Warming of concrete. Necessary materials

Greetings to experienced and novice DIYers! This time we will consider how to reduce the heat loss of a house with a "cold" roof by installing a heater. As you know, more than 30% of the heat escapes through the roof, if roofing cake or there is no insulation, and this is not enough to agree.

Choice of technology

Usually, one of two options is used to insulate the ceiling under a "cold" roof, namely:

installation of insulation on the ceiling inside the room (if the height of the ceilings allows it to be done);
thermal insulation of the sub-floor of the attic.

In the first case, only a rigid heat insulator is used - basalt wool mats or slab polystyrene foam. The attic floor is less demanding - mineral wool or glass wool in rolls will do, bulk materials(expanded clay, sawdust, etc.).

Tools and materials

For preparatory work we need:

putty for wood, fire retardant composition (for wooden floors);
deep penetration primer, cement putty (for concrete slab);
putty knife;
brush;
polyurethane foam and a knife.

To install thermal insulation from the inside of the room, we need to prepare:

electric drill with drills;
wooden slats or aluminum profiles + vapor barrier film and tape (for subsequent sheathing);
glue + plastic nails with umbrellas and a rubber hammer (if you are going to make a stretch ceiling).

If you decide to insulate the floor from the attic side, then you need to stock up on:

vapor barrier film and tape;
wooden blocks;
nails and a hammer.

Preparatory stage

The first step is to properly prepare the base. In wooden floors, small gaps must be filled with wood putty, large gaps are foamed. Remove excess aggregate after hardening with a knife. Apply a fire retardant antiseptic to the entire surface to be insulated with a brush or spray.

The concrete ceiling needs to be stripped decorative finishing as well as base plaster if it does not adhere well. Small cracks must be deepened and widened, repaired with putty, wide cracks must be filled with foam. If you plan to stick the insulation, do not forget to treat the floor surface with a contact or a similar primer.

Be sure to hide the hidden wiring in the corrugated pipe. To ensure a snug fit of the slab insulation, it may be necessary to make slots for the wiring in the material.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling using glue

If you plan to install stretch ceilings in the future, you don't have to bother too much, but simply stick the heat insulator on the ceiling.

This can be done as follows: we apply the adhesive composition to a sheet of heat-insulating material, and then press it tightly against the ceiling. As glue, you can use "liquid nails", polyurethane foam, or cement-based glue (mixed according to the instructions and applied with a spatula pointwise, with volumetric blotches).

Additionally, attach the heat insulator to the base with "mushrooms" - for this, use a drill with a 6 mm drill to prepare holes for fasteners (4 per sheet, retreating about 100 mm from the corners), and drive polymer nails with umbrella hats into them with a rubber hammer. The seams between the insulation boards should be foamed. It should look like this:

Installation of a heat insulator on the ceiling - frame method

If you are going to sheathe the ceiling with sheet material or clapboard, we put the thermal insulation between the frame slats. To install the frame, we need to do the following:

1. prepare a lathing scheme (the step of installing the slats should be equal to the width polystyrene board or be 30-40 mm less than the width of the basalt mat when insulated with mineral wool);

2. using a tape measure, a level and cords, make a markup;

3. attach wooden slats to the ceiling (by sinking the caps of the self-tapping screws in the wood) or aluminum profile(using straight hangers), the fixing step is 500 - 600 mm;

4. Carefully check with a level that all elements of the crate are located horizontally and in the same plane - you can pre-stretch the transverse control cords;

5. fill the gaps between the strips and ceiling slab;

6. insert a sheet heat insulator, additionally it can be fixed by bending the shelves of direct suspensions;

7. if necessary, foam the seams between the elements;

8. install a vapor barrier - the membrane is fixed on wooden slats staples, and on aluminum - double-sided tape.

We insulate the ceiling from the attic side

The general scheme for insulating the attic space is as follows:

The wooden structure is covered with a vapor barrier membrane - the film canvases, fastened with tape, are laid on the surface, strictly repeating its relief. Pre-check if the height of the log is sufficient to properly lay the selected insulation. If the thickness of the heat insulator is greater, additional bars are stuffed onto the logs.

Place the roll or board material between the joists, the material should fit snugly, without voids, to the base. The structure of mineral wool and glass wool allows it to be mounted in a spacer, but the mats should not bend, the roll material should not be tamped and strongly squeezed. Fill the gaps around the foam boards with polyurethane foam. Further mounted roll waterproofing, the counter-lattice is stuffed and you can start laying the floor covering.

Backfill insulation

A thick layer of expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top of the vapor barrier (a plastic film or glassine is used). Expanded clay is resistant to fire and does not require processing, and sawdust should be laid in layers, treating each layer 100 mm high in fire with a bioprotective compound. Or sawdust is pre-mixed with clay, lime and a small amount of water - the resulting mass is resistant to fire and damage by rodents.

How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

Concrete ceilings can cause a lot of trouble for the owners of an apartment or a private house with reinforced concrete ceilings. The main problem is their ability to perfectly transmit noise from neighbors and poor heat saving characteristics. Only owners of apartments in high-rise buildings are faced with the problem of noise from neighbors, but the problem of insulation of a concrete ceiling affects all owners of both apartments and private houses. Therefore, further, the conversation will focus on the insulation of such floors.

Options for arranging an insulating layer

The type of building will be of the utmost importance when creating a heat-saving layer. If this is a private house, then all work can be carried out from the attic, and in a city apartment, this is possible only on the last, upper floors of buildings. But, usually it is the tenants of these apartments who feel the need for this procedure.

In an apartment building, you will have to insulate from the inside of the premises, and here, the choice of material will already be of great importance - it should be as thin as possible, and at the same time, it is very effective to keep heat.

In private houses, it is possible to carry out insulation work by placing the heat insulator in the internal cavities of the floors. Here it will be possible to use a lot of different materials - from sawdust to the most modern heat-insulating coatings.

Material selection

It is possible to insulate a concrete ceiling with practically the same materials that are used for other types of buildings. The only difference will be that the reinforced concrete floors are not hollow, and you will not be able to use the existing voids.

The main and most popular insulation, regardless of the type of construction, is mineral wool. It has many advantages over other types of insulation materials, but there is also a significant drawback - it is necessary to lay a sufficiently thick layer of mineral wool to provide high-quality thermal insulation.

If the height of the room where the ceiling is supposed to be insulated is not too high, using mineral wool is not the best idea. She will "eat" too much space under the ceiling. The only option when this parameter will not be of fundamental importance is thermal insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor of the building. All work can be done with outside floors, and this will not affect the existing height of the rooms.

The second, no less popular insulation, which is used with great success for the same purposes in city apartments and private houses, is foam. It is laid in a much thinner layer, which does not reduce the height of the premises so much. It can also be used for outdoor installation.

All bulk insulation, like expanded clay, or mixtures of sawdust with various other materials, can only be used outside. Indoors, they cannot be used for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

Warming methods

The difference in the methods will be only in the fact that some of the heat insulators can be mounted on a specially constructed frame, and some are laid on the outside of the ceiling, which is the floor in the upper room.

From inside the rooms, you can simply glue the foam tiles to the ceiling, immediately receiving both the design of the ceiling with a beautiful finishing material and a small heat-saving layer.

But such insulation is usually not enough. More substantial measures need to be taken. And in this, the same foam can help, but of a greater thickness than decorative tiles.

Its advantage is that you can glue the foam boards directly onto the floor using ordinary tile adhesive. After gluing, the foam is plastered over the mesh, and finished with a finishing layer decorative coating... The method is inexpensive, but it requires fairly good plastering skills for subsequent finishing.

If you do not have such skills, you can use any insulation, like mineral wool. They are not just attached to the ceiling, but fit into a special frame. It has to be collected.

Assembling the base is the same as for any suspended ceiling system. The first, in the frame base, is the vapor barrier. The overlap of adjacent strips must be at least 10 centimeters. All joints of the material are glued with reinforced construction tape.

On top of the insulation, another pass is made with a vapor barrier, with gluing all joints and overlaps.

After that, a plasterboard topcoat can be mounted on the frame, or another finish can be used. Plastic or wood-imitating panels can be one of the options.

When creating a heat-saving pillow outside, all work begins with laying a vapor barrier film or glassine. Other vapor barriers can be used.

The next is insulation. Variants are possible here, since on the outside, there is usually an attic, the height of which can be sacrificed and cheaper types of insulation can be used that require laying in a thick layer.

If you intend to walk on an insulated surface, it is necessary to lay a log for the future floor. The cells obtained after their installation are stacked in series - a vapor barrier film or other types of insulators, an insulating layer, again a vapor barrier.

The subfloor is laid on the battens of the crate, which is subsequently closed with a topcoat.

Conclusion

Insulating a concrete ceiling is not so difficult. The problems that arise are, as a rule, associated not with the insulation process itself, but with the consequences of the construction of a heat-saving structure, if it is located indoors.

Therefore, whenever possible, it is necessary to insulate concrete floors from the outside, and not from inside the premises.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling - what are the options?

Concrete ceilings cause a lot of trouble, because their heat-saving parameters are not very good, and they perfectly let the noise through. Therefore, the owners of many apartments and houses with concrete ceilings have to think about the insulation and sound insulation of such a ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a day and without repair

In winter, the insidious cold is ready to get into our house through the slightest available loophole. If you have already insulated the floor and walls, and the heat still disappears very quickly, then it's time to think about the ceiling.

People who happened to live on the last floors of Khrushchev's are not by hearsay familiar with the problem of cold air flows from above - concrete ceilings with a worn-out mound of expanded clay on top are completely unable to keep the miserable degrees measured by the centralized heating system.

Thus, a non-insulated ceiling is a powerful screen for external elements and frost.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house:

Most often, the questions of ceiling insulation are asked by residents of private houses with an autonomous heating system. or meters with a centralized one: it is in such cases that it is easiest to calculate the costs of maintaining a favorable microclimate in the premises.

* It is worth noting that some autonomy at home allows you to choose from a large number of options:

You can use any thermal insulation materials, from expanded clay to mineral wool;
Insulate on the inner surface of the ceiling and in the attic;
At the same time, make a final repair of the ceiling and do without it.

In general, in own home the choice of materials and techniques depends on the wishes of the residents and the size of their wallet. Consider the options and choose the one that suits you:

Insulation with polyurethane foam tiles... This option combines both insulation and final repair, in addition, you can choose the design of the material at your discretion - now the ceiling tiles are presented in full on the market. colors, with or without stucco.

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare the ceiling, level it and get rid of irregularities, putty cracks. How to do this is written in detail here: “And the ceiling was leveled? Or how to level the ceiling with your own hands "

The tile itself is attached with glue. Polyurethane foam has extremely low thermal conductivity so this little design trick will keep you warm.

Styrofoam and its modern analogue expanded polystyrene- one of the cheapest materials that allow you to insulate without special costs.

If you are planning to equip a new ceiling design, for example, to make a multi-level one of plasterboard or tension, then whole sheets of foam can be nailed to the ceiling under the metal guides on the ceiling with the help of “umbrella” dowels.

Most affordable way insulation of the ceiling consists in creating a heat-insulating layer of bulk materials... To do this, it is enough to cover the attic with a waterproofing film, on top of which you can pour a layer of expanded clay, wood shavings and sawdust, and even sand or earth.

It is important to consider the load that your ceiling can withstand - for beamed ceilings, it is better to use sawdust, with a layer thickness of 15-20 cm, concrete floors allow you to even fill in the earth, the layer of which, for complete thermal insulation, must be at least 17 cm.

The classic way. If your task sounds like: "How to insulate the ceiling in a day and without repair", then this method will be the most suitable for you, since all work is done in the attic. The tight fit of materials and the upward shift of the dew point prevent condensation from forming on the insulated ceiling, in addition, it is precisely such insulation that can serve maximum amount years without additions and amendments.

You will need waterproofing, slats or stapler, styrofoam, rock wool, board depending on the use of the attic.

If it is used as a living space or for storage, then it is better to use an 80 mm board, on which you can move without fear, in other cases 40 mm will be enough.

The sequence of actions for classic ceiling insulation:

Prepare the material first: Measure the spacing between the beams or the width of the floor slabs and cut the waterproofing and foam into pieces that can fit exactly between the beams.

The waterproofing film is spread first and is attached to the beams with the help of rails or a stapler. Please note that to use the strips, the insulating film must be cut with an allowance of 4-5 cm.

Insulation in the apartment:

The issue of ceiling insulation in an apartment arises only when living on the top floor... At the same time, there are much more problems than in a private house: equipping an attic for municipal services is an expensive pleasure, and hardly anyone will allow you to create embankments from cheap materials.

Nevertheless, in the houses of the Khrushchev era, sand, expanded clay, construction debris were previously poured into attics., which was dilapidated from time to time, rotten and began to let the winter cold into the apartments. It is quite possible to take advantage of this by picking up the same material.

The main methods of insulating ceilings in apartments remain:

The use of polystyrene for modern suspended and stretch ceilings;
Polyurethane tiles and molding;
Contacting utilities.

However, there is another tricky way, which was often used in Soviet times and has been undeservedly forgotten now. The bottom line is the rough repair of the apartment with clapboard.

As you know, this material, which is gradually acquiring a second life in the form of a European version, is attached to a crate, under which you can lay fiberglass or mineral wool, up to 7 centimeters thick.

Consider the fact that the old grandfather's way insulation with clapboard facing will lower your ceiling by 8-10 cm - with a wall height of 2.5 m or less, this is too much.

There are plenty of insulation methods, their choice is directly related to the materials of the floors, place of residence and financial capabilities.

*On a note: The most reliable and durable is the classic method of insulation using mineral wool and foam.

How to insulate the ceiling

Consider all methods of ceiling insulation - in a private house and apartment. We will tell you what materials should be used. Let's remember the undeservedly forgotten method,

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house: insulation rules, materials and methods

An example of ceiling insulation in a house

In the conditions of the Russian winter, ceiling insulation in a private house is far from the last question. To save on heating costs, it is important to minimize the heat losses that occur through all the building envelopes - windows, walls, doors, ceiling. Homeowners are trying to install high-quality windows and doors, the walls are insulated, but the ceiling is often forgotten. Meanwhile, up to 20% of the heat can go through this enclosing structure!

Everyone who remembers school physics lessons and knows that warm air, according to natural laws, rises up, and then it comes into contact with the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling. As a result, condensation forms, that is, the air humidity in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the household, because dampness can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, every owner of a private house should be puzzled by the issue of insulation.

General rules for insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and other enclosing structures, a labor-intensive, but necessary measure. The result of these efforts will be a comfortable temperature in the house with minimal heating costs.

Here general rules that need to be taken into account when deciding what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the house:

Insulation material must be environmentally friendly.
Ceiling insulation must not spread fire in the event of a fire.
By reducing heat loss, the selected material should not have a significant effect on the processes of natural steam circulation occurring in the house.
The insulation material should not get moisture.

Materials that can be used for insulation

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When looking for materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a private house, several effective solutions are possible:

Expanded clay... This is a loose insulation, lightweight, absolutely non-combustible material, which is made on the basis of clay. The material is environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, has good thermal insulation characteristics, rodents and pests do not start in it.
Mineral wool... This is perhaps the most popular insulation option, it has excellent thermal insulation qualities. The disadvantages include hygroscopicity, this material should be carefully protected from moisture.
Ecowool... Cellulose based material, environmentally friendly, has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Styrofoam. Lightweight material polymer origin. Fireproof, easy to use, not afraid of moisture.
Penoizol... It is porous polymer material for insulation with an unlimited service life.

Methods for insulating the ceiling in the house

The choice of material is also associated with the method that will be used for insulation. There are two ways to carry out insulation:

It should be noted that both methods are capable of providing a decent level of insulation, so you need to choose the one that will be more convenient to perform.

Techniques differ in technology and types of materials used. In order not to be mistaken when answering the question, how is it better to insulate the ceiling , it is worth remembering an immutable rule: if insulation is made from the inside, then you should choose a vapor-permeable insulation... In the event that the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic or outside a private house, then you should purchase a material with vapor-proof properties.

How to insulate the inside of the room?

Ceiling insulation with foam

As a rule, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is combined with the construction of suspended or stretch ceilings. In this case, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling slab and the covering to be installed.

When insulating the ceiling of a house from inside the room, most homeowners choose mineral insulation, which is available in rolls or mats.

If you plan to arrange suspended ceilings in the house, then first a frame is assembled from a metal profile for attaching drywall (or other material with which it is planned to sheathe the ceiling). Then, layers of insulation are glued in the space between the profiles.

Advice! It is convenient to use tile adhesive for gluing mineral insulation, it quickly sets and holds the material well.

In the event that stretch ceilings are to be installed, the frame will have to be assembled specifically for laying the insulation. It is convenient to do this from a bar.

Advice! In no case should mineral wool be compacted during installation, since its heat-insulating properties depend on the presence of air spaces between the fibers.

A separate issue is the installation of lamps. The fact is that even modern lamps heat up a little during operation, and the presence of insulation on the ceiling does not allow the heat to leave freely. As a result, the lamps burn out quickly. Therefore, you should either cut out the insulation in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe location of the lamp, or leave air gap between the insulation layer and the ceiling sheathing material. The first method reduces the effectiveness of insulation, and the second requires a significant decrease in the level of the ceiling.

Advice! There is another way to solve the problem with lamps - do not use built-in ones, but install the most common chandeliers and sconces.

Insulation of the ceiling from the attic side

This option is the most effective. Consider how you can insulate the ceiling with outside premises? Almost any kind of insulation is perfect here. However, if it is decided to use mineral wool, then a layer of vapor barrier film should be laid in front of it.

When using layers of mineral wool or foam, the material is placed in the gaps between the timber frame bars. When using polystyrene, the joints should be sealed with polyurethane foam.

If the attic is planned to be used, then the floor should be made on top of the installed insulation by screed or by arranging the floor on the logs.

So, taking up the insulation of the ceiling in a private house with your own hands , first of all, it is necessary to decide on which side of the ceiling the insulation will be carried out. Then you can choose a heater from the options above.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands outside and inside: photos and videos

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house - we choose the right material, we insulate the ceiling from the outside and from the inside with our own hands, guided by the instructions, photos and videos

The need to insulate a concrete ceiling from the inside more often arises from the owners of the upper floors of buildings with a flat roof. If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic, then this is the best option to keep warm in the apartment.

Multi-storey buildings in cities traditionally have floor slabs made of concrete slabs... Some private houses have the same floors, resting on the foundation or its continuation - ground floor where utility rooms for various purposes are located.

Floor slab- ceiling and floor at the same time in apartment buildings. Plates rest on load-bearing walls, the ceiling is covered with several slabs. Sealing the joints between the slabs and the places where the slabs rest on the walls cracks: either due to shrinkage of the building, or poor work by the builders. Part of the heat leaves the apartments precisely through the joints of the plates: wall or ceiling.

Homes in need of overhaul usually insulated outside by thermal fur coat... This method is applicable to insulate the ceiling from the inside. Having some construction skills, you can insulate the ceiling from the inside on your own.

Houses that were built 20-30 years ago were designed taking into account the maintenance of heat in the house with overconsumption of thermal energy... This is due to the fact that gas and electricity were cheap, and therefore the requirements for building panels for thermal conductivity were low. But the times of cheap energy consumption are over, houses still function with heat losses, for which the owners pay the price.

Natural desire to reduce heat loss - insulate the building... There are enough ways and materials for this.

Recommendation. How to determine the number of sheets of insulation? To do this, you need to know the geometric dimensions of the ceiling and the dimensions of the purchased insulation sheets. Make a drawing of the ceiling on a scale (a sheet of a squared notebook is suitable) and mark the layout of the sheets to scale. Try options with the least waste. It is advisable to start from the central axis, so the symmetry will be observed.

But if putty is supposed to be put on top of the material, this condition is optional.

In the course of the work that you will see now, decide what tool and material you need.

1. Ceiling preparation. Remove loose plaster, seal cracks and crevices cement mortar... Apply the primer in two coats perpendicular to each other.

2. Ceiling alignment: with a thin layer of putty, if the ceiling is even, or immediately after priming, level the ceiling with a 50 x 50 or 50 x 70 mm beam along the location of the plates and with a distance so that the joint falls on the central axis of the beam.

The primer is applied with a roller or brush. If the ceiling is even and covered with a thin layer of putty, then notches are made with a spatula, cleaned and primed with a spray gun: this additionally blows off dust from the ceiling, and the primer under pressure penetrates deeper into the pores of the concrete slab.

3. Then apply a sheet of insulation, mark the border of the sheet and apply a layer of 1-2 mm KNAUF Sevener plaster-adhesive mixture and iron it with a comb trowel.

4. To the prepared place glue the sheet.

On the second and subsequent sheets at the joints on the butt apply glue, apply and try to the panel is firmly attached to the ceiling, and to the panel without leaving a gap. Then we fix each panel with plastic umbrellas at the corners and center of the panel with 75 mm self-tapping screws. Umbrellas should be slightly sunk into the surface of the panel, and the grooves should be leveled with a mixture. Then we prepare the surface for reinforcement with rolled mesh. The width of the mesh is 1m, we apply a layer of glue to the foam from wall to wall.

5. Place the mesh on the filler. We glue, iron with a spatula.

6. After reinforcement with mesh, perform putty with Knauf Finish mixture... This work is done by master finishers. After complete drying - grout the entire surface of the ceiling with a special plank with mesh No. 120.

Outcome of work:

Done soundproofing the ceiling... A damping layer of putty is applied between the ceiling and the foam;
The ceiling is insulated with foam 20 mm thick;
The ceiling is painted with moisture resistant paint. This means that the insulation is protected from moisture ingress.

The second option for insulation of the ceiling on the lathing of wooden beams will do when the ceiling height allows it. The height of the bar will be added. You can use another 12 mm insulation panel ISOTEX Alaska. These panels are seamless as indicated on the packaging. After their installation, no additional cladding is needed.

They are given instructions on how and with what to fasten, but only professionals can do the work with these panels. There are also standard insulation methods - suspended ceiling systems, where insulation is laid in the gap between the ceilings.

Insulation of the ceiling in the basement of an apartment building

The choice of insulation method depends on the purpose of the basement:

Premises for storing agricultural products;
Placement of heating and plumbing equipment;
Arrangements for GYM's, billiard rooms;
Premises for other purposes.

Of these, it is necessary to designate: heated and unheated cellars. It matters for ground floor residents apartment buildings... As a rule, residents insulate concrete floor slabs with basements with a device additional thermal insulation on the floor side... It is not only effective but also cheaper.

In most cases it is necessary to open the floors before cement screed, eliminate defects (potholes, cracks); you can additionally fill in a thin layer of self-leveling cement mortar, and after hardening, make a substrate from Parkolag thermal insulation material from ICOPAL - a Finnish thermal insulation substrate for laminate, linoleum, parquet.

This underlay is laid on a flat surface of a cement screed without waterproofing and vapor barrier, because the bottom layer of the underlay has micro-gaps with the floor and thus ventilation between the laminate and the concrete floor is achieved.

In another case, in the basements of some houses storage facilities for agricultural products... In addition to maintaining a certain temperature, such basements must be dry in order for the food to last longer. Warm air, rising up, meets a barrier in the form of cold cement board, where it cools down to the “dew point” on its surface and drops out in the form of droplets from the ceiling. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to prevent the contact of warm air with the stove. Arrangement of ventilation with temperature control will solve this problem, but you need to see what energy consumption occurs in this case.

A simple "vent" device, natural ventilation, directs the convection flow in the desired direction and prevents air vapor from being deposited on the surface of the plate. Maintaining the temperature is another matter. This is where you need to insulate the ceiling, and possibly the entire basement room, in order to increase the temperature inside. The insulation method is not new - the same as for walls:

Additional beams are attached to the ceiling, from wall to wall: edged board 20 mm thick and 100 mm wide, impregnated with an antiseptic solution, fixed to the ceiling with an edge using corners along the entire length with a distance of 50-60 cm.
The joints to the ceiling are foamed with polyurethane foam. Between the beams prepared in this way, lay roll insulation, then a vapor barrier is attached with a stapler, and the seams are glued.
Then a cushion strip 10-15 mm thick is nailed along the beams.
Sheets of GKL or GKVL "Knauf" are cut, moisture-resistant plywood can be sewn to the slats.

You can use a stainless steel profile by attaching it to the ceiling on hangers and also lay thermal insulation with subsequent filing of gypsum boards.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling in the basement of a private house

In the basements of private houses, additional premises for various uses are equipped. Insulation of premises for storing agricultural products is the same as for basements of apartment buildings. Another thing is when basements are insulated in order to provide additional space for life activities.

Such premises are usually always heated. They are heat insulated when the basement is located under a terrace, garage or other unheated premises. The method of insulation is the same as for apartments with attic floors, if it is not possible to perform insulation from the outside.

Advice. Proper ventilation of the room helps to avoid the formation of condensation. Try to leave gaps between insulating materials, use membrane-type films for arranging vapor barrier.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house

If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from above, then the scheme is as follows.

From the side of the heated basement, in order to preserve heat, it is recommended insulate the walls, and the ceiling is more insulated for the purpose of soundproofing, therefore, high-density foam is attached to the ceiling with an adhesive solution. Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) boards can also be attached. This material has a dense structure and high thermal and sound insulation properties.

In addition to the above methods, a more expensive method may be suitable - application of a polyurethane foam (PPU) layer to the insulated surface... Without special equipment, high-quality components for the formation of foam, mixing and application technology, it is impossible to make thermal insulation on your own.

So, for the successful thermal insulation of your basement, determine the cause of heat loss, the place of leakage, as well as the formation of condensation in the insulation.

Attention! The first sign that the basement has poor thermal insulation is the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the apartment on the lower floors. This is manifested by the deposition of dampness on carpets lying on the floor. Mold can develop, which can negatively affect your health.

It is urgent to rectify the situation. For basement insulation, please contact specialized construction organizations... The specialist will determine the method of thermal insulation for a particular room. You may need additional waterproofing or the installation of drainage systems. This will be determined by a specialist in a company dealing with complex works on thermal insulation and ventilation of premises. Only a professional approach to this problem will reduce the cost of these works. ( 2 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

The issue of reducing the heat loss of a building is very acute. After all, only losses through the attic floor increase operating costs by 10-15%. So it's not even worth talking about the need for thermal insulation for a long time, the main question is formulated in this way - how and how to effectively insulate the attic floor.

Thermal insulation of a girder attic floor.

Reducing the heat loss of floors is done by filling in some types of heat-insulating material, or laying roll or plate types of insulation between the beams. First, a vapor barrier layer is mounted; when using foil-clad materials, laying is done with foil downward (to the underlying living quarters). If there was already an insulating layer in the attic, then, before installing an additional carpet, the attic must be thoroughly ventilated to remove excess moisture. When insulating the area near the cornice, we lay the material so that ventilation gaps remain. It is recommended to place wind and waterproofing on top of the laid layer of thermal insulation to prevent the ingress of atmospheric precipitation onto the material in case of emergency.

Insulation of slab floors.

These works are carried out in the same way as described above, the only exception concerns vapor barrier. Since the construction of reinforced concrete slabs is characterized by low vapor permeability, the use of additional insulation is not required. We figured out the first part of the question - how and how to insulate the attic floor, let's proceed to the second half.

Types of insulation for attic floors.

The most effective is the use of the following thermal insulation materials:

Loose. The cheapest, but quite effective material. Various production wastes are used as backfill, it can be slag, sawdust. Expanded clay, a material with a low specific gravity and good thermal performance, has proven itself excellently. Sometimes foam granules are used, but in this case there is a high probability of breeding rodents in the attic.
Roll materials. The representative of this family is the well-known glass wool and its varieties. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and is easy to install. True, this material cannot be classified as environmentally friendly, but its use in non-residential attics is quite justified. Moreover, it is economically profitable, and also meets fire requirements.
Plate insulation. The most demanded material is mineral (basalt) wool. It is produced by various manufacturers, differs in size and thermal performance. For insulation of attic

floors, cotton wool of different density and thickness is used. Sometimes, in order to reduce heat loss, expanded polystyrene is also used, in particular extruded. This material is a good insulation, but there are several negative factors. Firstly, these are the already mentioned rodents, and secondly, the increased fire hazard of the material. Although the foam is positioned by manufacturers as a self-extinguishing insulation that does not support combustion, it still has a tendency to ignite. At the same time, substances that are unsafe for humans are released in the combustion process.

Recently, such material as penoizol has become popular. Despite the significant cost, insulation using this technology is very effective. But the performance of such work requires special equipment, and is carried out only by specialized organizations.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer for the attic floor is selected depending on the climatic conditions in the region, and the characteristics of the material itself. At the same time, along the perimeter of the ceiling, at the abutment to the roof, within 1 meter, it is recommended to increase the layer by half of the design values.

Any investment in building insulation is a good allocation of funds, because thanks to energy savings, such work pays off very quickly and begins to make a profit.

How to solve the problem of heat loss, which is inherent in any roofing structure? Especially if this question concerns a building that has been built long ago. There is only one answer, insulation! for this purpose, foam is quite suitable, and it can be used both outside and inside the building.

When choosing the type of floor for a future home, the general concept of the structure is of great importance. It is unlikely that anyone would think of using a metal I-beam or a reinforced concrete beam as a ceiling in a wooden cottage. There are certain rules and norms that impose their own restrictions on the construct and make their own adjustments.

The article touches upon the issue of choosing a heater for the roof of residential and non-residential premises. Also, detailed descriptions are given on the use of thermal insulation materials, depending on climatic conditions and structural features of insulated buildings.

How and how to insulate the attic floor of a residential building

How and how to insulate the attic floor of a residential building The issue of reducing the heat loss of a building is very acute. After all, only losses through the attic floor increase the operating costs for

How to properly insulate an attic floor

Insulation of the attic floor makes it possible to save thermal energy inside the room, thereby preventing the cost of heating a cold attic. It's okay if the attic space is used as a utility room or attic, but what if not? Of course, there is no point in spending money on heating it in this case.

For this reason, it is advisable to cover the attic floor with the use of thermal insulation materials. This can be done both externally and internally. Ideally, insulation should be started even at the stage of building a house or, alternatively, right before finishing the premises. Nevertheless, even during your stay, there is no reason not to worry about the ceiling insulation from the attic side.

Note! The thickness of the insulation layer is stated in SNiP. In addition, there you can find everything necessary calculations heat transfer resistance of various insulating materials, taking into account the average annual temperature, the material used in the construction, and the length of the heating season.

But before proceeding directly to the insulation, you must identify the type of attic floor. In the private construction of residential buildings (regardless of whether wood is used, bricks or blocks), it can be of only two types. But both must be built according to certain rules and have a well-defined structure.

Basic requirements for attic floors

The main quality that any attic floor must have is strength. If it comes on the attic roof, then the entire structure should not bend or deform under the weight of furniture or equipment located in the attic. There is such a thing as a deflection rate. For attic structures, it is 1/200 of the entire span. The maximum load per square meter is 105 kilograms. One more at least important parameter overlapping is fire safety, which is more true for wood structures. So, fire resistance has the following limits:

for concrete or reinforced concrete structures it is 1 hour;
for structures made of wood (in the absence of additional protection) - five minutes;
for overlapping from wood on beams, with backfill and plaster - about 45 minutes;
for a wooden floor with only one plastered surface - 15 minutes.

Features of the overlap device

Often it is girder floors, which is explained by the simplicity and low cost of installation, so we will focus on it. They are often found in wooden buildings, and elements of both wood and metal can serve as beams. According to experts, option number 1 is preferable because:

wood is cheaper than metal;
it has excellent thermal insulation performance;
it is easier to handle.

Insulation of the attic floor, if there are beams, consists in laying an insulating material between them. If the height of the beams is not enough for this, then the bars are additionally packed on top. Before proceeding with installation, a vapor barrier layer should be laid (just not plastic wrap, since the vapors that escape from the room will not be able to penetrate outside). And if the film is still used, then the level of humidity in the house will increase markedly, especially if ventilation system works poorly. For this reason, it is preferable to purchase a modern vapor barrier, which can be installed in such a way that air leaves the room, but does not penetrate the house from the attic. And if such material is with foil, then it must be laid “face down”.

But how to choose the right insulation so that the resulting "sandwich" is as effective as possible? We will tell you about this now.

Types of insulation for the attic

There are a lot of such materials, but we will consider only the most popular of them. Here they are:

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Mineral wool applications

Mineral wool is an effective insulation, the fibers in which are arranged in a special way. Due to this randomness, an oxygen "cushion" is formed between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its properties. But because of the same feature, mineral wool or and absorbs moisture. In order to prevent this, the installation must be carried out properly.

The advantages of this material are undeniable:

density;
ease of installation;
long operational life;
fire safety;
finally, if the cotton wool is installed horizontally, then it does not slip and does not cake (read: cold bridges do not appear).

But there is also a drawback that we talked about - it absorbs moisture.

Installation technology

Mineral wool can be laid in three possible ways:

The first method is the most effective. The laying technology itself is as follows.

Step 1. First, lay the vapor barrier material - this is necessary to remove the steam that rises from the premises. For correct installation it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the markings on the foil made by the manufacturer.

Note! Do not forget to observe the mandatory overlap of 10 centimeters.

If the thermal insulation is done along the beams, then the vapor barrier must bend around each element that protrudes, otherwise the beams will soon rot.

Step 2. Where the film meets walls and other surfaces that protrude, raise it to the height of the insulating material + 5 centimeters, then wrap it over the slabs of material or glue it with tape.

Step 3. After that, proceed with the installation of the insulating material. This procedure is extremely simple, since strips and slabs can be easily cut with a construction knife.

Step 4. When laying, pay attention to the fact that the insulation is not squeezed and there are no gaps. You can see the common mistakes in the image below.

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In the first case, the thickness of the thermal insulation is not enough; in the rest, the similar parameter of the attic floor is incorrectly selected.

Good advice on mineral wool insulation

Foil-coated material will increase the resistance to heat loss. But the material itself should be laid down with foil.
If there are protruding structural elements in the attic, then the insulation should be raised by 40-50 centimeters and fixed.
If a thin insulation material is laid in two layers, it will be more effective than one thick layer.
Do not allow material to protrude from the beams. But if this still happened, lengthen it by means of a rail or beam to the thickness of the material itself.

Step 5. If rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing layer, and the attic will not be used, then waterproofing must be laid.

Step 6. It remains only to make a rough floor. To do this, lay it on a heater - this will be the basis for the final finish.

Styrofoam use

Insulation of the attic floor with foam is in many ways similar to a similar procedure using expanded polystyrene. Moreover, the advantages of these materials are common - here they are:

Installation technology

Installing foam for attic insulation is extremely simple - you can easily cope with the procedure on your own. All work is divided into several stages.

Step 1. Level the surface. In order for the thermal insulation to be of the highest quality, no irregularities should remain on the base. And if you need to eliminate the indentations, then fill everything with a cement screed.

Step 2. Lay the insulation boards - between the beams or end-to-end. What is typical, if there are beams, then the strength of the structure will increase significantly.

Note! All joints (between the bars inclusive) must be carefully sealed. Cut holes as accurately as possible when avoiding obstacles. Finally, it is the homogeneous layer that conserves heat energy best.

To protect the foam in a non-residential attic from damage, you can use plastic sheeting. But if the attic is used often and people move around it, respectively, then the foam must be covered with a rough floor - it can be like a cement and sand screed or an OSB slab.

Using sawdust to insulate the attic

Who does not know, shredded wood is called sawdust. We are now talking about this material, since it also has significant advantages, including:

availability;
naturalness;
insignificant weight;
absence of any harmful or toxic substances.

The disadvantage is the same as that of polystyrene - flammability.

Warming procedure with sawdust

Step 1. First, prepare the sawdust, that is, mix them with water and cement in a ratio of 10-1-1.

Step 2. Fill the attic floor with the mixture formed, then carefully level it. Note that it is possible to insulate an attic with sawdust without a frame only if it (attic) is uninhabited. Otherwise, the sawdust will be compressed while walking, and the screed, accordingly, will collapse.

Step 3. Using timber, build the honeycomb structure. Next, fill each cell with the mixture described above. The main advantage of this technology is that a sub-floor can be laid on top of the timber, and the room itself can be actively used.

Using expanded clay for insulation

A sufficiently high-quality insulation of the attic floor can be done using expanded clay. Who does not know, this material is obtained after firing clay. The main advantages of expanded clay include:

availability;
insignificant thermal conductivity;
light weight;
environmental friendliness;
naturalness.

But there is also a minus, which lies in the difficulty of raising the material to the height of the attic.

Note! Often this material is used when it is required to insulate the floor over the slabs.

Instructions for warming with expanded clay

The whole procedure can be roughly divided into the following stages.

Step 1. First, inspect the slabs for cracks or crevices. If such are found, seal them with a solution and cover with thick paper. Tellingly, even with protruding structural elements, there are no difficulties in filling.

Step 2. Using a timber, build a crate. Subsequently, the subfloor will be laid on top of this lattice.

Step 3. Pour the material onto the slab and level it out with a rake. The thickness should be approximately 25-30 centimeters. It is characteristic that you can walk on expanded clay - there are no restrictions in this case.

Note! Falling asleep expanded clay, try to combine stones of different fractions (sizes). This will prevent voids from forming.

At the end, fill everything with concrete screed or mount a sub-floor.

The main nuances of the procedure

The tree rots, therefore, the steam rising from the house must pass freely. If you install a vapor barrier or use a material that does not "breathe" for this, then soon the tree may collapse.
Insulation with foil should be laid down with it (foil) to protect the wood from moisture.

You can see examples of correct and incorrect installation in the image below.

But a universal scheme - insulation of the attic floor using any of the materials.

As a result, we note that the thermal insulation of the attic floor will be most effective if the attic itself is reliably protected from moisture penetration from the outside. In other words, you also need to properly equip the roof. Good luck with your work!

Insulation of the attic floor - methods and materials for installation

How to insulate an attic floor, what materials are best used for this

Thermal insulation of the attic floor

What insulation to choose for overlap

Obviously, it is advisable to choose a vapor-permeable, biologically stable and non-combustible insulation for wooden floors. Mineral wool meets these requirements.

How much heat insulator is required for the attic

According to the current standards, it is economically feasible to make the heat transfer resistance of the attic enclosure not less than 4.7 m2 ° C / W for the climate of the Moscow region.

Steam regulation issues

It is necessary to ensure normal ventilation of the insulation, which means that the attic space should be sufficiently well ventilated with outside air. The area of the ventilation openings (air) in the attic fence should be at least 1: 500 of the area of the room itself.

If the attic floor is made of wood, then a layer of mineral wool should be fenced off from the room with a continuous layer of a vapor barrier, which is better to use modern durable vapor barrier membranes.

What not to do

It is not advisable to use metallized membranes in the attic, as they disrupt (screen) the normal passage electromagnetic waves, which, according to the conclusion of scientists, affects the health of all living things. Usually, membranes based on polypropylene, polyethylene are used.

Insulation technical issues

A ventilation gap of at least 30 mm should be left between the insulation and the flooring, open around the perimeter of the building and (or) through the cracks left in the flooring.

Overlapping on wooden logs

The most common type of attic floor is on wooden joists. The pitch of the lag is 0.5 - 1.1 meters, while their height is 100 - 200 mm, usually a height of at least 1/20 of the span.

The logs themselves are inserted into the wall to a depth of 12 - 18 cm, while their direct contact with brick (concrete) is not allowed.

What is being done

After the ceiling filing is done, they begin to insulate the attic floor and erect the flooring. Since the height of the overlap lag is usually not enough to accommodate the entire layer of insulation with a ventilation gap, a counter-lattice is built on the beams, on top of which the flooring is laid, most often from fiberboard plates.

1. A counter-lattice is built to the design height with a distance between the beams of 600 mm (so that the insulation plates are placed with a spacer, slots are not allowed).

Reinforced concrete attic floor

A common technology for insulating reinforced concrete attic floors is a screed over a layer of rigid insulation. The disadvantage is the significant weight of the screed, which is not always acceptable.

Insulation of the attic: the main ways of how to insulate the attic, types of insulation

Modern Vacation home, no matter whether it is a garden house intended for seasonal living, or a luxury cottage used as a permanent home, it is impossible to imagine without a ventilated attic.

In this case, one very significant problem arises - the loss of heat through its ceiling, and then through the roof.

The main ways to insulate the attic

As already mentioned, when installing a ventilated attic in a country house, its roof remains "cold" (in contrast to the attic), and only the ceilings located under it, separating the living quarters below it, are insulated.

There are many ways to insulate such floors, depending on their type (reinforced concrete floors or floors on beams). Let's consider each of them in detail.

Insulation of the reinforced concrete floor of the attic

It is worth noting that a distinction is made between prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs and monolithic, one-piece reinforced concrete floor... However, what unites them is that they have a very flat surface that can withstand high loads. Based on this, you should choose a specific type of insulation for the attic. Let's start with the simplest.

1. Installation of wooden beams (can be metal) or a lag with a heater placed between them. In this case, you can use a variety of types of insulation material: various backfills, mats or rolls of ecowool, mineral wool and even the most common foam. Consider in more detail the types of insulation for the attic below.

2. Warming without using a lag using backfill. Expanded clay or cocktail slag can be used as backfill (in this case, it will need to be isolated from the living space). Or any other type of backfill.

Insulation of the attic with backfill is carried out as follows: a layer of the selected material with a thickness of twenty to thirty centimeters is poured, after which it is poured with cement mortar and a screed is made. If the attic space will not be used in the future, the screed can be omitted. For additional protection and vapor barrier, it is also recommended to fix roofing material on the slabs.

Of the disadvantages of this method, it is worth noting the laboriousness of the work and the need for a large amount of time.

3. Warming with rigid insulation (no lag). Another popular and effective method insulation of a continuous floor made of reinforced concrete.

In this case, either foam concrete or foam glass is most often used as a heat insulator. Both options have advantages and disadvantages.

Foam glass is a more modern, effective and affordable material, however, it is also very expensive. For this reason, heavier and coarser foam concrete is still often used. It will take a little longer to tinker with it, in addition, you will need a layer at least forty centimeters thick. But financial expenses will turn out to be much less painful.

But in both cases, you do not have to resort to "wet" work, since the screed is not required here.

Insulation of the attic along the beams

In this case, the material for insulation is placed between wood or metal beams... After the installation is completed, the ceiling is sheathed with any molded material, for example, clapboard. Drywall is also often used.

But there are times when the floor beams are made of high-quality and reliable material, have a proper look, and they are left open. And the finishing material of the floor (tongue, plywood, MDF, and so on) is laid directly on the beams. Most often, this option is used in houses made of circular beams or logs.

As for the type of insulation material, in this case the choice is quite wide. Therefore, let's move on directly to considering heaters for the attic and their features.

Types of insulation for the attic

1. Backfill. Most often, either expanded clay or slag (cocktail) is used as a backfill. Perlite is also used, but this is a more expensive option. The main disadvantage of such insulation is its high weight, therefore it requires a very reliable and powerful base and filing.

2. Basalt wool. It comes in the form of rolls or elastic plates. For reliable insulation, one layer of this material twenty centimeters thick is sufficient. Inexpensive, affordable and relatively more cost effective material, which, however, requires vapor barrier (moisture protection).

3. Glass wool - a cheaper alternative to basalt wool. Most often it is supplied in the form of slabs. In terms of properties, it is almost completely similar to basalt wool, except that it is slightly less fire resistant.

4. Styrofoam. The cheapest and most affordable material that does not require wind protection. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the high fragility and insufficient elasticity of the material.

5. Ecowool. It is the most modern, environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material. Made from cellulose. Practically non-flammable due to special impregnations, hypoallergenic, supplied in bulk or in the form of slabs. Minus - the highest cost of all the materials presented.

In the end, I would like to note that the most reliable and effective thermal insulation of the attic will be only if the owner also takes all the necessary measures for its vapor barrier and wind insulation. Otherwise, moisture and wind will very quickly render even the most expensive material unusable.

Insulation of the attic: the main ways of how to insulate the attic, types of insulation

Insulation of the attic: the main ways of how to insulate the attic, types of insulation Modern country house, it does not matter if it is a garden house intended for seasonal living, or

Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic

Since the roof of a cold attic only serves as a protection against rain, snow and, in part, wind, special attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the floor. Warming of the attic floor is carried out using various heat-insulating materials with the obligatory organization of wind protection, especially from the outside eaves roofs.

As a rule, the insulation is laid directly on the floor of a cold attic. Naturally, provided that the attic will not be used. This will save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on the organization of a full-fledged floor covering.

What should be the thickness of the attic floor insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on which structure of the attic floor on wooden beams or reinforced concrete is chosen. On the packaging of any insulation, the coefficient of specific thermal conductivity λ is indicated, and it has two values: λА - for a dry environment, and λБ - for a wet one. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material. It is on the basis of this value that the calculation of the insulation of the attic floor is made.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is:

where R is the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, which, according to the standards, is 4.15 m² · ° С / W.

Insulation of the attic floor using wooden beams

Most small houses and summer cottages with a cold roof, wooden floors are used, therefore, it is their thermal insulation that we will consider first.

The device of the attic floor on wooden beams, as a rule, is as follows:

Hemming of the lower floor;
Vapor barrier;
Floor beams;
Insulation;
Waterproofing;
Finishing finish.

Ceiling arrangement in a private house with a cold attic begins with the installation of load-bearing beams. Since their maximum length is usually 4 meters, then for rooms of greater width it is necessary either to construct supports or to use metal purlins.

After the beams are laid, a vapor barrier is made for the ceiling of the cold attic. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to them from below, which protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the lower room. When you insulate a wooden attic floor, it is advisable to use special reinforced multilayer materials made of polyethylene or polypropylene as a film, since it is stronger and much easier to attach.

It is best when the vapor barrier layer is solid. However, the construction of a wooden attic floor does not always allow this. If for some reason the vapor barrier cannot be placed under the beams, the film is laid between them with an overlap on them and fixed with a special tape to ensure tightness.

The device of a wooden attic floor involves the risk of damage load-bearing structures due to decay. Therefore, before laying the cold attic pie, all wooden beams and crate should be soaked in special solutions that prevent rotting and mold formation.

Next, the attic floor is insulated along the beams, for which the heat-insulating material is placed between them. If you are using loose insulation, then it should be carefully leveled and made sure that it fills all the voids.

Minimum thickness the thermal insulation for warming the attic wooden floor, calculated by you using the formula above, may be greater than the width of the load-bearing beams. In this case, a crate of bars of the size you need is attached across them. Then another layer of insulation is laid between them with the obligatory overlap of the joints of the previous layer.

It is recommended to close the attic floor beams with a layer of thermal insulation even if their width is sufficient to accommodate the insulation of the design thickness. The fact is that through them, so-called cold bridges are formed, in connection with which heat loss in the house increases.

An attic floor with wooden beams is usually made with a floor of conventional flooring of treated boards laid across the battens or support beams. However, thick plywood, chipboard, MDF and other similar materials can also be used as a topcoat.

If you want to use a leveling screed as a finishing finish, then waterproofing the cold attic on top of a layer of insulation is a must.

Insulation of the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab

If you need to insulate the attic floor on slabs of reinforced concrete, then this can be done in two ways: using the crate and without it.

The first method is universal, but is most often used for light types of insulation. The device of the attic floor of a cold attic in this case will look like this:

Attic floor vapor barrier in progress cold attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation from the sides. Since the vapor barrier just needs to be laid on the floor, it is not necessary to use specialized materials for these purposes - ordinary cheap plastic wrap will do.
Top on the film, narrow side a wooden block is placed half width required thickness, which should have insulation for a cold attic. The distance between the bars is usually taken equal to the width of the roll or plate of the selected brand of insulation.
Between the boards the insulation for the attic floor is laid... If it is necessary to use several layers of heat-insulating material in thickness, it is laid with overlapping joints of the previous layer.
Across the already laid bars are attached exactly the same, at the same distance from each other. Between them is laid the second layer of thermal insulation of the attic floor.
Above the vapor-permeable waterproofing of the cold attic is laid, which is fixed either with special adhesive tape or with a thin bar nailed along the lathing. This step can be omitted if it has already been done before. high-quality waterproofing cold roof from corrugated board.
Across the bars nailed floorboards or walkways are laid for movement.

Since it is very important to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof to save on heating the house, I recommend using the given transverse scheme for laying thermal insulation. Such a device for the attic floor minimizes the possibility of a cold bridge forming through the wooden blocks, since most of them will be insulated with insulation.

The second way to insulate a cold attic according to reinforced concrete slabs without the use of lathing is suitable in cases where moisture-resistant solid types of insulation are used for thermal insulation, capable of withstanding significant loads without loss of properties.

In this case, the vapor barrier of the attic floor is also laid first. Next, the attic floor slabs are insulated with a layer of thermal insulation of a calculated thickness.

A leveling screed is poured over it. The finishing floor is already laid on the screed. If the insulation of the concrete attic floor is carried out with aerated concrete and materials similar in density and properties, then you can do without waterproofing and vapor barrier, as well as a screed.

Insulation for the attic floor: which one to choose?

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to choose a heat-insulating material that is right for your case. Unfortunately, there is no universal option, the better to insulate the attic floor. This choice depends on many factors, the most significant of which are:

Heat insulating properties of the material;
Fire safety;
Price;
Ease of installation;
Environmental friendliness;
Hygroscopicity;
Strength;
Resistant to decay, temperature, acid and alkali.

You must decide which of these factors are most important to you, and which can be neglected.

Insulation of the ceiling of the cold attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for insulating floors. Best performance in order to insulate the attic floor of the house, it has a variety based on basalt fibers, which is called stone (basalt) wool.

Insulation based on basalt fibers belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 ° C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties. However, it easily absorbs moisture, therefore, when using it, the requirements for hydro and vapor barrier are particularly high.

It is better to insulate the attic floor with mineral wool using rolls, since the joints between the slabs, albeit not very much, reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. It must be laid close to beams or guides, but avoiding jamming.

The installation of mineral wool is very simple, so this thermal insulation material is most often chosen when they want to insulate the attic floor with their own hands without the involvement of specialists. Remember to use personal protective equipment while working: tight rubber gloves, glasses and clothing that covers the whole body. For people prone to allergies, this kit must be supplemented with a respirator.

Fire safety;
Environmental friendliness;
The convenience of use;
Relatively low price.

Sealing tendency, good crease;
Hygroscopicity.

Insulation of the attic floor with foam

Polyfoam is a very inexpensive material, which, in fact, is expanded polystyrene foam and retains heat due to these "bubbles" with air. It is cheap, has good thermal insulation properties, is moisture resistant and can withstand fairly high compression loads.

However, all its advantages are more than covered by one drawback - this material is fire hazardous. Already at a temperature of 80 ° C; foam plastic melts with the release of a huge amount of harmful substances, and at temperatures from 210 ° C; fire occurs. Therefore, insulating the attic floor over wooden beams with foam is not a good idea. However, it can be used between non-combustible materials, for example, when laying as insulation on a concrete slab with screed filling.

High thermal insulation properties;
Low price;
Moisture resistant;
Resistant to decay;

Fragility;
Highly flammable;
Deforms already at a temperature of 60 ° C;
It is an excellent shelter for mice.

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam is made from the same material as foam, but using a fundamentally different technology. On the territory of the CIS, the most common heaters of this type from the Penoplex company. The performance properties of extruded polystyrene foam are significantly better than that of expanded polystyrene, in particular with regard to the ignition temperature of the material.

However, insulation of a wooden attic floor with foam is not recommended. Despite the fact that open combustion of this heat-insulating material occurs at a sufficiently high temperature, it is still fire hazardous. Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam supports combustion, and secondly, it emits very corrosive and toxic substances when heated even to very low temperatures, namely, they are the cause of death in a fire in most cases. Therefore, penoplex is far from the best option than insulating the attic floor of a house, even if it is reinforced concrete.

High thermal insulation properties;
Moisture resistant;
Resistant to decay;
High density;
Withstands quite heavy loads;
Low weight.

When heated above 80 ° C; begins to release toxic substances;
Fire hazard;
Deforms when heated.

Insulation of the attic floor of the house using polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam boards are one of the best insulation materials available. This material has excellent thermal insulation properties, it is durable, resistant to chemical and bacteriological influences, non-hygroscopic and fireproof.

Polyurethane foam is the best way to insulate an attic floor in a private house. If you can afford it. It is the high cost that is its main and, probably, the only drawback. Because of it, it may even be difficult to buy this material in small cities.

The best thermal insulation properties among the materials considered;
Fireproof;
Not affected by moisture and chemicals;
Does not rot;
Eco-friendly;
Convenient to use.

Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with sawdust

Earlier, in the absence of other materials, insulation cold roof sawdust was ubiquitous. Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who like its environmental friendliness. At the same time, despite popular belief, the design of the attic floor using such a heater is by no means cheap. Sawdust is not stacked "dry", but in a special solution, the production of which requires money and a lot of time.

The composition of the sawdust solution for insulating a cold attic is as follows:

10 buckets of sawdust(wood chips are needed, which are formed when sawing and processing wood, furniture sawdust - too small for these purposes);
1 bucket of hydrated lime(fluffs);
1 bucket of cement;
5-10 buckets of water with antiseptic, for example, with boric acid, soap or copper sulfate (pour in gradually with a watering can, the total amount depends on the size of the sawdust).

The resulting mixture is placed on the base between the beams and tamped. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic floor should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, since the thermal insulation properties of the sawdust solution can be very different. On top of such insulation to cover the attic, walkways are laid for movement, which can be used as sheets of chipboard or dense plywood.

Comparative low cost;
Environmental friendliness;
Quite good thermal insulation properties.

Labor-intensive self-production;
The thickness of the attic floor is large;
Complex installation;
Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.

Insulation of the attic floor with expanded clay

Another relatively cheap material that can be used to insulate the attic floor in a private house is expanded clay. It is made by firing clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is refractory, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.

With the help of expanded clay, you can insulate both reinforced concrete and wooden attic floors. However, in the latter case, you need to carefully consider the calculation of the bearing capacity of the beams, since thermal insulation from expanded clay weighs much more than modern heaters... Concrete attic floor slabs can easily withstand very heavy loads, so expanded clay can be used for them without additional calculations.

If the wooden attic floor of the house is insulated, then first a crate is made over the beams and only after that the heat insulator is filled up. Expanded clay is poured in a layer of 250-300 mm and carefully leveled. Then it is covered with a plank floor.

If you are insulating the attic floors made of concrete, then the floor is waterproofed with bulk or coating materials, then expanded clay is mixed with cement and poured with a layer of 350-400 mm.

Environmentally friendly material;
Good thermal insulation properties;
Fireproof;
Resistant to acids and alkalis;
Not subject to decay;
Durable;
Low cost.

Insulation of the attic floor made of wood or reinforced concrete slabs

Insulation of the attic floor: tips, diagrams, materials. Detailed step-by-step instructions on how to insulate an attic floor both on wooden beams and on a reinforced concrete slab September 6, 2016
Specialization: Master in Construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings... Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Ceiling insulation is a fairly simple process, but thanks to it, heat loss through this part of the structure can be significantly reduced. The advantage of this type of work can be considered that almost all insulation options can be carried out on their own without the use of special equipment. I'll tell you about the right technology each of the options, and you carefully read all the solutions and choose the best one for your home.

Warming methods

Of all the options that I will tell you about, only one cannot be laid with high quality without special equipment, the rest are easily implemented by hand. Different solutions require different costs, this factor should also not be overlooked, because in some cases the expenses may be minimal, and in some you will have to pay a large sum.

An important note: those methods that are expensive are much more efficient than budgetary ones, this is a well-known truth, and you must remember it.

Basically, all options involve external insulation, that is, work in the attic. It is much more convenient from the point of view of a simple process, in addition, you can work without littering inside. Of course, in some situations it will be necessary to carry out work from the inside, I will also touch on them in the relevant sections.

Option number 1 - foam or extruded polystyrene foam

This is a fairly popular solution, the foam is cheaper, and the extruded options are much stronger. But in the attic, strength does not really matter, so there is no point in spending extra funds. Let's figure out what is needed for work:

Styrofoam	For work, it is best to use sheets with a thickness of 100 mm, the density can be the lowest - 15 kg per cubic meter. You can lay the material in two layers, then the joints between the sheets should not coincide, the top row is placed with an offset, so greater reliability is ensured. The amount is calculated based on the area to be covered, everything is quite simple here, remember that one cubic meter is enough for 10 square meters with a layer of 10 cm
Polyurethane foam	With its help, all the cracks at the joints and abutments will be closed. It is impossible to fit the foam perfectly precisely, so you need to close up all the voids, and the polyurethane foam is perfect for these purposes, the ideal option is to buy a professional pistol, since it is much more convenient to apply the composition with its help, and this can be done even in narrow crevices, which very important in our case
Vapor barrier membrane or glassine	Personally, I believe that these materials can be dispensed with, since the wood does not need additional insulation. But if you still want to cover the surface, then use membrane options, but not in any case a film, since condensation will form under it and decay processes may begin in the wood. If the attic is residential, then the insulation can be laid on the top, it is attached directly to the beams

As for the technology, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

First of all, the surface is freed of all objects and cleared of debris, if any.... The space between the beams must be dry and clean so that nothing interferes with the most tight fit of the thermal insulation material;
Further, sheets of foam are prepared, if you need to cut them, then keep in mind that the width of the element should be 10 mm more than the distance between the frame, this will ensure a dense arrangement of the material in the structure. For work, I advise you to purchase a special hacksaw, with its help you will quickly and efficiently cut the material;

If you are going to install a vapor barrier, then do it with overlaps on vertical surfaces.... The easiest way to fix the material is with construction stapler, this is the most quick way work performance;
Sheets are stacked as tightly as possible in the frame, try to measure accurately required sizes and cut them off exactly... If the insulation is carried out in two layers, then the upper one is placed with an offset of half a sheet relative to the lower one, this makes it possible to exclude through slots through which heat will be lost. Remember that the material is fragile and will break with great effort;

After laying the material, the stage of sealing all cracks and joints begins, the work is simple: with the help of polyurethane foam, all visible voids are filled. After the composition has dried, the excess can be cut off if they protrude beyond the surface and create interference.

Further work depends on how the attic will be used, you can lay the floor on it, or you can leave it as it is - the material does not need additional protection and will perform its functions perfectly.

In this section, you need to figure out how to insulate the ceiling on the balcony with your own hands, here work is done exclusively from the inside, and for it it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam due to its strength and durability.

The loggia is insulated as follows:

The surface is cleaned of dirt, if there are irregularities on it, then they should be eliminated;
Then the extruded material is taken, if necessary, cut to the size of the ceiling and fixed on it with dowels for thermal insulation. To do this, holes are drilled in a concrete slab with a perforator, after which fasteners are inserted and the elements are securely fixed on the surface;

Then all cracks and joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, the excess of which is cut off after hardening;
Further work depends on the finishing method, if you plaster the surface, then a reinforcing mesh is attached to it and a special adhesive composition... If you are going to nail lining or other finishing material, then it makes sense to fix penofol outside - this is a thin insulation with a reflective layer that allows you to keep even more heat on your balcony.

The insulation of the ceiling on the balcony can also be done using polystyrene foam, in this case I advise using the version with a density of 25 kg per cubic meter, it is much stronger and harder.

Option number 2 - granular polystyrene

For some reason, ceiling insulation is very rarely done using this option, but I really like it due to the simplicity and quality of the material, the granules do not burn, which ensures proper fire safety, and the ease of use is at all high, judge for yourself:

First of all, you need to prepare the surface - due to the small size of the insulation, it is important to close up all the cracks so that granules do not penetrate into them. The draft filing must be fairly dense, so it must be done carefully;
Further, the surface is covered with either a vapor barrier membrane or glassine (paper impregnated with bitumen), these materials perform two functions at once: they protect the structure from moisture and prevent the insulation from waking up. Fastening is done with a stapler, the insulating material should go on vertical surfaces by at least 10 centimeters;
Insulation work is very simple: you pour granular polystyrene onto the surface and distribute it in an even layer, you do not need to ram it. The recommended layer is 15-20 cm, do not worry about the load on the structure, the material is very light;
Last of all, you need to close the surface with a vapor-permeable membrane or any material that allows air to pass through, this is necessary so that the polystyrene does not swell, because it is very light and even a small breeze can spread the granules.

I want to note that the price of a cubic meter of granular polystyrene is about 5500 rubles, if the layer is 20 cm, then this will be enough for 5 square meters of area.

Option number 3 - penoizol

This is a new generation material, which is a composition that is applied in liquid form and, after hardening, forms a monolithic structure with good thermal insulation properties without cracks and voids. The plus of this solution is the efficiency and service life of about 30 years, minus - for its application, the presence of special equipment is required and you cannot do without the involvement of specialists.

As for how to implement this option, then everything is simple in view of the fact that the work will be carried out mainly by involved specialists. You are required to prepare the surface:

To clear the space from dust and debris, it is important to remove all objects that will interfere during work and free all surfaces that will be insulated;
After that, you need to lay a vapor barrier membrane, it will protect the tree from moisture released when applying foam insulation and create a barrier that will release vapor to the outside, but exclude moisture from entering;
Further, specialists enter the work. They apply the material in the required layer over the entire area, the work takes place quite quickly, and in a few hours the process will be completely completed. It will take some time for the surface to dry, after which the material will acquire all its properties.

There is no need to put any insulating materials on top of the material, which is also important, if in some places the material has risen above the required level, then you can cut it off with an ordinary construction knife.

Let's figure out the cost, a cubic meter of penoizol will cost you an average of 1500-1800 rubles, this is a fairly reasonable price, given that you will have a minimum of worries, and the result you will get is excellent.

Option number 4 - mineral wool

I will not be mistaken if I say that this is the most popular material for thermal insulation of ceiling structures. Ceiling insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

As in all other options, work begins with cleaning the surface and freeing the attic from unnecessary items that interfere with the work;
Then you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing material, the choice of options is very large, you need to purchase a product from a well-known manufacturer with a good reputation among buyers and specialists. The waterproofing is attached with a stapler, for reliability, overlaps of 10-15 cm are made, they can be additionally strengthened by gluing with ordinary tape;

Then, mineral wool is placed in the space between the girders, both rolled and slab versions can be used. In the first case, the material is cut into pieces of the required width and fits tightly on the surface, in the second, the elements are placed as tightly as possible on the surface, it is important to exclude gaps at the joints and abutment of materials;

The advantage of rigid slabs is that they do not need solid lathing, the main thing is to waterproof the surface, after which you can lay the elements. The minimum thickness of the material is 100 mm, but in areas with severe winters, the layer can be much larger.

Remember that when working with mineral wool, be sure to use protective equipment - gloves and a respirator. In the future, the material will not pose a danger, but when it is laid and cut into the air, small particles may enter, which can irritate the mucous membranes, and the skin of the hands will itch.

This material is ideal for insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, in this case, the work is done in the following sequence:

First of all, the surface is covered with a windproof membrane, which will also protect from moisture from the outside and ensure the evaporation of excess moisture from the inside. Fastening is standard - using a stapler, all joints must be reliable, it is better to additionally glue them with special tape;
Further, the space between the rafters is filled with mineral wool, the layer should be as large as possible, the best option is 20 cm. It is important to lay the material as tightly as possible, so the width of the elements should be 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the frame;

In order for the sheets to hold, they need to be fixed., there are two main ways. The first is to stuff the slats over the heat-insulating layer, and the second involves the use of twine, which is stretched on the surface and holds the mineral wool, an example is shown in the photo below.

A vapor barrier material is attached on top of the insulation, after which you can carry out exterior decoration, it can be anything: from lining to drywall or plywood.

Option number 5 - sawdust

If you do not know how to insulate the ceiling on a budget and with high quality in the country, then this section will tell you one of the simplest and most effective solutions. To complete the work, you will need the following materials:

Dry sawdust, the material can be purchased at the nearest sawmill for a penny;
Lime, it is added to protect sawdust from mold and pests, it must be added in a ratio of 1:10. Finely ground fluff lime is used;
To strengthen the composition, I advise adding cement, one part of it should be 10 parts of sawdust;
Copper sulfate - added as an additional antiseptic, you need 2-3 tablespoons per bucket of water.

The workflow looks like this:

In a container of a suitable size, 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of lime and 1 part of cement are mixed, it is important to achieve uniformity of the composition;
Further, water is added to the resulting mass, in which 3 tablespoons of copper sulfate are diluted per 10 liters. It must be added carefully, the mass must be moist, but not soggy and wet;

The surface of the ceiling is closed with a layer of glassine, it is laid with an overlap on vertical surfaces, make a margin of 10-15 cm at the joints. This material serves as a waterproofing agent and does not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood. Along the perimeter, it must be fixed either with small slats or with a construction stapler, the second option is much easier and faster
Ceiling insulation occurs by uniform distribution of the finished mass on the surface, its layer should be 10 cm or more. The sawdust does not need to be rammed, just spread it out on a plane and carefully level it;

It takes about two weeks to dry the composition, during this period it is desirable to ensure good ventilation attic space. It is not recommended to walk on the material in the future, therefore, if the attic is to be used for some purpose, then the insulation should be covered with a flooring from a board or.

Option number 6 - clay

More precisely, it will not be exactly clay, but a mixture of clay and sawdust, such a mass has good thermal insulation characteristics and is completely environmentally friendly, which is also an important advantage these days. What you need to work:

Clay that you can dig up on your own in the place of the nearest development;
Sawdust, it is important to find a dry version without traces of mold;
Cement - it needs a tenth to the volume of the solution to increase its strength later.

The mass for insulation is prepared as follows:

Several buckets of clay are poured into the concrete mixer, after which water is added there, its amount should be such that, after stirring, a liquid mass is obtained. To make the process go faster, the clay must be added in the form of small pieces;
Next, sawdust is added until the mass becomes relatively dense, the moisture content of the composition should be low so that water does not flow from it on the structure during installation, this is very important. At the end of mixing, cement is added, which also dries the mass and, after it hardens, gives additional strength;

Instead of sawdust, you can use straw, then you get adobe, the thermal insulation properties of which have been well known to people for many centuries. In this case, water is added to the clay until a wet mass is obtained, after which wet straw is added there, mixing is done with hands or even feet if the volumes are large.

The surface between the beams must be closed with a waterproofing vapor-permeable material, this is necessary so that moisture from the mass does not penetrate into the material and does not cause the formation of mold in it;
The composition is laid out on the surface in a layer of about 10 cm, the surface is leveled manually or using a flat strip. You can also use the rule, with its help work will pass much faster, and the result will be much better;

After laying, the mixture will dry out for about a month, during this period it is imperative to ensure high-quality ventilation of the attic. If during the drying process on the surface appear small cracks, then they can be carefully wiped.

Option number 7 - expanded clay

This lightweight refractory material has good thermal insulation properties and low weight, which is important when insulating ceiling structures. I want to note right away that for effective thermal insulation, the layer of material should be about 20 cm, keep this in mind and use beams of the appropriate height when building.

Insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay is carried out using a fairly simple technology:

The surface is freed from all unnecessary, after which a vapor-permeable membrane is laid on it. The easiest way is to lay the material solid so that it covers both the surface and the beams, it is attached with a stapler, it is quick, convenient and very reliable;
Expanded clay is filled up over the entire area and evenly distributed over the surface, the process is very simple and takes little time. The main thing is that someone brings the bags, and someone scatters them and level them.

A cubic meter of expanded clay costs about one and a half thousand rubles, for your information, so that you can calculate the approximate costs when using this option.

Option number 8 - ecowool

It is relative new insulation, which consists of cellulose with the addition of antiseptics and fire retardants, this ensures the safety of the material and its non-flammability. The capillary structure allows moisture from the surface to evaporate, and the presence of special additives prevents the occurrence of mold, therefore, when asked what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, many experts answer that ecowool is the best solution today.

But I want to immediately warn you against independent work - the composition should be applied by specialists using special equipment, just the manually poured mass retains heat much worse, such savings will cost you more.

We will figure out how to properly insulate the ceiling with this material, the instructions for carrying out the work are very simple:

No special preparation is required for the material, since cellulose interacts well with wood... You need to clean the surface of debris and unnecessary items. There should be nothing in the attic, since during operation, particles fly in all directions and hit all objects around;
Ceiling insulation can be done in two ways - dry and wet. In the first case, the composition is applied in a dry form under pressure to the surface, the work continues until a layer of the required thickness is formed on the surface. The second option involves the supply of a wet mass, which, after drying, reliably adheres to the surface, its main advantages are strong attachment to the surface and high sound insulation characteristics;

Of course, there are other technologies that can be used to insulate the ceiling, I touched on only those that are most common today and have proven themselves well among developers. From this list, you can choose the best option for any structure, carefully weigh all the criteria in order to find the optimal solution.

Output

Ceiling insulation is a responsible process, because up to 25% of the heat from the house can be lost through this part of the structure. It is important to carry out the work with high quality and sound quality, and the video in this article will help you deal with some important nuances even better. If you do not understand certain points or want additional information, then write in the comments under the review.

September 6, 2016

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Large heat loss of the room and cold air blowing from the ceiling is a consequence of improper or poor-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through the ceiling can reach 20%, as the heated air rises, and if there is no obstacle in its path that can keep it inside the room, it will be “blown out”, just like your budget. Ceiling insulation measures must be performed even at the stage of building a house. But if for some reason this did not happen, or the old thermal insulation fell into disrepair, you will have to do it all over again. What are the ways to insulate the ceiling, how best to implement them in this or that case, what materials to use - these are the main questions that the owners have. At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly so that the insulation does not damp, condensation does not accumulate on the surface, mold or mildew does not appear. And for this it is necessary to understand the very essence of the work performed and the processes taking place in the insulation.

Why and how to insulate the ceiling

What is meant by ceiling insulation? If it blows from above, from the side of the ceiling, we say “we need to insulate the ceiling”, but what actions are meant by this? In fact, there are several technologies, and which one is suitable in each specific case depends on the starting conditions.

In a private house, the ceiling is always insulated from the side of the upper room.: whether it be an attic, next floor or attic. Laying heat-insulating material on top of the floor or in the voids of the floor ensures the retention of heat inside the room. At the same time, the height of the room to be insulated does not decrease, additional finishing of the ceiling is not required, and there is also no need to install thermal insulation directly over the head, because it is not so easy to fix it, and particles will penetrate into the living room. But the most important thing is that the processes taking place in the floor and in the heat-insulating material ensure the warmth and dryness of the room and materials, condensation does not form and the insulation does not get wet.

What is the principle of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. All modern thermal insulation materials are essentially air, enclosed in one way or another in a form. But how can you use air for insulation so as not to pay for it? Our ancestors acted very wisely when they built houses with a gable roof and an exceptionally cold attic, in which there were two windows in the gables. Our climate allows us to play this situation to our advantage. Gable roof well retains snow, which is also a heater. The snow-covered roof retains heat so well that even if it is -25 ° C outside, the temperature inside the attic is about 0 ° C. The air trapped in the attic is an ideal insulator, the characteristics of which can be changed depending on the season or the weather by opening and closing the windows in the gables and ventilating the room. The floor of the attic was always insulated with bulk natural materials, in combination with air, this made it possible to maintain the temperature inside the heated room +20 - +25 ° С. The advantage of floor insulation in the attic is also the fact that the material does not damp, it can be dried by airing the room.

Extremely important! In order for the attic to function as a heat insulator, the roof slope must not be insulated from the inside. This will lead to the fact that the snow on the roof will melt, and icicles will form on the overhangs. In addition, the structure of the non-insulated roof is always open for inspection and repair.

Important! An attic insulated on all sides with heating is no longer an attic. This is an attic, more suitable for the climate of the warm countries of Western Europe. The design and operation of the attic has its own rules.

In the apartment multi-storey building things are a little different. It is not possible to insulate the ceiling or floor of the upper floor. And the problem of a ventilated ceiling most often arises among residents last floor... What to do? The only option is to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room, although this is not recommended, there is no other choice.

When insulating the ceiling, it is important to remember this rule: each subsequent layer in the direction from the room must have a greater vapor permeability.

Below we will consider separately the methods of insulating the attic from the outside and from the inside.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (from the side of the upper room)

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the upper room implies the laying of heat-insulating material on top of the ceiling or in its voids, if any. As mentioned above, this is done in private houses and cottages. The type of material for insulation and the technology of its installation itself depend on which floor is wood or concrete. For overlapping on beams, which is a wooden floor on logs, lightweight filling materials or materials of a roll type are suitable. But for the insulation of a concrete slab - dense mats or slabs, as well as heavy backfill materials.

One of the most ancient and time-tested ways to insulate the ceiling is to insulate the attic with sawdust. In some regions, you can buy sawdust for a song or get it for free if there is woodworking nearby. Quite often, the enterprise themselves do not know what to do with the sawdust, so stop by and take it at least every year. It is better to fill up sawdust on top of wooden floors.

The only drawback of this method is that the sawdust burns. Therefore, several different ways insulation with sawdust.

Method 1... Smear all the cracks in the wooden floor of the attic with clay, a little liquid. Sprinkle with sand on top. If suddenly the clay cracks somewhere, sand will immediately be poured into the gap, and the integrity will be preserved. To protect the sawdust from mice, add a layer of slaked lime interspersed with carbide. Next comes the main layer - sawdust. For different regions, the thickness of this layer may be different, but the minimum is 150 - 200 mm, 250 - 300 mm is considered optimal. Since sawdust is a combustible material, it is sprinkled on top with a thin layer of waste slag, especially around hot communications - a chimney, for example. Nothing is laid on top. You can only unfold the boards for the convenience of walking in the attic.

Method 2... The floor surface must be protected from moisture. This can be done in two ways: the first is to lay a waterproofing film on the wooden floor that can pass steam from the side of the room, the second is to smear the entire floor with clay, as in the first method. Then you need to mix the sawdust with cement. To do this, take 10 parts of sawdust, approximately 1 - 2 parts of cement and 1.5 parts of water. First, sawdust is mixed with cement, then water is added. The sawdust must be slightly wet for the cement to adhere. The resulting mixture can be poured onto the floor of the attic from above, or it can be poured between the floor beams on the subfloor. A 200 mm layer is sufficient. It is necessary to start performing all these works in the spring, so that the sawdust and cement have time to dry well over the summer (they dry for a long time).

Important! It is easy to check whether the sawdust is dry or not: just walk on it. Dried sawdust will not crunch, but will crunch slightly.

Method 3... Similar to the second method. Only clay is used instead of cement.

Method 4... Similar to the first method. You can not sprinkle slag on top. Sawdust can be spread on top with clay, only not very liquid, so that it does not spill deep inside.

Considering that expanded clay is a rather heavy material, it is not recommended to insulate wooden floors with it. The risk is too great that the wood flooring will collapse. The ceiling is insulated with expanded clay with concrete ceilings.

First of all, the surface of the concrete floor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It should be laid with an overlap, the joints should be glued with tape. An overlap is made on the walls, about 40 - 50 cm. Wooden rafters and a chimney must also be pasted over with a vapor barrier film.

Next, crumpled clay is placed on the film. And already on top - expanded clay. For better thermal insulation, a mixture of coarse and fine expanded clay is used. Then the small one will fill the voids, and the backfill will turn out to be more uniform. For a cold climate, a layer of expanded clay should be 50 cm. Recommended in some sources 15 - 20 cm will not save the situation. It is due to the fact that for high-quality thermal insulation expanded clay must be covered with such a large layer, it is rarely used.

On top of the expanded clay, a light cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is arranged. The mortar must be thick enough not to spill deep into the backfill. Thus, the attic will have a sufficiently strong floor, and it can be used for storing something or as a boiler room. A big plus is also the complete fire safety and environmental friendliness of this method.

Clay is an ancient building material, the scope of which is varied and multifaceted. Clay itself is not used for insulation, since for effective thermal insulation its layer must be simply colossal - 50 - 80 cm. Such a weight cannot withstand wooden ceiling, and even such a thickness of the backfill is simply impractical, it is better to choose a modern material.

Therefore, to insulate the ceiling, clay is used in a mixture with sawdust.

First, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier film that does not allow water to pass through. Next, you can prepare a clay-sawdust solution. Water is poured into a large barrel, into which 4 - 5 buckets of clay are added. Then the clay is mixed in water so that the water takes on a dirty color and the clay is almost dissolved. Further, a part of the resulting mixture is poured into the concrete mixer and covered with sawdust. As you mix, the amount of water is added. As a result, the solution should turn out to be neither liquid nor thick.

An excellent option for insulating the ceiling in the attic wooden house- reed mats. Modern reed mats, tied with twine or wire, are simply stacked on top of the slabs in a staggered manner. Better if there are 2 layers, the second of them will overlap the joints of the mats of the first layer, removing the "cold bridges". The disadvantage of this method is fire hazard.

For those who want to insulate the ceiling with natural materials, seaweed is suitable. In the coastal regions, this material can be bought for a pittance, and if you wish, you can order delivery to another region. The advantage of seaweed ladders is that mice do not start in them, they are hypoallergenic and even medicinal, as they are saturated with iodine and sea salt, the vapors of which are useful, and also do not support combustion and do not smoke. Insects and microorganisms do not grow in algae.

Algae are not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vaporize the floor. Ladders are laid directly on the ceiling or floor with a layer of 200 mm. From above, you can equip the floor or lay boards for ease of movement.

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a modern material that is positioned as natural. To reduce flammability, it is treated with fire retardants or boric acid. Ecowool absorbs moisture in itself, so there is no need to lay a vapor barrier film.

Ecowool is laid immediately on wooden or concrete floors. This requires a special blowing machine, thanks to which all the cracks are blown out, the insulation layer is obtained as monolithic and saturated with the air contained inside. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 250 mm layer of ecowool is sufficient, but in colder regions it is better to make 400 - 500 mm.

The technology of insulating the ceiling with ecowool sometimes includes splashing water. It is needed in order to speed up the process of lignin formation. Then, after 1 - 3 weeks, a crust appears on top of the ecowool. Due to the fact that this material tends to cake, it is always necessary to take a stock of 5 - 15%.

Penoplex is a representative of the family of extruded polystyrene foam. This material is more durable than polystyrene, which means that it can be used to insulate concrete floors before pouring a concrete floor from above. A good option for insulating the ceilings of the first or second floor of a low-rise private house.

It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with Penoplex, if the floors are wooden. The fact is that EPS is absolutely non-breathable material. As a result, moisture will accumulate in wooden structures, this will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Before laying Penoplex on a concrete floor, the latter must be checked for irregularities. First, the surface is leveled, only then the vapor barrier material can be laid.

Then the Penoplex slabs are laid out. Be sure to take a break. Attached to the surface with special dowels with a mushroom head. The joints between the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam. After the foam dries, a cement-sand screed is poured on top with a layer of 50 mm. It will serve as a solid floor in the attic or second floor.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool (Ursoy)

The most demanded modern material for ceiling insulation is mineral wool. One of the manufacturers of thermal insulation materials based on minerals or fiberglass is the Ursa company, which has both roll positions and rigid slabs in its assortment.

Minvata Ursa in rolls is good for insulating wooden floors, it is convenient to lay it between the beams. But hard slabs of mineral wool are used for thermal insulation of concrete floors, although it is possible for wooden ones.

Insulation of the ceiling by Ursa is done in this way:

For wooden floors... A vapor barrier is laid between the floor beams. Its styling is required, since the mineral wool is afraid of moisture. The film is spread with an overlap, and the joints are glued with tape, a 15 - 25 cm overlap is made on the walls. Next, rolls of Ursa mineral wool with a thickness of 100 to 250 mm are placed between the beams, depending on the calculations of heat loss. The material must enter the space with effort. To do this, it must be cut with a small margin of 2 cm more than the distance between the beams. Then there are two ways: the first - you can leave the mineral wool open, but then you will not be able to walk on the floor, the second - you can make a wooden floor on top, leaving a 3 mm gap between the mineral wool and the floorboards. The advantage of mineral wool is its fire safety.

For concrete slabs. The concrete surface is leveled, then covered with a vapor barrier film. Slabs of mineral wool are laid on top, be sure to stagger. Further, a wooden floor or flooring made of boards, plywood, etc. is equipped. It is not recommended to perform a screed over mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which means that the main rule of thermal insulation will not be observed.

Ceiling insulation with foam (polyurethane foam)

Polyurethane foam is a modern material that is widely advertised as the most ideal insulation for ceilings and attics. The advantages of this material are incombustibility, good adhesion, neutrality to microorganisms and insects, waterproofing and soundproofing properties, resistance to temperature fluctuations, absence of cold bridges. The disadvantage is complete vapor tightness, which has a bad effect on the microclimate of the room.

Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out only by an organization specialized in this. The material is sprayed under high pressure so that it blows into all the cracks and envelops the protruding elements - columns, etc. The layer is usually 10 - 12 cm.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

An extremely undesirable measure is the insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room. In addition to reducing the overall height of the room, there is an extremely high risk of getting heat-insulating material or its vapors inside the room, as well as the likelihood of mold and mildew in the insulation. But if there is no other way out, you will have to at least take into account a number of restrictions: do not use mineral wool and form a ventilation gap between the insulation and the ceiling finish.

Insulation of the ceiling with extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)

EPPS is a good option for insulating a concrete ceiling. First, the crate is nailed, on which drywall will be attached in the future. The height of the lathing timber should be 2 - 3 mm more than the thickness of the insulation. The step between the slats should be equal to the Penoplex width minus 1 - 2 mm. Next, a heater is pushed between the crate, it must come in with effort. For greater reliability, it must be fixed with dowels to the ceiling. Then drywall is attached to the crate and a suspended ceiling is obtained. Instead of drywall, you can mount a stretch ceiling.

Penofol is foamed polyethylene, one side of which is foil. Its insulating properties are not so great, but if the heat loss is not too large, it may be sufficient.

It is necessary to fill a crate on the ceiling, to which Penofol is fixed, with the foil side inside the room. It can be nailed to the crate. On both sides of this material, it is necessary to perform a ventilation gap, so another crate is stuffed on top of it, to which drywall is attached. A stretch ceiling option is also possible.

The second way to insulate the ceiling with Penofol is to use it complete with Penoplex.

In addition to the Penoplex insulation method described above, Penofol is stuffed onto the crate, and only then - drywall.

Ceiling insulation with heat-insulating plaster mixes

For some unknown reason, the option of warming the ceiling with special thermal insulation plaster mixes not popular. But in vain. It is an excellent material for insulating a concrete ceiling. Plasters are absolutely environmentally friendly, decorative, do not suffer from moisture and steam, do not burn and are not afraid of fungus or mold. Among the materials of the UMKA company there are items that can be used indoors.

Ceiling insulation with white agglomerate of cork bark is an environmentally friendly natural way of insulation. The plug is convenient to use during installation false ceiling Armstrong type, fastening to the crate. The use of a vapor barrier is optional, since the cork is not afraid of moisture.

The methods of ceiling insulation described above are the most common, but the general list does not end there. There are many other natural and synthetic materials that can be used for thermal insulation of the attic of a private house. When choosing this or that method and material, be sure to take into account the general concept of your home. For example, insulating the ceiling of an environmentally friendly wooden house with Penoplex or Penofol is at least silly. To keep the wood dry and breathe, it is necessary to choose natural vapor-permeable materials such as algae, reeds, sawdust or ecowool. And for a house made of concrete, foam concrete or bricks, EPS and polyurethane foam will come in handy.