Technology for growing remontant strawberries. Features of caring for remontant strawberries

Remontability is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Repairability is observed in crops such as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to prune remontant strawberries.

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Planting and caring for remontant strawberries (in brief)

Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings in middle lane- at the end of February or at the beginning of March, in warmer areas - two to three weeks later. Planting seedlings in the ground - in the middle or at the end of May.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
The soil: leveled, loamy or sandy loam, neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
Watering: after planting seedlings - daily, after rooting - once every 2-4 days. In dry spring conditions, the first watering of old bushes is carried out at the end of April, and in May and June another 3-4 waterings are carried out. From August to September, the area is watered 2 times a month, trying to wet the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
Feeding: In just one season, 10-15 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers is carried out from spring to late autumn. From organics, slurry and chicken manure solution are preferred, from mineral complexes - Kemira Lux, Kristallin or Rastvorin.
Trimming: in the fall, those leaves that may be damaged by pests or infected with harmful plant microorganisms are carefully removed from the bushes. In spring, remove old, overwintered leaves. The mustache can be trimmed at any time.
Reproduction: mustache, dividing the bush.
Pests: aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, any beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds.
Diseases: affected by gray mold, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.

Remontant strawberry - description

Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant varieties crops form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberry in open ground produces two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after bearing fruit.

Sowing remontant strawberries

You can purchase remontant strawberry seedlings at a nursery or garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds requires that the soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with the moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge. Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed with a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is done in the middle zone at the end of February or beginning of March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.

Caring for remontant strawberry seedlings

Until the seedlings appear, the soil with the crops is kept slightly moist. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear within 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with the sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, provide the seedlings with additional lighting so that they do not stretch out. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.

Picking remontant strawberries

In the development phase, the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they are planted in spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant the seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are hardened: every day they are taken out for some time to the balcony, terrace or yard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.

Planting remontant strawberries

When to plant remontant strawberries

It is better to grow remontant strawberries in the area where such plants previously grew. vegetable crops like radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. Choose a site for strawberries that is sunny and level, where water will not stagnate. Soils preferable are loamy and sandy loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Sod-podzolic and peaty soil are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.

Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of return night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.

The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - in the fall, and for autumn planting in the spring. Dig up the soil on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the future planting site of weeds and adding a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg each to the soil. wood ash for every m². A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of the drug Kalijfos for each m² of area.

Planting remontant strawberries in spring

Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and row. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to a 20x20 cm pattern, and with the row method, a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.

On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer the seedlings into them along with a lump of earth. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and that the hearts are slightly above the surface of the area. Carefully squeeze the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids left in the roots, and water the strawberries.

Planting remontant strawberries in the fall

If you plant remontant strawberries in the spring, their fruiting will most likely begin only a year later, and besides, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to autumn planting remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to its subtleties.

Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives them time to take root and strengthen for winter without interference such as harmful insects and fungal pathogens. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.

Caring for remontant strawberries in spring

Caring for and growing remontant strawberries differs to some extent from cultivating ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a weight of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of the crop's agricultural technology are met.

After spring planting For strawberries, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofibre - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will be possible to water the strawberries less often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, timely removal of weeds from the garden bed, regular fertilizing and protection from diseases and pests.

In early spring, the old ones are removed from last year's remontant strawberries. yellow leaves and add ammonium nitrate to the soil. Next nitrogen fertilizing deposited at the end of May.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in the spring, but it makes sense to donate spring harvest to collect more berries in the fall, especially since the spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks of remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain strength for abundant autumn fruiting and will give you berries of much higher taste. However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although, if you take good care of your remontant strawberries and regularly fertilize them, you will be able to pick berries from them twice a season.

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer

How to care for remontant strawberries in the summer? After you harvest the first crop, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, the leaves are cut off, being careful not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on the rosettes of the mustache, so it is better not to trim the leaves of such strawberries.

Remontant strawberries begin their second fruiting in the summer, in August.

Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall

Very often, after the second fruiting, it is necessary to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average at good care a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but much depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.

Watering remontant strawberries

There is a special scheme for moistening beds with strawberries, since the crop has a shallow root system and cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves intensively evaporate moisture. Remontant strawberries, like garden ones, are moistened regularly, but they need moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.

After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then switched to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, provided there is little natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, you need to carry out another 3-4 waterings, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, loosen the soil around the bushes to provide the strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.

We remind you that mulching the bed or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.

Feeding remontant strawberries

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions to obtain high yields and prolong the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. NSD varieties are especially dependent on fertilizing. Phosphorus, if it was added to required quantity before planting, it will no longer be necessary to add it to the soil this season; you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or with manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per the same unit of area.

At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one to two percent urea solution, and approximately in the second half of June, during the extension of flower stalks of the second harvest, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.

In total, from 10 to 15 complex feedings are carried out per season. Fertilize remontant strawberries until late autumn, while their roots are growing, otherwise they will retire weakened and exhausted. They use not only organic fertilizers, but also mineral fertilizers, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Kristallin.

Transplanting remontant strawberries

Actually, there is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes, since they are short-lived and usually last no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you how to transplant the resulting daughter rosettes in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.

But if you still have a need to replant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so replant them as early as possible, before flower stalks appear, and then you will be able to get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to spend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn

After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays next year’s fruit buds. Leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain for the winter. Pruning of remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the area against diseases and pests.

As for the mustache, you can trim it throughout the season, or you can not trim it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be pruned so that the plantings do not become overgrown, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes that grow on the mustache, so you cannot trim the mustache, and to prevent the plantings from becoming overgrown, you just need to plant the bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are planning to trim the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also trim the mustache.

Pruning strawberries in remontant spring

In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are trimmed from strawberry bushes, if you did not trim them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated against diseases and pests. And it must be said that many gardeners prefer to prune remontant strawberries in the spring.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?

Propagation of remontant strawberries by mustache

If you want to expand your remontant strawberry bed with rooted runners, you'll have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark the strongest and most developed annual bushes, place their first tendrils in grooves made along the side of the bed, and the remaining tendrils will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will only need to leave the first rosettes. Trim the second-order tendrils, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant. While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting the rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then replant them as described at the beginning of the article.

Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush

This method of propagating remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Divide into developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots - by this age the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or in the fall, they are carefully divided into horns, after which they are planted in the garden bed.

Remontant strawberries in winter

With the onset of autumn, watering the strawberries is gradually reduced, they undergo sanitary pruning, if there is confidence that remontant strawberries should be pruned in the fall, carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberries to survive a couple of frosts and only then cover them for the winter. non-woven material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes that are unlikely to bear fruit next season need to be dug up before the first snow.

Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden ones: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.

Pests of remontant strawberries

The pests most often affecting remontant strawberries are aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as methods for getting rid of them, are described in detail in the article already posted on our website.

Varieties of remontant strawberries

As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries come in two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three harvests per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle zone and Siberia.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region

The best varieties remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:

Aromas– a highly productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mite with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
Vima Rina- a Dutch day-neutral variety that almost does not form runners, begins bearing fruit in the second half of June and stops forming fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in consistency, with high taste;
hybrid Tristan- a compact, early-flowering variety that hardly forms a mustache and bears fruit throughout the summer with sweet berries of dark red color and medium size. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
Garland– one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since on the bush you can simultaneously see flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical cultivation;
Diamond– an American highly productive variety with the best taste characteristics to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red in color. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are capable of forming mustaches, which greatly facilitates its propagation.

In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow region have proven themselves well in the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pican, Roman and others .

Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia

In the harsh Siberian climate, it is not easy to grow heat-loving plants, and not every strawberry variety can fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here: they produce the first harvest together with the usual garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:

Queen Elizabeth 2 – winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching a weight of 100-110 g;
Mount Everest- an unpretentious variety in terms of soil composition, resistant to diseases and pests, with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small berries of a conical shape and good taste. This variety forms mustache only in the first year of growth;
Inexhaustible- a large-fruited, productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia varieties and forming medium-height, slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt-pointed shiny berries of excellent taste ripen. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink. The variety produces few whiskers and is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
Russian size– a large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and disease, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
Ada– a high-yielding variety of German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustache Berries are bright red, average size, shiny, elongated-conical, with an average weight of 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.

In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others - the taste, and still others - the ability to form mustaches, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description different varieties, and you decide for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberries:

Brighton- a beardless variety of NSD, bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During cold weather they become larger and elongated. The variety is distinguished by its cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
Crimean remontant– one of the best DSD varieties of Ukrainian selection – high-yielding, continuously bearing fruit from the end of May to October. The berries of this variety are smooth, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The harvest is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
Autumn fun- one of the first DSD varieties of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. Juicy fruits This variety reaches a weight of 20 g, has dense pulp and an excellent dessert taste. The variety produces mustaches and is resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
Novel- a hybrid variety NSD, which differs from others in its high decorativeness due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of lush green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected soil at proper care up to 10 months a year. The fruits are smooth, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
San Rival– a variety of French selection with medium yield. First berries of the harvest irregular shape, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, round, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of whiskers, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing the Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. Bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but is not frost-resistant;
Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp with a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
Yellow miracle- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a disease- and pest-resistant yellow remontant strawberry with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g of an elongated conical shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety is not particularly fragrant.

Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:

Albion– a Californian variety resistant to weather stress, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves have a strong shine;
Gigantella Maxi– a Dutch variety with very large berries, weighing up to 100 g;
Crown– also a Dutch variety with aromatic red fruits of excellent taste that tolerate transportation well;
Kimberly– a variety with sweet red berries that taste like caramel;
Galya Chiv– a new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety – the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, is 45 g;
Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and the most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry produces berries both on bushes and on rosettes, so it is used for vertical growing;
Portola- a high-yielding variety bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regularly conical-shaped fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and have a more harmonious taste, practically devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety are instability to fungal and viral diseases;

For good fruiting of strawberries, it is required year-round care for this culture. After harvest, strawberry bushes require special care recovery. At correct implementation preventive work, strawberries increase fruiting by at least 15-30 percent.

The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety of simple or remontant strawberry is grateful for care, and berries grown with your own hands are strikingly different from store-bought ones.

How to properly care for strawberries after fruiting

Care after picking berries in July

In July, after fruiting of strawberries, care corresponding to this period is carried out, these are:

mustache trimming,
dried leaves,
weeding,
feeding,
hilling strawberries.

In July, after picking berries, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are laid.

First, the beds are weeded. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are removed. Reddened leaves are removed first. You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt.

For pruning, use sharp scissors or pruning shears. It is better to burn old leaves to prevent the proliferation of pests. If young leaves curl or take on a corrugated shape, this is an indicator of strawberry mite infestation and the plants should be treated with acaricidal preparations.

If the central leaves turn yellow and the petioles are thickened and short, this is a sign of a nematode. At the same time, the plant is dug up, treated with boiling water and removed from the site.

After pruning, old mulch is removed from the beds. The soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered.

The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 centimeters. The bushes are sprucing up.

In this case, the roots should be completely covered, and the upper part of the bush should remain above the ground. This is especially true for plants that have been growing for several years, since their root system begins to protrude above the ground.

For feeding, mineral fertilizers with an admixture of microelements are used. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer is suitable for this. garden strawberries, Fertika, ammophoska.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 6 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It crumbles on top. It will improve the soil structure and make it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken droppings(15 parts water and 1 part litter). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. That's why this type fertilizing is not used so often.

In dry weather, the beds are watered. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better effect you can use drip irrigation. This type of irrigation will allow you to get required quantity moisture and at the same time the plants do not rot, since the soil does not become waterlogged.

The soil around the bushes is mulched with chopped grass, peat, and straw.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful strawberry harvest next year, proper care is required. The last month of summer is best suited for this.

Care includes:

pruning leaves,
mustache transplant,
preparing plants for winter.

Old leaves are cut off. If varieties grow in groups, they are processed first early varieties. Then come the averages and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and will not allow them to outgrow, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustache is cut off at a distance of 10 centimeters from the base of the bush. After pruning, young foliage and the core (horns) remain on the bush.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this purpose, the strongest specimens are selected, and the weak ones are removed.

For better yield, after harvesting, the strongest tendril remains on the bush. A new mother bush will grow from it to replace the old one. This operation is performed every three years.

And the spots are treated with therapeutic and preventive spraying of strawberries.

For spraying the following preparations are used: Karbofos or Actellik, this is protection against weevils and strawberry mites; Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew; one percent lime solution and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds.

Feeding with fertilizers

For fertilizers, fertilizers with nitrogen are taken ( strong solution urea is not suitable).
Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All of these preparations, in addition to the base, contain other useful material.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Bird droppings are not used to avoid excess nitrogen.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. IN in rare cases when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced over the entire area of the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material, such as spunbond, is used.

Caring for remontant strawberries after picking berries

Remontant strawberries differ from standard varieties in that they produce several harvests per year. Proper care guarantees not only abundant harvests, but also the formation of new bushes, which allows you to quickly grow this variety on the site.

To obtain the second and third good results, the flower stalks must be thinned out.

After each fruiting, reddened and diseased leaves are removed from the bushes. The first order whiskers remain on the mother bush. It is best to root them in prepared cups for further planting. After the end of the season, the cups are collected, the tendrils are cut off from the main bush and they can be planted in prepared beds.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering should be done more often than when watering standard varieties, but less abundantly. For irrigation, it is better to use heated water. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged, otherwise the strawberry root system may begin to rot.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are demanding of fertilizers and must be constantly supplied with potassium and nitrogen. When preparing the soil for planting new plants, phosphorus fertilizers are added.

You should not leave bushes with berries under the snow

After collecting the last autumn harvest It is necessary to cut off all the foliage and flower stalks from the plants and cover the bushes with a special non-woven material that will protect the plants from frost.

Remontant strawberries, in comparison with simple varieties, have a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot. The prepared beds are covered with leaves and grass.

In addition to the standard growing method, remontant strawberries can grow on trellises, columns, and in tunnels.

To protect plants, protective plants, such as corn, are planted on trellises on both sides of the strawberries, which remain overwinter and additionally save the strawberries from freezing.

After the last fruiting, the strawberries are covered with breathable non-woven material, which saves the plantings from freezing. When grown in tunnels, fruiting lasts until the first frost.

During the warm period of Indian summer, the covering material is raised on one side for air circulation. Even when temperatures drop under the material, strawberries fully ripen and do not lose their taste.

And remontant, and this especially applies to the period after fruiting, as the plants become depleted, grow and may begin to hurt.

With careful and careful care, the yield increases, the size of the berries of even small varieties becomes larger, the fruits are saturated with moisture and sweetness.

And in every region, even quite cool ones, you can choose suitable option, which will delight you with a tasty and aromatic harvest.

Remontant varieties lay buds during neutral and long daylight hours. When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the NSD or DSD labeling, this will help you adhere to certain growing recommendations.

Remontant strawberries are distinguished by the fact that they can bloom and bear fruit repeatedly throughout the spring and autumn season. It is characterized by weaker foliage than garden strawberries, as well as fragility, the reason for which is the constant overload of crops. The plant requires more careful care, frequent watering, fertile soil. The best varieties of remontant strawberries: Albion, Lyubava, Queen Elizabeth II, Lord, Honey, Vima Rina, Selva and others.

Ability to tie large fruits DSD bushes persist for no more than two years, then the berries become smaller, and growing strawberries no longer becomes advisable. NSD strawberries have an accelerated development cycle; they are grown for only one season. In addition, the crop is divided into large-fruited, which produces crops twice per season, and small-fruited, which continuously bears fruit until frost.

The first harvest of such strawberries coincides in timing with the early garden varieties of KSD. The second time fruiting occurs in August, the third - in the fall. As a rule, the yield of large-fruited strawberries in percentage terms is expressed as follows: 30% of berries in spring, 70% in summer. Many gardeners sacrifice the first berries and cut off the flower stalks, ensuring an earlier, richer second fruiting.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

Propagation by seeds

The culture is propagated different ways: seeds, mustaches, dividing bushes. Some small-fruited varieties that do not form a mustache are grown from seedlings from seeds. In addition, this method preserves the purity of the variety.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds:

In February, soak the seed in snow water for three days, remembering to change it regularly;
Prepare the seed boxes by filling them with a mixture of leaf humus (50%), garden soil (25%), sifted sand (25%). It is advisable to cover the bottom of the containers with a layer of broken bricks. Then moisten the soil well;
Since the seeds are very small, simply crush the surface of the soil with them, press lightly, and sprinkle with a spray bottle. Cover with film, keep the room temperature +20-25 o C;
When seedlings appear, move the containers to a lighted, sunny place. Do not allow the soil to dry out, ventilate the plantings regularly;
After two weeks, pick up the seedlings, maintaining a distance of 3 cm between them;
In early May, plant seedlings in beds that have been previously cleared of weeds and filled with compost.

Reproduction by mustache

If you plan to expand your strawberry plantations by rooting the growing tendrils, then get ready to sacrifice the berries of the second harvest. It is best to plant new beds in July-August; this will allow the bushes to take root well and ensure an excellent harvest next year. Propagation by means of a mustache directly in the garden is the simplest and most easy way by labor costs.

During fruiting, note the most developed and strong annual bushes with smooth, large berries. Select only the first tendrils and place them in small grooves along the side of the bed. Simply cut off all other tendrils that appear so that they do not weaken the mother bush. Soon sprouts will appear on the mustache and begin to take root. For propagation, leave the first rosettes: cut off the ends of the second-order tendrils, but do not separate them from the mother plant.

In the future, constantly loosen, weed and water the plantings. In August, a week before moving the young bushes to a new place, cut off the tendrils connecting them to the mother bushes. The best predecessors are traditionally onions or garlic. Plant the plants in rows every 35 cm with a row spacing of 50 cm. The growing point should be level with the ground, compact the soil, and water it with water.

Reproduction by dividing bushes

Dividing bushes is an emergency method that is used when insufficient quantities seedlings or in cases where you urgently need to move the planting to a new location. For propagation, two- and four-year-old plants are taken, selecting well-developed specimens with a healthy root system. At this age, the bush usually consists of 30-40 small shoots-horns.

Each horn has a rosette of leaves, apical and several lateral buds, as well as adventitious roots. Dig up such plants in the spring or early autumn, divide them into horns and plant them in a permanent bed. Water every day for the first time of planting. If the weather is hot, the seedlings should be shaded.

How to care for remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberries mainly involves regular loosening and watering. Loosening the soil enriches root system oxygen, so necessary for the full development of the bush and the formation of the crop. During the fruiting period, the plantings are not weeded or loosened. Weeds growing in the garden, of course, reduce the quantity and quality of berries, so they get rid of them.

The formation of berries and their further ripening is impossible without sufficient moisture: its lack can lead to the absence of ovaries or the formation of ugly fruits. Keep the soil under the plants moist throughout the season.. Mulching the soil between the bushes will help reduce watering, as well as minimize labor costs for weeding and loosening.

Be sure to remove reddening leaves - this event rejuvenates the bushes. In addition, to get large, sweet berries, periodically trim the buds of the mustache after the first formed rosette. (This strawberry variety tends to bear fruit on young rosettes formed from rooted tendrils). In the first year in the spring, strawberries need to be fed: 15 grams. ammonium nitrate, 15 g. potassium sulfate, 30 gr. superphosphate per square meter.

As winter approaches, reduce watering and perform sanitary pruning of diseased leaves and tendrils. Remontant strawberries must experience frost, after which they are covered with non-woven material. The beds are also covered with a variety of mulch: fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. If this is the last fruiting season, then the old bushes need to be removed from the site before the first snow.

Remontant strawberries have moved from exotic to the category of traditional crops and are increasingly found in gardeners’ beds. But many grow it according to the usual scheme, ignoring the term “remontant”. However, it has a number distinctive features and is not an ordinary garden strawberry.

What are the features of remontant strawberries?

To know how to properly grow remontant strawberries, you need to have an idea of how they differ from ordinary strawberries (garden strawberries). Strawberries form a harvest once a year, since they lay fruit buds during short daylight hours (closer to the end of summer). And its remontant variety is capable of more: it can form buds during a long daylight hours (DSD varieties) or during a neutral day, when day and night have the same duration (NSD varieties).

Growing remontant strawberries (RSD) is designed to produce a double harvest: the first berries appear at the end of June, then a break will follow and the second wave will take place in August-September. A more abundant yield of berries is observed in the second period (60-90% of the total harvest). Not the strongest bushes become depleted and die after fruiting if not properly cared for.

Fruit buds can also form on the few tendrils of the first year of life, but if film is used as mulch, the tendrils will not be able to take root and additional “income” will not be obtained during cultivation.

Important! The lifespan of remontant strawberries is only two years, which is much less compared to ordinary garden strawberries.

Gardeners with extensive experience try to select more resistant and strong varieties for cultivation that are easy to care for.

The berries are not gigantic in size and weigh from 20 to 75 g, but the bush is strewn with them abundantly. Small-fruited varieties are more unpretentious: they can withstand both heat and frost. They do not produce mustaches, due to which the technology for growing remontant strawberries is greatly simplified. And caring for them is much easier.

When purchasing any remontant variety, you should consider

they bear fruit all summer or only twice per season;
what methods of reproduction are available;
growing features;
resistance to pests and diseases.

Convenient for growing remontant strawberries in open ground hybrid varieties. They practically do not get sick and are rarely affected by pests, have high productivity, and are unpretentious in care. But since hybrids (marked F1 on the package) were obtained by crossing different varieties, it is not advisable to use them for subsequent propagation: the yield will be extremely low.

Advice! If you want to enjoy fresh berries in the fall, remove the spring flower stalks. In cases where mustaches are needed for propagation, the peduncles of the second harvest are removed.

Planting remontant strawberries

This is the first and most important point when growing. Correctly selected place and soil, timely planted mustaches are the key to successful settlement of strawberries in the beds. If all techniques are carried out correctly, and care is thought out taking into account the characteristics of remontant varieties, then success is guaranteed.

Preparing for landing

Growing remontant strawberries begins with preparing the soil. Regardless of whether planting will be done in spring or autumn, the soil is prepared in advance by adding humus and superphosphate (according to the instructions) for digging.

Strawberries prefer fertile, well-drained soil. If the soil is “heavy”, then be sure to dilute it with peat, sand, humus and create drainage, otherwise the roots of the berry crop will rot.

In spring, bushes are planted in mid-May, and in autumn - from mid-August to September. Late boarding will destroy the plants, as they will not have time to take root before the first frost.

Comment! Usually strawberries are planted in the fall: this way they will quickly grow in the spring and produce their first harvest with proper care the following year.

Planted in the spring, it will also bear fruit, but not as abundantly.

Landing Features

The optimal way to arrange the whiskers (future bushes) is the nesting method. With this type of planting of remontant strawberries, care is greatly simplified. But some gardeners find it most convenient to arrange plants in a carpet at a distance of 20x20 cm. As they grow, strawberries occupy free space and during cultivation a carpet of red berries is obtained.

The row method is easy to care for, when the distance between bushes is 20-25 cm, and between rows up to 70 cm. Plants planted in rows look more neat and are easier to process.

The landing sequence is as follows:

according to the most convenient scheme, dig holes to a depth of 10-15 cm;
the depth may be greater or less depending on the size of the seedling;
a “hump” of soil is made inside the hole, on which the roots are laid out and straightened;
the hole is filled up, compacting the soil;
the root collar or “heart” is placed at soil level and cannot be buried;
The bush is watered abundantly and mulched with peat, straw, and sawdust.

You can add rotted manure or “Agrovit” and “Fertika” containing phosphorus and potassium to the hole. A month later, the plants are fed with the microbiological preparation “Extrasol” and the stimulant “Novosil”, which relieves stress in unfavorable weather conditions and helps the plant adapt during cultivation.

Comment! With the row planting method, it is advisable to plant garlic along the rows, which will protect the berry crop from slugs.

Most often, remontant strawberries are propagated by mustaches. If the number of whiskers is insignificant, then you can divide the bush into several equal parts. The seed propagation method is also possible, but the seeds are small, take a long time to germinate, and the bush forms slowly. In addition, propagation by seeds does not guarantee the preservation of the varietal qualities of the mother plant.

Basic techniques for caring for DSD varieties

How to grow remontant strawberries? Eat general rules care, typical for any strawberry crops, but there are some peculiarities.

Loosening the soil should be carried out regularly, especially after watering or rain. Loosening is necessary to provide air access to the roots of the plants. This technique is carried out carefully: you must not damage the root system or newly rooted mustache (if you need to preserve it). When mulching, loosening is not necessary: the soil under the mulch layer remains moist and loose.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering with warm, settled water is very important. This care is especially important during the period of fruit ripening, when the climate is very hot. The soil should not dry out, and moisture should be kept 2-3 cm deep, otherwise the berries will be small or begin to crumble. If the surface is covered with mulch, then such frequent watering is not necessary.

It is most convenient to fertilize during watering. To do this, grind the herbs of wormwood, yarrow and nettle, add water and leave for 7 days until the composition ferments. This is good nutrition during the period of growing and caring for remontant strawberries, as it contains a set of microelements necessary for the plant. An infusion of bird droppings (1:15) or an infusion of mullein (1:10) is useful.

Caring for remontant strawberries also includes removing the mustache. There are varieties that produce almost no mustache, while others produce a lot of them. They weaken the bush, reduce the yield, and do not allow the plant to grow stronger.

During the growing season, gardeners regularly remove excess shoots. If necessary, leave 1-2 strong young specimens from the mother plant to renew the plantation next year. Reddening leaves are also removed, which helps rejuvenate the bush during cultivation and is one of the techniques for caring for a remontant crop.

Advice! Since plantings are renewed every 2 years, the strawberry bushes should be placed freely so that there is room for the growth of mustaches that will replace the mother plant.

During cultivation, remontant strawberries are not spared by pests and diseases. More often berry crop sick

gray rot, which is a fungal infection and “attacks” bushes in cool and humid weather;
powdery mildew, similar to white coating in the form of a web and also related to mushroom “misfortunes”;
brown spotting - fungal disease, affecting old leaves, on which bright brown spots are clearly visible.

If signs of the disease are noticed, remove infected foliage or berries and treat if necessary. chemicals. Of the pests, strawberries most often suffer from the strawberry mite, which is removed with a Karbofos solution after harvesting.

Warning! Insecticides should not be applied to flowering plants.

The first treatment occurs during the formation of young foliage, the second is carried out during the formation of inflorescences, and the third is possible after harvesting. The drugs need to be changed, since both pests and microorganisms can get used to them.

When growing DSD varieties in open ground, the second harvest does not always have time to “give off the berries” in full. Cold weather sets in and the fruit-bearing plant goes under the snow with berries. The plants remain unprepared for winter, and it is no longer possible to collect the crop remaining on the branches.

In the northern regions, remontant strawberries are grown in protected soil (under a film), so the first fruiting occurs earlier and the second wave of berries has time to ripen. This type of care is called “growing in tunnels,” when in August a breathable covering material is stretched over the beds using arcs. Due to the heat, fruiting extends until October.

How to prepare berries for winter

How to care for remontant strawberries before the onset of cold weather? Autumn care and care for red berries in the fall are no less important than during the growing season. The following activities are carried out:

Tired of summer period plants need to be fed using complex fertilizers. This will give the bushes strength for spring growth and make subsequent care easier.
At the end of summer, all peduncles of remontant strawberries are pruned. Before the onset of cold weather, the berries do not ripen, and the plant uses forces to form them.
Before frost, the soil around the holes is loosened, mixed with a mulch layer. Then sprinkle a fresh layer of mulch on top: rotted leaves, humus, sawdust.
After the onset of cold weather, remontant strawberries are pruned, during which the leaves are completely removed, leaving the petioles at a height of 2 cm from the soil surface.
During the same period, the plantation is covered for the winter with spruce branches, leaves, and mown grass. This is an important point in care, which allows the remontant bushes and roots not to freeze in the cold.

Such preparation methods relate to the peculiarities of growing remontant strawberries. They will help the berry crop survive the winter and begin the second season in the spring with renewed vigor. During the spring, the berry crop will grow, become stronger and be able to once again please its owners with a harvest of aromatic berries.

Growing, caring for, and pruning remontant strawberries in the fall can be seen in the video:

Basic techniques for caring for NSD varieties

Caring for remontant strawberries of NSD varieties has its own characteristics. Let's start with the fact that the bushes will have to be replaced annually; they are not able to bear fruit for years. Since it produces berries throughout the entire season from spring to autumn, the bush ages quickly. And the next year, an inexperienced gardener, when growing a remontant variety, will find on the bushes of the second year small berry, which is not related to care.

Therefore, it is worth considering another option on how to care for remontant strawberries NSD:

in August, young plants of a certain variety (or several varieties as desired) are planted: before winter they will take root well and become stronger;
after planting, if there are flowers or ovaries on the bushes, they should be removed, which will ensure next year’s harvest;
The remontant crop bears fruit from May until frost, so fresh berries will be on the table throughout the growing season;
in August, shoots are taken from each mother bush and a new berry plantation is created;
old plants are removed after the fruiting period ends (on the eve of frost);
young bushes are mulched and covered with straw, spruce branches, and leaves on top to make wintering comfortable.

Important! Never leave bare soil under strawberry bushes.

It is necessary that the soil is mulched. For the winter, you can cover it with green manure grown over the summer, which is another care technique.

Productive and cost-effective cultivation of remontant strawberries is possible with timely care, pruning, mulching, and preparation for winter.

Agrotechnics of care when growing on a trellis

It has become popular to grow remontant strawberries on a trellis. It is decorative, unusual, and the harvest can be harvested just like on a plantation. Near the gazebo, along the path, near the hedge, it will come in very handy, but this option requires special care.

The technology for growing remontant strawberries on a trellis is as follows:

Polypropylene mesh is used for climbing plants(it is sold at any garden center). It is durable, stretches and fastens well, and is cut to the required length.
After securing the trellis, a row is dug along it up to 40 cm deep and bushes are planted every 50 cm.
After the first rosettes bloom, tendrils form and are lifted onto a trellis. They are fixed and 5-6 mustaches are left on each mother plant. So the hedge turns green, the mustache begins to bloom and bear fruit. The result is a fragrant red wall of berries.
IN autumn time Root one rosette between the old bushes in order to “revive” the trellis next year. The young plants will produce new tendrils that will grow and form a new living wall.
During the growth period, fertilizing is important, since the berry crop spends energy not only on the formation of fruits, but also on the growth of rosettes. Special fertilizers for fruit and berry crops, based on humic acids, vitamins, and microelements, are suitable as fertilizers. The lack of nutrients is noticeable in the condition of the strawberries.
Watering is carried out after picking berries in the morning. It must be regular, since moisture is needed no less than the addition of nutrients.

The berries of “trellis” strawberries have excellent taste and excellent presentation, they do not often suffer from gray rot, and are not contaminated with soil. Remontant varieties are grown in one place on a trellis for no more than 5 years. Then you should change the location to a new one and resume planting. With this care, the site will always have a wall covered with greenery and red berries.

It is practiced to grow remontant strawberries “in columns” or dense plastic bags with holes. The appearance of such a column is very unusual and decorative. But this technology and care rules should be studied separately or talked to gardeners who grow strawberries in this way.

It is advisable for strawberry lovers to try the DSD and NSD varieties on their plot, try growing them on a trellis, in order to enjoy the harvest of berries all year round and decorative design plot.

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Remontant varieties of strawberries are in demand among all lovers of this plant. This is due to the ability to obtain several harvests per year from one bush. The first harvest in this case will ripen in July. The largest harvest can be obtained at the end of summer - it is at this time that from 60 to 90% of the berries fall. Such strawberries are easily grown on the balcony, in pots and can bear fruit with proper care all year round at home.

What are remontant strawberries and how are they different from others?

Remontability is the ability of some plants to bloom and produce crops several times a year. After the first ripening of the fruits, flower buds are formed again. Such bushes often have a weaker leaf system, but the berries are very large.

Peculiarities! If the second harvest is more important, it is worth sacrificing the first. To do this, it is enough to trim the first flower stalks. This technique will preserve the bush’s ability to produce abundant fruit at the end of summer.

Remontant strawberries are grown in greenhouses, and even on the balcony. This way you can get abundant and constant fruiting even from 2 - 3 bushes growing in pots.

Features of remontant garden strawberries

Fruits are set not only on mother plants, but also on young plants;
Most varieties are large-fruited (all fruits are from 50 to 100 grams);
Rapid aging of bushes;
Some large-fruited varieties may have smaller berries next year.

To ensure constant fruiting throughout the season, it is worth combining remontant and regular varieties.

Photo of remontant strawberries

Queen Elizabeth 2

Alexandri

Baron Solemacher

Types of remontant strawberries

The repairability of garden strawberries directly depends on the time when buds are laid on the bushes. More precisely, on the length of daylight hours. In most varieties, buds are laid in the fall. At this time, daylight hours are shortened. In remontant varieties, flower buds are formed regardless of the length of daylight hours. In the same year, by the end of summer, the bushes bear fruit for the second time.

Reference! Remontant strawberries form flower buds even during neutral daylight hours. These are the so-called NSD varieties.

For remontant varieties, the stages of care should be calculated for a modified growing season.

Long daylight hours

Remontant long-day strawberries lay flower buds when the daylight hours are 16 hours.

This occurs in mid-May - early June. At this time, the formation of the ovary occurs simultaneously.

This is the kind of strawberry that can produce 2 harvests. The first fruiting occurs in June, and the second at the end of summer.

Attention! DSD varieties during the second harvest are capable of producing up to 90% of the annual harvest. This is possible if the bushes are mature and strong.

It's worth remembering that With each subsequent season, plant productivity decreases. To do this, you will need to frequently update the bushes to be young and strong.

Short daylight hours

These are varieties in which flower buds are formed in the fall. This allows you to get a harvest early fruits already in June. It is easy to propagate because mature bushes have many tendrils. But, as a rule, they are less common than remontant varieties.

With and without mustaches

According to the method of propagation, remontant strawberries are divided into:

With a mustache;
Without mustache (or mustacheless varieties).

The most convenient way to propagate strawberries is with a mustache. It begins to produce a harvest within a few months after planting. Beardless strawberries are less common because they can reproduce exclusively by seeds.

Peculiarities! Bearded varieties are more resistant to diseases and insects. They look neat in the garden because they don’t grow.

Landing

Features of growing remontant varieties:

For planting, it is best to choose open, sunny areas;
Fertile, well-loosened soil.

It is grown by pre-sowing seedlings. This is done in February or early March. In May, after the risk of late frosts disappears, the stronger seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Peculiarities! To obtain good harvest, the land on the site needs to be prepared in the fall. Mineral and organic fertilizers are added to the soil and then dug deep.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

To save as long as possible beneficial features remontant varieties of strawberries, propagation by mustaches is best suited. But this is not always possible, since some varieties do not have a mustache at all. The only way to get young plants is to grow seedlings.

Seeds

This is the most the hard way growing remontant strawberries. But it allows you to get a large number of young and healthy bushes.

In the case of alpine, or beardless garden strawberries, this is practically the only method of propagation.

To propagate by seeds, it is worth collecting the largest and sweetest berries of the variety you like. From them you can get seeds, which are planted for seedlings in late February or early March.

Usami

Propagation by tendrils produces many young plants throughout the season.

This is especially important for remontant varieties that quickly age and require replacement.

To do this, you need to carefully observe the appearance of sockets. Only 2 - 3 of them are left on the mustache, as close as possible to the mother bush.

Attention! Weak tendrils need to be removed promptly, as they weaken an actively fruiting plant.

In other ways

There is another method vegetative propagation remontant strawberries. This could be dividing bushes. It is used only when there is an urgent need to obtain seed. For propagation, only strong and healthy bushes can be used.

Attention! This method of propagation is not suitable for all remontant varieties.

Care

Abundant fruiting twice a season greatly exhausts the bushes. Because of this, plants need especially careful care. It needs to start in early spring, after the snow has melted. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully inspect the beds. If there are exposed fibrous roots, they need to be spudded. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with small sawdust.

Watering

Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.

The top layer of soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried soil “crust”.

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Or you can water the plants with a hose, simulating rain.

Transfer

Replanting in autumn is especially important for large-fruited varieties.

After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequently moving to a new area will also prevent pests living in the soil from accumulating.

Peculiarities: It is advisable to carry out the transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for winter.

For this:

Dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet, remove all roots of weeds;
Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams to the ground phosphorus fertilizer per square meter;
Harrow with a rake and leave the area for 14 days;
Mark the area, then dig holes up to 20 centimeters deep;
Transfer the plants into the holes using the transshipment method and cover with soil;
Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After this, the bed with the transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

Top dressing

Bushes of remontant varieties are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting during the season. To correct the situation, liquid fertilizer is used:

Urea;
Bird droppings;
Slurry.

It is applied in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering

Preparation for winter includes:

Trimming dry leaves and tendrils;
Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the harvest. If there is a risk of early cooling in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. The bushes can be watered without removing the cover.

Features of growing in open ground

Remontant strawberries have their own special agrotechnical conditions:

Particular sensitivity to soil quality and watering;
The growth cycle of remontant varieties is a maximum of 2-3 years;
The best neighbors for strawberries are carrots, garlic, peas, lettuce, radishes and beans.

It is not advisable to plant remontant varieties of garden strawberries next to potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Peculiarities! Garlic planted between the strawberry beds will protect the crop from slugs or snails.

Popular varieties

The most common varieties of remontant strawberries:

There are also hybrid varieties designed for growing in greenhouses or on the balcony.

Why doesn't it bloom or bear fruit?

But what if the strawberries don’t bear fruit? These may be the following reasons:

Degeneration of plants. After a maximum of 3 years, the plants stop blooming. This leads to the need to renew the bushes every 2 - 3 years.
Too late replanting in open ground in the fall. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to adapt. Next year the flowering will be very weak and the berries will be small;
Excessive penetration into the ground during planting. This leads to a sharp decrease in the number of berries;
Lack of nitrogenous compounds. Leads to weakening of leaves. Effective prevention in this case is regular watering. aqueous solution ammonia;
Lack of sunlight. This leads to weakening of the bushes, which means a decrease in yield.

Another one common reason– these are late frosts in May. To avoid this trouble, you need to cover the beds with film or spunbond.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

Remontant varieties are best suited for growing on the balcony.

This allows you to get a large harvest from 2 - 3 bushes. Climbing and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following stages:

Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutrient mixture or prepare it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted.
Planting in a permanent place. Strengthened seedlings are transplanted into hanging planters, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as in open ground. In October - November, flowerpots or baskets can be left on a glassed, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering is required; no feeding is necessary. This will provide the plant with proper rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for the next year.

Diseases and pests

The most common diseases of garden strawberries:

Powdery mildew;
Black rot;
Gray and white rot;
Root rot;
Withering;
Mottling;
Mosaic.

Another problem is insects:

The best control measure is timely prevention.

It includes regularly replanting bushes and planting plants with an unpleasant odor for insects next to the beds. Severely affected plants are also removed to prevent the problem from spreading.

Conclusion

Remontant strawberries are able to bear fruit throughout the season - from May to October. But this pace greatly weakens the bushes, which is why these varieties require especially careful care. The life cycle of remontant bushes is quite short. It does not exceed 2–3 years, and some bushes die immediately after harvest.

Useful video

Find out more about remontant strawberry varieties from the video below: