Is it necessary to install heating for the roof eaves. Heating connection diagram for roof and gutters

The article provides information on the correct choice of a reliable roof and gutter heating system for your home or summer cottage. After reading the article, you will receive a lot of useful and important information that will be useful during the construction process and will help you ask the right questions when ordering roof heating. in a construction company and you will definitely do right choice based on the advice and guidance I received in my article.

Roof heating system helps to protect the roof from the effects of bad weather in winter

Roof heating and its functions

Now such an innovation is only entering widespread use. Many people neglect roof de-icing work because they are afraid of wasting electricity and money on the creation of the system itself. However, it is worth considering that this approach can lead to an accelerated failure of the roofing pie. This will entail unscheduled repairs, and, consequently, unnecessary financial costs. Let's see how roof heating protects the roof.

So, the use of this system allows you to get rid of systematic ice, which causes significant damage to the structure, disrupting its waterproofing. By the way, do not hope that timely cleaning will solve the problem. It will not cope with all the moisture accumulating on the roof and gutters. In addition, by heating the roof, you get rid of falling icicles and snow, thereby increasing safety.

There are other ways to combat icing. For example, the arrangement of a special ventilation system attic or roof treatment with de-icing emulsions. However, all these methods are imperfect, require constant financial costs and take a lot of your time, and also lower the temperature inside the building. That's why the best way Is the right roof heating.

Installation of an ice channel will help get rid of many problems

What is a roof heating system

It is called differently: snow melting system, heating system or anti-ice. Such a device consists of a large number of sensors, wires, executive and instrumentation devices, as well as heating elements. Such a complex prevents the formation of icing on the roof surface and prevents excess snow from accumulating.

It is not necessary to heat the entire roof surface, therefore, certain places are chosen for the installation of heaters, which are the most susceptible to the accumulation of ice and snow, as well as places that can pass moisture into the roofing cake. So the system must necessarily cover the edges of the slopes and the surface of the valley, as well as cover the entire length of the gutters.

Important! The roof heating system must be located below the snow guards. Firstly, this will allow you not to waste too much electricity on heating roof sections that do not require it. Secondly, the melting of the snow cap on the roofs increases the thermal conductivity of the roofing cake, which entails an accelerated heat loss.

It is also convenient that the cables can be installed after the end of construction at any free time, because the system is most often located on the surface of the roofing material.

Roof heating cable can be installed at any time

If the heating system for the roof of your house is executed correctly and competently, then you can forget about the snow falling from the roof. Still, such a device lightens the load on the rafter system, which contributes to the greater durability of the roofing cake. In addition, you get good gutter protection. After all, there are frequent cases when it cracks from the frozen water accumulated inside.

By the way, the anti-icing system relieves the owners of the house from the regular manual cleaning of the roofing material.

roofing works of any complexity on a turnkey basis. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How the roof heating system works

Let's see what the main elements are included in the system and how they should be located.

An approximate layout of the heating system on the roof

The whole complex of heating equipment usually consists of three main components.

The heating unit includes a network of single or double heating wires. It is also worth pointing out at this point that a special film can also be used as a heating element. It is important that the heating elements meet certain requirements. They must be able to cope with sudden changes in temperature as well as power surges. The system must also be resistant to excess moisture. If you plan to walk on the roof, then resistance to mechanical damage is a prerequisite for the heating unit.

The information and distribution unit is designed to control the transmission of electricity from the network to the heaters. This part of the system provides information in the form of sensor readings and feeds all the components of the anti-icing system. It is better to install all sensors and elements of this unit in places where moisture does not get. For example, in an attic or under a roof overhang.

The control unit includes thermostats, weather sensors, as well as devices that allow you to manually change the roof temperature and power supply. A variant with a self-regulating control system is possible. This eliminates the need to constantly regulate the operation of the heating complex, and the necessary changes are introduced automatically. In this case, the mini-computer makes decisions based on the readings of the weather sensors.

The ice cable is also laid in the drainage channel.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of completing the construction of unfinished houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How to choose the right heating system

Such systems differ primarily in the type of heating element. Options with cable or foil heaters are possible. The second method has much in common with the "warm floor" system. An important difference is that the film must be located inside the roofing cake, because it is not designed for serious loads and is poorly adapted to mechanical damage. But the cable, on the contrary, can be on the surface of the roofing material. But the wire can also be laid inside. This is usually used when installing a flat roof heating system, as well as in the construction of high-rise buildings. Only cable is used to heat gutters and pipes.

The cable is used for outdoor heating of the roof

Characteristics of different types of heating elements:

It is a matrix with polymer insulation and two cores of wires inside. It also includes a metal braid and an additional layer of insulating material. If it gets warmer outside, then the number of conductive paths inside the matrix decreases and, as a result, the temperature of the heater decreases. This type of heater has many advantages. Firstly, the installation of the cable is quick and does not require a lot of experience. Secondly, the matrix itself is resistant to overlaps and spot heating, thanks to the temperature self-regulation system. Thirdly, such a cable can be used in combination with absolutely any roofing materials. An important plus is what the system chooses optimal temperature and thus prevents the consumption of unnecessary electricity. It is possible to install such heaters without the use of weather sensors, and with the help of a self-regulating cable, you can heat gutters.

Self-adjusting wire is the most easily mounted on the roof

Resistive wire

Heating occurs due to the resistance of the conductor. This cable can be two-core or single-core. The insulation is made from a polymer layer, and on higher quality models, a nichrome core is used. When installing such a cable, you need to pay attention to the fact that both the beginning and the end of each wire must necessarily converge at one point. There is one rather serious disadvantage of such a heating system: in the event of a point damage, the entire anti-icing complex fails. Installation is inconvenient because the resistive cable must not be cut. This method is suitable for heating large areas roofs.

The resistive system is more complex, it is better to entrust it to an experienced craftsman.

Film heater

It is a flexible film with carbon conductor conductors. Heats such material with the entire surface, since conductive strips are often located over the entire area of ​​the heater. It is very convenient to transport and store, because such film is sold in small rolls. This material is attached only under roof covering, therefore, it can only be used in the case of roof reconstruction or during construction. The installation of such a heater should be entrusted to specialists. In the event of local damage, the heating system does not fail, but loses its efficiency. During the repair process, it is always possible to replace the damaged section of the film heater. I would like to note that the film is very safe, it does not self-ignite. Uniform heating of the surface gives good savings electricity.

The foil heater is mounted with inside roofs

When choosing materials, you should pay attention to their cost. The most expensive is to use a foil heater. Self-regulating cable costs a little less, and the most a budget option Is a resistive wire. But I would like to note that heating the roof using a self-regulating cable is more economical and will give a good benefit in the future. Please also note that the installation of an anti-icing system on the roof surface is only possible with snow guards. Otherwise, the entire network will simply be torn off during heavy snowfall. Various improvements and options make the whole complex more expensive, but the choice is always yours. Remember to order heating system for the roof follows, based on the characteristics of your particular roof.

The heating system is chosen based on the type and characteristics of the roof

Roof heating system installation

First you need to figure out which area of ​​the roof requires heating. As already mentioned, these are valleys, overhangs and places where a large amount of snow and ice accumulates, as well as gutters. It is worth noting that the benefits of partial heating of areas that need it are much lower than from heating the roof in all problem areas. After you have decided on the area that is worth heating, you need to calculate required amount materials and purchase them.

So, after all the materials have been selected and purchased, you can proceed with the installation. Below you will find information on how to properly install the entire system.

Experienced hands will not make mistakes when installing a cable roof heating system

The first step is to completely clean the entire roof surface, as well as gutters from debris or leaves. Further, the fastening tape is installed in the necessary places. The next step is the installation of the junction box. It is worth bringing and fixing the “cold” end of the cable, which is previously threaded into the corrugated tube, to it. After completing this procedure, unfold the cable inside the gutters, fixing it with the tendrils of the fastening tape. Now you need to fix the wire inside the downpipe. To do this, the cable is attached to the chain, for example, with plastic ties, and the whole system is threaded into the pipe. After that, it is worth fixing the upper segment. The bottom edge can be secured using metal ties. Next, you need to spread the loops over the surface of the roof and fix them using the antennae of the tape. If the roof slopes are too steep, then it would be better to add plastic ties. Now you can install the weather sensors. They should be located on the north side of the building next to the junction box. The next step is to check the entire wiring system. The quality of the system can be determined by measuring the resistance in the circuit and comparing the readings obtained with the data specified in the product passport. It remains only to fix the control panel inside the room. After finishing the installation, you need to measure the temperature of the system in order to compare it with the data you entered.

Roof heating system structure

Video description

You can familiarize yourself with the installation procedure for heating the roof, gutters and gutters by watching the video:

If the check showed the correct result, then the installation of the anti-icing system was completed correctly. In this case, you get a good, reliable heating of the roof and gutters. Such a system will increase the service life of the roof, as well as eliminate the inconvenience associated with falling icicles and snow from overhangs.

Conclusion

A competent choice and high-quality installation of the roof anti-icing system will avoid the problem of clogging the drain channels and the destruction of the entire drainage system when snow melts from the roof. But it is better to entrust the design and installation of roof heating to professionals, because otherwise you can get a system that consumes too much electricity or does not cope with its duties.

On any roof in winter time years, icicles or even an ice bank can form. We will find out what means can be used to eliminate such phenomena.

We offer you a number of technical solutions for roof heating, which will help to combat icing of the roof and gutters. Ice and icicles can form on almost any roof. This is due to natural design flaws and is fraught with various consequences: from leaks to damage to the drainage system.

Roof and gutter heating solutions

• Heating cable selection
• Electrical equipment
• Roof heating installation

Purpose and principle of operation

Even in a well-designed roof, thermal protection is not absolute. As the snow cover accumulates, heat leaks into the atmosphere decrease, the temperature of the roofing rises, which is why it gradually melts. Flowing down, the water reaches the bottom of the slope, where it finally freezes, forming an ice bank.

Above this shaft, new portions of water are collected, the risk of leaks increases, and the snow cap continues to accumulate, increasing the load on the supporting system. At the very first thaw, the entire accumulated mass of snow and ice comes off the roof like an avalanche, damaging the drainage system and posing a threat to people and property.

Roof heating is an active anti-icing measure, the main task of which is to melt the resulting ice and facilitate the smooth removal of melt water. Depending on the roof structure, the specifics of the snow melting system may differ. Conventionally, roofs are classified according to the numerical value of heat losses:

1. Roofs over cold attics or unheated rooms are called cold roofs. The snow cap on them melts only on a sunny day near the bare areas of the roof; ice practically does not form. Heating of such roofs is required in cases where the amount of precipitation is high, and an independent fall of the cover is impossible due to the small slope. Basically, cold roofs are not heated.
2. Roofs over warm attics or attics with good insulation called moderately warm. This is the most difficult case: snow melt occurs at a low intensity, due to which the thickness of the ice layer is slowly but steadily growing. The task of the snow melting system is to accelerate the melting of snow, while the system operates in a semi-automatic mode at infrequent but rather long intervals.
3. Roofs with poor insulation are conventionally considered warm, the snow melting on them is very active. As a rule, the formation of ice is recorded in the lower part of the slopes and gutters, therefore heating elements placed only in these areas. Their power is quite high, the system works in a repeated-short-term mode.

Heating cable selection

Two types of two-core heating cables are used for roof heating. The first option is a heating section of fixed length and power, this is the most convenient way to heat gutters and pipes.

There are also self-regulating cables consisting of two parallel conductive cores, the space between which is filled with a weak dielectric, the resistance of which increases abruptly when heated to a certain temperature. Thanks to this, the self-regulating cable can be connected in segments of any length, only the maximum length of the line is limited.

Both types of cable have a rather complex structure. Heating conductors or steam are wrapped in a heat-resistant sheath with good dielectric properties. A shielding braid is wound over the shell - a protective measure in case of damage to the main electrical insulation. The cable is also covered with outer insulation, which protects against both breakdown and mechanical damage.

The self-regulating cable also has an additional layer under the outer sheath that eliminates the friction of the flat heating core against the outer insulation to maintain its shape.

All heating cables are divided according to specific power, which can be 15–50 W / lm. Cables up to 20 W / m.p. used on warm roofs, up to 30 W / m.p. - in cold areas of moderately warm roofs, up to 50 W / m. - for heating the drainage system.

Electrical equipment

Since the system electric heating it is operated in rather harsh conditions, and safety measures are much stricter than when heating open areas, the system requires the use of a number of electrical products and protective devices.

The most demanding attention is electrical connections... In conditions high humidity and exposure to ultraviolet radiation, standard heating cable joints do not demonstrate sufficient reliability. Therefore, they are used only for connecting heating cables to each other or in conditions where the installation of a secure connection is impossible.

In other situations, the heating cable is connected to the power cable inside junction box with degree of protection IP66 via screw terminals. The box is placed under the eaves of the roof, which slightly increases the consumption of the heating cable, but it is guaranteed to protect the vulnerable spot.

The worst thing that can happen to a heating system is insulation breakdown and a short circuit between the conductors or on metal cover roofs. That's why circuit breaker to protect the line, select in exact accordance with its power and the effective supply voltage.

It is required to select the machine that is closest to the nominal value, and then adjust the thermal splitter according to the instructions. The second stage of protection is a fire-fighting RCD designed for leakage currents of 200-400 mA. For its correct operation, the shielding braids of all heating cables must be reliably grounded.

The self-regulating cable is used in systems with manual activation and does not require the installation of a thermostat. The exception is heating systems for roofs of houses that are not designed for permanent residence, or if the goal is to make the heating work completely autonomous.

In such cases, the thermostat turns off the heating when a positive air temperature is reached, and the automation can also use the readings of the humidity sensor to determine the presence of precipitation. For heating sections, the installation of a thermostat is mandatory, the cut-off temperature is selected in the range of +3 ... + 10 ° C, depending on climatic conditions. In this case, the temperature sensor is not located in the open air, but is rigidly fixed 20–25 mm from the heating element.

Roof heating installation

The location of the cables on cold and warm roofs is different. In the first case, the heating elements are raised in parallel lines along the entire length of the slope with a step of 30-40 cm. Such a heating system is used only on flat roofs with a slope of less than 10 °, where the snow cap is not possible to fall off on its own.

In all other cases, only the lower cold edge is heated, where ice accumulates. For warm roofs, the width of the heating strip is equal to the projection of the coating beyond the outer plane of the wall.

On moderately warm roofs, heating is arranged on the width of the eaves and walls plus 10-15 cm. The cable is laid with a triangular snake with a distance between the tops from 25 to 100 cm, depending on the density of the heating elements.

It is determined by the required specific power of the heated area, which for moderately warm roofs is 250-300 W / m2, and for warm roofs - about 400 W / m2. Depending on the climatic conditions, the manufacturer may provide additional recommendations for adjusting the power.

Fastening the cable to the roof with a snake pitch of more than 50 cm is carried out with point clamps, which are attached to the coating with self-tapping screws or blind rivets. Before fastening, a special seal is placed between the retainer and the roof. With a fairly frequent step of the snake, it is better to mount it on a perforated mounting tape.

It is attached with two parallel lines at the bottom of the slope and with the required indent from the edge, after which the cable is pressed by bending the cut petals. This method is especially often used on steep slopes, where the probability of a snow cap coming off is high: the cable will not be damaged in this case, the mounts will simply be unbent.

Special attention should be given to wind overhangs and valleys. At each overhang, the cable should rise from the bottom by 2/3 of the slope height. An excessive amount of ice forms in the valleys and gutters, so the specific heating power should be increased by 1.5 times. As a rule, this is achieved by laying two or three parallel heating cable lines on both sides of the valley with a pitch of 10–12 cm.

Anti-icing of the gutter system

With an existing roof heating system, it is imperative to lay heating cables also in gutters and drain pipes. Without this, the melted water will not be able to drain freely, freeze and most likely damage the drainage system.

As a rule, two cables with a specific power of more than 25 W / m.p. are sufficient for gutters. One of them is laid along the outer side, the other - along the bottom of the gutter. Fixation is performed on special staples, which are fixed inside the tray with a step of 20-30 cm. If water freezes in the drain during operation, you can add another heating cable.

Pipes are the most vulnerable part of the drainage system, due to entanglement of the cable, plugs can form inside them, and the entire system will become unusable. Therefore, usually for pipes, cables with a capacity of up to 50 W / lm are chosen. with a high operating temperature. P.S. And remember, just by changing our consumption - together we are changing the world! © econet

Early spring and late autumn all homeowners face the problem of freezing of roof slopes and freezing inside melt water gutters. If it is not resolved in a timely manner, the safety of people, as well as the safety of their property, will be threatened by large icicles falling from the roof and frozen lumps of snow.

Good decision- heating of gutters, which will prevent the formation of ice. In this material, we will talk about why you need to equip the drainage system with heating. We will also talk about what materials are required for this and describe in detail the essence of the process.

In the winter months, frost and heavy rainfall prevail in most regions of our country. As a result, large masses of snow accumulate on the roof. An increase in temperature first provokes their thawing, and later, active thawing.

During the day, the melted water runs to the edges of the roof and into the gutters. At night, it freezes, which leads to the gradual destruction of roof elements and gutters.

This pattern is typical for the off-season. If you don't take action, ice and snow will fall to the ground. This may damage the facade, gutters parked at the bottom of the car.

Icicles and a conglomerate of frozen snow and ice accumulate at the edges of the roof. From time to time, they break down, threatening the safety of the people below and their property, the integrity of the drainage system and elements of the facade decor.

All these troubles can be prevented only by ensuring the unhindered drainage of the melted water. This is only possible if the edges of the roof are heated and.

It happens that in order to reduce the cost of the heating system, it is laid only on the surface of the roof. The owner is fully confident that this will be enough.

However, it is not. Water will flow into gutters and pipes, where it will freeze at the end of the day, since there is no heating there. The drains will be clogged with ice, so they will not be able to receive melt water. In addition, there is a risk of mechanical damage.

Thus, in order to obtain a good result, it is necessary to equip the heating of the roof and the surrounding drains. In most cases, the heating cable is installed on roof eaves, inside gutters and in funnels, at joints of roof fragments, along valley lines.

In addition, heating must be present along the entire length of downpipes, in water collectors and drainage trays.

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Heating system calculation

Experts advise choosing cables with a capacity of at least 25-30 W per meter for the roof and gutter heating system. Be aware that both types of heating cables are used for other purposes. For arranging underfloor heating, for example, but their power is much lower.

Before proceeding with the power calculations, you need to decide how all the elements of the system will be heated. The figure shows examples of the possible organization of heating gutters and gutters.

Power consumption is estimated in active mode. This is the period when the system is operating at maximum load. It lasts a total of 11 to 33% of the entire cold season, which conventionally lasts from mid-November to mid-March. These are average values, they are different for each area. The power of the system needs to be calculated.

To determine it, you need to know the parameters of the drainage system.

Let's give an example of calculations for standard design with a vertical drainage section of 80-100 mm, the diameter of the gutter pipe is 120-150 mm.

• It is necessary to accurately measure the lengths of all water drainage troughs and add the resulting values.
• The result must be multiplied by two. This is the length of the cable that will be laid along the horizontal section of the heating system.
• The length of all vertical gutters is measured. The resulting values ​​are added.
• Length vertical section system is total length drains, as in this case one cable line will be sufficient.
• The calculated lengths of both sections of the heating system are added.
• The result obtained is multiplied by 25. The result is the electrical heat output in active mode.

Such calculations are considered approximate. More precisely, everything can be calculated if you use a special calculator on one of the Internet sites. If independent calculations difficult, it is worth inviting a specialist.

Choosing a place for laying the cable

Actually, the heating system for gutters is not so complicated, but in order for it to work as efficiently as possible, you should lay the cable in all areas where ice forms, and in places where melted snow melts.

In roof valleys, the cable is mounted up and down, extending two thirds of the valley. Minimum - 1 m from the beginning of the overhang. For every square meter valleys should have 250-300 watts of power.

On flat sections of the roof, they equip the heating of the roof fragment located directly in front of the catchment. So the melt water will easily enter the pipe.

Along the edge of the cornice, the wire is laid in the form of a snake. The step of the snake for soft roofs is 35-40 cm, on hard roofs it is made a multiple of the pattern. The length of the loops is chosen so that cold zones do not appear on the heated surface, otherwise ice will form here. The cable is laid on the line of separation of water through a drip. It can be 1-3 threads, the choice is made based on the design of the system.

The heating cable is installed inside the gutters. Usually two threads are laid here, the power is selected depending on the diameter of the chute. One heating vein is laid inside the gutters. Particular attention should be paid to pipe outlets and funnels. Additional heating is usually required here.

Heating system arrangement technology

We propose to study detailed instructions on the installation of a heating system for roofs and gutters with their own hands. The process of installing a heating system for gutters includes a number of standard steps:

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The problem of icing gutters and roofs is encountered in winter, especially in regions that are characterized by sharp temperature changes. When the temperature rises above zero, precipitation in the form of snow begins to melt. When the temperature drops sharply, ice forms in the funnels of the drain, and icicles begin to hang from the roof. Roof heating can solve this problem.

How it works

With a slight increase in temperature indicators, the melting of ice blocks cannot be controlled. At the same time, water does not flow through the drain pipe, but immediately from the roof surface, falling under the roof slope, onto the walls, falling into the seams. Of course, this has a detrimental effect on the condition of the entire building. The roof heating system allows you to get rid of the consequences of this kind of phenomena.

Solution

To prevent the problem, requires installation on the nodes of the drain and the roof of the heating system. Such equipment operates in a fully automated mode. Their principle of operation is based on heating an electrical conductor when a certain air temperature is reached. The heating process is regulated by a built-in control unit. Most of the models of such devices are configured to start in the range from -10 to +6 degrees, because it is in this interval that ice begins to form, and roof heating allows you to cope with this nuisance.

The functioning of roof and gutter heating is based on heating the structure by means of an electric current. In this case, it is necessary to correctly select the indicators of the nominal power of the cable and install it, guided by the requirements of the main instructions. Only in this situation will the equipment be effective, safe and reliable.

Roof heating prevents damage to property and many accidents in winter:

• injuries due to avalanches from the roof;
• falling icicles on cars and people, etc.

This system not only leads to the melting of ice and snow masses, but also prevents their formation in the gutters and on the roof surface. The equipment in question belongs to the group of security systems. They are now installed on both private and municipal buildings.

There are many types of wires on the market today for such installations. Both domestic and foreign companies are engaged in their production. The cost of a heating cable produced by a foreign company varies from seven to ten thousand rubles. Russian manufacturers produce at least high-quality products at a price of five to eight thousand for a ten-meter segment.

Requirements

The technology for the device of the roof heating system is carried out on the basis of the installation rules electrical equipment, building codes and manufacturer's manuals. At the same time, special requirements are put forward for such equipment.

The power of the cable must be at least 20-60 W / m. When choosing a cable for this characteristic, you should pay attention to the climate of the region and the features of the facility being developed.

In addition, the wire must have a higher insulation category:

• the product should not deform under UV exposure;
• get too hot in selected locations;
• the cable must function reliably both in temperature extremes and in conditions of high ambient humidity.

A good cable has a sheath made of different materials. It must also have a grounding conductor..

Types of cables

On the market now you can find several types of equipment for heating gutters and roofs. These systems can be equipped with two types of cables:

• resistive;
• self-regulating.

The first wire heats up evenly along its entire length. It is similar to the wire used for indoor underfloor heating. The resistive cable is characterized by high power ratings and a special sheath. Its price varies from five to eight thousand rubles for a ten-meter segment.

Another type is self-regulating. Such a cable may heat up unevenly in different areas. This solution is more thoughtful and modern, therefore its cost will be slightly higher - from eight to ten thousand rubles per ten meters.

Sometimes builders use combined systems. For example, a resistive wire is installed on the roof slopes, and a self-regulating wire is installed inside the gutters.

Features of resistive wire

This wire is a pretty powerful system.... Its veins are often made of nichrome, which quickly heats up under the influence of electric current. There are several layers of insulating materials around the nichrome veins. As a result, the wire cross-section reaches seven millimeters. Experts advise against cutting the core that is soldered to the power cable using a special technology. That is why the warranty does not cover damaged wires.

The resistor cable takes some time to heat up to a certain value. To control the generated heat, it is necessary to use a thermostat, otherwise the heating system will consume too much electrical energy.

The device for heating the roof and gutters using a resistive cable has many disadvantages. When working, it often happens that on the one hand roof structure the temperature of the system will be higher, and the cable will quickly overheat and become ineffective.

In addition, such a system must not be shortened. The area of ​​the gutters and the roof may not be the same, respectively, it will be extremely difficult to choose a cable by size.

All this negatively affects the durability of the resistive system. For installation, you need to additionally buy a thermostat, the cost of which is comparable to the cost of the wire itself. If this device is not included in the system, then the heating will consume too much energy.

Self-adjusting line characteristics

This type of system is considered more convenient, reliable and modern.... Such a wire includes two strands of a metal alloy. Between these conductors there is a special coating - a semiconductor. It is he who is responsible for regulating the ambient temperature.

If it gets too cold outside, then he freely passes an electric current through himself. At the same time, the entire system begins to heat up more intensively. In the event that it becomes warmer outside the window, then the built-in polymer matrix begins to conduct electric current less actively, respectively, the heating level decreases.

The polymer matrix is ​​surrounded by special insulating materials. For such a system, it is not necessary to have a thermostat, since it will consume exactly as much electricity as is needed for operation. At the same time, the cable is divided into separate sections, so it can even be lengthened or shortened.

A heating device using a self-regulating cable has many advantages. Such systems are very durable. They can be used not only for roofs and gutters, but also for sewerage and water pipelines. The cable reacts very accurately to external conditions and temperature changes.

For a self-regulating system, you do not need to purchase an expensive thermostat. You just need to install the plug on a separate cable, which is connected to the household power supply. The only factor in the not very great popularity of these systems is considered to be the high cost, because the resistive cable will cost much less.

Roof heating system installation

Arranging an electrically heated roof, you need to take into account all its design features. In the event that the roof is devoid of gutters, then you can use several installation options.

The cable is laid on special guides. They are often already included with the cable. If they are not available, then the corresponding set can be purchased at stores of construction and repair goods.

In the event that there is no drain on the roof and it has a relatively small slope, then you can install the system with a special recess in the center. When the roof slopes steeply, the system is laid out towards the edges from the center. You need to make small holes near each corner, which will be used for the discharge of melt water and a loop of wires.

Installing the cable in the gutter

Self-regulating wires are often used for gutters. In this case, the cable must be installed in the lower part of the pipe for at least two-thirds of its entire length. The system is fixed using special elements. The cable is laid in several rows.

If the installation is carried out by installing a resistive wire, then it must be borne in mind that it is forbidden to bend it too much, otherwise the core inside can easily be damaged. The distance between individual turns should be 4-6 cm.

Control unit selection

Connecting the system using an automatic temperature and humidity controller is considered the most reasonable option. Thanks to the built-in sensors, the operation of the system does not require human intervention.

The automatic control unit and self-regulating wires allow additional savings on electricity and increase the efficiency of the entire system. Connecting a manual control unit will be much cheaper, but such a system will need constant monitoring and attention. depending on the weather outside.

Combined system

Some professional and private builders use two types of cables at the same time. In this situation, a self-regulating wire is taken for the gutters, and the rest of the elements and surfaces of the roof are heated with a resistive type.

This option allows you to save a lot on installation, since a resistive cable is much cheaper than a self-regulating one. The service life and level of heating quality of such a system will be much higher than when using an exclusively resistive cable. At the same time, the owners of the building will be able to optimize the consumption of electrical energy.

Together with the first invigorating frost, the Russian winter brings many problems: tons of snow on the roofs, ice and icicles falling on the head. But ice on the roof is not only a risk for the people standing below to get serious injury, but also the constant destruction of gutters and hanging gutters. Not to mention the fact that large overloads with snow or ice can even create distortions and destruction of the roof. Arm yourself with a shovel or equip a professional heating of the roof of your house? Let's decide together!

Designing an anti-icing system is a complex engineering task. It is important to take into account many factors here, ranging from the configuration of the roof and ending with the location of all protrusions and canopies. But, approaching this process responsibly and carefully studying this article, you can install the cable on the roof of your house with your own hands.

Are you curious to know why icicles form at the edge of the roof? And where do they come from in winter, because for this the snow needs to melt?

The thing is that snowflakes, falling on a relatively warm roof, melt and simply flow down. Gradually, they overcome a surface that is warmer in temperature and fall on a completely cold cornice, which is located outside the building and no longer receives heat from it. This is where the water freezes, forming large icicles. And they are already giving us so many problems.

The formation of an "ice shell" on the roof indicates the presence of a serious temperature difference between the heated part of the roof and the unheated cornice. And there may be several reasons for this.

Reason # 1. Incorrect thermal insulation

Note that they were put on the roof - most often due to improper insulation. So, if the heat loss of the house largely goes through the roof (due to the lack of normal thermal insulation), then the same heat is also slightly heated by the snow on the roof. And the one, as you already understood, creates the main problems.

And if the ice on the roof is a sign that roofing cake was wrong, then literally in two or three years all this will come out sideways: rotting insulation, mold on the walls and the smell of dampness. That is why, ideally, a properly equipped roof does not need heating. ice does not form on it. Unless the weather is naughty.

Reason # 2. Climate features

According to the meteorologist, over the winter, on average, in Russia, up to 70 temperature jumps over the 0 ° C mark are recorded! But such fluctuations are the ones that cause the most problems. So, the air quickly heats up and quickly cools, the snow begins to melt - and immediately turns into ice.

Severe frosts overnight give way to a thaw, and then an unexpected sub-zero temperature. Does this sound familiar? Is the weather like that in that area? Thaws are especially problematic when in one day outside temperature can easily be found on either side of the zero mark. As a result, the snow on the roof melts during the day and quickly freezes at night.

Reason number 3. Complex roof structure

The turrets popular on the roof add their complications, inner corners, collars and horizontal platforms. All of them form additional snow cover, which is even more problematic. Why do designers recommend for Russian latitudes to give preference to a simple roof shape with an angle of inclination of 30 °, and in Europe, let them fantasize, they do not have so much snow.

Why is all this dangerous for the roof?

So why be afraid? Already the first water frozen on the cornice forms an ice dam, in front of which water continues to accumulate. According to invisible physical laws, the liquid now begins to move upward along the seams of roofing joints, as water moves in communicating vessels (these are the very ones used as a building hydro level). And this, in turn, becomes the cause of leaks!

Moreover, ice manages to form not only on the roof, but also in gutters, and even in vertical drain pipes. And if there is no way out of the melt water due to clogged with ice drain, it begins to flow under the roofing. And even there, moisture will always find a way out to the insulation and the internal space: holes in the waterproofing film after the stapler, small tears, damage, joints with roofing elements. The result is rotten rafters, damp insulation and fungal growth in the attic.

In addition, if you have ever come across broken gutters, be aware that this is the work of ordinary snow and melted snow, when there is no protective anti-icing system.

Also, if there is no snow on the roof, because it constantly thaws and slides down, then the roofing itself will eventually be subject to constant cycles of freezing and defrosting. And this is a tangible reduction in the life of the roofing. And most of all it suffers soft roof, which loses its stone chips and clogs the weirs with it, the ceramic tiles burst, and eventually water flows under the roll roof. Even metal breaks apart from ice.

That is why roof heating is necessary for any building, and not only where icicles threaten to fall on the heads of the townspeople. Moreover, modern technical solutions quite simple and accessible to everyone.

Why not just throw off the snow?

Note that today a mechanical method of dealing with ice and icicles is actively used - a shovel, a crowbar and a scraper. It would seem that it is simpler: we knock all this wealth off the roof, and you're done. No electrical systems, cables or pipes required. hot water... But in fact, the disadvantages of this method completely overlap all its advantages:

• From frozen ice gutters are clogged and gutters deteriorate.
• When cleaning the roof, it is easy to scratch the roof covering and quickly lead to corrosion.
• When cleaning snow, a person often slides off the roof with it.

In addition, the gutters themselves with ice are dangerous. They become too heavy and at one point they can simply collapse on the head of people standing nearby. And that's not to mention how expensive repairs can expect you.

Why install heating and what are the options?

There are three reasons to install a special heating system on the roof:

1. Safety of people, animals and personal property that may fall into the area under icicles and ice blocks. Agree, it's a shame not only to get a concussion from a rolling block of ice, but also to beat your favorite car.
2. Reducing the weight load on the roof and the entire building that ice can create.
3. Preservation of the integrity of the roof and drainage system, protection from destruction due to the formation of ice.

But let's take a look at some of the individual concepts.

Roofs on which both snow and ice melt at a temperature of -10 ° C are called "warm". They just have problems with icing and they cannot do without additional heating. If the ice on the roof melts even at a lower temperature, such a roof is called “hot”, and the usual cable heating system may no longer be enough.

In order to get rid of ice on the roof, the following methods are used today:

• Most rare view heating the roof today - these are electrical impulse systems. They require expensive equipment, which pays for itself in only a few years, due to the rather low consumption of electricity. But gutters and gutters cannot be protected from ice in this way.
• Heating the roof with a heating cable is the most modern and safe way getting rid of ice. It is convenient to use such a system to heat not only the edge of the roof, but also gutters and gutters, moreover, the most complex structure.
• The third way is to apply special emulsions to the roof to prevent icing. But emulsions are not cheap, and you need to apply them to the roof several times in one winter.

The most popular is electric heating of the roof and connected gutters, which will be discussed further.

Arrangement of electric heating for roofs and gutters

So, the simplest and most popular solution to the problem is to warm up the cornices with a snake. It will be necessary to install 6-8 meters of cable per 1 meter of the cornice in order to achieve a power of about 180 W / m for the same square.

There is also a more economical solution developed by some modern firms: sheets of copper or steel are mounted under the cable, which is less effective. It is enough for such an installation to operate with a power of 30 W / m, because the heat will be distributed from the cable already by 25-30 cm. And the total energy consumption will be reduced by 6-8 times, which is quite significant for a private house. Note that such heating systems are also an order of magnitude more fireproof.

The essence of this system

The roof heating system consists of the following elements:

1. Heating cable.
2. Automation.
3. Additional elements for fastening.
4. Power distribution network.

The heart of the heating cable is the heating matrix, and different manufacturers give it a different service life.

Selection of the necessary equipment

Complex automatic system assumes the location of sensors in the most critical places that can monitor the temperature and automatically turn on the heating when there is a danger of ice formation. Moreover, they can track not only temperature, but also humidity. That is why the automatic system, although it is more expensive than a conventional resistive cable by 20%, but saves the electricity itself.

But for the question of which cable is better - resistive or self-regulating - there is no definite answer. The fact is that it is more economical to install a resistive cable on roofs of a simple structure, because complex automation is not needed for it: we just set up cable system to the desired temperature range. But the roofs with different slopes, roof windows and others structural elements the resistive system is no longer effective - a self-regulating one is needed. Although the self-regulating cable can still be cut into pieces right during installation, why all heating system it is much easier to design with it.

Of course, situations are not uncommon when on one roof it is necessary to combine two whole systems in order to achieve the desired result.

Subtleties of installation

It is better to fix the heating system in warm time of the year. Next, we will talk about heating a flat and pitched roof separately.

The simplest heating - flat roof with parapets and internal funnels. In this case, it is sufficient to heat only the funnels or downpipes themselves.

Here, the cable must be installed in all outer pipes. If there is an overflow from different levels of the roof, then we heat both the place of the overflow and the likely path of the melt water to the nearest water intake.

The heating cable must be laid in all gutters and downpipes around the perimeter of the roof. Additionally, you can install a heating system in problem areas such as valleys and difficult parts of the roof.

If on the edge of the roof there is neither a drain pipe nor a gutter, then we simply hang one cable thread under the roof - it will “cut off” the icicles.

Note that hinged gutters have to be heated less than built-in ones - just take this into account when designing a house.

In addition, it is safer to fasten the cable to a special tape that keeps the roofing intact:

How to choose quality accessories?

There are two main indicators that characterize the quality of the heating cable. So, this is the power at rest, which is measured at an air temperature of 0 ° C and the working power, which is measured in ice, at its temperature of 0 ° C. Usually, manufacturers indicate both of these indicators directly on the heating cable.

Unfortunately, over time, the power always decreases, and the worse the quality of the cable, the faster. And a decrease in the power of the heating cable always leads to the fact that the heating system is getting worse and worse with its functions. Only the most expensive cables are capable of not changing their power for 10 years.

But take into account such subtleties. So, foreign manufacturer usually indicates the power of the cable at a mains voltage of 240V, while in Russia it is 220V. This means that the power of such a cable is actually less than 10%, which is important for accurate calculations. Therefore, it is better to purchase heating cables from companies that also develop their products specifically for Russia. Note that designers often reinsure themselves and advise the buyer to mount a more powerful cable than necessary.

For your own safety, try to use original components from the same manufacturer as the cable. Moreover, you need to demand this from suppliers who always strive to save money. Better yet, contact the official representative directly: they are easy to find on the Internet and you can immediately order a professional installation from them.

It is important that the outer sheath of the cable is UV resistant and does not deteriorate over time.

The main thing is to avoid mistakes!

Now let's take a look at all the most annoying mistakes in installing a heating cable, which can easily lead to problems.

Mistake # 1. Rough installation

If the cable is not attached carelessly, it can easily break in several places. Because of this, as a result, the entire heating system is destroyed.

Mistake # 2. Mobility

If the cable is mobile due to the fact that it is attached only to the mounting tape, this will not last even two years. And all because it will constantly be mechanically affected by snow and ice.

Mistake number 3. Incorrect fasteners

The heating cable for roofs must not be fastened with tape, which is used for installing underfloor heating. The clamps used are completely unsuitable for fastening the cable, and easily unbend under the pressure of the falling snow. Why, then, are clamps used for floors? This is a temporary measure, and their function ends when the floors are filled with cement screed.

The special plastic fastener for cables is also not suitable for this purpose, if it is mounted with a click. In a few years, such an attachment will crumble from fragility due to ultraviolet rays. And even more so, white plastic ties cannot be fastened - only black ones, and only from good manufacturer... Conventional screeds not for the roof are, of course, cheaper, and visually hold the cable no worse, but they will not survive more than one winter.

Mistake # 4. Excessive mounting holes

Any hole in the roof, even if it is well sealed with a sealant, begins to leak over the years. Therefore, it is absolutely wrong to strive to secure the cable as tightly as possible.

Mistake # 5. Incorrect cable insulation

If the tip of the heating cable is fitted with heat-shrink tubing and crimped with pliers, then when the wire heats up, the tightness will be lost. Can you imagine the consequences?

Mistake # 6. Lack of cable

The heating cable, of course, can be lowered into the drainpipe without a cable, but thermal expansion and the weight of the ice will do their job - the system will break off.

Mistake # 7. Using the wrong cable

Power cables that are not intended for laying specifically on the roof cannot be used: the system will constantly turn off, and electric shock to those who touch it is possible.

It is also not necessary to lay the cable where it is not needed - on the roof railing, for example. It's simple extra expense energy, and no more.

That's all the difficulty!