What should be the insulation of the ceiling. How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

The ceiling and roof account for, depending on local conditions and the design of the house, 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders for the insulation of ceilings, ceilings and roofs count the extra charge, because. the work is laborious and often it has to be done on weight. However, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is quite possible without having a building qualification: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment. To help those who decide to warm themselves from above on their own, this article is intended.

The general scheme of ceiling insulation with modern materials is not very complicated in appearance, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to the insulation that can ruin it. The waterproofing membrane does not let liquid moisture into it, incl. and condensate in the attic, but releases water vapor to the outside, which nevertheless penetrates to the insulation. In negligible amounts, but, accumulating, it is able to nullify the insulation and spoil the structure of the building.

However, behind the external simplicity is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. That's why will be considered next:

Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
Properties of modern insulating materials and additional coatings for them: roofing films, hydro- and vapor barriers; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
The possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and heaters: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the side of the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the side of the roof - for houses without an attic (eg summer houses and temporary houses) or with an attic.
How to insulate the ceiling in the house with cold roof and concrete floors.
Ways to insulate the ceiling in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bath.

Cold and warm roofs

A cold roof is called without the so-called. roofing cake: a multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roofing and the inner lining along the rafters. The device of the roofing pie belongs to another topic - roof insulation, but then we will have to get to know it. Firstly, for non-attic buildings and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and constructively, as can be seen on the right in the upper figure. Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic, along with the roof from the inside, provides the following advantages:

2 layers of insulation 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material 270-280 mm;
From paragraph 1, savings in the cost of insulation up to 40%, and the total, taking into account the greater consumption of the film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more efficient insulation materials;
By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an unprepared amateur;
"Two-stage" insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate the rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampness of the room.

About mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool in the Russian Federation breaks all records of popularity: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of readily available raw materials and production technology that has been developed for many decades. The disposal of blast-furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection of return capsules based on fibers from remelted heat-resistant rocks was developed. So the “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not so new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not need expensive special equipment, but there is a wide range of special fasteners and accessories for sale. As a result, the ceiling area up to 20-25 square meters. m, it is possible to insulate in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, this is who knows how. How it looks technologically, you can see in the video below.

Video: an example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading the following, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in this case it is not needed if the attic with the roof is already insulated; Why same hosts spread superfluous. More attention should be paid to the following measures Mineral wool precautions:

Established electrical wiring rolled into a bay and hanging on the wall.
Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected in the nearest junction box or on the introductory plate - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
Master dresses full set funds personal protection(PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, respirator. For the hobbyist it is important point, because rather expensive PPE will have to be used once.

Here it is already clear that mineral wool is not without drawbacks: it is an allergen and carcinogen of group 3, i.e. suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers, without exception, are prudently silent about, under the influence of even negligible amounts of moisture vapor and its own weight, mineral wool gives irreversible shrinkage, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges , like metal lintels, only based on microconvection. The gaps between the plates in 5% of the area of the insulated surface increase heat loss by 30-35%

From this follows another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting boards / rolls to size, it is necessary to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) so that the boards fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that cracks do not go from shrinkage in the future. Perhaps this is only on the basis of experience, because. material properties vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of a completely new mineral wool significantly depends on its moisture content - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in the further presentation, focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, we will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: look also at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of fishing line, then the jig can be left constant. Then special fasteners are not needed and, when mounted on the ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging of the middle and corners of the plates will be excluded.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point., the temperature at which this absolute, in g / cu. m of air, the content of water vapor in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. The ingress of the dew point into the living quarters is unacceptable: excessively wet air It has a detrimental effect on health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be a fatal circumstance.

For building structures the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood becomes moldy and rots, because. the resource of its antiseptic impregnation is not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, it remains to let it “walk” on the insulation, ensuring its isolation from moisture vapor and ventilation. The easiest way to implement such a scheme of insulation is when installing a heater from the outside, pos. 1a in fig.

Ways to “fight” with the dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analog - in the old days especially very coldy they put on 2 fur coats: a naked one with fur inside, and on top of it - with fur outside. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its scheme is developed so that the condensate in the heater migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into the collection and is removed or evaporates to the outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is needed that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. Such exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

Features of ceiling insulation, firstly, is that it is impossible to organize a condensate drain. Even if the ceiling is sloping, does the water flow along the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, the warm (exuding water vapor) and cold sides of the ceiling in a low-rise building can also change places in the cold season, due to solar heating. Therefore, the ceiling insulation technology is primarily focused on ensuring that there is no condensate in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

cold overlap

On the ceiling of a material that conducts heat well, e.g. concrete, when insulated from the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c, pos. 2a. Gap a, between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer - safety, in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. Gap a is necessarily ventilated, technically it is difficult to fulfill it, therefore it is desirable to insulate ceilings on concrete ceilings from the inside with massive, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is considered below. Gap b is accumulating, it creates a partial pressure of water vapor, which ensures their diffusion through a semipermeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but, since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a slot around the perimeter.

Note: if there is a technical possibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm overlay

"Warm", i.e. a ceiling that does not conduct heat well, creates a rather high barrier on the way of heat from the inside to the outside, shifting the dew point up into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without the gap a, which in turn simplifies the insulation wooden ceiling outside. Suddenly, the condensate at the border of the vapor barrier and the base will nevertheless fall out, then in a small amount, it will immediately be absorbed into the tree, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it will slowly evaporate. Residents will most likely not notice this - wood keeps its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate the wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below), a conventional waterproofing film without metallization will also go to the membrane. You just need to arrange air gap between the insulation and the membrane; its role has been discussed above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier are tightened if it is possible for water vapor to enter from free space, because. in this case, the intensity of their "attack" is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed from a foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. Gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is easier to provide it structurally. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5 is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with the substrate, see below: both the work is superfluous and the insulation is worse.

Materials for insulation

Modern successes in building insulation technology are largely due to advances in the field of separating films (membranes). The “good old” roofing material and glassine with their counterparts still find application, but when working for yourself, the last thing you should save on films. And in view of the quality with durability, and in view of the fact that, having spent a little “above” on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, we will start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separating coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barriers, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil isols), and membranes are divided into single-layer film, microperforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusion membranes that allow vapor to pass only in one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are effective only polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns. Polyethylene of any thickness, by virtue of its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. PVC under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because. gases do not pass a layer of foil on it. On quality material of this class, the edge of the foil is palpable at the edge of the tape, and it can be picked up by the corner with a sharp knife, i.e. foil is thick enough. Foil insulators with a substrate also have a layer of fibrous material (most often synthetic winterizer) on the back, i.e. the side facing the heater. If condensate falls out, it quickly goes through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so the foil insulation with the substrate must be mounted with lapels, like waterproofing the floor, facing into ventilation gap along the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulations with a substrate, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings, they are suitable only in heated rooms, because. in addition to vapors, liquids are also passed in a noticeable amount. When insulating from the attic, it is desirable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layer with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; are also used as coatings for greenhouses and greenhouses. To insulate the ceiling in them, it is good that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag much and ensures a stable gap height b.

Superdiffusion membranes are commercially available as roofing films, in the center in fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, designed for resistance to atmospheric precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind strength of underlay films is ensured by through reinforcement: for high-quality membranes, it is easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if quilted, on the right in Fig.

Heaters

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

Monolithic, or massive - dense, waterproof. The dew point can wander in them as you like without compromising the quality of insulation.
Loose, fibrous and porous - are produced in the form of plates (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced in comparison with the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, the properties of the material deteriorate from moisture, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
Bulk / sprayed - an insulating layer is formed on the spot; high-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

From monolithic heaters, foamed polystyrene is suitable for independent work. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPPS is produced with grooved boards, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in fig. XPS does not shrink, is not hygroscopic. It is durable, able to work as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and outdoor durability, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam plastic can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and mount on any surface with tile adhesive on water based or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm of mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam.

Foam and XPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; to insulate the EPS roof, you will have to disassemble the roof. However, a more serious drawback is its flammability and the release of a huge amount of highly toxic gases when ignited. If a fire in a room insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside occurred at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are actually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in some cases. Therefore, use polystyrene foam for internal insulation it is possible only in limited quantities and when it is impossible in any other way; see one of these options below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is high labor productivity with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals are so committed to them, for whom time is money. Mineral wool and sheet / slab polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work from "rukhlyakov". Mineral wool was analyzed in detail earlier, and neoprene for warming large areas is too expensive, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In terms of the combination of operational qualities, EPPS is almost as good as sprayed foam insulation. When frozen, they look like polystyrene, but are made on a formaldehyde-urea base, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic smoke. The mass forming penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is sufficient from the separators, so long as the foaming mass does not stick out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, serious professional training is required, therefore, equipment for spraying foam insulation is not rented.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blowing machine for it does not require vocational training, so they are widely sold and rented, from transported vehicles to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as a heater is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool, it is simply a miracle:

In terms of thermal conductivity, 0.037-0.042 W / (m * K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; an ecowool thickness of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 solid red bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
Up to a humidity of 20%, the heat-insulating properties of ecowool do not fall; on drying after limiting moisture, they are completely restored.
Sorption moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity - 16%.
Does not shrink, does not puff.
Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic (boric acid) and 7% flame retardant (borax) in the composition, it is slightly flammable and almost does not emit smoke in an extremely hot flame, see left in Fig. below.

Unattractive to rodents: glass wool is eaten, but ecowool is not touched. After 5 years of application in a house where mice are teeming, their moves in ecowool are not detected.
Can be applied dry by hand on exposed horizontal surfaces, with humidification by a blower into hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with moisture and the addition of 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both manual and sprayed.
High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which the pros should also pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area in terms of 120 sq. m are "blown out" for 1 work shift.

Note, for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most serious advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not show any of these properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when, has something inflamed or itched from old newspapers? Is that in the brains of the content of the articles. But for the preparation of ecowool, the paper carrier, together with the content, is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is about 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of PPE for mineral wool and the rental of a manual "blower", then the high cost remains approx. 15%. Let's also discard the cost of membranes (kraft paper on the warm side is enough for ecowool) - the cost of insulation is almost equal. And if you manually insulate the ceiling from the attic, then ecowool will cost less.
Secondly, ecowool must be prepared before use. The initial mass is sold compressed by 2.5-3.5 times, it needs to be fluffed up in some container, add, if necessary, water and glue. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder breaks out, the peasant will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about warming? And the chills and bills for heating went - you can only apply it dry, far from everywhere and not always.

Note: if you have some ecowool left from work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumb

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced by a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass crumb or simply foam crumb, right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into drywall pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic were not found. An example of a two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not roofing) provides vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumb, and mineral wool with ecowool, then polyethylene 120 microns thick will be enough instead of a membrane. In this case, the mounting jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be used to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Waste wood processing is also a traditional heater. How to insulate the attic with shavings, see the video below. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is more attractive, first, because of their poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill, they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulation with sawdust ceiling and floor in the attic

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin, they have a very big drawback: they can “oppose”, ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which unlucky drunks, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgling everything that is not water, it would seem, go blind and die. Therefore, sawmillers are happy to get rid of the "sawdust": according to modern sanitary requirements sawdust from under the sawmill should be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately in the same way that ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with woodworking waste is carried out as follows:

Work is carried out in the summer in the very heat and dryness;
Prepare in advance in 2 separate containers (necessarily separate) strong solutions boric and borax;
Insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
Each layer is abundantly sprayed with one and the other solutions alternately with the help of a stucco brush or a homemade sprinkler;
The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against their fermentation, even in a damp attic, is also provided by backfilling on a base of slab and clay, see below. To describe why, here, unfortunately, there is no way; the thing is unique properties clay and outer layers softwood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find oily clay in nature, it is a valuable mineral raw material, and on sale it is not cheap.

How to insulate the ceiling?

From the attic

The main ways to insulate the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in fig. It is preferable, of course, to get by with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that with a sufficiently massive ceiling roll-up, you need to make the lapels of the vapor barrier on ceiling beams or completely encircle them with vapor protection. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the ceiling is hemmed thin, then the jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is fixed from the inside between the beams and the ceiling sheathing.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the heater, the scheme on the right will be more laborious, but also more efficient, acc. sections of rice: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the over-beam layer is made of square mats apart, i.e. with offset seams.

Note: See also the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From within

No attic

In the private economy, in addition to the additional insulation described above, from the inside, most often it is necessary to insulate non-attic buildings "on the go", in the middle of the cold season. For example, they started to build, built a utility block or a temporary hut for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying, the pig has become sad for something and is emaciated before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it, you'll have to insulate the roof.

A typical design of a warm roof is shown on the left in fig. Insulation lapels down are necessary to avoid freezing of corners. This system has 2 nodes, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-rail, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to complete without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” scheme of node A is shown in Fig. top right. Here it is taken into account that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there is no ridge beam, and the ridge "beam" is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shaped manner. ventilation holes drill 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing material, then there is nothing to do so that rain does not drip through the ventilation, you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge run, at least from bent galvanized strips.

How to deal with node B is shown at the bottom right. It uses the fact that in a small self-built crossbar ( load-bearing structure) roof beams do not perform. The role of embedded in rafter legs the longitudinal beams of the crossbar are laid on the boards of the lathing under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from top to bottom. In Fig., presumably, everything is clear: the roofing membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the necessary power of the insulation is obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing bars.

In an apartment building

Self-insulate ceilings apartment building only possible from the inside. Firstly, tenants do not have the right to work on the roof or in the common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for overhaul? The roof is cold - you need to demand its insulation from the operator; does not want - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

Nevertheless, while there is fuss and trials, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. Typical scheme insulation of the ceiling from the inside on concrete is shown on the left in fig. Its main drawback is not at all expensive, subject to corrosion and far from always as effective as manufacturers say, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not the same as thermal washers for mounting polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with a wooden crate. And not special materials for the thermal gap along the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This does not add habitability in modern apartments in any way, but what about Khrushchev houses with 2.5 m ceilings that are most in need of insulation?

But here, too, there is an acceptable way out. We take into account, first, that stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling mainly in the corners. Whoever has not seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments get moldy and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses very fire resistant. It is possible to achieve an extensive fire in them only by a well-thought-out malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small amount.

Warming scheme concrete ceiling, worked out back in Brezhnevka, when drywall appeared on sale, is given on the right in fig. From the height of the ceiling in this way, only approx. 5 cm. It is quite difficult to fill the pockets of the corners along it, therefore this technology did not really take root even then: the corners are sheathed first on the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and the insulation is poured into the gaps between the laths of the crate. Styrofoam and horizontal filing are mounted last.

And now let's remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to blow it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

Attic insulation is actually the same special topic as roof insulation. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. See what is on the left in the figure, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to get into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow out with ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without much difficulty.

Garage and bath

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price doesn’t really bite, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The diagram of the garage ceiling insulation on steel beams is given on the left in fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers apart horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is then not needed, enough kraft paper from the inside along the ceiling filing.

With a bath, things are simpler: the features of its design, without which a bath is not a bath, and the thermal / humidity mode of operation make it possible to develop a universal scheme for warming the ceiling of a bath, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it is certainly basalt, the other will not pull thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate the bath with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to cook the mass with the addition of glue.

Warming ceiling structures in a private house - this is one of the stages of arranging the ceiling, and far from the most difficult. All that needs to be done to complete this work is to understand the design of the heat-insulating layer, select the best insulation for a particular situation and mount it correctly. About how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

The choice of insulation

It is not necessary to think for a long time about whether it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, because the answer is obvious. Thermal insulation is designed not only to keep heat within the building, but also to reduce heating costs. The fact is that thermal energy seeks to leave the house, with the largest leaks always occurring through ceiling and floor structures. Insulation of interfloor floors can be mediocre, but the ceiling, behind which there is an unheated attic, must be protected very well - otherwise most of the heat will go through the roof.

When choosing a heater for the ceiling in a private house, you need to take into account a whole range of parameters, including:

The level of thermal conductivity - the lower this indicator, the less heat loss will be;
Moisture absorption coefficient - reduction given parameter directly proportional to the amount of moisture that can be absorbed into the insulation;
Weight and density - the lower, the more convenient it will be to mount the material;
Flammability class - it is desirable to select products of category G1;
Environmental friendliness.

For the manufacture of floors in private homes, either concrete or wood is used. Insulation of concrete structures can be carried out with loose and sprayed materials, as well as plate products. To work with wooden floors any type of insulation is suitable - as long as they have a minimum thermal conductivity. Installation methods of heaters may differ, so each case must be considered individually.

Ceiling insulation methods

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be done in two ways:

internal;
outdoor.

The methods are quite different, and each of them has a number of characteristic features. Both insulation options can be used either separately or together (in the latter case, highest efficiency). To insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, it is worth considering both methods in more detail and understanding their inherent nuances.

internal

When insulating the ceiling in a room, it is imperative to mount a frame on which the heat-insulating materials will be held. This method is not very profitable - firstly, the usable volume of the room after installing all the elements decreases, and secondly, it is rather inconvenient to mount the system under the ceiling, so it will take more time and effort to complete the work.

In order for the insulation of the ceiling inside the house to function normally, it is necessary to mount a vapor barrier layer. The thing is that the steam inevitably moves up and tries to go outside the room. If this does not happen, then moisture vapor will lead to rotting of the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its properties.

outdoor

With external insulation, the situation is much simpler. In this case, it is not necessary to mount the frame, and as a heater, you can use any materials that have low degree thermal conductivity - sawdust, slag, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. This method of insulation is especially relevant for attic spaces that are not planned to be used as residential.

When arranging an attic in the attic, external insulation will be one of the stages of floor installation. Of course, the complexity of installation increases because of this - you will have to assemble the frame for the floor structure, which in the future (after laying the insulation) will be sewn up from the outside. You can sheathe the floor with any materials that are used to cover the floor - boards, durable plywood or OSB boards.

Concrete ceiling insulation

It is much easier to equip the thermal insulation of concrete floors from the attic side - it will be quite convenient to perform each stage of work. However, this is not always possible, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in the house from the inside, forming a frame for heat-insulating materials under the ceiling.

For installation, you need to prepare the following set of tools in advance:

Perforator or drill (for drilling holes in the ceiling);
Screwdriver and a set of drills;
Building level;
Cord and marker for marking.

Also, even before you insulate the ceiling, you need to purchase all the building materials:

A sufficient number of metal profiles for drywall (a good alternative would be square wooden bars 40x40 mm);
Hangers for profiles;
Fasteners (best suited "crabs" for suspended ceilings);
Thermal insulation material (foam or mineral wool boards, or roll insulation);
Sheets for the outer cladding of the frame (drywall or plywood);
Vapor barrier film.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is as follows:

First you need to markup. In order for the structure to end up in its place, the markup must take into account the features of the frame and the room. The frame itself consists of transverse and longitudinal racks, which are attached to each other with the help of "crabs" and held on the ceiling with suspensions.
To simplify the work, it is worth mounting the longitudinal racks in such a way that the step between them matches the width of the selected insulation. However, an excessive increase in the step (over 80 cm) will also not lead to anything good - as a result, the rigidity of the structure will be insufficient.
The marking itself is applied to all walls along which the frame will be installed. The marking is applied in accordance with the cord, which is stretched between the corners and checked for alignment with a level. Having marked the walls, you need to go to the ceiling and make all the necessary marks on it.
Now you need to mount the profiles. First of all, a guide metal profile is installed, which must be positioned in accordance with the markings on the walls.
The next step is the installation of suspensions. These elements are usually located on the ceiling in increments of about 80-90 cm. Having decided on the attachment points, you need to drill the required number of holes in the ceiling.
Now it's time to form the frame by mounting the longitudinal and transverse racks. Of course, when installing these profiles, you need to be guided by the markup.
The selected insulation is mounted in the assembled frame. To keep it in place, you need to bend the edges of the hangers - they will ensure the fixation of the material during installation.
Next, you need to install a layer of vapor barrier. You need to work very carefully with the film - it has a fragile structure, and it is very easy to damage it with something sharp. The vapor barrier film is carefully stretched between the racks of the frame and fastened with double-sided tape.
The last stage is the sheathing of the frame. Sheathing sheets must be fastened in such a way that there is a minimum gap between them. The optimal arrangement of sheets is perpendicular to the guides. Between themselves, the sheets are connected in the middle of the profile. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, the caps of which need to be slightly drowned in the thickness of the material. The distance between the screws for reliable fastening should be about 30 cm, and about 3-4 cm should be retreated from the corners of the sheet.

When insulating the ceiling with your own hands from inside the house, you need to ensure that there is a gap of at least 1 cm thick between the sheathing and the heat insulator. This gap is necessary to ensure normal ventilation of the structure.

Installation of external thermal insulation

External insulation of floors can have both single-layer and multi-layer construction. However, regardless of the design of the insulation, you need to try to reduce its total weight, and this is true for any type of floor. If we are talking about bulk materials, it is also necessary to correctly determine the required layer thickness. For example, sawdust will require about 25 cm, and expanded clay for high-quality insulation is enough for a layer 15 cm thick.

To move around the attic, you should assemble a simple frame and put boards or slabs on it. It is best to mount the frame from wooden boards or beams. The latter will be ideal if the final design will have a small thickness.

The installation algorithm includes the following steps:

First you need to decide on the installation step of the frame elements. It is best to build on the width of the selected insulation, so that it is convenient to mount it.
Next, you need to decide exactly how the transverse and longitudinal elements of the frame will be installed.
The boards, in accordance with the finished scheme, are installed with their ends in place and fixed with metal corners and self-tapping screws.

External insulation can be performed using a variety of heat-insulating materials - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk insulation. You have to choose the material individually, depending on financial capabilities and requirements. It is worth considering several options in more detail.

Styrofoam

Insulation with foam boards is the easiest option. The foam plastic has fixed dimensions, which allows you to do without trimming by pre-mounting the frame, taking into account this parameter. There are no special requirements for the dimensions of the plates themselves - standard sheets can be meter and half meter wide, and this difference will not affect the quality of the insulation.

Another thing is the brand of foam. If we are talking about the insulation of the attic floor, then C25 would be the best option. The density of this brand is quite high, due to which a small thermal conductivity is achieved. If necessary, you can purchase more expensive C35 foam or polyurethane foam - these materials are considered the most reliable.

mineral wool

Another good option are materials based on mineral fibers. All these materials are excellent performance, but they also have a common drawback - mineral wool is very hygroscopic. This suggests that when moisture enters the material absorbs it and loses most of its properties.

It is because of this shortcoming that the possibilities of using mineral wool are limited. However, this limitation can be circumvented, for which you will have to take care of high-quality waterproofing attic and ceiling, so that the material does not have the opportunity to contact even with moisture vapor, not to mention direct contact.

Sawdust

One of the answers to the question of how to fill the ceiling in the house is sawdust. Sawdust is the cheapest heat-insulating material that is suitable for external insulation. However, low cost can be called perhaps the only advantage of this material. sawdust are organic material, rotten, so it must be mixed with lime before use.

You can also mix a solution consisting of 10 parts of water, one part of water and one part of sawdust. When the ceiling is thermally insulated with sawdust, the mixing process looks exactly the same as when mixing concrete. The resulting composition is used to completely fill the space in the frame. Before sheathing, the material must be left for some time to dry.

Expanded clay

The most convenient bulk insulation is expanded clay. It is a granular material having particles of different sizes. In order for the insulation efficiency to be maximum, when backfilling, it is necessary to alternate small granules with large ones - as a result, there will be fewer voids in the layer, and this will improve the quality of thermal insulation.

The technology of insulation when using expanded clay is no different from any other bulk materials. First you need to mount the formwork (framework), and then fill it with a uniform layer of granules.

Ecowool

The raw materials for the manufacture of ecowool are not environmentally friendly materials, as the name might seem, but various wastes - newspapers, bags or cardboard. The components are treated with acid, so that the finished material has minimal flammability and is well protected from biological influences.

Of the advantages of ecowool, it is worth noting, first of all, a small thermal conductivity, which provides good insulation, and the ability to pass steam, due to which the material is not susceptible to fungus and mold. In addition, this material is very easy to install and is quite suitable for do-it-yourself insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling with ecowool in a private house can be carried out in a dry, wet and adhesive way. The first method is quite simple - the material is simply placed in the frame and compacted. For the second and third methods, you need special equipment that allows you to spray ecowool on the desired areas.

polyurethane foam

IN modern construction very popular is polyurethane foam, which, among other purposes, is also used for insulation. This material is available in the form of foam, which can be applied to any type of surface. A distinctive feature is the absence of the need for any fasteners - this insulation for the ceiling inside the house in the country is independently glued to everything it comes into contact with.

Among the main advantages of polyurethane foam, it is worth noting the following qualities:

Low flammability;
No toxic emissions;
Good chemical resistance;
Low hygroscopicity;
Long service life.

The sprayed polyurethane foam forms a solid layer that does not have cracks and gaps, due to which low thermal conductivity is achieved. However, steam can freely pass through the pores of the material, so it is not necessary to equip the vapor barrier. To apply this insulation to the coating, it must first be dried (for concrete floors, the permissible moisture level is 4%, and for wooden floors - 12%).

Areas that should not be insulated should be well covered before work (plastic wrap or thick fabric is fine). Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, subject to constant control of the thickness of the spray. Apply the next layer only after the previous one has completely cured. Being the most expensive insulation, polyurethane is very easy to apply and perfectly performs the functions assigned to it.

Conclusion

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out in several ways. In some cases, you will have to make more effort, with others it will be easier, but you will have to pay more. The main thing is that for any conditions you can choose the best option, which will be quite profitable and effective.

Ceiling insulation in a private house - a guarantee warm rooms in winter and cool climate in summer. You need to take care of this even at the stage of building a house. But if the house got ready, you can still insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.

School knowledge of physics can still be useful in life. So, due to convection, when cold air goes down, and the hot one goes up, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the uninsulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, it is necessary to increase the power of the boiler and, as a result, incur additional heating costs.

For the same reason, ceiling insulation requires a more serious approach than wall insulation - due to air currents, the heat loss of a wooden ceiling can reach 3 W/m2/K. For brick or concrete floors, the figure is even higher. At the same time, there is no need to insulate the ceilings between living quarters if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of soundproofing and save money on thermal insulation of the attic and roof.

In summer, it is also better to have an insulated ceiling - the roof heated in the sun transfers heat into the room, nullifying the work of air conditioners. Having spent once on thermal insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.

What to look for when choosing a heater?

First of all, you need to decide on the place of laying the insulation - inside or outside. living rooms. The first option is highly undesirable for several reasons:

ceiling height is reduced;
it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
the cooling point moves closer to inside floors;
inevitable repairs due to the dismantling of the old ceiling.

Attic insulation is devoid of all these negative traits. But if an attic is not provided, or an attic floor is provided for in the project, the roof must be immediately insulated.

The choice of materials for insulation with your own hands

Styrofoam or EPPS, as well as mineral wool and its analogues, are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. Such materials are laid between beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with drywall, OSB boards or clapboard.

But if the house has a sauna, then it is better not to insulate the ceiling above it with polystyrene foam - due to high temperatures, it can begin to release substances harmful to humans.

Aerated concrete slabs are also excellent for internal insulation - due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness up to 10 cm will not “eat” a lot of height, and additional plating is not required. Glue is applied to the boards with a notched trowel polystyrene boards and presses against the ceiling.

The insulation is puttied and painted.

Bulk heaters are quite economical - shavings, ecowool or expanded clay. True, having a high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. Such insulation is poured between the beams from the side of the attic with a layer of about 15 cm, and for ease of movement in the attic they are covered with OSB boards.

True, having a high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.

What kind of insulation is not chewed by mice?

Mice gnaw on any insulation. But not as food, but to expand their moves. You can hear claims that mice eat Styrofoam. This is not entirely true - they gnaw through it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall mineral wool, although a little later.

Because of the flowability, ecowool can save a little - but rodents will simply endure it until they can settle and move normally in a heater. Expanded clay is the most resistant to rodents - strong "pebbles", large enough so that mice and even rats cannot carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill up their moves.

But there is a catch here - the mice will arrange “laying” there. Therefore, the only way to protect the insulation is to keep rodents out of it in principle. Everything else is just a temporary and very unreliable solution.

How to insulate the ceiling of the attic floor?

Do-it-yourself insulation from the attic side is quite simple. First, space is freed up and completely removed flooring(if it was). Work is done step by step:

To insulate a concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - it is enough to lay logs on top of the concrete. You can also use sprayed materials, but this requires special equipment and certain skills.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside?

With the help of a suspended ceiling, you can insulate the room from the inside. For this:

Due to lack of ventilation Spotlights it is undesirable to use it in an insulated ceiling - they heat up and quickly fail. And upon contact with the foam, the insulation may begin to melt.

There are three ways to solve the problem. The first is to use only pendant chandeliers and wall lights. The second is to remove the layer of thermal insulation around the fixtures built into the ceiling. At the same time, do not forget about the vapor barrier - it should close the mineral wool without gaps. And the third is to lower the ceiling a few more centimeters, sufficient to install spotlights.

How to insulate the attic floor and ceiling attic floor detailed in the video:

Heating modern buildings performed by gas or electric equipment. Buildings with periodic residence (cottage, garden house, country cottage). Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof allows you to reduce heat loss and create an optimal microclimate in the premises.

The choice of materials for thermal insulation of a cold roof

The construction market offers an extensive selection of materials for thermal insulation. However, not every insulation is designed for laying in the attic space with a cold roof. In order to profitability of the planned insulation, you should choose the right heat insulator. First of all, such materials are selected with resistance to moisture, low thermal conductivity and compliance with SNiP.

Often, for thermal insulation work, materials such as:

This insulation refers to bulk-type heat insulators obtained by firing shale. Advantages - light weight, porous structure, high thermal insulation and resistance to water.

The material is sold in the form of a fibrous type of mineral-based insulation. standard form release - mats, plates, rolls. It is this material that is recognized as the best option for ceiling insulation. However, the price tag for a heat insulator starts at 950 rubles. per roll. Advantages - excellent heat retention, sound insulation. The only negative is heavy weight, so when choosing this material, you should take into account the load on the truss system.

It is made from expanded polystyrene foam, but in the final version of this substance no more than 2-3% remains in the composition. Thus, more than 95% of the foam are air cells. Due to this, light weight and excellent thermal insulation performance are achieved. Additional advantages include - resistance to moisture and preservation of properties in contact with water. Installation of polystyrene foam boards is easy, i.e. you can do it by hand. To do this, the plates are cut to the required width, laid on the floor of the attic between the lags and fixed.

Builders pay attention to the importance of insulating the floor located in the attic space under a cold roof. Also important is the laying of steam and waterproofing.

The specifics of the roof with a cold "pie"

The structure of the attic floor cake has classical scheme, consisting of layer-by-layer mounting of materials in the following order:

waterproofing film;
thermal insulation layer;
roofing materials.

This type of construction is relevant for households, where the space under the attic is non-residential, respectively, it is not heated in winter. The essence of the cold roof - rafter system, on top of which PVC film for waterproofing and roofing materials are laid.

The expediency of this type of roof is due to its light weight, low construction costs and easy installation than in construction warm type roofs. In view of this, a cold roof is a practical and budgetary construction option. country house or cottages.

If there are no radiators in the attic, then the air will act as a buffer to reduce heat loss. According to the principle of convection, in which warm air rises, at the bottom it will be subject to cooling. The result of this process is the internal heating of the slopes, which excludes the formation of ice.

In order to preserve heat, as well as to reduce the financial costs of heating, work is underway to lay ceiling insulation for a cold attic.

Heat insulators are chosen, as a rule, of two types - fibrous or backfill. Installation of such materials is simple, efficient and effective. Since the flow of hot air always tends to rise, and the insulated attic will not cool it, thus creating an almost identical temperature throughout the house.

The technological process of laying insulation

Carrying out work on the insulation of the house from the side of the second floor with a cold roof is carried out with expanded clay or mineral wool. Only in some cases (dacha, garden house) use inexpensive foam.

Installation of expanded clay heat insulator

For thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic with expanded clay, a PVC film for vapor barrier is laid on the floors. It is fixed with a construction stapler.

PVC film is laid with an overlap of 15-20 cm on the wall and adjacent areas of waterproofing. As a warning of gaps, the sections are fixed with adhesive tape.

The next step - expanded clay is poured on top of the vapor barrier material. The thickness of the insulation varies from 15 to 30 cm. When planning the arrangement of a finishing screed, the entire space between the lags must be filled with expanded clay heat insulator.

The final stage is the arrangement of a screed from a sand-cement mixture. The thickness of the consistency should be from 50 mm. The advantage of this method of insulation is fire and injury safety during further operation, as well as environmental friendliness.

The procedure for laying mineral wool from the side of a cold attic

When using mineral wool, vapor barrier and waterproofing should be laid first. In this version of insulation, you can not save on the quality of materials, because. if mineral wool is not properly protected, water can get on it, as a result of which it will lose more than 60% of its qualities.

Installation of mineral wool is carried out between the logs on the floor of the attic. Subsequently, the heat insulator is closed with a fine finish. If the floors are made of concrete, then the first step is to level the plane. Then the floor is covered with a film and the installation of plates is carried out. Finish coat done with plywood or wooden board. Next, the screed of the plates is equipped.

To insulate the attic wooden house, it is necessary to fill the cells between the beams with an insulator. Then the film is overlapped with an overlap on the wall up to 250 mm. The joints are reinforced with construction tape.

Conclusion

The types of heaters and installation methods discussed in the article are common. However, the list of heat insulators for cold roofs is much wider. Also in construction hypermarkets you can find special materials for country houses High Quality.

When choosing a material for attic thermal insulation, experts recommend paying attention to the nuances of construction. It should also be remembered that in a wooden house you should not use hermetic heaters, such as Penofol or Penoplex, because. they are designed for use in concrete houses.

Prevent heat loss during the cold season, and create a comfortable microclimate during summer heat. It has been established that a room can lose up to 40% of heat through the ceiling. This is mainly due to the convection of the air mass tending to rise up. If the ceiling is not insulated at the same time, and does not constitute an obstacle to movement warm air, all kilocalories collected from heating appliances, quickly volatilize into the external environment.

Therefore, the question of how to insulate the ceiling is by no means idle, especially in the northern regions.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

There are several ways to insulate the ceiling. There are 2 main types: ceiling insulation from the inside of the room and type 2, when insulation is carried out outside the room.

Sometimes type 3 is used - combined, in which both external and internal insulation is carried out.

Insulation of the ceiling surface inside a dwelling presupposes the use of exclusively environmentally friendly materials that are not harmful to human health.

When insulating from the outside, it is permissible to use synthetic types of materials that are harmless under certain conditions of laying and installation.

As a rule, measures to prevent heat losses through the ceiling are incorporated into the technological process at the design stage. However, if during operation it turns out that the insulation is insufficient, or there is an opportunity to improve thermal insulation, side events for warming.

Ceiling insulation technologies

Various methods of ceiling insulation consist in applying a certain insulating material over the ceiling, under which the living room is located. Ceiling insulation can be natural or synthetic.

Natural heaters include sand, clay, various slags, shavings and sawdust, dry leaves or tree needles, as well as straw and moss. Expanded clay can also be attributed to this category, since it is the result of heat treatment of natural clay, it is absolutely environmentally friendly and, moreover, which is very valuable, it is resistant to fire and moisture.

The most widespread is the insulation of the ceiling with sawdust. Usually they insulate wooden buildings, as they are light and do not overload the load-bearing beams of the floors with excess weight. With the introduction of various antiseptic impregnations for wood, flame retardants and antifungal additives, sawdust ceiling insulation has become safe and not very expensive.

The sawdust laying technology is simple, but requires care and accuracy. Before insulating the ceiling, the original surface is well dried and cleaned of debris. A vapor barrier film is spread under the bulk layer, which will prevent moisture saturation of the wood. It can also be roofing material or parchment paper. IN ideal sawdust pillow must be absolutely dry, then its thermal insulation properties have maximum performance. In practice, the embankment is isolated from below, leaving the top open. This is done for ventilation, because sawdust is hygroscopic and able to suck moisture out of the surrounding space. If the attic space is well ventilated and has no leaks, then the ceiling, insulated in this way, will do its job perfectly.

In order to understand how to properly insulate the ceiling, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the general nuances that are characteristic of this type of work.

Firstly, the thickness of the insulation layer must be calculated according to the GOST tables recommended specifically for the area where the work is being done. IN specific example insulation of the ceiling with sawdust, it is recommended to arrange an embankment with a thickness of 80 to 150 mm.

Secondly, when choosing a material and laying technology, it is necessary to clearly understand where the dew point will be, and how to effectively ventilate the insulation, if it needs it.

For example, synthetic insulation such as polyurethane, foam or polystyrene are themselves waterproofing materials. But all types of mineral wool require compliance with the dry regime, otherwise their thermal insulation properties are lost.

And the third rule, which gives an answer to the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling, says that during installation there should not be thermal bridges through which leakage is possible. This means that the heat-insulating material must cover the entire surface to be treated in a uniform and continuous layer.

It is possible to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool both outside the room and from the inside.

Mineral wool is made from sand and glass cullet by stretching into fine fibers and then pressing into mats or rolled strips. The result is a material that retains heat and noise well. But for a person, it can be dangerous, since vitreous fibers are brittle and, moving in the air, can enter the respiratory system or eyes. The exception is basalt wool, the fibers of which are elastic.

In addition, in the production of mineral wool, phenol-formaldehyde resins are used, which serve as the main binder. During operation, harmful chemical fumes are released into the air. Therefore, when insulating rooms with mineral wool from the inside, it is necessary to observe the principle of complete isolation of the insulation from moving air. In practice, this is achieved, for example, by installing a false ceiling made of plasterboard or stretch ceiling. But even in these cases, cotton wool must be covered with a protective film.

An important condition that forms thermal insulation when insulating the ceiling with mineral wool from the inside: laying should be carried out in such a way that the material does not crumple and does not form cracks. Therefore, during installation work, it is required to cut the material with an error of no more than 1-2 mm, and fasten it between the supporting elements of the false ceiling structure. Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool should be carried out using a respirator and other protective equipment.

The same principle must be observed when the ceiling is insulated from the outside with glass wool, from the side of the attic. From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor-tight membrane and sewn up with boards or flooring materials that perform a protective function.

Exceptional thermal insulation properties have a material such as polystyrene. Ceiling insulation with foam plastic is not uncommon today, and some masters use foam plastic in combination with mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Most often, such insulation is carried out above the ceiling from the attic. It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic from the inside, since this material not only supports combustion, but also emits asphyxiating gases that are dangerous to human health.

When installing foam blocks, polyurethane foam is used to seal the joints between sheets.

Well established itself as a foam insulation. Due to the strong structure and environmental safety, insulation of the ceiling with foam plastic has become a well-established practice. finishing works. From the inside, as a rule, they assemble this insulation only in cases where for some reason it is not possible to do this outside the house.

Fastened to concrete with special mushroom brackets made of plastic. From above it is closed either by a false ceiling, if this is the insulation of the ceiling from the inside. Either a boardwalk or a special facade coating. In addition, it is practiced to install a cement screed over the foam layer in those places where it is advisable.

We should never forget that foam, like polystyrene, is a material that supports combustion. Therefore, when using ceiling insulation with this material, it is always necessary, for safety reasons, to adhere to the rules of installation work and act within the framework of proven technologies.

In addition to the insulation of residential premises, all of the listed materials are also used for the insulation of service facilities: garages, workshops, basements, etc.

Warming of balconies and loggias

IN Lately popular among the urban population was the conversion of balconies and loggias into living space. In this regard, the ceiling insulation on the balcony has become in demand. In principle, the procedure is no different from the standard. But sometimes, due to small areas, non-standard materials are used.

Where it is not convenient to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic, the technology of insulation with the innovative paint of the Aktorm company began to come into use. A 1 mm Acterm-Concrete coating layer, for example, is equivalent in terms of thermal insulation properties to 5 cm of foam plastic. This quality is achieved by filling the dye with microscopic ceramic spheres, which reflect not only ultraviolet, but also thermal radiation. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation saves money, although the paint itself is not cheap.

Insulation of the ceiling of the loggia, as well as the rest of the side surface of the loggia, with foam plastic is done after the glazing, and is carried out very quickly. Due to the excellent technological qualities of foam plastic, its processing and fitting to any configuration does not cause difficulties. On top of the insulation is covered finishing material. It can be drywall or lining. On the ceiling, slatted ceilings are often used, into which they are very conveniently built lighting. Thermal insulation of ceilings with mineral wool on loggias and balconies is not recommended.

Warming

As in a house or apartment, to create comfort and a stable microclimate, ceiling insulation is common. The specificity of this type of insulation is that fuels and lubricants are usually stored in the garage, creating an additional risk of fire. That's why the best heaters other conditions being equal, there will be expanded clay and mineral wool. Depending on the design features of the garage (ceiling height, presence of an attic space), insulation is installed outside or inside the room.

Attic insulation

A separate type of insulation of the attic can be considered the insulation of the attic ceiling. In fact, thermal insulation work is carried out between the useful volume of the attic and the roof. Insulating the ceiling with foam plastic will not work here. And therefore, mineral heaters are used, in particular basalt wool, which has a structure that is most suitable for human health. On 2 sides of the cotton wool there should be membranes that regulate the flow of moisture, and on the inner, residential side, a finishing layer of drywall is attached.