Do-it-yourself roof drainage installation. How to install roof drips correctly? Made of plastic or polymers

The main purpose of the element is to drain water from window panes, prevent moisture from entering the window sill and window frame. If moisture gets into these places, then the processes of accelerated destruction begin building materials: the plaster of the facade walls falls off, the window structures become unusable. If the walls are sheathed, then the problems are even greater. except protective function ebb serve additional element decoration of facades, they acquire a finished look, structures window openings look organic.

Ebb tides can be installed both during the construction of buildings before the completion of the facade walls, and after the start of operation. The first option is better - there is an opportunity to use full complex special measures to seal all joints and seams and do it with minimal loss of money and time. In the second case, the technology becomes somewhat more complicated, but this does not have a noticeable effect on the quality and cost of work.

Today, ebb tides are made from two materials, each of which has its own pros and cons.

Materials (edit)	Description
	Most often used. Most cheap option- galvanized steel, more expensive - zinc coating is additionally painted with multi-colored polymer paints. A wide range of paints makes it possible to solve design problems. Metal sills have no restrictions on use, they are installed on plastic and wooden windows... Houses can be timber, brick or block houses. The service life of high-quality metal castings is at least fifty years. Metal ebbs are technologically advanced, during installation there is no need to use complex tools. If you wish, you can make them yourself.
	Modern ebbs are most often used in conjunction with plastic windows. Made of modified, sun-resistant plastic. Modern plastics grades increase their resistance to the negative effects of hard UV radiation. Although resilience is increasing, destruction is still taking place slowly. Intermolecular bonds are broken, the material loses its plasticity and becomes brittle, under dynamic loads, through cracks may appear. In addition, the formation of microcracks is inevitable, dust accumulates in them over time, mosses and lichens begin to grow. Despite the promises of the manufacturers, real time exploitation rarely exceeds thirty years.

The advantages of metal castings are durability, versatility and a wide selection of color solutions... Disadvantage - low mechanical strength, it is undesirable to walk on them, especially if the base is not prepared correctly.

Plastic moldings can withstand relatively high static loads, but are used only in combination with metal-plastic windows... At a cost, metal is slightly cheaper.

Plastic drip - photo

General requirements for the installation of ebbs

Structures have one unpleasant feature - the consequences of improper installation are discovered late, and it will take quite a long time to eliminate them. Sometimes it is necessary to repair the finishing coat of the facade walls. To prevent this from happening, you should adhere to a few simple rules.

Take the maximum possible measures to seal all joints, special attention should be paid to the places of abutment to window frame and side slopes.

Important. Sealants should be used as additional way sealing, and not basic, their service life is limited to several years. In the future, the sealants peel off, water penetrates into the cracks. Peeling occurs due to unfavorable conditions exploitation. The main measures to eliminate leaks - construction technologies... Which ones - we will indicate in the step-by-step installation instructions.

The low tide should be at least two centimeters wider than the slope. The water from the glass should not immediately fall on the wall.

Achieve the most even position of the ebb tide horizontally. If it is installed at an angle or has uneven surface, then streaks of water accumulate in one place and traces form on the wall. When it rains, drops of water should drip evenly along the entire length of the low tide. This will reduce the degree of wetting, the wall will dry out much faster.

Make a solid and even cement-sand base at low tide. Now it is fashionable to use polyurethane foam: the ebb is exposed in several places with wedges, the free space is foamed. It's fast, cheap, but wrong. Windows in any building should be periodically cleaned with outside... Often they become feet at low tide, and no foam can withstand such loads. If you see that hired craftsmen are doing hack-work, make the work redo.

The side faces of the ebb must necessarily be located under the trim of the slopes. If the slopes are made of plaster, you need to cut into it by about a centimeter. Do not rely on the use of sealant to avoid leaks. We have already mentioned that the term of its use in such difficult conditions is very short. We will describe how to make a tie-in later in the installation instructions.

It is difficult to install ebb tides on the windows of the second and higher floors, it is necessary to collect scaffolding or completely remove the sashes. Do the work so that later you do not have to eliminate the marriage, do not rush, carry out all construction operations.

Prices for metal ebb

Metallic ebb

Step-by-step instructions for installing a metal ebb

The metal ebb can be ordered or made by yourself. We will describe below how to make the structure ourselves, and for example we will use a custom-made element. For the initial data, we will take the following indicators: an outflow from sheet steel, a brick house with cement-sand plaster. The ebb is installed on the plastered slopes.

For work, you will need scissors for metal, if they are not there, then the use of a grinder is allowed. In addition, you need to have a square, a marker (a pencil on metal draws very badly), a tape measure, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you need to prepare a cement-sand base, then prepare construction tools.

Step 1. Check the condition of the lower outer slope. If it does not meet the above conditions, then you will have to plaster. Use ordinary cement-sand mortar or adhesive for ceramic tiles. Glue can only be leveled slight irregularities, and plastering solution is used if the place is not prepared at all. During operation, keep the slope within 10 °.

How to make a slope?

1. Throw in a layer of mortar, about 1 cm thicker than necessary. Remember to wet the surfaces of the bricks before plastering.
2. Using a spirit level on the fresh plaster, make indentations at the desired angle. Press it into the mass, watch the scale readings. Grooves should be made along the edges and in the middle of the slope.
3. As an equal rule, gradually remove the excess mass, control the position of the tool along the grooves made.
4. Smooth the surfaces thoroughly with a trowel. Continue installing the ebb after the mass has hardened.

Step 2. Take off the dimensions of the ebb for ordering. It should be several centimeters longer and wider than the slope.

Step 3. Measure the slope parameters and transfer them to low tide.

Unfortunately, plastic drips cannot be installed in such a reliable way. They are mounted end-to-end, the place of contact is sealed with a sealant. The ends are muffled with special inserts.

Step 4. Fix the bend of the ebb to the window frame with self-tapping screws. There are special grooves on the frames, make sure that the edges of the bend do not go beyond them, the bend of the ebb should be located in the groove.

Installing an ebb tide. Last fit and fit

If the metal ebbs are more than one and a half meters long, then you can use liquid nails during installation, lubricate the surface of the base and then put the ebb in place.

Making a metal ebb with your own hands

Metal ebb tides can be made by yourself, they do not have much design complexity.

How to make them?

Step 1. Buy a sheet of galvanized steel within 0.5mm thickness. Pay attention to the quality of galvanizing, the layer thickness must be at least 40 microns, the surface is uniform in appearance, sagging and gaps are prohibited.

Prices for galvanized steel sheets

Galvanized steel sheet

Step 2. Measure the length and width of the workpiece, taking into account the folds. Leave about two centimeters on the hem along the entire perimeter. Take the length with a margin, better then cut off the excess than throw away the ebb.

Step 3. Transfer the measurements taken to an iron sheet. For drawing, it is better to use an ordinary felt-tip pen, the lines from the pencil are poorly visible. Use ordinary markers, do not use waterproof ones. The visible marking lines then need to be removed, there will be problems with waterproof dyes. The sheet should have a bend line for installation under the window frame and a bend line of the protruding part of the ebb. It is better to cut with scissors for metal, in extreme cases with a grinder. After the grinder, the burrs must be removed from the cut line.

Step 4. Place the sheet on a flat edge of the table, press on it with one hand, do not allow vibration. With your other hand, gently bend it, tapping on the sheet with any piece of the board. There is a mallet - excellent, it is easier to work with it.

Practical advice. To increase the rigidity, you can make a drip. It not only improves the ebb but also drains water further away from the wall. Dripper - additional Z-shaped bend along the lower edge of the low tide.

Bend the metal slowly, start at one edge and gradually work towards the opposite. The sheet should bend in a wave. Do not try to bend right away from the middle, irregularities will appear. Apply blows from top to bottom, part of the plane of the mallet should bend the metal, and the second part at the same time hit the edge of the table. Bend about 30 ° the first time, until right angle you need to make several passes along the line back and forth. The more passes, the smoother the bend of the sheet.

It is not difficult to learn how to bend the sheet metal; after a few centimeters, experience appears. If you are concerned, practice on unnecessary pieces of galvanized steel. You will be able to control the strength, direction and frequency of impacts, the bend will turn out to be even. In terms of quality, it, of course, is somewhat inferior to a sheet bending machine, but you have the opportunity not only to save on cost, but also to make ebbs of your own sizes separately for each window.

Video - Installing window tides

Answers on questions

How to correctly measure the base of the ebb?

First, do not worry too much, the accuracy of removal can be plus or minus a few millimeters.

Secondly, sizing is pretty simple:

• measure the width of the low tide at the junction with the window frame;
• attach the square to the frame and measure the small leg of the first corner in centimeters, do the same with the second corner;
• add to the length of the ebb and the frame of the window the sum of the legs, this will be the length of the ebb without bends or cut into the plaster;
• add about two centimeters to this value if you will bend the edges and overlap the side slopes plaster and by a centimeter if you will make a tie-in.

How to fold the edges of ebb tides?

There are several ways, each of them gives a good result.

And one more practical advice... In order for the ebb to bend more easily, and the line turns out to be even, push the groove on the back side. Place the sheet on a flat surface, press a shallow groove under the ruler with a metal object. Make sure that the zinc coating is not damaged. But even if it gets scratched, it's not a problem. The line will always be on the opposite side of the ebb and moisture does not get on it.

Prices for bending machines

Bending machine

What are the features of installing metal sills on wooden houses?

The difference is one, but fundamental. If on stone walls a cement mixture is used as a base, then for wooden ones you need to do supporting frame from bars. In some cases, several strips of various thicknesses, laid along the window opening, are sufficient. They are fixed to the bars with nails. To prevent snow from falling under the ebb and to strengthen the fixation to the wall, it is recommended to use foam. Before foaming, press down the ebb from above, choose a load such that it does not bend the iron and at the same time does not allow the foam to raise the ebb.

How to connect two short sheets?

This is another way to reduce the cost of metal casting. There are two ways, choose the best one for yourself.

1.By soldering.

For galvanized steel, ordinary solders are not suitable, they either do not etch the zinc coating or etch very slowly. You will need a large soldering iron of at least 200W, the more the better.

For soldering galvanized sheets, you will have to use hydrochloric acid. Ordinary solders are unsuitable for iron, they cannot remove the zinc coating, you need to use concentrated acid.

Work with it carefully, do not let the chemical liquid get on the mucous membranes. As soon as a nuisance occurs, rinse immediately with running water.

Important. During the boiling of the acid, very corrosive vapors are released into the air. Work only outdoors, be sure to wear respiratory protection.

Always make a seam from the front side of the ebb, a gap is visible from the back. If in doubt about the strength of the adhesion, turn the sheet over reverse side and re-weld the seam. The acid etches zinc to iron, due to this preparation, the metal is combined at the molecular level. After finishing work, the surfaces must be washed in water with baking soda thus the acid is neutralized. It is recommended to rinse the clean outflow again in running water.

2. With a lock.

The lock can be cut with scissors for metal, enlarged sheets are used to make large-sized castings.

Video - How to sew two sheets of galvanized iron without a machine

As you can see, you can do everything with your own hands, but only if there are two conditions: you need to have a desire and at least minimal knowledge. Do not be afraid, try to do, practical experience will not replace anything.

Video - Installing an ebb for a window

Manufacturing and installation of drips protects window openings from the harmful effects of atmospheric phenomena, such as rain, snow and condensation that forms on the glass due to the difference between internal and external temperatures. Ebb windows take on a finished look, complementing decoration exterior of the building.

Types of window sills, classification by materials

An improperly selected material for the manufacture of ebb tides can cause a number of undesirable consequences, such as smudges on the facade of a building, partial destruction of window slopes, peeling of the ebb coating, followed by corrosion.

To do right choice, it is necessary to have an idea of ​​which products are more preferable in each particular case. The modern market offers the following varieties.

Galvanized ebb

When using this option for window drainage, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the zinc coating, which should be uniform and of sufficient thickness. Otherwise, atmospheric influences will lead to rapid corrosion and subsequent destruction of the ebb.

The thickness of the galvanized steel used for fabrication also matters. Products that are too thin are more susceptible to deformation and create more noise, as they react to even minor gusts of wind. Excessively massive products should not be used, due to their unreasonably high price and unwanted loads on the window sill area of ​​the facade. Most often, a material with a thickness of 0.3 to 0.5 mm is used.

Positive qualities of galvanized castings:

• low cost;
• availability of self-made profile;
• can be used on any windows.

Aluminum window drip

These are slugs made of aluminum or its alloys. For production, sheet metal with a thickness of 1–2 mm is used. Depending on the manufacturer, such window sills can have a single color polymer coating or a coating that imitates natural materials(stone, wood). Anodizing of the surface is also used to decorate and protect the drainage profile from atmospheric influences.

Aluminum window sill is a high-quality, expensive product, resistant to mechanical stress and designed for long-term use in different climatic conditions. Their disadvantages include the relatively high cost and, characteristic of all metal products, noise during rain or hail.

Plastic drip for windows

The use of plastic sills on the windows is the most practical and aesthetically sound option. They are durable, unpretentious in maintenance, do not corrode, have a presentable appearance and are easy to install. It is especially appropriate to use polyvinyl chloride drains to drain water from plastic windows.

Laminated window sills

This is a metal profile covered with a decorative film. For the manufacture of such products, galvanized steel is used, which is first coated with polymer paint, after which it is wrapped with a film. The service life of laminated ebbs directly depends on the quality of galvanizing, the integrity of the film and the professionalism of the work preceding its gluing.

Epoxy resin drips for windows

This is a window drain made of epoxy resin, fiberglass reinforced or other fibrous filler such as carbon fiber. Resistant to mechanical damage and aggressive influences environment... Products made from epoxy resin do not tend to create noise during rain or guard: fiberglass perfectly absorbs sound.

Disadvantages:

• relatively high cost;
• limited choice of colors (white, black and brown).

The manufacturing technology consists in covering the galvanized metal with a polymer paint composition, which, as a rule, consists of several layers. The quality of the product depends on the thickness of the metal and the materials used for painting.

Such an ebb can be made independently by purchasing a sheet of the corresponding metal, you can buy ready product or order if a suitable size is not available. When installing plastic windows, it is these ebbs that are most often mounted.

Window metal ebb - scheme

Positive traits:

• corrosion resistance;
• relatively low cost;
• ease of installation;
• rich selection of colors.

Disadvantages:

• make noise in the rain;
• require a careful attitude towards themselves, they cannot be walked on, knocked on, they are not resistant to scratches and other harmful influences.

Making a window ebb with your own hands

To ensure the drainage of water from window openings, it is not at all necessary to buy expensive factory-made products. For technical structures and country houses ebb tides are just as necessary as for other buildings, but you can make them yourself. Especially if you have confidence in your own skills, free time and a minimum of tools.

Materials and equipment required for the manufacture of an ebb

• Metal sheet. For independent work it is better to use galvanized steel or metal with polymer coating 0.3-0.5 mm thick.
• Scissors for metal. Will be needed to cut the ebb. If they are not available, you can use a grinder.
• Roulette, square and marker for and marking the material.
• Mallet, pliers.

The process of making a window sill

First you need to measure the width of the opening. This is done with a tape measure. Add 4–5 cm to the resulting size so that it is possible to bend the ebb to the slopes. It is better to make the rough workpiece 2–3 cm larger, the excess can be cut off later, during the installation process.

Then you need to find out the width of the future drainage. To do this, it is necessary to measure the distance from the seat on the window to the edge of the wall and add 3–4 cm to it (low tide overhang) so that the water flows down at some distance from the wall and does not contribute to its premature destruction.

The size obtained in this way will be an even part of the ebb, in addition to it you need to add the width of all bends:

• 15 mm - a shelf that is screwed to the window;
• 25 mm - expanded drip tip (5 mm).

Marking is carried out with a marker, pencil marks on the metal are very poorly visible. The lines should be on the outside of the bend corners so that they can be seen while bending the metal. On the inside of the corner, it is advisable to push the groove with a sharp object. This must be done so as not to damage the polymer coating or the galvanized layer.

It is convenient to bend the metal by clamping it with the help along the bending line between two wooden blocks. If there are no clamps, you can twist the bars around the edges with self-tapping screws so as not to damage the metal. After the sheet is clamped, it is bent in the desired direction with light blows of a rubber hammer or mallet.

Availability bending machine can greatly simplify the process, but not everyone has such a machine.

Installation of a window sill

This procedure assumes the presence of low tide suitable sizes, minimum set tools and materials.

Tools and materials required for installing window drainage:

• scissors for metal or grinder;
• tape measure, marker, square, construction knife;
• building level (water can be used);
• drill or screwdriver;
• polyurethane foam, roofing or silicone sealant;
• you may also need cement mortar and trowel;
• caps on the ends of the ebb.

Drainage installation

The sequence of actions for installing a metal ebb is also suitable for products with a zinc or polymer coating:

• Trim the ebb to size with hem allowance. For example, if the window opening is 90 cm, then the ebb should be cut off 94 cm (2 cm per side).
• From the ends of the drainage, cuts are made by the amount of the allowance (in this example, 2 cm) and bent upwards at right angles.
• An ideal option if the slope processing will be carried out after the installation of the ebb and the bends will subsequently be under a layer of plaster.

If during the operation of the ebb tide there is a possibility that they will walk on it, for example, to wash windows, then to prevent its deformation, the base should be prepared accordingly. This will require a cement-sand mortar. They are brought out the base in such a way that the drainage adjoins it along the entire plane, and if this plane is stepped on, the entire load will be on the cement, and not on a thin metal ebb.

In most cases, no one is involved in such a complex preparation of the foundation. The empty space between the drainage and the bottom of the window opening is filled with polyurethane foam. It is applied in a sufficient layer: one strip directly under the window, the second on the edge of the wall, in the place of the low tide overhang.

Without waiting for solidification polyurethane foam, the ebb is screwed onto self-tapping screws of the "press washer" type. A silicone sealant is pre-applied to the seat.

You need to screw the ebb so that it does not block drain holes at the bottom of the window. The drip must be set clearly in level, this is necessary for uniform water drainage. Otherwise, water will drain from one edge of the low tide, a drip will form on the wall, and finishing material prematurely falls into disrepair and crumbles.

The roof of a house is often compared to an umbrella: the main purpose is to protect against rain and other types of atmospheric moisture. But there is one significant difference, because a solid wall of liquid flows from the umbrella in all directions at once, and from the roof modern home- only in a few specially designated places. The whole secret is in the drainage system!

And there are many subtleties here, because it is important that the entire system not only works, but also does not require constant attention due to breakdowns. Therefore, in this article we will reveal to you all the secrets: how to make ebb tides on the roof with your own hands so that everything in them is thought out to the smallest detail!

The organization of water drainage from the roof of a residential building directly depends on the shape of the roof and

A house without an organized drainage of water: is it real?

Perhaps you have ever thought that it is possible to do without any gutters at all - before in Russia, did they not do without them? Yes, not only, I practice this approach today!

For example, if the house is being built strictly in a certain style, and the drainpipes on it cannot be hidden or adjusted to the selected exterior design in any way. In this case, the builders do everything to rainwater did not harm the building in any way.

For this, the roof is built so that it has a wide canopy and protrudes beyond the front of the wall by at least half a meter. Further on foundation walls vertical insulation is laid, and the foundation itself is a high plinth made of non-moisture-consuming materials, as ceramic tile or stone.

The second step is vertical layout territory so that there is a tangible slope from the house underfoot - so the water will drain freely from the roof and immediately leave the foundation of the house.

Ebb and flow of standard gable roof

Standard ebbs for gable roof consists of the following elements:

In those places where the water flow will be under high pressure (most often under the valley), a limiter is still placed on the gutter or corner of the gutter.

Organization of water drainage from a flat roof

But on the roof flat house the tides look a little different:

In order to organize the drainage of water from a flat roof, first it is equipped with a parapet with a height of 30 to 90 cm, which also serves as a fence. Next, a drain is installed, in most cases an internal one.

Internal drainage is considered to be more reliable, because such a system is almost unaffected by the weather. Installing water intake funnels only on lowered sections of the roof, which is quite logical. If your roof is up to 150 m 2, then put two funnels: a standard one with a riser and an emergency one that will remove water through the parapet.

But it is imperative that the flat roof ebb system always works properly. And for this, such a system must be passable, i.e. protected from clogging by leaves in autumn and snow in winter. For this purpose, a basket is attached to the ferrule or flange on the funnel and the heating cables are laid. And in the lower part of the pipe, an audit is mounted for cleaning and control. The water itself flows through the internal drain into the main collector.

Selection of drainage material

First, you should decide what material you want to install the gutter system from:

This is not to say that one of them will be better or worse. Plastic usually attracts by its affordability and ease of installation, metal - by its durability and reliability.

But it should be borne in mind that serious requirements are imposed on the arrangement of the drainage system of a house in the Russian region:

From what material the drainage system will be made of, its practicality and durability depends. A high-quality gutter should work properly even in days of heavy rainfall, and at the same time without any splashes on the walls. The material must be sufficiently resistant to wind gusts, severe frosts and snow load. So let's take a closer look at the pros and cons of each option.

Modern metal sills are made of galvanized steel, sheet metal, aluminum, titanium-zinc, copper and polymer-coated metal. The most affordable of them in price are tin and galvanized steel, and they are also less practical, because subject to mechanical damage and corrosion. When working with such elements, you will have to use a lot of sealant and protect all joints, but this may not save you from water that will freeze in the pipes and explode them. Because of all this, the total service life of the gutter does not exceed 15 years. Still not everyone likes galvanized steel due to the fact that over time it becomes covered with whitish and rusty stains. Therefore, such steel is protected with plastic on both sides, such technologies help to increase the warranty period of the drain up to 15 years. And only in this case, the steel gutter is not afraid of acid rain, sun, or scratches.

Much more durable castings made of zinc-titanium, aluminum and copper. These do not deform even with a serious snow load. But they already weigh more, are difficult to install and load the cornice a lot. For example, copper ones not only delight with their aesthetic appearance, but also have high strength characteristics. A separate type of gutters, which are not much more expensive than zinc ones, are made of aluzinc. They have a rather beautiful metallic luster and crystallization pattern, while excellent corrosion due to the presence of aluminum in protective coating drain. This element forms a stable oxide film on the surface of the pipes.

There is also such a type of drainage as lead. They are distinguished by remarkable resistance to temperature changes, especially sharp ones when frost occurs at night in spring. at the same time, lead gutters are so easy to assemble that they are suitable for any complex roof configuration.

But the most popular are plastic drainage systems. They are lightweight, practical and quiet, and at the same time much more affordable than all other types. Plastic gutters are so simple that they are not difficult to install even for a completely ignorant person.

You will probably be surprised, but today even cement gutters are produced, and they are quite reliable! But they have a significant drawback: constant shrinkage, which requires constant repair work. Who, then, buys drainage systems of this quality? Those who want to seriously save money, because similar systems are cheaper than plastic ones.

Rules for the calculation and design of the ebb system

Competent installation of roof eaves always begins with its design and calculation:

First of all, you need to determine exactly where it will be more convenient for you to place the drainage system, taking into account the location of windows, doors and any protruding elements of the architecture of the house.

But how to install ebb tides on the roof of an ordinary private house, we will now tell you. So, first, the gutters are installed, taking into account the slope to the funnel. This is 3-5 mm for every 1 meter:

If you are not using self-adjusting gutter hooks, then trim to this slope:

The process of installing gutters

We have prepared for you a whole series of step-by-step illustrations and master classes so that you can understand all the details of installing waterways for a gable roof.

Step 1. Determining the slope and mounting the mount

In total, during the installation process, you will need two types of fasteners:

There are also several ways to secure the hooks, not only taking into account the slope:

Bend the gutter bracket to the desired angle using a hook and fasten it to the frontal board v the right order starting from the corner. Make sure that the distance between the brackets is the same, from 50 to 60 cm.This distance is named for a reason: this is how you will not face such a problem as sagging gutters and falling off tides strong wind or a cap of snow.

Now we turn to the gutter device. If it consists of several elements, collect them on the ground. Then follow these instructions:

• Step 1. Now mark the position for the future drain funnel, and on both sides, at a distance of 15 cm from the edge, install the gutter holders.
• Step 2. Install the gutter holders as far as possible from the drain funnel, taking into account the slope of the gutter 0.3%.
• Step 3. On the frontal board, now install the intermediate holders, between which there should be no more than 60 cm.
• Step 4. Mark the locations of the gutter corners and sleeves. Install the chute into the holders.
• Step 5. Insert the lip of the gutter into the front flange of the gutter, then rotate the gutter back until you hear a click.
• Step 6. Cut the groove to the desired length with a metal hacksaw.
• Step 7. Attach the groove to the holders. Cover the gutter fittings with a thin layer of sliding agent.
• Step 8. Now install the drain funnel and place its rear edge over the rear flange of the gutter.
• Step 9. Connect the gutter sections using couplings. Make sure that the distance of the holder to the edge of the coupling does not exceed 15 cm.
• Step 10. Secure the corners to the gutter, insert the rear gutter flange into the corner flange, and snap the front gutter flange into the corner end flange.

After that, go to the plugs. Put left and right.

And now - about the difficulties. If you do not have the opportunity to put the downpipe directly above the funnel, but the distance is small, up to 10 cm from the center of the funnel to the center of the pipe, then the easiest way is to collect the indent. To do this, put a single-socket outlet on the funnel drain pipe, and put a double-socket outlet on its smooth end.

If the distance between the centers is more than 10 cm, then the indent will have to be collected from three elements. To do this, put the double-socket outlet on the drain branch pipe of the funnel, insert a piece of pipe into it, and push the double-socket outlet onto it.

Step 2. Preparation and installation of the gutter

Position the gutter so that it is lower conditional line roofs by 1 cm, and the water from the drip could get directly into the central third of the gutter. Use plumb lines to keep the gutter level. In the place where the downpipe will be attached to the gutter, you need to attach a funnel, make a markup and do the right thing:

The hole for the metal drain is easiest to cut with a drill bit. To work with a plastic chute, you will need a metal saw, a hacksaw, or a fine-toothed saw. Clean the cut edges sandpaper or with a file. Do not forget to bend the edges of the hole outward, so that later the funnel is more securely connected to the gutter:

Here is a good practical example how to do it all with plastic drain:

Step 3. Connecting the gutters in different ways

Before gluing the plastic grooves, the edges of the edges must be deburred and cleaned with a cleaning agent. This is necessary in order to degrease the plastic. Only then is glue applied to the inside of the funnel.

Most modern gutters are no longer assembled with glue, but with a special lock:

And this is how the installation of a metal gutter takes place:

To connect multiple downpipes, you need couplings. During installation, their slotted sockets must face down. In this case, 1 cm of a gap is left between the stop of the socket of the coupling and the edge of the pipe. In addition, a mounting bracket is placed under each of the couplings.

And today they are developing such drainage systems that do not allow the increased flow of water to overflow the edge. This is ensured by a specially designed shape of the gutter with special rigidity.

It has additional stiffening ribs at once along the entire length, which direct the flow of water, increase resistance to deformation and prevent the adhesion of leaves that clog the drain. Many modern roof drainage systems are manufactured with EPDM rubber gaskets. Such seals all elements of the system and at the same time do not interfere with the linear expansion of the gutters.

Install the funnel, bend its edges and fix the plug:

This is what such clamps look like in life:

When attaching pipes to walls made of different materials has its own characteristics. So, in brick wall pipes must be fastened with universal clamps with a screw with an expansion dowel, which has a length of 100, 160 or 220 mm - it all depends on whether there is insulation in the wall or not.

But to fix the pipes to a metal or wooden wall, you will need staples with a foot. Each of these brackets should be fixed to the wall using special screws for metal or wood.

If you are going to drain water from the roof directly into the system storm sewer then on lower part pipes, install a revision with a special grate for collecting dirt. A good alternative would be a universal stormwater inlet that protects against leaks. unpleasant odors and low temperatures... Then there is no need to put a grate in the drain, because there will already be a built-in removable tray for collecting leaves and branches.

By the way, you can refuse vertical drain pipes at all! Today it is becoming fashionable to use chains instead of gutters, as in Japan. They are simply hooked onto the gutter and hang down. With the proper approach, such chains turn into a real decoration of the home and garden.

Chains are just a symbolic name. In fact, on Japanese gutters, such chains have a complex spatial shape with decorative bowls and other elements. If you like this design, then make sure that the chains are securely connected to the base and the groove, while being so tight that they do not move from side to side.

Step 5. Protection of the gutter

When the ebb is completely ready, you can additionally protect it with a special mesh from dirt and leaves:

Patience and adherence to technology - and the gutter system of your home will be professionally reliable!

In order to properly start work, it is necessary to observe the required minimum of technological operations, which include the following:

• Correctly we carry out the fastening of the brackets to the frontal boards, the rafter part. It is necessary to carefully study the main points of the construction of gutters in order to correctly solve the problem of how to make an ebb on the gable of a building with any roof configuration. The brackets must be installed before you can fully cover the roof.
• We carry out the installation of brackets, which are located at the edges of the roof. In this situation, do not forget to set the ebb tide at a certain slope to ensure a high-quality drainage regime. We fix the extreme brackets with self-tapping screws, 2 pieces are enough.
• We pull a control thread between the extreme brackets, in this case a rope. This will allow you to correctly determine how to attach the eaves to the roof in accordance with the principle of our installation.

In those places where the funnels will be installed, we also fix the brackets, with a conditional step of 2 cm.

Now it is necessary to bring the structures of the gutters into the proper form. There are also certain rules here, and the specialists you turn to for help will say what the price is for running meter installation of roof eaves.

• Depending on the technological features, we fasten the parts with an overlap or end-to-end. All working joints must be closed special overlays that are included in the package.
• For plastic gutters, the assembly is not done immediately, but in stages. On the work plate, which is located at the bottom, we apply assembly glue. After that, we fix all parts of the joints in the correct position.
• The plugs on the plastic grooves are "pushed" onto the glue. For galvanized structures, it is necessary to bend the edges of the gutters, insert the plugs, and only then return the edges to their original position.
• In galvanized gutters, it is necessary to work through the holes to the end, which are intended for the installation of funnels and other auxiliary structural parts.
• If we use plastic, then initially it is necessary to "fold" all the parts, and only then insert the elements of the gutters.

Note!

With this principle installation works, no glue required!

A beautiful and neat facade, as well as strong walls of the house, not undermined by bad weather, will be able to provide a properly equipped roof. It is she who is able to protect the structure from precipitation and on long time preserve its original appearance, ensure the protection of materials from the harmful effects of weather conditions. The system for removing excess moisture from the roof is worthy of special attention, so the installation of ebb tides on the roof was, is and will be one of the priority tasks during the construction of a house. How is it done by hand? Let's look at specific examples.

The system of outflows of rain and melt water is a set of elements that allow you to first collect and then remove excess moisture to a specially designated place - a sewer system, a drainage container, etc. The system does not allow water to flow down the walls of the house and spoil the finishing, yes and the main elements of the structure. If water is not systematically diverted from the roof, then over time it will not only destroy the beauty of the walls of the building, but also, penetrating into the joints of the walls and roof, will gradually destroy the building itself.

Attention! A roof that is not equipped with an ebb cannot effectively protect a building from water. The fact is that in this case, the liquid flows from it chaotically, falls on the Mauerlat, forms puddles around the structure, which negatively affect the foundation and paths surrounding the house.

The drainage system consists of gutters fixed along the eaves of the roof, which are responsible for collecting liquid from roofing... Then the collected water flows through funnels into vertically arranged pipes leading to water collection points - sewers, containers, etc.

Ebbs can be made from several materials. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages.

Table. Materials used to make ebbs.

Material	a brief description of
	This is the most reliable, durable, durable, but also the most expensive option for ebb tides. Such ebbs are made of oxidized copper, which not only looks beautiful, but also is not subject to negative influence from weather conditions. The disadvantages of such ebb tides include the considerable weight of the structure, which is important to consider when designing the roof and walls of a building. Also, do not install such ebb tides on buildings that have been unattended for a long time (for example, seasonal dachas).
	Aluminum - can also be used to create ebb. The system is lightweight, does not make the structure heavier, and does not add additional load to the foundation. Unfortunately, aluminum is prone to oxidation and can only be used if processed special formulations protecting it from external negative influences.
	Quite often, steel sills are used to create a drainage system. They are strong, durable, but just like aluminum, they are prone to destruction, namely, they are afraid of corrosion. And their weight, although less than that of copper systems, but still very significant. And the load that the structure will experience is important to take into account even at the design stage.
	Now it is plastic ebbs that are most often used, since they have a long service life, are lightweight, and affordable. They practically do not put pressure on the structure, they are not afraid of water, but they are fragile enough, therefore the fastening system must be thought out and reliable. Another advantage of them is the ability to choose ebb tides of absolutely any color, which are ideal for the style and color scheme of the building.

Gutter prices

Gutters

Preparing for installation

Before starting work on the installation of ebb tides, it is important to attend to the preparation of all necessary tools... Installation may require:

• a marking tool - for example, a marker;
• tape measure - used to take measurements;
• a square, a ruler - can also be useful for applying markings that require accurate angles (for example, when shortening gutters);
• screwdriver, drill - for fastening drain elements;
• hacksaw for metal - useful for giving the required dimensions to the structural elements;
• long twine - convenient for aligning the holding brackets to a certain level while attaching them;
• a stepladder - without it, it will be very difficult to climb to the very top of the structure.

It is also worth stocking up with self-tapping screws, sealant. It is recommended to work carefully, especially while under the roof itself. It is best if a safety wire is used, but this only applies to buildings that are tall enough. It is also recommended to invite an assistant to help, who at the right time will be able to support the structural elements or submit something.

Silicone sealant prices

Installing gutters

Ebb installation works can be carried out at any time of the year. However, if the system is not mounted correctly, it will not work. It is worth following the installation instructions so that everything works out as required. In general, anyone who owns at least a little construction tool... The installation of the entire system always begins with the installation of gutters.

Step 1. The first step is to apply the markings and determine the attachment points for the gutter hook holders. The step between them should be about 60-90 cm.If it significantly exceeds the specified parameters, then the low tides will not withstand the snow pressure (snow load) in winter time years and break. In this case, the hooks are mounted so as to ensure a certain slope of the gutter - otherwise water will not flow through it or it will do it very badly, accumulating in the gutter. The slope of the gutter must be at least 0.5 cm per meter of length... It is also taken into account that the edge of the roof should in the future hang over the gutter by about 5 cm.The first and last holders should be displaced vertically relative to each other by 5 cm at maximum length drainage basin 10 m.

Step 2. Before fastening, the holders are marked out, taking into account the vertical displacement required for correct installation.

Step 3. The drainage gutters are mounted along the eaves using the designated brackets or hooks. The long holders are fixed on the rafter boards or on the eaves before the roof finishing is laid. For the hooks, small grooves are created, with the width and length suitable for the place of attachment of the holder. The hook itself is screwed to the wood with screws or bolts.

If the roof is fully assembled, then compact or short holders are used, which are also attached to the self-tapping screws on the frontal board.

On a note! Long holders are more reliable than compact ones; they can withstand a fairly strong load.

Step 4. First, the first and last holders are fixed in the system. Then a string is pulled between them, which will help you navigate when installing subsequent holders. And before attaching the rest of the hooks, you need to make sure that the cornice is installed strictly horizontally. If this is not the case, then the level must be taken into account when applying the markings. The building level is used to determine the horizon.

Step 5. Holders must also be attached to each side of the attachment point of the funnel, which will drain water from the catchment into the drain pipe. They are fixed at a distance of approx. 150 mm on either side of the installation site of the drain funnel.

Step 6. The installation of the water drainage funnels begins. Their number must be strictly defined. When calculating the load on the system, it is required to remember that one drain pipe, which will be connected to the gutters just with the help of funnels, must take in liquid from an area of ​​no more than 120 m 2 of the projection of the roof slope onto the horizon and no more than 10 m in length one gutter. It is with these values ​​in mind that the marking of the installation sites of the funnels is made.

Step 7. The holes are created in the gutters for the installation of funnels. To do this, the proposed installation locations of the drain funnels are marked on the gutter, a round or V-shaped hole with a diameter of 10-11 cm is cut using a hacksaw.

Step 8. The edges of the hole in the gutter curl slightly outward.

Step 9. The funnel is put on the place selected and prepared on the gutter, fastened with the side in the lock on its outer side, as well as with the help of clamps that are bent inside the gutter.

Step 10. The end caps of the catchment are being installed. They are mounted on those parts of the gutter that will be considered end so that water does not flow outwards at this point - that is, on the ends of the gutter that have no connections with other parts of the ebb system. Before installation, the joint is treated with silicone sealant for reliability.

Advice! You can attach the plug to the end more tightly using a rubber hammer for tamping or screwing it in with a self-tapping screw.

Step 11. After assembly, the catchments can be installed in their intended place. To do this, the groove is inserted into the hook so that its edge is inside the curl of the holder.

Step 12. The connecting corners of the gutters are fixed with a special snap-on retainer.

Step 13. Connection of individual gutters for enlargement total length produced end-to-end by using special connectors. Typically, these connectors have a special (usually rubberized) gasket to ensure tightness and reliability of the connection. There should be a distance of 3-4 mm between the catchments, the edges of which lie on this element.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Installation of waste pipes

After the gutters for collecting liquid from the roof have been mounted, drain pipes are installed and brought to the place where water is collected.

Step 1. The required length of the drain pipe is determined, which should be such as to connect the troughs with the elbow and the elbow of the liquid outlet. A hacksaw will help you to cut the pipes to the desired length. In general, the pipe should be of such a length that the end elbow located at the exit from the pipe is at a distance of 20 cm from the ground or blind area. Otherwise, splashes of the escaping liquid will scatter in all directions.

Step 2. Pipe holders are mounted on the wall of the building. They are mounted so that the pipe takes a strictly vertical position or has a very slight slope. The distance between the individual brackets should be about 2 m, but one pipe should be supported by two brackets.

Step 3. The brackets are fixed using reliable metal fasteners... First, the brackets are installed at the joints - for example, at the junction of the pipe with the elbow or connecting pipe at the top. Further, the pipe itself is fixed on the installed brackets.

Step 4. All drain elements are connected. To do this, a drainpipe, a pipe elbow, connecting pipe(if necessary), drain elbow.

Step 5. The structure is leveled, only after that the connecting pipe is connected to the gutter funnel.

Attention! Drain pipes should be installed approximately every 5-6 m of the length of the roof edge to effective removal water. It is also best to provide for their location at the corners of the building, especially for houses with complex geometry.

Video - Installation of ebb tides

Additional Information

After the installation is completed, the operation of the ebb tides can be checked by letting in a large flow of water through the system. At this point, you can immediately identify leaks, if any, and also see how efficiently the system is coping with the drains. If deficiencies are identified, it is better to fix them immediately, without postponing until later, until the system is put into operation.

The best way to drain rainwater is through specially made grooves leading to the drain. Can also be installed under drain pipes and collection containers. The water collected in this way can be useful for horticultural and other needs.

In general, the exit points should be located so that they do not interfere with movement around the house, as well as that the water flowing down the pipes does not harm the plants planted around. During heavy rains, liquid flows can cause irreparable damage to crops.

To avoid difficult situations, it is recommended to regularly inspect the drainage system for damage and malfunctions. Defects, noticed immediately and not started, are much easier to fix than those that have existed for a long time and gradually erode and destroy the bends even more.

For the installation of ebb tides, you will need a little experience in owning a construction tool, desire and knowledge of information about how all the work is done in stages. In general, there is nothing complicated here, but nevertheless, you should not neglect a thorough study of the instructions. It is often too difficult to correct mistakes made unknowingly.

Video - DIY installation of a drainage system