Split system for self-installation. Air conditioner installation tutorial

When choosing a place to install an air conditioner, the first thing to consider is that the coolest air will be at a distance of 2-3 meters from the device. Place it in such a way that this area does not include a bed, sofa or other place for sleeping or long rest. In addition, when choosing where to install the air conditioner, it is worth choosing a place that is remote from everyone. heating appliances. Anything that gives off heat or steam bad neighbor for the air conditioner, unless of course you want to arrange indoor tornadoes 🙂 . It is also undesirable for pieces of furniture to stand in the way of the air flow, otherwise the operation of the device will not be effective enough.

When choosing how to properly install an air conditioner in a room, the location of the windows is also taken into account. If you have a sunny side, then the flow of cooled air should go perpendicular to the influx of heat from the windows, in which case the temperature will be distributed most evenly. It is also not recommended to place the split system opposite the door to the room so that the cooled air does not go to other rooms.

When installing the air conditioner under the ceiling, you must also take into account the necessary indentation - at least 15 cm from the ceiling, in order to provide space for air movement. Since most split systems do not provide air flow from the street, but only cool the existing one, for a healthy microclimate, it is better to put the air conditioner in the same room as it will supply Fresh air and the air conditioner to cool it to the desired temperature.

If you decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom, then best solution will place it above the bed - in this case, the zone of greatest cold will be abroad bed, and the air during sleep will be a pleasant temperature.

If we talk about how to properly install the air conditioner in the kitchen, then, in addition to moving away from heat sources, which include the stove, you need to take into account the fact that if the air flow enters other rooms, then the smells from the kitchen will go throughout the apartment . If you have gas stove, then it is also not worth placing the air conditioner opposite it, since the air from it will blow out the flame. In the kitchen, there is often not enough space to install a split system in accordance with all the rules, in which case you can choose a corner or compact installation, now such options are also available on the market.

Unlike mobile air coolers, which consist of a single unit, household split systems require additional financial costs for installation. It is quite possible to reduce costs: study detailed guide how to install a new air conditioner in the apartment and do the installation yourself.

Preparatory stage

Split systems are most often used for air conditioning of private houses and apartments, as they are reliable, convenient and compact. The climate control system consists of two blocks - internal and external, interconnected by two freon tubes, electric cable and drainage line.

Warning. When buying a new air conditioner, consider important nuance: all freon is pumped into the outdoor module, and the indoor one is empty. Do not open the valves on the side of the machine until the piping is connected.

Installation of "splits" is much harder to install floor and window air conditioners. Here, 2 separate blocks must be correctly placed outside and inside the room, lay and hermetically connect the lines. The issue of connecting to the mains is solved more simply - a line is laid to the installed indoor module, protected by a circuit breaker.

What you need to do before proceeding with self-assembly:

Buy additional materials.
Prepare special tools and fixtures.
Determine the location of both units and the route for laying highways with freon.

The location of the split system blocks is subject to certain rules. The chilled air flow from the indoor unit must not blow directly on people, but maximum distance from the outdoor unit - exceed 5 m. Most often, the unit is placed on the side partition next to the window and outer wall. Technological indents from walls and ceilings are indicated in the diagram.

Now a few tips on where to install outdoor unit:

Note. Inverter-type air conditioners are quieter than conventional ones, but the fan noise is still audible at night.

List of tools and materials

The following installation materials are not included in the delivery of the split system, they will need to be purchased independently:

metal bracket for suspension of the outdoor module (you can weld it yourself from steel equal-shelf angles 35 x 3 mm);
four-core copper cable type VVG with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm², depending on the power of the cooler;
tubes of freon pipelines copper with a diameter of 6.35 mm and 9.52 mm of the required length;
rubber heat-insulating sleeve of the K-Flex type along the length of the line;
corrugated drainage pipe (metal-plastic Ø16 mm is also suitable);
winding tape PVA or PVC;
polyurethane foam - 1 bottle.

Note. Depending on the conditions for laying interconnecting lines, you may need a plastic cable channel or a dry mortar for closing the furrow.

Apart from home set locksmith tools, air conditioning installation requires the use of special devices and equipment:

perforator with a long drill or crown drill for concrete;
vacuum pump;
manifold with pressure gauges and hoses;
manual flare tool copper pipes and scissors that do not form metal chips.

Often on the Internet there are instructions on how to install and run a split system without a vacuum pump, where the air from the pipelines and the evaporative heat exchanger is pushed out by freon pressure. We categorically advise against following such recommendations and strictly observing the technology of evacuating the system before filling. Otherwise, the compressor may fail much earlier than the due date.

Advice. There is a way to save money on buying or renting a rolling tool and speed up the assembly of freon lines. Ready-made installation kits are available for sale, including factory flared tubes, insulation and a cable with a drain hose. The price depends on the length of the bundle (3, 5 or 7 m).

Air conditioner installation instructions

It is assumed that you have already purchased a split system of the required cooling capacity, you know exactly the dimensions of the devices and have allocated places for them. Installation work produced in several stages:

Marking the route for laying inter-unit communications, supplying electricity and sawing a furrow in the wall (if necessary).
Fastening indoor unit, laying highways through the wall and connection.
Installation of an external module, connection of communications.
Refrigerant charge and start up.

Depending on the conditions of the work, the main bundle is laid in two ways: openly in a PVC cable duct or hidden inside the wall. Use the first option in a residential apartment, the second - in the process of repairing the premises.

Reference. Ninety percent of manufacturers of split systems provide for the output of communications from the left end of the indoor unit. When hanging to the left of the window and hidden laying of pipelines, the groove in the wall will have to be cut out with a turn, as shown in the photo.

The first stage of work is carried out as follows:

How to make the furrows yourself and prepare for the installation of the air conditioner, will tell experienced master in your video:

Indoor unit installation

Before starting work, take the device out of the box and read the attached technical documentation, where the manufacturer makes his own requirements for the installation of the product and provides a diagram. Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner according to the step-by-step instructions:

Advice. In order not to peel off the winding tape of the bundle, it is better to insert a plastic sleeve into the technological hole. Alternatively, make it from a plastic bottle.

After hanging the indoor unit, straighten the wiring harness and lay it inside the furrows. At open method gaskets, immediately install the cable - channel and hide the pipelines there. How to accurately connect the highways, see the video:

Outdoor module installation

Mounting the unit on the balcony will not cause any particular difficulties. When installing under a window, secure yourself with insurance and have an assistant support you while screwing the bracket and outdoor unit. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

Advice. In order not to get out of the window to the waist, tightening the nuts under the bracket, buy special plastic retainers or make them on your own. The bolt is inserted into the corner, a lock in the form of a washer is put on the thread and prevents it from falling out. At the end of the module fastening nuts are screwed with a long socket wrench as it is done in the video.

Startup instructions

At this stage, it is important to remove freon circuit air and water vapor by vacuum. Then the lines are filled with refrigerant pumped into the outdoor unit at the factory. To refuel a new air conditioner, the following technology is used:

After successfully filling the lines and the indoor module, turn on the split system for cooling, then test it for different modes work. Make sure that the condensate flows from the drain and not along the wall under the indoor unit. Do not forget to close the ends of the service ports with standard plugs and put the cover on.

Conclusion

The success of the event depends heavily on the quality of the installation work. If you are careless when installing the air conditioner, best case you will lose freon, and with it the money saved on calling the masters will fly into the atmosphere. In the worst case, the compressor will “grab” steam or dirt that has entered the pipeline, and will fail in just a year. So take your time and pay close attention to all connections.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

More and more people in Lately think about the purchase and installation of devices for controlling the microclimate in the home. In urban areas, especially if the apartment is entirely on the sunny side, air conditioning is the only option to create comfort during the hot summer months. The great cost of this useful device makes you want to save money by installing a split system with your own hands. Is this procedure as complicated as air conditioning installation companies assure? And how to install the air conditioner yourself according to all the rules to ensure its uninterrupted operation for the longest possible time?

Types of air conditioners

For creating comfortable conditions The following types of air conditioners are used in apartments:

Monoblock systems

All blocks of the conditioner are located in one case. This reduces the cost of the device, but also leads to certain inconveniences: the bulkiness of the system and the rather high noise from the compressor, not even at full power. They, in turn, are divided into two types:

Window air conditioners. Pioneers among apartment systems. The main disadvantage: the device block occupies a significant part of the window opening. This prevents sunlight from entering the room, and it is extremely difficult to harmoniously fit its interior. Therefore, air conditioners of this type are becoming rarer.
. Much more attractive in design than windowed ones. In addition to the tempting possibility of movement, they have one more undeniable dignity: The unit requires virtually no installation. It is enough just to equip with your own hands the hood from the room to the outside, to which the system is connected. But the cost of such air conditioners is quite high.

Two-block systems

In devices of this type, the refrigerant circulates between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner. The main advantage of such systems is noiselessness. The main "troublemaker" - the compressor, is located behind the wall. The indoor units have different design and can be placed in the most convenient location. They are divided into 3 varieties:

Wall split systems. The most affordable and common at present, have a power of 2 to 7 kW. They are perfect for maintaining the desired microclimate: in summer they create coolness, but it is also possible to operate the air conditioner for heating in winter. It is for such systems that the most relevant question is: how to install an air conditioner without resorting to the help of professionals?
Channel conditioners. They are installed under the false ceiling structure and have a high power - 12–25 kW. This is enough for a fairly spacious apartment. Complicating the task is the need to correctly calculate the air exchange in the room. When installing thermostats and special electric valves, you can set your own temperature for each room in the apartment. Naturally, this complicates the installation of system blocks and significantly increases its cost.
Cassette air conditioners. The main system is also hidden false ceiling. Cassette split systems are made so as not to stand out. As a rule, the dimensions of the grille of the cassette air conditioner coincide with the dimensions ceiling tiles: 600 by 600 mm, and with more power - 600 by 1200 mm. The dimensions of the indoor unit allow you to easily place it and all the necessary communications inside a standard metal profile grate used in the installation of suspended structures.

Preparing to install an air conditioner with your own hands: choosing a place

Since wall-mounted split systems are the most popular, we will describe how to install an air conditioner with our own hands in relation to them.

Selecting the location of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in apartment building can cause some problems:

The outdoor unit of the system cools the refrigerant, so it should be located so that, if possible, heat from the sun's rays is avoided. The north or east side of the house or balcony is well suited.
The massive outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be placed so as not to disturb the neighbors.
It is unacceptable that condensate from drainage pipe running down the wall of the house. It must be taken out as far as possible.
Like any device, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner needs periodic maintenance. Therefore, it must be located so that it can be approached without special efforts and risk.

When choosing a place for the internal part of the system, there are also a number of conditions:

It can not be placed near the elements of the heating system.
It is unacceptable that the inside of the split system is closed by curtains or other objects that prevent the free movement of air.
The A/C unit processor may be damaged if placed in an area of intense electrical noise generated by household appliances. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in the kitchen.

Tools

Selection necessary tool it won't be easy either. For work you will need:

Pumps: vacuum and bicycle.
Pipe flaring kit. Better with a pipe cutter. Copper tubes cannot be cut with another tool - sawdust will surely get inside them, which will disable the vacuum pump.
Reamer for finishing expanded pipes.
Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the air conditioning system.
Indicator screwdriver and mounting tester electrical wiring blocks.
Perforator.
Bay of copper pipe.

It is better to take a whole bay of tubes, with the ends rolled at the factory. You can never guess with what tool the tube was cut if you buy only a part of the coil. Copper pipes should not have dents, cracks or other defects.

Installation of the external unit of the air conditioner

It should immediately be noted that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be located below the indoor one.

After marking the mounting points of the brackets, a hole is drilled for communications. Of course, in this case, it is necessary to avoid getting the drill into other communications or fittings, so the place for the hole must be chosen carefully. V brick wall it is better to lay it along the seam of the masonry. If concrete slab has frequent fittings, then the only way out is to drill a separate small hole for each wire or tube of the system.
Brackets are attached to the wall with anchor bolts. You can fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly on the balcony by slightly changing the mounting scheme. But in any case, it is important to maintain the level: at the slightest distortion of the system, there will be problems with the condensate drain.
The most difficult stage of the operation is the direct installation of the external unit with your own hands. It weighs at least 60 kg, which is why this work must be done by at least two people. It may be necessary to use the help of industrial climbers or special equipment to securely fix the air conditioner to the brackets.

For normal operation system, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the air conditioner case and the wall.

Installation of the indoor unit and necessary communications

Work progress:

The indoor unit is attached by hand to the mounting plate using a latch system. The plate is securely attached to the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling and at least 5 cm from the corner of the room. Having lifted the inner part together, it is fixed with latches.
The copper pipes of the air conditioner for the refrigerant supply are cut off with a margin of a meter for the intended bends. The minimum length of these communications is at least 1.5 meters. Carefully bending them, put on the nuts and flare the ends. The nuts are tightened tightly on the fittings, but without much effort.
The drain tube is attached to the block with a threaded flange or with a piece of heat-shrinkable hose.
The power supply of the air conditioner must be done through the machine. For a split system, its own wiring is laid with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A yellow wire with a green stripe is usually zero. This is where an indicator and a tester come in handy.
Both parts of the air conditioner are connected stranded wires according to the instructions in the diagram. At the slightest doubt, it is better to consult a specialist, repairing the system in case of incorrect connection will cost more.

Leak test and system filling

It is performed in the following sequence:

A bicycle pump is attached to the nipple, and all joints and tubes are covered with soapy water. If bubbles appear during the air supply, then tighten the nuts on the fittings.
After checking the tightness, air is pumped out of the air conditioner. A vacuum pump is attached to the nipple and runs for at least an hour. This is necessary to completely remove moisture from the system.
By attaching a freon cylinder to the unit using an adapter with a pressure gauge, the system is filled until the pressure specified in the instructions is reached. Then turn on the power supply through the machine.

If the air conditioner independently switched to the system test mode, then everything worked out. If not, then starting from the remote might help. Otherwise, you will have to call the wizard.

With a positive result, it remains only to insulate the wiring harness between the blocks with foil and waterproof electrical tape, after which the hole in the wall is blown with foam. Everything, you can enjoy the operation of the air conditioner.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

The microclimate in the house is not only convenient, but also good for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But installing a split system with your own hands is of interest to many - it is cheaper to do the installation yourself than to invite masters, although this is not always correct. First of all, experts will do the installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.

What is a split system

Split system before installation

To begin with, let's define what a split system is, so as not to get confused in the definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from conventional air conditioner, and it is right. There are several types of SLE:

On the wall 1.5-9.0 kW.
On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
On the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.

How it works

The SCR consists of two parts - a compressor, which is usually placed on the street under a window, and an indoor unit that supplies cold air to the room. The compressor contains freon, which cools this air - this air comes from the street ( supply system). In addition to cooling, there is a solenoid in the indoor unit, which can also blow hot air.

outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets

The outdoor unit is located on open space- facade of the house outdoor balcony, roof. In office buildings, the outdoor unit can be mounted on flight of stairs, in the lobby or in the hallway. These two units are interconnected by a freon pipe, as well as a condensate drain pipe. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a capacitor motor. The four-way valve is connected from the indoor unit through power cable coming from the block in the apartment. There is also a compressor on the outdoor unit, which removes the noise in the room. The indoor unit is slightly noisy - it is 24-25 dB and this bothers some people.

Block in the apartment

Block in the apartment, fixed to the wall

The indoor unit can be located in any part of the room - ceiling, walls, floor (depending on the type of ACS). The system is controlled remotely (remote control) is required. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter to clean the air from smoke and / or dust. Heating and cooling of the room varies from 10 to 30⁰C. The remote control display has information on which you can adjust the system in the desired mode - this is air temperature, three degrees of discharge force and turbo mode. For domestic use apply wall options, and floor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, in public places.

The electronics of this unit controls all parameters:

Allows you to control using the remote control, fixes the desired temperature and air flow.
Records the temperature of the air that enters the evaporator and measures the temperature of the air in the room.
When the set temperature in the room is reached, the compressor turns off, and turns on when the maximum allowable conditions change by 3-5⁰C.
The temperature is maintained by adjusting the rotation of the fan in the indoor unit, as well as the rotation of the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, a large amount of condensate will form in those nodes that are not designed for this. This may cause water to leak through the indoor unit into the room.
The remote control provides tongue control (blinds), which gives direction to the air flow.
Prevents premature start.
Controls the temperature of the block outside.
Follows a timer that can be set to a specific time.

Space heating

Modern air conditioners can heat the air that enters the room. This happens when the four-way valve is switched, which changes the direction of the air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from the inside. During the heating function on the outdoor unit, it is formed, which must be discharged. You should not heat the SLE house at a negative temperature outside - this can lead to freezing and defrosting, which is tantamount to a breakdown. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰С.

Cooling in the cold season

SLE has a winter kit that allows you to air-condition indoors closed type, where there is intense heat generation - server rooms, workshops and the like. During cold air blowing, the outdoor unit heats up, so it cannot freeze. This kit includes a fan control controller - it turns it on in condenser mode during heating, and also heats the condensate drain pipe.

High temperatures

For R10A freon, there is a critical heat point - this is 72⁰C, therefore, the maximum outdoor temperature should be no more than 45-50⁰C. For R22 freon, the maximum block temperature is 96⁰C, therefore, allowable temperature environment 65-70⁰C - this allows you to install such units in hot shops, attics and garages. Such high temperatures can be in metal attics, in MAAFs and other metal premises.

When the temperature outside is very high, the unit works with pressure drops and more freon is required. This factor makes the compressor work more intensively and pump maximum amount freon, which leads to its shutdown by electronics. Conventional SCRs are designed for temperatures no higher than 40⁰C. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, then it is recommended to install a visor on top when installing split systems with your own hands, which will protect the unit from the sun.

For non-standard operating modes, reduce throughput capillary channel, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and outlet with a smaller amount of pumped freon. Since there is less gas in the system, it is not liquid that passes through the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. Under normal temperature conditions, such drops are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.

Multi systems

Multi split system

If the ACS is equipped with several units, then it will already be a multi system - it means one unit outdoors and several units in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation, the outdoor unit can be combined with several different systems, on the floor, not on the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such units are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control the desired modes and compressors with fans.

Such systems come with one or more compressors. In the case of a single compressor, the SCR indoor unit transmits information to the outdoor part of the unit, which determines the operation mode of the compressor. Systems with several compressors usually have two or three units. In such a situation, a separate compressor, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube are installed on each unit. The compressor of the outdoor unit detects the signals of all indoor units and sets the operation of the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and non-inverter.

Air conditioner care

Due to condensate, both the indoor and outdoor units become clogged within two to three years, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done with hot steam, and outside they are washed with water. Thus, fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can drop by half, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates on the outdoor unit due to cars and trees. The filters on top are of little help and serve more for advertising than cleaning.

air conditioner requirements

Video: Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system is, in fact, not difficult and you can watch the process on the video, but several factors should be taken into account:

In no case should the air conditioner be located near heating devices, for example, above a radiator - this greatly increases the consumption of electricity, which you have to pay for.
There should be no debris in the system, as it can damage the vacuum pump.
Boiling freon can evaporate even through a micro-slit, therefore, during installation, the unit should be checked for tightness.
The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit. Otherwise, it is fraught with an overexpenditure of electricity and a thermosyphon effect.
Heating the outer part of the SCR also causes an extra waste of electricity.
The drainage tube can only go down, without loops bent up. Such bends serve as a collection of debris and fungal mold.
Do-it-yourself installation of split systems without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive freon, which will cause air overheating and oil deterioration, which will damage the compressor. Too expensive - it is often easier to buy a new one.

air split

There are two separate blocks: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor-condensing (outside). Although modern units work not only to cool the air, but also to heat it, it turns out that freon condenses in the inside of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outside, which is why they are called so - internal and external.

Toolbox

Installation of the air conditioner is best done during repair work in the House

It is most convenient to carry out installation work during repairs in the apartment, since you have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit, you will need tools such as:

with standard set of drills and hole cutter ø 50 mm. With this cutter, you will have to drill the main (bearing) wall for the output of tubes.
Magnet for detecting the presence of reinforcement. And in concrete walls she is a must.
Bulgarian, but a pipe cutter is better for cutting pipes - be sure to blow the pipe after that so that there is no copper chips left.
To expand the pipes, you will need a scraper, since tightness cannot be achieved with improvised means. In addition, it is impossible to clean the ends with a file or needle file so that sawdust does not get into the middle.
Bicycle or car pump for tightness control.
Vacuum pump - needed for evacuation before refueling the unit.
Ammeter-voltmeter (possibly a phase indicator) for connection to a network of ≈220 V.
Manometer for checking pressure.

Installation work

Bracket outdoors fastened with anchor dowels

The most difficult thing is to fix the brackets on the wall with outer side at home - this is usually done below the window so that there is access to outdoor unit. It should be fastened with anchor plastic dowels ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal mollies, but there is an umbrella-type dowel and it will not hold in a solid wall. Such an installation can be done from a telescopic tower, but it will be expensive, so it's easier to bend over the window and drill holes, but first you need to make marks with a pencil. To prevent the hole from going astray, first drill with a thin drill ø 5-6 mm, and then take ø 14-16 mm

The outdoor block must be below the indoor

As a rule, it is not recommended to install the outdoor unit yourself without proper experience - it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life.

But if you have construction experience in high-altitude work, then you can mount it. You can, of course, install it on a balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the unit is in indoors then it will overheat. The most important thing is to fasten the brackets well, but if you are afraid of heights, then it’s better not to take on such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience working at heights, so it’s better to pay, but not risk it.

But first you need to determine the place where the indoor unit will be located, in order to then install the outdoor unit relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you do not have to add copper pipes - they are expensive. Then you make a hole in the wall with a cutter, but if the walls are concrete, then it is best to punch the hole with a chisel so as not to break the crown on the wire.

Installation mounting plate for indoor unit

The mounting plate for fixing the air conditioner should be inserted strictly according to the level and fixed with plastic dowels. Here, anchors are no longer needed - you can get by with dowels ø 6 mm and self-tapping screws 90 mm long. I was not mistaken - it is 6 mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw does not tear out of the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws into one dowel - this is much stronger. Of course, it will be difficult to tighten two screws with a screwdriver, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.

Assembly of pipelines

The tubes are cut with a meter excess so that there are reserves for bends. The tube must be bent very carefully so that it does not crack anywhere. Although wrinkles should also not be allowed - such a deformation will impede the flow of refrigerant, and this in turn will cause an overrun of electricity. The most best thermal insulation, this is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last a very long time, but foam rubber will not last even one season. Flanges are put on the ends and only after that do the flaring. The threads on the flanges must be turned towards the end of the tube in order to screw them to the fittings. New air conditioners have fittings different diameter, so it will be impossible to mix up the ends. But there are assembly instructions in the passport, so you can constantly peep.

For drainage, it is best to use metal-plastic ø 16 mm, since corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes. If a thread is not provided for drainage, then it can be connected with heat shrink by heating it with a soldering iron or over an open fire - with matches or a lighter.

In order to connect the indoor and outdoor units, a multi-core cable with a core cross section of not 1.5 mm is used - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not match, and then you have to understand according to the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also packed in a pipe made of foamed polyurethane, and then all communications can be wrapped with tape. This pipe is pushed into a 50 mm hole, which is pre-made in the wall.

To check the sealing, use distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution laundry soap(it can be grated). To continue, remove the nipple from the outlet and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, then tighten the nut slightly. After completion, the soap is wiped with a wet cloth or sponge. The nipple is put in place and vacuum pump pump out air to remove dust and moisture. This must be done for a long time of 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped with freon from a cylinder through a pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.

Video: Installation work on installing a split system

Now it remains only to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the indoor unit. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since the guarantees will no longer be valid. When starting the test, the shutters should open and cold air should come out. Blinds are adjusted to the desired position from the remote control.

Conclusion

If something does not work out with the installation of a split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, then you will have to call the master or hire a telescopic tower. But this applies to multi-storey buildings - on the first floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not arise.

Any air conditioner consists of two parts with different functions: refrigeration circuit, which performs the function of air cooling and the electrical part that controls the devices and elements of the circuit.

This article will review circuit diagram air conditioner, options for connecting it to the power supply and how to properly connect the air conditioner to the mains.

What is the electrical circuit of a split system

An air conditioner wiring diagram is a document that shows the location of electronic components, their connection, as well as information for engineers. service centers. Everyone who is involved is more interested in the electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner, which includes the location of the main devices of the evaporator and condenser unit, terminals for connecting the units to each other and connecting the power supply.

The main elements here are:

Compressor, with CSR outputs. The arrow shows the protection installed on the compressor winding
Compressorcapacitor - a capacitor, with two leads connected to the windings of the compressor unit. The third terminal of the capacitor is connected to its starting winding.
In addition, the diagram shows a fan motor and a capacitor through which two motor windings are connected.
The diagram shows an electromagnet that controls the operation of a four-way valve.

Terminal designations in the terminal block:

1(N) is zero.

3 - Power supply to the fan motor when it is running at low speeds.

4 - Power supply to the fan motor when it is running at high speeds.

Separate terminal - ground.
Main modules and blocks:

Power filter through which voltage is supplied to the control board.
Control board is a control unit to which all device modules are connected.
The compressor power relay is connected to CN 12.
A drain pump is connected to CN6.
The CN 5 terminal block is responsible for controlling the split system fan.
To the terminals of CN 10, a stepper motor for controlling the louvre is connected.
The CN 7 terminals are responsible for connecting the heat exchanger temperature sensor.
A room temperature sensor is connected to terminals 1 and 2 of the CN15 terminal block.
A water level sensor in the sump is connected to terminals 1 and 3 of the CN15 terminal block.
Terminal block CN 13 of the control unit is responsible for connecting the display unit of the device.

Terminal block (marked on the board as Terminal) for connecting the evaporator and condenser units with a cable. Terminals L and N - power supply of the air conditioner from the electric line. gears. You should know what exists with connecting the air conditioner to the mains through an external unit.

With this connection, you must follow the instructions. If climatic equipment with a power of up to 4.5 kW is connected, then a four-core copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 should be used. With a separate power branch, a 20 A automatic machine must be installed on the shield.

Connecting an air conditioner

After they must be interconnected by a four-wire copper cable with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe core of at least 2.5 mm 2. Connection instructions are circuit diagram, which has been discussed in detail above. The connecting cable can be laid together with the freon line, or maybe in a separate plastic box.

When laying in one strobe together with copper pipes, use a corrugated plastic tube to insulate the cable.

After interblock electrical connection connect the indoor unit to the power supply. The scheme for connecting the air conditioner to the mains involves receiving power both from the nearest outlet and from a separate line.

An ideal option for connecting a sufficiently powerful climate equipment is a separate power line. This option will not load the already existing lines of the apartment electrical system and will allow you to supply power directly to the indoor unit of the split system. The laying of the power cable from the shield to the indoor unit can be done along a grooved groove in the wall material or in a special plastic box.

The shield from which a separate power line will be drawn must be grounded. Connecting the power cable to the terminal block of the shield should be carried out only through the machine, the power of which should be calculated according to the formula: the power of the device divided by the voltage. 30% of the margin should be added to the resulting value.

It should be understood that the power cable for climate control equipment can be connected to the outlet only if:

The air conditioner has little power.
The intra-house electrical network is laid with a copper cable with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2.
There are no energy-intensive consumers on the same branch with air conditioning.
Supposed to be temporary.
This branch power supply is equipped with an automatic device with an RCD of at least 20 A.

Options for connecting an air conditioner to an existing power line

This issue could not be considered, due to the presence of sockets in the room. But, some owners of low-power climate equipment are unhappy with the stretching wire from the outlet to the consumer, often through the entire wall.

If the outlet is far enough from the air conditioner, then there is an option to connect the air conditioner to the mains through a switch. We warn you right away: this option is only suitable for low-power climate control equipment, and here's why: the terminals of a conventional switch may simply not withstand the current passing through them. As a result, heating, sparking, failure of the switch (at best) or fire.

Better off operating outlet make a groove in the wall and lay the power cable through it in the corrugated pipe to the split system unit, and then mount a special socket into the wall with decorative overlay. The socket must withstand a certain current: if the power is 1 kW, then the socket must withstand 9-10 A; from 1 to 3 kW - 16-18 A; from 3 to 4.6 kW - 20 A; from 4.6 to 5.5 - at least 25 A. Right choice best left to a qualified electrician.

If you decide to connect the air conditioner with your own hands, then do it in compliance with all safety regulations, and in order to be completely sure that the connection process went correctly and safely for the climate equipment and the inhabitants of the home, it is best to seek help from professionals.