Installation of a surface water drainage system. Drainage of rainwater from the foundation of a house - how to make a system. Drainage of rainwater from a house

An integral part of a private house or summer cottage is a storm sewer, which provides aesthetic appearance residential building and the site adjacent to it. As well as preventing premature destruction of the foundations of buildings and the roots of plants growing on the site. For an inexperienced person in the field of "drainage" this moment it could seem dark forest... In this article, we will analyze everything point by point: the removal of surface, storm and melt water, from buildings and a site.

To create a storm sewer, it is also a drainage system surface waters requires basic knowledge in construction and data on the most landscaped area. Storm sewage is gravity, i.e. tilted and includes the following elements:

Roof drainage;
Drainage drainage system;
Collector or drainage point.

Roof drainage receives atmospheric precipitation at roof level, by means of trays, gutters, funnels and sends them to the surface drainage system.

Design of a surface water drainage system

To design you need to know:

the average amount of precipitation (both in the form of rain, and in the form of snow, melt water), you can find out this in SNiP 2.04.03-85;
roof area;
the presence of other communications and facilities in the developed area.

For the design, it is necessary to decide in what places the drainpipes will be located and how many there will be. A diagram is drawn up, which shows the height differences of the surface of the site, the structure on it. The diagram shows the locations for laying all elements of the storm sewer, including pipes, inspection wells and water discharge points. The design also calculates the amount of required materials and their costs.

Roof drainage

The material of the roof drain is varied: steel, copper, steel with polymer coating, aluminum, etc. Plastic is especially popular. It is economical, resistant to damage, is a noise-insulating material, sealed, lightweight both in weight and in installation. For the correct design of the roof drain, you will need:

Metal bracket;
Hairpin with a special nut;
Adjustable mount;
Chute bracket;
Tip;
Coupling;
Knee;
Funnel plug;
Gutter plug;
Corner element;
Funnel;
Gutter connector;
Downspout gutter;
Downpipe.

The number and type of each element depends on the perimeter of the roof and the amount of pumped liquid, because too powerful drainage system is irrational in terms of financial costs, and a weak one will not cope with the task at hand. It is necessary to find the best option. The figure shows required dimensions characteristic of middle lane Russia.

Installation of a water drainage system from the roof of the house

Installation is carried out after the development of the project of the entire drainage system, familiarization with the instructions attached by the supply store (each system has its own design features that must be taken into account). General installation sequence and work performed:

Installation begins with fastening the bracket from the side of the rafter wall or frontal board, taking into account the slope of the gutters.
Then the gutters themselves are laid using special plates and attached to each other using the method cold welding or rubber seals... Cold welding is preferred for gutter joining due to its resistance to deformation.
An additional bracket is installed in corner and funnel connections.
Installation of pipes is carried out, observing a distance of 3-4 cm from the wall. The brackets are mounted vertically at a distance of 1.5-2 m. The drain itself should be located half a meter from the ground surface.

Pro Tips:

The gutters are started from the funnel so that the edges of the gutter are below the edge of the roof.
If you use a pipe to collect from three directions of gutters (if the roof irregular shape), it is necessary to provide tees instead of standard funnels.
The distance between the brackets should be no more than 0.50-0.60 m.
It is recommended to mark the slope of the gutters in advance. For example, a rope stretched from start to end point can serve as a guide.
Plastic ebbs are mounted at a temperature of + 5 °, otherwise the material will crack when cutting. Ebb from other materials can be mounted at any ambient temperature.

Construction of a surface water drainage system

Surface water drainage system or surface drainage consists of point drainage systems and lined canals.

Point drainage systems are small wells locally connected to the roof drain. The trays are laid below the freezing level of the pipes. The installation of such a drain is similar to the installation of a roof drain. A trench is being prepared (lower than the freezing depth of pipes, you can find out everything in the same SNIP), with a slope towards the collector. Sand is filled in with a layer of 20 cm. Pipes are laid using fittings. If the sealing is observed, the pipes are filled up.

Linear ducts are of two types - open or closed, equipped with gratings or nets to retain large debris. The grilles should be predominantly made of metal, because withstand heavy loads (especially in places at the entrance to the garage).

Professional advice. For the efficiency of surface water collection, an integrated storm and point drainage device is required. In case of heavy precipitation, the bulk of the water will be removed by surface drainage.

You can see how the process of installing a surface water drainage system looks like in the video:

Deep drainage system provided if the terrain where the site is located is prone to prolonged rains. Such a system will protect the site from erosion, protect trees from premature death (due to root rot), and protect the foundation from the harmful effects of water.

Groundwater drainage system

Drainage groundwater differs from the systems described above in that it is laid at a greater depth and in the case of groundwater close to the surface of the earth, with which a basement or underground garage can be flooded. Drainage is done in combination with downpour, and the downpour pipes are laid higher than the drainage. It is necessary to understand the difference between rainfall and drainage. Storm rainfall for drainage of rain, melt water and floods, and deep drainage for drainage of groundwater and possible flooding. Surface and deep drainage are connected with the help of special nodal connections to accumulate excess water in one place and its subsequent discharge, processing or reuse... Drainages are mounted parallel to each other.

This is important: with heavy precipitation, water in large quantities for a short time passes through the storm sewer. When such a flow of water enters the groundwater drainage system, this water enters the ground from the pipes, thereby not draining it, but flooding it, that is, it begins to perform the opposite function. Therefore, the surface water drainage system should be connected to the groundwater drainage system not earlier than the places where the pipes for the drainage and not drainage pass, if you look along the direction of water flow into the systems. Drainage of the soil is carried out at the places where perforated pipes are laid. Water drainage is carried out by sealed pipes.

According to the method of groundwater withdrawal, they are divided: vertical, horizontal and combined drainage. Vertical drainage consists of vertical ribbed wells, lowered into the groundwater layer. They are equipped with pumps and filters, respectively, for the purification and pumping of groundwater outside the territory. Such a scheme is quite complicated both in installation and in operation.

Horizontal drainage consists of perforated pipes laid at the optimum pumping outlet depth in excavated ditches spilled with gravel. Ditches are dug throughout the site in the form of a herringbone.

The drainage device, regardless of the type of site, begins with the arrangement of a drainage well in the farthest part of the site, away from the house. You can use ready-made plastic wells.

In places corner joints viewing wells are arranged to facilitate the maintenance of communications.

The depth of the drainage is selected based on its tasks: if the goal is to collect groundwater to protect the basement, then the depth should correspond to the level of the basement floor; if the goal is to drain abundant waters that descend into the ground, the depth corresponds to the depth of the foundation.

The pipes are wrapped with a special material () to exclude the ingress of sand and gravel into the pipes, with which the pipe is covered with a layer of 20-30 cm. After that, the pipe can be covered with ordinary soil. Unlike vertical drainage, water collected through the holes in the pipes is discharged by gravity at a slope, and not by pumps.

Horizontal drainage is more popular than vertical or even combined drainage due to its cost-effectiveness and ease of installation.

You can read more about the structure of the groundwater drainage system in the article:

Collected water drainage

excess water is removed outside the site, into a ditch, a reservoir. If this is not possible, then a well or reservoir is arranged within the site, from where the water can be reused.

Advice:

It is recommended that the drainage be laid in ditches with V-shaped walls with a wall slope of 30 ° in the cross-section of the ditch. Width 50 cm. Recommended slope of the ditch1-3 cm per meter. Wells can be equipped with any material that does not corrode.

Service of drainage systems

Maintenance of the above systems is not difficult if they are properly designed and constructed. Main points in service:

Once every ten years, use a pump to thoroughly flush the pipes to prevent deposits on their walls.
Regular visual inspection of wells, collectors and cleaning if necessary.

The shelf life of a properly calculated, laid, maintained drainage system is on average fifty, or even much more years.

Pro Tips:

Be sure to check that the pipes are laid with a slope; the slope should be away from the house.
If it is impossible to install a gravity drainage system, a pressure outlet equipped with a pump is arranged.
Do not forget about the optimal design and the correspondence between price and quality.Very often you want more, better, but the budget does not always allow you to carry out your plans. That's why it is recommended to design, correlate the project with prices, purchase and carry out installation in accordance with the recommendations given here.

Can ordinary summer rain, harm such a solid structure as a modern private house?

It turns out that it can.

And the durability of the structural elements of the dwelling and the level of comfort of living in it depends on how well thought-out and carefully arranged the drainage system will be.

What threats does not diverted water pose?

Several types of water can affect the site, and therefore the foundation of the house:

water that flows from the roof ();
precipitation falling directly on the site;
water entering the site from the adjacent territories;
groundwater, which we do not see, but it can bring a lot of trouble.

Increased water content in top layer soil can negatively affect the growth of landscape shrubs and trees, and also negate all efforts to maintain a vegetable garden.

Humidity from basements and the foundation will rise along the walls to the residential level, which will lead to the formation of mold and destruction of the outer and inner finishing layer of the walls.

Accumulated water can contribute to ground movement. As a result, the so-called "stirring" of the house occurs.

This will be seen by cracks in the wall, falling off plaster and poorly closing doors. Worst case, perhaps premature destruction of the foundation, with all the ensuing consequences.

The biggest problems can arise during the winter:

frozen water, expanding, will lead to swelling of lawns and paved areas;
the resulting ice layer will additionally impede the drainage of newly supplied water.

To prevent this from happening, all the water from the house must be removed..

Just a few decades ago, few people thought about diverting water from their homes. They tried to build on an elevated, relative to other sites, place.

Ditches were simply dug around the house. Open drainage systems are still used in some cases.

But with the advent of new technologies, today, basically, a closed drainage system () is used.

How is the drainage system

There are several types of drainage system devices:

Open drainage system- these are, in fact, ditches dug at the lowest and highest points of the site under the slope.
They can be decorated with stone, wood, tiles or concrete.
Semi-closed- the same ditches, but covered with rubble and earth.
Closed system- perforated at a depth plastic pipes(how to bend at home is written).

The system will give the best result with plastic pipes.

Their outer layer is corrugated, which allows you to give the desired bending radius when laying.

Along the entire length, between the corrugations, on the side and top, there are perforated holes.

Through these holes, water from the ground enters the pipe, and is discharged through the lower drain to a specific place for this.

The design of the rainwater drainage system depends on:

climate features,
soil structure,
difference in elevation on the site.

In all cases, a drainage ditch is used, where drainage and storm pipes are laid. In a different way, such ditches are still called drains.

When creating a drainage system project, the slopes of the site and the level of groundwater are taken into account.

The location of future garden paths, which, due to their crushed stone cushion, will also drain water.

easier to install,

more durable

cheaper.

In their design, they have 1 or 2 partitions, which reduce the head of water flowing from one well to another. This is done to prevent water from beating out to the surface.

The presence of a special basket in the design is required.

It will additionally prevent leaves and debris washed away from the ground from entering the underground pipes.

The basket must be removed and cleaned at least 2-3 times per season.

From above, the well is closed with a lid-lattice... She may be:

cast iron,

made of plastic,

made of galvanized metal.

Cast iron- it will be best in harmony with clinker or paving slabs, which will come close to the well.

Plastic- lighter, cheaper and you can choose the desired color.

There may be drops between ground levels along the walls, but the wells of a separate system should preferably be located at the same level.

They can be located at some distance from the walls of the house.

To deliver water to them from the drainpipe, clinker gutters are used.

If desired, or, if the project implies, water intake wells can be excluded from the system.

In this case, the downpipe going from the roof, it is brought under the ground or paving level by 30-50 cm, and there it is already connected to an underground pipe leading to the catchment system.

With this design, Special attention need to be given to filters that catch debris, which are usually located on the higher tiers.

With an average size of the site, the paving area(clinker, paving slabs or just pouring with concrete) can be 500 meters or more.

This water also has nowhere to go and must be diverted. To do this, the laying is done with a certain slope, and the flowing water is collected using the same water intake wells.

Total pipe length storm system , with an average complexity of a landscape project, on average, is 200-250 meters for a plot of 6 acres.

For this, storm pipes are used.... Unlike drainage pipes, storm pipes are not perforated along their length, and their purpose is to quickly deliver water without loss.

They can be made of plastic or ceramic (read about heating the water supply inside the pipe in the article).

Ceramic, usually used in urban and park areas. For the construction of a private plot, plastic is better. Their installation and laying is much easier and the price is lower.

The central catchment tank can be made of concrete or plastic.

Concrete - more commonly used by utilities for urban catchment systems. In private construction, plastic is mainly used.

The well is a pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm and a length of 3-5 m. During construction, since the final level of the site is not yet known, it is better to install the well with a margin of 1 meter above the surface.

Later, when all earthworks are completed, the pipe is cut to the required height.

In modern cottage settlements, initially, a central drainage system is laid, which receives storm and ground water from all houses. Further, it is diverted to the system of urban Wastewater.

Lifetime

The service life of the drainage system depends from the correctness and thoroughness of its execution. Such pipes appeared about 50 years ago.

Therefore, approximately, such a warranty period is given by manufacturers. Longer tests have simply not been carried out yet.

Even if the perforated holes are protected with layers of biological tissue, over time, silting of the inner surface of the pipes will occur.

Therefore, once every 5-10 years, it is necessary to ensure that the entire system is flushed (cleaning sewer pipes hydrodynamically described in the article). Rinsed, usually with high pressure water.

In complex systems, when the pipes have a lot of branches and bends, additional manholes should be provided to facilitate maintenance and cleaning.

Why you need to drain water from the foundation of a house or structure, see the video.

Since we are talking about the arrangement of the drainage system, it means that our house is already standing (projected) and we are moving on to the improvement or landscape design... I am sincerely happy for you, Lord! I am just as happy about the fact that you are interested in the question: "How to optimally implement drainage from the site and from home? "Having dealt with this, you will save a lot of time and money.

To begin with, water drainage is a complex task and should include complementary systems:

Roof drainage system.
Surface drainage system.
If the groundwater level (GWL) at the site is high, and the house has, for example, a basement or an underground garage, there is a need to arrange a deep drainage system to drain the groundwater.

The first two systems provide for the drainage of rainwater (to eliminate the negative impact of atmospheric precipitation), drainage of melt water (melting snow) and, accordingly, prevent the appearance of the so-called. "Verkhovodki". Verkhovodka, along with groundwater, is a type of soil water, has a seasonal character and appears due to precipitation, snow melting, excessive watering, etc. As a rule, by the middle of summer it disappears altogether and can appear for a short time only after heavy rainfall.

Verkhovodka is an unpleasant problem for houses with a foundation (basement), and is also the reason for the rapid filling of a leaky septic tank ( cesspool) v spring and during heavy rainfall.

The task of a roof drainage system is to collect all the rainwater from the roofs of buildings and bring it to the desired catchment points. If you save on the roof drain, the rains will gradually break your paths, blind area, steps and will spray the foundation of the building with an even layer of mud to a height of 50 cm.

Well, if your basement is flooded, its walls are saturated with moisture, and the septic tank needs to be pumped out every 7-10 days - you cannot do without deep drainage.

What is the structure of the soil and the level of groundwater (hereinafter referred to as GWL) at your site? The answer to this question will clarify the need for underground (deep) drainage and basement waterproofing, if any. The bearers of this mysterious knowledge are usually the same people who drilled a water well for you or specialized geodetic organizations.
Where will be executed drainage of surface and ground waters? This answer will help to understand the point of water discharge (it can be the same for both surface and ground waters) and will simplify the preparation of a technical solution. Familiar to me the following options:
- Storm sewage. Typically, this is a large diameter concrete pipe. Ideally, it is buried below the freezing depth and equipped with collectors, i.e. connection points of individual storm drainage systems, for example, from your site. The drainage of storm water is carried out into natural reservoirs.
- Mixed sewerage. Removes superficial and, in fact, sewerage... Also equipped with collectors. Provides for the arrangement of wastewater treatment systems before they are discharged, for example, into water bodies.
- Drainage field (infiltration system). Equipped in the absence of the options listed above. A system that ensures uniform and natural "absorption" of storm water into the ground directly at the site of their collection.
- Neighboring section :). The simplest and quick way, which also allows you to "get closer" to your neighbors in the shortest possible time.
Will the water be drained off by gravity or do you need a drainage well and a pump? To do this, you need to answer the previous questions, as well as determine the slopes of the site. A drop point should be provided at the lowest part of the site.

If your site is located on a slope and you want to drain surface water flowing from an upstream site, then to intercept water, you should provide a system of drainage trays perpendicular to the slope in the upper part of the site (then the site looks comfortable and has a flat surface) or dig drainage ditch along the upper border of the site and connect it with the side ditches (the site looks like a medieval outpost).

What is the catchment area? This determines the capacity and, accordingly, the cost of catchment systems. Knowing the area of your site, you can independently calculate the estimated flow of rainwater, which should be removed by drainage systems. Use the program for this.
What kind of load (surface pressure) must withstand engineering structures for water drainage? I will paraphrase. Who will walk (ride) on them? The so-called depends on this. load class and still the same cost. The load class is important for both deep and surface drainage.

After you have answered the preparatory theoretical questions, you should take on the implementation. I highly recommend developing a project or just a technical solution. To do this, you should either contact the design organization (water disposal and sewerage department), or draw a sketch yourself…. and find an imperturbable builder who will undertake to bring it to life.

Ask and delve into the details! Builders in most cases install a drainage system to drain water from the roof, but they do not consider it necessary to divert this water far from the foundation. I am aware of cases where a contractor installed storm water inlets, but collected water"Led" through the bottom of the same storm water inlets into the ground at the foundation. In this case, there is no fundamental difference between water simply flowing from the roof and wetting the foundation, or flowing through the drainage system (collecting in the storm water inlet) and ... wetting the foundation. The soil adjacent to the foundation, after carrying out construction works usually looser than natural soil, so rainwater collects in the sinuses and seeps into the concrete. In winter, water freezes and destroys concrete structures.

Therefore, in addition to arranging a blind area around the house with a width of 80-100 cm, the water collected by the drainage system must be diverted into the storm sewer. This can be done by a system of drainage trays (Fig. 1) or by the device of point storm water inlets (Fig. 2).

In the first case, we have less earthworks, the system will always be available for inspection and repair. In the second case, we can lay a pipe from storm water inlets in the same trench with a drainage pipe.

In this case, in no case should the surface drainage system be connected with the drainage of the base of the house. Otherwise, rainwater will enter the drainage and vice versa - wet the foundation !!!

From above, sand traps and drainage channels are closed with removable protective and decorative grilles that prevent debris, leaves from entering the system, and do not impede the movement of pedestrians and vehicles. The linear drainage system is connected to the storm sewer through a system of vertical and horizontal outlets.

Important!!! When installing a surface drainage system, it is necessary to provide slopes (at least 0.005, i.e. 5 mm per meter of length) for the water to flow by gravity! This can be done in two ways:

By using the slope of the surface.
Due to the use of channels with an inner surface with a slope (this function is provided in concrete channels of some manufacturers: Standartpark, Hauraton, ACO), as well as due to a stepped slope organized using channels of different heights.

It is most advisable to combine the arrangement of an underground drainage system with foundation work - it will not cost much. If, during the operation of the house, it turns out that the level of groundwater is very high, and the drainage of water from the house is not organized, this will cost you a pretty penny.

Underground drainage Is a system of drainage pipes (drains, i.e. pipes with holes, covered with rubble and wrapped in geotextiles) and drainage wells. Geotextile protects drains from siltation.

Drainage wells are designed for Maintenance drainage system, for example, cleaning with a jet of water. Drainage well is provided at every second bend of the pipe, so that through it it is possible to service both the inlet and outlet sections of the pipes.

Wells collected from concrete rings with a diameter of 400 mm and 700 mm. V recent times more and more ready-made plastic wells with a diameter of 315 mm are used.

Collected drain pipes water enters a collector well (water collected by a surface drainage system can also be brought here), equipped with check valve which prevents water from the well from getting back into the drainage system. From a common well, water is taken out (for example, pumped out) into a communal storm sewer, an open drain, or it is absorbed into the soil through a specially dumped layer of rubble (drainage field).

Well, in general, it's enough for the first time (especially if you don't have a special education). Conclusion: Arrangement of surface, and, if necessary, deep drainage is a feasible task, but ... if in doubt, entrust it to professionals. If you are going to secure basements, foundations, etc., and are faced with water management (groundwater), then due to the complexity and complexity of the task, I advise you to choose one contractor who will be responsible for the development and installation of the entire system as a whole. This is important because individual works, performed by different contractors, as a rule, do not solve the problem as a whole, and the contractor always has the opportunity to declare: “It's not me!”. Try to negotiate a warranty for your drainage systems for at least a year. Only a full season will prove their viability!

Since you are paying money, do not entrust such a difficult task, for example, to the tilers who pave the paths for you! They can be performers - but they must be led by a professional.

Vladimir Polevoy.

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High-quality drainage (drainage) of rain and groundwater from the house is a prerequisite for the long and reliable operation of sidewalks and areas that are covered with any kind of paving slabs.

From the article you will learn why water drainage is so important, what happens when water is not completely removed, and what schemes are used for this.

To understand why water drainage is so important, you need to know how paving paving works with any kind of tile. Before laying the underlying layers, part of the soil is removed and the surface of the ditch is compacted.

In most regions of Russia, clay and sandy soils with a depth of tens of meters prevail, the upper (soft) layer of which consists of a mixture of clay, sand and humus. In mountainous regions (foothills of the Urals, North Caucasus and others) often the depth of soft soil does not exceed 30 centimeters, after which rocky soil (stone, rock) begins. The blind area laid in these places is less sensitive to water.

When water penetrates through the underlying layers and reaches the ground, the clay and black soil soften. If the amount of water is large and enough time, the clay turns into liquid mud, into which the paving base falls. As a result, in a separate area, first a layer of crushed stone sags, then a layer of sand and, finally, paving slabs or paving stones.

In Russia, washed sand and crushed stone are rarely used for the construction of the base (underlying layers). Especially if they are not doing it for themselves.

If you hired a brigade of shabashniks, at the same time entrusted them with the purchase of everything you need and want to save money, with a probability of 95 percent they will save on the quality of materials. For the bedding, such workers use material that is not only not washed, but not even cleaned with a screen.

When water passes through unwashed and uncleaned sand and crushed stone, it washes away small particles. As a result, voids are formed, which sag over time. This is especially pronounced when the soil heaves (freezing of the water with which it is filled, as a result of which the soil level rises).

Poor water drainage from the plots leads to the destruction of the paving elements. Water that has penetrated (absorbed) into the tile freezes at temperatures below zero degrees, expands and destroys its structure.

It is cheaper to build a normal drainage of storm and melt water once than to spend every 3-5 years overhaul blind areas.

Drainage schemes for groundwater and melt water

For drainage of water, the following schemes are used:

surface with the help of sidewalk gutters;
superficial with the help of gutters;
underground with connection to the city storm sewer;
underground with connection to a septic tank or water purification devices and subsequent discharge into a reservoir.

The scheme of water drainage using sidewalk gutters is described in the article Drainage elements.

A surface drainage scheme using gutters is used if the relief and structure of the area allows. A slope of at least 1 cm per 1 meter is required, the ability to dump water into a river or lake, the ability to dig ditches or raise the road (sidewalk) and the opposite wall of the ditch.

The base is prepared in such a way that the slope of the paved area towards the ditch is at least 1 cm by 10 meters. The curb is installed at the level of the paving elements, not allowing it to be exceeded even by one millimeter. This arrangement is rarely used for paved areas because it is necessary to reinforce the near side of the ditch with concrete, asphalt or other materials to protect the foundation.

The general structure of underground drainage schemes is the same. Water drainage is carried out through a closed concrete (socket pipes or trays with a lid) or plastic (PVC or polyethylene) pipe. The central pipe (collector) is laid either 0.1-0.5 meters deeper than the lower underlying layer, or laterally at a depth of 0.3-0.7 meters below the surface.

The location of the collector on the side is preferable, because in the event of a serious blockage, it is necessary to excavate the pipe, remove the blockage (often with the destruction of the pipe section and subsequent replacement) and backfill with soil. Therefore, the use of concrete trays and covers for drainage of rainwater avoids the destruction of pipes. It is enough to remove the cover, clear the blockage, put the cover back in place, cover with soil and restore the coating.

To decide which of the underground drainage schemes is preferable, contact the architecture department, finding out at the same time where the nearest storm sewer passes and who owns it. After that, contact the owner to find out the terms of connection.

In the city / village administration, consult about the possibility of dumping storm and melt water "on the relief", that is, into "natural ditches" - ravines, hollows and depressions that lead to a reservoir or river.

Most likely, you will be assigned several expensive examinations and will be obliged to purchase treatment facilities. Although there are cases when it was possible to save money on examinations and without any bribes, it depends on the environmentalist who makes the decision.

Organized discharge of storm and melt water without obtaining a permit is illegal. If you are caught doing this, you will be forced to pay a large fine and forced to dismantle the entire rainwater drainage system. Or they will be obliged to obtain permission from maximum number examinations, installation treatment facilities from "their" companies and at the maximum price.

Why it is impossible to dispose of water into the household sewer or septic tank

Household (fecal sewage) is designed for a small amount of domestic wastewater, therefore the diameter of the pipes is smaller than for storm sewers. The amount of water during a downpour or melting snow is tens and hundreds of times higher throughput sewer or septic tank. As a result, their contents are washed out to the surface.

There is a large amount of sand, small and bulky debris in storm and melt waters, therefore, the supply of such water will lead to the formation of blockages in the collector. Under Russian law, the discharge of storm water and waste water into the domestic sewer is illegal and punishable by a large fine.

How to organize a drain in the yard with your own hands

If you have tiled your yard, use the old drainage system. If water was running down through holes in the fence foundation and out through the gutter, create a foundation for the blind area so that the slope is in a straight line from the fence foundation to the house, as well as towards the gutter. The slope is 1-1.5 cm by 10 meters.

Mark the line perpendicular to the foundation of the fence. If the diameter of the hole in the fence foundation is less than 20 cm, drill or punch several additional holes 6-15 cm in diameter.

If a storm sewer was connected to the yard, then no additional approvals are needed. But just in case, consult the city / rural department of architecture or the water utility. Perhaps they will request a project for the reconstruction of a storm sewer in your yard. But in 9 out of 10 cases, no additional approvals are needed.

If you have not had any storm water drainage, visit your neighbors, see how they have done. If most of your neighbors discharge storm water into a gutter, feel free to dump water into it using the technology described above. If neighbors are connected to a storm sewer collector, contact the owner of the sewer for connection to it.

Correctly organized drainage of storm and melt water affects the strength and reliability of the blind area much more than the strength and quality of the tile. From the article, you learned about the schemes used to drain these waters, in which cases permits and approvals are necessary, and when you can do without them.

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Drainage on summer cottage... The easiest way to improve the water balance of the soil should be mandatory, because the moisture ratio in different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

Uncomplicated water drainage system from the building

Drainage of the soil can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are distinguished by their simplicity in the device, but they do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create channels closed type that do not violate the attractiveness of the landscape.

Surface lines

Although the systems surface collection are relatively simple, they allow you to effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed into a central gutter or drain well. Among the advantages are:

high speed of construction;
small costs;
sufficient level of efficiency;
ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If it comes on how to make drainage on the site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with a system of open channels.

Closed drainage systems

Deep line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater drainage in the immediate vicinity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes that plunge into the ground for a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

point (water collection takes place in one place);
linear (moisture collection is provided throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within the framework of one site, the presented views can be combined. For example, point collection can be used for the drainage system of a house, and linear collection for groundwater.

Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to device for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on the site, it is necessary to select its type, based on the operational characteristics. It is worth considering the most optimal options for the device of water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

An example of drainage of a site with a high water table

With a close occurrence of groundwater the best option can be deep system linear type. It will drain moisture from the entire site into a sinkhole, ravine or ditch located at a level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in the geotextile filter as the main elements.

One of the most simple ways drainage at a summer cottage with groundwater located close to the surface is reduced to the following scheme:

A trench is pulled out to the distance of freezing of the soil. Its slope should be 2 cm by running meter towards the collection point. For leveling, a layer of sand is poured.
Geotextile is spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the pit walls by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again covered with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile roll up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is covered with soil.

For your information! Knowing how to properly drain around the site and on its territory with a close occurrence of groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with an excess of moisture.

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Do-it-yourself open drainage device in an area with clay soil

For land plots with clay soil a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go to specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

Ditches with a depth of at least 50 cm are dug in places where water accumulates. Their width should increase as they approach the place of reception. The widest is necessary to make a trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate drainage and to protect the edges from collapse, the sidewalls are cut at a 30 degree angle.

Because open view trenches spoils appearance site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves the aesthetic properties, but also strengthens lateral surfaces open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Stones of different sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should fit on the bottom, and the medium and small ones - on top. If you have good financial capabilities, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable look.

If with in cash tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. You need to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bundles and laid on special supports installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the small ones at the edges.

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Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services by device drainage systems, however, they are not so cheap. In the course of the work, a double-walled pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The main stages of the device of a high-quality system