How to feed rhododendron in spring. Rhododendrons: what you need for abundant flowering

LANDING AND CARE

Landing... Everyone who is engaged in or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most suitable time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic is spring (April - first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when the young shoots have finished growing and have grown stronger. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding flowering periods and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of time for transplanting rhododendrons is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, during transplantation, the root system is practically not damaged, the connection between the roots of plants and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the planting site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow as well as in the old one. Long-term plantings should only be planted with healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system. In group plantings, the distance between the plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be allocated for planting them, and it is best to be guided by a landscaping project developed by specialists. The site for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be properly prepared.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root comas of the rhododendrons to be transplanted are dry, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, you should carefully prepare the soil. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then a planting pit of the required size is prepared for each plant or each small group, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary that all the named components be present; you can get by with several or even one material, for example, peat. 1/2 of the hole is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the hole. A complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of the substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Stirring can be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The planting site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and the rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. 15.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - the rhododendron is planted too shallow; 2 - the rhododendron is planted too deep; 3 - correctly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared hole, a cell is dug, corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and the plant is planted in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and on top of the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplantation, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants are 30-40 cm in height, after transplanting, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water is required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water spreading during watering, a small roller of mulch is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak leaves, and other organic materials, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil, can be used as mulch.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that the plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left so that the beauty of the planted plant can be appreciated during flowering.

For solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shatter the plants that have not yet rooted, it is necessary to stick a stake inclined against the direction of the prevailing winds into the soil and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

With proper care, rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit abundantly every year. Plants consume a lot of nutrients during flowering and seed formation. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate this frequency, if seeds are not needed, the faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and plant flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break off a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent, holding it with the thumb and forefinger. In this case, the fragile axis of the inflorescence easily breaks at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be done carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing the faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that one without a flower bud.

Top dressing... In order for rhododendrons to bloom abundantly and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not be damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require feeding, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners, at best, used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully use mineral fertilizers for feeding rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material for rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations in a permanent place also need feeding. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, are trying to accelerate the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow-growing plants with a superficial compact root system, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of specialists of the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University named after P. Stuchki and foreign experts, rhododendrons should be fertilized in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the transplanted plants have taken root. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What are the external signs of rhododendrons indicate a lack of nutrients? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their shine decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds are not laid, in August and early September, there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and widespread of organic fertilizers are old, semi-rotten manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-ripe cow dung not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability, and its water retention capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn meal are of great value, which are distinguished by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process lasts longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for feeding. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water until it is light brown in color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. Fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before feeding, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball is soaked to the full depth.

If there is semi-rotted manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the soil surface around each plant in a layer about 5 cm thick.With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate into the soil, and the plants receive the necessary fertilizing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then you should focus on inorganic fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, therefore, with a small amount of them, many nutrients necessary for plants are introduced into the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, calcium sulfate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for feeding, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (the solution of potash fertilizers should be even weaker). Chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used to feed rhododendrons. You need to start feeding the plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient moisture, soil and air, secondary growth of shoots can be caused. Young shoots, which started to grow late, manage to finish their growth by the end of the growing season, and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumn, secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. It can be suspended by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it for 10 liters of water, take 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4. A solution is obtained that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required range (2-7) ...

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m 2 of area or for one plant with a height of 1 m, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow melts and the soil thaws (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, approximately at the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is halved.

Feeding can be carried out a little differently: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied immediately after the rhododendrons flow out. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown on 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is introduced per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with solutions of mineral fertilizers is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for feeding indoor rhododendrons. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is desirable to water the plants with potassium-phosphorus buffer solution 1-2 times more.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, therefore, fertilizing them is discussed in the section describing the reproduction of rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)

The first time you hear the name of a flower - rhododendron, it is hard to even imagine how delicate and quivering this plant is. In order to grow it in a summer cottage, you will have to create all the necessary conditions for its flowering. If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in prepared soil and mulched, then caring for them becomes much easier. In today's article, we will consider all the necessary conditions for growing rhododendrons, as well as get acquainted with the most popular types of these flowers.

Suitable lighting and temperature

Rhododendron reacts poorly to direct rays of the sun and strongly illuminated areas of the earth, their lot is shade and partial shade.

Advice: In order to understand whether the lighting is suitable for a given flower, it is enough to look at its leaves. With optimal lighting, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are healthy, dark green, they are very decorative not only in summer, but also in winter, but if there is too much light, then the flower petals become faded.

Rhododendron bushes in nature can be found, as a rule, in mountainous areas, therefore it is not surprising that it is there that the ideal ratio between temperature and humidity level is preserved for them.

Rhododendron bushes are practically insensitive to temperature extremes - if you properly prepare for the winter season, then this plant will survive the most severe winter, without digging up. In the summer, the optimum temperature is 18-25 degrees, if the summer is hot, then you should be very careful about watering and additional spraying of the plant.

Optimal watering

A rhododendron plant should not lack moisture, especially in the first year after planting. There is absolutely no need to pour the bushes, an excess of moisture is also not suitable for this plant, it is better to water it a little, but constantly. A huge role for irrigation is played by the quality of the water with which the plant is watered, it must be soft, rainwater or water from a clean reservoir is also suitable.

In dry weather, the plant should be helped by regular spraying, especially during the period of active growth, if there is even the slightest suspicion that they are experiencing a water shortage.

Advice: In order to understand that the rhododendron flower does not have enough moisture, you need to pay attention to the leaves, they become dull and droop, brown spots appear at the edges, similar to fungal diseases.

Soil and planting site

When choosing a place for planting, you should pay attention to the shade of this area and to the trees that will be in the neighborhood. It should also be borne in mind that it must be protected from prevailing winds and direct sunlight. It is best for them in wooded areas, especially under pines and not very dense spruces. If there are no such trees on the site, then areas directly adjacent to the northern walls of the house and other buildings are perfect.

As for the soil, it must be acidic, air and moisture permeable. Optimal composition: high moor peat (sour), garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts.

Feeding rhododendrons

The rhododendron plant needs feeding before flowering, immediately after it and in late summer - early autumn. There is no need to invent anything special here, in any store for a gardener you can find ready-made soluble fertilizers for rhododendrons, 20-30 grams per 1 liter of water will be more than enough for one plant, you can add 5-10 grams of any nitrogen fertilizer to it.

Reproduction of rhododendrons

Rhododendrons can be propagated in different ways: by seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting. Amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative layering method. For this, young flexible shoots are rooted next to the mother plant. At the same time, the inclined shoot partially fits into a hole no shallower than 15 cm deep. Already in the next season, you can safely dig out this new bush and transplant it to a suitable place.

For grafting, take semi-lignified shoots, cut them into cuttings 5-8 cm long, remove the lower leaves, leave 2-3 upper leaves completely. Rhododendrons take root rather hard, so it is better to hold the cuttings in a solution of growth stimulants for 12-16 hours. Then the cuttings are ready for rooting.

Preparing the plant for winter

In winter, the rhododendron needs special care. Even in autumn, you should carefully monitor watering, it should not be less than 12-13 liters of water at a time, then, before the first frosts, the bushes should be wrapped in burlap and fixed with twine, such a simple method will not disturb the flow of air to the plant. You can remove this shelter only when the night frosts have passed.

Advice: in spring, no less than frost should be wary of the dining sun. So for this procedure, you should choose a cloudy day so as not to harm the immature plant.

Preparing the plant for winter

The most popular types of rhododendrons:

o Japanese rhododendron

o Schlippenbach's Rhododendron

o Rhododendron pink "Percy Weissman"

o Rhododendron white

Rhododendron is an artisanal plant with a spiral leaf arrangement and pink flowers collected in an inflorescence. For normal development, the formation of beautiful and lush flowers, protection from pests, proper nutrition with organic or mineral fertilizers, produced in early spring and in the middle of summer, is recommended.

For a long time, there was a consensus that mineral fats are generally not suitable for this kind of plants. Sometimes, gardeners decided to introduce organic matter in the form of decomposed manure. Over time, experiments were carried out on the mineral nutrition of rhododendrons, during which it was concluded that it is impossible to obtain high-quality planting material without their use.

Signs of nutritional deficiencies

The first sign of a plant nutrient deficiency is a change in the color of the leaves and shoots. Saturated green color becomes light or yellow-green, shine disappears. If the plant still does not receive vitamins, minerals and water, then such conditions affect the growth, the laying of flower buds, early and intensive fall of old leaves (August - September).

The only way out in the fight against this ailment is to feed the plants. It can be organic or mineral. At the discretion of the gardener, an annual feeding is made with one of the types of fats, as a result of which there are changes in the development and growth of rhododendrons for the better.

Features of the root system. What tuki cannot be used?

A feature of the root system is the presence of mycorrhiza, a fungus that helps the plant grow and develop on acidic soils, limited in the amount of mineral nutrients (it is in such a soil that the bush likes to grow). Germination of seeds is also impossible without mycorrhiza, but it is he who determines the basic conditions for fertilization and feeding. Fat solutions should not consist of chlorine-containing elements, since mushrooms will die from such fertilization.
When growing shrubs, you should check the acidity of the soil in the spring. If the pH value (pH) is in the range of 4.5-5.5 units, then the diet should be changed using more acidic fertilizers.

Important! Lime, dolomite flour - fertilizers capable of alkalizing the soil. Feeding with these nutrient solutions is not recommended due to a decrease in the acidity of the soil. The result may be yellow spots on the leaves.

Another feature is the compact root system, so when planting the plant, it is recommended to lay a good drainage layer with loose soil and nutrient-rich fertilizers.

If during the first year of life the rhododendron actively grows and develops in connection with the correct planting, then in subsequent years it needs a mandatory recharge, since the reserves of nutrients are gradually depleted in the soil and the level of acidity decreases. Due to the lack of fertilization, the plant may not throw out flower buds or die.

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Basic feeding rules

Fertilizers

Gardeners widely use organic fertilizers in the practice of feeding rhododendron. They are also called manure. But here you should also be careful, because fresh manure will not be beneficial, at best it will burn the plant, at worst it will kill it. Only mature manure should be used, at least one year. Only after that, organic matter will improve the mechanical properties and contribute to an increase in soil nutrition.

Manure should be pre-prepared before being introduced into the ground - diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15 and let it brew for several days.

Mineral fertilizers are another type of feeding that promotes beautiful flowering and rapid growth of rhododendron. In particular, they apply:

Phosphorus oils, which also need to form a solution according to the proportions indicated on the package.
Ammonium sulfate, magnesium, potassium. This type of feeding is great for rhododendrons as it changes the pH downwards.
Nitrogen fertilizers. The most suitable period for their introduction is spring.
Iron chelate. It is used on clay soils to avoid yellowing of the leaves.

All about mineral fertilizers for rhododendron

Usually, mineral fertilizers are concentrated suspensions, the advantage of which is the minimum input into the soil and the maximum saturation of nutrients. Since the favorite habitat of rhododendron is acidic soil, then, accordingly, physiological fats should also be acidic, so as not to disrupt the reaction of the habitat.

Fertilizers commonly used by gardeners include:

Ammonium sulfate, magnesium, potassium, calcium.
Potassium phosphate.
Potassium nitrate.
Superphosphate.
Potassium-phosphorus buffer solution. This is the most effective feeding, since the composition contains the main macronutrients and substances that maintain the pH level that is optimal for rhododendrons (from 2 to 7 pH). Preparation: 10 liters of water + 8 g each of nitric acid and mono-potassium phosphate.
Mineral salt solutions. Their input is possible with single cultivation of bushes. But in case of mass, it is recommended to replace the salt solution with mineral fats in a dry form. Their preparation consists in mixing superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20 g each, as well as ammonium sulfate in a mass of 40 g. 80 g of mineral fertilizers will fall on 1 plant 1 meter high. The resulting dry mixture is scattered over the ground in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. Fat enters the soil layer during rains, where it completely dissolves and nourishes the rhododendron. Re-treatment is recommended after the flowering phase, only the dose should be halved.

During the preparation of the solution, the ratio determined for feeding should be adhered to: mineral fertilizers 1 part and water 2 parts. In the case of using a solution of potash fertilizers, the concentration should be less - 1 part feeding and 1 thousand parts of water.

Taking into account the peculiarities of our climate, where summer and autumn are quite humid and warm seasons, the rhododendron is able to throw out young shoots that do not have time to finish growing and freeze even with the slightest freeze. To resist this process, experts recommend spraying the plant with sulfate or monosubstituted potassium phosphate. This should be a 1% solution. Processing is carried out after the end of the flowering phase.

All about organic fertilizers for rhododendron

Organic fertilizers are the most affordable and cheapest way to nourish shrubs, but provided that the gardener's residence is not in a large metropolis, where it is more difficult to get them.

Horse, pork, cow, poultry manure, horn shavings and blood meal are natural supplements that improve the nutritional value of the soil for shrubs and improve its physical properties.

The most valuable, in relation to organic fertilizers, are horny waste (flour, shavings). They contain a huge amount of nitrogen and phosphorus, and their decomposition period is longer, which affects the lower frequency of organic matter.

As already noted, natural fertilizers should be administered in liquid form. Depending on the type of organic fat, the following solutions are prepared:

Manure. Dilute in the ratio: 1 part of water + 15 parts of manure. After thorough mixing, leave for several days to start microbiological processes (active "bulbs" will appear on the surface).
Slurry. There is no exact ratio, therefore, during the preparation of the solution, one should be guided by the color of the organic matter, diluting it with water. The suspension should take on a light brown color.
Slurry + superphosphate. This tandem of mineral and organic fertilizers will increase the phosphorus content in the soil, which is necessary for active plant growth and healthy development. The approximate ratio is 100 liters of slurry + 3-4 kg of superphosphate.
Semi-ripe manure. Such fertilizer should not be diluted in liquid, but simply spread in spring or autumn over the soil surface under the bush. The thickness of the humus should be at least 5 cm.

Another method of proper feeding

At the first stage, in early spring, nitrogenous fats are introduced in the ratio of 50 g of ammonium sulfate + 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m2 of land. The second - phosphoric and potassium, after the flowering of the shrub, in the ratio of 20 g of potassium sulfate + 20 g of superphosphate + 40 g of ammonium sulfate per 1 m2 of land.

This method is used for growing rhododendrons, both outdoors and indoors.

In conclusion, it can be noted that the choice of fertilizers and the methods of feeding rhododendrons used are at the discretion of the gardener. Depending on the availability of fertilizers, both organic and mineral fertilizers can be used. In any case, for careful and proper care, an artisanal plant will respond with beautiful flowers with lush caps and transparent green leaves.

How to care for a rhododendron

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For a long time, it was believed that rhododendrons grow and develop well without feeding - this opinion was held not only by amateur gardeners, but also by specialists.

The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, as they were believed to be intolerable. But as knowledge of the mineral nutrition of plants expanded, mineral fertilizers began to be used first in nurseries, and then for private plantings.

Nowadays, no one doubts that in order for the rhododendron to grow well and develop correctly, fertilizers are necessary. What's more, recent studies have shown that plants that are better supplied with nutrients are more resistant to low temperatures than those that are "starved."

Determining nutrient deficiencies is not difficult. The most characteristic feature is a change in the color of the leaves - they brighten, fade, the shoots acquire a yellowish-green tint. The annual growth of such plants is very small, the buds are poorly laid, in August - September there is an active fall of old leaves.

Rules for the application of mineral fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons

Since rhododendron loves acidic soil, for its feeding should be used, for the most part, physiological mineral fertilizers in liquid form - ammonium sulfate, calcium sulfate, phosphate and nitric potassium, superphosphate.

It is important to remember that rhododendron has a superficial root system, therefore, only those methods that exclude digging are suitable for fertilizing.

ON THE PICTURE: Fertilizer for azaleas and rhododendrons must be chlorine free

The ratio of the amount of fertilizer to the amount of water should not exceed 1–2: 1000 (or even lower if we are talking about a solution of potash fertilizers). Young plants should be fed with less concentrated fertilizers.

You need to start feeding in early spring (as soon as the snow melts), and stop - in mid-July, otherwise warm weather and sufficient moisture in the soil and air can lead to secondary growth of shoots - in our climate, this phenomenon is observed in some species of rhododendron at the end August - early September. The growth process can be suspended by treating the plants with 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 or 1% solution of potassium sulfate K2S04.

A very good result is given by feeding with mixtures of acid fertilizers: magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate and superphosphate in a ratio of 2: 4: 9: 10. It is recommended to apply such fertilizer in several stages:

in early spring, during the period of bud swelling - at the rate of 100 g of the mixture per 1 m 2;
at the end of flowering - at the rate of 100 g of the mixture per 1 m 2;
at the beginning of July - at the rate of 50 g of the mixture per 1 m 2.

If there is no such mixture, any other complete mineral fertilizer will do, but in this case it will be necessary to add 30% ammonium sulfate.

ON THE PICTURE: Some fertilizers increase the alkalinity of the soil, so you need to regularly monitor its condition.

For azaleas and rhododendrons, there is a general rule of feeding: at the beginning of summer, fertilizers are applied containing more , and from July until the end of flowering - fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and calcium.

Of course, it is better to use ready-made mixtures of mineral fertilizers, fortunately, today their choice is very large. For example, "Kemira for rhododendrons" or "Kemira wagon". It can be used both for liquid feeding, and simply scattered around the bushes at the rate of 100 g per 1 m 2.

An excellent effect is provided by microbiological preparations of the "Shining" series in combination with organic matter. For example, "Shine - 1" + mulch (coniferous litter) or "Shine - 3 + sawdust compost (with the addition of a small amount of cow dung).

The special fertilizer "Azalea" is best suited for this, it comes from different companies. During the budding period, to accelerate flowering, fertilizers such as "Kemira-Lux" or "Uniflor-Bud" are applied, which contain a large amount of potassium and phosphorus, during the growing season - nitrogen-rich "Uniflor-micro". In spring and summer they feed once a week, in autumn and winter - once every 2 weeks.

Organic fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons

Along with mineral, rhododendrons also need organic fertilizers. The most accessible and widespread are semi-rotten cow dung and compost from coniferous litter. Pig and horse manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, since they increase the alkalinity of the soil.

ON THE PICTURE:If the rhododendron is deficient in iron, it can lead to the development of chlorosis.

Important! Remember to check your pH regularly substrate. For heathers, this figure should be in the range of 4.5-5, but not higher. In alkaline soils, mycorrhiza is unable to perform its function, metabolism is disturbed, and the plant is very "starving" even in rich soil.

Organic, as well as mineral, it is desirable to add in liquid form. If you use manure for feeding, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 15–20 and left for 2-3 days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then fertilize the rhododendron.

You can also use slurry after diluting it with water until it is light brown. To increase the content of phosphate in the diluted slurry, it is advisable to add superphosphate to it at the rate of 3-4 kg. for 100 liters. liquids. If you use slurry as a feed for rhododendron, carefully monitor the reaction of the soil, as such fertilization can change the pH level of the substrate. Before feeding, the plant must be well watered in order to properly wet the earthen lump.

ON THE PICTURE: A regularly fertilized rhododendron will appear before you in all its glory - bright, juicy greenery, an abundance of flowers, a lush habit.

From time to time, water your green pets with acidified water - azaleas and rhododendrons love it very much. For acidification, you can use citric or oxalic acid (1.5–2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), table or apple cider vinegar 9% (100 grams per 10 liters of water).

Plant rhododendron (lat.Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including azaleas that are popular in indoor floriculture, which are nicknamed "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses." But azaleas really look like roses.

In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in southern China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in partial shade undergrowth and on the northern slopes of the mountains. Some rhododendrons are capable of growing up to 30 cm in height, while others are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus differ in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. The garden rhododendron today has about 3000 forms, varieties and varieties.

Choosing a place for planting shrubs

The choice of a place for planting a rhododendron is a fundamental moment for its further proper development. The plant is quite capricious, whimsical and has its own requirements for the level of lighting, humidity, soil composition and neighboring plants.

Rhododendrons love good lighting, but at the same time they cannot be exposed to direct rays of the sun for a long time, so light shading should be provided for them.

You cannot plant these plants in too shady places, in this case, the already weak growth slows down, and flowering becomes weak or does not occur at all.

Due to the natural characteristics of rhododendrons, if possible, they should be placed near any body of water (pond, stream, pool). If it is absent, then it is necessary to spray the plant until it blooms, this should be done in the morning or evening using soft and warm water. During flowering, it should be stopped, since the buds and flowers can become covered with brown spots, which will significantly reduce their decorative effect. At this time, you need to increase the number of waterings.

An excellent option would be to plant a rhododendron close to a pine tree. Its root system goes deep into the soil and does not interfere with the good development and flowering of the plant. In doing so, it creates sufficient shading. But maple, alder, linden, willow or birch will severely dry out and take nutrients from the surface layers of the soil, and rhododendron, which has a more modest size, is quite difficult to resist. In such cases, it is recommended to internally insulate the prepared planting pit using a non-woven covering material.

Landing features

The best time to plant rhododendrons is spring. When planting in spring, plants get the opportunity to adapt well and take root in a new place. And you will have the opportunity to admire the first flowering. Plants with a closed root system (in a container) can be planted at a later date.

Landing pits are prepared in advance at the chosen place. The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so even for tall species it is enough to dig a hole about 50 cm deep and 70-80 cm wide.The distance between plants depends on the height and diameter of the crown of the bush and averages from 0.7 to 2 m. Drainage to the bottom pit is required: a layer of broken brick and sand 15-20 cm, if the planting pit is deep, then the drainage layer increases to 30-40 cm and includes fine gravel or crushed stone (but not limestone!).

It should be remembered that in nature rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and permeable soils. Therefore, the garden substrate should be appropriate: a mixture of leafy soil, high peat, coniferous tree litter (3: 2: 1) with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer: 70 g per pit. The optimum soil acidity is 4.5 - 5.0.

Before planting, the root ball of the rhododendron removed from the pot should be well saturated with water. If it is dry, it is immersed in water and the air bubbles are released until it stops. The bush is planted in a pit filled with substrate, making sure that the root collar is not buried, but is 2-4 cm higher than the soil level, taking into account its precipitation. Around the bush, a near-stem hole with raised edges is made and watered abundantly.

Rhododendrons have a shallow, sensitive root system (30-40 cm), which develops mainly in the litter and humus horizon. Therefore, around the planted bushes, it is imperative to pour mulching material that retains moisture, prevents overheating of the soil and the growth of weeds, protects the roots from mechanical damage, and reduces the depth of soil freezing. Pine bark or wood chips, coniferous litter, peat are best suited as mulch, while the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm.

Plant care

A transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, the rhododendron needs spraying over the foliage, especially when planting in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to maintain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, fine hairs, similar to matted hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds growing next to the plant need to be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately inform about the lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules for caring for a crop.

To ensure proper care of the rhododendron, it is important to timely prune the overgrown bushes. Places of cuts to prevent infection of the plant are covered with paint or garden varnish.

Compliance with simple plant care requirements will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush.

Watering rhododendron

The usual watering rate for a rhododendron is 1-1.5 buckets two to three times a week for an adult plant. Young seedlings are watered more often, but not more than 0.5 buckets per 1 bush. During flowering - as often as possible.

If the weather is dry in autumn, plants should also be watered abundantly. This contributes to better overwintering. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are sprayed with water.

The water should be acidified before watering: the pH of the water should be no more than 4-5 units, otherwise the soil is alkalizing, and the rhododendrons begin to hurt. Under such conditions, they are deficient in nitrogen, which manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves. Then they dry up and the plant dies.

For acidification, you can use concentrated sulfuric acid (1 ml per bucket of water) or oxalic, citric, acetic or other organic acids (3-4 g per bucket of water).

A good solution to this problem is to use an electrolyte for acid batteries. 10-20 ml of electrolyte per bucket of water reduces the pH from 7 to 4-5 units (electrolyte is the same sulfuric acid, only diluted, and therefore there is practically no risk of getting burns).

Secondly, using an electrolyte, we not only acidify the soil, but also add one of the vital mineral nutrients for heathers - sulfur.

The soil near the rhododendron bushes should not be loosened, since the root system of rhododendrons lies very close to the surface.

Late spring and early autumn frosts are not dangerous for rhododendrons. Most varieties during the period of active vegetation and flowering are able to withstand a drop in temperature to -7 degrees. Faded inflorescences must be removed. This prevents the formation of seeds, but it allows the plant to use the nutrients to set the buds for flowering next year and for the growth of shoots.

At a young age, the removal of inflorescences causes the formation of new branches and better growth of the bush in width and height. Additional branching can be achieved by removing vegetative buds.

Top dressing of rhododendron.

You need to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted this year, and the first top dressing is applied in early spring, and the last one - at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid feed from half-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then used as fertilizer. Before feeding, the rhododendron is watered.

Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disrupt the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, nitric acid, sulfate or phosphate potassium, calcium sulfate and magnesium in a very weak concentration - 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potassium fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, at the beginning of June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate is added to 1 m² of a plot with rhododendrons and 20 g superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are applied per 1 m².

Pests and diseases of rhododendron.

Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all. Gastropods are collected by hand, and as a preventive measure, rhododendron is treated with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Thiram. Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in case of damage to rhododendron by a weevil, the top layer of the soil will also have to be treated with an insecticide. The rest of the insects are exterminated by karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the preparation.

Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued by fungal diseases - leaf spots, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They arise, as a rule, as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spots and rust are destroyed by preparations of copper sulfate, in particular by Bordeaux liquid. Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove the diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.

Breeding features of the rhododendron shrub

Reproduction of rhododendrons is carried out using cuttings, green cuttings, seeds, or simply by dividing an overgrown bush.

Cuttings are carried out at the beginning of summer. To do this, cut the required number of cuttings about fifteen centimeters long and remove the bottom sheets from them. After that, they are placed for a day in a container with a solution of a growth stimulator. Then they are rooted in the soil substrate, which includes coniferous soil, peat and coarse sand in equal parts. After that, they are covered with glass jars and placed in a bright room with an air temperature of at least twenty-five degrees. After two to three months, the seedlings develop a root system and in the spring they can be planted in the garden at a permanent place of growth.

For this method of reproduction, you need to dig a hole in the spring next to an adult plant to a depth of about fifteen centimeters. Tilt the young shoot, and fix its middle part in the hole, for example, with wire. Then you need to cover it with soil, and tie the upper part to a small stick. Usually, in the fall, the cuttings take root and begin to grow. The next spring, it must be separated from the main plant and transplanted.

An overgrown rhododendron bush can be divided into parts and planted in separate planting pits. With proper care, such plants, after a year, release a large number of young shoots, branch well, quickly gain decorative properties and bloom.

Seed propagation is rarely used. as this is a very complex and lengthy process. The formation of a full-fledged plant and the onset of the first flowering have to wait at least three years, during which time many transplants of young seedlings are made. In addition, if they are not constantly properly cared for, they can become deformed or weakened seedlings.

Outdoor wintering

In order to preserve the rhododendrons during the winter, they need to create an appropriate shelter. First you need to insulate the roots of the plant. To do this, create a protective layer of peat or dry foliage about fifteen centimeters thick. Then arcs are installed over the bushes, and they are tightened with non-woven covering material. After the air temperature settles at minus ten degrees, the shelter is closed with a thick film and again fixed from above with arcs. If possible, you can further cover the structure with snow.

With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed, but this must be done gradually. It can be completely removed only after a good warming up of the soil and preferably on a cloudy day, so that the bright sun does not burn the delicate young leaves. Compliance with these wintering conditions guarantees good growth and very abundant flowering.

Rhododendrons in garden design

Rhododendrons are suitable for any garden style. They look equally good both growing as single specimens and as part of a group composition. Conifers and plants that are common in the wild, such as juniper or fern, can be a good combination for them.

Low-growing species with different flowering periods can be used to decorate alpine slides and rocky gardens. In this case, plantings of rhododendrons are well suited to the neighborhood of heather and gentian.

Taller bushes and trees form hedges. They are used to ennoble garden paths and lawns. In this case, for rhododendrons with yellow flowers, plants with red or bright orange buds are suitable as companions. But specimens with inflorescences of pink or purple color will be effectively shaded by plants with white flowers.

Useful properties of rhododendron

Rhododendron is a very useful plant and its uses are varied. They are grown as decorative flowers and are used in various industries. But some of them are of the most invaluable importance for human health. Rhododendrons of Adams, Daurian, golden, yellow, Caucasian, Ungern are applicable in medicine due to the content of andromedotoxin, rhododendrin, ericolin, arbutin. Long-term studies have shown that the biochemical composition of these plants is enormous.

Ascorbic acid is found in the leaves, an increased concentration of this vitamin is observed in the summer months. The indisputable advantages are the presence of phytoncidal, bactericidal and insecticidal properties of rhododendrons. The tannins of the pyrocatechol group were found in almost all parts. There is no doubt that the plants are unique and many of them have medicinal properties, besides they are used for the production of perfumes, they contain essential oils, they have a strong smell of flowers, leaves and branches.

Means with rhododendron have antipyretic, diaphoretic, analgesic properties. The composition of the leaves is not so harmless - tannins, arbutin, rutin, a poisonous glycoside (andromedotoxin) require special care in their use. Almost all types of rhododendrons choose cliffs, rocky slopes, sandy river banks for habitation. They are harvested during the flowering period, dried under a canopy, laid out in a thin layer.

Contraindications for rhododendron

Rhododendrons are able to cope with diseases, the treatment of which is ineffective in other ways. It is advisable to consult a doctor before use. The beneficial properties of infusions and decoctions will have a beneficial effect only with strict adherence to the dosage! The plant is contraindicated for children, pregnant women, with tissue necrosis, serious renal diseases.

Rhododendron varieties

Highly decorative woody plants, incredibly graceful, rich in color of flowers and splendor of flowering. There are about 1,300 wild-growing species, and more than 600 varieties are used in horticulture. Rhododendrons are extraordinary during flowering. Only a few types of medicinal properties are known.

Daurian rhododendron grows wild in Siberia and the Far East. Its height can reach 2 m, has short leaves, blooms in May. Siberian healers prescribe the infusion of the leaves as a diaphoretic, diuretic, pain reliever. The ability of the infusion to reduce the excitability of the central nervous system, enhance cardiac activity is manifested.

With its help, it is possible to lower blood pressure, it has an expanding effect on the coronary vessels, and regulates shortness of breath. Daurian rhododendron root is used for dysentery. The substances hyperosil, avicularin, azaleatin, resins and essential oils in alcoholic extracts have a depressing effect on the activity of pathogenic bacteria and infections in the human body.

Rhododendron Adams popular among Siberian hunters, the brewed tea from the leaves raises the mood, relieves fatigue, tones up and gives a supply of energy.

The plant has a pleasant aroma, similar to strawberry, after drying, the smell remains. Rhododendron Adams is mentioned in Tibetan treatises as a stimulant plant with tonic and adaptive properties. An essential oil containing farnesene, nerolidol, germacron is present in the leaves.

Young shoots contain ursolic and oleanolic acids, triterpenoids and flavone derivatives. Mongolian doctors recommended the plant for the treatment of cholera, diphtheria and for the destruction of streptococci. Infusions and decoctions are used for external use - washing infected wounds, ulcers, for rinsing the mouth and throat.

Infusion of Rhododendron Adams: pour 1 teaspoon of raw materials with a liter of boiling water, insist for 30 minutes and drink 1/3 cup 3 times a day, before meals.

Japanese rhododendron low bush, winter-hardy. Blooms in May-June. There are many varieties of this species. Parts of the plant contain andromedotoxin, orsellinic acid methyl ester. This type of plant is being studied in detail, while it is used for the manufacture of furniture, joinery and turning products.

Caucasian rhododendron grows in the nature of the Caucasus mountains, it contains glycosides, saponins, tannins. The leaves also contain polysaccharides, ketones, essential oils, phenolic acids. Healers use Caucasian rhododendron as an antirheumatic agent. Bronchitis and infectious diseases are successfully treated. Useful properties of this type in gynecology. Extracts in water in the form of rinsing are effective for gum problems, for the treatment of tonsillitis, stomatitis. The Caucasian rhododendron is an excellent honey plant.

Rhododendron deciduous has many types: Canadian, Ledebour, Japanese, Costerianum, pink, sticky, Vaseya, yellow. During the flowering period, any of them decorates the gardens with bright colors. Incomparable rhododendrons bloom in spring and early summer, enchanting with an abundance of flowers.

Hybrid rhododendron includes many evergreen varieties - Azurro, Homer Vaterer, Katevbinsky, Hackmanns, Bernstein, Brigitte, Golbuket and many others. Shrubs bloom in June.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach grows in the south of the Primorsky Territory, in the countries of East Asia. It is a beautiful deciduous plant that lives in deciduous forests and on dry rocky slopes, it takes root in gardens, although it grows slowly. In addition to the fact that the shrub is incredibly beautiful, it is also a useful medicinal plant that is very much appreciated in Eastern, Tibetan, Indian medicine.

Currently, its narcotic, antispasmodic, hemostatic, astringent action is known. It is used in folk medicine as a stimulant of sexual activity and a diuretic.

Rhododendron pink originally from Canada, winter-hardy, unpretentious. It develops well in both humid and dry climates, belongs to deciduous varieties. Loves bright places, slightly acidic, loose soils. Although the flowers are small, there are many of them and they form a lush cap.

Rhododendron golden, perhaps more often than other types it is used in the treatment of many diseases. It is used for insomnia, nervousness. The infusion from the plant relieves swelling, headaches, relaxes muscles in case of convulsive manifestations.

Rhododendron infusion recipe: 2 g of dry crushed raw materials are poured into a thermos, poured with 1 glass of boiling water and insisted for 2 hours. The filtered drink is consumed 1 tablespoon 2-3 times a day.

Russian botanist I. Gmelin noted that a decoction of the leaves helps during the transitions in the mountains from fatigue and muscle pain. In patients with cardiovascular insufficiency, when taking a tincture from a plant, an increase in the blood flow rate is observed, and the work of the heart is normalized.

Rhododendron tincture recipe: fill 1/5 of the glass container with raw materials and fill to the top with alcohol or vodka. Insist for two weeks. Drink 10-15 drops, diluted with water (0.5 cups).

Indoor rhododendron has a shallow root system, so it is advisable to grow it in wide, shallow pots. Like all rhododendrons, it loves an acidic environment, a drained soil rich in humus and potassium. In the summer, the plant should be kept in a shady corner of the balcony without drafts, regularly sprinkling the leaves.