Partial or complete dismantling of the air conditioner is carried out for various reasons - repairs in an apartment, moving, installation in another room, and so on. The standard approach is to call the employees of a specialized company for the correct removal of the split system by paying for this service. A more economical option is to dismantle the air conditioner with your own hands, having figured out the intricacies of the procedure. This is not to say that it is simple, but with the right approach, it is quite realizable.

About the methods and difficulties of dismantling with your own hands

As a rule, the owners of private houses and apartments install 2 types of air conditioners - monoblock (mobile) and split systems. There are no special problems with the first ones, since in such models all the main elements are enclosed in a single housing, and to move the unit, it is enough to simply disconnect the air duct.

In addition to monoblocks and "splits", there are other types of climate control units - cassette, channel and column. But usually such equipment is installed in offices, shopping centers and other large premises, in private homes it is rarely used.

The split system consists of two sections, located inside and outside the dwelling. They are interconnected by two lines, through which refrigerant, freon, circulates in various states of aggregation. Through a copper tube of small diameter, it flows in the form of a liquid from the outer block to the inner one. The gaseous refrigerant flows in the opposite direction along the large pipe diameter. Hence, a number of difficulties arise that await an ignorant user when trying to dismantle on his own:

1. Full or partial loss of freon as a result of unqualified disconnection of main pipelines.
2. Ingress of moisture-laden air into tubes and heat exchangers. If the split system is incorrectly installed in a different place, incompressible moisture will enter the compressor and can harm it.
3. Clogged copper pipes when pulled out of the wall and during transport. Moisture or sand in the freon circuit is the quick death of the compressor.
4. When disconnecting the lines from the branch pipes of the inner section, you can accidentally roll up the threaded bends soldered to them.
5. Disconnecting the power supply wires without marking on the terminals where they were connected leads to confusion during the re-installation process.
6. Too short cut of the drainage tube leading to the outside of the condensate.
7. Loss of screws and other small parts during transportation that were not fixed after dismantling.

Most of the listed cases lead to expensive repairs of your air conditioner in a specialized workshop, therefore, before removing the split system, you must carefully study the instructions below.

There are three ways to dismantle the indoor and outdoor unit:

• simple disassembly with the release of the refrigerant into the atmosphere;
• with the preservation of freon in the system according to the "by eye" method;
• using special equipment that allows you to completely save the refrigerant in the circuit.

The latter method yields the best results, although all three apply in certain circumstances. So that you do not have problems with the installation of the removed air conditioner and its further operation, it is recommended to act according to the third option, having previously familiarized yourself with the method of preserving freon.

Preparatory activities

The first step is to prepare such a set of tools and accessories:

• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• set of open-end wrenches;
• stationery knife;
• hex keys with dimensions 5 ... 10 mm;
• a manometric manifold or a manometer with a tube and a threaded connection, designed for a maximum pressure of 10-15 bar;
• masking tape and marker;
• insulating tape or ordinary tape.

A gauge manifold will definitely be needed when you plan to mount a split system in another room, so it is better to rent it, but it will be too expensive to buy.

Also, for convenient and safe work, a stepladder is needed to calmly reach the indoor module installed under the ceiling. It is better to pull the outer section, located on the wall of an apartment building, through the window, having previously tied it with a rope. Here, the services of an assistant will be useful.

An important preparation step is to ensure that refrigerant is retained with the least possible loss. For this, the principle of operation of the air conditioner is used, thanks to which all the freon can be collected in one place - the circuit of the outdoor unit. Having prepared the tools, proceed according to the instructions:

1. Covering the infrared element on the remote control with your hand, switch the split system to the "Turbo" mode and set the minimum temperature. Take your hand off the element and point the remote control towards the air conditioner. In this way, you start the compressor immediately at full capacity.
2. Connect the hose from the pressure gauge to the service nipple located on the side of the outdoor unit, after which it will immediately show the pressure in the system. In some models, these pipes are hidden under the cover, it must be removed.
3. Unscrew 2 nuts - plugs located at the ends of the fittings. Under them you will find valves adjustable with a hex wrench. Select the correct hexagon size.
4. Close the valve on the liquid line (this is a thinner tube) and observe the pressure on the pressure gauge. At this time, the compressor draws in freon gas through the second tube.
5. When the arrow of the device drops to zero and begins to go into the vacuum zone, close the second valve and quickly turn off the air conditioner with the remote control. That's all, the refrigerant is in full in the circuit of the outdoor unit.

In split systems filled with different brands of freon (sometimes R22 and R410), the diameter of the thread of the service fitting, where the pressure gauge is connected, is different. The R410 requires a special adapter, which must be prepared in advance.

Refrigerant storage is done by eye without a manifold. After closing the liquid valve, you need to wait about 40-50 seconds, then close the gas valve and turn off the household appliance. The disadvantage is clear: you will not know how much freon has managed to get into the outdoor unit, and it is unacceptable to keep the compressor running for a long time with the line blocked. The result will appear the next time you install the "split" and start it.

Instructions for removing the external module of the split system

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner has to be dismantled when moving or rearranging it to a new location. To repair an apartment, it is not necessary to remove the outer section, but you still have to disconnect the freon lines, cable and drainage. The work is carried out in the following order:

1. Unscrew the hose of the pressure gauge used when pumping refrigerant and replace the end cap nuts.
2. Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the union nuts holding the copper pipes to the fittings, bend them to the side. Use an adhesive tape or electrical tape to protect all open holes in the pipes and pipes of the outdoor unit so that debris and dust do not get inside during operation.
3. To disconnect the electrical cable, disconnect the device from the mains and remove the cover that covers the terminals (located above the freon valves). Before unscrewing the wires, stick a strip of masking tape over the terminals and sign with a color marker to record the connection order. Disconnect the wires and remove the cable.
4. Tie the disconnected lines to the bracket of the outdoor unit so that the copper pipes do not dangle or bend, otherwise they will have to be replaced.
5. Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the outdoor unit to the bracket, tie it with a rope and, together with an assistant, remove the unit.

Professional refrigerators often practice a slightly different approach: they do not unscrew the union nuts and do not remove the freon tubes from the unions of the outdoor unit, but bite them off. Then there is no need to wrap the ends of the pipelines with tape in order to protect them from moisture and debris, because they are flattened with wire cutters. During subsequent installation, the flattened ends are cut off and flaring is performed to fit the union nut.

After disconnecting the cable cores from the terminals, tighten the terminal screws and tighten them, as they may fall out and become lost during transport.

It is better to remove the bracket itself later, when you untie the freon circuit pipes from it. If the highways protrude from the wall no more than a meter, then they do not need to be tied. The tubes should be carefully aligned to make it easier to pull them in from the inside. The bracket is most often attached to 4 anchor bolts, unscrewed with a conventional open-end wrench.

Correct disconnection of highways from the outer section - photo gallery

The mains are disconnected after unscrewing the union nuts Screw in place the plugs that close the port valves Unscrew the cover to disconnect the wires Having noted the location of the cores, disconnect the cable After disconnecting the cable, the screws on the block must be tightened According to the rules, the copper pipelines must be bitten off.

How to remove an outdoor module while preserving freon - video

How to independently dismantle the indoor unit of the air conditioner

To remove the indoor module from the wall, it is necessary to disconnect all communications from it - cable, tubes for freon and condensate. The place where the pipelines are twisted is, as a rule, in the niche of the body, arranged in the lower part. Depending on the model of the split system, there are 2 ways to get to this niche:

1. Unlock 3-4 plastic clips securing the bottom of the unit to the mounting plate. To deflect the bottom of the case from the wall and insert any rod between them, remove the communications harness from the niche.
2. If your model has no “split” latches, then you need to remove the front plastic panel, having previously dismantled the blinds and additional covers (if any).

When you get to the harness, make a longitudinal cut on it with a clerical knife, which will allow you to move the insulation back and grab the nuts with the keys. Do not cut too long, otherwise you will have to change the thermal insulation material later. Perform further operations in this order:

1. Use two open-end wrenches to unscrew the joints of the lines. An important point: the squeegee, soldered to the short tube of the block itself, cannot be rotated, it must be held in place with a key by unscrewing the union nut.
2. Wrap the ends of the pipelines with electrical tape or tape to protect them from dirt.
3. Find the junction of the drain pipe with the outlet piping and disconnect it. You should not cut the corrugation anywhere, so that later it will be more convenient to dock it back.
4. Remove the cover of the electrical compartment (located on the right at the end of the case or under the front panel), make notes with a marker and tape, then unscrew the screws and disconnect the cable conductors. Retighten the screws and screw on the cover.
5. When all communications are disconnected, grasp the case on both sides and remove it from the mounting plate, lifting it slightly upward. Pass the block to the assistant.
6. Remove the mounting plate by unscrewing all plugs.

Considering that condensation may remain in the tray of the indoor unit, it is advisable to protect the wall with plastic wrap before dismantling. If you are renting an air conditioner for an apartment renovation, then such a precaution is unnecessary.

After removing the inner section from the wall, put all the loose parts on it, tighten the screws and slide on the mounting plate. Place the protruding pipes in a niche, fixing with masking tape. Use the same material to secure the opening front panel so that it does not dangle during transportation.

The last step is to dismantle the communications laid along the wall or inside it. There are no difficulties here, the main thing is not to bend the copper pipes under a small radius. From such a treatment at the bend, the flow area decreases, and it is quite difficult to align the tube with an oval profile. Pull the harness out of the outer wall carefully so as not to damage the insulation. If the hole was sealed with polyurethane foam, then it must be cut out in parts. At the end, roll the tourniquet into a ring and fasten it with tape.

The procedure for dismantling the indoor module - photo gallery

To disconnect the electrical wiring, remove the cover of the electrical compartment Before disconnecting the wires, write down the order of their connection. stage - removal of the mounting plate By tilting the body, it must be fixed in this position

How to remove internal blocks of different designs - video

Disassembly in winter

If the outside temperature has dropped to -5 ° C or more, it is recommended to refrain from dismantling for the following reasons:

• the refrigerant cannot be pumped to the outdoor unit;
• in the cold, you cannot disassemble the connections, unscrew the plugs and close the service ports;
• as a result of disassembly, service valve seals often fail.

In a situation where it is impossible to do without removing the split system at negative temperatures, be sure to warm up the fittings of the outdoor unit with a building hairdryer. Then unscrew the plugs and close both valves, thus preserving some of the freon remaining in the circuit of the outdoor unit. Then slowly unscrew the lines from the fittings and disconnect them, releasing the second part of the refrigerant into the atmosphere. Then follow the algorithm described above.

The personnel of specialized firms use manometric stations to pump out freon in winter. But if you rent such equipment, then dismantling will cost more than the salaries of specialists, and the result will be dubious.

At temperatures above -5 ° C, work can be performed according to standard instructions, but it is advisable to use a pressure gauge to control the pumping of refrigerant. If you start to act "by eye", you may not guess the exposure time and still lose some of the freon. It is just as dangerous to overexpose the compressor in operation without cooling (and it is cooled by circulating freon), it can fail from overheating.

You can successfully dismantle a home air conditioner if you take up work in the warm season and follow the instructions given. Not a single trifle should be overlooked; act very carefully and without haste. Do not neglect the pressure gauge, as the loss of refrigerant will negate all the savings from this procedure.

Air has a distributed refrigerant transport pattern between the outdoor and indoor unit. Such a device has many advantages, except for one - the dismantling of the system is much more difficult than the monoblock. And often ignorance of how to remove the air conditioner leads to its failure.

How to remove the air conditioner correctly

There are three prerequisites to remove the air conditioner yourself:

• The outdoor unit must be within reach. If it stands on the facade of an apartment building above the level of the second floor, then it can only be dismantled from a window or from a balcony. Otherwise, it is necessary to involve specialists in industrial mountaineering.
• At least one assistant is required to remove heavy blocks from the wall and properly shut down the compressor.
• It is necessary to rent a gauge station for the type of freon that is loaded into this air conditioner model.

Note. The last point concerns stations with conventional (dial) manometers. Digital manifolds are customizable for the refrigerant brand.

Precautions

If the air conditioner is out of order and cannot be repaired, then it is easy to remove it - there is no need to save the freon, the tightness of the compressor, condenser and evaporator is not important.

This cannot be done with a working air conditioner. And in this case, the main thing is that dust and even air do not get inside the system. Otherwise, we can talk about the guaranteed output of the compressor after the installation and start-up of the air conditioner at a new location. The reason is the peculiarity of the vacuum pump device.

Freon is extremely fluid, and the temperature difference at the inlet and outlet reaches several tens of degrees. No seals and rings used in conventional pumps and compressors will withstand these operating conditions. The required tightness is achieved due to the extremely precise adjustment of the surface of the moving elements of the pump to the internal geometry of the chambers. The slightest scratch by a hard particle will damage the compressor. And such a particle can also be a grain of ice formed when moisture freezes in the air that has got inside.

That is why new air conditioners are sold filled with inert gas, which is pumped out with a vacuum pump before pumping freon.

When the air conditioner is removed, the freon must be pumped out and the blocks must be disconnected. This must be done so that dust and air do not get inside the system. That is, create a vacuum there. And it is advisable to keep the freon completely (or most of it), so that in a new place it would be easier to bring the system into working order.

Preparation

To properly remove the air conditioner, from professional equipment you need only a manometric station, which can be rented.

The rest of the tools are for every home master:

• a set of wrenches and hex keys;
• screwdrivers;
• pipe cutter or side cutters;
• hand locksmith vice;
• pliers.

Freon descent

There are two ways to dismantle a working air conditioner:

1. The use of a manometric station for collecting freon in an external block.
2. Using a station for pumping out and collecting freon, connected to a special two-valve cylinder. The station has its own gauge manifold and compressor for pumping refrigerant in a liquid or gaseous state.

The first method is more "affordable", but it can be used only when the air conditioner is started - freon is transported due to a standard compressor.

The second method is universal. It can be used even in winter when the air conditioner cannot be turned on due to the low temperature outside. The advantage of this method is also that the external unit will be evacuated - without freon in the condenser. Which is much safer when transported to a new location. But renting such a station and a cylinder will cost more than a conventional gauge manifold.

Collection of freon in the external unit

On the side of the casing of the outdoor unit there are two fittings from which the tubes extend:

• thin - for transporting liquid freon from the condenser to the evaporator;
• thick - for pumping gaseous freon into the condenser.

Both fittings have shut-off valve heads under the covers. A branch with a nipple departs from the gas head.

The collection of freon in the condenser takes place in the following order:

1. Protective caps are removed from the fittings and the nipple.
2. A manifold is connected to the nipple.
3. Turn on the air conditioner to the maximum "cold".
4. After a few minutes, the liquid connection valve is closed, stopping the supply of freon to the evaporator.
5. The pressure is controlled by the pressure gauge.
6. When the arrow shows "-1 MPa", tighten the gas connection valve with a hexagon and immediately turn off the air conditioner (for which an assistant is needed) - during prolonged idle operation, the compressor pump may fail.

The pressure gauge reading "-1 MPa" means that all the freon is in the condenser, and inside the evaporator, in the tubes and in the compressor, there is a technical vacuum.

Then you can disconnect the blocks.

Dismantling the air conditioner step by step

Dismantling while maintaining the operability of the dismantled air conditioner is as follows:

• sealing of pipe fittings;
• disconnection and dismantling from the facade of the external block;
• dismantling the indoor unit in the apartment.

Below are the instructions for dismantling the wall-mounted air conditioner.

Outdoor unit

To remove the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, first disconnect the pipes.

There are two ways:

• Unscrew the union nuts, which press the flared edges of the pipes to the flanges of the unions of the outdoor unit. And in place of the nuts, pre-prepared covers are screwed on. Dignity - pipes remain intact. The disadvantage is that there is a high risk of air entering the compressor.
• Copper pipes are cut with side cutters (from the fitting about 15 cm). The edges are folded over and clamped (coined) with a vice. The disadvantage is that pipes must be installed in a new place. Advantage - the operation is quick and the likelihood of dust getting inside with air is much lower.

Note. The other cut end of the tube must also be stamped to protect the evaporator of the indoor unit.

The next step is to disconnect the cables (signal and power), remove the fasteners of the unit to the frame on the outer wall and lift it into the room.

Compressor

One of the situations where it is necessary to remove the outdoor unit may be to replace the air conditioner compressor. And in this case, the dismantling algorithm is slightly different. The differences are as follows:

• Freon must be completely removed from the system. The correct way is to collect it in a cylinder using a freon pumping station. Wrong, but simple - to release it into the atmosphere (if the replacement of the compressor takes place in the warm season and the air temperature is higher than the boiling point of freon at normal pressure).
• There is no need to mint the tubes - after installing a new compressor, the system is "pumped out" by an external vacuum pump.

It is impossible for a layman to replace the air conditioner compressor on his own. In addition to the vacuum pump and gauge station, it is necessary to have a gas burner to disconnect the suction and outlet pipes of the old compressor from the system, and then solder the new unit to the system. And even if you rent equipment, you need to have skills in handling it.

You can remove the unit yourself, but it is better to invite a professional to replace the compressor.

Indoor unit

Most residential split systems have a wall-mounted indoor unit (although there are other placement options). But with the exception of the ducted air conditioner, other types are dismantled according to the general principle.

To remove the indoor wall unit, proceed as follows:

• remove the housing cover;
• disconnect cables and wires;
• cut and minted copper pipes that go to the evaporator of the indoor unit;
• cut the drain pipe, drain the condensate;
• "Snap off" the latches securing the case to the mounting plate;
• remove the block and unscrew the plate from the wall.

Dismantling in winter

The air conditioner can work in winter as well. And not only as a heater, but also in cooling mode (for example, in rooms where there are servers).

Note. It is possible to collect freon in the condenser of the outdoor unit only when operating in cooling mode - in heating mode it already works as an evaporator.

The peculiarity of work in winter in this mode is that there is a lower temperature limit, which is influenced by the type of refrigerant, type of air conditioner and additional equipment. This dependence is also related to the peculiarities of the compressor device - it is oil-based, and the oil thickens at low temperatures. For conventional air conditioners, the lower operating temperature ranges from + 5 ° C to -5 ° C, for inverter air conditioners - up to minus 15-25 ° C.

Before dismantling a split system, these nuances must be taken into account. And if the temperature is below the specified limit, and the air conditioner is not equipped with a "winter kit" with heating the compressor crankcase, then in order to remove the outdoor unit, you need to use a pumping station and collecting freon (it has an oil-free compressor).

Nowadays, many owners of houses and apartments equip their homes with climatic technology that is able to maintain a comfortable indoor climate. One of the most popular appliances for this purpose is the air conditioner. Modern models can have not only one function - air cooling, but also be "all-season", multifunctional, that is, at any time of the year, maintain a normal temperature set by the user in the rooms.

However, the microclimate will actually be comfortable and the use of the air conditioner will not harm the owners if certain important conditions are met. In particular, such devices require some maintenance, so they are usually serviced by professional craftsmen. For this, contracts are often concluded with the company that carried out, for the further service maintenance... They also resort to one-time calls of the masters - there are a lot of ads of such content in the advertising press.

But such a service is not cheap, so many owners of devices are interested in the possibility of self-care for them. One of the important points in the maintenance of HVAC equipment is to keep all of its components, in particular, the filter blocks, clean. Therefore, the question arises as to how possible it is to clean the air conditioner with your own hands? Yes, it's doable! And if you understand at least a little about the design of the device and know how such a process is carried out, then, indeed, you can put it in order yourself.

Why is the air conditioner cleaning necessary?

Is it really necessary to regularly clean climate equipment? Maybe this is just another "money scam" on the part of manufacturers and service companies? No, everything is much more serious!

Devices that cool or heat the air drive it through the filtering devices installed in them, since it is unrealistic to completely get rid of dust in the premises. Accordingly, quite soon a large amount of dirt and dust collects in the filters.

Therefore, if you do not periodically clean the air conditioner, then the following problems will certainly arise:

• There will be a clear drop in the functionality of the device, that is, a significant decrease in efficiency due to the difficulty in passing air through the filters.
• If the air conditioner is not cleaned or performed irregularly, the heat exchanger with the freon inside it will start to overheat, which will increase the load on the compressor, and as a result, the device will wear out quickly.

• High humidity and dust deposits inside and outside the filters contribute to the active reproduction of dust mites and various bacteria. Among pathogenic microorganisms, the most dangerous is Legionella, which causes a serious lung disease - Legionellosis (also called "Pittsburgh pneumonia"). Together with the currents of air passing through dirty filters, spores of fungi and mold can spread through the premises, which can easily provoke allergic reactions, lead to asthmatic attacks and dermatitis.
• An unpleasant smell in a room is probably the smallest nuisance of all that contamination of an air conditioner entails.

It should be noted that air conditioners, which are installed in multi-storey buildings on the uppermost floors, are less susceptible to rapid clogging, since at a high altitude several times less dust is concentrated than in the lower layers of the air. But this does not mean that they will not have to be cleaned - just there may be less dirt deposits.

Much more often it will be necessary to clean and disinfect devices installed in houses located near highways, in industrial zones of the city and in areas under construction, since the air there is the most polluted.

Another negative phenomenon for climatic technology is poplar and other plant fluff, which can literally clog the air conditioner filters in a short time. Therefore, if the area where the house is located is planted with poplars or other trees (shrubs) with a similar form of flowering, then climatic devices should be monitored with special care.

The air conditioner, as a rule, itself begins to "declare" that it needs prophylaxis if it was not cleaned in time. So, such manifestations can be:

• Continuous or temporary noise or crackling noise when turning on the device.
• Unpleasant smell of dampness or decay.
• A clear decrease in the refrigeration capacity of the air conditioner.
• The device began to consume too much electricity with the same or even reduced efficiency - this can be seen by taking readings from the meter.
• The indoor unit began to leak while the air conditioner was operating.

Prices for popular air conditioners

If at least one of the above signs appears, then this indicates that the device needs urgent prophylaxis, otherwise the air conditioner may soon fail.

It is best to prevent such a situation, since it can result in the replacement of individual parts or structural blocks that have failed due to the banal carelessness of the owners, which leads to significant costs.

• It is imperative to clean the filters of the device in the spring, before intensive work in the summer.
• Prevention should be carried out in the fall, before the cold period, when the air conditioner is switched to heating the room.
• Unscheduled prevention is urgent, in any case, if the above symptoms appear.

Thanks to timely preventive maintenance, the air conditioner will work out all its resource without any problems, which is usually 8-12 years and even more.

Cleaning the indoor unit of the split system

The design of the indoor unit of the air conditioner

To figure out where to start preventive maintenance, and what exactly should be subjected to the most thorough cleaning, it is necessary at least a little to familiarize yourself with the design of the device. Most often, split systems have been used recently, and primarily affects the microclimate in the room, the indoor unit of the air conditioner most accessible to the user. Let's start with him.

So, the indoor unit consists of the following units and parts:

1 - Front panel of the device - it is a plastic case with a grill. Through it, air from the room enters the interior of the device for cooling (or heating), naturally, with carried dust. The panel can be easily removed - if necessary, carry out preventive maintenance. For this, a system of locks (latches) is provided.

2 - Coarse filter Is a fine-mesh polymer mesh, which is designed for collecting large dust particles from the air, fluff, lint of animal hair and other similar suspensions. Such a filter requires cleaning, or at least control, at least twice a month. In innovative models, some manufacturers provide automatic cleaning of this filter. The coarse pre-filter is located just behind the front panel of the device.

3 - Fine filter... Usually, not one, but several filters are installed in a cascade, which can clean the air from various contaminants. Each of them has its own structural features:

• Charcoal filter containing activated carbon, and designed to remove unpleasant odors and neutralize harmful substances. This type of filter is not cleaned, but replaced completely, on average every 4 ÷ 5 months.
• Zeolite filter made of porous mineral - zeolite... This version of the filter is capable of absorbing chemical compounds from the air, which include heavy metals, therefore it is more effective than carbon. In addition, unlike a charcoal filter, a zeolite filter lends itself to washing with water and can, with regular maintenance, be used for up to five years.
• Electrostatic the filter removes fine dust from the air by creating an electrostatic field. Dust particles passing through it become electrified and settle on oppositely charged plates. The service life of this filter is unlimited, and it is cleaned as it gets dirty.
• Plasma filter works on approximately the same principle as electrostatic. In it, under the influence of an electric voltage, a low-temperature plasma is formed, capable of destroying harmful substances and small dust particles, at the same time giving them a negative charge, due to which they settle on a positively charged plate. The plasma filter is also designed to remove odors and smoke. The service life of this filter is unlimited, and it is cleaned as it gets dirty.
• UV filter necessarily turns on an LED of a certain spectrum of luminescence, which is capable of disinfecting the air in a room, destroying viruses and bacteria. Ultraviolet light is also able to prevent the growth and spread of mold and mildew inside the air conditioner. This option can be used alone or in combination with a photocatalytic filter.
• Photocatalytic filter is a porous substance with titanium dioxide coated. This filter adsorbs on its surface all air pollutants passing through it, including toxic substances, unpleasant odors, fungal spores, etc. Getting under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, which is included in the complex photocatalytic filter, all toxic substances decompose to water and carbon dioxide. This type of filter copes well with both inorganic and organic air pollutants. The service life of this filter is limited only by the life of the UV lamp.
• Antibacterial filter... Designed to neutralize various pathogenic microflora - microbes and viruses. It contains such natural active ingredients as:

- catechin - an antiseptic found in apples and green tea;

- wasabi is a plant with antibacterial properties.

Prices for filters for air conditioners

air conditioner filter

• Antioxidant filter is made on the basis of flavonoids, which help to convert free radicals into inactive chemical compounds.

4 - Fan that circulates air through the air conditioner. As a rule, the fan can have three to four rotational speeds.

5 - Evaporator. This is, in essence, a radiator in which freon evaporates, due to which the air passing through it is cooled.

6 - Horizontal blinds, regulating the direction of air flows along the vertical. They are controlled remotely, from the remote control, through an electric drive installed in the air conditioner housing.

7 - Indicator panel located on the surface of the indoor unit of the air conditioner. On it, using LEDs or a digital display, the operating modes of the device are shown, including the set temperature.

8 - Vertical blinds regulate air flows in horizontal directions. They can be moved manually or remotely, depending on the equipment of the device.

In addition to the above-mentioned structural elements, it must contain others that are not shown in the figure:

9 - the Tray for condensate... This part is located under the evaporator, and it serves to collect water, which is then discharged through the drain hose from the air conditioner to the outside.

10 - Control electronic board... A central microprocessor is installed on it, with the help of which the device is controlled. The board is usually located to the right of the indoor unit of the air conditioner. Usually, a terminal group is located near it - for connecting the air conditioner to the mains and for electrical connection of the indoor unit with the external one.

11 - Fitting connections located on the lower rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connected to them serve to connect the outdoor and indoor units - this creates a closed circuit for the circulation of the refrigerant.

Several preparatory operations

Due to the fact that the split-system air conditioner consists of two units, external and internal, their cleaning is also somewhat different from each other, which is important to consider when starting its prevention. On the outer block, attention will be sharpened lower, but for now we continue to consider the inner one.

• Before starting to carry out preventive work, it is necessary to protect your hands and respiratory tract, since you must not forget that in the air conditioner case there is a breeding ground for viruses and dangerous bacteria that got there along with dust from the air. They can easily enter the body, which threatens serious diseases, even for a person with excellent immunity.
• Further, the air conditioner must be disconnected from the mains. It would seem that this action is understandable for everyone, but sometimes they forget about it, and remember only at the moment when the first electric shock occurs. It will be good if it is light, only in the form of a tingle….
• Then, it is recommended to cover the area of ​​the floor under the air conditioner with plastic wrap, which is best just thrown away after cleaning the device. It is especially important to protect the floor surface if the air conditioner has been operating for a long time without maintenance, and a large amount of dirt has accumulated in it.

The procedure for general cleaning of the indoor unit

Sometimes it is only necessary to clean the filters of the device, as these are the first to become dirty. I must say that rinsing them yourself is not difficult at all. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out this procedure almost weekly, making it a rule to perform these simple actions before starting cleaning an apartment or house. Naturally, such frequent prophylaxis is necessary if the device is used constantly.

If the cleaning of the climatic equipment is carried out regularly, the house is kept clean, and due to this, the dust does not have time to clog all the pores of the fine filters and coarse cells, then it is enough to dry clean with a vacuum cleaner.

If the air conditioner filters are heavily clogged, then they will have to be additionally washed with special detergents, and then with water.

Detergents are purchased in specialized stores of climatic equipment or in service centers for its maintenance.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	So, the first step is to open the front cover of the air conditioner, which has a protective grill. This process is simple, especially since all owners need to do it quite often, checking the degree of contamination of the device. Further, the coarse filters are carefully removed. They can also be fixed in different ways. So, in some models they can be removed without even opening or dismantling the front panel.
	Then the cover is removed to cover the fasteners. In different designs, this panel can be fixed in different ways - in some models it is enough to simply remove it from the latches, while in others it has to be unscrewed.
	In this model, the plastic case of the indoor unit is fixed with screws located at the bottom of the structure. They are covered with protective plates, which must first be opened. For convenience, you can use an ordinary screwdriver - it picks up the cover screws, and then unscrews the fasteners themselves. The work must be done carefully, since plastic parts are quite fragile. Having unscrewed the fasteners, it is also necessary to dismantle the indicator panel from the case, which is connected to the electrical part of the air conditioner. This element, together with the wires, must be temporarily placed to the electrical unit.
	After unscrewing the screws, the plastic case of the air conditioner is removed. In different models, it is also attached in different ways, therefore, having unscrewed the screws on one side, you should not jerk the case. It must be carefully pulled towards you, and if it cannot be removed, you will have to look for places where it is additionally fixed. Further, fine filters should be removed from the air conditioner.
	The next step is to ensure that the electrical unit of the device is protected from splashes of disinfectants and detergents, as well as jets of water. For this purpose, ordinary hospital shoe covers are perfect - thanks to the elastic band located on them, they will fit snugly to the device, and the protection will not fall off during operation.
	Now it's time for the preparatory work for cleaning. For this purpose, you can use a large, durable plastic bag, but this "device" will not be able to guarantee reliable protection of the surfaces of the room from the ingress of detergents along with dirt from the air conditioner. In specialized stores or on online shopping sites, you can purchase a kit specially designed to protect the floor and walls during the cleaning of climatic equipment. Such a set is more convenient, since it provides almost all the necessary elements both for fixing it and for draining dirty water into a bucket.
	The service package includes a large specially shaped plastic bag with a funnel in the lower central part, on which a plastic spout is fixed for easy fixing of the drain hose. In addition, it contains a polyethylene apron installed between the wall and the bottom of the air conditioner, holders like stationery, with the help of which the stiffeners inserted into the edges of the bag are fixed, and a tape for hanging it under the air conditioner. Unfortunately, the kit does not include elements that act as stiffeners, as well as a hose for draining dirty water. Therefore, you will have to take care of these details yourself. This will require thin plastic or metal tubes, or even ordinary wooden glazing beads, which are used to fix window panes. The length of these rigid inserts must be: 600 mm - 2 pcs. and 1200 mm - 2 pcs. The section of the hose should correspond to the diameter of the spout fixed to the plastic bag so that it fits snugly against the drain spout.
	There are channels in the bag along its edges, into which you need to install stiffeners and fix them with stationery holders. A strap is attached to one side of the bag, with the help of which the bag will be hung on the air conditioner. In its ready-to-use form, this device looks something like the one shown in the illustration.
	Next, an apron is taken - this is an ordinary plastic sheet, which is slipped under the body of the device and is fixed on the wall with masking tape. It will protect the wall from getting dirty lumps of wet dust. Then, a package with stiffening ribs is suspended under the air conditioner, the belt is put on top of the device body. After that, a hose is put on the plastic spout, the other end of which is lowered into an ordinary plastic bucket standing on the floor.
	Further, if after opening the indoor unit of the air conditioner, thick dust layers are found, they can be removed with a soft brush or collected with a vacuum cleaner. After such a superficial removal of accumulated deposits, it will be easier to flush the structural parts from more deeply ingrained dirt.
	After removing the external dust, you can proceed to the preparation of a cleaning disinfectant solution. It is made from products specially designed for cleaning the air conditioner. The solution is mixed in accordance with the proportions indicated on the packaging of the detergents. To apply the solution, you will need a spray gun, in which the jet can be adjusted to the spray diameter.
	The next step is the ready-made solution is applied to all elements of the indoor unit. It is especially necessary to spray the fan and radiator of the device. A huge amount of dust is collected on the impeller blades of the roller fan, which eats into the surface of the material from which it is made. Therefore, it is simply impossible to qualitatively clean this part of the air conditioner from dirt without special means. The radiator is equipped with numerous heat exchange plates, between which dust also accumulates, and it is rather difficult to remove it with plain water, so you cannot do without special equipment. A disinfectant cleaning solution should cover all structural details, since if unwashed areas remain, they will later become a favorable place for fixing new deposits of dirt.
	Detergents are usually applied in two stages. The first spray is liquid disinfectant detergent (in this case, Alphadez), followed by Winns 30202, which is sold in cylinders and produces a generous foam that helps to soften and loosen dirt. After the detergents are applied to the surface of the indoor unit, they must be left for a while, for about 20-25 minutes, so that the solutions will corrode the external and internal dirty layers. When the foam has settled, a test check can be made to see how easily the dirt will be removed.
	After the foam has settled, you can start flushing the split system with water supplied under high pressure with a thin stream. For self-rinsing, you can use the same spray bottle, but this will take a lot of time and a lot of water.
	When flushing the system, dirt along the bottom of the air conditioner case will drain into a plastic bag suspended under it, and from there into a bucket. It is important to ensure that the container does not overflow, as dirty water and disinfectants can seriously damage the floor covering.
	Flushing of the indoor unit of the split-system begins from its rear. Then the radiator is thoroughly rinsed, after which the inside must be cleaned again, since dirt from the heat exchanger grill may end up on the surface of the fan blades.
	While the indoor unit is soaked by the influence of detergents, you can clean the parts of the plastic case removed from the structure. They are also sprayed with disinfectants and detergents. If necessary, the dirt on them can be rubbed with a soft brush, and then these structural elements are washed under running water.
	In addition to the hard parts of the body, it is necessary to rinse the coarse air filters as well. First, they also need to be sprayed with detergents. Then they are left for a while - until the dirt is separated from them, and then washed under running water.
	The filter is washed, but not wiped off - the water should drain from it spontaneously, and it should dry out naturally. When washing the filter, do not use ordinary detergents, as they can negatively affect not only the filter itself, but also the indoor unit of the air conditioner. In addition, do not forget that the molecules of solutions of household chemicals will subsequently enter the air of living quarters.
	It is more difficult with fine filters, since among them there are options that cannot be washed, and dry cleaning will not bring results, and therefore they will have to be replaced with new ones. So, I would like to remind you that replaceable filters include carbon, antibacterial, antioxidant, and vitamin filters. Filters that can be washed include electrostatic, photocatalytic, plasma and zeolite. New replacement filters are usually sold in air conditioner service centers or service centers of manufacturing companies.
	When all the inside of the unit and all the parts removed from it are well dry, you can remove the suspended bag and shoe covers from the electrical unit, and reassemble the air conditioner in the reverse order. Fine filters (new or washed) are returned to their place, then the washed case is fixed, the indicator panel is fixed to it, and the coarse filters are installed last.
	Now that the cleaning work of the air conditioner is completed, you can plug it in, check the operability and proceed to normal operation, until the next maintenance.

Cleaning the drainage system of the air conditioner

One of the most common problems faced by air conditioner owners is water leakage to the floor or walls from the indoor unit. Most often, leaks occur for the following reasons:

• Due to contamination of the drainage system of the device, when condensation cannot pass through the clogged pipe, and therefore begins to drain from the indoor unit into the room. In this case, the drainage system must be cleaned. Clogged drainage occurs due to the fact that the cleaning of the air conditioner units was not performed in time - the dust turned into dirt and clogged the tube.
• If the amount of freon (refrigerant) is reduced in the system, then the temperature of the evaporator also becomes lower, so ice forms on it and water does not enter the pan, and also flows down to the floors of the room.
• If the air conditioner does not have a pressure regulator, then when the temperature on the street drops, the pressure drops and in the system, as a result which also lowers the temperature in the evaporator. However, it should be noted that pressure regulators are usually installed in all modern air conditioner models.
• Freezing of the drain pipe - this happens if the air conditioner is used in winter to cool the premises.
• Another cause of drainage stagnation is wasps or other flying insects, which quite often clog the edge of a pipe outside.

If the drain tube is clogged, then before starting to clean it, it is imperative to flush the drain pan, as well as other elements of the air conditioning system. Drainage cleaning work is carried out with the device turned off from the network and is carried out in the following order:

• The first step is to remove the coarse filters.
• Further, the lower narrow panel is dismantled, hiding the attachment of the case to the air conditioner.
• Then the drain pan is removed - in each structure this operation is carried out differently, but it is not difficult, and it is quite possible to figure it out on the spot. It is necessary to remove this structural element in order to clean it of dirt, as well as in order to get to the hole into which water flows from the sump, and to which the drain pipe is connected.

• The next step is to disconnect the drain tube from the air conditioner and connect the hose of the compressor (hand pump), steam generator or vacuum cleaner with a blowing function to it.

• Another option for cleaning can be a mechanical method. To do this, take a long one, enough hard, but at the same time, a flexible wire (something like a television cable will work well), which is inserted into a disconnected drain tube or directly through a hole in the tray. It is pushed through the entire drainage system. Thus, it must emerge from a pipe overlooking the street, through which condensate escapes.
• However, these are not all the actions necessary in this process, since it must be borne in mind that the cork was removed from the tube, but there was still dirt in it along the stacks. New dust will easily adhere to these remnants of dirt during operation of the air conditioner, and the plug will recover. Therefore, the tube must be thoroughly rinsed. This can be done using a pump or a homemade device consisting of a plastic bottle and a piece of silicone hose put on its neck.

• It is recommended to use chlorhexidine to flush the drain tube, which is an excellent antiseptic and is sold at the pharmacy. Flushing requires approximately 400 ml of fluid.

• If flushing will be carried out through the drain hole, that is, without removing the tube from it, then the flushing liquid can be poured through it. The chlorhexidine bottle has a spout, which allows this procedure to be carried out without the use of improvised means. After 15 ÷ 20 minutes, the system must additionally be purged with a vacuum cleaner or pump. After cleaning the system, it is recommended to check it immediately. To do this, one of the methods described above is again poured into it one and a half liters of ordinary water, which should freely pour out through the pipe on the street.

In the event that the air conditioner is equipped with a drain pump, that is, the condensate is not drained outside, leakage may occur for the following reasons:

• Failure of the pump - it may not work at full capacity or even burn out. In any case, the device must be checked, and for this it will have to be removed.
• If the float chamber is clogged and the float is locked in one position, the pump will stop draining water.
• Float or proximity switch does not work.
• The air exhaust pipe is pinched.
• Insufficient contact of the pump power terminals.

To find the cause of the malfunction in models with a drainage pump, you will have to invite a HVAC repair specialist. It is not recommended to meddle in this system yourself.

Automatic air conditioning cleaning system

Some modern models of air conditioners are equipped with an automatic cleaning system. The principle of operation is quite simple - with a certain frequency, the device switches to idle operation, and the air passing through the filters dries out all the details of the structure.

In addition to the usual automatic cleaning, ionic air cleaning is installed in some models. Thanks to the latter, dust particles are ionized, so they easily fall into the dust collector. In another version of the devices, ionized water dust is used to protect against unpleasant odors - this is a complete ionization and filtration system.

In addition, these air conditioners are usually equipped with sensors that can monitor the composition of the air. If necessary, they instruct the automatic cleaning system to turn on.

These functions of the air conditioner prolong the life of the air conditioner and make it easier to care for. However, you should not think that you will not have to manually clean the device or call a wizard for this purpose, since the automatic system will not be able to remove and rinse its filters, and this is necessary, one way or another.

Find out, as well as familiarize yourself with the criteria for evaluating devices, in a special article on our portal.

Cleaning the external block of the split system

The design of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Now, having figured out how to clean the internal block of the split system, you need to consider how the preventive work of its external part is carried out.

Unlike the inner one, the outer block is washed once a year, but it is still necessary to do this, since it becomes clogged not only with dust, but also with leaves, poplar fluff, small twigs and other debris. From this it becomes clear that it is absolutely impossible not to clean this part of the air conditioner. The most difficult thing is to carry out preventive measures if the device is installed on the upper floors of multi-storey buildings, in this case, you cannot do without specialists.

The structure of the outdoor unit consists of the following blocks and parts:

1 – Fan, occupies most of the case of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. Its functions are to blow off the heat exchanger-condenser.

2 – Capacitor located along the inner walls of the case, near the fan. It is a set of copper tubes, inside of which freon is pumped, which is cooled by a running fan.

3 – Compressor provides circulation of freon along the general closed circuit of the air conditioner. This device is of two types - piston and spiral. The piston version of the compressor is more affordable, but less reliable, in contrast to the piston device. This factor is especially important, given the conditions of winter low temperatures.

4 - control board, but it is only available in inverter air conditioners. In other climatic devices, all electronics are located in the inner case, since external natural factors can negatively affect the electronic components.

5 - the four-way valve It is installed only in models of reversible air conditioners, that is, capable of not only cooling, but also working to heat rooms. This control unit is necessary to change the direction of movement of freon when switching the device to heating mode. After that, in fact, the outdoor and indoor units change their functions - the outdoor one starts to work for cooling, and the inner one - for heating the air pumped through it.

6 - Fitting connections there are both on the indoor and outdoor units, since it is to them that copper pipes are connected, connecting for the air conditioning department into one common refrigerant circulation system.

7 - Filter for cleaning the refrigerant, it is installed in front of the compressor and protects it from the ingress of small particles and copper crumbs, which often remain in the circuit during the installation of the air conditioner.

8 - the Protective cover covering the terminals of electrical cables and fittings. However, in some models such a cover is provided only for electrical connections, the fittings remain open.

Cleaning the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Cleaning the external block of the air conditioner can be done by hand only if it is installed in a private house, and it is safe to work from a ladder, or on the balcony of a high-rise building. Independent work at height without special equipment, insurance system and experience is strictly prohibited!

LG air conditioners prices

LG air conditioner

The cleaning process is carried out in stages, in the following order:

• The first step is to completely de-energize the device.
• Next, the front panel of the outdoor unit is dismantled. Taking it off, the owner will surely immediately will see the entire volume upcoming work.
• First, all large debris found in the case is removed - it is he who slows down the operation of the air conditioner. Large debris is usually hand-picked and no tools are required for this process.
• The next step is to remove dust layers from hard-to-reach areas of the case. For this purpose, brushes of different widths and a handheld vacuum cleaner are used.

• The fan blades can also be vacuum cleaned and, if necessary, wiped with a damp cloth. Wet cleaning should be done carefully so that no water gets on the electrical contacts. If you have to use a large amount of water to wash the fan, then the electrical unit should be covered with plastic wrap.
• The condenser has even smooth surfaces, so it is not difficult to clean it - it can be done with a regular damp cloth or sponge.
• Before replacing the front panel, it should also be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
• Do not touch the electrical unit of the device. Its repair and maintenance should be carried out by specialists.
• The air conditioner can be turned on only after it has completely dried.

Find out how to do it, as well as check out a few simple models with step-by-step instructions, in a special article on our portal.

At the end of the topic, I would like to give some useful tips that will help you not to make mistakes when operating and cleaning climatic devices.

Haier Air Conditioner Prices

Haier air conditioner

• When purchasing an air conditioner, it is recommended to conclude a contract for service maintenance device. It can be carried out free of charge during the warranty period.
• Timely preventive maintenance will extend the period of trouble-free operation of the air conditioner and will save you from many problems.
• It is recommended to entrust the first cleaning and disinfection of the air conditioner to specialists from the service department. At the same time, it is worth carefully monitoring how they carry out preventive measures, so that then use their experience when performing independent work.
• If the air conditioner began to malfunction, then you should not think that the malfunctions will go away by themselves. It is necessary to disconnect it from the mains and call the wizard for diagnostics and possible repairs.
• If it is decided to clean it yourself, then it is necessary to use special detergents and disinfectants. In addition, it is convenient to use comb brushes for cleaning the radiator of the indoor unit, which are designed specifically for this purpose.

• The cleaning of the air conditioner will be better if you use a steam cleaner for it. A jet of hot steam not only removes dirt, but also carries out preventive disinfection of structural parts.
• Assembly and connection to the network can be done only after all parts of the air conditioner are completely dry.
• Do not start the air conditioner when detergents are applied to its internal surfaces and the fan. It is extremely dangerous to do this, as water can get into the electrical unit of the device, which will cause a short circuit in the network. In addition, dirt accumulated on the fan blades will scatter throughout the room, hitting the surfaces of walls, ceiling, floor, furniture and other interior items.
• In order for the device to serve for a long time, it is necessary to follow all the rules of its operation specified by the manufacturer in the instructions.

So, from all that has been said above, it becomes clear that it is quite possible to carry out work on cleaning climatic equipment on your own, if you know the design of the device and the procedure for carrying out this process. If the owner can carry out the preventive maintenance of the air conditioner on his own once and understands all the nuances, he will no longer have to call a master for this purpose, since a specialist will only be needed to solve more serious problems.

And, probably, the interested reader will benefit from a video plot in which an amateur craftsman shows how he cleans his air conditioner on his own.

There is a lot of information on the Internet, articles and videos on this issue, we will try to generalize with you and look from the technical side at the process of cleaning and maintaining a split system (air conditioner) both with our own hands and when calling specialists.

To begin with, I would like to answer a question that worries everyone and everything.

How often should the air conditioner be cleaned? There is no definite answer, it depends on the operating conditions and habitat. Air conditioning in an apartment is one thing, and air conditioning in a Bar, Cafe or Food block is another thing. We will assume that we have an ordinary household air conditioner in an apartment, with a standard capacity of 7-12 kbt.

We answer: cleaning and maintenance of the air conditioner must be carried out annually!

What is proper air conditioner cleaning?

The second question is what to mean by cleaning a split system (air conditioner). Cleaning the filters of the indoor unit can also be called cleaning, but there is little sense from such "cleaning". Cleaning the air conditioner (split system) is, first of all, cleaning the heat exchangers (evaporator and condenser) of the indoor and outdoor units, cleaning the fan, cleaning the squirrel wheel, cleaning the drainage system.

How to properly clean the filters of a split system?

Split system filter cleaning should be the default, filters should be cleaned every two to three weeks. This lovely girl will show you how to do it right.

Well, how to clean a split so that there is a real sense from it?

It is difficult to do this without a steam cleaner and a high pressure washer, but you can do with improvised means, it is advisable to do such cleaning before each summer season.

How to disassemble and clean a home air conditioner yourself

I found a very good video on the Internet on how to properly clean the internal block of a split system on your own, look:

What is the difference between cleaning and servicing an air conditioner (split)?

Maintenance is carried out by specialists using a steam cleaner and a sink, which, in principle, you can do on your own, but the key difference between maintenance and cleaning a split system is that specialists measure the freon pressure in the system, and, if necessary, refuel the required amount of freon to split cooled at an acceptable level. Diagnostics of electrical and installation connections is carried out automatically. In other words, cleaning the split system is part of the maintenance of air conditioners. I found a decent video, good guys, they explain everything in detail, look:

After watching these videos and reading the article, I think all of you have a little clearer understanding of what kind of animal “cleaning air conditioners” and “what they eat it with”. And you decide what to do, clean your split yourself, or call specialists. But I would like to summarize all of the above:

1) You can clean the air conditioner filters yourself. every 2-3 weeks

2) Cleaning the indoor unit (condenser, squirrel-cage, drain) must be done every day on their own or by calling specialists

3) Maintenance (comprehensive cleaning of indoor and outdoor units, refueling with freon) must be carried out every two to three years calling specialists

Figures and prices

The average cost of cleaning a split system in Krasnodar is 1300-1500 rubles per season. This includes cleaning the indoor and outdoor units of the air conditioner, disassembled. With a steam cleaner and a sink, it happens just with a steam cleaner. In good services, during the high season there is usually a queue for at least 2-3 days. Happens more, and then how lucky.

The annual loss of freon (microcracks and micro leaks) laid down by the manufacturer is 5-7%.

Refueling with freon, if necessary, is not included in the cleaning cost, and can be 500-1000 rubles additionally, depending on the amount of freon.

how to remove the case from the samsung air conditioner | Topic author: Vladislav

how to open the air conditioner to get to the fan bottom 2 screws found what needs to be done to open

Vadim Unscrew two or three screws under the horizontal blind.

Then gently push the bottom of the case away. Try to let the blinds go through the slot. There are three hooks on top, they will unhook themselves. After removing the case, carefully remove the thermo-resistor from the slot.
Then on the left side, unscrew one screw holding the drain pan, gently slide it off the hooks and let it hang from the drain hose.
The fan will be freely accessible.
Be careful when assembling. Don't break the hooks.

Nikita with all the foolishness on a swing on the floor

Victoria Download instructions for it - there is a disassembly in pictures. At least on my HITACHI so.

Yuri It is taken out of the case. very tight.

Tags: How to remove the cover of the indoor unit of the Samsung air conditioner

Dismantling, cleaning the indoor unit of the Panasonic split system P.S. Do not forget to lubricate the impeller bearing in ...

Service maintenance of the indoor unit of the air conditioner ...

Hello everybody! At the request of my friends and my accomplices in general, I want to write a post about the service of air conditioners, because it is relevant already at the moment (I hope the moderators will be understanding)! The fact is that the consumer is often misled by offering them maintenance of the air conditioner ANNUALLY !!! This is not necessary, because it all depends on the degree of pollution of the room itself, where the air conditioner is located!
How to understand that cleaning is already inevitable? Let's take a look at the process of cleaning the indoor unit, perhaps you yourself are able to perform this operation:
So before us is the usual internal block:

At the bottom, so as not to dirty the repair, we glue the film onto ordinary masking tape:

We open the lid, remove the mesh filters and rinse them under running water (you can do this at any frequency, but at least once every 2 months!)

Now we completely remove the upper part of the case, together with the lid ...

We unfasten the bath (through it the condensate enters the street) ...

and then enjoy the gruesome sight! Here we can already understand what we breathe, including a clogged air conditioner ...

We turn on 22-25 degrees on the remote control (do not turn on the minimum ... never in the heat, not a single air conditioner will give you 16-17 degrees !!! You ditch it stupidly!) And enjoy the coolness!

… I will tell you about the outdoor unit later! I would like to inform you that I have been dealing with air conditioning and ventilation since 2000 and I am ready to help with advice and business in this area !!! So ask! I will answer later, in the evening I will answer everyone, because now there is a lot of work .. I run away) Have a good day everyone!

Do-it-yourself split system cleaning

How to properly remove the air conditioner from the wall with your own hands

disassembled indoor unit. How to remove the air conditioner compressor and the outdoor unit itself with your own hands ... Remove the protective cover from the case; ...

How to disassemble LG air conditioner? LG HVAC equipment disassembly process: basic rules and methods. Dismantling the LG air conditioner with your own hands.

How to disassemble LG air conditioner

How to disassemble LG air conditioner? The solution to this problem is largely determined by the series and model of the climate system. You can disassemble the LG air conditioner only if you have certain skills, as well as having a general understanding of the operation and technical features of climate control equipment in general. Speaking about the analysis of the air conditioning system, most often they mean the process of disassembling the compressor of the system. It is necessary to draw your attention to the fact that the compressor in the air conditioning system is designed to compress freon, as well as to maintain its normal and uninterrupted movement through the tubes. From freon, together with a pressure of three to five atmospheres, the compressor outputs fifteen to twenty atmospheres, and then, the cooling agent enters directly into the condenser. The compressor is one of the main parts of the air conditioning system, and it also requires repair with direct disassembly. In order to ensure safe work, you must first get rid of the presence of refrigerant in the system. In addition, such actions will save money, since the evacuated refrigerant can then be re-poured into the lg air conditioning system, and can also be effectively used in work.

Further, it is recommended to carry out the process of connecting the gas and liquid lines of the compressor-condensing unit. After that, you will need to connect an evacuated cylinder to the service port of the LG air conditioner, and then drain the refrigerant. If you want to speed up such a process, then you will need to take a fan heater and blow off the radiator. Further, after getting rid of the refrigerant, it is necessary to proceed with the removal of the compressor. We disconnect the housing cover of the KKB, and also disconnect the suction and discharge lines, and also disconnect the wires that go directly to the fan and the compressor itself. We remove the fastening of the valves and the radiator on the heat exchanger, and then remove the heat exchanger itself. Such a dismantling procedure allows access to all necessary fasteners, and also makes it possible to easily carry out removal, while not deforming all piping piping. Then you will need to drain the oil from the compressor. If you have a reciprocating compressor, then you will need to remove the liquid using the suction pipe. In a scroll or rotary compressor at the bottom of the case, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of five millimeters through which you can drain the oil.

In this case, you will need to constantly monitor so that metal shavings do not get inside. Therefore, the hole will need to be drilled not completely, but the jumper that remains will need to be punched. After such actions, flush the lg air conditioner compressor with R-11, R-113 freons or carbon tetrachloride. First, it is necessary to ensure that the flushing liquid that is poured out directly from the compressor becomes transparent. After that, you need to fill the device half with a special flushing liquid, and the other half with oil. Now turn on the compressor in the system for a few minutes, and then drain the entire mixture. If necessary, then this procedure should be repeated to completely remove the spent liquid. It is recommended to entrust the process of disassembling the LG air conditioner to a qualified engineer who specializes in HVAC equipment. Now you know how to disassemble the air conditioner yourself.