrical analogs);
• axes;
• scrap, crowbar;
• pliers, nail puller;
• bayonet and shovel;
• hydro level;
• hammers;
• mallet;
• bit;
• a set of chisels;
• files;
• caulk tool;
• tape measure and carpentry meter;
• buckets;
• wheelbarrow;
• stairs;
• construction goats;
• container for concrete or construction mixer.

Now you can start directly with the construction.

DIY step-by-step instructions for building from scratch

All work can be conditionally divided into stages that follow each other. Between some of them it is necessary to make a certain time interval.

Foundation construction

First you need to select its type:

1. The foundation is made of natural boulders. Large stones with a cruciform notch are specially selected in the corners.
2. Shallow or shallow strip foundation. Marking is made on the ground, a trench of the required width and depth is dug, formwork is made, filled with mortar, covered with film, dries. Advantages - comparative lightness and low cost of the structure. Disadvantage - can not be used on unreliable soils with close groundwater, clay and sandy.
3. On unreliable soils and on a slope, it is recommended to install a columnar pile foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes concreted into the soil with a stone filler. Advantages - resistance to subsidence and soil creep. The disadvantage is that it is more difficult to insulate the underground.
4. Metal welded pile-grillage foundation. Dignity is beauty and functionality. Disadvantage - it requires special equipment for manufacturing.
5. The best foundation for a small bath is an unburied columnar one. It is made of ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400 mm in size. Advantages - ease of construction, low cost, versatility for any soil. There are no downsides.

Waterproofing and foundation lathing

All types of foundations, except for boulder ones, need waterproofing between. Usually they do it with roofing material or bitumen.

The lathing with thin slats on top of the waterproofing is needed to prevent capillary seepage of moisture into the frame. However, the columnar block foundation does not need it.

Drainage system device

This stage takes place immediately after the foundation, before the construction of the log house, simultaneously with the insulation of the subfloor.

In the old baths, the drain went straight through the plank floor to the ground, so the building was placed on a natural slope. Now such a drain is prohibited, but the idea itself can be used both in the steam room and in the washing room. It is recommended to organize the drain through the entire floor or to collect it at one point, where to install the grate-ladder. But the first option will be more environmentally friendly.

Important! In no case should the bath drain be connected to a common septic tank, it will simply choke due to volley discharges. You need to dig a separate drain hole.

The subfloor is preliminarily insulated with expanded clay, then a concrete screed is made under a slope. This work can only be done in the summer, as concrete will not be strong if it is poured in the cold. The cement is mixed with the addition of a water-polymer emulsion (at the rate of 200 ml per 10 liters of concrete). The dried and already hardened foundation is coated with bituminous mastic, then kept for a week. It is advisable to build a primitive odor trap that can eliminate unpleasant odors.

Features of the floor in the bath

It cannot be rigidly connected with a log house. The ends of the logs, on which the floor is laid with slots, are led into the slots of the lower crown. It is advisable to make lags from tar. The floor can be with slots or with a ladder. In the vestibule, it is always solid. It is recommended to use a tongue-and-groove plank for the floor.

Raising a log house

It is placed sequentially, each crown is fixed with dowels - round dowels (preferably oak). Through the log, through and through, a hole is drilled for fasteners half the thickness of the previous one. Take it off. Put caulk. Insert the dowel, piercing the caulk with it. The upper log is strung onto the dowel. Repeat staggered.

Do not forget to take out a piece of log in those places where there should be openings for windows and doors on their upper side.

Between the logs, hemp is laid in a stretch, and then the finished log house is caulked with a cord.

Residential buildings are insulated with synthetic waterproofing agents, but this is not suitable for a bath. Jute will replace traditional moss and hemp. It literally fuses with the tree and seals the room perfectly. This hemp is sold in sets (tape and cord).

Do not forget about the so-called technological break. The finished frame is sewn up from above with any auxiliary material up to cardboard, and covered with a film for drying and shrinking. The process can take from six months to one and a half years. Only after this period is it possible to continue construction.

Cutting openings for doors and windows

The openings are cut down from the marks left with mandatory control of the hydraulic level. The scraps will go to the ceiling and furniture. You can immediately make a window on the doorway. Since the blockhouse "walks" constantly, an ordinary door frame will not withstand the changing load. There is a special technology by which only vertical parts are fixed, which neutralizes its deformation. To do this, a hole is marked for the door along the hydraulic level or plumb line, the tree is taken out according to the intended profile. The height of the opening should be 5–7 cm larger than the door, so that there is room for deformation. It is then recommended to lay this gap with tow, and then close it with a platband. The edges of the logs are undercut so that the platbands can be fixed.

What should be the ceiling

It is recommended to stop at a false ceiling due to its strength and economy. This structure consists of beams connected with a log house, which also serve as rafters. After the construction of the ceiling, it is caulked with jute, covered with roofing material and insulated with mineral wool.

Roof installation

The roof is suitable for a gable. The rafters are mounted from a bar.

All work takes place in several steps:

1. First, the central posts are placed at the height of the pediment.
2. Then the ridge and rafters are mounted, a light crate.
3. A covering is put on it. For a bath, it is better to use traditional materials for the roof, for example, metal tiles, corrugated board, galvanized iron, slate. Surprisingly, the most durable and stylish coating is shingle. But if earlier it was material for the poor, now it is not at all like that.

Exterior and interior decoration

If the frame was correctly raised, it had a bottom time for shrinkage, then no interior wall decoration would be needed.

Doors and windows

You can buy these parts or make your own (from grooved boards with dowels).

Installation should be carried out according to the following plan:

1. A door frame with a door is inserted into the finished window.
2. The vertical is adjusted, verified along the hydro level. Fixed with self-tapping screws.
3. The upper slot is laid with tow, pushed around the perimeter of the door, if necessary, and platbands are mounted on both sides of the door.
4. Handles and locks are installed.

Bath furniture

Bath furniture is for a steam room (shelves) and a washing room with a dressing room (benches, table).

The shelves are different in width. It depends on personal preference, although there are some design traditions that allow you to calculate the minimum size suitable for a person of average height and build. It is customary to increase the average sizes to comfortable ones.

The minimum distance from the shelves to the ceiling should be at least 110 cm. In such a bath, you will not overheat on the upper tier, while there will be enough space to sit or lie with your legs raised. There are people who love to wave a broom very actively. Then it makes sense to leave more space at the top (up to 1.5 m). The lower tier is traditionally located no lower than 30 cm from the floor of the steam room.

It would be advisable to make the shelves not from pine, but from linden, since it has a lower thermal conductivity, moreover, it does not emit resin. The frame can be made from a bar, then sheathed it with prepared boards.

Even at the construction stage, it is necessary to use modern impregnating compounds that can withstand high temperatures and humidity without harming human health. So you can protect the building from fungus and rot. Those that are suitable for the ceiling may not always be used for covering furniture.

Manufacturers of varnishes and paints (Senezh, Empils, Rogneda, Dulux, Tikkurila, Nobel, Belinka, Teknos) produce many such products with water-repellent natural substances such as paraffin, wax, oil. They are divided into those suitable for external walls, internal surfaces to which a person does not touch the body (ceiling) and furniture.

Pyro-protective and antiseptic impregnation of logs is usually done at the timber processing plant, but it must be carried out again after construction.

The first application of the compositions to furniture is carried out immediately after its manufacture on a dry and clean surface, or even before manufacture (on wooden blanks). Spread the product evenly with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Due to the thick consistency, the spray gun will not work.

How to build a stove in a sauna

For all sauna stoves there is a single condition, the fulfillment of which is mandatory - lengthening the combustion channel so that the door is in the dressing room (firewood is put into it in that particular room).

You can put a metal stove by buying it ready-made, or fold a brick one yourself (it is much better due to its slower heating and prolonged heat release). The most difficult thing in this case will be to correctly remove the chimney through the wooden roof, insulating it with special metal sheets and vermiculite.

The stones must be chosen as carefully as possible. They must have the following qualities:

• heat resistance (not destroyed by temperature drops);
• heat capacity (give off heat for a long time);
• environmental friendliness (when heated, they do not emit harmful substances);
• homogeneity and the same coefficient of thermal expansion (foreign inclusions with a different thermal expansion can explode when heated);
• round shape (it improves the hot air circulation process).

The stones must be:

• up to 13 cm for the first layer on the wire rack;
• up to 9 for an intermediate layer;
• up to 6 for the top layer.

When done correctly, the stove will create unforgettable steam moments.

Features of operation

Only the steam room provides the healthiest and the only correct ratio of humidity and heat. But even there there are extreme values. This is also scientifically supported. The best feeling for a given combination of humidity and temperature is graphically expressed by the homothermal curve. Below the first of the curves is the optimal combination of temperature up to 90 ° and humidity up to 80%, which is provided by a Russian steam bath.

While in the steam room, hot humid air is poured over the body, especially when exposed to it with a broom, due to which everything heats up. In this case, there is a constant flow of oxygen to the tissues.

After being in the steam room, you need to plunge into the ice plunge pool.

Video: building a bath from a log

Steam in a Russian bath trains blood vessels, increases immunity, reduces weight and pleases the soul. And if it is also built with your own hands, then the pleasure increases many times over.