Homemade wood machines. Sheet bending machine - we make a manual bending machine with our own hands

Modern processing metal parts is almost impossible without a lathe. To save money, you can make this device yourself.

Making an ego is actually not as difficult as it seems, and a drawing of a lathe can be easily found on the Internet. The design of the machine can be the most diverse, as well as its dimensions.

Material for its manufacture at home is easy to find in any garage.

Lathe device

It is impossible to make a lathe with your own hands without knowing its device, so below we present its main parts:

• Drive unit. The basis of the mechanism, generates power. For a low-power machine, a drive from a drill or a washing machine is suitable;
• Bed. A steel corner or a frame made of wood is suitable for manufacturing, this is a kind of load-bearing frame, so it must be strong to withstand vibrations;
• Rear grandma. It is made by welding a corner to an iron plate. It is needed for fixing during processing of the manufactured device;
• Front grandma. Mounted to the movable frame, similar to the tailstock;
• Caliper. Acts as a support for the working part.

The torque is transmitted by the engine to the working part using the following options:

• Chain;
• With a belt;
• Friction.

Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Belt - the cheapest and most reliable, easy to manufacture. But the belt wears out quickly and needs to be replaced frequently.

Chain is more expensive, it is more bulky, but it lasts a long time. According to its advantages and disadvantages, friction occupies a middle position. It is worth noting the fact that photos of a lathe with different gears are available on the Internet, and you can easily study them in detail.

The caliper is an extremely important part of the machine. It regulates both the amount of effort expended during work and the quality of the part.

It moves in different directions and is therefore highly susceptible to wear. Do not forget to adjust it before starting work.

Assembly sequence of the mechanism

We assemble the frame of the machine with the help of channels and beams. The larger parts you plan to work with, the more durable materials the frame should be made of.

For the production of the headstock, we need a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more. We press 2 bearings into the cylinder. Using large diameter bearings, we lay the shaft.

It is necessary to fill the lubricating fluid into the hydraulic booster. Then we install a caliper with guides and a pulley.

We install a handbrake to give the cutter stability. We fasten a small strip of metal from below, betraying the wear resistance of the working part.

Which motor to choose?

The motor is the most important part of any machine, because without it it will not function. The total power of the machine depends on its power. A motor with a power of up to a kilovolt (old sewing machines can serve as a donor), suitable for the manufacture of small parts.

Motors with a power of 1.5-2 Kv. used in the processing of large parts. In no case do not forget about the insulation of all electrical parts.

For the correct installation of the motor, it is better to call an electrician than to get injured.

How to make a lathe from a drill?

To save on spare parts and simplify collection, it is allowed to use a drill as a drive. This design has its advantages:

Note!

• the design is assembled and disassembled at any time;
• it is transferred and transported quite simply, because it is quite simple to disassemble it;
• cost savings;

But this method has its drawbacks, because the drill has a low torque, which will make it almost impossible to process large parts.

It is worth modifying a metal lathe with a drill only when a large amount of work is not planned and small parts need to be made.

For the manufacture of this type of metal lathe, ordinary parts are needed (with the exception of the motor and headstock). The function of the headstock is taken over by a drill.

Due to the compactness of the machine, the role of the beds can be played by a flat surface or a workbench. The drill itself can be fixed with a clamp or clamp.

The following safety points must be observed:

Note!

• upon completion of the layout of the machine, it is necessary to check the serviceability.
• the electric motor in the machine must be protected by a casing;
• the power of the electric motor must be covered by your electrical network;
• the working tool can only be located parallel to the surface of the workpiece. Otherwise it will bounce;
• when processing the end planes, the latter must be rested against the tailstock;
• you can start work only using eye protection against chips;
• after work, the workplace must be left clean.

A woodworking machine requires the same safety precautions as a metalworking machine.

Machine change

When it is necessary to mount the cone-shaped holes, we fasten two files so that a trapezoid shape is obtained. Next, we mount the device on the springs for supplying the file.

To sharpen various blades, we attach a grinding wheel to the engine.

Summing up, I want to say that the assembly of the machine is quite simple. It is quite possible to make a homemade lathe at home with the help of improvised materials, which is a fairly economical measure.

You can adjust the size and power of the equipment yourself, as well as carry out the necessary modifications.

Note!

DIY lathe photo

For "handy" home master desktop lathe for processing metal blanks is the ultimate dream. With its help, the missing parts of the mechanisms being repaired are made, threads are cut, corrugations are made or holes are bored. For some, the universal mechanism opens up new horizons for creativity or hobbies. For others, there is an additional way to replenish the family budget. Unfortunately, the cost of factory equipment in most cases leaves the dream of a complete home workshop unfulfilled. However, the desire to have a lathe at home can be easily fulfilled if you make it yourself. We will tell you more about one of these designs, giving you the opportunity to build a lathe with your own hands.

Purpose and opportunities

The modern lathe is a symbiosis of mechanical parts and electronic components.

The main functions of any modern mechanism Whether it's a simple hand grinder or a coal miner, they provide rotating parts that would be impossible to make without lathes. A feature of these units is the processing of bodies of revolution by cutting. The machines of the turning group provide manufacturing accuracy unattainable for other metalworking methods. Equipment of this type is easy to automate and allows you to perform the following operations:

• longitudinal turning of a smooth or stepped cylindrical surface;
• processing of ledges and grooves;
• turning of external and internal conical surfaces;
• boring of conical and cylindrical holes;
• threading (internal or external) with a cutter or drill;
• reaming and countersinking of holes;
• grooving or cutting off;
• shaped turning;
• corrugated surface.

The main purpose of lathes is the processing of three types of parts - shafts, bushings and disks, resulting in a variety of axles, flywheels, liners, star blanks, etc. In addition, other workpieces with the shape of bodies of revolution are processed on universal units, for example , body parts.

Screw-cutting lathes - the most popular design among home craftsmen

All existing lathes distinguish between:

• on the basis of turning (turning-turret, turning-and-boring, multi-cutting machines, etc. - a total of nine subgroups);
• size range, which depends on the diameter of the workpiece;
• degrees of specialization (special, universal, etc.);
• accuracy class.

The most popular for repetition at home are screw-cutting lathes, which have the simplest design among the above units.

Design

Although the first lathes of the turning group appeared at the end of the 18th century, their architecture was so perfect that it has not undergone significant changes so far. We can say that today we use equipment similar to that used for metalworking two centuries ago.

The design of the screw-cutting lathe

A metal lathe consists of the following components and parts:

1. The bed, which is the basis for all other elements. The accuracy of processing and the versatility of the device depend on the strength and scrupulousness of its manufacture. The body part of the machine must be a massive, fundamental structure. This is the only way to avoid vibrations and tool displacement during turning operations.
2. Front spindle head. This unit allows you to fix the workpiece and rotate it during processing. Often the headstock includes a gearbox and a caliper or machining head feed mechanism. This allows you to change the speed of rotation of the part and increases productivity.
3. Rear grandma. This element is designed to hold the part in a given coordinate system, coaxial to the spindle. In addition, a tool fixed in the tailstock allows you to perform additional operations, such as cutting threads.
4. Caliper. Without a doubt, this node is one of the most important in the design of the machine. The support is designed to hold cutting tool and its movement relative to the workpiece. Depending on the design, the caliper can feed the cutter in different planes, which makes it possible to obtain parts with a complex configuration of internal and external surfaces. The main requirements for the support are the reliability of holding the tool and the feed accuracy, since this is directly related to the quality of processing.

In the manufacture of a homemade lathe, the design is simplified as much as possible. To do this, elements that are problematic to make at home are modified, and some nodes are completely abandoned. For example, the gearbox can be replaced with several pulleys of different sizes, and the automatic feed can be excluded from the scheme.

What you need to make

An ideal option in the manufacture of a homemade lathe would be to use separate components from decommissioned equipment. If this is not possible, then you will have to make components and parts yourself.

Instead of a cast frame, a frame welded from steel shaped pipes and corners is used. It goes without saying that a wooden frame in this case is an unacceptable option. The metal profile will be able to provide the required rigidity and stability of the structure. In addition, with the help of even square and rectangular pipes it is not difficult to adhere to the strict geometry of the frame. An uneven frame will not make it possible to correctly fix the centers, which will further affect the quality of the work being done.

low power asynchronous motor- an excellent power unit for a homemade design

For the drive you need a power unit. It is best to use a low-speed asynchronous type electric motor. Unlike collector units, "asynchronous" are practically not at risk of breakage with a sharp decrease in speed.

For processing workpieces with a diameter of not more than 100 mm, an electric motor with a power of 500 - 1000 W will be enough. If you plan to grind larger parts, you will need at least a 1.5-kilowatt power unit.

In addition, you will have to choose a drive belt (or several belts of various lengths). Do not forget about the fasteners with which individual nodes will be attached to the body. For a homemade lathe, nuts and bolts with a diameter of 8 and 10 mm with a conventional metric thread are suitable.

As a sled, parts machined from a steel bar with subsequent hardening are used, but guides made from suspension struts or long shafts of industrial mechanisms would be the best option. They have excellent geometry, and their surface is hardened in the factory.

The tailstock, like the spindle, is best used from decommissioned factory equipment

The tailstock can also be made from shaped pipes and a thick metal sheet, but the quill is made from a hardened pointed bolt, several nuts with the same thread and a steering wheel made from a pulley from agricultural machinery. Using a home-made quill will require each time you fasten a part to lubricate the contacting surfaces with lithol or grease. A similar procedure will not be needed with a factory-made rotating center, so if possible, then this part is better to buy.

The longitudinal and transverse feed screws can also be turned on a lathe or use a long threaded rod that can be bought at hardware hypermarkets.

For feed screws, a finely threaded shaft is used - this will significantly improve the positioning accuracy of the working tool.

For rotation nodes, rolling bearings installed in the housing will be needed, and pulleys of various diameters mounted on the drive shaft will allow you to adjust the speed. These parts can be bought or ordered from a familiar turner.

Making a caliper will require stocking up on a steel plate with a thickness of at least 8mm. It can also be used for the holder.

Another node that cannot be made in artisanal conditions is the spindle. It will have to be bought. Spindle mounting requires the manufacture of a shaft on which the driven pulleys will be mounted. The strength of this part must be impeccable, so it is best to use parts from decommissioned factory mechanisms.

There are designs in which there is no belt drive. Rotation from the motor shaft is transmitted directly to the spindle. Of course, they have the right to exist, however, when choosing such a scheme, be prepared for the frequent failure of the motor bearings.

In addition to the lathe, in the process of work you will need such tools and equipment:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• grinding and emery machine;
• electric drill and a set of drills for metal;
• taps and dies for threading;
• set of wrenches;
• caliper, metal ruler;
• marker.

All these tools and materials will allow you to make a full-fledged desktop-type lathe. If it was not possible to get some details, do not despair - for a while they can be replaced with something else. So, a chuck from an electric drill is quite used instead of a spindle if it is necessary to process small workpieces.

Dimensions and drawings

Determining the dimensions of the machine, first of all, they are guided by the maximum length and diameter of the workpieces. Recall that in industry, low-power turning equipment has the following boundary parameters:

• length - up to 1150 mm;
• width - up to 620 mm;
• the distance from the upper surface of the frame to the spindle axis (axis height) is about 180 mm.

It is hardly worth exceeding these values ​​on homemade equipment. We must not forget that with an increase in size, the risk of distortion of the machine geometry increases many times over. When choosing a caliper size and determining extreme points its movement, calculating the distance between the centers and the limits of movement of the tool holder, it is best to focus on the drawings of home-made machines. Manufactured craftsmen, they have proven their performance in practice, so it would be foolish not to use proven solutions.

Tailstock Drawing of the caliper and tool holder Drawing of the bed Drawing of the headstock Homemade lathe. General form Tailstock drawing

Instructions for making a simple do-it-yourself lathe

Since everyone decides what his lathe will look like and what dimensions it will have, it is impossible to give an accurate description of the manufacture of all parts with dimensions, tolerances and fits. However, the process of building any lathe consists of the same steps.

1. Frame manufacturing. As mentioned above, it is impossible to make a massive cast-iron bed at home. Therefore, its role will be played by a frame made of a channel or steel profile pipes, which are cut to size and then welded according to the drawing. It is important to observe the correctness of all right angles, so control with a square should be carried out every time the next joint is made. It is best to work on a flat, horizontal slab. This will make it possible to obtain a frame with strict geometry in the horizontal plane. You can do without a massive bed, making it from long shafts as guides.

   Parts for the manufacture of the bed

2. On a lathe, side racks of the bed are made.

   side stand

3. Assemble guides with racks. However, between the side supporting elements install spacers.

   Mounting rails on racks

4. Bushings for attaching the tailstock and tool holder are mounted on the guides. It is not necessary to make them the same length. One part can be made shorter than the other, using the long element as a guide, and the shorter one to support the moving parts. This solution will increase the working stroke of the rear center.

   Installing the main feed bushings and guides

5. From steel sheet with a thickness of 8 - 10 mm, the mounting sites for the quill and caliper are made and fastened to the guide and retaining bushings using bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. Special attention should be given to the mounting holes, since the slightest inaccuracy will lead to distortion and jamming of the moving parts of the machine.

   Installation of the support pads of the caliper and tailstock

6. Install lead screw. You can machine this part from a workpiece or use a threaded part from any device, for example, from a high chair with variable height. Be sure to make sure that anti-friction bushings made of bronze or brass are installed in the corresponding holes in the side racks.
7. A vernier and a steering wheel are attached to the lead screw.

   

This article discusses home-made machines and fixtures for the home workshop. Here are detailed features of the most popular and necessary DIY tools, as well as fixtures for the workshop or garage, step by step technologies their manufacture and other useful advice on this topic.

Many owners of home workshops create the equipment they need with their own hands.

Each owner of a garage or workshop, depending on his needs, selects the equipment himself. Many of them know how home-made machines and fixtures for garages are made, so they manage on their own when arranging the premises, adjusting them already for themselves technical features structures.

So, when creating a metal locksmith workbench with your own hands, the drawings and dimensions of the product on them can be adjusted to the parameters of the room and other conditions. Even for a small home workshop, you will need to allocate enough space to accommodate at least the construction of a universal folding workbench and minimum set tools. The required area for this is at least 3-5 m².

Useful advice! It is better to equip the workshop in a separate room so that the noise from the work of a home-made wood grinder and other tools does not interfere with the residents. Under the placement of machines, you can take a garage, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is enough for comfortable work and installation of equipment.

Manufacture of tool storage devices: shelves, racks

In fact, it is very difficult to achieve optimal working conditions. It is desirable that the size of the room be at least 6.5 m. To equip the workshop, you can make an extension to the house or garage. This decision will be the most profitable in any case.

Before you design a drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands, which has the most overall design (therefore, its dimensions are taken into account in the first place), it is worth deciding on some points:

• indicate what types of work will be performed in the workshop;
• determine the list of necessary tools and equipment.

By mounting the tool on the wall, you can save a lot usable space in a workshop. Shelves or racks are perfect for this. You can successfully arrange these structures, achieving the most rational distribution of the area.

In order to save space, you can get special device for circular saw with their own hands, made on the basis of conventional drill. Such universal machine can perform several functions at once, combining the possibilities:

• circular saw;
• grinding machine;
• grindstone;
• cutting machine.

The work table can be combined with a vise for a carpentry workbench and equipped with drawers to store small tools.

DIY tool shelves: popular designs

Metal structures are more durable and reliable, while wooden structures are affordable.
There are several options for rational storage of tools:

• wall shelves;
• do-it-yourself tool racks;
• suspended ceiling shelves;
• Shelves-shields for hanging small tools.

Useful advice! The shield shelf is very convenient for metalwork and carpentry work. You can install tool holders or hooks, small shelves or containers for fasteners on it. It is best to hang such a structure over a folding carpentry workbench. You can even bring additional lighting. It is better to use a small lamp for this.

Do-it-yourself tool shelf manufacturing technology (shield):

1. A shield is cut out of a plywood sheet, the places where the shelves will be installed are marked on it.
2. Using a jigsaw, shelves with side walls are cut out. The length of these sides should match the length of the shield.
3. Shelves for tools are assembled and fixed on the surface of the shield using long self-tapping screws.
4. Hooks are being installed. Holes are made in the shield where dowels are installed. They need to be screwed into special hooks equipped with threads. First, it is worth distributing the entire tool and designating the points where it will hang.
5. Brackets or lugs are mounted on the rear wall of the structure.

It remains only to fix the shelf-shield on the wall. To prevent the eyes from slipping off the anchors, it is recommended to fix them with special washers.

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology

The following details must be present on the drawing of the carpentry workbench:

1. Work surface - for its manufacture it is recommended to take a board with a thickness of 6 cm or more. Suitable wood species such as oak, hornbeam or beech. It is allowed to use several narrow boards pre-treated with drying oil.
2. On the top cover, a do-it-yourself design of a do-it-yourself vice is attached, which should also be included in the drawing. If it is planned to install a large-sized product, it is better to take wood for its manufacture. It is allowed to manufacture and subsequent installation of small do-it-yourself metalwork vise made of steel.
3. Workbench supports - can be made from linden or pine. Between them, it is imperative to establish a longitudinal connection in the form of strips. This will increase the stability of the table.
4. Shelves for storing tools - mounted under the workbench. Structures can be fixed or retractable.

Useful advice! Linear parameter the workbench can exceed 1 m. The increased size of the structure can be used to install a carpentry vice in the amount of two pieces with your own hands.

There are several modifications of workbenches:

• mobile;
• stationary;
• folding (universal).

Having familiarized yourself with the device of the carpentry workbench, you can begin to manufacture it.

Do-it-yourself technology and drawings of a carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design

Step-by-step construction technology:

1. To make the cover of a wooden carpentry workbench, you will need to take thick boards. The size must be chosen so that as a result of their connection a shield with parameters of 0.7x2 m is obtained (the length can be less than 2 m). Long nails should be used as fasteners, which must be hammered from the front side and bent from the inside.
2. You can finish the cover by fixing a bar with a section of 50x50 mm along its lower perimeter.
3. Depending on the size of the carpentry workbench (its cover), vertical supports are located. For their manufacture, a bar is taken (12x12x130 cm). At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the height of the working surface, because it should be comfortable. The upper limit of the support should be at the level of the lowered hands. Subsequently, due to the installation of the cover, about 8-10 cm will be added to this indicator. The markings for the installation of the bars should be applied to the ground and these elements should be dug to a depth of 0.2-0.35 m.
4. Next, do-it-yourself installation of the frame part and the cover of the workbench made of wood is carried out. Installed support bars must be connected in pairs. For this, wide boards are used, fixed at a height of 0.2-0.4 m with long self-tapping screws. At the ends of the supports, a cover is fixed using the same fasteners.

Note! Do not use nails to mount the cover. In the process of driving them, the frame part of the product may move.

Manufacturing technology of a universal wooden workbench with your own hands

Despite the fact that the technology for creating this design is in many ways similar to previous version, for the manufacture of a composite carpentry workbench, drawings with dimensions will be required without fail. But in this case, bolts are used instead of self-tapping screws.

In addition, in a folding universal workbench with your own hands, you can install drawers for storing tools.

Do-it-yourself folding workbench manufacturing technology:

1. Vertical supports are installed in a similar way and are interconnected using horizontal jumpers. Before mounting jumpers, they should be grooved for nuts and washers. To do this, it is better to use a hammer and a chisel.
2. When the jumpers are set at the required level, through holes are made in a horizontal bar and a vertically mounted support. A long bolt will be inserted here. On the side where there is a groove for fasteners, a nut and washer are put on, after which the element is well pulled together.
3. Horizontal jumpers for the frame part of a home-made carpentry workbench will need 2 pcs. on each of the 4 sides. You will also need a couple of jumpers for installation under the work surface (in the center). The elements under the worktop are designed for drawers. The distance between these jumpers must correspond to the dimensions of the boxes.
4. Bolts are also used to fix the work surface. Mounting recesses are prepared at the ends of the supports, and holes for fasteners are prepared on the countertop. The bolts are installed so that their heads are recessed (by 1-2 mm).

Note! Folding workbench drawings are not as complicated as they might seem. The advantage of the design is that any damaged part can be easily replaced with a new one.

Do-it-yourself carpentry vise design for a workbench

Usually workbenches are equipped with a vise. Many owners of garage workshops know how to make such a device with their own hands. For a homemade design, you will need special studs. Such fasteners are sold in hardware stores.

To work, you will need a special screw pin. This threaded part is the main active component of the structure. The minimum pin diameter is 2 cm, the cutting length is 15 cm. The longer this part is, the wider the vise can be spread. If these dimensional parameters are taken into account in the drawings of the vise with your own hands, you can get a design that is bred by almost 8 cm.

The jaws of the tool are made from a pair of boards. One part of the part will be fixed. To make it, you need to take pine. The second part measuring 2x1.8x50 cm will move. In each of these boards you need to make a hole for the screw. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 cm, holes for studs are formed in all boards at the same time. To prevent the holes from moving relative to each other, you can connect them with nails.

After all the holes are made, the screw and all the studs are inserted into them along with the washer and nut.

Useful advice! To be able to process blanks different size, you need to make the studs rearrangeable. You will need to make a couple of additional holes in each of the boards, located near the screw clamp.

Additionally, you can use the video material below to create a vise with your own hands.

Making a locksmith workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure

For locksmith work, it is better to make a metal workbench with your own hands, because a wooden workbench is not suitable for this. The thing is, wood is not that strong. In addition, when working with metal blanks, a countertop made of this material will be constantly damaged and will quickly become unusable.

On the general drawing do-it-yourself locksmith workbench can be divided into five main components of the design:

1. For longitudinal rigidity of the product, horizontal beams (3 pcs.) 6x4 cm in size are used. Length - slightly more than 2 m.
2. Rack-mounted small-sized beams (9 pcs.) Made of profiled pipes 6x4 cm in size. They are used to assemble the frame part of the pedestals. In the corner area there are weld-on spacers made of steel strips. Due to all these elements, the frame is rigid and very durable.
3. Rack beams (4 pcs.) 9-10 cm long (section 6x4 cm). To do this, it is better to use metal profile pipes with thick walls (more than 2 mm).
4. Corner No. 50 (4 pcs.), which will be used as uprights. The height of these elements is 1.7-2 m. Working tools will be attached here.

Locksmith workbench dimensions:

Useful advice! In order to make high-quality seams, it is recommended to use a carbon dioxide semiautomatic device. Experienced craftsmen can use a pulse type welding machine. In the absence of skills in handling this tool, it is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble

Making a universal workbench with your own hands begins with assembling the frame. To do this, take a couple of short and a couple of long beams. During the welding process, these elements may be subjected to twisting.

To prevent this, you must:

1. Lay out the parts on a perfectly flat plane.
2. At the locations of the docking nodes (there are 4 of them), the beams are tacked using the spot welding method.
3. After that, all welding seams are fully completed. First on one side of the frame, then on its reverse side.

Then the rear vertically arranged racks and the rear beam (long, one of three) are attached. Be sure to check how evenly in relation to each other they are placed. If there are any deviations, the beams can be carefully bent with a hammer. At the end, the rest of the rack elements are assembled with a vertical arrangement, as well as elements that provide rigidity.

When the frame is ready, corners can be welded to it, designed to strengthen the structure. The table top is made up of wooden planks. They must first be impregnated with a fire-resistant liquid. Then a sheet of metal is laid on top.

A plywood shield for tools can be attached to the vertical rack elements. The same material is used to sew up cabinets. For boxes, you can use metal boxes or make wooden structures.

You can use it in order to understand in more detail the technology of making a workbench with your own hands, the video, which is located below:

Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

In the technology of manufacturing a lathe for wood with your own hands, the frame occupies a special place. The operation of other parts, as well as the stability of the entire structure, directly depends on this part. It can be metal or wood.

Useful advice! For the manufacture of a do-it-yourself wood lathe according to standard drawings, it is better to use an electric motor that can reach a speed of 1500 rpm. The optimal power indicator is 200-250 watts. If you plan to process large workpieces, you can increase the power ratings.

To create a wood lathe with your own hands, you can use the old one, which is no longer needed. This tool is placed on a plywood platform 1.2 cm thick and 20x50 cm in size. First, you need to make holes in it for fasteners. Stops from the bars will also be mounted here. They are necessary in order for the cutter to be in a fixed state. The router itself is fastened with two nails between the clamps.

In fact, it is quite easy to make a copying design of a home-made wood lathe with your own hands - there are enough video materials on the network.

An example of a do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe

For the base, it is better to take a steel profile with thick walls. To make the design reliable, it is recommended to use two supports. A bed will be installed on top of them. To fasten parts, a groove type of connection is used. First you need to make support platforms designed for headstocks (rear and front).

The list of parts for a wood lathe (how to assemble the structure yourself based on this list is easy to understand):

1. Power component - you can use an electric motor from an old pump or washing machine.
2. Headstock (rear) - a head from a drill with a high power reserve is suitable.
3. Headstock (front) - to organize this part, it is better to buy a factory spindle equipped with 3-4 pins. This makes it possible to shift the workpiece with respect to the rotational axis.
4. The supporting element - the table for cutters can be of absolutely any configuration, the main thing is that it provides comfort during work.
5. Pulley - is a connecting element between the headstock and the shafts in the electric motor.

Note! To work with this design, you will need to purchase a set of factory cutters. If you have the right tool, you can make them yourself, but you will need tool steel.

As auxiliary information, you can use a video that reflects this process in detail to assemble a wood lathe with your own hands.

The second example of a do-it-yourself woodworking lathe

An alternative solution would be to manufacture the design of the simplest mini-turning machine for wood with your own hands based on electric drill. This example of technology can be used as a test before building a more serious tool.

This type of machine is suitable for processing small wood blanks. The material for the bed can serve as bars of wood. The tailstock can be replaced with a combination of a shaft mounted on a thrust bearing. To fix the workpiece, you will need to get the appropriate nozzle on the drill.

This design has its drawbacks, they are associated with:

• high probability that there will be errors in milling;
• low level of reliability;
• the inability to process large-sized wooden blanks.

But you should not refuse this option, because it is the basis of technologies for creating more advanced and complex turning tools. To correctly calculate the design, determine for yourself the necessary operational properties and technical characteristics.

The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe

The technology in this case is complicated only by the correct choice of workpieces, which must not only have a level of hardness of the cutting edge that meets the requirements, but also be correctly installed in the retainer - holder.

Note! In the absence of tool steel, you can get by with improvised means. After the stage ends pre-training, the material is additionally hardened.

1. The bars have become reinforcing - it is better to use options that have factory initial dimensions and a square cross-sectional shape.
2. Files or rasps - worn workpieces will do, but material with deep chips or cracks is not allowed to be used.
3. Automobile springs - before using these blanks, they will need to be squared, which not everyone can do. For this purpose, a welding machine is useful. An autogen will do.

Turning: A - with a semicircular blade for rough turning; B - with a straight blade for fine turning; B - shaped; G - machine through passage

On the machine, it is possible to provide for the possibility of changing cutters. To do this, a special modification of the housing is made with the necessary mounting parts. These elements must be strong enough to withstand the loads during operation and at the same time maintain the original location of the edge part.

When the cutter is made, it is sharpened, and the cutting edge is hardened. After the cutting part has become hot, the cutter must be dipped in engine oil. With the help of slow hardening technology, the surface of the product can be made as hard as possible. In this case, the heated billet should cool down in a natural mode.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpeners: drawings and recommendations

To make a sharpener from an engine from a washing machine with your own hands, you can limit yourself to a motor from an old Soviet design, for example, CMP-1.5 or Riga-17. A power of 200 watts will be enough, although you can increase this figure to 400 watts by choosing a different engine option.

The list of parts needed for a do-it-yourself grinding machine includes:

• tube (to carve a flange);
• nut for fixing the stone on the pulley;

• metal for making protective cover for sharpening with your own hands (thickness 2, -2.5 mm);
• grinding stone;
• electrical cable cord having a plug;
• starting device;
• a corner made of metal or a bar of wood (for the bed).

The flange diameter must match the hub dimensions on the motor. In addition, this part will be worn grindstone. On the one hand, this element is carved. The indent should be equal to the thickness of the circle multiplied by 2. The thread is applied with a tap. On the other hand, the flange must be pressed onto the motor shaft by heating. Fixation is carried out by bolting or welding.

Useful advice! The thread should go in the opposite direction relative to the direction in which the rotational movements of the motor are performed. Otherwise, the nut that fixes the circle will unwind.

The working winding of the motor is connected to the cable. It has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. The starting winding for a do-it-yourself knife sharpener will have 30 ohms. Then the bed is made. It is recommended to take a metal corner for her.

Some people need grinding machine for chainsaw chains. You can make such a design with your own hands from a bed with 3 supports, two spindles, a stepper motor (2 kW) and pipes used as holders.

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands

Creating a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands is the most important step in creating a machine, since this design will accommodate the main parts of the equipment in the form of:

• power unit;
• control block;
• cutting component;
• other components.

Support frame on the table for hand tool acts as a do-it-yourself guide for a circular saw. It controls the direction in which the cut is made and fixes the workpiece.

A sawmill is a modification of a circular saw. The only difference is that the disc is placed at the bottom. The do-it-yourself function of the bed is assigned to the design of the table for a circular saw. A power unit, a block, a fixing disk and a control system are also installed here.

At the design stage for a circular saw with your own hands drawings, some factors should be taken into account:

1. The depth to which the material will be cut - the indicator depends on the geometry of the disk.
2. The power level of the electric motor - a specific indicator of 800 watts will be enough.
3. Mounting area of ​​the control system - the control should be located as far as possible from the disk.
4. Rotational speed - the minimum allowable rate is 1600 rpm, otherwise the color will change during the cutting process.

Useful advice! If the table is made under manual version tool, it is recommended to make the tabletop metal. A sheet of metal should be equipped at the base with stiffeners.

How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

First, a tabletop is made of sheet material. Marking is applied to it in accordance with the size of the toolkit. According to this markup, cutouts are made for installing the saw.

1. Installing a parallel stop for a circular saw with your own hands, made of a wooden slat. The element is fixed on the tabletop.
2. Groove for emphasis - these elements are formed on the tabletop by milling.
3. Installation of a ruler for measurements - the installation area is located at the front edge of the cutting element. The ruler will be used to control the dimensional parameters of the blanks.
4. Installation of clamps is an additional component for fixing the workpiece.

For a do-it-yourself circular saw machine, you will need legs. They are mounted taking into account the dimensions of the tabletop made of wooden beams with a section of 4x4 cm. Use is allowed. To provide additional stability, stiffeners should be installed between the supports. A control unit is placed next to the workplace. Do not refuse to install RCDs and devices that protect the engine from overloads.

The technology of creating a cutting machine for wood

Manufacturing technology of a homemade cutting machine:

1. Cutting parts from a corner for frame assembly ( overall size- 120x40x60 cm).
2. Frame assembly by welding.
3. Fixing the channel (guide) by welding.
4. Installation of vertical racks (2 pcs.) on the channel (bolted connection).
5. Assembling a frame from pipes for installing an electric engine and a shaft at the required slope (45x60 cm).
6. Installation of a plate with an engine at the rear of the frame.
7. Manufacture of a shaft complete with flanges, supports and a pulley (flange protrusion height - 3.2 cm).
8. Installation of supports, bearings and pulleys on the shaft. Bearings are fixed on the upper frame in recesses made in the plate.
9. Mounting the box with electric circuit to the bottom of the frame.
10. Installation of the shaft in the area between the racks. Diameter - 1.2 cm. A sleeve with the minimum possible clearance must be put on over the shaft, so that these elements slide.
11. Welding a rocker arm made of a channel (80 cm) onto a bushing. The size of the arms of the rocker should be within the following ratio: 1:3. From the outside it is necessary to fix the springs.

Useful advice! Experts advise using an asynchronous motor. Such a motor is not particularly demanding. For networks with 3 phases, a motor with a power of 1.5-3 kW is required, for single-phase networks this figure must be increased by a third. You will need to connect with a capacitor.

It remains to mount the motor on the short arm of the rocker arm. A cutting element is placed on the long arm. The shaft and motor are connected by a belt drive. For the countertop, you can use a sheet of metal, a planed board.

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video how to make a design, recommendations

good drawing drilling machine from a drill with your own hands - the main condition for acquiring essential tool. To create such a machine, you do not need to use special materials and buy additional components.

Components for the design of a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:

• bed (base);
• rotary mechanism (drill);
• supply device;
• vertically located stand for fixing the drill.

In mastering the technology of manufacturing a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, video material can be of invaluable assistance.

A guide to creating a drilling machine with your own hands (how to make the simplest design):

1. For a rack, it is better to use DPS so that the part turns out to be massive or a furniture plate with a thickness of more than 20 mm. This will negate the vibration effect of the tool. It is allowed to use the base from an old microscope or photographic enlarger.
2. The accuracy of a drilling machine from a do-it-yourself drill depends on the guides (2 pcs.). They serve as the basis for moving the block on which the drill is located. For the manufacture of guides, it is best to take steel strips. Subsequently, they will be securely screwed to the rack with screws.
3. For the block, you need to take steel clamps, thanks to which the rotational mechanism will be securely fixed to this part.

For a do-it-yourself drilling mini-machine, a rotary tool feed mechanism is required. The classic design scheme involves the use of a spring and a lever. The spring is fixed between the block and the rack.

There are many do-it-yourself devices, video material will help you understand this topic.

Features of do-it-yourself CNC milling machines

The software is considered an important component in a do-it-yourself CNC wood router. Drawings of a conventional design, subject to this condition, should include additional elements under it:

• LPT port;
• CNC block.

Useful advice! To make a copy-milling machine for wood or metal with your own hands, you can use carriages belonging to an old printer. Based on these parts, you can create a mechanism that allows the cutter to move in two planes.

Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop

At the first stage, do-it-yourself drawings are drawn up for a wood milling machine, which include information on the placement of all structural components, their dimensions, as well as methods of fixation.

Next, the support frame is assembled from pipes pre-cut into parts required size. For bonding, you need to use a welding machine. Then dimensional control is performed in order to proceed with the manufacture of the working surface.

You need to act within the framework of the following scheme:

1. Marking is applied to the plate and a countertop is cut out of it.
2. If the cutter will be placed vertically, a cutout must be made in the slab for it.
3. The spindle and electric motor are being installed. In this case, the spindle should not go beyond the plane of the working surface.
4. The limit bar is installed.

Be sure to test the machine before work. The included router should not vibrate too much. To compensate for this shortcoming, it is recommended to additionally install stiffeners.

Assembling a milling machine for metal with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade metal milling machine:

1. The column and bed are made of a metal channel. The result should be a U-shaped design, where the base of the tool acts as the lower crossbar.
2. Guides are made from the corner. The material must be ground and bolted to the column.
3. From profile pipe with a square section, guides for the console are made. Here you need to insert the pins with screwed threads. The console will be moved by a diamond-shaped car jack to a height of 10 cm. At the same time, the amplitude possibilities to the side are 13 cm, and the tabletop can move within 9 cm.
4. The working surface is cut out of a plywood sheet and fastened with a screw. Fastener heads need to be drowned.
5. On the working surface, a vise is mounted, made of a pipe with a square type of section and a metal corner, welded together. It is better to use a threaded pin as a fixing element blank.

Note! It is better to fix the rotary element in the frame so that the spindle is pointing down. For fixing, it is necessary to weld the jumpers in advance, you will need screws and nuts.

After that, you need to attach a cone (Morse 2) to the spindle and install a collet or drill chuck on it.

Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands

Do-it-yourself thicknesser drawings with a complex design involve the use of expensive components:

• bearings with increased wear resistance;
• rolled steel sheets;
• gears;
• pulleys;
• powerful electric motor.

As a result, the cost of making a homemade thickness gauge increases significantly. For this reason, many try to limit themselves to the simplest design.

Instructions for a homemade thicknessing machine for wood:

Assembling a thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands

To create a home-made thicknessing machine, you need to place a planer on a bar, fix it with a device such as clamps, while not forgetting to leave a gap.

Note! The size of the gap is set taking into account the thickness of the workpiece to be processed on the machine.

The scheme for making a thickness gauge from a planer with your own hands is very simple:

• the support beam is fixed on a convenient surface;
• the required gap size is selected by adding layers of plywood;
• on the base obtained, the construction of a thickness gauge from an electric planer is fastened with clamps.

Two clamps hold the base on the table, the other two hold the planer. After making sure that this mount is reliable, you can start using the tool.

The scheme for creating a grinding machine for wood with your own hands

1. The optimum width of the sanding belt is 20 cm.
2. The emery cloth of the tape is cut into strips.
3. The sticker of the abrasive tape is carried out end-to-end.
4. To strengthen the seam, you need to put a dense material under the bottom.
5. It is not recommended to use low-quality glue, as it will cause the material to tear along the seam.
6. The diameter of the tape roller in the center should be 2-3 mm wider than at the edges.
7. To prevent the tape from slipping, it is recommended to wind it with thin rubber (bicycle wheel).

Calibrating - grinding machines for wood belong to the group of drum structures. This category is broad and includes many types of equipment.

For the manufacture of a drum grinder for wood with your own hands, you can choose the following designs:

• surface grinding - the workpiece is processed within the same plane;
• planetary - with its help, a flat plane is formed on the workpiece;
• circular grinding - with its help, cylindrical workpieces are processed.

From the video below, you can learn how to make a grinding type machine with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself wood planer operating rules

In handmade designs planer it is very important to correctly set the equipment settings so that the errors do not exceed the permitted values:

• perpendicular - maximum 0.1 mm / cm;
• plane - 0.15mm / m.

You can familiarize yourself with the technology of making a jointer with your own hands using the video.

If, during operation, the effect of mossiness or scorching appears on the treated surface, then the cutting elements have become dull. To make the processing of parts with dimensions less than 3x40 cm more comfortable, they must be held with the help of pushers.

The curved surface of the workpiece after the completed processing indicates that the correct placement knives and work surface. These elements need to be set again.

All of these machines can be useful for home repairs or basic repairs. Therefore, their presence in the home workshop will be useful. Regardless of what the equipment of the garage will be, all machines require a careful and attentive attitude. When working, never forget about safety.

Diverse plate bending operations are an important part general works building or renovating your own home. Without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to perform them qualitatively. For one-time bending of sheet blanks, it is permissible to rent a suitable fixture from a neighbor or acquaintance. But with frequent performance of such procedures, it is more advisable to have a manual bending machine at hand. own production. If you have certain skills, tools and premises, making a homemade bending machine is not so false.

Preparation of terms of reference

Thanks to the capabilities of the Internet, you can quickly find the necessary set of drawings, and on YouTube channel even watch promotional and informational videos about the device and the principle of operation of the required unit. However, all these materials are strictly individual, and therefore were intended by their authors for specific sheet-bending operations. Therefore, before building a sheet bender with your own hands, you need to do right choice its future specifications. The main ones should be:

1. maximum width of bent metal, mm;
2. the greatest thickness of the workpiece, mm;
3. desired range of bending angles;
4. overall dimensions of the mechanism (length, width, height);
5. required bending accuracy.

The direct choice of the limit values ​​of the listed parameters depends on the conditions of use of the machine, which will bend sheet metal products. In particular, when constructing a roof, you will most likely have to deal with galvanized sheet or steel with a thickness of no more than 1 mm. When processing copper, an even thinner sheet or strip is more often used, and when making fences and railings with your own hands, on the contrary, the thickness of the metal can be 2-3 mm.

When choosing the optimal width of a workpiece - sheet or strip - one should proceed from the fact that the width of the part rarely exceeds 1000 mm (in extreme cases, adjacent workpieces can then be joined into a fold using the same machine).

The most difficult point of the technical task is the choice of the optimal range of metal bending angles. If everything is clear with the upper limit - 180 °, then the lower value should be chosen very competently. A natural consequence of bending most sheet metals in a cold state is springback - a spontaneous decrease in the actual bending angle due to the elastic properties of the deformed metal. Springing depends on:

How to choose the kinematic scheme of the bending machine

The most accessible for do-it-yourself machine tools in which sheet metal will bend as a result of the rotation of the movable traverse. The principle of operation of such a machine is as follows.

The workpiece to be bent is installed on the guide plane of the lower table of the machine and fixed on the stop, which is fixed on the support frame of the device (it is desirable to provide for the stop to be adjusted).

In the frame guides of the sheet bender, the upper traverse reciprocates, which, when moving downward, clamps the bent product with its ruler.

In front of the lower table is a swivel beam that can rotate around its axis. Turning can be done with a lever-operated handle, but a foot-operated version can be made. In the latter case, the operator's hands remain free, which facilitates the manipulation of the workpiece when it is pressed against the ruler of the upper traverse. In addition, with foot control of the bender, hands get tired less.

The set of bending tools on the upper and rotary beams can be changed. The easiest way for this purpose is to order a set of punches and dies with the required bending radii and standard seats. You will have to send all the details to the order - a ruler, clamp, etc. - which will require qualified milling work for their manufacture.

The bevel of the top beam will determine the largest value of the bend angle that the sheet metal can change its axis to.

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

1. steel channel number from 6 and above;
2. do-it-yourself kit of steel corners support frame machine;
3. thick-plate broadband steel, from which the rotary, upper and lower beams will be made;
4. fasteners in assortment;
5. a bar for the manufacture of a manual lever drive for turning the beam.

To facilitate the work, you can also use a bench vise, guides from a decommissioned lathe, as well as massive hinges from steel entrance doors.

By a similar principle, you can make a homemade sheet bender using wooden details. True, he will be able to bend only aluminum and sheet steel (up to 1 mm thick), but in many cases these capabilities are quite enough, and the laboriousness of building a sheet bender with his own hands will noticeably decrease. In particular, there is no need for welding operations. It should be noted that the working parts of such a machine should only be made of hardwood (pine, spruce are not suitable).

Having decided on the principle of operation of the sheet bender, you can also search for suitable drawings. However, a person with an engineering education will be able to make a set of drawings on their own. The advantage of this option is that a number of working drawings are quickly modified and processed for specific capabilities and source materials.

The drawings of the sheet bender must take into account the way it is installed. For small units, for example, the bending machine can be mobile or even portable. Otherwise, you will have to make a stable base using welding, otherwise the excessive mobility of the machine will reduce the accuracy of work on it.

When the machine is ready, it is necessary to check its performance and accuracy. To do this, bend a test strip of thick cardboard of the required thickness. If the bend is made correctly, then the height of the strip shelves will be the same, and there will be no traces of the deforming tool on its surface.

The production of metal parts requires special equipment capable of creating a force that forms the shape of an object. Alternatively, you can purchase relatively inexpensive devices. However, it is not difficult to independently make almost any machine for cold forging with your own hands.

What is required for this we will consider in the course of our article.

Of course, if the budget allows, you can not particularly complicate your life and buy universal equipment for cold forging metal. Moreover, such a machine in itself combines all the individual manual devices. But the rather small cost of such a workbench makes it inaccessible to many home workshops.

What do-it-yourself cold forging tools can be made and what to produce on them?

To establish your own metalworking workshop, the main six machines are quite enough: a bender, a twister, a flashlight, a volume, a snail, and a wave.

These homemade machines are capable of processing the main types of materials used in cold metalworking technology: squares, rods (with a cross section of up to 14 millimeters) and a steel strip, 3-6 mm thick with a width in the range of 25 millimeters. the same operation as the factory equipment: bending, twisting or pressing without loss of quality.

Also, on a home-made manual machine, it is quite possible to produce the main elements of cold forged products: curls, volutes, baskets required for further assembly. finished products. Moreover, the forging equipment itself is compact, it can be easily placed in a garage workshop.

Learning to work with a cold forging tool is very simple. It does not require special knowledge about the properties of the metal and its further processing (annealing, tempering or hardening). The training and production process is practically safe, the equipment and materials do not work with high temperatures, and the working mechanisms are very simple.

The only drawback in cold forging metal and working on manual equipment is the possibility of marriage if mistakes are made. But the main problem is that defects are very difficult to correct. Defective elements can be corrected only by heating the metal in a furnace or on a burner.

The simplest for self-assembly will be: snails, gnicks and twisters. They do not require expensive tools. All you need is welding, a cutting tool, drawings with materials and a little understanding in mechanics.

So, how to make homemade cold forging machines with your own hands?

Assembly of different types of equipment

For the initial stage of arranging a cold metalworking workshop, three main devices will be required: a bender, a twister and a snail. What elements can be produced on them?

A bender is a device that greatly simplifies the bending of a part and the production of bends of any shape.

It easily handles rolled products in the form of steel strip and rod with dimensions of 12x12 millimeters. In addition to corner parts, the bender can create arc-shaped parts.

The twister serves to twist a long workpiece around its axis into a longitudinal spiral. In hot forging, there is a similar tool - a crank. The twister is similar to this device in its design. This is a frame on which a collar with a rotating head and a slider are fixed, which limits and fixes the desired length of the part. Parts twisted on such equipment are a frequent element used to assemble window grilles, fences, railings and other types of fences.

If you install additional devices in the form of a shaft on the twister, then it will be able to produce voluminous baskets.

The snail is perhaps the most famous manual cold forging machine. Volute and various parts twisted around the axis are produced on its conductor. The assembled device consists of a kind of frame (round / square), a jig (spiral) and a roller with a manual drive in the form of a lever are fixed on it. By pressing the drive lever and feeding the workpiece, any type of spiral can be twisted without problems.

The main thing in the manufacture of manual equipment for cold forging of metal is the observance of three basic principles:

1. The length of the lever drive is calculated so that sufficient force is applied to the metal.
2. It is best to make the components of the installations prefabricated or movable, then it will be possible to easily adjust the dimensions of the elements produced.
3. All parts of the conductors are made with a sufficient margin of safety, and the connections must be of high quality.

Observing such principles, it is quite feasible to manufacture normal metalworking equipment with excellent performance.

The listed three installations with the mechanism working manually, allow to make the majority of names of production without a metal warming up.

Gnutik assembly

This cold forging machine has a wide range of applications. With it, you can bend parts of any configuration. The device is quite simple, it consists of a base on which the rollers are mounted, a wedge (setting bend) and control levers. The machine itself can be made in a vertical or horizontal design.

It is easier to make a horizontal type on your own.

• It is necessary to prepare a frame in which mounting holes are drilled for mounting the rollers, wedge and lever.
• The wedge should move along the bed (controlled by pressing the lower lever). Its position should be interchangeable, so it will be possible to adjust the angle and steepness of the bend. To do this, it is better to make it on a screw thread, screwing in which changes the distance of the wedge.
• The upper arm is used to shape the workpiece into an arc shape.

After watching the video, you can understand how such a machine works and the principle of its device

Making a snail

The photo shows the main parts of the snail cold forging fixture. The formation of the element occurs due to a special conductor, curled with a spiral (snail). This part, preferably, should be two-part. The manufacture of the machine is as follows.

• A frame is prepared in a round or square shape. For its manufacture, it is better to use metal 5-6 mm.
• Holes are drilled in the base for fastening the conductor (its two parts) and the working lever.
• A rotating roller is mounted on the side, which will set the movement of the workpiece.
• The lever must have sufficient strength, it can be made from an appropriate profile or pipe (with thick walls).
• The conductor is made of thick metal, curved in a spiral. It has holes for mounting bolts.

Below are photos of the drawings of the conductor and the device itself.

For a more understandable principle of operation of such equipment, watch the video provided:

Made manual machines for cold forging with their own hands with such a design, they are quite capable of bending bars and squares of various sections up to 14 millimeters.

It is worth remembering that a greater force on a thick workpiece can be created using a longer lever, so an additional extension for such a drive can be provided.

There are other variants of the snail. For example, with a drive in the form of a gate located in a horizontal plane. Schematic drawings of such a device are shown in the photo below.

How to make a twister

The twister (or torsion bar) has a horizontal arrangement of parts. It consists of a frame on which a knob with a rotating head is attached, and a slider that rigidly fixes the workpiece and regulates the length of the product.

• First you need to prepare a workbench (table) where the device will be fixed.
• The bed can be made from a strong I-beam or any other material that has sufficient strength. Its length is selected depending on the parameters of the processed workpieces.
• A slider is made on the frame. Its lower part should move along the device and be fixed in the desired position. Bolt holes can be drilled for mounting. The part where the workpiece will be inserted can be made to fit its size ( through hole) or made from a vise.
• A rotating head collar can also be made to fit a specific workpiece or use a lathe chuck (small sizes)
• The unit is mounted on the table so that the edge of the table does not interfere with turning the knob.

As in the case of a snail, the length of the lever determines the force that is applied to the metal being processed.

If to make additional mount for the shaft, then on such a torsion bar it will be possible to produce volumetric baskets by twisting a rod onto a template.

The principle of operation of the machine is shown in the video:

After studying the information, you can also make devices such as a wave (wave-like elements), a flashlight (baskets) or a volumetric (volumetric elements with parts curved in different planes).

If possible, then some of these machines can be made electrically driven by installing an engine with the appropriate power for this.

What can you add to this material from your personal experience for the manufacture of equipment for cold forging? How problematic is it to make a cold forging machine with your own hands and what materials to use? Join the discussion in the comments to the article and share your best practices.