Finishing of a frontal board a roof from a natural tile. Installation of ceramic tiles

The laying of ceramic tiles is justified by the outstanding technical and aesthetic qualities of the material, the reliability of which is confirmed by almost a century of operation. Created by sintering natural ingredients, natural tiles resist the entire range of atmospheric factors. However, in addition to the advantages, the coating, which is “hard” in terms of price and weight, also has disadvantages, which consist in the laborious laying of piece elements and the need for scrupulous implementation of technological requirements.

Preparatory stage and calculations

Installation of ceramic tiles can be divided into two standard stages. The first of them consists in careful preliminary calculation and thorough preparation, the second part of the work is direct installation.

How much tiles do you need to buy?

Bath roofing made of natural tiles can have one, two, four or more slopes located at different angles. Tiles are mounted with an overlap overlap, the size of which depends on the steepness of the roof. The value obtained by subtracting from the total length of the ceramic element the length required to form the overlap is the usable length of the material. The useful width is indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documents.

Based on the area obtained as a result of multiplying these “useful” parameters, the number of pieces required to equip one meter of roof is calculated. But it is better to calculate the number of horizontal rows and vertical counterparts by dividing the corresponding roof values by the usable width and length. All results obtained are rounded up with the expectation that whole ceramic parts will need to be trimmed.

Calculated? Now add another row of tiles to the result, as it should be when working with building ceramics, for “battle” and trimming. Do not forget, using the same values, to calculate the number of additional parts for arranging the gables and the ridge.

Calculation of material for waterproofing

Proper installation of natural tiles on roofs with a slope of up to 22º is carried out with the obligatory laying of a waterproofing layer. It is recommended to use a rolled membrane material laid with overlapping sheets of 10 cm, with overlaps along the lines of gable and pitched overhangs of 15 cm, with overlaps through protruding corners of 15-20 cm. The amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of the slopes by 1.4.

Note. To ensure ventilation, the waterproofing membrane is laid indented from the ridge line by 30 cm. The ridge will need to be equipped with a special insulating tape.

The overflow will need to be left in the chimney passage area and in the wall junction area if the bathhouse is attached to a residential building.

Calculations of rafter legs and battens

The approximate weight of natural tiles per 1 m² of roofing is 40 kg. You also need to add the snow load characteristic of a particular region. Therefore, the truss system must be powerful enough. But for its construction it is not necessary to use a thick beam, it is enough to reduce the installation step of the rafter legs. The best choice for a rafter leg is a beam with a rectangular section with side dimensions of 75 and 150 mm, a little more and less. It is recommended to mount trusses after 90 cm, even better after 60 cm.

For the construction of the crate, you need to buy a beam with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm, a rectangular analogue of 40 × 60 mm is also suitable.

Important. The slats laid along the cornices should be approximately 15-20 mm wider than ordinary elements. This is necessary to form a uniform slope plane, because the previous elements overlap.

The number of rows of sheathing is equal to the number of horizontal rows of shingles plus one row running along the cornice overhang.

How much fasteners will be required?

For fastening, galvanized screws and special clamps are needed. The elements of the ceramic coating are fixed in areas of increased wind load. Without fail, the bottom row is attached, passing along the line of the eaves, a row along the pediment and the ridge. If the installation of a roof made of natural tiles is carried out on a steep roof with a slope of more than 50º, ordinary elements are additionally fixed in a checkerboard pattern. In this embodiment, one fixed tile will hold the upper and lower "neighbors".

An important stage of preparation is verification

Before the construction of the crate for ceramic coating, in order to avoid annoying mistakes and distortions, the dimensions of the truss system to be equipped must be measured.

At this stage, you can adjust the direction of the horizontal gratings by placing them in a fan-like manner. In such situations, the distance between the laths is increased towards the gable with a larger size.
Deviations in the vertical direction are eliminated by an identical fan method, by forming a slight backlash of the elements in the required direction.

Start checking with diagonals along the slopes. If their sizes do not match, you need to measure each side of the pitched rectangle separately.

If roofing ceramics are mounted on top of a waterproofing underlay and insulation, the roof will need to be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first gap will be between the thermal insulation and the waterproofing membrane, the second between it and the coating. So natural ceramic tiles, wooden parts and insulation will be freed from excess moisture, so they will serve for a long time.

The first ventilation gap can be formed both by installing a crate and by laying a 5 cm thick edged board along the ridge. If a diffusion film is used as a waterproofing material, there is no need to form this ventilation duct.
The second gap for ventilation is provided by the installation of a counter-lattice.

The entire area is covered with waterproofing flooring. Laying the canvas starts from the bottom, moving in the direction of the ridge. They are laid in a horizontal direction with a mandatory overlap and fastening of the sheets between themselves with a stapler or adhesive tape. It will be necessary to fix the flooring around the perimeter in increments of 20 cm.

Note. Between the bars, the flooring should sag slightly. Approximately 3 cm. Due to the sagging, the accumulated condensate and moisture will drain into peculiar recesses, without lingering on building materials.

Next, the installation of the crate under the tiles is carried out according to the calculations described above. After the installation of this element of the roof structure, control measurements are once again carried out. The correct installation of the crate in the plane is verified. If deviations of more than 5 mm are detected, alignment is performed by lining wooden elements under the poles.

Installation of ceramic elements

In order to ensure that the laying of natural tiles does not entail the destruction of the truss system due to intensive movement along it, all the required material is immediately raised to the roof. But you can’t put a heavy box with tiles on the rafters, you need to lay them out in piles of 5 or 6 pieces, evenly distributing the batches over the roof.

First of all, without fixing, lay out rows along the ridge and cornice. If it is not possible to lay only whole parts in a row, cutting of ceramic elements is carried out on the ground with a grinding tool with a stone cutting disc.
Through the directions obtained as a result of the initial layout, the lines of the upcoming laying of vertical columns are marked with a dyeing lace. Be sure to outline the gable line and then the lines every 3-5 vertical rows.
The unfolded tiles are fixed as indicated by the installation instructions for natural tiles, attached to the product by the manufacturer. According to the rules, they start from the lower right corner of the roof, moving in a row to the left, then up.
Installation and fastening of additional parts for the ridge and gables is being carried out. Before mounting the shaped elements, an edged board is installed on the ridge, located with an edge. It should not come into contact with ridge tiles. At the intersection points of the gable and ridge parts, they must be adjusted to each other by trimming.

Installing roof tiles is no easy task. It is advisable to entrust it to professional performers. But even in the case of ordering laying, the owner needs to know the sequence and purpose of construction operations in order to timely identify technological violations.

For four thousand years, a person has been using such roofing material as. During this time, the technology of its installation has been verified to the smallest detail. There is no doubt about its reliability even when it comes to roofing work in a country with such difficult climatic conditions as Russia. Moreover, modern materials - fastening systems, waterproofing films help to make the work easier, and the end result of high quality.

Preliminary stage of work

Before starting the installation of natural tiles, it is necessary to find out whether the house and the truss system are ready to withstand its weight? If we are talking about a new project where this roofing material was originally laid, then there will be no problems. In the event that reconstruction is underway, it is better to find out with specialists whether the load-bearing structures can withstand the weight of 50-60 kg per square meter of roofing.

Natural clay tiles are recommended for roofs with a slope of 15-45 degrees, if the slope is 45-60 degrees, then additional fastening will be required. Installation work begins only after laying the waterproofing on the rafters and creating the crate. Modern membranes will protect the roofing pie from accidental moisture. The step of the crate is chosen depending on the size of the tiles used.

Laying natural tiles

Installation of natural tiles is carried out from right to left and from bottom to top, but first lay out the top and bottom rows without fixing. The extreme tiles should lie flush with the frontal board, if this does not happen, then it will be possible, knowing about the problem, to correct it due to a small play at each of the joints. For ease of installation, vertical lines are beaten off every 3-4 tiles.

The first row of tiles is attached to the crate with galvanized steel self-tapping screws and clamps. On triangular slopes, the bottom row must first be laid out, and then the vertical row in the center. It is better to close the gable overhangs with special side tiles, and use additional fasteners on complex nodes. In this case, it will delight with its impeccable appearance and reliability for at least 100-150 years. Ridge tiles are laid with the help of special fasteners, which are fixed on the ridge beam. Be sure to use aeroelements, thanks to which the ventilation of the under-roof space will be impeccable.

All photos from the article

This article focuses on methods for decorating roof overhangs. We will figure out how the installation of the frontal board is carried out, and what dimensions it should have. In addition, we will find out what material can be used for filing overhangs and how to fix it correctly.

Overhangs design elements

First, let's get acquainted with the terminology. So, frontal board: what is it and what role does it play in the roofing system?

This is just a longitudinal shield that covers the ends of the rafters or the protruding part of the crate above the gables of the attic. In addition to it, the part of the roof that interests us includes:

Element	Short description
Rafter	A board parallel to the slope of the roof (or a wooden I-beam), mounted in a vertical position and providing rigidity to the roofing pie
crate	Perpendicular to rafters or beams that serve as the basis for laying roofing material
Waterproofing	A layer of water-impervious film that prevents condensation from getting to the rafters and the insulation laid between them
dropper	Metal or polymer profile, which prevents condensate flowing down the waterproofing layer from getting onto the frontal board
eaves plank	A profile that directs rain or melt water flowing down the roof into the gutter

Note: a dripper is needed only when attaching the gutters to a long hook to the crate.
Fastening the drain to the frontal board makes it unnecessary.

When using flexible roofing material (bituminous shingles, ondulin), instead of lathing, a solid shield is assembled along the rafters - plank, plywood or made of OSB.

Frontal board: close acquaintance

Dimensions

At the ends of the overhangs, the rafters are usually cut vertically. As a result, the length of the end is slightly larger than the transverse dimension of the rafter. Typically, the dimensions of the frontal roof board are made such that they completely or with a slight shortfall overlap these ends. The typical transverse width of the board is 180 - 250 mm.

What should be its thickness?

Let's briefly think about the mode of operation of the roof element:

It does not perform load-bearing functions. The maximum load is limited by the weight of the complete gutters;
It does not experience significant wind loads - simply because of its small own area.

That is why lumber with a thickness of 22 - 30 mm is used as a frontal board. The increase in thickness will only and exclusively lead to some increase in costs.

Treatment

In a properly assembled roof, wooden elements are reliably isolated from moisture, which allows you not to worry about their reliable hydrophobization. Exception - processing: it is necessary in any case.

Why?

The antiseptic prevents not only the appearance of mold and blue, but also insect attacks. Woodworms can cause serious damage to wooden structures in a few years;
All modern wood preservatives contain flame retardant additives that reduce the flammability of the structure. No, they will not eliminate the possibility of fire completely; however, it is quite possible that it is the fire retardant that will allow you to put out the fire that has begun in time, delaying the spread of fire.

If for some reason the front board is planned to be left completely open, its wood needs protection from water. The simplest and cheapest way to do it is double impregnation with drying oil heated in a water bath. Alternatively, drying oil can be applied cold, after which the board is heated with a building hair dryer.

Hint: heating the drying oil significantly increases the depth of its penetration into the wood.
Among other things, hot impregnation with drying oil is used to protect the wooden elements of the hulls of boats and boats.

If, when choosing a material for a frontal board, you have the opportunity to prefer one or another type of wood, larch will be the best choice for it. It is noticeably heavier than the more common pine and spruce, but it is not afraid of rot and does not absorb water even with prolonged contact with it. The price of a cube of larch is approximately 1.3-1.4 times higher than the cost of a cubic meter of pine board.

Fastening

Traditionally, for fastening the frontal board to the ends of the rafters, ordinary galvanized nails are used, driven through the board into the end of the rafters. The length with a board thickness of 22 - 30 mm is 100 mm.

As always, there are a number of subtleties and nuances.

A notch on the nails close to the point will strengthen the fastening;
Nails can be replaced with galvanized self-tapping screws; however, the quality of fastening will not improve from this. In addition, the likelihood of splitting the rafter will increase;
Black phosphated screws should not be used. With prolonged contact with moisture, they will decorate the overhangs with rusty streaks; in addition, this type of fastener does not have a special mechanical strength.

How is the frontal board attached to the ends of the crate from the side of the gable? Exactly the same, but with a little addition. Since fastening to one crate does not provide sufficient rigidity, from below, between every second - every third board of the crate and the front, an additional piece of bar or board is hemmed, making the connection T-shaped.

Another special case is fastening to a wooden I-beam.

Reference: wooden I-beams are an OSB strip glued between two bars with longitudinal grooves selected in them.

Obviously, butt-joining the front board to the I-rafters with butt nails is a bad idea. You cannot drive a nail into OSB, and the small size of the bar can cause it to split when wedged with fasteners.

To solve this problem, the filing of board segments is again used, but already parallel to the rafters. The board is hemmed to the I-beam OSB with self-tapping screws, after which it is used to connect the parts with the same galvanized weaving nails.

LLC "RSK 24" specializes in the design, installation and repair of roofs of residential, administrative and industrial buildings. Our services are available to residents of Moscow and Moscow Region (private, legal entities). We work on a contractual basis and fulfill orders of any complexity.

With a technical and economic comparison of options, a tiled roof has a fairly high cost. This can be counterbalanced by the fact that such a roof is not only extremely practical, durable, but also capable of highlighting and emphasizing the status of the owner of the building. When installing roofs, two types of natural tiles are used:

ceramic, made by molding from special grades of clay, followed by firing at a temperature of about 1000 ° C;
sand-cement, molded from a mixture of sand and cement.

In terms of quality and durability, both types of tiles are comparable to each other, but sand-cement tiles are several times cheaper.

Advantages of natural tiles

This material is characterized by:

environmental friendliness - consists entirely of natural ingredients;
low thermal conductivity - in winter the roof will keep the house warm, in summer - cool;
water resistance;
frost resistance;
decorative;
low noise conductivity - the roof will not miss the sound of falling hail and raindrops;
long service life - 100 years or more;
simple repair with replacement of damaged elements.

Material manufacturers

Natural tiles are a classic roofing option in the vast majority of European countries. Therefore, it is no coincidence that the main manufacturers and suppliers of this material are the enterprises of Germany (CREATON AG, BRAAS), Belgium (EURONIT), France, Italy. Today, branches of companies from these countries are located in many other countries, including Russia.

Roof technology of natural tiles

Roofing works using natural tiles are carried out on the basis of a previously developed project, one of the main sections of which is the calculation of the truss system. This is necessary in order to create a solid foundation that can withstand the weight of the tiled carpet, taking into account wind and snow loads.

Roof installation includes:

the device of the truss system with the condition of creating a slope of at least 10 degrees;
installation of the crate;
laying a layer of film waterproofing;
installation of a counter-lattice with ventilation gaps;
laying tiles of natural tiles in horizontal rows, starting from the lower right edge of the slope.

Galvanized screws and special clamps must be used as fasteners. Installation work is completed by installing the ridge, additional end elements, checking the tightness of the valleys.

For independent laying of natural tiles, it is necessary to have special theoretical training, to have practical experience. In addition, working at height is quite specific and dangerous. That is why, if you want to have a roof made of natural tiles, you should not save on small things - only specialists will lay expensive material so that the roof will serve properly for more than a hundred years.

If you need to quickly and efficiently lay a tile coating on a residential building, cottage or industrial facility, use the services of specialists from RSK 24 LLC. We will develop a project and install a natural tile on the basis of a previously concluded contract professionally, quickly, with quality assurance for all types of work.

Check out the prices for our services:

№	Name of works	unit of measurement	Cost of work without material
1	Installation of frame scaffolding	m2	from 80 rub.
2	Antiseptic materials	m2	from 25 rub.
3	Installation of the truss system	m2	from 250 rub.
4	Vapor barrier installation	m2	from 50 rub.
5	Board filing	running meters	from 350 rub.
6	Installation of insulation 200 mm	m2	from 80 rub.
7	Installation of waterproofing	m2	from 50 rub.
8	Installation of counter battens	m2	from 70 rub.
9	Installation of a step crate	m2	from 110 rub.
10	Installation of natural tiles	m2	from 500 rub.
11	Assembly of accessories	running meters	from 180 rub.
12	Manufacturing, hemming of the cornice	running meters	from 350 rub.
13	Gutter installation	running meters	from 300 rub.
14	Downpipe installation	running meters	from 300 rub.
15	Installation of snow retention	running meters	from 300 rub.
16	Valley device	running meters	from 250 rub.
17	Installation of eaves, end strips	running meters	from 180 rub.
18	Installation of connections to the wall / pipe	running meters	from 180 rub.
19	Mounting skates	running meters	from 220 rub.

If you have ever considered a solid clay tile roof, you probably wondered: what are all the shards on? Do they take off for a while? How many people do you need to install natural tiles at such a height, and can one or two really do it? And does skill and experience play a big role in such a process?

Such questions always arise among those who decide on this beautiful and age-old roofing. Indeed, with fragile modern counterparts, everything is more or less clear: cut, stick, fix with a screw - and you're done. And what to do with elements as heavy in weight as those of ceramic tiles, what to fasten them for and how to ensure the safety of people below?

Yes, of course, from century to century, roofing masters passed on and improved their experience, but they also baked shards individually and by hand. And modern manufacturers not only set up large-scale production, but also completely changed the approach to installing tiles, for which they showed ingenuity and added special accessories.

Where to start then? We will now try to illustrate the whole process in as much detail as possible.

Let's start with the most important thing - design. In addition to the stingray tiles themselves, you will need waterproofing substrates, an eaves overhang and a ridge with a valley:

Think in advance which of these elements you will need, how many tiles will go to the slopes (calculate by area, and 9-15 shards are usually consumed per 1 square meter).

And also decide right at this stage whether you will use the attic space as a living space in the future, because the very device of the roofing pie depends on this:

Stage II. Assembling the truss system

Competent and high-quality installation is one of the most important conditions for the durability of a tiled roof. Let's look at its main stages. Let's start with preparatory work.

Before laying the tiles, be sure to check the geometry of the roof structure, measure the diagonals and compare their lengths. All irregularities must be leveled, because tile locks have an extremely small range of motion.

Those. you won’t be able to fix flaws with the help of the roofing itself, unlike a soft roof that can go around any radius.

Therefore, arm yourself with a two-meter rail or cord, and check all planes. The deviation should not be more than 5 mm along a length of 2 m. Now, for convenience, lay out the tiles in piles of five or six pieces on opposite slopes to create a uniform load on the rafters.

If you have decided on a roofing pie, proceed to the device of the truss system. The optimal pitch of the rafters is up to 75 cm, because natural tiles have a significant weight.

The crate is the base on which the tiles rest, so it is important to correctly calculate the pitch of the crate so that you get an integer number of tiles on the roof. Therefore, using a level, make sure that the beam is located strictly on a horizontal surface. Use coniferous beams, without passing knots and wane. For rafters that are installed in increments:

no more than 75 cm, take bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
exceed 90 cm, bars need 40 by 50 mm;
if the pitch of the rafters reaches 110 cm, then the bars should be 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50 in size.

To make the correct marking of the rows, a marking cord is used. It is pulled according to the marks made.

Especially carefully consider the location of the counter-lattice where the roof window will be located:

Now proceed with the installation of a cornice strip or drip, the task of which is to drain condensate and prevent wooden structures from getting wet.

Installing drips is generally the simplest of all installations:

Stage III. Arrangement of waterproofing and battens

Once the base is ready, proceed to the waterproofing device:

Step 1 On both sides of the valley, nail the bars to the rafter legs.
Step 2. Lay out the waterproofing membrane on top of the counter-lattice, always with the inscription and the front surface up.
Step 3. Cut it along the edge of the cornice overhang with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it, starting from the lower right corner, and fix it with a stapler, aligning it with the dropper. Double-sided tape will help you with this.

Here's what it all looks like in practice:

Now fill the counter-lattice directly to the rafters, over the membrane, with nails in increments of about 30 cm. Cover the ventilation gap under the eaves with light with a perforated ventilation tape.

To find out the optimal position of the lower support battens, you need to try on the tiles from the bottom row and the gutter bracket. The beam of the supporting crate should be fixed at a distance of 32 to 39 cm from the bottom edge:

At this stage, it is very important to properly waterproof the gable overhangs:

By the way, in order to make the gable overhangs beautiful, special side tiles are attached to them.

You can also resort to the traditional method by arranging the pediment with carved boards, which are also called prichelins. They just need to be treated with an antiseptic and protected with a metal apron.

Stage IV. Gutter installation

Now install the gutter onto the pre-mounted mount. Fasten the drain pipe clamp to the wall of the building and assemble the elbows with the connecting elements.

Close the ends of the gutter on the gables with a universal end cap so that the gutter does not interfere with the installation of the lower gable tiles.

And connect the straight elements of the gutter with a docking element and close it from the inside with the help of clamps that are attached to the additional crate:

Stage V. Working with the valley

Lay the valleys, starting from the cornice overhang, from the bottom up. After laying, it can be trimmed by 3-4 cm to prevent the groove in the upper part from slipping.

If you need to choose the exact size of the valley, then follow this simple principle:

if the length of the valley is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and when unfolded, about 55 cm.
if the valley is long enough, more than 4 meters, then in the expanded state the steel sheet must be at least 66 cm wide.

Fix the valley to the crate with two screws. Cut the paws on both sides for a tight fit, secure with self-tapping screws, and glue their joint with sealing tape.

Install a self-adhesive, water-repellent foam strip on each edge of the valley groove.

On both sides of the valley, along the entire cornice overhang, an overhang air element is attached, which should not go into the valley more than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, otherwise it will trap debris, fallen leaves and snow falling there.

Make sure that the visible part of the valley is at least 13 and 15 cm. The fact is that if the groove is completely covered with tiles, then rainwater will accumulate in it.

Stage VI. Laying roof tiles

So, now that everything is ready, try on the gable tile on the gable overhang, which should lie with a gap of 1 cm from the frontal board.

On the crate, mark the left edge of the gable tiles, and to the left of it, mark the position of future columns after 90 cm, at the rate of 30 cm per column.

With the help of laces, apply this markup to the crate. Now freely lay out the lower first row of tiles, while carefully checking the position of each third tile according to the marks made earlier.

The support spike, which will rest on the frontal board, must be knocked down with a hammer, as in this photo master class:

Now fasten each tile of the lower row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the ridge, and lay out the first column of the gable tile along the previously marked vertical line. At the same time, fasten each tile in the upper part with two screws.

After that, lay out the tiles on the slope, from bottom to top along the vertical markings applied to the crate:

To move on a tile roof, you only need a safety harness - you can step on everywhere. Start laying and marking tiles on hip and hip roofs from the middle of the slope. To do this, you need to find the middle of the triangle: just lay out a vertical row of tiles from the very top, right in the center, and now lay the bottom row.

After that, mark the vertical rows where you can, and lay the tiles in this way from the bottom up, in rows, starting from the middle of the slope towards the ridges.

Stage VII. Fixing tiles with different methods

Now let's talk about fixing tiles. Up to 60 degrees, most of the tiles do not need to be fastened at all; only the bottom row on the overhang, the upper ridge rows and the side gable ones are necessarily fixed.

They also fix all the trimmed tiles, which are usually located on the valley, ridges and adjoin the walls to the skylights and hatches. In regions with strong winds, the shards are additionally fixed with wire.

But slot tiles, which are also called castle tiles, are produced separately. It has the largest area and profiled shape, and this tile differs from others in the presence of locks.

The locks are two edges, top and side, which are superimposed on the adjacent ones, snap into place and ensure reliable tightness of the coating. In addition, such tiles have protrusions at the bottom, which, during installation, cling to the beams of the crate.

The most popular models of such tiles are double S-shaped, Dutch and S-shaped Marseilles. Most of them have sliding locks, so that the periods of the tiles can be made as wide or narrow as possible. Due to the presence of such sliding locks, the tile fits perfectly into the already existing spacing of the bars, and it does not need to be cut:

In addition, basically all tiles today are produced with two holes made for screws. They are not through, it is worth noting.

Therefore, if you decide to fix the tiles, then these holes must be drilled with a 6 mm drill and fixed in the upper part to the batten with two anti-corrosion screws 4.5 by 50 mm, and at the bottom with anti-wind clamps.

Also, if the slope has a length of more than 4.5 m, it still needs to be additionally installed ventilation tiles. This is placed in the third row, with a step of 1 meter. If the slope is more than 7 m, then the ventilation tiles are laid in two rows:

Also, ventilation tiles are needed where there are chimneys or skylights, because these create obstacles to the circulation of air under cover.

Stage VIII. Window bypass and junction waterproofing

There, natural shingles bypass skylights, you will most likely need half shingles (unless you timed everything perfectly). Lay it next to the rest and try to close the joints as much as possible.

We have prepared for you a detailed master class for waterproofing natural tiles adjoining windows and chimneys so that you can deal with all the intricacies of such work:

Here is another example of how to “fit” a window into a tiled roof:

Stage IX. Trimming tiles for a joint in a valley

To correctly lay the shingles in the valley, use the string on the groove to mark the suspension line so that the overlap of the shingles on the groove is 8-10 cm. Then cut the shingles at an angle along the marked line. Just don't use small triangular pieces of shingles that are difficult to fix.

To move the column and ensure a quality fastening, you will need a half tile. Approximate consumption - 1 piece for 2 rows:

For convenience, first number the cut tiles and remove them from the crate. For cutting tiles, we advise you to take an angle cut-off saw with a power of 2 kW and a diamond blade with a diameter of 22.23 cm, which is specially designed for dry cutting heavy concrete. Protect your eyes with goggles or your face with a respirator.

By the way, the accuracy will be achieved on a water-cooled machine. Rinse the cut tiles with water from dust and let it dry. Since you will not close the edges with anything, cover them with a cold engobe to match the color of the roof - this is sold immediately with tiles.

To properly fix the cut tiles on the ridges, take special stainless steel clamps. Such clamps are produced in two types:

anti-wind, which attract the tiles to the crate;
universal, which support the tile in weight.

Wire fasteners are screwed to a nail, which is hammered into the nearest lath. And sometimes the wire is used so thick that it itself is hammered directly into the crate instead of a nail.

Stage X. Installation of ridge tiles

To install a natural tile roof ridge, follow our detailed tutorials. Here's how the installation of the ridge on the roof of ceramic tiles:

If under such a roof you will have a residential attic, then use the air element, which has the largest cross section for ventilation - this is Figarol. If only a cold attic is located in the under-roof space, then any other air element will provide ventilation.

To install ridge shingles, bend the timber holders so that when installing the timber, the distance from the top edge of the timber to the top edge of the rafter leg coincides with what you measured in advance.

Trim the tiles so that the gap remains 2-3 cm. Fix the trimmed tiles to the batten with corrosion-resistant screws 4.5 and 50 mm, or directly to the spine ridge with copper wire. Special stainless steel clamps are also suitable.

You will need to put one holder each at the end and at the beginning. After that, tighten the lace and install the intermediate fastening directly on it.

Stage XI. Fixation of spinal tiles

The device of the ridges of the hip roof, start with the installation of the ridge bars. To calculate their height, you need to lay two ridge tiles on top of the privates. Start measuring from the narrow end. The ridge bar should be below the ridge tiles so that it rests on the waves nearby. Leave at least 1 cm between the spinal bar and the inner surface of the ridge tile.

Now be careful! The metal fasteners of the spine beam must be bent and installed at the beginning and end of the spine. Mark the intermediate brackets along the cord in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Install the spine beam directly into the mount and secure with nails or self-tapping screws. To ensure ventilation of the roof, cut the tiles on the ridges diagonally with a gap of 1-3 cm from the ridge beam and fix them with clamps, which are fixed with screws on the opposite side:

On a triangular slope, mark the middle of the slope on the lowest and highest crates, and from this mark to the right and left towards the ridges, lay out the bottom row. All the following rows are also laid out, starting from the center.

For ventilation of the under-roof space, you can use the Figarol roll material. Roll it out along the axial tape for the spinal beam and secure it with a conventional construction stapler, in 30 cm increments.

Remove the protective tapes from the rubber strips, press the material on the sides with a roller (just do not press the central part). In the upper part of the hip "Figarol" is laid with an overlap on another slope.

Additionally, for waterproofing, you can use Wakaflex waterproofing tape:

Start installing the initial core shingles with a slight release, and secure with two screws with plastic washers through the drilled holes in the top and middle of the shingles.

All upper spine tiles must be cut at the top of the hip along the junction line. Just lay the hip tiles on top, and its outline should be marked on the ridge tiles in order to cut them 6 cm above this line. And finally, the final work. Lay the ridge tiles on the ridge in the same way as on the hip, the only thing is that the tiles that go to the valley must be cut from both sides.

To beautifully decorate the ridge of the roof, use the initial ridge tiles. It should be installed with a small allowance, and fixed with galvanized screws 5x70 or 5x100 mm.

Stage XI. Additional roofing elements

Pay attention to the correct organization of the cornice overhang, which must meet all technical requirements: to collect water and give air access to the under-roof space for high-quality roof ventilation. And also not be devoid of aesthetic appeal.

Additionally, a ventilation tape and an eaves air element are laid here:

At the finishing stage, the ends of the slopes are covered with a protective strip made of steel sheet. Further along the length of the rafters on the edge of the cornice overhang, an air element is fixed from birds, if the rafters are less than 8 meters, and a rigid profile with perforation, the length of the rafters exceeds 8 meters. At the same time, it supports the bottom row of tiles.

As you have already seen, old and modern technologies are perfectly combined with each other, and allow you to build houses without losing the spirit of your history, while taking only the best from centuries of experience.