How to build scaffolding from planks. We make scaffolding from wood or pipes with our own hands

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, summer cottage or country cottage, then do not rush to give money for the finished product. In our material, we will share the best instructions on how to make a structure yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from components and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to secure the activities of workers who work on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Varieties of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made of metal and wood. Now let's figure out what modifications are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are irreplaceable when using massive materials and knots. This means that you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant advantage is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. As the name suggests, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Framed. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest by a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with nodal fasteners with diagonal and horizontal racks. The cost won't hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at facilities of increased importance. Produced in accordance with the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each of the types of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

lintels for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
stepladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself installation rules for wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-written drawing. Heed the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the posts is in the range of two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of the jumpers for the initial deck is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one - attachments at an elevation from 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

DIY scaffolding from boards implies the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or a bar with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed to process persistent braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, ties and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling tall scaffolds, and the latter - at a break and for compact products.

Step # 1. Four racks are cut according to the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step # 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step # 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen with ties (horizontal and diagonal).

Step # 4. We prepare a solid flooring from bars. Then we mount it securely on horizontal lintels.

Step # 5. Now comes the turn with direct manipulation of the forests. They are connected on two side abutments.

Step No 6. And only after that the railings and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Products from a profile pipe: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of forest is collected in a similar way. However, keep in mind some of the nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (ten of them). It is very easy with them to fix diagonal ties and then fix them to the scaffold base posts.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25 × 25 mm or 35 × 35 mm. Provide an additional piece for the installation of the handrail. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
Buy four plates for thrust bearings. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10 × 10 cm.
For the struts and jumpers, take eight segments: equally equal to 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal screeds must be formed from four sections (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get down to work

The first thing to start assembling scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to the OSB sheet, which is the assembly board. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, the jumpers (horizontal) are securely attached to the racks, and only then the adapters (from parts of the pipes) are fixed to the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indentation is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After that, the finished device (tandem of jumpers with racks) is first detached from the assembly board for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: the clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as the correct processing of thin-walled pipes (for diagonal stretch marks). For our purposes, we hammer the ends and the middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get the spans for the bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with fasteners with nuts and bolts.
Now we will deal with the handrails and posts separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Foot pads (plates) are fastened to pieces of pipes. For this we use a welding machine.
At the final stage, the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed over the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "forty" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decided to assemble scaffolding on their own should know:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey the following logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent struts.
When you attach the screeds, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolds they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but during major repairs or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you cannot do without a profile pipe of a persistent cut, which serves for the stability of the forests. Action: Create holes in the posts.
Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted in the area of contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse sequence to installation. However, do not forget that before basic manipulations you need to:

inspect scaffolding flooring for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc .;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required if the structure has not been used for a long time and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of products are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Pay special attention to wall mounts, which are disassembled in a similar way: remove the hooks that are located above the tier subjected to manipulation. Craftsmen advise when dismantling almost all scaffolding (except for the clamp variety), remove the component parts of the tier and lay it on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, consider the strict sequence: fences - posts and fasteners above the deck of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Second, let's move on to the deck board. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will come in handy for laying the tier under the one in question.
Thirdly, the railings are removed from the stairwells, then the racks. And then - the boards of the platforms and stairs. And finally, it is the turn of the tier frame: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
Wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are overwritten with a special compound.

Throughout the entire process, you cannot do without ropes and pulleys - reliable lifting devices. The elements obtained after dismantling must be inspected and packaged in order to store or transport the scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of installing scaffolding, it's time to put the knowledge gained into practice. And if you are seriously thinking about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order high-quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.

During the construction or finishing of a house, scaffolding is indispensable. For their construction, it is not necessary to contact the professionals, you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second can be used a large number of times. Next, we will consider how to properly build both those and other forests with our own hands.

What does the structure consist of?

Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly define what elements they consist of. So, the structure includes:

various braces that give rigidity to the structure;

cross members for the floor;

boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;

supports that will give stability;

fences;

ladder for climbing the floors of the building.

Homemade construction - isn't it dangerous?

Making scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable structure, but a rather voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if you disassemble it, then the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. Well, if the house can be heated with wood, then they can come in handy, and if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - it will be possible to lease them, but again, if there is a demand for them.

It is also worth noting that the use of self-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. Scaffolding, especially of wood, at higher heights can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, then is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction. It may be easier to rent it. After evaluating all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings, where not only the appearance of the structure should be drawn, but also the amount of required material should be indicated.

Installation of a wooden structure

In order to create a structure made of wood, it will be necessary to prepare the following materials:

wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;

boards for the floor and crossbars with a thickness of 5 centimeters;

wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;

In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order to walk on it safely, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need:

using braces to fasten four racks together;

fasten the crossbars at the required height;

fix the floorboards on the crossbars;

attach boards that will play the role of a fence;

carry out the installation of supports;

fix the ladder in the right place;

check the drawings.

All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with nails and a hammer (see video).

Metal construction

A structure made of a shaped pipe is more reliable than a structure made of boards. When constructing a structure, it must be borne in mind that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:

pipe for supports with a cross section of 3x3 centimeters and a length of 1.5 meters;

pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;

pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;

a floor of boards about 5 centimeters thick and about 2 meters long;

So, in order to create a structure from a shaped pipe, you must:

cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;

cut two-meter braces from each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;

connect two supports each with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be about 30 centimeters;

fix the connecting elements;

drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;

assemble a structure from a shaped pipe to the end;

clean the structure and paint it;

check the available drawings.

How can we do without forests?

It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this has not happened, what is the right thing to do? If the work on the construction or finishing of the building will be carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every brigade should have such structures. If the chance of their independent construction is lost or no more work is planned wherever they might be needed, the structure can be easily rented.

But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, all finishing work must be carried out immediately with the highest quality. For example, it is better to use facing bricks or other similar materials as finishing materials, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.

Even a one-story residential building or an outbuilding is problematic to build without platforms or scaffolding. Some kind of elevation is still needed and will be absolutely correct if it is a good scaffolding. They will ensure safety on the construction site and high speed of work, not to mention the convenience of foremen and auxiliary workers. It is not always profitable to rent, let alone buy, spatial structures for construction, so we will try to save some money.

What is it and why are they needed

It will not be difficult to build scaffolding with your own hands, but they can solve a lot of issues related to the construction of walls, roofing, and facade decoration. The price of metal scaffolding is about 200 rubles per square meter. On the one hand, there is not so much, but on the other - why buy if homemade ones are three times cheaper in cost, and in terms of quality and functionality are no worse if you adhere to certain rules and regulations.

The main task of scaffolding is to provide the ability to work at a certain height. In this case, safety and convenience are considered first. Regardless of the design and height, of the material, the scaffolding should be equipped with either handrails or a net, be easy to install and compact for storage and transportation. There is no need to reinvent the bicycle, everything has already been invented before us and is described in GOSTs and standards.

Parameters and characteristics of wooden and metal structures

Before choosing a material for scaffolding, you need to decide on their dimensions, taking into account the requirements of building codes. They should be observed, if only for the reason that, first of all, they are called upon to take care of our safety. First of all, before the direct construction of the structure, a drawing is performed taking into account the following parameters:

the maximum height of the spatial structure should not exceed six meters;
any scaffolding rests on racks, the distance between which must be at least two meters;
the working space, regardless of height, should be at least one meter wide, this is necessary both for the convenience of work and to prevent the fall of tools and materials.

The following parameters considered will help to avoid unnecessary waste of material. For example, in terms of ergonomics, it is most convenient to work when the working area is 40 cm below the thoracic region. Therefore, it is at this distance that the lowest platform should be installed. The platform of the second level is arranged at a height of 175 to 200 cm from the level of the first platform. It is also worth considering a system of braces or fixing to the wall, which will not allow the structure to move away from the treated surface. Now, armed with the general parameters and drawing up a drawing, we proceed to the assembly of scaffolding from wood or metal.

We collect metal scaffolding

A frame metal structure with a wooden deck is what you need for private construction. Such scaffolds are cheaper than yoke scaffolds, more expensive than wooden ones, but they are stronger and can be used many times. Framed metal scaffolding consists of sections 2x2x1 m. The dimensions can be changed within the permissible limits, which we have already mentioned. To assemble the scaffolding, you will need the following materials:

pipe 30 mm;
pipe 15 mm;
edged board forty;
attachment ladder;
threaded fasteners;
grinder, drill, welding, building level and the simplest locksmith tool.

The installation of metal scaffolding is carried out in several stages:

Making spacers from 15 mm pipe. A spacer made from a thinner pipe will help maintain the rigidity of the structure, while not making it much heavier. The transverse (horizontal) spacers should be at least a meter in length, and the diagonal ones - 2 m. The cut pipes are flattened at both ends, after which a hole is drilled in the deformed ends corresponding to the diameter of the hardware.
Manufacturing of adapters. In order to be able to increase the vertical supports in height, it is necessary to make adapters that will be inserted into the racks and the continuation of the vertical rack will be worn on them. The number of adapters is calculated depending on the height of the scaffolding. For their manufacture, a 25x25 mm profile is used, the length is about 300 mm, for fixing a sleeve 6-8 cm long from a 30x30 profile is put on the adapter.

Assembling the frame and flooring

Each vertical post is connected by horizontal jumpers, which are welded every 30-35 cm.
Support plates in the form of a square with a side of 70-80 mm are welded to the lower ends of the support posts so that the structure does not fall into the ground.
Each two racks are installed vertically strictly along a plumb line or level. Diagonal struts are tried on to them. A marker is used to mark the drilling locations. Drill holes in spacers and bolt uprights.
Shields are assembled from a 40 mm thick board along the length of the section, knocked down from the back side and strengthened so that there is no deflection.
Along the edges of the flooring, a U-shaped profile is fixed by the size of the crossbar on a vertical rack with self-tapping screws.
The laid flooring will be fixed with a U-shaped profile, which will not allow the shield to move.

Now it remains only to treat the new forests with an anti-corrosion compound, soil and paint if desired. The structure is completely ready to work. Happy construction to all!

It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at a high altitude. The design will help you safely climb the elevation, do everything you need to do, put nearby materials that will help you in your business. It is inconvenient to rent construction loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, the loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, provide the ability to climb to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can do yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing; you can add boards to the structure. If you make everything from wood, it will be much cheaper than metal. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them.

In time, the metal frame will take longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them as required.

2. Wedge. A considerable mass can be stacked on them.

3. Pin headers. It is enough to simply assemble and disassemble them. They are suitable for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg for each meter of the base surface. In construction, they are used most often, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.

Important:DIY construction loess from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.

Loess making

Making a loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them in the correct sequence. To speed up the work, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one structure.

Materials for making loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made of planks. Can be made of aluminum, but less stress will be obtained. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

Profiles 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
Pipes 15 mm in diameter, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
Profile for connecting elements. Section 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from a profile.
Bolts, nuts and washers that will hold each element in place. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts.

For work, you will need to use a drill, grinder or hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making threads in the required elements. The ground at the installation site must be well compacted so that there are no distortions during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The earth under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at the height.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of the elements higher and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.

Loess collection

The construction loess is assembled in the following order:

1. First, you need to cut the workpieces: the diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 vertical uprights are connected with spacers. They should be located strictly horizontally.

3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are secured.

5. Bolt holes must be drilled on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to paint the scaffolds to make them last longer. If the structure is planned to be often disassembled and assembled, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people wonder whether it is worth doing scaffolding on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but it takes a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work, they can be used for other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will have a disposable structure that anyone who knows how to work with wood can make, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (shaped pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.

Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolds, they can differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, let's consider the main types of forests.

Component elements are connected with a special wedge fixation. Scaffolding of this design is highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. Moreover, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important in the construction and lifting of heavy materials and units.

The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. Mostly they are used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal struts and diagonal braces due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolds is their low cost. Their construction will not require large investments.

In these woods, the knot of the joint, as the name implies, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble them directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolds will not take much time.

If the object being renovated has a complex configuration, then yoke scaffolding is an excellent solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, the height and size of the working area, the distance between the tiers and the step of the racks play an important role. All this is selected individually at each facility.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:

Parallel to each other on a flat area, lay out 4 racks or boards. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
The racks are connected to each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
Place the prepared 2 frames horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
On horizontal screeds, lay the flooring from the boards and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.

If it is necessary to lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. Boards are stuffed onto support posts.

When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes so that the boards do not split.

Design

All forests are composed of the following elements:

racks;
diagonal and horizontal struts (they add spatial strength to the structure);
lintels for flooring;
plank flooring on which the person will stand;
stops (to create the stability of the scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
a protective element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
ladder (stepladder) to climb to the desired level of the scaffolding.

Of wood and planks

There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:

Getting started:

Prepare the necessary materials in advance:

boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or a beam of 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
boards for spacers and fences 30 mm thick;
boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
nails (screws in this case are less reliable).

Fasten the four uprights, observing the recommended distances, using the diagonal braces (on all four sides).

Fasten the jumper boards at the desired height.

Attach the deck boards to the lintels.

Nail in a board to fence off the work area.

Install the stops.

Attach and secure the ladder.

Photo instruction

We bring to your attention a series of photos on how to make your own wooden scaffolding:

From a profile pipe

Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of the scaffolding you need.

Prepare the necessary materials:

for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.

Cut the pipe for spacers based on:

for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
for horizontal elements connecting the posts from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.

Cut diagonal two-meter spacers from both ends (by 6-8 cm) and flatten them (it will be more convenient to fasten them this way).

Connect two posts together by welding them together with horizontal spacers with a vertical pitch of 30 cm.

Assemble the adapters: put on a 25x25 mm long profile pipe with a length of 25-30 cm and weld in the center a small piece of a 30x30 cm profile pipe (7-8 cm long).

Drill bolt holes on the uprights and diagonal braces.

Assemble the entire structure, sand and paint.

Place one section on top of another (connecting them using adapters), in the right place lay the flooring from the boards.

"Pros and cons"

Firstly, scaffolding is not a small construction scaffold, but rather a cumbersome structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.

Wooden scaffolding, of course, can then be disassembled, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you do not need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood is often stained with mortar or paint.

Homemade metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also leased out in the future.

Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work at the maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). At higher altitudes, the exploitation of self-made forests becomes dangerous.

Thirdly, scaffolding is rarely required (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.

Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.

It is worth thinking about forests even at the design stage of a house.

If you do not plan to carry out the facade work on your own (but are going to hire a construction team), then you do not need to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolds.

However, at the end of construction (and after some time), scaffolding may be needed to carry out minor facade repairs. Can this be avoided?

Of course. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require renovation for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when erecting walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.

But other facing materials (such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.