Installation of plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands. How to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands

A structure such as a plasterboard ceiling is the ideal solution for furnishing any type of room. This material is extremely popular in construction and renovation work. GKL ceiling has many advantages over other types of finishes. First of all, it is the ability to hide the curvature and other defects of the floor slab.

Ceiling plasterboard is an environmentally friendly material that is completely harmless to humans. The finished surface is perfectly flat, without the slightest hint of sagging or changes in height. The opening between the plasterboard and the baseboard can accommodate electrical wires, telecommunication cables and a ventilation system.

With proper processing, plasterboard ceilings can not only be painted and pasted over with wallpaper, but also finished with ceramic tiles and mirror panels. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without hiring a hired labor?

When carrying out construction and repairs, any type of gypsum board can be used for the ceiling. However, it is advisable to focus on the ceiling version. The plasterboard for the ceiling is thinner (9 mm), which makes the sheets lighter and easier to work with. The decision about which drywall is best for the ceiling should be made only after evaluating the conditions in which the suspended structure will be used.

Varieties and use of gypsum board for the ceiling

When finishing various rooms, you can sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard of the following types:

ordinary. This material is used for cladding office, residential and commercial premises, where constant temperature and humidity are maintained. The outer coating of such products is gray and blue. Such a sheet is lightweight, which saves on material for the frame and reduces the load on the floor slab. Standard ceiling plasterboard is produced in the form of plates 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm high. Ordinary gypsum plasterboard bends well when wetted and retains its shape after drying. The figured box and steps made from it look very impressive;
moisture resistant. In the manufacture of the filler for this material, silicone and antifungal drugs are used. To resist dampness, the mixture is placed in a special impregnated cardboard. It should be borne in mind that waterproof boards do not absorb moisture at all. Therefore, it will not work to give them a curvilinear shape. Install waterproof slabs in rooms with high humidity levels or in apartments where there is a high risk of flooding from the upper floors. The outer surface of this finishing material is green in color;
fire resistant. Refractoriness is achieved by adding special reinforcing additives to the material and impregnating it with antipyrine. A suspended ceiling is made of fire-resistant material in rooms where there should be an increased level of fire safety. These can be cash desks, archives, panel boards and bank vaults. Manufacturers paint the refractory sheets pink or gray with red markings.

Having considered the drywall models that can be used in work, it is worth dwelling on how to make a drywall ceiling. This is a fairly simple job that even a beginner can do, it is important to look through the manual for working with the material.

Tools and materials

The manufacture of a suspended structure from plasterboard sheets is an activity that does not require the use of professional equipment.

To install the gypsum board on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

puncher;
screwdriver;
scissors for metal;
building level;
a hammer;
roulette;
plane;
square;
marker;
wide and narrow steel spatula;
mixer for mixing the solution;
set of drills and crowns.

In order to protect the respiratory system and eyes from dust, it is necessary to purchase a respirator and goggles. Since the work will be carried out at a height, you will need stable goats or a stepladder.

To find out the required amount of material, we advise you to use our

The calculation of building materials is carried out on the basis of a prepared project. It indicates the type of construction (single-level, multi-level), frame schemes, electrical wiring, location of drywall sheets and insulation, places and type of lamps, sensors and other devices.

To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you will need the following materials and devices:

starting and finishing putty;
mounting plastic tape;
self-tapping screws for metal;
breaker cord;
sandpaper;
abrasive mesh;
liquid primer;
drywall sheets.

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, they must be allowed to lie down for several days in the room. This is necessary in order for the material to acquire the humidity and temperature corresponding to the working conditions.

Preparatory activities

Despite the fact that the gypsum boards completely cover the floor slab, it is necessary to take measures for its preventive repair and conservation. If this is not done, then leaks, the development of fungus and mold are quite possible. Underestimating the preparation of the base plate for installation can lead to the most unpleasant consequences, such as colonization of the space between the ceilings by rodents and insects.

Before you start making plasterboard ceilings, you must perform the following activities:

if your house is being repaired, then check the condition of the roof and rafters. If necessary, carry out the restoration of the roof;
remove from the room all interior items that may be damaged during the repair process. Cover the rest of the things with a plastic protective film;
remove all communications, sensors and lighting from the base plate. Assess the condition of the wiring. Replace it if necessary;
remove the dilapidated finish and fragments of the floor slab that are not firmly adhered to it. Clean up cracks and holes;
Seal all existing defects of the base plate with cement mortar or synthetic sealant. Treat its surface with an antiseptic and a deep penetration primer.

Further work can be started immediately after the primer has dried. In the course of their implementation, it is necessary to strictly perform all stages of the activity in a certain sequence. Step-by-step instructions for each phase of the work will help to make repairs efficiently and quickly.

Plasterboard frame construction

The most practical and reliable way to create a frame is to use a steel profile. The profile is completed with extension cords and connectors of various configurations and purposes. This makes it possible to assemble both flat and complex suspended structures on the ceiling.

We make a frame from a steel galvanized profile in the following sequence:

the height of the walls is measured in all corners of the room. In the lowest corner, a mark is made 10 cm from the floor slab. From this mark, a horizontal line is drawn along all the walls. On the base plate, lines are drawn parallel to the wall at intervals of 60 cm;
holes are drilled along the drawn line with a step of 30-40 cm. After the plastic dowels are inserted into them, the UD profile guides are screwed to the wall;
fastening of vertical suspensions to the ceiling plate is carried out. The fixing step should be within 60-80 cm;
the workpieces of the supporting CD profile are sawn. Their length should be 35-40 mm shorter than the distance between the edges of the bearing profile;
the supporting profile is inserted into the openings of the guide profile. One end of it is rigidly fixed with a self-tapping screw. The bearing profile is fixed in the suspensions. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the edges of the suspension are bent up or broken off. A self-tapping screw is screwed on the other end of the bearing profile;
transverse parts are sawn and fixed. A cross connector (crab) is used to attach them. The result of the work is a steel lattice with cells of 50x60 cm.

After checking the frame for strength, wiring and communication lines are laid. Electrical wires must be laid in a PVC plastic tube rigidly fixed to the floor slab.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

To fix the plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite large in size and weight. The work begins with the installation of a whole slab in one of the corners. Installation of gypsum board is carried out in rows. Each subsequent row is fastened with an offset of 100 cm or 120 cm, depending on the choice of the fastening direction. The last row is trimmed so that the cut edge faces the wall.

When plastering the frame with plasterboard, you must adhere to the following rules:

the joints of drywall sheets should be located only on the frame, otherwise sagging and cracks are inevitable;
self-tapping screws must be screwed into the frame through the sheets throughout its entire area. The fixing interval should be 15 cm. The hardware hats should be sunk into the surface of the gypsum board by 1 mm. In this case, it is necessary to control the screwing process so that the screws do not break through the cardboard sheath of the plate;
leave a 2 mm gap between the fragments of the masonry. It is necessary for the thermal expansion of the material;
it is best to cut drywall with a sharp clerical knife. The cut is made on the face of the slab. After that, it moves to the edge of the table, where the excess is broken and cut off. The torn edges are leveled with a plane.

After the end of fastening the gypsum board to the frame, the quality of the work performed is checked. The protruding screws are tightened, new hardware is screwed in next to the self-tapping screws that have broken through the cardboard.

Plaster of plasterboard ceiling

Drywall itself cannot be the basis for finishing. Its surface and structure is too fragile for such a purpose. After fixing the plates, there are many seams and grooves left by the screw heads.

The technology of applying putty between sheets of gypsum board

We do drywall putty in the following sequence:

the surface of the gypsum board is cleaned of dust and small parts of gypsum. The revealed defects are eliminated. The seams are treated with a primer;
the plaster solution is kneaded. It is pressed with effort into the joints and screw holes. Over the joints, a serpyanka tape is applied and embedded in the solution. It will prevent cracking;
the leveled surface is twice treated with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary in order to strengthen not only the outer shell of the gypsum board, but also its filler;
the plasterboard is covered with a solution of starting putty. The solution is collected from the container with a narrow spatula and applied to a wide tool, with which the putty is applied to the surface with wide swinging movements. All protrusions are immediately smoothed out;
priming of the hardened starting putty is carried out. After the soil has dried, a finishing putty solution is applied, which removes all irregularities;
the surface is treated with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. The quality of grinding and polishing is determined by the type of finish. For painting, the surface must be leveled with jewelry precision;
the ceiling is cleaned of dust and covered with a primer. After that, he is ready to apply the finishing cladding, which can be used as paint, wallpaper or tiles;
connection and fixing of lighting devices, fans and various sensors is carried out. The joints between the drywall and the wall are closed with skirting boards. If a wide plinth is glued to the wall 5 cm from the false ceiling, then it will serve as a good basis for attaching the backlight in the form of an LED strip.

It is known how to make a plasterboard ceiling on your own, it is important to consistently complete all stages of work.

Photo gallery of finished plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is a finishing material consisting of two layers of thick cardboard and a core filled with gypsum mixed with other fillers. The combination of lightness and resistance to external influences makes the material convenient for finishing ceilings. A classic single-level plasterboard ceiling is relatively easy to make, this requires the participation of at least two people and minimal knowledge of construction technologies.

Advantages and disadvantages

Versatility: with the base obtained from this material, you can carry out finishing work in different directions.
Decent heat and sound insulation, the ability to improve these characteristics with additional extensions.
Ease of embedding lighting fixtures.
Wires and other lines of communication and infrastructure are easily hidden under such a ceiling.

It is worth considering some of the difficulties that will haunt a person working with such material.

There is a need for high-quality processing of seams.
Alone, some of the work is difficult to carry out without experience, the help of another person will be useful.
Even small errors in calculations can lead to cracks and deformation of the structure.
The ceiling loses some of its height.

Necessary materials

Drywall (gypsum plasterboard) and metal profiles are the main materials that are used when finishing the ceiling in the way described in the article. They have a number of varieties, their choice depends on the specific needs of the owner of the house and the characteristics of the room.

Table # 1. Varieties of drywall used in the decoration of residential premises.

View	Usage	Surface color
	Creation of ceilings in living rooms, corridors, and other places that do not experience specific influences.	Grey
	Kitchens and bathrooms. Despite the originally intended moisture protection, this drywall requires an additional waterproof finish.	Green
	The surface layers are made from cellulose waste paper. Used where additional strength is required.	Differs

The width of the drywall is standardized and is 120 cm. The length varies between 200-300 cm, that is, there is a material on the market with three different length characteristics. The thickness varies between 6.5 mm and 12.5 mm.

Also, drywall differs in the type of edge. It can be straight, refined, rounded, semicircular.

Drywall prices

drywall

The ceiling frame is made up of two types of metal profiles and additional fasteners.

Table 2. Materials for plasterboard ceiling installation.

Material	Purpose
	Framing the perimeter of the ceiling
	Arrangement of the frame along and across the length of the ceiling according to its area
	Fixes the main profiles to the ceiling
	Bonds longitudinal and transverse profiles

The following auxiliary materials and tools will come in handy for the work:

Calculations and markup

First, the lowest corner of the rough ceiling in the room is searched for. From this corner, the distance is marked at which the ceiling from the gypsum board will be located. The minimum distance between the rough and plasterboard ceilings is 5 cm, but if additional communications, ventilation, bases of heavy lighting devices run in the interceiling space, then the distance can increase to 10-30 cm.

Laser Level Prices

laser level

From the point marked in the corner, using a level, a line of the same height is drawn along the perimeter of the room. For small rooms, a water or bubble level is suitable, but in spacious rooms their use can lead to errors, so it is better to use a laser level. The line is marked with a paint cord: it is pulled between two points at the corners of the wall and released, and a bright straight line remains on the surface.

Further, on the rough ceiling, the place of attachment of the longitudinal profiles is marked. The distance between them should be a multiple of the width of the gypsum board. Since its width is standardized at 120 cm, the best option would be to mount profiles every 40 cm: two profiles at the edges of the drywall sheet and one at its center. On the lines drawn along the length of the ceiling, the places of fastening of the suspensions are marked with an interval of 40-50 centimeters.

Drywall is also marked in accordance with the adopted plan for its installation: will it be cut or not, it will be laid in a longitudinal or transverse way, etc.

Wireframe creation

Holes are drilled on a line drawn around the perimeter with a step of no more than 40 cm. A UD profile is brought to the wall and attached to it using dowels-nails.

Then the suspensions are installed. They only fix the main longitudinal ceiling profiles and are not needed for the cross members. Fastening of each suspension to the ceiling is carried out using two dowel-nails (if, when drilling the suspension, a void is found in the slab, then a wedge anchor is used for reliable fixation, which is hammered in with a hammer).

Important! Dowels for fastening suspensions should have as large a spacer as possible, otherwise they will not be securely fixed in the ceiling concrete and will fall into its empty spaces.

Before installing ceiling CD-profiles, you need to determine a flat horizontal plane over the entire area of \ u200b \ u200bwork. This is done using stretched nylon threads. In order for the thread to tighten reliably and not bend, you can pick it up with suspension fasteners, which for this are bent upwards and thereby maintain its (thread) tension.

The longitudinal CD-profile is first attached between the opposite UD-constructions (inserted into their grooves). Further, it is sequentially fixed in suspensions. The "whiskers" of the suspensions are lowered, wrapped around the profile and screwed on with small self-tapping screws.

The transverse profiles are located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. They are attached with their ends to the UD-structure, and along their length they are fixed with longitudinal profiles using single-level connectors. Connectors are inserted into each joint of longitudinal and transverse profiles, clasp the joints and screwed on from all sides using self-tapping screws.

The installation of transverse profiles may not be required in cases where the ceiling is set up in a very small room - for example, in a combined bathroom or a small corridor.

On a note! CD-profiles and drywall should not fit end-to-end into UD profiles. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the structures to ensure air exchange between the main space of the room and the inner ceiling. Also, these gaps will compensate for the thermal deformation of the metal and drywall sheets.

The resulting frame must be pulled down on each side. This will stretch all the hangers to their full length and allow you to find irregularities in the plane of the frame.

Working with drywall

Before installing the drywall, the ceiling space is finalized. All wires are placed in corrugated tubes, the contours of the installation of lighting devices are outlined and holes for them are cut out in the drywall, ventilation is carried out and insulation is laid. Below is an algorithm of actions and recommendations for installing a gypsum board are given.

Table 3. Installation of drywall sheets step by step.

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	Sheets are cut for easy attachment. It is important to cut them so that the dimensions of the resulting blocks correspond to the size of the cells of the frame. All edges are processed and leveled.
	It is good if the sheet is supported by an assistant during its attachment to the frame. But if the work has to be done alone, then you can use the spacer installed between the floor and the sheet - it will press the plasterboard block to the ceiling.
	Before starting work, the profiles are sealed with tape, which provides additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
	GKL blocks are attached with their edges to the frame using self-tapping screws. The distance from the edge to the place of the gypsum board fastener should be 2 cm. The interval between the screws is 10-15 cm. Their caps go deep into the material by a few millimeters.
	There are two ways to install drywall: transverse and longitudinal. The longitudinal method assumes the coincidence of the long side of the sheet with the longitudinal profile, with transverse laying they are perpendicular to each other.
	First, sheets are attached adjacent to the corners of the wall, then along the perimeter, and at the end, sheets are attached in the center of the ceiling.
	The screws must enter the metal profile to a depth of at least one centimeter. If drywall of large thickness is used, then it is worth considering this requirement and selecting self-tapping screws of the appropriate length.
	If the size of the drywall sheet exceeds the size of the frame cell, then fastening is necessary not only at the edges, but also at the place where the hidden frame profiles pass under it. For this, the GCR sheet is pre-marked.
	The spacing between sheets is 1-2 mm.
	The joints of drywall sections should pass along the profile and only along it.
	If the screw is unsuccessful, it is removed, and a new one is screwed in at a distance of at least 5 cm.This is due to the fact that the place of the unsuccessful fastening becomes unstable

Finishing work

After covering the entire frame with plasterboard, the structure is allowed to stand for two days. This is necessary for the material to acquire humidity and room temperature. After this period, finishing work can be carried out.

It is necessary to apply a primer to the sheets, which will give them additional protection from moisture. It is important to ensure the penetration of the primer into all joints, as they will be the most vulnerable points in the operation of the ceiling.

With the help of a spatula, the seams between the sheets are putty, for which a quick-drying gypsum mixture (Knauf Fugenfüller or its analogues) is often used. It is imperative that a reinforcing mesh be glued to all joints. If there are two factory edges at the junction, then a reinforcing mesh with a width of 80-100 mm is used. If one or both edges of the drywall are chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees, then the mesh is cut lengthwise so that it does not go beyond the plane, or a standard width mesh is used, but then you will have to putty the entire surface of the drywall by a thickness of 1-2 mm more.

Prices for gypsum mixes

gypsum mix

Note! The mesh should always be between layers of putty. Most often, such nets in rolls have an adhesive base: it is needed for ease of storage and use. Do not glue the mesh to the joints, but put putty on top. First, 60% filling of the putty is applied, then the mesh is sunk into the mixture, smoothed, and the rest of the cavity is filled.

Grooves from screws. The same "Fugenfüller" is used to seal the grooves from the screws. A narrow spatula (no more than 60-80 mm) is carried out in several directions so that the putty fills the entire recess. When the Fugenfüller is dry, it will retract - that's okay. Re-grooves can already be repaired with the usual finishing putty (Knauf Satengips, Knauf Finish, etc.).

After drying, a finishing putty is applied. Here you can use a larger tool and putty, which has a longer drying time and increases the strength of the joint. The heads of the self-tapping screws are also filled with a putty solution.

At the end, all irregularities are rubbed with sandpaper.

If the design layout requires it, after filling and leveling the surface, you can start painting, whitewashing or applying wallpaper to the ceiling. If you plan to install a multi-level ceiling, then you can start arranging its subsequent levels.

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Drywall is one of the most convenient and versatile building and finishing materials. It is widely used in the arrangement of walls, all kinds of openings, partitions and, of course, ceilings. The undoubted advantages of drywall include the fact that work with its use does not require the use of any hard-to-reach and complex tools. You can get by with a screwdriver, electric drill and various small devices in the form of a hammer, screwdrivers, etc.

Despite the simplicity and high speed of installation, structures of the most diverse complexity can be assembled from this material. It is not difficult to make a high-quality plasterboard ceiling on your own. It is enough just to understand in detail each stage of the work and you can save a significant amount on the services of third-party repairmen.

Regardless of the complexity of the future ceiling structure, work can be performed exclusively in warm and relatively dry conditions. It is recommended to install the sheets before completing the finishing device.

You should first prepare a detailed sketch of the future interior of the room, having thought over the features of the furniture and the location of the lighting devices, so that the finished lighting is as efficient and economical as possible.

Select the appropriate type of drywall sheets. They are ordinary and moisture resistant. It is recommended to pay attention to moisture-resistant sheets for residents of apartment buildings. If, due to the negligence of the neighbors living above, flooding occurs, the repair of the ceiling made of moisture-resistant plasterboard will be reduced to a relatively small restoration.

In the case of material unstable to water, the repair will have to be done again. In private homes where there is no threat of flooding, ordinary drywall will be enough. It costs significantly less than its moisture-resistant counterpart and significantly reduces the cost of repair work.

Among the advantages of drywall, it is imperative to include the ability of this material to hide even the largest defects in the base. That is, before the device, the structure does not have to be primed, painted, puttyed and generally carried out any preparation of the rough ceiling, with the exception of marking.

What do you need to install drywall?

Prepare everything you need for work in advance so as not to be distracted by it in the future. In the process of preparation, pay attention to such indicators as the volume and complexity of the upcoming work, as well as the available funds. For example, if ordinary home repairs are planned, performed at intervals of 5-10 years, there will be no point in buying expensive professional grade appliances. In general, focus on personal needs and available money.

Plasterboard Ceiling Installation Tools

Preparation of markings for ceiling mounting

Correctly executed markings are a guarantee of obtaining a smooth and correct plasterboard ceiling in all respects. It is better to spend more time preparing than spending it in the future fixing defects. First, a plan for the placement of profiles, sheets and lamps directly is drawn up on paper or in a special computer program, and then simply transferred to the base.

Determine in advance the distance between the existing ceiling and the plasterboard structure under construction. If only luminaires are to be installed, a distance of 80-100 mm will suffice. If ventilation ducts and other communications will be hidden with the help of drywall, the height should be increased to 200 mm or even more. Focus on your specific conditions.

The problem with "native" ceilings is that they are almost never even. And in order for the future plasterboard construction to have no distortions and differences, special attention should be paid to the markup.

Measure from anywhere on the base down the wall at the desired distance. Arm yourself with a building level and, focusing on the deferred point, apply the same marks to the rest of the walls of the room. It is important that they are located strictly at the same level. Next, you just need to connect the marks with a solid line. For this, it is convenient to use a rail or any other suitable device.

Also, the markup involves drawing straight parallel lines. They need to be drawn along the width and length of the base. These marks will be used to mount suspensions and metal profiles. The traditional width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm. Thus, parallel lines are drawn at a distance of 400 or 600 mm from each other. The markup should be such that the joints of adjacent sheets fall exactly on the metal profile. This will ensure the most reliable fixation of the material.

Ceiling Frame Assembly Guide

The frame is assembled using a number of special materials and fixtures.

Materials for mounting the frame

First, the guides are fixed on the base. Mount these profiles according to the markup created in the previous step. Fixation is done with dowels. It is necessary to fix it every 50-70 cm. Do not forget to control the horizontal installation of the guides using a building level.

Attach the hangers for the main CD profiles. In the case of fixing to a concrete ceiling, use dowels. If the base is made of wood, fixing is done with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to fasten it every 95-100 cm.

Take a strong thread and pull it along the markings, flush with the guides. On a tight thread fasten the main profiles to the guides. For this, screws are used. Make sure the installation is horizontal with the help of the building level you already know.

In the event that the wall of the room has a length exceeding the length of one main profile, you will have to dock the two products. For this, special connectors are intended. You can buy them at a hardware store or hardware store. Transverse metal profiles are connected with longitudinal ones using the so-called. "Crabs" and self-tapping screws every 40-50 cm.

After assembling the frame, be sure to check for evenness and rigidity.... If insufficient rigidity is found, tighten the fasteners more. At the same stage, route the wiring and install the fixtures for the lighting fixtures. The wires must not be laid in the mounting profiles, they can only run over the structure.

Sheet Fastening Guide

To complete this stage of the work, you will need directly sheets of material, special fasteners in the form of self-tapping plasterboard screws with threads up to 25 mm, as well as at least one assistant. The material has a fairly large weight, so it will be very inconvenient to hold it only due to your efforts.

Take a sharp knife, or better yet, a butt planer, and remove a chamfer about 2/3 of its thickness from the end of the drywall sheet... No special care is required here. You don't need perfect joints because in the future, the surface will still be putty and all the irregularities will hide.

Use self-tapping screws to fasten drywall to the main profiles. The heads of the mountings should be slightly buried in the material. The long sides of the individual sheets should converge in the middle of the profiles installed in the longitudinal direction. The technology prohibits the creation of such fasteners in which the joints of the ends will sag. Therefore, under such joints, parts of the transverse mounting profile that are suitable along the length are necessarily fixed.

Plasterboard must be laid so that along the longitudinal sides they dock with some displacement. The specific value of such a displacement is not established, the main thing is that there are no points of convergence of 4 corners at one point on the ceiling.

Installation procedure for the second and subsequent levels of the ceiling

Arrangement of the second level of plasterboard ceiling can be performed in different ways. This material is versatile and easy to process. With its help, you can create a wide variety of designs and design options.

Preliminary prepare the circuit future design on a computer or paper. After making all the required edits transfer the finished sketch to the main level of the ceiling. Fix the main profiles according to the markings made earlier... Do this so that the main part of the second level connects to the main profiles of the previous level.

Route the wires to the points where the fixtures are placed. Cut the material to the desired pattern and attach patterns to profiles using plasterboard screws. Use a strip of material of suitable width to cover the protruding portions of the part's profile. Simply moisten the drywall with water. It will get wet and soft, after which you can create the required curvilinear pattern and freely attach it to the profile.

Take a rasp and trim the edges of the structure. Seams need to be putty with the obligatory use of a reinforcing tape. Otherwise, the joints of the sheets may become cracked. Plasterboard is laid in the same order at further levels provided for by the design you have chosen.

How is an oval plasterboard ceiling mounted?

If you have such a desire, you can easily assemble a plasterboard ceiling of a neat oval shape. The device of such a system is performed according to the technology you are already familiar with, but there are also a number of certain differences that must be taken into account.

It all starts with the markup. The oval of the ceiling can be right or wrong. First you need to draw a shape. For this, you can prepare a template. In the absence of a ready-made template, you will have to spend a little more time. First, you should draw two intersecting circles on the base. The size of the future oval directly depends on the area of their intersection. So, the larger the given intersection area, the smaller the oval you get.

Mark the center of the base. If you want the oval to be located at some offset from the center, retreat the desired distance from the plotted point. From the central mark, you need to retreat a certain distance in the required directions and mark the midpoints of future intersecting circles.

You can use a homemade compass to draw circles. To do this, it is enough to take a self-tapping screw, fix it in the center of the future figure, attach a wire to it, the length of which would correspond to the diameter of the circle, attach a pencil or chalk to the second end of the wire and draw a figure. Draw both circles and connect their sides with straight lines. As a result, you will get a finished oval.

At the last stage, the plasterboard ceiling is putty and the finishing is arranged at the owner's choice. Thus, there is nothing difficult in creating a plasterboard ceiling structure on your own. It is enough to follow the instructions in everything, do not deviate from the recommendations received, and no problems will arise.

Happy work!

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling

The snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious, combined with any design decoration of the room. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which neighbors and friends do not have. Modern materials and technologies make it possible to solve this problem, gradually relegating whitewashing and painting to the background.

Craftsmen offer various methods of decorating the ceiling space. The following types of ceiling are most in demand:

Tension- the most common technology for decorating the ceiling space. Its essence is in fastening synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film to plastic or aluminum profiles. In this case, it is desirable to have a tensioning material without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. Therefore, independent work on this method of decorating the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous method of ceiling decoration. The difference in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beams with wooden floors or, as in attics, truss systems) and the type of material for lining the ceiling - gypsum plasterboard, wooden, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber plates are attached. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack. The ceiling surface is assembled from aluminum or steel plates, treated with several layers of varnish. Installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling decoration is similar in design to a suspended ceiling. The only difference is that instead of gypsum board, mirror plates are used. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the height of the ceiling. Such decoration of the upper part of the rooms was in vogue 30-40 years ago. Nowadays, it is very difficult to find a mirrored ceiling;

Hemming. This is a simplified version of a false ceiling. The ceiling surface of this structure is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are not mounted on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal frame, fixed directly on the floor slabs. Such ceilings do not have the ability to make hidden wiring of various communications and use built-in LED lamps;

Glue- the simplest and most affordable option for finishing the ceiling space. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square polystyrene panels (another name is styrofoam) with a size of 50x50 cm to the ceiling surface.The tiles can be smooth or embossed, painted in one color or with imitation wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or with a laminated protective film and etc .;

Plastered. Using this technology, the ceiling is primed, putty, and then covered with decorative plaster. Of the advantages of such a ceiling, it should be noted its durability and low cost, there are two minuses: high labor intensity and the standard appearance of a painted ceiling with simple painting;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles 60x10, 120x60 cm in size, which professional builders call cassettes (plates). They are made of glass or pressed mineral wool. Attached to the ceiling with special frames. The cassettes have a varied design, which allows you to implement the most unusual ideas for interior design in any room of an apartment (house).

Plasterboard false ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, the tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity is becoming increasingly evident while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect. The most beautiful design of the ceiling space is obtained when using suspended structures with sewn drywall. Such a technological solution for finishing the ceiling allows:

hide ceiling problems (skew, cracks, chips, visible joint, etc.);
hide various kinds of wiring and cables;
do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling slab, which saves on labor costs and materials when carrying out these operations.

A plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of a metal frame in the form of a lattice, attached to the ceiling with hangers, and on the walls - to a metal profile. The cladding sheets, mainly drywall, are attached to the assembled grating with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL suspended ceilings have many advantages:

long service life - 20-30 years;
high strength - does not collapse when pressed or scratched;
working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
installation of the frame is within the power of any novice builder;
good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics with the help of insulation;
does not require special care - sometimes it is enough to walk with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
the broadest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be cut out figuratively, but also get bent curved shapes after soaking and drying with warm air;
availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
environmental friendliness - it is not toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore it can be installed in any premises of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
ease of installation of any kind of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceiling has its drawbacks:

constant repainting is needed every 7-8 years of operation;
steals the height of the room;
requires finishing of gypsum board joints, indentations from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
becomes unusable when a small amount of water seeps from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
collapses with minor errors in calculations;
there is no possibility of installation alone - at least 2 people are required.

As you can see from the above pros and cons, choosing a false ceiling allows you to solve many problems with minor difficulties. However, stretch ceilings are more popular with customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - drywall or stretch ceiling

A comparative analysis of what is better - a stretch ceiling or drywall for decorating the ceiling space, shows:

The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers in their passports indicate a 10-year service life (it will actually last about 15 years), and the gypsum board can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint it regularly;
In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceiling are approximately equal;

Important: if necessary, improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used with suspended ceilings.

In terms of strength, the advantage of a suspended ceiling is that it does not collapse from the slightest touch of a sharp object or a concentrated impact of small force, unlike PVC film;
In terms of elasticity, drywall and stretch ceiling have parity - surprisingly, but the film can withstand a load of up to 100 kg / m 2, which is clearly manifested when the apartment is flooded by neighbors from above. In the experiment, the PVC ceiling with an area of 6 m 2 withstood 500 liters of water and only after 2 hours small streams of water began to appear due to the stratification of the film;
In terms of the possibilities to turn design ideas into reality, a stretch ceiling gives a significant head start to a suspended structure, especially in texture and color scheme.

When comparing the cost of installation, the stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If we compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of installation of gypsum plasterboard you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. for a full cycle of work, and for a stretch ceiling, prices start at 700 rubles.

When performing work on the plasterboard ceiling on your own, the costs will decrease and will be 700-800 rubles / m2 (the price also includes transport costs for the delivery of material in the amount of 200 rubles / m2, this figure may change in any direction, but insignificantly).

It is also necessary to take into account the speed of work. The stretch ceiling is installed in a day; it will not be possible to mount the suspended ceiling in these terms.

Conclusion: in some respects, the stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if the issue is considered in the long term, professionals advise installing a suspended ceiling - it is cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed?

The installation of a false ceiling steals 5-10 cm of its height in a room (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed plasterboard is always caused by the installation of hidden lamps). Therefore, in "Khrushchevs", with their small dimensions both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), it is not recommended to mount a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living quarters and the design approach to interior design, a single-level installation of plasterboard on the ceiling with a height of 2.7 m, two-level with an apartment height of 3.0 m and multi-level with very high ones, 3.3 m is considered optimal. and more, indoors.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work, you should buy the necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. The exact number of profile, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can be found only after completing part of the preparatory work, which, in turn, requires the appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let's run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials before the calculations performed, but relying on them, i.e. about the fifth stage of the preparatory work, we will tell you before they start.

In order to have an idea of the cost of repairs, for persons who install a false ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Name of materials	Quantity	Price per one.	Price
Drywall 3000х1200х6.5	6 sheets	360	2160
Profile UD (PN) 28 * 27 * 3000	7 pcs.	85	595
Profile CD (PS) 66 * 27 * 3000	21 pcs.	100	2100
Direct suspension	126 pcs.	10	1260
Mount "crab"	55 pcs.	12	660
Self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm	1 pack. 1000 pcs.	300	300
Self-tapping dowels 6 * 60	266 pcs. (3 pack.)	230	690
Screws "bug"	560 pcs. (3 pack.)	100	300
Soil for gypsum board	5 l	100	100
Plaster putty	5 Kg	200	200
Mesh "serpyanka"	2 units	50	100
Damper tape	20 m		550
Water based paint	1 bucket 9 l	1900	1900
Electric wires	19 m	80	1520
Electric bulbs	11 pcs.	420	460

Attention: in some retail chains the "crab" mount is indicated by a hanger, which does not correspond to its function.

Thus, the total costs are RUB 13,895. The cost of finishing 1 m 2 of the ceiling is 655 rubles. This is just the materials.

You will need to spend part of the family budget to buy or rent the necessary tool. Here, too, the numbers are not small.

Tools.

Tool name	Rent price	Purchase price
Rotary hammer with attachments	300	2450
Screwdriver	200	3630
"Bulgarian"	200	2140
Laser level	300	2746
Hydro level	do it yourself
Plumb line	do it yourself
Roulette	No	76
Level	No	100
Construction knife	No	78
	No	92
Chopping cord (can be done)	No	55
Faux fur roller	No	29
Cuvette	No	23
Narrow spatula (up to 10 cm)	No	100
Wide spatula (30-35 cm)	No	225

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of gypsum board and surface finishing. False ceiling installation begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

preparation of the premises;
drafting a project;
calculation of the amount of material;
ceiling and wall markings;
purchase of materials.

Attention: on many sites that consider how to attach drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of various kinds are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the information posted. Examples of inaccuracies:

offer to mount drywall only on longitudinal CD-profiles, moreover, fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

incorrectly indicate the pitch between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
it is recommended to retreat from the wall by 10 cm for the first line of the frame;
place suspensions at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Room preparation

In a new building, all preparation of the premises for the installation of the ceiling is reduced to cleaning it from debris. In a habitable apartment, you must:

Remove all furniture from the room to ensure unhindered access to any point on the ceiling;
If it is impossible to complete the first point, close the chairs, sofa or cabinet with plastic wrap from dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls for dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared for repeated movement of pieces of furniture from place to place, to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and to clean chairs and a sofa, because dust tends to sneak under the film, finding the smallest holes;
Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (mildew), soot.

Drafting a project

To carry out design work, you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil (ballpoint pen) and a double notebook sheet, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. The length of each wall is measured with a tape measure, excluding protrusions and niches. If they are in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is needed to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions are applied to a certain scale on a notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A diagram of the passage of the frame is being developed, as well as the attachment points for the suspensions. The following points are important here:

Longitudinal profiles can be fixed in 40 or 60 cm increments due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often the profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for gypsum boards with a thickness of up to 9.5 mm inclusive, a step of 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, and heavier ones - 40 cm. Why these values? These numbers are multiples of the standard width of a drywall sheet of 120 cm.
Transverse profiles are attached only in 50 cm increments (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum sheet;
With a distance between the longitudinal profiles of 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling hangers, and for the transverse profile there are enough "crabs". With a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. The marking of the passage of the electrical wiring and the fixing points of the fixtures is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the one in the photo below.

Calculation of the amount of material

To illustrate the method of calculating materials, we take the real dimensions of the room, and not simplified ones: in length - 5.6 m, in width - 3.8 m, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a projection of 15 cm.

1. Determine the footage of the guide strips (PN), size 28 × 27 mm - attached to the walls under the ceiling, serve as a support for the frame:

We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
We find the number of the PS profile: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pcs., Where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pieces - the number of strips required for ceiling mounting. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the number of ceiling profile (PS) with a cross section of 60 × 27 mm - from which a lattice is assembled for installing gypsum board. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install a gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the step for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, transverse - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and constantly removes problem areas. Suspended ceilings were constantly faced with the fact that vibration violated the integrity of the drywall seams: they were covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, experienced GKL builders glued wallpaper or applied decorative plaster. Today, the seams are covered with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

The calculation will be carried out according to the formula: K = P / L - 1, where:

K is the number of profile lines;
P is the length of the room;
L - step size (0.6 m).

Substitute numerical values into the formula and get the quantity:

Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile is 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length of 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the best option is 3 m. Then you will have to buy 23 strips (68.6 / 3).

3. The length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, so they will have to be increased. In our example, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will occur in the crab, since the step of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of "crabs" is equal to the number of intersections of the longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, where:

S is the number of direct suspensions;
D is the number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers in the formula, we get that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6 × 60 mm (8 × 80 mm) for installing guide profiles and fixing hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm, for fixing 1 suspension you need 2 pcs. In total, you need 266 pcs.

7. Self-tapping screw "bug" LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., With crab - 4 pcs., With suspension - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall 3.5x25 mm. They attach the plasterboard to the crate. You will need 1 package of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased with a length of 3 m in order not to make inserts (with a length of gypsum board of 2.5 m, you will have to cut a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, 6 sheets will be required ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 numbers are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Ceiling and wall marking

In a new building, with the help of a hydro or laser level, the horizon line is beaten off. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. At least 5 cm downward is measured from it (when installing built-in lamps - 10 cm) and a ceiling line is formed. For those who first come across such concepts and methods of finding the ceiling line, we recommend that you look through the article "". Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with a laid floor, there is no need to beat off the horizon line - its role will be successfully performed by the floor. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydro level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling installation will go.

On it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks are placed on the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles. A similar operation is carried out on the opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which a mark is bounced along the ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with crayon), along which the profile will pass. If everything is done correctly, you get a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, initially the markings are placed on the wall with a window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but with a step of 50 cm. The points of attachment of the plumb lines are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall with a step of 50 cm. It can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchase of materials

This subsection is discussed above, in the "Materials and tools" section.

Assembling the frame

Plasterboard ceiling construction begins with the installation of the supporting frame. We will analyze step by step how to assemble it.

Step 1. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is firmly pressed against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the line of the ceiling. Marks are drilled through the metal in the wall for mounting the dowels.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the subsequent ones - every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place the dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2. Holes are drilled according to the marks, dowels are driven into them. A damper (sealing) tape is glued to the reverse side of the profile to prevent sound waves from entering the ceiling from the wall, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible bending of the ceiling at the junction of the two guides, experienced builders advise to strengthen the joints. To do this, inside the profiles, at the junction, a plate of tin, plastic or plywood is wound up and attached to at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed along the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The overwhelming majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With such a frame arrangement, large parts of the corners of the gypsum board, adjacent to the wall, remain completely loose. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints are torn and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3. Direct hangers are installed along the ceiling, across the drawn line. In this case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle of the fastener. They can be fixed with self-tapping dowels (2 pcs. For each suspension) or with anchor bolts, which is more reliable. After fixing the suspensions, their mustaches, with their hands or with pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4. With the help of a fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. Such an operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - under its weight, the frame tends to bend down. The thread (line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally fixed on the whiskers of the suspensions (2-3 are enough), bent upwards at the desired height.

Step 5. Longitudinal ceiling profiles are mounted. First, the PS-profile is inserted into the groove of the PN-profile at the place of the mark and is attached to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched line and a level. The protruding whiskers of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6. At the intersection of the frame, the “crab” mount is screwed to the longitudinal profile with the “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7. Fastened with transverse profiles, ends in a "crab", in the middle with a suspension.

Heat and sound insulation

If there are noisy neighbors or the last floor on top, the ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. Inside the frame, it is fastened with the so-called "fungus" - a special fastening system.

Plasterboard installation

To mount a drywall ceiling with your own hands, step by step instructions are given below:

Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the gypsum board to adapt to new conditions and take a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored only horizontally;
GKL is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a recess is cut out for the ledge;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of plasterboard, only the last sheet is trimmed. In even rows, the first sheet is always shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is adjusted to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

With a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, a chamfer is removed along the edge of the cut;

The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall - it is necessary for the exchange of air (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is screwed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones every 20 cm. The gypsum boards are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to heat the hardware heads into drywall by hand, using a Phillips screwdriver, which will avoid twisting them. At the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the screws are screwed in "out of order", not against each other.

Final finishing

After the installation of the suspended ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: the finishing of the drywall. The appearance of the ceiling space depends on the quality of its implementation. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

sealing of connecting seams and traces of hardware heads;
puttying of the entire surface of the ceiling;
cutting holes for lamps;
painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
installation of lamps.

Sealing of seams

The joints of the sheets are sealed with a reinforcing tape, "serpyanka". Gypsum putty is rubbed into the seams through it. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and the head of the screws.

Plasterboard filling

In many recommendations for finishing gypsum plasterboard, a prerequisite is indicated - the application of a primer before putty. However, a primer is not needed for modern putty mixtures (Vetonit LR +, KR, JS, Osnovit Econcilk, Plitonit KP, Kreps KR). The instructions for GKL putty can be studied in the article "", paragraph 2.5. "Plasterboard putty".

Cutting holes for fixtures

Using the diagram drawn at the beginning of the ceiling installation, the locations of the fixtures are marked on the drywall sheets. Holes are drilled with a removable crown for a hammer drill or electric drill. The crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. In the crown there are sets of cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with water emulsion

How to make a backlight

Without design solutions for lighting, the device of a suspended ceiling practically loses its meaning - the same effect from a simply painted ceiling (except for the ability to hide some floor defects - in this case, a simple ceiling repair is several times cheaper).

In practice, various backlighting options are used:

Contour - the light is directed from bottom to top, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, along the entire perimeter of the room;
Directional - the streams of light are parallel to the surface of the ceiling. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine inside the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
Standard - the plafonds are installed in the gypsum board, the lamps shine down;
Curly - all lamps shine in different directions, creating an unusual light effect;
Spot - the most complex, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with ordinary LED lamps, miniature LEDs are mounted, indicating a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself without the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - to come up with a ceiling lighting for a particular room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. There are no particular difficulties in this design of the ceiling space. The order of work is not much different from the technological process for the installation of one level:

plan in advance and draw a level layout diagram on paper;
transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the levels of fastening drywall and bearing profiles;
mount the frame for the first level;
bend the side profile to the selected pattern;
install the side frame;
mount the frame of the second level;
dissolve the wiring under the lamps;
cut drywall for both levels;
attach plasterboard on both levels;
cut and then bend the gypsum board strip for installation on the side frame;
close the box;
finish the installed ceiling;
cut holes for lamps, and then paint the ceiling;
install lamps.

Thus, the installation of a false ceiling is straightforward. There is only one problem - such work cannot be done alone.

Peculiarities

Plasterboard is a material used in construction for cladding, installation of partitions, ceiling cladding, mainly in rooms with a dry and non-humid environment. It is a sheet of two dense layers of construction paper and a filler made of thickened gypsum with various additional fillers.

Drywall is a unique environmentally friendly and clean finishing material.

This material does not lend itself to combustion and does not emit toxins, maintains a favorable atmosphere in the room. The standard size of any drywall is 120 centimeters wide..

The gypsum plasterboard is fixed to the facing surface with gypsum mastic or on the battens using metal screws. Being an inexpensive, convenient and practical material, drywall for several years has been one of the main elements in construction work, which has been preferred by many builders.

Previously, gypsum plasterboard was used exclusively for leveling the surface, but after some modifications and the appearance of a wide range of gypsum plasterboards, they began to be used as structural elements. In particular, the designers liked the material for the creative possibilities it provided them.

Drywall is not only able to level your ceiling, but also radically change your interior... The ceiling of an unusual shape with lighting, wall panels, a fireplace, an arch, a shelf, a partition and much more are excellent solutions for highlighting areas of a living room, which will make it more functional.

Pros and cons

Before deciding on a finishing material for a living space, you need to find out all the advantages and disadvantages of drywall sheets. Having the knowledge and subtleties of this material, you can insure yourself in the future against disappointment and all kinds of unpleasant situations during the repair process. The use of drywall in the design of the ceiling has both positive and negative qualities. Let's analyze each of them.

Advantages:

Simple assembly... When installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, there is no need to wait for the mortar to dry, given the dimensions of the living space and even the meager repair skills - finishing is carried out no more than three days.
Low weight material.
Wide range of shapes- with the help of drywall, you have the opportunity to embody multi-level structures of various shapes with unusual bends.
High ductility- when using water, drywall takes the shape you need.
Has a high level of noise and heat insulation... Using this material, you will increase the insulation performance of the room.

Communication camouflage... Easy and quick production of various structures in which you can hide a wire, cable, pipe, air duct and various types of communications.
Plasterboard surfaces can be used for further painting, pasting any kind of wallpaper, facing with ceramics and tiles.
Wide choice of materials... The market makes it possible to choose the right plasterboard of the required thickness with different properties of use. For example, a moisture-resistant material is used for cladding in a room with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom).
Lighting system... Plasterboard ceiling is often used as a frame for any type of lighting.

With all the advantages of this material, you should be prepared for certain disadvantages:

Reducing the height of the room. Suspended ceiling structures are taken away by the order of five centimeters in height due to the use of additional embossed profiles, respectively, are contraindicated in low rooms.
Cracking. If the drywall is incorrectly installed at the junction, cracks may appear in the future.
To preserve the material in its original form, certain conditions are necessary, namely, it is forbidden to store drywall in rooms with high humidity and lack of heating.

It is not advisable to use drywall for ceiling cladding in a room where there is a high probability of being flooded from above, since the drywall sheet swells under the influence of water, the mass becomes larger and the structures may collapse.
When installing plasterboard shelves, it is not recommended to fix massive elements on them, since the plaster "filling" is easy to damage.
At the end of the installation, it is extremely difficult to carry out extraordinary finishing work, to mask the joints of the gypsum sheets and the cracks that have arisen.
Fragility. Plasterboard sheets can break during careless transportation, installation and operation, so you need to be extremely careful and accurate when repairing or building ceiling partitions. It is also recommended to refrain from using drywall where it is planned to install a heavy structure, for example, a massive chandelier. In this case, use a double layer of drywall for finishing. This will ensure a secure fit.

Views

After evaluating all the possible advantages and minor, but important to note the disadvantages, you need to decide on a specific type of drywall that will meet your specific needs.

So, in the repair of residential premises, there are several types of drywall. They have different properties. It is worth focusing on them.

GKL- gypsum sheets, which are faced on both sides with light and soft cardboard fixed to the surface of the gypsum. The standard size of such a sheet varies and ranges from 2000 to 3000 millimeters in length. The width usually remains unchanged - 1200 millimeters. Thickness - 12 or 9 millimeters. For living quarters, it is recommended to resort to sheets with a thickness of no more than 9 millimeters. to loosen the weight of ceiling structures.

It is widely used in the implementation of design and construction ideas for the repair and installation of walls and partitions. In the manufacture of cardboard used in gray shades.

GKLO- fire resistant plasterboard sheets. This type of material, surprisingly, is not used in residential premises, but is widespread in industrial buildings, for finishing the air duct and communication shaft.

GKLV- moisture resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used in rooms with high humidity, namely, in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet with exhaust ventilation and protection of the front surface with a waterproofing compound, waterproof paint, primer or ceramic tile finish. In the manufacture, cardboard is used in green tones.

GKLVO- mixed type gypsum plasterboards, which are highly resistant to fire and moisture, combine all the characteristics of the previously mentioned types.

GVL- gypsum fiber sheets. During production, they are not fixed with cardboard, like the previous ones. Gypsum is hardened with special high-quality cellulose waste paper. This type of sheet has high strength and heat resistance to fire and flame. It corresponds to the standard size of an ordinary sheet with a thickness of more than 6 or 10 millimeters. GVLV - moisture resistant gypsum fiber sheets.

Arched drywall sheets have the smallest thickness of the previously presented types - less than six millimeters. It is used to reproduce various types of structures with different radii of curves and curved lines.

Facade plasterboard sheets covered with a layer of fiberglass, have a standard thickness of 12 millimeters. In the manufacture of cardboard used in yellow shades.

Insulated gypsum plasterboard- modification material, in which polystyrene foam blocks are fixed to standard sheets with an adhesive base. The insulated layers reach 60 millimeters, which makes it possible to significantly increase the insulating parameter of the wall.

Vinyl Coated Plasterboard- another modification of our time, which increases its versatility. The set of gypsum boards has been expanded and today you can purchase a profile with a decorated vinyl covering, which will allow you to install walls with a ready-made color scheme.

With the help of such a gypsum board, you can make both single-level and multi-level ceilings.

Forms

The use of gypsum plasterboard sheets to give a flat surface to walls and ceilings during repairs has long become widespread. Making complex structures and decorating the ceiling has become available using a standard plasterboard sheet. Such ceilings create interesting lighting solutions and become real works of art.

There are many options for using drywall forms, and for this it is not at all necessary to turn to the services of a builder or decorator. However, there are some conditions for the use of decorative forms on ceiling cladding that you need to familiarize yourself with.

Rectangular plasterboard ceiling- This is a universal option, as it is suitable for all types of premises. It does an excellent job with its function - the correction of the shape of the room. For example, a rectangular ceiling is designed for a narrow space; it will visually expand the walls.

Shaped plasterboard square ceiling- this is a kind of rectangle, but it is found mainly in residential premises with appropriate characteristics. For this type of room, a multi-level ceiling with a circle in the center of the structure is recommended.

A round ceiling is the best option for highlighting the center of the living space, for example, where a table, sofa or place with the greatest congestion should be.

Oval and curved ceiling made of drywall visually enlarges the room, this type of ceiling is used for unobtrusive zoning of space, regardless of its size and shape.

Abstract or geometric volumetric ceiling from drywall - it can be the shape of a flower or a geometric figure, serves solely to add decorativeness and originality to the living space.

Project

To design a complex multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you must resort to a specialized computer program, it will calculate the recommended amount of material.

In this article, we will consider a single-level ceiling structure without complex decor. The creation of single-level ceilings does not imply the development of a complex project.

It will not be difficult to calculate it at home, the only nuance in this project that cannot be ignored is how the lighting devices will be located so that during installation the lamps do not coincide with the location of the supporting metal profiles.

For clarity and approximate calculation schemes, let's take a room measuring 3 by 6 meters as an example:

The first on the priority list is to calculate the perimeter of the required room, in this case P = 6 + 6 + 3 + 3 = 18 meters. This is the required number of ceiling profile guides. Be prudent and purchase a small stock in advance in case difficulties arise during installation. Do not forget that often the walls in living quarters are not equal to each other, in this case, focus on the value that is greater.

Then it is necessary to calculate the required volume for the load-bearing ceiling profiles. This device is very important. As an example, let's take a gap of 50 centimeters long - the distance at which the profiles will be fixed one after another. When the gypsum plasterboard is fixed along the length of the room, the size of a standard sheet is 2500 mm, therefore, the boundaries fall on the supporting elements of the profile.

So, we substitute our parameters and do not forget that 6 m = 600 cm, therefore, 600: 50 = 12. Twelve pieces is the required number of a profile.

The second option is to place drywall sheets across the width of the room. In this case, the gap should be sixty centimeters long: 600: 60 = 10. Ten pieces is the recommended profile number.

The next step involves calculating the number of suspensions. The hangers are fixed to the bearing profiles for a gap of sixty centimeters long. Let's take a three meter long profile as an example. Accordingly, 300: 60 = 5. Five pieces - the required number of suspensions. There are twelve bearing ceiling profiles at our disposal, therefore, 12 * 5 = 60.

At the last stage, the required volume of crabs is calculated - cruciform elements for fixing the frame structure. In our case, it is recommended to purchase 24 crabs, in other words, twice as many as the profiles for the ceiling, calculated in the second stage.

Draw up your drawings carefully to make your work easier in the future.

Equipment and materials

An extremely important stage in the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is, of course, the preparation of all the necessary materials and tools.

So, to work with drywall sheets you need:

guide profiles;
ceiling profiles - do not give preference to a cheaper material, as a thinner material is used in the manufacture, which can lead to sagging;
rather important device - U-shaped suspension;
profile connectors;
fasteners - dowels, anchors;
gypsum plasterboard sheets - the ceiling is usually installed from sheets, the thickness of which reaches 9 millimeters, with a larger size there is a risk of some difficulties (a more durable frame structure or an alternative installation technology will be required);

self-tapping screws for metal and drywall;
sealing tapes;
materials for thermal and waterproofing;
Decoration Materials;
jigsaw and scissors for metal, hammer;
tape measure, level - it is recommended to use two different levels (the first - up to a meter, the second - from two to 3 meters);
construction knife;
puncher, screwdriver;
consumables.

Mounting

Upon completion of the preparation of all the necessary tools and materials, after the development of the project, you can proceed to the most entertaining stage of the whole work - the installation of drywall, as well as the finishing that follows it.

You can hem the plasterboard on your own, without resorting to the services of professionals, but it will be useful to ask someone to help you. The filing of this material should take place in several stages.

Frame and thermal insulation

First, you need to measure all the corners of the living space using a tape measure or a level. In terms of height, we determine the shortest angle of all. We mark it 5 centimeters from the ceiling, provided that the installation of lighting devices is not planned in the future, 9 centimeters - with the planned installation.

Using a level, similar marks are indicated in other corners. Then along the walls, marks are indicated at the same level as the first mark. It is necessary to collect all the marks in one line using a long ruler or stretched cord - this is quite simple to do. Further, guide profiles are fixed to the walls.

In a large room, it is advisable to start strengthening the structure in advance at the joints of the joints. to avoid displacement of materials under their mass. You can sheathe the ceiling with anything. Any dense materials will fit to strengthen- plastic, plywood, which must be fixed on top of each butt joint and attached to the wall with dowels. After that, the corner joints of the profiles are fixed.

A standard drywall sheet is 120 by 250 centimeters, and therefore the ceiling profile is recommended to be screwed at a distance of 40 centimeters as the sheets will be anchored along the borders and in the middle. Next, the ceiling is marked with lines parallel to each other at a distance of 40 centimeters.

In the places of the transverse joint, it is necessary to fasten a jumper made of the same material as the profile. After that, a crab is installed - a cruciform element to strengthen the frame structure. Next, the location of the suspension is determined. The main suspension is installed 20 - 25 from the wall, the next - at a distance of 50 centimeters.

An anchor is used to fix the suspension, the usual dowel in this case is not suitable, since there is no thread and there is a possibility that the structure may not withstand. Ceiling profiles must be fixed strictly to the hangers... Start from the corner of the room. And on this, the frame structure for the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

Special attention should be paid to the installation of thermal insulation. This is a simple and straightforward process that will take a little patience. The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls. After installing the frame structure, the empty areas that have formed in the middle of the frame and the existing floor slab are filled with mineral insulation, the basis of which is fiberglass. Then you can start laying electrical communications.

There is one important nuance - built-in lighting devices can cause overheating, and it does not matter which type of lamps you prefer - energy-saving, diode or incandescent lamps. Powerful overheating will provoke a number of unpleasant consequences. Nearby wires can melt, after which, in the best case, a short circuit will occur, in the worst case, a fire will occur.

If you remove some of the insulation, this will solve the problem of overheating, but the function of the thermal insulation will be greatly reduced. In this case, it is recommended to abandon the installation of a built-in lighting system and opt for a chandelier or wall lamp.

Pay special attention to the initial preparation of drywall. He needs to lie down for a while at room temperature.... Plasterboard should be stored exclusively in a horizontal position. At the initial stage, a chamfer is removed from the drywall... In other words, it trims portions of the edges at a 45 degree angle. This procedure is necessary to ensure the reliability of further finishing work. Today, many manufacturers make sheets with finished edges.

Installation of drywall sheets starts from the corners... They are fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15 centimeters. It is customary to arrange the screws on adjacent sheets in a checkerboard pattern. Sheets are attached a little randomly... This means that the sheets do not join on the same line - this will allow the drywall to anchor more reliably. The installation of drywall is completed, the final stage is finishing.

Finishing work

After the completion of the main work on the installation of drywall construction, many are wondering what finishing work follows next. There are many variations on this theme - to paint, glue the wallpaper, use decorative putty or polyurethane elements for decorative purposes. The question is really difficult.

To begin with, the resulting plane must be made uniform - this will help hide all kinds of seams, joints and joints of sheets. In addition, if there is a question about painting or finishing with thin decorative plaster, you need to level the ceiling in any case.

Water-based and water-based paints are the most popular materials for ceiling finishing works.

Water-based paint is a paint consisting of small drops of oil that are dissolved in water. Water-based paint is a collection of small particles of different polymers, it is resistant to washing and does not have a pungent odor. Both work well for painting drywall surfaces., moreover, they have one feature - it is possible to choose a matte base. This is true for the case when there are small errors on the ceiling that remained after the putty. This will disguise them perfectly.

Gloss-based paint, on the other hand, will expose all roughness and imperfections. Its use is appropriate only when the quality of the coating is ideal, for example, pre-pasted with wallpaper. Oil-based paint is not recommended on ceilings.

Wallpapering involves two options for subsequent events - with or without painting. The choice of shade and color is something with which you need to be careful and attentive. An overly dark shade creates an atmosphere of a low, pressing ceiling, and a light shade will visually increase the height of the living space. Both options require you to take into account the existing embossed pattern on the wallpaper. It makes no sense to glue the embossed wallpaper so that it gets lost under the impressive layers of paint.

It is worth mentioning this type of finishes as liquid wallpaper. This is a fairly often used material in finishing work, which fits perfectly on drywall. In composition, they are similar to thick paint, to which a decorative filler has been added.

The choice of plaster for the ceiling is yours, the only thing is that it is not recommended to use decorative plaster on a watery basis. Gypsum sheet does not tolerate moisture, from which it begins to swell, loses its shape and the whole structure deforms. In rooms with high humidity, acrylic-based decorative plaster is used. It perfectly copes with the effects of moisture and at the same time retains its properties.

By the size of the filler, plaster is divided into several types:

low texture- filler up to 1 millimeter;
medium texture- filler up to 1.5 millimeters;
large- filler from 3 to 5 millimeters;
fine texture- filler is less than 1 millimeter.

When choosing a plaster, keep in mind that thin fillers will not mask uneven surfaces. Give preference to denser fillers.

Tiles are another attractive option for finishing plasterboard ceilings. But there is one condition here - in advance it is necessary to process the entire surface of the plasterboard ceiling with a primer... Ignoring this stage, the tile will not last long and will fall off at any time.

Ceiling products are rarely finished with ceramic tiles, in this case, a material such as polyurethane or polystyrene is used... Such materials adhere easier and faster.

There are really a lot of options on the topic of finishing work on a drywall surface with your own hands, the choice depends on the characteristics of the living space and plans for the design of the entire room. Our step-by-step instructions will certainly help you mount drywall and finish the ceiling.

Do not neglect the steps and materials to prepare the surface for future finishes, such as leveling the surface with a putty.

Sooner or later, when working with drywall sheets, you will be faced with a situation where the sheet will need to be cut to size. To do this, use a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp construction knife, a stationery will also work. Having made the markings, use a knife to slowly cut the cardboard layer, trying to hook the gypsum filler. Then put the sheet on the edge of the table and with a sharp movement break the gypsum filler to the bottom cardboard layer.

Preparatory work with drywall is not limited to cutting it to the required size. If you want to get a flat surface, the joints and seams must be masked after installation on a metal frame structure. For this, the technology of chamfering along the edges of the drywall sheet is used. The dimensions of the chamfers directly depend on the chosen method, which will be used to putty the plasterboard sheets.

If you chose the tape reinforcement method, the chamfers are made at a 45-degree angle. When using a putty with a self-adhesive serpentine, it is necessary to chamfer at a 25-degree angle, which is already two-thirds of the sheet density. To manufacture this process, you need to purchase a specialized edge planer.

Plastering plasterboards and sealing joints is inevitable if you need a flat surface without seams.

Grouting of the joint and seam is carried out strictly after dust, crumbs and other tiny particles left after installation work have been removed. After that, the drywall is treated with a primer, which increases the adhesion of the sheets to the putty. After the first layer, it is necessary to wait until it is completely dry, then a second layer is applied, while the excess is removed with a spatula. After the putty joint has dried, it is actively sanded with sandpaper... Places that are fixed with self-tapping screws, as well as all corners, are subjected to the same procedure.

As mentioned earlier, drywall sheets can take any sophisticated curvilinear shape. Before you start shaping the drywall, you need to remember that dry sheets can be bent, provided that the radius does not exceed the established standards:

sheet thickness 6 mm- radius not less than 1000 millimeters;
sheet thickness 9 mm- radius of 2000 mm;
thickness 12 mm- radius of 2700 millimeters.

In a desire to save money, many prefer a wooden frame made of lath and timber. Such a frame will perform the function of fixing the drywall sheet, but how durable this structure is is another question.

It is no secret that wood has a low resistance to moisture and is even more susceptible to it than gypsum plasterboard. As a result, a permanent deformation of the wood frame awaits you, which leads to the emergence of new chips, cracks and uneven joints. In addition, wood is a natural natural material preferred by many insects. When working with drywall, a metal frame can give you a guarantee for a long and strong fixing of sheets and will save you from many difficulties in the future.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Plasterboard ceiling is a good opportunity not only to give the ceiling a more elegant look, but also to play a significant role in the interior of the room, for example, to emphasize any interior object. In this case, these are columns.

Sharp bends of the ceiling accentuate their massiveness and elegance. And the diagonal built-in lighting gives the space symmetry and harmony.

Complex structures of plasterboard structures immediately attract attention, give the living space a new shape, changing it beyond recognition. The interior looks richer and more refined. A smooth flexible line, built-in lighting devices give an atmosphere of warmth and comfort.

Correctly selected plasterboard ceiling design radically changes the atmosphere of the entire living space: it will add height, volume, luxury and increase space. The so-called floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting fixtures is one of the most popular options, suitable for both private houses and apartments.

Installation of plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands. How to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands

Tools and materials

Preparatory activities

Plasterboard frame construction

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

Plaster of plasterboard ceiling

Photo gallery of finished plasterboard ceilings

Advantages and disadvantages

Necessary materials

Drywall prices

Calculations and markup

Laser Level Prices

Wireframe creation

Working with drywall

Finishing work

Prices for gypsum mixes

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

What do you need to install drywall?

Plasterboard Ceiling Installation Tools

Preparation of markings for ceiling mounting

Ceiling Frame Assembly Guide

Materials for mounting the frame

Sheet Fastening Guide

Installation procedure for the second and subsequent levels of the ceiling

How is an oval plasterboard ceiling mounted?

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling

Plasterboard false ceiling

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

Which is better - drywall or stretch ceiling

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed?

Materials and tools

Preparatory work

Room preparation

Drafting a project

Calculation of the amount of material

Ceiling and wall marking

Purchase of materials

Assembling the frame

Heat and sound insulation

Plasterboard installation

Final finishing

Sealing of seams

Plasterboard filling

Cutting holes for fixtures

Painting the ceiling with water emulsion

How to make a backlight

How to make multiple levels

Related Videos

Peculiarities

Pros and cons

Views

Forms

Project

Equipment and materials

Mounting

Frame and thermal insulation

Finishing work

Beautiful examples in the interior